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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • corcor Member Posts: 27
    Other than my rotors, I've been kind of happy w/my '04 GC. I've used my 4wd during the winter in OH and had no problems what so ever....... I would recommend getting the extended warranty through Daimler-Chrysler. I purchased the maximum care for like an addt'l 1500.xx but it covers well past my lease.
  • 19951995 Member Posts: 2
    Hello, i have a 99 grand 4.7 quadradrive,it seems to vibrate or shutter when turning slowly in parking lots, weird i hade new tie rods put in and alinement they say its all good. any body have any input, HELP. lol.
  • mljjj5amljjj5a Member Posts: 2
    My 99 JGC (80,000 miles) has run very well for me except for one problem that no one has been able to correct. After a long highway drive of over 6 hours the engine will over speed about 300 rpm and then come right back down to normal engine speed for the speed I am going at. The car shudders a little but I don't lose power during the event. It will last at least 30 minutes and sometimes to the end of the drive.
    Has anyone experienced this?
  • crookstercrookster Member Posts: 40
    I have a couple of problems with my 04. First is the heating in the car smells awful for a couple of minutes and then goes away. Second the steering gets stiff and it is hard to turn out of a parking spot. Third, lately when I stop at a light I listen to the engine and it sounds like a diesel. Also the back interior light where the trunk is doesn't turn on when I press it but it turns on when i flick the switch on the steering wheel. I dont know what the problem is with this truck. Can somebody please tell me whats wrong. All I have had with this truck is problem after problem. :mad: I dont know why because I do everything I have to do to take care of the truck and I baby this truck. Do you think it would be easier to trade my jeep for another chrysler product than to take it to a dealer for a new lease? Thank You
  • mljjj5amljjj5a Member Posts: 2
    Did you try checking the throttle mechanism...sounds like it needs lubrication.
  • gcompcgcompc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Grand Cherokee, can't complain about it because it has ran great for the last 3 years with no problem except an A/C leak. I've read through the forum and compared my problem to some similar problems. The car will start and run fine until I turn off the engine and try to restart, then it will lope and die as if not getting fuel. I replaced the fuel filter, but still after waiting for about 30 minutes engine will start and run fine for however long I decide to drive. Stop the engine, run into the store come back, engine lopes and dies. I was thinking about getting a can of injector cleaners or water evaporator and poor in the tank. One other thing, now one eighth tank seems to be empty I put more gas in and it started but the problem continues. I think it may be the fuel pump, any second opinions, thanks
  • mdaymday Member Posts: 5
    i have a 2005 grand with the hemi, its missing and stumbling when accelerating after shifting into higher gear then just drops the rpms to around 1100 and it chugs from there until you floor it, or it shifts on its own ,im wondering if anyone has found a fix for it yet, i cant find a dealer that can figure it out
  • jeepgrljeepgrl Member Posts: 2
    I am new to this board and am in need of all of your expert opinions. For a couple of months my 2000 Grand Cheroke will idle up and down while in park or stopped in drive between 1000 and 2000 rpm. This past week, it has become more frequent and is now doing it at speeds of 55 mph (going between 2000 and 3000) and sometimes is feeling as though it is neutral. It has also died twice, it just dropped so low while stopped. It is shifting hard from park to reverse - jerking, which I have attributed to the rpms being too high. I have noticed if I "gun it" while it is doing this, either in park or drive, the problem seems to temporarily stop. Any ideas of what it could be would be greatly appreciated!
  • 19951995 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, i had this prob on my earlyer grand, it was the t.p.s. throtle positon sensor. easy fix, prob do it youre self, i would buy, the chilltens book, or the hanes or tell youre machanic, manual, shows how to fix. good luck.
  • jpondjpond Member Posts: 2
    None that the dealerships or the DC will admit. I'm in the exact same boat myself, lets try and collectively beat these scumbags at their own game. Just yesterday I experienced the exact same problem that you had---the car started to stutter...
    I have had mine in the shop 3 times because the brakes fail. They drop all the way to the floor and then the rpms rev in the engine--as though its going to accelerate and take off...pretty scary when you dont have brakes. each time the service department 'couldnt recreate the problem' so theres nothing wrong. my last conversation was with the owner of the delearship as she was assuring me that the vehicle was safe to drive 1200 miles on vacation to FL. I had to rent a vehicle out of pocket because i know the jeep isnt safe. I will do everything in my power to gets these vehicles recalled. They are death traps.
    I wish I had a more positive answer for you. Call DC directly and start a complaint.
    Good luck
  • jpondjpond Member Posts: 2
    having same problems but worse....3 seperate occasions the pedal went to the floor and the engine started to rev....scary....

    still having problems??
  • mutualfundsmutualfunds Member Posts: 2
    Same problem here with my brand new 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, but my dealer in Ansonia CT refused to acknowledge the problem in any way, shape or form. Insisted that it must be the way I was driving this beast, which also had a problem with stalling several times. Had work done several times already. I have reported the brake problem to the NHSTA, or something like that, as suggested on another message board. There's also an old Technical Service Bulletin available somewhere on the web that addresses this problem, along with numerous discussion threads just like this one. My next car will be a Honda CR-V. When the class action suit is filed, I'll be the first in line.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    Anyone notice how you click on the profile of most of the people posting all these problems and they just joined Edmunds that day?

    Hmmmmmmmm, I kind of wonder how many of these posts are real.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Anyone notice...

    Actually, most members have been around for a while but we've had quite a few newbies joining the forums over the past few months so they're a little more noticeable. Just click for their profiles again and you'll see they've become veterans!

    tidester, host
  • mb7mb7 Member Posts: 2
    my girlfriend leased a 2005 jeep grand cherokee febuary 19 she has the 3.7 liter engine.First week had to have rear drivers side speaker replaced,two weeks later coolant was low took it to the dealership they filled it said they could find no leaks,checked the coolant last saturday nothing showing, going in april 6 told them do not call until you find and fix leak she has just over 1000 miles and 46 days on this lease and this is my going to be her 4th trip for service other than that the jeep is great
  • jeepgrljeepgrl Member Posts: 2
    Do you think people honestly sit around and make up jeep issues because they have nothing better to do?

    Maybe us newbies finally found a place to assist with our questions from other experienced owners?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Maybe us newbies finally found a place to assist with our questions from other experienced owners?

    Apparently so! Here's another example of a newbie seeking assistance from other experienced owners: paule, "BMW 3-Series: Prices Paid & Buying Experience" #1921, 31 Aug 2004 10:24 pm

    It appears he stuck around for the invaluable assistance others provided! :)

    tidester, host
  • jstcruzinjstcruzin Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L, limited if it matters. I am having a problem in the morning it will not start. At any temp under 70 or so the motor will not fire. It turns over no problem, but wont start. If its hot out over 80 degrees, it starts up no problem. Why is this? When i was living up north i was told it was the fuel pump, and changed that and it did really change much after changing it. I moved to florida and it got better, but now its doing it again below 70-75 degrees it has a hard time starting. Is there a cold start injector of some sort or anything else it might be. Oh i also changed the crank sensor too. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    I knew that post would elicit a response.
    Here's my point: I have been a member since August 31, 2004 and have many posts. It was awfully nice of you to track down my very first post for me. It brings back fond memories!

    You'll also notice that my first post wasn't a complaint about a vehicle and I also have a completely filled out profile.

    I was not implying that all of the recent posts were "fake"; I was just opening the question that some of them may be.

    And yes, I do believe that it is possible that some people may post fake complaints about a vehicle to prove their point on another forum.
    Don't believe me? Take a look at the 4Runner vs GC thread.

    I might add that I work for a company that converts Toyotas and have visited their engineering facility in Toyota City, Japan as well as their assembly plant in Princeton, IN and have a lot of respect for BOTH Toyota and DC engineers. I have nothing against either company and believe both the 4Runner and GC are very good vehicles.

    As far as GCs go, I have 165,000 miles on my '98 and it's still going strong.
  • peej1peej1 Member Posts: 9
    I just bought my first JGC and the light was on when got it. The owner said he had it to two shops and they both said it needed a complete tune up and air filter and O2 sensors.

    I found out that only one O2 sensor had been replaced, no wires, no cap, no rotor and only TWO PLUGS WERE NEW. Either this guy is a pure con artist or he is really too naive to see that the parts had not been touched.

    We changed the cap, rotor and plugs the first night. Guess what, no engine light, but not that easy. The next day the engine died and the light returned!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    This time I changed the fuel filter, but no success. Then I went straight for the fuel pump. The screen was clogged with years of crud and I able to clean and reassemble the module (1995 uses a single module for fuel pump, screen, pressure regulator and fuel guage.) After reinstalling the pump and the tank it started perfectly, but cut out after a few seconds--------as I said it's my first Jeep and I didn't know that the alarm system cuts off fuel until it is reset after the battery has been disconnected------------close the hood, lock all the doors and lock the last one with a key. Unfortunately I had already panicked and bought A NEW PUMP. Problem solved with the light!!
  • peej1peej1 Member Posts: 9
    I am waiting for the local YARD to find one. Let me know if you find out about the cost. Thanks.
  • peej1peej1 Member Posts: 9
    Read post from Peej1 dated 4-5-05. Probably the fuel pump!
  • peej1peej1 Member Posts: 9
    Also, is it a 318 engine? I just had to replace the intake belly pan gasket which is quite an ordeal. Mine was using about a qt of oil every 100 miles and would diesel after restarting it when hot. The bad gasket allowed air and oil to be sucked out of the engine and into the air/fuel mixture. Problem corrected yesterday and so far it is not using any oil and no smoke or dieseling.
  • peej1peej1 Member Posts: 9
    Can anyone tell me how to correct this problem? So far the LOM and VIC have been replaced and the wiring seems to be okay. Did I miss something?
    Thanks.
  • maxspeedmaxspeed Member Posts: 1
    I too am having a silmilar problem with a 1991 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 L 4X4, After checking the alternator and finding it good I still can not get the system to charge. I also thought of bypassing the computer with a standard voltage regulator. I would appericate any help you also might be able to porvide if you get an answer to your problem. Email me if you can help at max@slobbers.com Thank you for taking the time to read this .. Max
  • aarghjaarghj Member Posts: 2
    I seem to be having a problem with my 96 JGC. My jeep has almost 150,000 miles on it at this time and has been a wonderfully reliable car the entire time I have owned it. Generally, when the vehicle is cold, I will have issues where the transmission does not appear to engage from a stop until the engine is revved, and sometimes I have to gun the engine a couple times to make it grab. This also occurs when I come to a stop at a light or stop sign. It hasnt been a huge problem for me because once the vehicle is warmed up it seems to stop having the problem. I was assuming it might be something in the transmission filter, but the other day it started doing it even after the engine was warmed up.

    Possible causes I can think of are the torque converter being worn out, transmission filter being clogged limiting fluid flow, or simply a worn out transmission. Does anyone have first hand knowledge of this issue, or have any relevant knowledge to this issue, that might be able to point me in the correct direction? Dealer wants almost $3000.00 dollars to repair it, and im looking for alternatives.

    TIA
    aarghj
    :confuse:
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Email me if you can help at ***@****.***

    Please keep the discussion here so everyone benefits. To do otherwise defeats the purpose of a message board which is to share information, opinions and experiences. Stick around and enjoy the discussion!

    tidester, host
  • cesmdcesmd Member Posts: 2
    One of the parking light bulbs in my 2000 JGC headlight assembly has burned out. The dealer tried to remove the headlight assembly but could not. The jack screw comes out but the three pins behind the light are frozen in their sockets. The dealership said the only way to replace the bulb would be to break the whole headlight assembly. Does anyone have any suggestions or have had a similar experience? Thanks.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    Is your transmission fluid low? That could cause the symptoms described.
  • russlarussla Member Posts: 74
    This may sound trivial, but when the rear light failure came on in my Jeep, there was one (of the three) 3rd brake lights out. when I replaced just one, the VIC still reported a light out.
    the parts guy told me that all 3rd brake lights need to be replaced, so the voltage drain, or resistance, (or what ever is used to establish that all are there) is back to specifics. if one is new and two are old, then the light in the VIC remains on

    I didn't bother with it, and eventually, it stopped telling me that my lights were out, and I can't explain that

    regards
  • aarghjaarghj Member Posts: 2
    I have checked the transmission fluid, and it appears to be at the correct level and quite clean...
    I dont suspect the fluid level or fluid to be the problem.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    I'm pretty sure you're describing the same condition I experience with my '98. My Jeep however noticeably got worse AFTER changing the trans fluid. I used a non-Chrysler filter and I think that may be exacerbating the problem.
    I just bought an OEM filter the other day but have not installed it.
    Since I have 166,000 on the truck I figure I can live with it. It only happens at low speed and in similar conditions to what you describe. It's definitely not worth $3,000 for me to fix it.
    I think I remember seeing something about a faulty transmission sensor on another website but I have not tried replacing it. Maybe that may be an option for you.
  • sbgmdsbgmd Member Posts: 2
    Wow, finally someone else with this same problem! (I have a 93 JGCL v8) I am working on this through another forum site, but wondering what you may have come across so far...
    For me, it happens right at about 65 degrees... when I turn the key to "on" (not to the point of turning it over) above 65 degrees, I can hear the 2 second-or-so sound from the back telling me that the fuel pump was turned on - and it starts fine. But below 65 degrees, turning key on, I can't hear the fuel pump start - and of course the Jeep won't start either.
    I'm told that when the key is "on", the computer sends a ground to the fuel pump relay, which in turn activates the fuel pump for those two seconds. So it would seem that something is happening between the computer, the FP relay and the pump itself. I've tried replacing the relay, but no help there. I've been told to look for loose grounds, corroded wiring between these components, but won't get to it until this coming weekend.
    I have tried tracing the wiring back from the fuel pump to the front of the vehicle, but if I'm following it correctly, it seems to connect up into the bottom of the Jeep just below the left rear seat & I haven't found where it comes back out into the engine compartment. Really just trying to find all the possible "ground" locations, and see if there are any loose/corroded wires/connectors.
    Gotta spend more time with it. Please let me know where you're at on this... tx
  • peej1peej1 Member Posts: 9
    aarghj,
    You could try my "FIX' for this, but it might not work if the tranny is just worn out. I am hearing more and more that these trannies are being retired around 135,000 which is where I am right now. My transmission had a seal leak which the previous owners neglected to repair causing some damage, but usually only a problem when it was cold. I replaced the seal and changed the filter and fluid. In all my vehicles I also use transmission sealer and conditioner. That still did not take care of the shifting problem from 2nd to 3rd. Our local parts yard did not have a cheap replacement, but suggested I add limited slip differential additive to the mix. It has taken about two weeks and 2500 miles, but the shifting is steadily improving. Today it was about perfect all day. This is not a cure all, but many of the jeep shifting issues seem to be caused by sticky valves rather than bad clutches. I will keep you informed of my progress.
    Peej1
  • ron3520ron3520 Member Posts: 5
    It sounds like the transmission is going in and out of "lock up". It could be that the brake lights are coming on for some reason, that would disconect the lock up mode to the trans.

    Ron3520
  • elshrinko1elshrinko1 Member Posts: 2
    My husband and I just bought a 2002 JGCL in February and it has been to the shop 3 times already. The first time, it was leaking both oil and pw steering fluid. We had to get a new pws pump and the oil pan plug was stripped. Luckily, the used car dealer had given us a 3-month or 3K mile warranty with Western General with a $100 deductible. Unluckily, Western General claimed that since we bought the car on Friday and took it to Jeep the following Monday, it was a pre-existing problem and they did not want to pay. The used car dealer paid for the repair.

    The next week, my husband noticed that the jeep was not shifting properly and hesitated between gears (almost like it was temporarily going into neutral). He put a tester on it and the code showed up as problem between gears 3 and 4. Jeep replaced a sensor and said it was repaired. Western General again did not want to pay for the repair, but we managed to fight with them and they sent us a reimbursement (less the $100) after the fact.

    The third time we took it to the shop with the same transmission problem, Jeep found 7 transmission codes. They tore down the transmission for assessment and called Western General to come out for an inspection. After being without a car for over a week, we were told that the seal and filter were the wrong ones and that they had caused the transmission problems. Even though Western General's Warranty is supposed to control mechanical parts, including engine and transmission, they do not cover gaskets and filters. Therefore, they declined the claim and we are stuck paying to have the transmission repaired. In addition, the A/C blower motor was working intermittently and it too needs to be replaced.

    We have only made two payments on this vehicle and it has been to the shop three times for a minimum of a week each time. Is it possible to use the wrong filter? Would the wrong filter actually fit? Is there any way to run the VIN to track prior repairs?

    The overall cost of the transmission and A/C blower repair is about $3,500. That's quite hard to swallow before the third payment is due. I had done research on the vehicle before buying it and the reliability ratings were higher for the 2002 than previous years. I thought the problems had been worked out. Apparently, I thought wrong. Is there anything I can do to try to get Western General to pay? I have asked for a written statement, copies of their pictures they have on file regarding the repair, and the credentials of their adjuster.

    Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
  • endend Member Posts: 1
    You mentioned the fuel pump ring. I had my fuel pump quad ring replaced under warranty at 9000 on my 99 JGC. Now i am at 49000 and having the same problem. Would you replace the ring again or the whole fuel pump as the dealership is recommending?
  • 01jgcflorida01jgcflorida Member Posts: 4
    How do i remove the headlight assembly to replace the bulbs. i have a 2001 grand cherokee laredo and two turn signal bulbs are blown. i tried to replace them myself and i was able to remove a long, about 10 inch, bolt from the headlight assembly but still couldn't get it loose. i don't see any other bolts holding it on. HELP!
  • crookstercrookster Member Posts: 40
    go to www.wjjeeps.com (helps a lot!!!!) :)
  • 01jgcflorida01jgcflorida Member Posts: 4
    THANKS!!!!! that had the info i needed. That's a great site.
  • peej1peej1 Member Posts: 9
    russla,

    Thanks for the tip. $3.28 plus tax and the problem is solved. I had already replaced the main bulbs, but not the two in the high mount light.

    Any experience with cruise control and speedometer? My speedometer and odometer work intermittently and so does the cruise control. The date reported on the overhead console is always correct even when the main display is not working.

    Peej1
  • peej1peej1 Member Posts: 9
    Is it a 5.2 liter? If so, remove the breather cap on the driver's side valve cover and put you fingers over the hole. If it is sucking in air, the lower intake manifold gasket may be leaking which causes several problems including oil consumption. I would not worry about the mileage as much as how it has been used and maintained.
  • peej1peej1 Member Posts: 9
    Grind off the top of the two hinge pins and drive them out. Replace the bushings and pins with either "HELP" parts or dealer parts. The whole proceess takes about 20 minutes. Make sure you use a center punch to stake the new pins securely in place. Just did mine two weeks ago.
  • gallagher05gallagher05 Member Posts: 15
    Daimler Chrysler will not take responsibilty for ANY problems, the just play "pass the buck," hoping the consumer will tire out, go away or trade up!! I have a 2003 JGC Laredo, it has 28,000 miles on it, and has been in to the shop numerous times. Rotors were replaced at 4000 miles because they were warped. CD player replaced, it was defective internally from factory, rear lift gate cylinders were bad (lift gate would open, but not lift up), so those were replaced, back window was out of brakets and rattling- fixed. My vehichle has shifted irradically since I bought it and they kept telling me it was driving as designed, or "could not duplicate problem." In Sept of 04' the check engine light was on, and the serv. dept. stated it was my O2 sensor, so they put a new gas cap on. In Dec of 04' I began to have problems in reverse, it would stick- not move and once I was able to get it to drive in reverse and put it in drive, it went very slow; check engine light was on as well. Took it in to the dealership and they told me that it was the "sensor" for the governor pressure solenoid, replaced sensor and was ok (so they said). Two days later the check engine light came on again, and it was did the same thing with reverse and drive. This time they replaced the pressure solenoid. In Jan of 05' it was completely stuck in reverse and had to be towed in, they stated the rear clutch was stuck (Does anyone know what would cause that to happen in the first place?) and it was also stuck in second gear. Basically the rebuilt the tranny with new seals, and a new rear clutch. Feb 05' I had to bring it back AGAIN, because it was still shifting irradically, going up to 4000 RPM's while driving 40-50 mph, whistling noise from front end, so this time they replaced the alternator! I am still having problems, but they cant seem to duplicate and/or find anything wrong... how surprising huh? Anyhow, my jeep clunks when it goes into reverse and sort of moves/jumps to the right a bit as I put in in reverse, when on an incline if I put it in neutral, it makes a loud spinning noise, oh and I had my front rotors and calipers replaced at 28,000 miles, but remember I had new ones put on at 4000 miles, so basically these rotors only had 24,000 miles on them. That cost me 253$! I could not agree more about Daimler Chrysler being scumbags. I feel they negligent, do not care about their consumers, and they are crooks. I have utilized all the proper channels, by first working with the service department, then the head manager at the dealership, then I began to call D/C, and they said they would turn my complaints over to their lemon law dept and I would hear back from someone within 72 hours- well that never happened. So, then I began to write corporate HQ's via Jeeps site, all repsonses except for one were auto generated, and not once did ANYONE from D/C call. I have since turned them over to the BBB which the now have the complaint on file ( I would suggest ANYONE that is having consistent problems with no resolve turn Daimler over if you have contacted them and they are not doing what they should for you as a consumer of theirs.) I also turned them in to the State Attorney Generals office, they were investigating it, but I have since retained a lawyer, because my jeep does qualify under the lemon law act, since it has been documented before 7000 miles that my vehichle was shifting irradically, amongst many other problems. Like yourself, I am going on a vacation to Myrtle beach, SC in May and I refuse to drive this vehichle that far, not knowing what is still wrong with it, even though they keep saying "no problem found or cant duplicate." - so that leaves me with having to rent a car too! My suggestion to anyone that has a lemon (look up lemon laws for your state) should either turn your complaints over to your state attorney generals office or contact a lemon law lawyer in your state. The lawyer I retained will only take your case if they think they can win it for you, and he charges me nothing, win or lose. If I win, they charge Daimler Chrysler, not me. If anyone else reads this as well, would love to hear feed back on what might be causing the noises I hear when putting it in to neutral and the clunking when I put it in reverse. Oh and I now hear what sounds like air in my brakes??? Sorry this was so long, and thanks for any responses!! PS: Mercedes made a very bad choice when the aligned with Daimler. My next vehichle sure wont be american made, because I already had a jeep liberty that was NOTHING except probs, and the dealership "talked" me in to up grading to the JGC with only 11,000 miles on my liberty, arrrgh! People need to really get tough with D/C and fight back.
  • gallagher05gallagher05 Member Posts: 15
    When I put my vehichle in reverse it clunks, and when I put it in to neutral it makes a spinning/hissing noise. You are able to hear the noise in neutral much better when the Jeep is parked on a hill? I have taken it in to the dealership 2 times for this and they cant duplicate it, and state no problem found. I wrote a lengthy post earlier about all the probs I have had, but to shorten this one, I had 3 probs w/the tranny in Dec- Jan... finally having to have it rebuilt with only 28,000 miles on it. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. PS: the hissing noise is not always there, but very loud and evident when parked on a hill?
  • gallagher05gallagher05 Member Posts: 15
    I tried to edit my message. I wrote that Mercedes teamed up with Daimler, I meant BMW. Sorry for the error.
  • genewsgenews Member Posts: 1
    I have an 1997 JGC The temperature gauge stopped woring on the overhead display. This happen when the dealer fixed it from a wreck which cause the grill as well as the hood. I was wondering if you think that maybe they forgot to "hook it back up". If anyone has information on where I may find this under the hood.

    Thanks,
  • nynn444nynn444 Member Posts: 1
    We have a pre-owned 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Bought it from my sister who takes unbelievable care of a vehicle. It had 17,800 miles on it and was in showroom condition. I've had it about 15 months and I absolutely love it except for one thing - When I accelerate slightly from a relative slow speed, there's an absolute neck-wrenching jerk in the transmission. My sister had it back in the shop twice for the jerking and we've had it back once for the same thing plus some type of sensor went bad and almost stranded my grandaughter and me. The check engine light came on and we had to have it towed to our dealer where they claim it was some type of sensor. While it was in the shop I again mentioned the jerking in the transmission and got the standard "It's normal for a Jeep" line. I can't believe this is normal. Did you get any responses from your question about transmission problems on this forum? Please reply if possible to: grit4@bellsouth.net Thanks. L. Edwards
  • gallagher05gallagher05 Member Posts: 15
    its very possible that they either forgot to re-wire it if it was not wired while working on front end, or they forgot to reset it. Call them and bring it back in.
  • gallagher05gallagher05 Member Posts: 15
    How many miles does your JGC have? Is Western General affliated with Daimler? Or just a company you have your warrenty through? By the way, you can run a carfax report on this jeep since it was previously owned, go to www.carfax.com it will cost you 19.95, but it is well worth it, because it will tell you if there were any major problems with the jeep before you bought it. Many reputable dealerships will now run one for you before you buy the vehichle, but its too late now that you own it. Daimler needs to do something about their transmissions, too many people are having problems, and it angers me greatly that they are fully aware of this. Good luck with your jeep!
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