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Has anyone experienced this?
I have had mine in the shop 3 times because the brakes fail. They drop all the way to the floor and then the rpms rev in the engine--as though its going to accelerate and take off...pretty scary when you dont have brakes. each time the service department 'couldnt recreate the problem' so theres nothing wrong. my last conversation was with the owner of the delearship as she was assuring me that the vehicle was safe to drive 1200 miles on vacation to FL. I had to rent a vehicle out of pocket because i know the jeep isnt safe. I will do everything in my power to gets these vehicles recalled. They are death traps.
I wish I had a more positive answer for you. Call DC directly and start a complaint.
Good luck
still having problems??
Hmmmmmmmm, I kind of wonder how many of these posts are real.
Actually, most members have been around for a while but we've had quite a few newbies joining the forums over the past few months so they're a little more noticeable. Just click for their profiles again and you'll see they've become veterans!
tidester, host
Maybe us newbies finally found a place to assist with our questions from other experienced owners?
Apparently so! Here's another example of a newbie seeking assistance from other experienced owners: paule, "BMW 3-Series: Prices Paid & Buying Experience" #1921, 31 Aug 2004 10:24 pm
It appears he stuck around for the invaluable assistance others provided!
tidester, host
Here's my point: I have been a member since August 31, 2004 and have many posts. It was awfully nice of you to track down my very first post for me. It brings back fond memories!
You'll also notice that my first post wasn't a complaint about a vehicle and I also have a completely filled out profile.
I was not implying that all of the recent posts were "fake"; I was just opening the question that some of them may be.
And yes, I do believe that it is possible that some people may post fake complaints about a vehicle to prove their point on another forum.
Don't believe me? Take a look at the 4Runner vs GC thread.
I might add that I work for a company that converts Toyotas and have visited their engineering facility in Toyota City, Japan as well as their assembly plant in Princeton, IN and have a lot of respect for BOTH Toyota and DC engineers. I have nothing against either company and believe both the 4Runner and GC are very good vehicles.
As far as GCs go, I have 165,000 miles on my '98 and it's still going strong.
I found out that only one O2 sensor had been replaced, no wires, no cap, no rotor and only TWO PLUGS WERE NEW. Either this guy is a pure con artist or he is really too naive to see that the parts had not been touched.
We changed the cap, rotor and plugs the first night. Guess what, no engine light, but not that easy. The next day the engine died and the light returned!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This time I changed the fuel filter, but no success. Then I went straight for the fuel pump. The screen was clogged with years of crud and I able to clean and reassemble the module (1995 uses a single module for fuel pump, screen, pressure regulator and fuel guage.) After reinstalling the pump and the tank it started perfectly, but cut out after a few seconds--------as I said it's my first Jeep and I didn't know that the alarm system cuts off fuel until it is reset after the battery has been disconnected------------close the hood, lock all the doors and lock the last one with a key. Unfortunately I had already panicked and bought A NEW PUMP. Problem solved with the light!!
Thanks.
Possible causes I can think of are the torque converter being worn out, transmission filter being clogged limiting fluid flow, or simply a worn out transmission. Does anyone have first hand knowledge of this issue, or have any relevant knowledge to this issue, that might be able to point me in the correct direction? Dealer wants almost $3000.00 dollars to repair it, and im looking for alternatives.
TIA
aarghj
:confuse:
Please keep the discussion here so everyone benefits. To do otherwise defeats the purpose of a message board which is to share information, opinions and experiences. Stick around and enjoy the discussion!
tidester, host
the parts guy told me that all 3rd brake lights need to be replaced, so the voltage drain, or resistance, (or what ever is used to establish that all are there) is back to specifics. if one is new and two are old, then the light in the VIC remains on
I didn't bother with it, and eventually, it stopped telling me that my lights were out, and I can't explain that
regards
I dont suspect the fluid level or fluid to be the problem.
I just bought an OEM filter the other day but have not installed it.
Since I have 166,000 on the truck I figure I can live with it. It only happens at low speed and in similar conditions to what you describe. It's definitely not worth $3,000 for me to fix it.
I think I remember seeing something about a faulty transmission sensor on another website but I have not tried replacing it. Maybe that may be an option for you.
For me, it happens right at about 65 degrees... when I turn the key to "on" (not to the point of turning it over) above 65 degrees, I can hear the 2 second-or-so sound from the back telling me that the fuel pump was turned on - and it starts fine. But below 65 degrees, turning key on, I can't hear the fuel pump start - and of course the Jeep won't start either.
I'm told that when the key is "on", the computer sends a ground to the fuel pump relay, which in turn activates the fuel pump for those two seconds. So it would seem that something is happening between the computer, the FP relay and the pump itself. I've tried replacing the relay, but no help there. I've been told to look for loose grounds, corroded wiring between these components, but won't get to it until this coming weekend.
I have tried tracing the wiring back from the fuel pump to the front of the vehicle, but if I'm following it correctly, it seems to connect up into the bottom of the Jeep just below the left rear seat & I haven't found where it comes back out into the engine compartment. Really just trying to find all the possible "ground" locations, and see if there are any loose/corroded wires/connectors.
Gotta spend more time with it. Please let me know where you're at on this... tx
You could try my "FIX' for this, but it might not work if the tranny is just worn out. I am hearing more and more that these trannies are being retired around 135,000 which is where I am right now. My transmission had a seal leak which the previous owners neglected to repair causing some damage, but usually only a problem when it was cold. I replaced the seal and changed the filter and fluid. In all my vehicles I also use transmission sealer and conditioner. That still did not take care of the shifting problem from 2nd to 3rd. Our local parts yard did not have a cheap replacement, but suggested I add limited slip differential additive to the mix. It has taken about two weeks and 2500 miles, but the shifting is steadily improving. Today it was about perfect all day. This is not a cure all, but many of the jeep shifting issues seem to be caused by sticky valves rather than bad clutches. I will keep you informed of my progress.
Peej1
Ron3520
The next week, my husband noticed that the jeep was not shifting properly and hesitated between gears (almost like it was temporarily going into neutral). He put a tester on it and the code showed up as problem between gears 3 and 4. Jeep replaced a sensor and said it was repaired. Western General again did not want to pay for the repair, but we managed to fight with them and they sent us a reimbursement (less the $100) after the fact.
The third time we took it to the shop with the same transmission problem, Jeep found 7 transmission codes. They tore down the transmission for assessment and called Western General to come out for an inspection. After being without a car for over a week, we were told that the seal and filter were the wrong ones and that they had caused the transmission problems. Even though Western General's Warranty is supposed to control mechanical parts, including engine and transmission, they do not cover gaskets and filters. Therefore, they declined the claim and we are stuck paying to have the transmission repaired. In addition, the A/C blower motor was working intermittently and it too needs to be replaced.
We have only made two payments on this vehicle and it has been to the shop three times for a minimum of a week each time. Is it possible to use the wrong filter? Would the wrong filter actually fit? Is there any way to run the VIN to track prior repairs?
The overall cost of the transmission and A/C blower repair is about $3,500. That's quite hard to swallow before the third payment is due. I had done research on the vehicle before buying it and the reliability ratings were higher for the 2002 than previous years. I thought the problems had been worked out. Apparently, I thought wrong. Is there anything I can do to try to get Western General to pay? I have asked for a written statement, copies of their pictures they have on file regarding the repair, and the credentials of their adjuster.
Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the tip. $3.28 plus tax and the problem is solved. I had already replaced the main bulbs, but not the two in the high mount light.
Any experience with cruise control and speedometer? My speedometer and odometer work intermittently and so does the cruise control. The date reported on the overhead console is always correct even when the main display is not working.
Peej1
Thanks,