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Classic Cars as daily drivers

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Comments

  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,676
    Rorr, try Hagerty Insurance (http://www.hagerty.com) I have my DeSoto and Catalina with them. As soon as I get my garage finished, I'll probably put my LeMans on with them as well.

    They're really cheap, partly because they only hit you ONCE for liability, no matter how many cars you own. Then, they only charge something like $6.00 per $1000 of agreed upon value.

    I'd have to dig up the bill to look at it, but I think the liability portion is only around $65 for the year. Then I have my DeSoto insured for $7,000, which would add $42 to the bill, and the Catalina for $8,000, which would add another $48. So, for like $155 a year, I have full coverage on both cars.

    I can't remember if they have a mileage limit or not. They've never asked me for a statement though, and I've been with 'em since around 1999. As for the agreed-upon value, you can always choose to up it if you feel your car has appreciated in value. And they're not really picky about how you drive your car, as long as you do have a daily driver with regular insurance. I think the thing you really have to worry about, if you have historic tags, is that if a cop happens to see you driving to work and passing the same spot every single day, he might get suspicious and pull you over. But that's more an issue with Johnny Law, and not the insurer.

    Oh, and even though I don't think my insurer has a problem with mileage, I don't think I've come anywhere near 2500 miles per year. I might have when I first got my '67 Catalina, and drove it all over the place. It was the first, and only convertible I've ever had. But lately I almost have to make an effort to put any real miles on it. In fact, I remember filling the gas tank around September 2004, and that lasted me until maybe July of '05! :surprise: I've had the car for 12 years as of late April, but have only put around 11,000 miles on it. I've had my DeSoto for about 15 1/2 years, and I doubt if I've put more than 4,000 miles on it. It's hard to tell though, because I've only had the odometer working for maybe 2 months out of that time. :blush:

    As for other old cars, well I've had my '79 NYer since October 2001, and have put maybe 6,000 miles on it. I've had my '76 LeMans since last April, and have put around 1200 miles on it, INCLUDING the 500 mile trip back from Ohio, where I bought it!

    Now I put around 85,000 miles on my '68 Dart over the years, but that thing was my daily driver from around April 1992 until May 1997, when I mainly started driving a '79 Newport. And in the interim, I had an '82 Cutlass that logged about 12,000 miles, which gave the Dart time to rest, and get stripped down and repainted.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,298
    i have a '91 mustang with under 31k miles on it. under 2500 a year isn't that bad. texas has warmer weather than new england. i don't even think about putting it back on the road until the sand is swept up. if i think it is going to rain, i don't drive it. did miscalculate a couple of times. once i hit my annual limit i put the cover on it and drop coverage. i don't try to stretch the calendar.
    i do get pangs of jealousy every spring when i see the other fair waether vehicles back out, but i don't compromise on the roads being clean.
    ok, my oldest has their permit, and we snuck it out around the block last weekend when mom wasn't home. :shades:
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I don't think they would insure a car that new.

    AGREED VALUE: Keep in mind that if you submit a value that is really too high for the car, the insurance company will ask you to have a professional appraisal...if they are uncomfortable with your assessment of your own car's value.....this is of course understandable, as they are not going to pay $50,000 for a 1975 Oldsmobile.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,676
    Explorer, don't you have to turn in your tags if you drop your insurance coverage? We do here in MD, otherwise they start slapping you with big fines. Seems like it would be a big hassle to turn in your tags and cancel the insurance in the winter and then go back and get new tags and reinstate the insurance come springtime.
  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    shifty - I'll check with the local Mustang club to see about having it appraised. I'll want to join it anyway and I'm sure the members would have some good info about insurance.

    explorerx4 - you ain't kiddin' about the weather. It's been gorgeous the last several days (I couldn't believe the number of convertibles I saw out and about last weekend; particularly around the lake). That was one reason I was concerned about the 2500 mile limitation.

    Of course, with the typical Texas summer (and no AC in the car), the prime driving times may be limited to just a few weeks a year...... :surprise:

    andre - that was good news about the cost w/ Hagerty. I had no idea it could be that reasonable.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    classic car insurance is a GREAT deal...if you qualify and stick to the rules...
  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    "...if you qualify and stick to the rules..."

    I'm guessing they won't cover 'incidents' while open-tracking the car..... :surprise:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    nope...you pay that bill!!
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,136
    I need to get that for the fintail. I did an online quote with a value of 5K, and they said $99. That's not bad. Right now I have it on a "storage policy" or something to that effect, and the people at the agency said I could just call them when I drive it (every 2-3 weeks) and they wouldn't charge me more. But I always forget.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,676
    I have my '76 LeMans and '79 NYer on my regular insurance policy, with liability-only. Last year each car added $400 to the policy. This time though, I'm in the 35-39 age bracket, so my rate went down to where each of those cars only adds $293 annually to the policy.

    But as soon as I add the LeMans to my antique policy, and, say, insure it for $4000 (I only paid $3K for it), then it would drop $293 off my regular policy, add $24 to the other, for a net savings $269.

    I thought about switching my NYer over as well, but I don't know if they'd take it. It used to be that anything 25 years and older was a shoo-in, but the 70's and 80's sure messed that up! :mad:
  • rorrrorr Member Posts: 3,630
    "...but the 70's and 80's sure messed that up!"

    LOL! Automotively, ain't that the truth.....
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,298
    i don't drop all the insurance. i keep fire/theft, drop liability. funny thing is, my insurance company screwed up and reported to motor vehicles that i DID drop all coverage. took a phone call to my agent and a letter from the insurance carrier and myself to get it straightened out. the agent said i was far from the first one to call.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,298
    someone told me i would have to get a fleet policy if i bought another(+1) car. :confuse:
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,676
    is "fleet" insurance? A few years back, there was a guy who lived behind my grandparents house who worked on old cars, always had a bunch of parts cars around, and had a few classics of his own. I remember the term "fleet" insurance coming up as to how he could afford it.

    Is it just another word for an insurance policy where one driver has a lot of cars on it? Essentially like what I have? Or is there something more to it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    sounds like geezer nonsense to me....

    Sure, if you have a collection of cars, the insurance company gives you a break sometimes...
  • bobbymcgee1980bobbymcgee1980 Member Posts: 11
    Discount for buying in bulk?
  • bencar1bencar1 Member Posts: 3
    My personal experience was, that trying to use a 'Classic Car' as a 'Daily Driver' sounds like fun, until you've done it. Between the idiots on the road, and the wear and tear, plus the difficulty you can sometimes encounter in getting a repair part when you need it a.s.a.p., it becomes more of a headache, than a lot of fun. I enjoy my cars more now, since I don't drive them every day, then when I tried doing that with my first classic car. :)image
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  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I would worry too much. If some idiot were to run into that 1960 Plymouth and wreck the grille and fromt fenders, they would be near impossible to find replacements.

    And, the shops don't want to work on old cars.
  • reallandyachtreallandyacht Member Posts: 28
    I just got a quote for FULL coverage on my 1970 Coup Deville convertible with up to $15,000.00 in repairs for UNDER $190.00 (USD) a year for this car!

    image
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Specialty car insurers are pretty cheap as long as you follow their restrictions on mileage and storage. Also, it can't be your only car registered in your name. You probably need an appraisal as well. And if you have an accident, it had better not be 500 miles from home while camping, as you are supposed to restrict your use to daily exercise and special events.
  • reallandyachtreallandyacht Member Posts: 28
    Maybe you are looking at the wrong place ....

    from what I understand - it does NOT matter with the ACTUAL quote I just got a couple weeks ago ...

    I can be anywhere with it .... why would they DEPRIVE you of the use of your classic?
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,676
    right now I think I pay about $178 a year for my '57 DeSoto, '67 Catalina, and '68 Dart combined. I forget what I had them set the value of each one at, but I think combined the three are insured for close to $20,000.

    As for use, here's what my company says on the subject...

    "vehicles that are used on an occasional basis -- e.g. club functions, exhibitions, organized meets, tours and limited pleasure driving."

    And then there's this little blurb...

    "Each licensed household driver needs to have a regular-use vehicle for daily driving and must maintain regular-use insurance in his or her own name."

    Also, if you have historic tags on your car, how you can use it is also going to be dictated by your local dept of motor vehicles. Many areas only allow you to drive in on holidays and weekends, to club functions, or necessary things like to the gas station, repair shop, etc. I think some areas do put on mileage restrictions as well, as do some insurers, but it'll vary by jurisdiction and insurer.

    For instance, in Maryland I don't think there's a mileage limit. At least, I've never had to record my mileage and give it to anybody. My insurer has never asked me to update my mileage either.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I don't know your policy but I think you should read it and see what they say. They aren't "depriving" you of use, they are charging you a very cheap rate in exchange for concessions you make to them. This type of insurance is not meant to be a substitute for normal car insurance. I feel certain there are some restrictions on your use.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,136
    I've been meaning to get classic insurance for the fintail, instead of calling in when I drive it (most of the time - sometimes I forget). Seems it would be easier. I forget who I got a quote from...one of the old time companies that advertises in Hemmings...but it was minimal in cost, something like $100/yr with agreed value of $5000.

    The historic tags thing is funny...my car has year of manufacture plates on it, which is an equivalent...yet I drove it this way as a normal driver for about 5 years, and never had a hassle. I think it's an unenforced law. I'd hope so, anyway....with all the carnage out there, an old car with old plates is the least important thing for the revenue collectors to worry about.
  • reallandyachtreallandyacht Member Posts: 28
    This is some of the FAQ on the Insurance site:

    Q. When is an appraisal required?

    A. We need justification for a vehicle's value if the agreed value requested is more than any of our current value sources. We also require value documentation for street rods and customs over $50,000. Please call our Auto Service Team at 800-???-???? or email the team at auto@??????.com for further clarification and assistance.

    __________________________________________

    Their policy features:


    Low Premiums. Our rates are drastically lower than standard. For example: The standard rate on a '65 Mustang could hit $800/year. ?????'s average premium on the same car? Just $110.

    Agreed Value Coverage. In case of a total loss, you will receive the full amount for which you have insured your vehicle.

    No Deductible. In most states you will pay nothing if you have a claim with your collector vehicle. We do however, require a deductible option for newer vehicles that are less than 20 years old.*

    One-Time Liability Fee. No matter how many vehicles you have on your policy, you only pay a single liability charge.*

    Flexible Usage. Drivers can enjoy their classics with comfortable limits. Our policy allows for an occasional leisure drive, not just to parades or car events.

    In-House Claims Department. We want your claim handled by a collector insurance expert, so most claims are managed at ?????. We're here for you, even seven days a week during the busiest hobby months, April-October.

    Repair Shop of YOUR Choice. Your choice, not ours. Take your collector cars to your favorite repair shop.

    Restoration Coverage. You can protect your classic and its increasing value during an active restoration project.

    Instant New Purchase Coverage. Unplanned purchases up to $50,000 receive immediate coverage on an existing ????? policy.*

    Business-Use Endorsement. Collectors may use their cars for specific business or commercial uses for specified time frames.*

    Auto Show Medical Reimbursement. Clients or family members injured during an auto show or similar car-related function will receive pre-determined medical coverage.*

    Overseas Shipping/Foreign Touring Coverage. ????? can provide special coverage of your vehicle(s) during overseas transit including cargo shipping, foreign liability and property damage. We also can coordinate coverage during your stay.

    Club Liability Program. Protect your club and its members from potential lawsuits while enjoying the same great service and low rates enjoyed by all ????? clients.**

    Motorcycle Safety Equipment Coverage. This feature includes coverage of safety apparel, including leather pants, gloves, jacket and a helmet.*

    ????? Collector Network Membership. You'll have the opportunity to join the nation's largest community of collector car enthusiasts.

    * Available in most U.S. states.

    .... but I did notice that this company DOES require that it is garaged :mad:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    and that part about "occasional" leisure usage...you have to be careful about that. That's where you can stumble and fall if they catch you in some unauthorized use...like 1,000 miles away at a campsite or something, or if you rack up lots of miles in a year.

    Which company is this?
  • reallandyachtreallandyacht Member Posts: 28
    I was told the limitation was something like average of 3,000 miles a year distance doesn't matter a lot. So; if you drove it 3200 miles it wouldn't matter much.

    The insurance agent said that the company wasn't even real nit picky about that.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah well the insurance agent isn't the one settling your claim...he's the one getting a commission for selling you a policy. Keep that in mind.
  • dixieslicksdixieslicks Member Posts: 1
    I drive a 1974 Dodge Coronet with a stock 318, and an automatic tranny.
    I get 7.5 mpg city mileage (mostly because I have the pedal to the floor).
    I should think that I would get better highway mileage, but I don't know.
    It always starts, even in the severe cold. I've only had to replace one thing: the starter.
    It burned out or something, but there's nothing mechanically wrong with it, it probably needs a rebuild for the carb, but it's all good.

    I plan on putting some headers, manifold, dual exhaust, a thermoquad (or another 4-bbl if I can't get a hold of one of those), some wider tires, and maybe some little hubcaps.
    Probably won't improve my gas mileage, but that's overrated as far as I am concerned.
  • kens67coupekens67coupe Member Posts: 3
    yeah,but those kits can& will last a LOng time.i put one in a dist on my 1967 stang. Very reliable,never had a starting
    problem with her,matter of fact,i just picked up a 390/fmx for her from a 67 Galaxie,and i'll be doing the same conversion.Pertronix makes a really good conversion kit
  • kens67coupekens67coupe Member Posts: 3
    I don't care.I own a 67 mustang& had one accident in it,the lady ran a red light.......did some serious damage,but i walked away. There's NOTHING wrong with driving a older car.Ypu can get just as messed up in a newer,safty brimming car.I still have the old girl, i'm getting ready to put a 390/fmx into her.i'd drive it ANYWHERE/ANYTIME.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,676
    I've had three 318's over the years. Well, one of them, a 1968 Dart, might be a 273, I dunno. Doing the VIN decode, it originally came with a 273, but the guy who had it before me said it had a rebuilt engine, and said it was a 318. But heck, he might not have known either!

    Anyway, that Dart usually got around 12-14 around town, and the best I was ever able to eke out on the highway was about 17.8. And the only reason it was that good was because I was going through a really desolate stretch of Arkansas, and hit a spot where it was really far between gas stations, so I nursed it along as gently as I could for maybe the last 50-60 miles.

    The next was a 1979 Newport with a 318-2bbl. It had a Lean burn carb and about 230,000 miles on it. I found out that if I advanced the spark enough, it would get about 13 around town, but required premium. Cutting it back to where it would run okay on 87 would drop the mileage down to around 11, and with gas prices at the time, it seemed a draw either way. That sucker would get around 22 on the highway, though. It wasn't so hot, say, from 0-60, but it was a great highway cruiser.

    The final 318 was a 1989 Gran Fury ex-police cruiser with a 318-4bbl. Around town was pretty bad, usually 10-13, and it needed premium fuel. On the highway though, I was shocked to see that it could get around 21-22. Not bad at all for a car that was EPA-rated 13 city, 15 highway! Considering the 4-bbl and the quicker gearing (2.94:1, versus 2.45:1 for the Newport and 2.76 for the Dart), I'm really impressed that it could break 20 on the highway.

    Oh, if you're doing headers, but mostly local stop and go driving, I think that might actually hurt your mileage a bit. I think with headers it takes the car longer to warm up, so on cold days it might get crankier as well. Also, a 4-bbl model would most likely have a different cam in it to take advantage of the greater fuel/air flow allowed by the larger carb, so you might want to change the cam too, or else you might just end up with the fuel economy of a 4-bbl but the performance of a 2-bbl every time you punch it.
  • justaveragejoejustaveragejoe Member Posts: 268
    This is my '68 GMC truck that my dad bought new. I've put some miles on it.

    imagehref="http://www.carspace.com/csPhotos">See more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com

    Check out the story about it:

    http://www.sacbee.com/130/story/152695.html

    :)
  • bumpybumpy Member Posts: 4,425
    "Registration required" :mad:

    What engine does it have? GMCs that year had a choice of the 250 or 292 I6; 305 or 351 V6; or 283, 327, or 396 V8.
  • justaveragejoejustaveragejoe Member Posts: 268
    Sorry about that, didn't know when I posted the link since I am registered there. It actually has a 307 ci V-8 and the three-on-the-tree transmission. 297,000 miles, most of them mine, the remainder from the rest of the family.

    image

    A "Carspace" logo, over a scan of a newspaper article, with my original picture...no copyright lawsuits please
  • bumpybumpy Member Posts: 4,425
    Right, I forgot that the 307 replaced the 283 in 1968. Nice truck, and nice to see it still gets around.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,676
    is one sweet truck. I really like that body style. Hey, were they using all-steel beds by that time, or were the floors still made out of wood?

    When my '85 Silverado has breathed its last, I've thought about trying to replace it with a classic pickup, and I always did like that '68-72 style of GMC. Only problem is, my truck has sentimental value, as my Granddad bought it brand-new. I have a hard time parting with cars. :shades:
  • justaveragejoejustaveragejoe Member Posts: 268
    Like Jay Leno said, "If you want to be a car collector then don't ever sell one" Keep the '85 and then get a project truck. Parts are still available.

    Yes, steel bed in this one.
  • bumpybumpy Member Posts: 4,425
    Wood was the standard bed, but steel was an option. Wood beds are fairly common on the 1967-68s, but just about everyone ordered the steel bed by 1972.
  • deniseal0902deniseal0902 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Everyone...I was online searching for info on using classic cars as daily drivers and found this message board. I would appreciate if I can get some answers on my concerns.

    So my husband decided he wants to get a classic car and use it for his commuting...he drives about 50 miles at least 5x per week. He was looking at a 64 malibu or chevelle?? The thing I'm concerned about is safety! We do have an infant and if we need to put a car seat in there, would it be safe enough? And would it be safe enough to use as a daily driver...also since he's going to be putting on massive mileage...would the car actually depreciate in value?

    Any input would be helpful!
    Thanks!!!
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,704
    The folks I see using these for daily drivers have short commutes. '64 is old, no safety devices (maybe lap belts), weak drum brakes, no air bags, I wouldn't put a car seat in it. Overall bad idea. No way he can have one for weekends?
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,676
    I wouldn't consider a '64 Chevelle to be a particularly dangerous car, but it's nowhere near as safe as what's out there today. They only had lap belts, no shoulder belts. And I think belts for the back seat were still optional. I don't know anything about infant seats, but don't you need seatbelts for the car seat to anchor to?

    If he gets a 2-door hardtop or 2-door sedan, which are more valuable than the 4-door, getting a car seat into the back could be a bit of a challenge, anyway.

    Also, these cars just had single master cylinders, seats without headrests, very little useful padding on the dashboards, and steering columns that did not collapse.

    I'd suggest something a little later, like 1968. By that time, they had collapsible steering columns, shoulder belts up front, dual master cylinders, and interiors that were much more impact-friendly in a crash.

    I guess if he has his heart set on a '64 though, some of the stuff like a dual master cylinder and shoulder belts could be retrofitted?

    Putting 250 miles per week on the car is definitely going to hurt its value, unless he buys a high-mileage car to begin with, and then he's going to run into reliability issues. And being a 40+ year old car, it WILL break down on occasion, no matter how well it's been taken care of! How mechanically inclined is your husband?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    A car like this could be reliable enough if it was in good shape to begin with, but I agree with those posters who would retrofit a dual master cylinder and better seat belts.

    As for putting on miles--only if it was a very low miles original car, would this matter. These odometers turn back to zero anyway at 99,000, so people rarely know what the real mileage is on 50 year old cars anyway. Not an issue IMO unless it is documented low mileage, and VERY low mileage at that.

    As for safety, no car is safe, but a back seat is a lot safer than a front one. Most of us alive here right now grew up without car seats and air bags.

    So yeah, go for it if you can do the retrofits and if he drives sensibly. Even front disk brake conversion would be a good idea (if the car has power brakes already).

    Also gas mileage is gonna hurt if gas goes back up to $4 gal.
  • lokkilokki Member Posts: 1,200
    I think that besides the upgrades to the brakes and the belts - if he's really going to do any serious commuting in it, he'd be well served to dump a little money in it up front before he goes road warrioring in it.

    Repairs that are done up front on a scheduled basis are cheaper and a lot (read LOT) less hassle in the long run. When it comes to car maintenance, my whole goal in life is to try to do things on MY schedule. I hate surprises.

    I'm thinking core the radiator, change the water pump and do all the belts and hoses. Perhaps do the ball joints and redo the brakes while the car is down. A new battery is just about mandatory.

    The idea is to cover all the common stuff that might drop the car off the road unexpectedly and fix em before they happen.

    There's nothing worse than being 48 miles from home after work on a Monday evening and blowing a radiator hose. WalMart just doesn't stock radiator hoses for a 64 Chevy any more so there's no quick easy fix. So you get a roll of duct tape and a couple gallon jugs of water. Now you have to limp home AND THEN you have to figure out how to get to work on time Tuesday morning.

    This kind of thing isn't about having 1964 - it would be true with any car older than about 1995 if you're looking at 250 miles a week.

    You two will spend a lot more happy family time together if you do it this way.
    He'll still be out in the garage, but it won't be at midnight on a Wednesday and you won't be shouting at each other ;)

    You don't need to ask me how I learned these things, but I have vivid memories of being in my apartment parking lot at sundown with the hood open, tools scattered everywhere, and my beloved asking "Aren't you done YET?"
  • bumpybumpy Member Posts: 4,425
    is to have a full-blowm mechanical restoration done if he wants to drive it 50 miles every day (assuming that hasn't been done already). It doesn't have to be pretty, but all the suspension bits and bearings should be renewed, upgrade the brakes to front discs and dual MC, refresh the rear axle and transmission, carefully look over all the wiring plus the starter and alternator, clean out the gas tank, check over the carburetor and all the linkages, and make sure the metal and rubber fuel and brake lines are good.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Safety is a relative value. It wouldn't be any safer today than it was when it was new.

    Reliability is also a relative value, but IMO more important when driving 50 miles round trip to work.

    Economy is relative, but considering where the price of fuel is going, perhaps a much younger economy car should previal. The money saved in running the ecocar could be applied to purchasing "the toy" further down the line.

    He will always be able to buy a used car, but will never get another chance to spend time with his real baby. The little one needs his attention now a lot more than the old car at the curb.
  • astphardastphard Member Posts: 24
    In thinking about a classic car for a daily driver, which of these would be requirements and which are just nice to have? Are there any other things that I haven't thought of that would be necessary for a daily driver?

    Rear seatbelts
    Front lap belts
    Front shoulder seatbelts
    Rear shoulder seatbelts
    Fuel injection
    power steering
    power brakes
    disc brakes
    ABS
    front driver airbag
    passenger frontal airbag
    side airbags
    Going 0-60 in 15 seconds or less
    Rear windshield defogger
  • garv214garv214 Member Posts: 162
    Well, if you really want ABS and airbags, your classic car will be at most an early-mid 1990's vintage.

    It would be helpful if you further defined what your typical "daily driving" consists of. Also, what cars/era catches your fancy? Are you mechanically-handy or a checkbook mechanic (like me... =) ).

    You might look into a nice 94-96 C4 corvette (unless you need a back seat). They are quite the bang-for-the-buck car, and you can find many low mileage examples...

    :shades:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd say for daily driving on mixed city streets and modern freeways, you'd want the following for SURE:

    Front lap belts --must have

    rear seat belts -- not really--the front passengers become the air bags for the rear passengers...

    Front shoulder seatbelts -- nice to have if possible--hard to retrofit.

    Fuel injection -- if you are driving climate extremes of heat and cold, FI is nice to have. Fuel injection is "smart", carburetors are "stupid".

    power steering -- not for a 2- seater, but it's hell without it on a 50s or 60s full size car.

    power brakes -- depends on the car really.

    disc brakes -- if they can be retrofitted as "bolt-on kits", I'd do it. Why? Because modern cars stop too quickly for old creaky classics to be following them.

    ABS --NAH

    front driver airbag -- if you have lap and shoulder belts, this is optional. Besides, on cars more than 15 years old, who knows if the airbag will even work anymore?

    passenger frontal airbag -- ask your passenger.

    side airbags -- NAH

    Going 0-60 in 15 seconds or less -- 15 seconds would be about my tolerance level. Why? Because on modern freeway, if you can't get out of the right lane to avoid a blockage, you might end up stuck there for a long time in a slow car.

    Rear windshield defogger --NAH--they don't work very well anyway unless there's frost or snow on them.
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,704
    For me the absolute requirement is lap and shoulder belts, followed by good brakes, which probably means disc brakes, which means power brakes. I'd want 0-60 under 15 sec more because I wouldn't be interested in a slower car.
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