Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
front rotors (twice), U-joints, rear wiper motor, sway bar links, leaking transfer case (twice)O2 sensor shorted, air conditioning went out (needed new evaporator), and currently the rear differential bearings are out and need to be replaced. All this with 65,000 miles on it. I was upset about the differential bearings, I felt that this was too early for them to be bad so I called Chrysler and they will take care of parts and most of the labor on that. Anyone else had this many problems on their '97? The total for our repairs is $4500 and all these have been done in the last year and 9 months!
1. Only half of the overhead computer was illuminated.
2. Immense pull to the right. (Told that to the service department every time it went it for an oil change, "Oh, the alignment is fine ma'am, that's just the road you're on." My favorite, "That's just the JEEP in it."
3. Speedometer stuck at 45 mph.
4. Difficulty starting (the fuel pump had to be replaced).
5. The pull to the right was finally fixed by replacing the ball joint. However, after 19,000 miles the tread on the front tires was completely worn. DC is replacing those since they were the result of the faulty ball joint.
I have to admit, today you take a chance with any vehicle that you buy. But as a consumer, you hope to get the most out of your purchase. Please let me know if you have any other problems that I should be aware of. You know it's funny, I just discovered this town hall, and I have learned about my JAG than my mechanic has been able to tell me.
Mack
Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks !
John
Question - how did anyone get a repurchase deal out of DC? If I have them get the car running again do I give up my right to get a repurchase agreement? HELP
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Mine is a 2000 V8 GCL Canadian model with the daylight driving lights that flashes in the day time but never happens when the headlights come on at night.
I had this problem since day one but I can live with it until it gives me real problem. The rest of the vehicle is perfect (except the rotors)
Mine will flash at low rpm when idling at stops or red light , A/C off ( because rpm is higher when A/C is on) AND auto headlight switch at on or off makes no difference .
To avoid the embarassment, I pull the hand brakes to turn it off when this happens at the red light or long stops.
Please let me know how to fix it.
Actually, mine's a '96
Front rotors, rear wiper motor, sway bar links, leaking transfer case, new evaporator, complete transmission overhaul...
This is a vehicle that an extended warranty pays off big- I took it in for every little thing, because I wanted the truck to be just right- and when I fixed everything- it was great- perfect in fact.
I think the nagging problems will end soon for you- but it is annoying.
It's a 4x4 limmo and you hear every little thing.
Did anyone here buy an extended warranty? Thinking of buying a 5 year/100,000 mile warranty from Warrantech (Repairmasters).
What is your experience with extended warrantees?
Thanks.
-Don
I'm shopping around now since my warranty will expire soon and I was hoping the newer model had fewer problems. Even with an extended warranty, I will not get a JGC again since all these problems still exist.
hutchw
When I stop at 30 - 50 mph the steering wheel shakes.... I am far from a mechanic and curious if this is similar the the brake issue everyone talks about. Does anyone know if the 1999 had a recall on the brakes and also what rotors and pad replacement would cost from the Jeep Dealers...
I had a 98 GC 26Z and replaced the rotors on a recall... That problem seemed different....
Thanks in advance for your response...
Leaking transfer case: This "new process" TC runs with the same ATF as the transmission. After replacing the O-ring twice, and carefully inspecting for a grooved housing (finding none), I learned that it is *highly unusual* for the fluid level in the TC to be high enough to leak at the speed sensor, which is near the TOP of the TC.
RUN, do not walk, to your local AAMCO or service guy and have them pull the TC and REPLACE the seal between the OD section and the TC. The tranny's fluid is leaking into the TC, causing overfill and leakage at the sensor.
Mine RAN DRY and resulted in a transmission rebuild at about 130k miles. I was watching the tranny level and topping off maybe 1 qt. every 2 months, but towards the end the leakage rate must have grown substantially and it ran dry. Lots of blue-steel ground parts were the result.
You others with shifting problems: Check for this leakage also! Other than the fluid level, that is how this problem first manifested.
Viscous Coupling: The "lurch" or "hard bumping" you feel when turning all the way is this device in the transfer case that allows the drivetrain to slip when the wheels are thus turning at different rates.
I had mine replaced at the dealer for $950 after learning from two private service guys that this and later TCs or couplings were NOT available as aftermarket parts. This also occurred at about 130k miles.
Good Luck!
Almost every problem discussed here is one I have had myself: Fuel pump, front rotors, rear wiper motor, sway bar links, leaking transfer case, and the ever annoying pull to the right because the front passenger tire's wear is greater on the outside of the tire. I thought I was going mad on the last one, taking my car to different places for alignments in the hope that it would correct the problem. I love my jeep when it works, but that is rarely the case and it spends more time in service than it does on the road. It's bad when a tech. asks you wait patiently while he pores through the service log because 'this vehicle has had so much done to it.'
But enough griping from me, and although I will never buy a jeep again because I'm tired of donating money to service depts., I do have it paid off and plan to keep it for a little while longer. All right, now no more griping. Just needed to vent a little.
Mine has over 100,000 and I'm thinking about getting the radiator and timing belt replaced as preventative maintenance. I called three places, including the dealership for quotes. The dealership, funnily enough, has not returned my call. One gave me a quote for both the radiator and the timing belt. The third informed me my car has no timing belt, and relies on some equivalent part (I couldn't quite make it out on my voicemail) that won't need replacement until 150,000 miles. I should just check the owner's manual, but does anyone know whether or not the jgc's have a timing belt or not? Thanks for entertaining my question.
However, Rotor warpage is a common problem with disc brakes and happens on all vehicles regardless of make. If u have a "Nice, cooperative dealer" u might get him to absorb part of the cost the first time around.
Good Luck
A less expensive and better solution is aftermarket parts. For example, you can buy better quality brake rotors and pads at your local NAPA store (or equivalent) for about the same prices as OEM, and doing the work yourself can save a ton of money. If you want to really do it up right, get a set of Stillen cross-drilled brake rotors for all four corners and use the Stillen Metal Matrix (rear) and Performance Friction (front) pads. These things throw less brake dust, and will last a lot longer, while providing smoother/quicker stops. They are not that much more expensive. These puppies work; I have installed and used them and have no complaints with them.
In August 2000, my wife and I leased a brand new 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee with all options. We began having problems within 300 miles of purchase and continued to have problems until Chrysler took the vehicle back and paid us for every lease payment we had made, our deposit and all aftermarket items we had purchased such as floor mats. The dealer who leased us the vehicle gave us absolutely no satisfaction regarding the repair of the problems. The District Manager for our zone directed us to another dealer. This second dealer worked very hard to correct our problems, however, was not effective in doing so.
The problems and their stories are as follows:
Pull to the right
Remedies included: numerous alignments (first only toe until adjustable ball joints were available), tire rotations, installation of adjustable ball joints and inflating the tires to varying levels. These repairs and alignments led only to extrenely excessive tire wear, two new tires and no correction for the pull to the right.
Whine in the drivetrain between 55 and 65 mph
Remedies included: replacement of front and rear differential assemblies, rear axle shafts and bearings and the rear differential/axle housing. These repairs eventually reduced the whine and vibration to approximately 50% of their initial levels.
Transmission slippage between 2nd and 3rd gear shift
Remedy: replacement of transmission valve body repaired the problem initially, however, the problem returned the end of our possession of the Jeep.
Clunking/torque-loading when vehicle was shifted from Park to Drive
Transmission linkage was adjusted and newly designed yoke assembly and rear driveshaft was installed. These repairs did not solve the clunking/torque-loading problem.
I searched for the highest manager/exectutive possible within the Dealer Services division of Chrysler until we reached an agreement that was satisfactory to us.
As I read the various stories in this Town Hall forum, it was clear that there are a number of us who believe, despite all of the design, build-quality and service issues, the Jeep Grand Cherokee is probably one of the nicest SUVs available from a features, comfort, styling standpoint. I hope Daimler-Chrysler can get their act together. Until then, I will be staying away from the Jeep Grand Cherokee and probably all other Chrysler products.
The vehicle only has 24k. The dealer says all Jeep transmissions sound like this! Sure!
Anyone else with similar problems?
My brakes squeak, dealer says all is OK with brakes, I think new pads will help. Anyone done this to fix the squeak???
Pulls to the right, if you let the wheel go, car goes right, alignment checks good, suspect there is something wrong with the hardware. Anyone had such experience and what was the fix???
Front end is whining once you get past 35-40 mph. What's the fix??? First time it went in they could not duplicate problem, going back in two days for all the above, would like to have an answer for the dealer on how to repair these problems so they can't tell me it's normal or can't duplicate.
Thanks for the help.
At this point, I really have to mention, DO NOT TAKE YOUR VEHICLES TO PRECISION AUTO TUNE.
Once towed, again, to Precision auto tune, they determined the problem was a bad fuel pump, filter. They also replaced the air filter, did an oil change, replaced plugs, wires, distributor, rotor cap and then the ignition coil went out. They replaced that also. I picked up the jeep and it ran great, but I noticed that when the jeep was idling, I was blowing an extreme amount of white smoke (suspected blown head gasket). Four days later, once again on a trip to my in laws, the jeep was running great. At one point on the interstate the jeep sputtered once and died at 70mph. Once again it was towed to the shop. Once again after another diagnostic, they told me it was the ignition coil. Once replaced, it ran like a dream. The jeep ran great for another week, and once again on a trip to my mother in law's the jeep died on the way back home. Same symptoms, sputtered once and died on the side of the interstate. This time, we got in touch with the owner of the shop who told us he would take care of everything. We were once again towed to the shop. Once again they did a diagnostic. Once again they could not find a problem. The diagnostic did say that I was getting too rich a fuel mixture (the white smoke) but other than that nothing. On a whim, they replaced the ignition coil and it started immediately. Today, I took it to the dealer with no luck. They tell me it might be the computer. With over $1400 spent on the original repairs, I am not about to spend another $1400 on a new computer.
As I said, the jeep did great until this last week or two. I still have not gotten the fuel mixture fixed because they tell me the message is coming from the computer and there is nothing they can do and no one can tell me why I am blowing through ignition coils like they are going out of style. My wife and I are about to cut our losses and get a new car. Unfortunately, we are shying away from Jeeps now. Any ideas on what might have caused this? I do some work on cars myself. If I have an idea where to start, I figure Chilton's and myself might be able to salvage this Jeep. Thanks in advance.
I know that many other Jeep owners have experienced similar problems. Will you please Email me your suggestions for fixing this problem once and for all (if possible). jlee6@triad.rr.com.
Thanks.
I did not think much of it until it happened 4 mores times. Sometimes it happens when I turn the car on. I noticed that my digital trip meter that tells me how far I can drive has the same problem.
Has any one else had this problem? Does any one know what the problem is or how to fix it?
Thanks in advance.
1. Rotors: The steering wheel shakes when braking quickly or at higher speeds. I was suspicious that this might be because of warped rotors so I had the dealership check it out. The verdict: the rotors are "slightly warped". Their recommendation was to wait until I needed new brake pads and then have them both replaced. The rotors are only covered by warranty up until 12,000 miles, so anything I want to do is out of my pocket, so they say. I don't necessarily mind waiting until I need new brake pads, but what I find disconcerting is that this shaking when braking does not provide an enjoyable driving experience, and for a car that has only 15,000 miles and is only a year old, I have much higher expectations. (Recommendation for anybody else: do not have your rotors "shaved" or "ground"....it never really fixes the problem and only makes it more likely that they will warp again.) My preference for fixing this problem (besides lodging a complaint with DC), is to wait and see if I can live with it until I need brake pads, but then when I replace the rotors I would like to take it to my handy-dandy mechanics (not the DC dealership) and have them put in the same rotors with the lifetime warranty that they put in my 1994 JGC. My question is, since it will not be a DC rotor, and I'm assuming it will need to be done before 36,000 miles when my warranty runs out....if I have any other problems with my Jeep within the warranty period, will they discredit my warranty because the rotors are not a DC part?
2. Steering Column: I had the dealership check out a grinding noise in the steering column when turning right at low speeds (such as in a parking lot)at the 7500 mile service. This seemed to happen most when the car was parked for a period of time on particularly hot days. The dealership could "not duplicate the problem." Since the temperature has now cooled down some, I have not noticed this problem with any degree of frequency. I'm hoping it went away?!
3. Timing Belt: To answer a previous question.....the Jeeps do not have a timing belt, they have a timing chain, which is significantly stronger. As such, I did not need to replace the chain at all in the 118,000 miles that I owned my 1994 JGC. My mechanics (once again, not the dealership) stated it was unlikely that I would ever need to replace it.
Other than the rotor situation, I'm fairly happy with my 2001 JGC. I did not buy an extended bumper to bumper warranty on this vehicle, because it did not pay off on my 1994. I'm hoping that decision pays off this time. I do believe that if I have my mechanics replace my rotors and complete any other brake work I can satisfactorily resolve the rotor situation. The unfortunate part is that it will be at my own expense. Do you suppose I would have any luck in dealing with DC on this issue?
My wife had a similar problem with her 94 JGC, when it was under warranty the dealer replaced switch, but they never totally solved that problem. Dealer could never duplicate the problem, then we traded it in, so it was never resolved.
Would appreciate help from anyone that had this experience before.
Salesman said to use spare for rotation. Is this true?
Also, a friend of mine has a 96 Jeep GC Larado. He said that inorder to keep the 4wd system working correctly that I should always replace all 4 tires. Is this true?
Finally, car color is Inferno Red. Why does Jeep add $200 bucks to the sticker for Inferno Red paint?
Ray
Anyway, I am taking delivery Fri 11/16 and the finance guy was offering me a 7yr/100K mile extended warranty for $1,500. I have read all the issues with 99/00 JGC and do hope the 01 fares better - especially the rotor and brake problems.
Was wondering if anyone else had purchased the extended warranty and if so whether it was worth it? I recognize that that DC is giving 7/100 on the drivetrain thru 12/31, and also that the 01's are still kinda new, but thought I would ask the folks out there. Any input is appreciated.