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I just hit 59920 miles last week on my 2003 and had to take my car in for the 60k check up. A mere $1242 later I got the van back. (Ouch!) I don't have the invoice with me, but about $660 of that was the timing belt. Seemed ridiculous to me that they didn't have that priced in the 60k service...and the 60k service is mostly just fluids changed and "checks". Tensioner is best checked when they are changing belt out. I read somewhere (can't remember where) that changing that out about every other belt change (IE at 120k) is about right for most cars. 60k should be way too early to change it out...but then most American and Japanese cars get 100k between timing belt change outs.
This is a must do, though. Keeps your warantee intact, and if the belt breaks, it will destroy your motor. Unlike my Suburu which broke 2x and suffered no damage, this one is an impact system.
If I remember to check the bill, I will see if they did anything to the tensioner.
BTW, I got them to replace the alternator with the tips from KIATECH at the same time (under warantee). It was hard to start under certain load conditions, and they tested it as defective.
When you use your remote to lock the doors, it arms the anti-theft system which is indicated by the short horn blast. If you unlock it manually, the system will activate, which blows the horn and kills the ignition. The remote deactivates it.
Bottom line: If you use the remote to lock it, use the remote to unlock it. If you lock it manually, you can use either the remote or manual unlock.
Enjoy your Sedona and welcome to the boards.
I wouldn't be at all surprised it the transmission was starting to slip, but I know it wouldn't be covered by the warranty since I haven't changed the transmission fluid yet. The van only has 51K miles and I was going to wait and do it at 60K.
Has anyone experienced the same trouble? If so, what was the resolution?
Michael :sick:
1.) My owners manual says change the fluid every 15K miles to protect the warranty. ( I have been doing this. The fluid is $ 5 a quart and is unique to Kia and Mitsubishi.)
2.) My transmission shifts from 1-2 in a lurch in cool weather and when I am first starting out.
The transmission has a drain plug but it is a big mess.
You will need a under the bed storage tote from Kmart or Target to catch the oil.
You might be able to improve your shifting by converting to Synthetic Tranny Fluid.I am trying to see if the fluid called DEXRON III is equal to Diamond 3P fluid that Kia specifies.
I also found information in the Technician Times regarding Sedona transaxle shift concerns. KT2005061412, pretty much instructs how to reset the PCM adaptive shift logic.
Thanks,
Michael
I've changed the fluid many times in my old Dodge CG by removing the return hose from the radiator trans cooler to the trans, and just pumping out the fluid by starting the car and runing it untill it just starts to dribble. Refill the fluid level and do it over again. After about 2 gallons, it starts to look bright red (Dextron). I've got 200K on this Tranny, and never been serviced yet. It's one way to remove all the fluid completely.
Boxwrench
We have a 2003 EX with 62K on it. Std problems like a/c and alternator, all fixed satisfactorily under warantee. I change my own oil/filter most times except when at the major service points.
I just purchased a 2003 Sedona myself and don't have the service manual. Could you send me the information about programming the keyless remotes? If I can avoid paying 40 at the dealership, that would be great.
Thanks.
The car will just stall out or buck hard as if it wanted to stall but caught again.
I've been to the dealer a few times and each time there is nothing in the computer memory or any lights on the dash to indicate a clear cut problem.
Today I've had enough. I had my wife write down the mileage before she gave the service department the keys for the day.
At the end of the day same old story, we can't find anything wrong and cannot re-create the problem.
I call Kia customer service, not exactly the best people to deal with either and explain my concerns about the problem occurring while my wife and 4 year old son are driving along and the potential dangers.
To make an already long explanation a bit shorter, I finally had the service man, who by the way only drove the vehicle for 7 miles today, agree to keep the vehicle a week or until the problem could be documented on their diagnostic machines. Oh and I also told him that mileage would be checked each day just to make sure that they are actually doing something about the problem.
Well as you can expect they himmed and hawed a bit but agreed to do so.
Has anyone else experience this sort of problem with their 2002 Kia Sedona or other years.
Thanks for your time and patience.
Sweetness69 :sick:
Thanks
Jeff
if kia were a decient company they would replace them at no cost, but as we know Kia is not a decient company, it is all about profit, profit, profit
I switch from summer to winter tires so I estimate I have 40 K on these Kumho. I have had no tire wear on the edges like you say. Mine are even all across.
your tires are most likely rated to 36 PSI , but your car door sticker recommends 28 PSI ( which is for smooth comfort. ) I would suggest running your tires at 32 PSI at least. Remember the Kia is a 4700 lb vehicle. It really should be on a truck tire since it gets loaded up like a truck much of the time with some families.
As far as the noise, that is very consistent with tire problems and tires that have a knob sticking out due to wear and alignment. You may need to have the alignment shop present out the report from the computer that tells what the wheels are set at and what the factory setting is . This is measured in Degrees Camber and Degrees caster. Maybe if you sound like you know something they will dig a little deeper and fix the issue.
I have had a number of Taurus cars that were actual built crooked by Ford and we had to go into a lot of trouble to get them aligned . It took several trips.
The car parts vendor for suspension , Moog , sells caster/ camber] adjusting " cams " for the technicians to add either 1 Degree or 2 degrees additional adjustment to the car. If they do not \ave these in stock when you get your car aligned they will do a crappy job and send you on your way.
I am sure you are very frustrated.
Only disadvantage to running higher pressure is that you will decrease your safety margin for heat build up in the summer. Also increases chance of hydroplaning, but difference between 35 and 40 prob won't be that much.
BTW, I'm very pleased with the Nokia all weather tires I run in the winter on the van. Like them so much that I replaced my commuter car tires with them.
Go to www.kiatechinfo.com and register your email address (free). Once logging into the site your able to view all TSB's, campaigns, and shop manuals for the Kia cars.
Thanks,
Michael
Does anyone know if Kia requires the original green only or if a hybrid like PEL will also perform as well?
The antifreeze goes into the RADIATOR system.
The Transmission gets the RED OIL.
The Radiator gets the GREEN fluid.
Try this.
Remove the plastic engine cover.
Get some WD40 and clean up the three front plug wires.
Then lift them off and you will see the plug.
Don't get dirt down in there when you take the plugs out.
Put some never sieze on the threads of the new plugs. Just a tiny amount to wet them gently so they do not cross thread on installation.
You can do the front three plugs this way.
If you want to do the back ones buy an engine gasket set since you will need to remove the Intake manifold and replace the plugs and the put the manifold back in.
Check the Kia Tech website , they put the manuals online for customers at no charge.
These are aluminum cylinder heads. Use proper care when putting the plugs in.
They cost a bundle to repair.
Our van does a fairly even mix of city and highway driving. I consider 68,000 miles on a set of brake pads to be excellent. Not sure why some folks have had so many brake issues on their Sedonas and then people like us have such good experience, but hey - I'm not complaining.
It never did it before the service :confuse:
Thanks
Jeff
Will have to replace the OEM Hankooks. I run snows on it in the winters for the past two years. Haven't decided whether to just go ahead and run the same brand on it in the summer or not. Had a flat on the trip (big staple) and managed to scratch the alloy wheel by not tightening the cage enough when I put the flat back up. It was over 100 and I was trying to get in the car to cool down.
For the other owners out there...check your spare to make sure the rubber isn't rubbing and the alloy sits in it snuggly.
Does anyone know if there is the same large philips bolt on the rear drum, as on the front rotor? Does anyone know where to by a large philips socket or such?
Also, I headed right for my NAPA store, they wanted $108.99 and I just verified for myself online for shoes. Advance only wants $75 for their top level shoes, one being Raybestos. If anyone can justify the NAPA set, I would certainly do it, but $30 more? Thanks alot for any advice!
I had it fixed about a month ago. Have your dealership check it out.
Lynn Sullivan
I too live in central FLA and doubt Bill Bryan is trying to pull one over on you. If you just bought the car yesterday I'm certain they will take good care of you.
With that said I completely understand your frustration having just bought the thing yesterday with only 34,000 miles on it. Please report back with an update on the problem. If I'm not mistaken, even you as a second owner still get the remainder of the bumper to bumper warranty which is good to 50,000 Miles?? Can anyone confirm that?
Craig
'04 Sedona EX
This is according to the service manual which I have. I have 72000 miles now and had to replace the Alternator about a month ago.
So not too bad for my first real cost repair, but still disappointing to a degree that is so soon.
I do not have the ABS.
I think that is why I am happy with my brakes.
I do a lot of highwya driving and carry a large load of tools.
I installed just a set of front pads at 35K miles.
Now my pads are worn down and I am going to replace the
pads and the rotors.
My rotors have been good and do not pulsate.
I have alway had to replace my pads on front wheel
drive cars about 30K miles.
sometimes you can get to 35 K , but in our winter
climate I find the pads and rotors will fail very suddenly
after a certain point and then you have to buy both.
I find if I install the pads once they have a few years
on them, but before the rotors pulse, I get much more life on the rotors.
Pads are so much cheaper, it seems like a good plan
to get better rotor life.
My parking brake slips now so I am going to do all four brakes this month.
For a 4700 lb van ( I took mine to a truck scale this week while I was on the road and the loaded van was 5700 lbs)
I think83K miles on rotors and drums is pretty decent.
It is possible that the heat of ABS braking when utilized causes the rotors to warp - no argument. As I have posted before, I swear by ABS and will accept that penalty to maintain control of the vehicle; that is what I learned to drive on 18 years ago.
Now for the next post.
The Sedona plastic shell for the bumper came off, the windshield crackled but did not lose integrity and the lights are all smashed out of course, but that is all. What happened under the hoood is unknown, though the crumple zone between the bumper and the tires was crinkled. My wife walked away with a good scratch on her left arm - just behind her watchband - probably from the airbag.
Whether or not our '02 will live to see 40K miles and 5 years remains to be seen. That said, it did its job today when it counted, and quite well.