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Comments
Does this price include Tax, Documentation, Reg fee ?
Thanks
Happy New Year
We have owned bmws, mercedes. My wife is not very excited about this, but have to face facts that we are middle aged and must carpool four kids. I hope she adjusts. I think the Odyssey is a great vehicle and after comparing to the MB R class, the Acadia and Enclave, I just could not get over the difference in comfort and passenger space between them.
2008 EX-L with dealer installed Bluetooth option.
4.9% for 60months 100% financed, nothing out of pocket.
Car Price 31,100
Total Price $34,500
Includes everything, NY 8.6% sales tax , NY title and plates and dealer prep.
I can't speak specifically to Honda, but I have never had a problem having warranty work done at a dealer different than the one I purchased from. This applies to Ford, BMW, GMC, Chrysler. (I've owned other marques, as well, but had those serviced at the dealer I purchased from.)
The service and parts departments don't really care where you purchased the car. As a rule, any dealer should be willing to do warranty work--they get reimbursed by the OEM for warranty work whether they sold you the car or not. I would bet $ that Honda works the same way.
Some dealers will give you some benefits if you have your car serviced at the dealer that you purchased from (e.g., free loaner car while your car is in the shop, small--10%--discount on service, first oil change free, etc.) but it's minor stuff. Bottom line: buy the car at the dealer offering the best deal--you can have it serviced (warranty or non-warranty) anywhere.
-- Berkut
2008 EX-L with dealer installed Bluetooth option.
4.9% for 60months 100% financed, nothing out of pocket.
Car Price 31,500
Total Price $34,500
Includes everything, NY 8.6% sales tax , NY title and plates and dealer prep.
Honda is/was also running a "rebate" on the extended warranty of $500 (instant), plus the dealer added another $500 in for us out of their end. Have 5 year 60k bumper to bumper for another $1,500
Good luck. We traded an 06 MDX for our minivan and while it's not as stylish, has all the same features -- including a few extras the Acura didn't have. And it's 100x more practical for kids. Bluetooth system is excellent and very easy to use.
If not O'Fallon, any experiences in the St Louis, MO area?
Thanks for the replies.
Opinions?
Thanks
I'm hoping $26000 before tax - Would this be doable?
Thanks!
I got following quotes from Autopark Cary for EX-L with RES and NAV.
Price Tax Doc Reg Total
32754 982.62 398 74 34208.62
Did you try to get quotes for EX-L with RES & Nav?
Your EX quotes looks good. Who is the dealer?
Thanks
When I pressed him with a more competitive quote from another dealer, he gave me $25.7K base price today quoting a special price promotion. I'm wondering whether there is $1000 rebate special going on.
However. I'm looking forward to 0% financing as last January.
tbrasse1 - It would be awesome if I can get EXL for $27K
$22522 OTD
Vehicle Price-$37,474.52
Delivery Fee (standard) $495.00
Sales Tax (NW Fla)-$2323.48
Tag,Title & Reg -$202.00
Grand Total- $40,000.00 Out The Door
Accessories that came with it- Mudflaps, Wheel Locks (2 sets!?) and Cargo Tray
Anyone care to know where?
I would highly recommend buying via the internet with Ourisman Honda to anyone who is interested in having a great car buying experience.
Here's the method I suggest. Modifed to NumerounoLatino's suggestion on #12 because it's a good one.
Follow this and you should get floor in your market.
1. Go to Honda.com website and click on "find dealer" (DON'T use the request quote button).
2. At that point, select "request a quote" next to each dealer after you have list of dealers.
3. Fill out your info. don't put a phone number down, you call them if you want...they don't call you.
Ask for the following:
- Obviously request model your looking for in dropdown.
- In "comments" section put something to the effect:
Would like an OTD (out the door) quotation on EXL RES. Please itemize charges: Base Price, destination and document fee; only extras should be tax, title license. I understand that Honda is offering the special APR financing or the $2500 dealer incentive. I would like your best price including the $2500 incentive. Additionally, please include the color selection that you have available. I'm checking with several dealers in the area and will be purchasing shortly, so your promptness and bottom line is appreciated.
Don't give them your phone number. You call them when you want so that you can think in advance of what your going to say. You don't need anyone calling you.
- Press Send
4. Go Back to "find dealer" enter your zip and you'll get the same list. select "request quote" by the next dealer and this same form that you initially entered will be available. just press send.
5. Repeat to at least 8 dealers in your area. If your in a metro area. I'd send to everyone EVEN the closest.
5 1/2. Go to your credit union, capitalone.com or whomever your comfortable with and get your own financing. You should have a check in your back pocket when you go to buy the car or their going to bend you over. The big players will overnight you a blank check. If your a costco member, check out costco dot com and get the capital one rate there. You should get 5.9 apr for 60 months, which you will use as your fallback.
6. Sit back..you're in the drivers seat.
7. Wait for quotes to come in.
8. You'll find out who's serious.
- some will give you HIGH price
- some won't respond so go to their website and request a quote with same info as above (I found Honda has some deadlinks on their website to dealers) On the day before I was ready to buy, I called the nonresponders and was able to get them in the mix.
- a few will give you a pretty aggressive price
- you may end up with a clear cut low ball great price
9. Forget about the morons that ask you to call them for an appointment (The VIP treatment means getting bent over). On the ones that are really high, if you want reply and tell them they are off by whatever the diff is between them and your lowest price. i.e, "you're off by $2600, if that's your best shot, I'll pass thanks".
10. Let the few that are low sit a few days and then reply back. Note that you appreciate their offer. That you have a few others that are right there and that you'd like to buy from them. Your making the decision in the next 48-72 hours. (If you can time this for the end of the month, I think that will work in your favor.) Is this your best price? (If you want any accessories, nows the time to ask for them). Alternatively, you can name a price to see if they can get there, personal choice really here. I don't think you have anything to lose by seeing how hard you can push. If they won't hit the lowball price, then ask how low they can go and say you may come back if the lowball dealer doesn't come through. Here's why, my lowball dealer was writing a quote that said on an 08, but only when I called and said I'll be over this afternoon with a check for this amount for an 08 and he affirmed but then called back in 10 minutes to say he meant 07. Make sure again to qualify that Destination should be included and that there should be no dealer extras on the car (ask them to confirm this). Get an itemized out the door price. Base+Desination+Doc, + tax + title + license. Make sure that the documentation/processing fee does not exceed $100. In some states the most they can charge is $59.
11. Wait for your responses. Hopefully you should have a pretty good price (better than you have from your other guy).
12. Now that you've got quotes from everyone else and have done some negotiating, request an internet quote from your local dealer. See what they offer. THEN AFTER you get quote from them, if it doesn't beat the best off you've got, email them best offer and ask them if they'll beat it. If they match or beat and have your color choice go buy from them.
13. If not, go back to the person with best quote and requalify the details? "You have this color in stock and this price includes destination? Only Extra's are Tax, Title License? They reply in writing with a "yes", then call them to once again firm these detials and make an appointment to meet them and drive (and hopefully buy) the car.
13.5 When you show up prepare for the bait 'n switch or worse but STICK TO YOUR GUNS. HAVE YOUR EMAIL CORRESPONDENCE WITH YOU. I did all of the above plus called on my drive to the dealer and confirmed everything was still true; only to be told that they had only one van and it wasn't the color we had discussed. In addition, it had accessories on it that I did not want. As a result, I threatened to leave (coat on and stood up) and suddenly a van showed up that was what we wanted. Drive the EXACT VAN you are buying. Make sure it's the year you want and check the odometer. Make sure you like it, no rattles, etc. Inspect it for scratches, etc. Should be fine, but make sure. You've come this far, don't overlook final details. (After we had agreed to a deal, I got the "it's the salesman's/manager's fault" from the manager/salesman when the other wasn't around.)
14. Show up with your own financing as noted previously. When you pull the check from your pocket, their going to ask where/what your rate is. If you have good credit tell them you have 5.5% for 60 months. If they ask to see paperwork details on the check, make sure the ONLY thing you show them is the dealer details DO NOT SHOW THEM THE INTEREST RATE...DONT EVEN bring those details with you. It is NONE of their business. If you have good credit (780+, odds are they'll beat the 5.5% and you'll save even more money. Show up without a blank check and try to get 5.4% or lower and odds are it'll never happen.
14.5 You have a trade-in? Research your price on kbbdotcom and edmunds dot com. If its and older car with high mileage don't expect to much, sell it on craigslist, someone at work, or expect to take your $1500 at the dealer to be done. If you have a car thats actually worth something, ag
I got this deal from a Richmond, VA dealer any thoughts, suggstions.....
Selling Price: $37,649 + Tax $1129.47 + DMV stuff $110.00 + Processing Fee $299.00 = Out the Door price $39,187.47 which $1703 more than the invoice.
Yours,
Murmal.
Two years ago I bought a CRV using a technique much like donkeypunch1 describes. I got it for invoice when many dealers said that was not possible. I just happened to find a dealer who needed to move units more than he needed to make a profit on the unit moved. Similarly, last week I bought an 2008 Odyssey EX-L using the same method. I think I got a very reasonable deal at $211 under invoice.
I started by going to the Honda site to find all the dealers within 400 miles of me. Since my family was going to Austin anyway to visit relatives, any dealerships in the Dallas area, Austin area, San Antonio area or anywhere in between Lubbock (which is in West Texas) and Austin (central Texas) would work.
I made a list of 23 dealers. I then had to call each one to get an email address of a specific internet manager or salesperson (different dealers work it differently). Unlike 2 years ago, when I could pull that info off the Honda site, I had to call this time. Most dealerships want you to negotiate with them over the internet like you would if you were sitting across from them in a room. That's not the best way to get a deal, IMHO.
Once I had the email address of 23 different sales reps on December 27th, I sent them an email. In the email I said that I wanted to buy a 2008 Odyssey Ex-L in any color except white, silver or black and with no dealer add ons. I would pay invoice plus dest. I said I would only consider contracts faxed to me with all the numbers showing the OTD price and faxed before 5 pm the next day (the 28th). Most importantly, the contracts had to be signed by either the gsm or someone else with authority to bind the dealership. I would not consider email offers. I would not consider unsigned contracts (which many dealerships call "buyer purchase orders").
I received seven faxed contracts, one of which came in $200 below invoice, three of which came in at invoice, and three of which came in above invoice. Only one was unsigned and only one did not specify the car being sold. Both corrected when I called them. I also had about 10 emails from other dealers who wanted to come to an agreement via email and then "finalize" in the showroom. One of them had an "internet special" price that was very, very misleading. It quoted the invoice PLUS dest. price for the EX-L and then in big, big numbers quoted a price $300 below that. But then there was an asterix and buried waaaaaaay down later in the email was the disclosure that the big numbers did NOT include various additional charges....including dest. charge! It is for THAT reason that I demanded, and received, a faxed signed contract (buyer purchase order).
So basically I made 23 dealerships compete with each other directly for my business. When I contacted the dealer with the lowest offer, the salesman said that the car he had put into the contract had been sold off the lot. Well THAT raised my suspicions!! But then he said that he have five other "units" and invited me to pick any one off the internet inventory and he would redo the contract for that vehicle. Once I put a deposit down (on the credit card) he would hold the vehicle for pick up. So that made me feel better. It was not a bait-and-switch deal.
I put $5k on the credit card (it's a 2% rebate card) and I ended up financing the remainder with the 2.9% three-year incentive financing. I earn 5.12% in my checking account here in Lubbock (we have a VERY competative banking market) and so I just dumped the money that I would have paid the dealer into that account and will end up with a smaller discount.
So my bottom line was $29,590 for the EX-L, including destination charge. Texas imposes a $1,849.38 sales tax and other charges for TTL came to $241.47. Thus the OTD was $31,580.85.
Now that may be better or worse than the price you can get. But the test of a good deal is not whether you match the price someone got on this board. There is no abstract "best deal." The test of a good deal is whether you can force dealers to compete for your business. If you do so, you will be confident that you got the best price available at the time and in the place you were seeking to buy.
This is my first post. I'm in the market to buy a new 2008 Honda Odyssey EX-L. This will also be my first New car so don't know how to approach. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'm in Atlanta, GA.
I called a few dealership in and around Atlanta and all of them were around $30,000 + Taxes, Tag and Title + Dealership fees. And that came to around $32,000 but I've seen posts here with far less money. Am I missing something? Are there any dealers here who have lower deals? Also, if I need financing (I can put some money down) do I go with dealer financing or credit union? Thank you all!
I'm starting to do research on prices for 08 Odyssey ESL RES. Anyone get a great deal in NC in which they are willing to share the details?
Thx.
Hope this is helpful.
Murmal.
Yes, I partially used the donkeypunch1's method. He is one of the users of this forum. Check his method in response 17964, in this thread.
I bought my earlier van in 03 from Vannyork, the gave a nice deal that time but not this time. Try to send a request for a quote from Auto Park Cary, who has quoted me a nice out the door price for 08-Touring without PAX, which is 3K less than the Invoice. I didn't check my email in the monring otherwise I would have finalized it today itself.
Happy shopping.
Yours,
Murmal.
Good luck.
I just now sent them a quote request for Touring. Will keep my fingers crossed until I hear from them.
Yours,
Murmal.
Good luck to everyone. I am enjoying my Touring and with a new kid on the way the space is much needed.
So the source I used is apparently different than some other folks on this forum so different offers. Toyota which is a back up option is going 0% finance option in lieu of cash back - so Honda appears pretty competitive.