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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • hopeitlastshopeitlasts Member Posts: 7
    I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee Laredo with 124,000 miles. I have not had many problems with it. Recently, and with no indication, my car would not start - it sounds like it wants to start but it doesn't. I have been doing some research - originally, I asked the mechanic to replace the crank sensor however, he said he was 100% sure that the car would not start if he did that. I had another mechanic look at it and now I'm really confused. One mechanic says it needs a new computer and a crank sensor, the second mechanic said that although the computer is not working it may not need to be replaced but it could be a connections somewhere and does not think I need a crank sensor but a harness wire. I don' t know which one is right. At this time I have paid for 3 tows and the car is at my home looking so sad - I really like my car and don't want to get rid of it. Should I have someone replace the cranks sensor even though the mechanic says he is 100% sure it won't start after that? or have the computer replaced (a check engine light never came on)? Jayne
  • rawho1rawho1 Member Posts: 1
    I shut my 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee off in the daytime and noticed my headlights were still on. I don't know if it is the daytime running lights or the headlights in general. The headlight switch was not on at the time. What could be the problem?

    Thank You,
    Rawho1
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    I would replace the computer last. That's a common item to change that rarely is the underlying problem.
    Why your mechanic would say that replacing a sensor would make the car NOT start is beyond me. Putting a new sensor in will not cause a car not to start. How he can be 100% sure about that is beyond me.
    I would at least find out if it is a fuel issue or an electrical issue.
  • jawartersjawarters Member Posts: 2
    Had the same problem in a 1994 JGC Laredo; mechanic replaced the steering damper (similar to a shock absorber); problem corrected.
  • hopeitlastshopeitlasts Member Posts: 7
    Thanks, I plan to look for another mechanic but it is so hard finding a good one.
  • goodfella2383goodfella2383 Member Posts: 1
    I have read the posts dating all the way back to June of 2004 regarding the passenger side heating and air conditioning malfunctioning. I purchased a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited that I bought Certified Pre-Owned from a dealer in Neptune, NJ. I also was suckered into purchasing the Added Care Plus package which the finance manager told me covered the vehicle bumper to bumper, with the exception of a few minor things like heated seats and it wasn't particularly worth the extra $1200 for the Maximum Care package. So I come across this problem with the heat and A/C on the passenger side and figure it's no big deal, I'll bring it to the dealer for service and finally use the warranty that I paid $800 for. However, as all of you did, I come to find out that this particular warranty package doesn't cover the blend air door and I got an estimate of $1207. The fact that on this message board alone there are 14 issues with this is enough to make me curious about this issue. I contacted Chrysler's warrantly customer service two seperate times and not only did they refuse to budge or offer partial liability for this issue, their terrible customer service reps refused to transfer me to a manager, so apparently Chrysler's CSR run their coroporation and they also began to get nasty when I questioned their integrity and why they don't stand by their product. So please, anyone who has had this problem or knows anyone else who owns a Jeep with the same problem, please reply to this post because Daimler Chrysler needs to be taught a lesson and the consumer is not going to continue to suffer at the hands of these big corporations. Shame, Shame, Shame, Shame on you Chrysler, if it has to come to that ;)
    Jeeps = :lemon:
    ps i will not solicit anyone because it is a violation of edmunds membership agreement just as i wouldnt violate my america online agreement either
    pps i am also having issues with my truck shaking and the rotors so feel free to comment back on that issue as well, im curious how many people as a class got screwed by Daimler chrysler and what type of "action" they took
  • mstoverinkmstoverink Member Posts: 22
    I finally took my JGC (97, V8 5.2L, ~90,000 miles) to a mechanic to to find out what was wrong with the A/C. They tell me the condensor needs to be replaced but it's 350 euro (about $450) and they can only get it from the states (I'm in Italy). So I told them I'd get it myself. But according to the Haynes Manual I have, if the condenser is replaced it recommends to replace the accumulator as well. Does anyone know if/why the accumulator would need to be replaced? Also, I couldn't find a listing for one online...is there anywhere I can find an a/c accumulator. Thanks for your help.
  • jenitajenita Member Posts: 1
    My mechanic say I have an oil leak and transmission leak in my 1996 jeep grand cherokee. I just got an oil change at Mobil and they did not mention any oil leak or transmission leak when they did the oil change, but they did mention that I needed a new cv boot. Wouldn't they have told me that I have an oil leak or trans mission leak.
  • russlarussla Member Posts: 74
    Oil Leaking, you have a 9 year old truck, it is bound to have some drops leaking from it. it may be only a few drops every 100 miles, but I imagine if you climbed under there and looked at your tranny and oil pan, you'll see some evidence of Oil.

    The question you need answered, is... Is it a severe oil leak?. The oil change places don't usually replace oil pan gaskets, so they won't try to sell you that service, they will try to sell you new air filters, pvc valves, wipers, and differential drain and refills. that's what they do. If they are being extra attentive, they may tell you that you have a bad leak, (they told you about the CV) but they may not, many times the expertise there is not suitable beyond draining and refilling your oil. so just cause they didn't comment doesn't mean they didn't see anything. (or their opinion of a leak is different from the median)

    Dealerships and other Mechanics, make money on any job they can get, so if they see a drop, they aren't lying to you when they say you have a leak. You need to have someone you trust that is auto savvy, tell you how bad the leak is, and whether it needs to be addressed immediately.

    I don't condone driving around in a car that is leaking lots of oil, and some states may have inspections that can be failed if the inspector determines the leak to be beyond reasonable.
  • par5par5 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Grand Cherokee with 50kmiles. It has only one problem. Just before coming to a complete stop or when I release the brakes to start again after stopping there is a clunk like slack is being taken up somewhere. Feels and sounds like the guy behind me bumped me slightly. I suppose it could be a brake problem but it feels like it might be something in the power train. The problem is persistent repeating at each stop.
  • rjeepthingrjeepthing Member Posts: 2
    I AM NEW TO THE FORUM JUST FOUND IT DUE TO A SEARCH FOR PARTS, TO ALL WHO ARE HAVING START PROBLEMS AND RUN PROBLEMS IN THEIR ZJ'S IT COULD BE DUE TO THE COIL. MY 94 ZJ IS FOR ONLY OFF ROAD BUT DUE TO HEAT I DESTROY A COIL ABOUT EVERY 2 YEARS. ON THE V8 THEY MOUNTED THEM BEHIND THE ALT. ON THE SIDE OF THE BLOCK WHERE THEY GET VERY HOT. THEY WILL WORK OCCATIONALY AND THEN WHEN HOT SHUT DOWN.
  • rjeepthingrjeepthing Member Posts: 2
    CHECK ALL BUSHINGS IN FRONT END INCLUDING CONTROL ARMS. I FOUND MY DEATH WOBBLE TO BE SOLVED BY REPLACING FRONT SHOCK BUSHINGS. WHEN I AM WHEELING I AM USING MY SHOCKS AS LIMITING STRAPS TO STOP MY DOWN TRAVEL AND IT IS DESTROYING THE UPPER BUSHINGS ON THE SHOCK. THE SHOCK IS THEN LOOSE. SO WHEN I HIT A BUMP THE WHEEL STARTS HOPPING AND TURNS TO DEATH WOBBLE. OTHER THAN THAT CHECK BALANCE OF TIRES AND CASTER ON THE FRONT END.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Hi Rjeepthing, welcome to Edmunds. Please don't post in all caps. It's considered shouting (rude) and because it's hard to read, most people just skip over posts in all caps. Thanks,

    Steve, Host
  • jeep4everjeep4ever Member Posts: 5
    First, Let me say I have been a proud and satisfied (most of the time) Jeep owner for 20 years. The Jeep I am currently selling has 220K miles on it and still runs like a champ. But they don't last forever, so I opted for something new(er): a 2002 GC Laredo V8.
    I think I can answer some of your questions. First, the unnoticable oil leak...in older Grand Cherokees, the rear main seal tends to leak after like 150,000. This leak is usually VERY slow and does not generally get very bad with time. My rear main seal leaked for 2 years, and still doesnt produce more than a drop or two here and there. In fact, you should not really have to add any oil between changes as long as you keep an eye on the dipstick level.
    A note: I have seen many Jeep dealers try to rip me off in terms of repairs/maintainence. My advice: do your own oil changes if possible. Get on the ground and get familiar with the underside of your vehicle. Read books. Learn where things are, what they do, and what they should look like. The more experience you gain the better. If you know NOTHING about your vehicle's mechanics, I suggest you have someone who does know something take your vehicle in for repairs. Sometimes just being able to "talk the talk" will make your mechanic do only what is necessary. Avoid dealerships. Go to a reputable (ask around) repair shop. If you go to a 20min oil change place...do NOT let them do ANYTHING besides change your oil. They would replace your engine if you let them.

    The not starting after running...this may be simple vapor lock. One thing...take off your gascap and try starting again. In my case it turned out to be the fuel pump. After replacing the fuel pump, I had to turn the key ON and leave it for several seconds, then try to start.

    The bump when you stop is a late downshift. Your transmission may need servicing or eventual replacement. My advice...drive it till she drops. Just keep your foot on the brake. Unless you can afford a transmission.

    Transmission leak? or so he says. Check your dipstick. Clean and full? Don't worry. Burnt and low...worry.

    Front end shimmy? Check sway bar links. They are easy and cheap to replace (if you have a cutting torch).

    DON't replace your computer unless a diagnostic has speciffically indicated it is malfunctioning. One specific problem is usually NOT the computer. If your computer goes, you will usually see numerous problems.

    Starting problems...could be anything. From experience (much experience) the problem with a Jeep Grand or Cherokee, the problem is most often a faulty fuel pump (that's why many warranties wont cover it) OR a faulty coil pack. If you find no spark and replace the coil pack, PLEASE replace outlet wiring (as some of these burn out when coil goes bad).

    I hope this helps some people.

    Finally, my question: I have a clunk (felt through my floorboards) when going over a dip. Like something is loose, but nothing is. Transmission checks out. Not when going over sharp bumps, but shallow dips. I know, VERY wierd. But listen, I have put my Jeeps (stock) through things most A1 Tanks wouldnt try. Gotta love em.

    I will check this post if you have any specific questions for me.

    -Lee
  • jeep4everjeep4ever Member Posts: 5
    I encourage everyone to join AAA. For a few dollars per month, you get FREE tows...up to 110 miles in New York. Just make sure you have it towed where you want it fixed, because they wont tow twice for the same problem.

    Another thing. Go OUTSIDE the city. Go to the smallest local shop you can find that still seems reputable (clean,, clean PEOPLE... etc.) Mention the Better Business Bureau (BBB). Indicate you have done some kind of business with them before. This sometimes makes people fly straight.

    Cheers,
    -Lee
  • jeep4everjeep4ever Member Posts: 5
    I've been sitting here reading all messages...seems people don't know about Chrystler's undersized brakes. Why else would a vehicle need new brakes every 10,000K miles? My advice...don't drive your Jeep like a BMW. Your Jeep is an Off-Road vehicle meant for easy stops. Dont cruise up to a red light and slam the brakes. If you never leave the highway, in my opinion, you should NOT own a Jeep. Jeeps are for snow, camping, trailriding, etc. If you are in the south and don't leave the highway, BUY A CAR. Today's prices for standard rotors are like $20 each. A full set of rotors and pads on all 4 wheels costs like $100 if you replace them yourself. Yet, your dealer may charge up to $1000. So. where does your money go? NOWHERE. It is very easy to replace these parts yourself. If my brakes are bad once per year, and it costs $120 for parts, it actually takes me $10 per month and about one hour per year to keep my brakes in top shape. In my opinion, there is no reason to own a Jeep GC unless you NEED it for your driving lifestyle. This does not include a 20 minute city commute to your office. Off-road vehicles are not made for city driving, nor should they be expected to. The reason your brakes go bad is because you dont live in the country where your Jeep is used to miles and miles without hard braking. The new Jeeps say "Trail Rated" NOT "City Rated", am I right? So be easy on your Jeep in the city. If possible, take it into the country, take it into the dirt, and you will FINALLY realize where that $40,000 went...it went to the trail!
    -Lee
  • jgco5fljgco5fl Member Posts: 6
    I moved both of the cross bars all the way back and i've not noticed any whistling...
    I'll pay more attention, but again, i've not noticed any whistling up to 100+ mph
  • fasteddy001fasteddy001 Member Posts: 13
    I have a 2000 JGC Limited with the IR Dual Zone Climate Control. The AC seems to work fine when you press the button ( it blows cold air) but the button doesn't light up.Is it possible to replace the light under the button or the whole button?

    Also, there is no ausdible click when you press the AC button and it doesn't seem to shut off (after I press the button again to turn off, the AC still blows cold air) but I can get the air to be warm if I want by playing with the temp controls and I beleive I can shut of the AC by turning off the entire system (with the right control dial) . I called a Jeep dealer who said I'd have to repalce the whole A/C control unit which would be about $500. Anyone have similar problems or a suggestion to help fix this problem?
  • nmertznmertz Member Posts: 27
    Once had a 89 (small) Wagoneer with a similar clunk. The transmission mounts were worn out, allowing play in the driveline. New mounts cured it.

    Good advice jeep4ever. I had a J10, a Comanche, and two wagoneers in the pre-Chrylser days; well, the last wagoneer was a Chrysler. Did as much of my own maintenance as I possibly could. Of course, then I could still get on the ground and be able to get back up w/o help! LOL! Would go back if they ever make another pickup.
  • jeepgrl34jeepgrl34 Member Posts: 8
    Hi Lee,
    I appreciated your posts...I am a fairly new Jeep owner, and while I have been fairly happy with my girl (she is a 1999 JGC Laredo ,with 56k) I was a bit setback when I had to dish out 500.00 for new calipers in which I was informed by my mechanic that I needed these "new replacement" ones because just replacing the rotors with the same type would have me back in the shop in the near future replacing them again.You say though I could have gotten away with replacement rotors and pads on all 4 wheels for just 100.00 (for parts only) and they wouldnt need repaired for say a year maybe,with good driving habits?My mechanic led me to believe that DC seems to have some type of "problem" (as he stated) with these brakes on 98-2000 JGC and I have begun looking into this also and there really seems to be alot of complaints registered on the NHTSA website.So was I taken for a ride by my mechanic?
    PS Just to clarify, I am not a city girl,my JGC is my country ride...:)))
  • emleeemlee Member Posts: 1
    My Jeep has been starting and then periodically not starting. It will just click. The lights come on. My husband had to hook jumper cables from the battery to the starter to get it started. Well I took it in to be checked, and the nechanic is telling me there is nothing wrong with the charging system. And not once did it not start when he tried it many many times. Of course As soon as I got it home, I turned it off and tried to start it and NOTHING!!! Just a loud click, only this time I can't start it again. .The mechanic says he can't diagnose it unless it happens when it's there. Someone HELP ME!! Thank You
  • fasteddy001fasteddy001 Member Posts: 13
    I haven't had this problem in a Jeep but have had it in other cars. If battery is charged and acessories light up/eclectrical items can be used (radio,windows, etc), aand you get no "click" or just one click then nothing- then its probably your starter. If its not your starter, it could be the ignition. But If this problem happens intermettinently, then its even more likely that the problem is your starter since the starter wears in spots and will occasionaly stop on a spot where it will work. If you can find your starter (I don't know it is on a Jepp but on my other amreican cars it could be accessed from under)neath and looked like a really long large soda can) and can rap it with a hammer or rubber mallet, then it might start. If that causes your starter to work, then replace your starter. You can usally buy rebuilt one's that are cheaper
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    The first thing I would do is check your battery connections. Remove both the positive and negative cables (negative one first) and clean it with a battery terminal cleaner (wire brush) you can buy at your local auto parts store.
    Clean the top of the battery with baking soda and water and make sure both the battery terminals (studs) and the cable connections are nice and shiny with the wire brush tool.
    Throw on some felt battery corrosion washers and see if you have any further problems.
  • dualsportdualsport Member Posts: 2
    I posted before but have more detailed info now, my 96 GC won't start when I turn the key to start. All I get is the small relay clicking which is under the hood in a black box full of relays and big fuses. I had installed a remote start before and it worked. Upon looking at its installation instructions, it hooks to a yellow wire from the key called start, I did not have 12v here when I turned the key to start. So I temporarily put a pushbutton from 12v to this yellow wire, so now I turn the key on and push this button to start. I have read about a transmission safety switch, when I put the auto trans into anything but P or N my button won't start, so I think this confirms the neutral safety switch is working. So, I believe it is the ignition switch, can anyone tell me how to change this on a 96 jeep GC? Someone said the key turns a rod that extends down to the switch mounted on the steering column, I cannot find this , or maybe I haven't looked hard enough? Any help appreciated.
  • schell1schell1 Member Posts: 8
    I am currently looking for a new car for my wife and she is looking to the 05 Grand Cherokee. Any regrets out there? Thanks Richard
  • twadetwade Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever get an answer to your question? I have a 99 JGC. The fan has stopped. Fan is ok if direct to battery, fuse is good, got to be the modual. Did you find it?
  • jeeproverjeeprover Member Posts: 17
    I have been looking at them myself and doing some research.

    http://www.wkjeeps.com/index.htm is an excellent resource.

    Take a look at "recalls and satisfaction notices" on that web page! Many teething problems with the new model. I would refrain from buying any WK that was made in the first six months or so. Production was started in July, and ramped up in September, I believe -- so that means prior to February 05. A lot of the new Jeeps on the lots right now are that old. You can find the production date somewhere on the vehicle... on one of the data plates. Or ask.

    I say this because I bought a '99 JGC in the first year of the WJ model. I loved it - but it had the squirrelly brakes (bad rotors and calipers), the window that wouldn't open, the seat problem, etc. -- all things that were later recalls or TSBs. I later bought a 2002 WJ, and today drive a 2004 WJ. It is an excellent vehicle, with virtually NO problems in the first 26,000 miles. (All of them, including the new one, have the clicking/popping noise in the steering column -- for which there are two different TSB's! In fact, I will have this problem looked at next week, while I am still on warranty. But it is a fact of life with 1999-2004 WJ's.

    DER
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    It looks like it should be relatively easy.
    Disconnect the battery.
    Remove the plastic panels to gain access to the ignition switch.
    Remove the three torx screws (you will need torx head bits to do this). One of the screws is located under the cover.
    Look for a retaining pin that needs to be pushed in to allow the cylinder to be removed.
    The lock cylinder will need to be rotated to the lock position and the key removed before it will come all the way out.
  • benoitbenoit Member Posts: 2
    maybe someone has some ideas before I do get a shop trying to replace half of the car ;-)

    96 Grand Cherokee, V8 5.2 liters. 120k miles or so.

    When using the car without the need for much power, things do run smoothly, but when trying to get a good acceleration (highway entrance for instance), the engine will not increase power at all and will behave a bit as if a rev limiter was preventing the engine to rev up... also when looking at the instant MPG, I can see that the gas usage is way increased even though the car doesn't accelerate.

    My mechanics tells me that the catalytic convertor might have to be replaced... but this really doesn't seem related.

    The engine light does not go on...

    Anybody has an idea what to look for, sounds to me that this might be more an issue with fuel injection.

    thank you in advance,

    -- benoit
  • jeep4everjeep4ever Member Posts: 5
    I have had the same problem on other vehicles, and it was the catalytic converter. Once the cells wear or clog, it will cause the engine to lose power on demand. I know it doesn't sound related, but I think you should listen to the mechanic.
    -Lee
  • benoitbenoit Member Posts: 2
    thank you !
  • fishgafishga Member Posts: 1
    I don't know if this works on the Grand Cherokee, but it works on Cherokees:
    Just give it a good pull - straight up. Took me a long time to figure this out!
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    That is correct. According to my repair manual "Grasp the handle and pull up sharply to remove the handle from the lever".
    Should have read the book before giving inaccurate information earlier.........
  • jeepgirl5jeepgirl5 Member Posts: 1
    My Jeep cherokee 1996 is not doing well in the heat. The water light comes on when its over 80 degrees out or I ran my air or drove for a while in the heat. I have had my thermostat and my radiator checked and they seem fine. As soon as this happens I run my heat and it cools a bit. I heard through the grape vine that some jeeps are made with a small fan that does not cool off the car and needs a special kit installed for this. Please help, it will be 90 degrees soon and need to fix it. Thanks
  • hopeitlastshopeitlasts Member Posts: 7
    Just wanted to say that I found out the only thing wrong with my Jeep was it needed a new crank shaft sensor. I really learned alot in this forum and knew what to ask the mechanic to check for. So I didn't have to use mechanic 1, who wanted to replace the computer or mechanic 2, who was 100% that it would not start by simply replacing the crank shaft sensor. I found a good mechanic who thinks I might know what I am talking about by the questions I asked. Thanks much.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    Excellent! I'm glad we were able to help on this.
    Having a little information goes a long way when dealing with some mechanics.
  • reddog4reddog4 Member Posts: 2
    I had a similar problem with my '95 GC. The positive battery cable connection had corroded (turned black) at the battery post. I replaced it with an aftermarket terminal. I still run my '95 and have had to replace the terminal periodically.
  • nine76lorinine76lori Member Posts: 1
    Hi Gallagher05, I also purchased a 2003 Jeep Liberty and it has been in the shop 7 times for rear brake noise, warped rotors, leaking axel, and a clunking noise when hitting the brakes backing up. I am experiencing what you went through. I have contacted a lawyer and starting the lemon law process. So far their response has been "no" since the problem is not life threatening so to speak. I am saddened because I really thought when I bought the Jeep Liberty that this would be the vehicle for the next ten years. I am scared what it will cost me once the warranty is up. I am considering filing a complaint as well with BBB and the State Attorney General. If we had a collective voice of Jeep Owners who have been treated this way, do you think it is possible to contact a radio or television venue like "7 on your side"? :lemon:
  • dmarkdmark Member Posts: 1
    I recently had similar problems with my 99 Laredo I 6 with occasional no start (nothing) but sometimes with flashing on and off ABS warning light and dancing gauges (even after the ignition was turned off). The connections and terminals seemed tight and clean so I took it to a mechanic (not from the dealership) who said there were no error messages about the brakes on the computer and that my 1 yr. battery was bad and unable to hold a charge. Then the battery dealership claimed the battery was fine but found a loose terminal connection. Apparently some one had over tightened the set screw for the battery connection and stripped it enough to have partial contact. Battery Guy then ground the terminal down slightly to allow the set screw to catch and have had no problems since (2 weeks now). So it appears that the charge to my Jeep was fine sometimes and allowed it to start or was compromised enough to confuse my sensors/computer or bad enough to keep it from even turning over because of a slightly loosened connection. Hope this helps.
    BTW I just want to mention that this is our first Jeep and has over 87,000 miles and we love it. We live in Northern Indiana with lots of ice and snow in the winter and has also been great for long trips to Miami during the holidays.
  • heatradioheatradio Member Posts: 1
    I was amazed to find the exact thing happen to my 95 JGC Laredo. I have 155k on it and it never gave me a bit of problem. Yesterday morning I went to start it and I found it does not have any spark. I called a few local dealerships and they of course tell me to bring it in so they can hook it up the the computer for diagnosis. I am curious to see what they found your problem was found to be as mine is more then likely the same thing. :confuse:
  • ruppyruppy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 GC Laredo with only 88,000 miles. Recently the Vehicle Information Center has started resetting itself (Like the Battery was disconnected), the power windows work intermittently and the security alarm system sets itself when the vehicle is turned off. I'm guessing that it is the PCM but am looking for other ideas before I spent $450 on one. Anyone out there with similar problems? Also, would a electronic diagnostic tester work for pinpointing this problem if it did have a bad PCM? Thanks
  • steve35steve35 Member Posts: 6
    It's likely that the heat from the rotor has rusted the rotor to the hub. There is no trick tool, just patience, a few careful raps from a well directed hammer and some WD - 40.Keep working on them, they'll come off.

    As for warping rotors, like so many cars these days, the rotors warp due to the calipers freezing to the slide pins. There seems to not be enough clearance in the pin holes and that's probably due to the caliper being improperly annealed during manufacture.Annealing during manufacture is supposed to reduce or eliminate heat - induced distortion in use.

    That is, as the caliper heats and cools during braking, stresses are introduced that distort the caliper just enough to keep it from following the rotor properly. The machined slide pin holes in the caliper cease to be straight as the heat stresses (distortions) build up. The rotor seizes to the slide pins causing the brake pads to stay in contact with the rotors, even after pedal presuure is released. The rotor stays hotter longer and over time the extra heat causes it to warp. If this does not seem plausible, ask an engine rebuilder if he has ever line bored the crank and cam journals on an engine block. Large pieces of machined cast iron CAN distort, if regularly heated(overheated) and cooled.

    I found that the rotors on my Jeep warped very quickly as well. Getting one rotor off was difficult so I used a hammer and a few carefully placed raps to dislodge it. I replaced the rotor, of course.

    Then on all four calipers I de burred the slide pin holes using a drill and a properly sized bit. I don't recall the size of the bit because I did the work 70,000 miles ago. That's right...the pads and rotors have lasted 70k miles! The right rotor has warped just a bit again but I will fix that soon when I do the next brake job. I was a bit more aggressive on re - machining the the left caliper slide pins holes and that's why that rotor hasn't warped.

    When you re assemble, be generous with the anti seize compound on the slide pins. Re lube every 5 -10 k miles.

    If you go for the real "fix" as recommended by Chrysler, replace the OEM calipers with the recommended Akebono calipers. The Akebono calipers don't seem to cause as much rotor warping. They are noted in a Techical Service Bulletin that every Jeep dealer should have in its records. This is not a recall item, even though it probably should be. At $125 per caliper plus installation, I took the re - machining route.

    If your are a bit faint of heart or if your idea of heavy work on the vehicle is checking the oil, have a good garage replace the calipers for you.
  • nicklnickl Member Posts: 1
    Hi Lee.....can you tell me where the outlet wiring is in an 02 gcl......My problem is, going up a hill it feels like it is not getting gas....I pull over and trun it off and restart it and it will run OK....I did replace the plugs but not the coil pack....or is this the fuel pump....Let me know please....thank you....Nick
    caneswin5@echoes.net :sick:
  • 95chkjpltd95chkjpltd Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have an issue with my 95 grand cherokee limited (v8, 5.2l). It only started recently, about a week or so ago. If it's been sitting for awhile, 6+hours, i have problem starting it up. It cranks for 8 seconds and i let it go, fear of draining the battery. I do this for couple times and it starts right up on the third try and it starts immediately subsequent times afterwards all day. I can hear the hum coming from the back when I put the car on start. The spark plugs look good and one mechanic I went to didn't seem to know what might be causing the problem unless they encountered the problem himself. But I can't leave the car with them for that long, since it is the only car I have.
    So anyone have any idea what might be causing the problem? Could it be the fuel pump? I've been seeing a lot of posts about CPS being the cause, could that be it in my case as well or maybe the coil? I just told them to replace the fuel filter for now. So if anyone can help me out, any help will be greatly appreciated.
  • jeep95jeep95 Member Posts: 1
    I have same problem on my jeep grand cherokee 95 since a month, I think the problem came from Daytime Running Light Module, but I don't know where located, the little blue light in my dash turn on all the time, I have to remove the fuse 30amp to turn off all lighting system when the car is park.
    Some body know where located that module , please help.

    Thank you
  • jeep4everjeep4ever Member Posts: 5
    This sounds like a bad catalytic converter. Happened to me too.
    -Lee
  • donealdoneal Member Posts: 1
    There is an unannounced recall on it, take your '05 JGC to your friendly neighborhood Jeep dealership and they will flash the prom. They did mine on the 3K service.
  • lfjklfjk Member Posts: 1
    My son purchased a 97 JGC v-6 auto from a private party. He said that the engine light was on, went to the dealer, told that the codes came up, "misfire / crankcase positioning sensor." :cry: He did the work himself, cap, rotor, plugs(champion as suggested) and wires. He also replaced the sensor. Said that we just needed to take it to the dealer and reset the codes. we did ..on the way home the light came on again. My mechanic put in a second, new sensor, cleared the codes, the light came back on. 3 hrs worth of diagnostics and the dealer still doesn't know what's wrong. He thought it was a cracked flywheel, but upon inspection, said that the flywheel was brand new. (Old owner had $2300. worth of tranny work at Ammco). Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank-you. larry
  • cgivenscgivens Member Posts: 5
    I have recently acquired a 1996 JGC and have the identical problem with the A/C draining into the car. The A/C shops and the dealer have the same story about removing the evaporater and BIG $$. I assume that this remedy will work on a 96 as well as a 95. Anyone thinks differently? Any other advice?
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    I can't find the original message you replied to but looking in my service manual there should be a drain hose coming out of the firewall on the passenger side of the vehicle right by the starter (just above and to the left).
    Take a piece of wire and run it up the hose to make sure it isn't blocked. If it is, that will cause water leakage inside the vehicle.
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