Kia Sedona (2005 and Earlier)

navyair · May 2006

BD old friend,

I just hit 59920 miles last week on my 2003 and had to take my car in for the 60k check up. A mere $1242 later I got the van back. (Ouch!) I don't have the invoice with me, but about $660 of that was the timing belt. Seemed ridiculous to me that they didn't have that priced in the 60k service...and the 60k service is mostly just fluids changed and "checks". Tensioner is best checked when they are changing belt out. I read somewhere (can't remember where) that changing that out about every other belt change (IE at 120k) is about right for most cars. 60k should be way too early to change it out...but then most American and Japanese cars get 100k between timing belt change outs.

This is a must do, though. Keeps your warantee intact, and if the belt breaks, it will destroy your motor. Unlike my Suburu which broke 2x and suffered no damage, this one is an impact system.

If I remember to check the bill, I will see if they did anything to the tensioner.

BTW, I got them to replace the alternator with the tips from KIATECH at the same time (under warantee). It was hard to start under certain load conditions, and they tested it as defective.

navyair · May 2006

Andy, Relax, everything is working normally.

When you use your remote to lock the doors, it arms the anti-theft system which is indicated by the short horn blast. If you unlock it manually, the system will activate, which blows the horn and kills the ignition. The remote deactivates it.

Bottom line: If you use the remote to lock it, use the remote to unlock it. If you lock it manually, you can use either the remote or manual unlock.

Enjoy your Sedona and welcome to the boards.

sockeye342 · May 2006

60,500 miles

lynergy · June 2006

I bought a 2004 Sedona Thursday but didn't take possesion until Friday. Now it's Sunday. I was told that it was just traded and the previous owners will bring the remote today. then tomorrow. Well, I think I get 72hours to return the car. Is this correct? (Alabama)And I think the dealer should order me a remote if the prev. owners don't bring over the remote. Did the 2004 come with a remote? Before I threaten to return the car tomorrow. If it did come with a remote, was there one or two? :confuse:

beyond_help · June 2006

two

lynergy · June 2006

Thanx. They weren't open today but tomorrow I'm gonna take them back their van unless they hand me two remotes. or get something in writing stateing when I will receive them. About the time in which I have to return the car; is my threat valid? Is it 72 hrs.?

grandtotal · June 2006

Unless Alabama is different I don't think you have any grace period in which to return the car you bought by law. It might be that the dealer you bought from will allow it or may allow you to exchange it for another car on their lot within a certain time period. I'm fairly sure the dealer will supply you with remote openers rather than have you return the car, unless they made it clear to you at the time when you bought that the car was being sold without remote openers.

marriedman · June 2006

I'm experiencing problems with the drive tran and didn't know if someone has had the same trouble. When the van shifts from first to second it will shift hard and make a loud cluck that is followed by the van lurching. The rest of the gears shift smoothly. I thought it was low of trans fluid but the lurching will go away after the van warms up.
I wouldn't be at all surprised it the transmission was starting to slip, but I know it wouldn't be covered by the warranty since I haven't changed the transmission fluid yet. The van only has 51K miles and I was going to wait and do it at 60K.
Has anyone experienced the same trouble? If so, what was the resolution?

Michael :sick:

lynergy · June 2006

They keep telling me the man who traded the car in is going to bring keyless remotes back to dealership. It's been a week.

smulvey · June 2006

i have these comments ( based on my 2002 with 75K on it)

1.) My owners manual says change the fluid every 15K miles to protect the warranty. ( I have been doing this. The fluid is $ 5 a quart and is unique to Kia and Mitsubishi.)

2.) My transmission shifts from 1-2 in a lurch in cool weather and when I am first starting out.

The transmission has a drain plug but it is a big mess.
You will need a under the bed storage tote from Kmart or Target to catch the oil.

You might be able to improve your shifting by converting to Synthetic Tranny Fluid.I am trying to see if the fluid called DEXRON III is equal to Diamond 3P fluid that Kia specifies.

marriedman · June 2006

Thanks for the reply, smulvey. I was reading the owners manual under maintenance section and see the changing of ATF. From reading that section looks like your only able to drain 2 quarts from system and 7 remains in converter since the capacity is 9 qt. Is 2 quarts about what your able to drain/replenish from transmission?

I also found information in the Technician Times regarding Sedona transaxle shift concerns. KT2005061412, pretty much instructs how to reset the PCM adaptive shift logic.

Thanks,
Michael

boxwrench · June 2006

MM
I've changed the fluid many times in my old Dodge CG by removing the return hose from the radiator trans cooler to the trans, and just pumping out the fluid by starting the car and runing it untill it just starts to dribble. Refill the fluid level and do it over again. After about 2 gallons, it starts to look bright red (Dextron). I've got 200K on this Tranny, and never been serviced yet. It's one way to remove all the fluid completely.

Boxwrench

navyair · June 2006

Sorry, haven't logged on in a long time. Dexron III isn't the same fluid as the Kia Diamond stuff. I think you might be OK using AMSOIL synthetic, but I'd check. It is a little pricey, but believe it is waranteed for 100k miles. I converted my daily driver to it awhile back.

We have a 2003 EX with 62K on it. Std problems like a/c and alternator, all fixed satisfactorily under warantee. I change my own oil/filter most times except when at the major service points.

theckeriii · June 2006

Hi,

I just purchased a 2003 Sedona myself and don't have the service manual. Could you send me the information about programming the keyless remotes? If I can avoid paying 40 at the dealership, that would be great.

Thanks.

mingram · June 2006

Hi. We recently purchased a 2004 Kia Sedona EX with the DVD entertainment system. We do not have the remote for it and before we spend $60 to buy a new one, does anyone know any alternatives for remotes? Can a universal remote be used on these, etc. Thanks so much. Meghan

bigboyball · July 2006

I bought my wife a Sedona in 2002, used. Since then the van has had an intermittent problem with stalling / bucking while being driven.
The car will just stall out or buck hard as if it wanted to stall but caught again.
I've been to the dealer a few times and each time there is nothing in the computer memory or any lights on the dash to indicate a clear cut problem.
Today I've had enough. I had my wife write down the mileage before she gave the service department the keys for the day.
At the end of the day same old story, we can't find anything wrong and cannot re-create the problem.
I call Kia customer service, not exactly the best people to deal with either and explain my concerns about the problem occurring while my wife and 4 year old son are driving along and the potential dangers.
To make an already long explanation a bit shorter, I finally had the service man, who by the way only drove the vehicle for 7 miles today, agree to keep the vehicle a week or until the problem could be documented on their diagnostic machines. Oh and I also told him that mileage would be checked each day just to make sure that they are actually doing something about the problem.
Well as you can expect they himmed and hawed a bit but agreed to do so.
Has anyone else experience this sort of problem with their 2002 Kia Sedona or other years.
Thanks for your time and patience.

sweetness69 · July 2006

My husband purchased this van for me on Feb. 13th as my V-day gift. When I picked it up at the dealership, it was as quiet as a church mouse. About 2 weeks later, it started making a god-aweful humming noise, sometimes sounds like it is coming from the front, sometimes it sounds like it is coming from the rear. Sometimes you can even feel a vibration on the floor from the loud humming. It goes away at about 65 miles and hour and is never on the same side of the vehicle. I have gone through 5 new GY Integrity tires and an alignment. I called the dealership, which by the way is 2 hours away, and they said that it sounded like an alignment problem. So, I got the alignment. It is still under warranty and I have an appointment at a different Kia dealership on Thusday and ANOTHER alignment tomorrow. The tires are wearing on the inside and outer rim of the tires, starting usually with the drivers side, front and rear tires. I do know a little about cars and can't seem to figure this one out. Iam not sure if it is a ball joint or wheel bearings. I am leaning away from wheel bearings because there is no grinding. I was hoping someone here could offer some advice as to what it might be. I have never had a car this new, with so few miles on it, nor a foreign made car, so all of this is foreign to me. HELP! I carry three kids with me daily and my hubby is a truck driver and is rarely home. So, I need some help. Thanks guys!

Sweetness69

:sick:

sockeye342 · July 2006

This Technician Times you speak of, where do I find it?

Thanks
Jeff

ne03sedona · July 2006

Hi y'all. Just thought I would let everyone know that I thought I was all set when the dealer replaced the front pipes of the rear coolant lines due to rust (see my MANY post on this). Wellll, guess again. I had another coolant leak in my driveway Saturday, took me a few min. to locate over the spare tire. You got it right, the damn metal coolant line. This time it is the one going over the reasonator, over the spare and up to the rear heater deck. I did the repair myself, as it was much easier than the front, rear lines, I will not return to the dealer for the same bad but new Kia piping. Now in doing this, I have literally had enough of this BS, so I inspected and found that the MIDDLE rear lines were very bad. Not rusted through though. So tonight I bought Kleanstrip Rust Converter and brushed and painted the middle line. I can post again to let you know if it works or not. As for the rear line, once I removed it, I was absolutely in awe of the damage and rust, almost every square inch, rusted through in 3 spots at the rear most 10mm bracket/screw. I have and will save this assembly, maybe for pricing etc. If anyone is interested to see the damage to a 3 year old (young) pipe, I can post a photo or 2. Too bad when the front lines went, I never inspected the rest, please do yourself a favor, it may save you a breakdown!

beyond_help · July 2006

if these tubes were made of the proper material they would fail in ten years or more
if kia were a decient company they would replace them at no cost, but as we know Kia is not a decient company, it is all about profit, profit, profit

smulvey · July 2006

Everyone thinks I am crazy , but my 2002 has 78K miles on it and I am my first set of Kumho tires that came pith the car. I run them at 40 PSI which is 4 pounds less than the maximum on the tire, which is 44 PSI.

I switch from summer to winter tires so I estimate I have 40 K on these Kumho. I have had no tire wear on the edges like you say. Mine are even all across.

your tires are most likely rated to 36 PSI , but your car door sticker recommends 28 PSI ( which is for smooth comfort. ) I would suggest running your tires at 32 PSI at least. Remember the Kia is a 4700 lb vehicle. It really should be on a truck tire since it gets loaded up like a truck much of the time with some families.

As far as the noise, that is very consistent with tire problems and tires that have a knob sticking out due to wear and alignment. You may need to have the alignment shop present out the report from the computer that tells what the wheels are set at and what the factory setting is . This is measured in Degrees Camber and Degrees caster. Maybe if you sound like you know something they will dig a little deeper and fix the issue.

I have had a number of Taurus cars that were actual built crooked by Ford and we had to go into a lot of trouble to get them aligned . It took several trips.

The car parts vendor for suspension , Moog , sells caster/ camber] adjusting " cams " for the technicians to add either 1 Degree or 2 degrees additional adjustment to the car. If they do not \ave these in stock when you get your car aligned they will do a crappy job and send you on your way.

I am sure you are very frustrated.

navyair · July 2006

When did they change to 28psi? My EX door plate is 35psi, but it has the Hankooks on it as well. Like you I run winter tires. We have around 62k on the van, and have had the winter tires for two years now. Probably 50k on the Hankooks. We will replace them at the end of the summer when the winter tires go on.

Only disadvantage to running higher pressure is that you will decrease your safety margin for heat build up in the summer. Also increases chance of hydroplaning, but difference between 35 and 40 prob won't be that much.

BTW, I'm very pleased with the Nokia all weather tires I run in the winter on the van. Like them so much that I replaced my commuter car tires with them.

monty2222 · July 2006

I have a 2005. Could be wheel bearings. There is a recall on them for water intrusion. Also mine have been replaced for noise. Of course I have also had my front axles replaced also for noise.

marriedman · July 2006

Jeff,

Go to www.kiatechinfo.com and register your email address (free). Once logging into the site your able to view all TSB's, campaigns, and shop manuals for the Kia cars.

Thanks,
Michael

endofmyrope · July 2006

our 2002 kia sedona ex (doesn't deserve capitals) has been doing the same thing for the last 2 1/2 years. We have even switched kia dealerships and no luck. they have had it in their shop for the last week with one of their guys driving it and of course the whole time it doesn't act up. They have "fixed it" so many times we just don't know what to do. we are past the warranty (108,000 km) but they have kept it under warranty. How nice of them.

vanphan · July 2006

I'm having a hard time finding Mitsubishi Diamond SP-111 transaxle fluid (as required in the manual) for my Sedona from anywhere but the Kia dealer. At 62k I need to service it again. At 30k it was serviced with Valvoline MaxLife ATF. I assumed VIOC knew what they were doing. I'm wondering now if I did the right thing. But I've had no transmission problems. The places I've contacted said they would do the work but would have to order the fluid from Kia. Does anyone know of an aftermarket ATF compatible with Mitsubishi Diamond SP-111?

vanphan · July 2006

The manual for my 02 Sedona calls for ethylene glycol-based coolant. I understand this is referred to as "green". I've seen other types referred to as "yellow" and "orange". Prestone Extended Life states it's for "all" transmisions, is green in color and has ethylene glycol as the main ingredient.

Does anyone know if Kia requires the original green only or if a hybrid like PEL will also perform as well?

dishnerm21 · August 2006

Has anyone found any maintenance manuals or anything that will help with changing the spark plugs. I have not been able to find anything.

smulvey · August 2006

Hey- be sure you do not put Antifreeze into your van's transmission.

The antifreeze goes into the RADIATOR system.

The Transmission gets the RED OIL.

The Radiator gets the GREEN fluid.

smulvey · August 2006

Hey - Spark Plug man!

Try this.
Remove the plastic engine cover.
Get some WD40 and clean up the three front plug wires.
Then lift them off and you will see the plug.

Don't get dirt down in there when you take the plugs out.

Put some never sieze on the threads of the new plugs. Just a tiny amount to wet them gently so they do not cross thread on installation.

You can do the front three plugs this way.

If you want to do the back ones buy an engine gasket set since you will need to remove the Intake manifold and replace the plugs and the put the manifold back in.

Check the Kia Tech website , they put the manuals online for customers at no charge.

These are aluminum cylinder heads. Use proper care when putting the plugs in.

They cost a bundle to repair.

bluedevils · August 2006

A few weeks ago our brakes finally started squealing. Local shop diagnosed rotors as okay and front pads needed replacement; rear pads okay.

Our van does a fairly even mix of city and highway driving. I consider 68,000 miles on a set of brake pads to be excellent. Not sure why some folks have had so many brake issues on their Sedonas and then people like us have such good experience, but hey - I'm not complaining.

sockeye342 · August 2006

Anybody have this one happening? After very hard braking, there is a strong gas smell from the rear of the van. We just had the 60K service done a few months ago, and I know they have to drop the tank to put in a new fuel filter...do you suppose there is a leak due to that?

It never did it before the service :confuse:

Thanks
Jeff

navyair · August 2006

BD, Good to see your post. We just hit a tad over 64k on our 2003 EX during a 10 day midwest jaunt. Since I spent a long time behind the wheel, got to shake it down pretty good. My rotors are starting to warp a bit, I think, but not so anyone but me noticed it. However, I suspect a brake job is in the future. 60+k on any brakes is excellent in my book. I will probably put ceramic pads on the front, and that will probably outlast the car.

Will have to replace the OEM Hankooks. I run snows on it in the winters for the past two years. Haven't decided whether to just go ahead and run the same brand on it in the summer or not. Had a flat on the trip (big staple) and managed to scratch the alloy wheel by not tightening the cage enough when I put the flat back up. It was over 100 and I was trying to get in the car to cool down.

For the other owners out there...check your spare to make sure the rubber isn't rubbing and the alloy sits in it snuggly.

ne03sedona · August 2006

Since I do all my own work, its about time for me to do the rear shoes. I did the front pads at about 25000 on my 03, just because. When I removed them, and replaced they still had about 1/2 left, but I felt better for doing it. The rear, I will assume is the same way, makes a few noises here and there. Even if they have 1/2 left, I want full shoes. The van is too heavy to not have 100% brake power.
Does anyone know if there is the same large philips bolt on the rear drum, as on the front rotor? Does anyone know where to by a large philips socket or such?
Also, I headed right for my NAPA store, they wanted $108.99 and I just verified for myself online for shoes. Advance only wants $75 for their top level shoes, one being Raybestos. If anyone can justify the NAPA set, I would certainly do it, but $30 more? Thanks alot for any advice!

averigejoe · August 2006

Remember, the shiny side goes up. Otherwise you can badly scratch your nice alloy wheel.

kiapanama · August 2006

I have a 2005 in Panama, and the noise after 10 months and 10 entrances to the workshop still remain, the dealer replace all brakes system when I am telling all is all new brake discs included, however after a litle time the noise appears again and including the rear brakes were blocked twice both thanks to god with the van stopped can you imagine that if occurs driving with my wife and my 2 little sons? let me know any thing else regarding this problem that you know because of I feel that my safety and the safety of my family is in problems now, also please recommend me any action that you suggest me. :sick:

sweetness69 · August 2006

I had the same problem and mine turned out to be a rear wheel bearing. I have a 2005 as well. This repair is covered under the warranty.
I had it fixed about a month ago. Have your dealership check it out.

sweetness69 · August 2006

I made a mistake previously when I posted the tire PSI. I was thinking about the other car we have. Mine is et at 44psi as recommended as per the manual. You have to excuse me. I tend to be brain dead sometimes and when I was having my problmes, I was so frustrated it wasn't even funny. But, afrter thinking it was a million different things, turned out it was the rear wheel bearing. Now, since I had it fixed, I haven't had a problem one.

udive2 · September 2006

I bought a 2003 KIA Sodona yesterday with 34000 miles and today the check engine light came on and the thing died it has NO Power at all. I'm upset as I think Bill Bryan Kia in Leesburg Florida put the shaft to me.. Any help is appricated.

Lynn Sullivan

craigmri · September 2006

Lynn,

I too live in central FLA and doubt Bill Bryan is trying to pull one over on you. If you just bought the car yesterday I'm certain they will take good care of you.

With that said I completely understand your frustration having just bought the thing yesterday with only 34,000 miles on it. Please report back with an update on the problem. If I'm not mistaken, even you as a second owner still get the remainder of the bumper to bumper warranty which is good to 50,000 Miles?? Can anyone confirm that?

Craig
'04 Sedona EX

sweetness69 · September 2006

Yes, that is correct and also, according to Kia, you are also entitled to a portion of the Powertrain warranty. I would call the dealership immediately. They should fix it at no cost to you. Also, some states cover used vehicles under a certain amount of mileage under the Lemon Law. If the dealership gives you problems, check into that as well.

jcrider2 · September 2006

I have a 2002 Sedona and had the fuel filter changed. I had a fuel smell for about a day as the Filter is located under the floor between the second row seats. You remove a panel under the carpet and this accesses the fuel pump and filter.
This is according to the service manual which I have. I have 72000 miles now and had to replace the Alternator about a month ago.

martince · September 2006

I have a 2002 Sodona. I purchased it New. The Front rotors are from the Kia Car lineup. These rotors can't handle the sodona's weight. The grinding sound is the brakes warping the rotors. Have the rotors cut and change your front pads. You'll see and feel a difference :shades:

martince · September 2006

I have a 2002 Kia sodona with 70K miles on it. I purchased this vehicle brand new and have always had Brake Problems. The rotors went out in the 2nd year. This vehicle goes through brake shoes like a baby through diapers. My problem now is that my Brake lamp and Battery lamp come on at the same time. I just put on some new pads today. Also while i am at idle, my lights DO NOT GO DIM, THE ENGINE DOES NOT HESITATE, or does the lamp stay on more than 5 minutes. I have even turned on everything in my van at idle and the lamp won't come on. Plus no headlamp dimming. But while driving BOth lamps come on. Kia says that their is no warranty on any of this. I went to kia in upper marboro, branch Avenue. I have an OBD II tester. I plugged it in and i get NO CODES. I even pumped the brakes and revved up to make the lamps come on and the OBD II still did'nt register any codes. I was thinking alternator, but i get no dim lights. Plus would'nt I get a code if their was a dip in voltage? Would KIA DEALERSHIPS Will not honor the warranty. Quick to sell and quicker to find loopholes to drop you and your vehicle into :mad: :mad: :lemon: :lemon: :mad:

ne03sedona · September 2006

Just had to perform another repair yesterday. The tensioner pulley bearings gave out. I had a chatter/metallic squeal for 3 days that I knew wasnt a belt. HOWEVER, once I got the belt off it was completely cracked on the ribbed side. Both items as far as I am concerned is unreasonable for a 3 year old with only 30K on her. $36 for the belt, $77 for the pulley and quite an easy 15 minute repair. The dealer was great, I paid for the parts (already had the old out to bring in with me) but the service manager near insisted I bring it in because the $77 pulley was definetly in warranty. The problem was they would need the van all day, our Kia dealer is ALWAYS like a mad house. Well I figure I would lose more than $77 for a day without a vehicle. I basically want the warranty for the BIG things, kind of like health insurance - I'll deal with the colds and pulled muscles, but be there for cancer or etc.
So not too bad for my first real cost repair, but still disappointing to a degree that is so soon.

alleyomp1 · September 2006

I just purchased the vechile on 1-28-06 I have now had it in the shop twice......the check engine light came on and it was because the cylinder #4 stopped working....and now I have a brake issue.....I need to get new brakes on the front drivers side (only) but I need to get the works done it on because there was no warning signal stating that the break has worn down.....so now I need new rotors and calipers and the brake....the rest of the brakes are fine which to me is another indication that there is a problem with the brakes not wearing properly is there anyone else with this problem........please help

dishnerm21 · September 2006

I had similar brake issues with my 2004. Rotors would warp every 10k miles or so. They kept turning the rotors but would not try to find the issue causing it(I live in a flat part of the country and don't ride the brakes). At 32k miles they tell me I needed brakes and rotors ($380). They kept telling me it was normal. I talked to Kia Corp and they must have lawyers maning the phones because you could not get anything from them. I replaced the rotors and brakes myself for under $100 for all and have put about 6k miles since then with no issues. Not sure why you would need to replace the Calipers unless they think there may be an issue with them. Service with Kia is terrible. I have bought my last one.

smulvey · September 2006

I have got 83K on my 2002 LX.
I do not have the ABS.
I think that is why I am happy with my brakes.

I do a lot of highwya driving and carry a large load of tools.

I installed just a set of front pads at 35K miles.

Now my pads are worn down and I am going to replace the
pads and the rotors.

My rotors have been good and do not pulsate.

I have alway had to replace my pads on front wheel
drive cars about 30K miles.

sometimes you can get to 35 K , but in our winter
climate I find the pads and rotors will fail very suddenly
after a certain point and then you have to buy both.

I find if I install the pads once they have a few years
on them, but before the rotors pulse, I get much more life on the rotors.

Pads are so much cheaper, it seems like a good plan
to get better rotor life.

My parking brake slips now so I am going to do all four brakes this month.

For a 4700 lb van ( I took mine to a truck scale this week while I was on the road and the loaded van was 5700 lbs)

I think83K miles on rotors and drums is pretty decent.

hoyahenry · September 2006

The brakes (calipers, drums, pads and rotors) don't know if there is an anti-lock module installed next to the upper engine compartment fuse box, or not. The presence of an ABS system is irrelevant until or when the pedal is smashed to the floor. Anyone with ABS will know, when it is used. Those without will have flat spots on their tires, if they ever have a stop situation that locks up the brakes, which is impossible with ABS.

It is possible that the heat of ABS braking when utilized causes the rotors to warp - no argument. As I have posted before, I swear by ABS and will accept that penalty to maintain control of the vehicle; that is what I learned to drive on 18 years ago.

Now for the next post.

hoyahenry · September 2006

My wife performed the NHTSA solo occupant front crash test today in our 02 Sedona. Unyielding left turner through stopped traffic showed up directly in front of her doing 35mph. The 96 Honda Accord is now shaped like a C ... the passenger side B pillar between the two doors took it directly. There was only the driver in the Honda, and he walked away despite all the glass that smashed - every window was gone (front back side, every single one.)

The Sedona plastic shell for the bumper came off, the windshield crackled but did not lose integrity and the lights are all smashed out of course, but that is all. What happened under the hoood is unknown, though the crumple zone between the bumper and the tires was crinkled. My wife walked away with a good scratch on her left arm - just behind her watchband - probably from the airbag.

Whether or not our '02 will live to see 40K miles and 5 years remains to be seen. That said, it did its job today when it counted, and quite well.

Kia Sedona (2005 and Earlier)

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