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Comments
Steve, Host
I went to autozone to get diagnostic and my alpha p codes were 463, 700, and 753. The first code referenced fuel level sending unit defective, check connector & wiring. Their book did not go up into the 700s. Can anyone help? One was the pcm has received a signal to turn on the malfunction indicator lamp from the transmission control system(refer to transmission repair manual. The other said the pcm has detected a short to ground, a short to battery, or an open circuit condition in the electrical circuit for shift solenoid "a". Please advise me..
Thanks :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
What does the dealer say? They should be able to hook it up and pull any DTCs to see what is happening.
Edit: Sorry, just checked out your other posts. It appears the dealer doesn't have a clue. How about trying a different dealer?
Steve, Host
I have a '98 that is lifted that will make a "creak" when I turn really sharp but I think that has more to do with the polyurethane bushings than anything else.
I'd take it in to a garage or have a knowledgeable friend take a look to see what they find. It may be nothing, it may be a problem.
By the way, I have over 168,000 miles on my '98 and she's still going strong.
Did you ever get your problem resolved? My friend just came from AAMCO, they gave him codes as well, told him he needed to have his transmission rebuilt for $3200, he's taking the jeep to Dealership for second opinion. His check engine light has come on a few times over the last few months, but goes off after a few hours...
thanks!
Your friend is smart for getting a second opinion.
Did the techs at AAMCO tell him what the codes were? That may point to why the MIL is coming on.
thanks
vonspreck
I looked at my jeep and I don't see how you can get to the latch except from outside the vehicle. Maybe you can get in there with a screwdriver or try to use what's left of the handle to get it to open.
I can't see any other way of doing it.
I bought by Jeep Grand Cherokee in Oct '04, and shortly after I noticed this. I thought it was nothing, but it continues.
When I'm on the highway, between 65-75MPH, I'll notice the Engine Revs suddenly drop by about 500RPM (from above 2K to below 2K). The vehicle seems quite sluggish and underpowered when this happens, and it doesn’t stop until I accelerate enough to upshift the transmission, or slow down to below around 60MPH. While it's in this RPM dip, the engine makes a noise like a low whine... It's difficult to describe. If the radio is on or the AC is on above medium, you won't hear it.
Recently it's been doing this more often, and I'm getting sick of it. I asked the dealer to take a look when I brought it in for regular maintenance, and they gave me some BS about the front bug deflector vibrating and making the noise. I usually cruise at around 68MPH on the highway, so this problem is a constant nuisance.
What can I Try/Check?
There are times when it ignores the the key fob unlock controller and stays set in the wrong driver mode.
Also, intermittantly, the set switch on the driver door does not operate to program the two driver positions, or the buttoms will work but in a haywire mode, ie you may press the set button only to have the seat change ot driver 1, then press the driver 1 button, only to have the seat change to driver 2 etc.
So basically the memory options are all over the place.
I have tried disconnecting the battery for 30 mins in the vain hope of the memory repowering into a stable condition.... to no avail.
Am now at a loss as to where to go (besides the dealer) as cannot identify if there is an intermittant connection problem or is the memory module (CA$ 349.00) defective.
Any suggestions please???
Thanks
I changed the thermostat. That did not solve the problem. I changed the water pump and that too did not solve the problem. I changed the rad and that did not solve the problem.
Recently I changed the head gasket but that too did not solve the problem.
I am driving around with it WITHOUT the thermostat and while it seems to be UNDERCOOLING- when I stop with the air-conditioning on, it starts to over heat, although not as quickly as before.
I am desperately seeking any advice as to WHAT could be the problem. Any advice appreciated.
HELP!!!!!
Could it be a problem with the PCM or maybe a solenoid? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Last thing-first. When I changed the pump there was a spring in the bottom hose and I left it there. But I will check to make sure the hose is not collapsing when it's hot.
I will also check to make sure there is nothing blocking the rad.
In regard to the "clogged A/C coil" located in front of the rad that might be the cause. First time I am hearing about it and so I will definitely check it out.
Thanx very much for the advice and help. I'll tell you the results.
Once open take some WD40 and spray the latch mechanism liberally. Pull and release the handle multiple times to work it in.
Spray some more WD40 in there and close the hatch. That should fix the problem.
It is your transmision sensor. Little black job. Shuts car down when it thinks trans is out of wack. I could put my car into neutral, coast then restart or pump gas to get by. Then it finaly went bad. Had symptoms of bad battery.
I am having the same problem and my dealer can't fix it. Jeep is sending someone out to look at it soon. In Methuen Mass. If you get yours fixed first I'll drive mine anywhere to get it fixed. I am close to thinking lemon law. More strength in numbers. Get a message to me I will back you. I am scared Jeep is going to say it is not bad enough or we never seen this before.
the fan clucth is attached to water pump pulley by a single large bolt. Ive tried the fan clutch removal tool , but water pump pulley just turns.
need to get a clue if any one has one left me borrow it LOL