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I have a 2005 Jeep grand Cherokee limited. I've been complaining for seven months about the drive train. May I ask what are the symptoms....what is yours doing? I've posted many times on this and other forums, and I am still driving it. It is making me crazy! Mine has been bucking and stuttering at constant speed of like 40 to 65 mph. Like the torque converter is locking and unlocking randomly.
jkram
What got me to take it in to the shop was the engine light coming on and it wouldn't go off. I had acclerating problems also, and when I made a hard stop I could feel something rolling (like a heavy barrel) and hitting (boom!). When I was riding in the car with the rental car guy (who I thought worked for Jeep) he said, "I've never heard them describe a car like that" and I said "what do you mean?" and he said "undriveable". I'm glad I went in when I did and not try to travel over the holiday weekend like I had planned.
Your year and mileage are about right for this to be suspect.
This is not a cheap fix, ~$900 for rebuilt unit with new VC
(per transfercases.com), so you may want to take it to a
shop that specializes in 4WD for a diagnosis first. If this
is the problem, you need to fix it soon or it will cause wear
on the other drivetrain/steering components, thus complicating
repair.
(The viscous coupler is what allows the front and rear wheels
to turn at different rates when you are making tight turns.)
Good Luck! Maybe I need to go by a GMC at the "employee discount"
Thanks, jkram
I'm fairly competent from a mechanical standpoint but I left that one up to the dealer. Mine was a '98 also.
07-002-05 HYDRAULIC RADIATOR COOLING FAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSTIC CHECK CHART AID
Date: 06/25/05
Model year(s): 2005
Description: The 5.7L hydraulic cooling fan is integral to the fan shroud and is located between the radiator and the engine.
The power steering pump supplies the hydraulic fluid and pressure to rotate the cooling fan blade, while the electrical part of the fan is controlled by the Front Control Module (FCM).
The hydraulic fan drive (motor) consists of the three major following components:
* Steering flow control valve
* Fan control valve
* Two stage G-rotor hydraulic drive
The hydraulic fan and drive is not serviceable, except for the fan motor solenoid. Therefore any failure of the fan blade, hydraulic fan drive (except solenoid) or fan shroud requires replacement of the fan module. Because the fan blade and hydraulic fan drive are matched and balanced as an assembly and servicing either separately would disrupt this balance.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to service the hydraulic cooling fan or fan drive separately, they are serviced as an assembly. Failure to do so may cause severe damage to the hydraulic cooling fan assembly.
Operation: The hydraulic radiator cooling fan used on the 5.7L gasoline and 3.0L diesel engines replaces both the electric fan and the engine driven mechanical fan. This provides 5.7L and 3.0L equipped vehicles with heavy trailer towing capability while at the same time reducing unnecessary power drain on both the engine and the vehicles electrical system.
Hydraulic fan strategy: The hydraulic radiator cooling fan is controlled by the Front Control Module (FCM). A Pulse With Modulated (PWM) signal from the FCM controls the fan speed. There are three inputs to the FCM that determine what percentage of fan speed is required by the vehicle. These inputs are:
* Engine Coolant Temperature
* Transmission Oil Temperature
* A/C System Pressure
By monitoring the desired operating parameters for these three inputs, the FCM can determine if cooling airflow is required. If airflow is required, the FCM will slowly speed up the fan until the parameter(s) are under control. Once the temperature or pressure is reduced to within operating parameters the fan will speed up, slow down, or hold its speed to maintain the temperature/pressure requirements.
NOTE: Even if the FCM is not requesting fan on operation, the fan blade will usually spin between 100 and 500 RPM when the vehicle is at idle.
Activating the hydraulic fan with the scan tool (starscan®): Under the Engine Systems test heading, there is a subheading. “Hydraulic fan solenoid test”, that has the selections, on/off. Activating the fan with the StarSCAN® will run the fan at 100% duty cycle, which will help troubleshoot any system problems, and also help with the hydraulic system deaeration procedure.
NOTE: Engine must be running to activate the fan with the StarSCAN®.
Radiator cooling fan hydraulic fluid path: Hydraulic fluid is pumped by the power steering pump though a high pressure delivery line to the fan drive motor. As fluid is diverted through one or both G-rotor stages, rotational motion is created as fluid moves from the high-pressure (inlet) side of the motor to the lower-pressure (high pressure outlet) side. Fluid exiting the drive motor is divided into two paths. In path one, fluid continues through a high pressure delivery line to the vehicle steering gear to provide steering assist. This fluid then exits the steering gear under low pressure and travels through a low pressure line to the power steering fluid cooler to be cooled before being returned back to the power steering fluid reservoir. In path two, excess fluid travels through a low pressure line back to the power steering pump fluid reservoir.
NOTE: There is a steering flow control valve located in the fan drive motor. This valve operates like the flow control valve found in the typical power steering pump. A failed pump and/or fan drive can produce contamination that may cause the steering flow control valve to stick.
This is extremely frustrating.
fsmith
If you know how to get the build date off the door sticker I would love to know the date. Mine was built on Nov.10, 2004. One of the first 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokees built. The Rockys are pretty recent.
Steve, Host
I replaced the fuel pump on my '98 when it started to take longer to turn over and I have never had a problem since.
Your options are to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and check it when you have that problem or just replace it.
I did it myself so it wasn't that expensive. It was a bit of a pain though since the fuel pump is in the tank so you have to drop the tank to get to it.
this problem seem to start after we had rain in ny here for a few nites
some 1 else here had that problem looking to find the light mod and the security mod the location
any help on this would be great
check all the door jams swithes they are ok
thanks
Bobby nyc
It should be fairly easy to get underneath the truck and look at the mounts. If you see any cracks in them, they need to be replaced.
Generally the '94 JGC that I have doesn't make any odd sounds until I slow down to turn into a driveway or parking lot. When I slow down I get a wrrrrr wrrrr wrrr sound from both the front and rear as I round the corner. As I straighten the JGC out the sound goes away. The same thing happens if I turn left. I also noticed a front end wheel-hopping sensation and reluctance by the JGC to turn sharply into a parking spot and it even happens when I reverse out of the parking place....the wrrr wrrr wrr sound almost sounds as if all the tires are rubbing the wheel wells at once. My tires are original so I know it is not that. The transfer case causes all this noise? :confuse:
Good luck!
At first I thought the system needed to be recharged (which still may be the case) but as I continued to troubleshoot, I found that the refridgerant line with the access port gets extremely cold when the AC is turned on so that tells me there is at least some charge left. But that is the only line that gets cold. There are two larger lines that look like they cycle to/from the compressor and they actually get hot as the engine continues to run. So here's the thing, the clutch (center part of the compressor) clicks and starts rotating (which I think is supposed to happen, right?) but then it kicks right back off. My understanding is that the clutch spinning is what actually cycles the freon, so if the clutch doesn't keep spinning it won't cycle the freon...right? Anyway, the clutch just keeps turning on and then back off...on for about 3 seconds, off for about 10 seconds. I live in Italy right now and the mechanics around here are extremely expensive (someone told me they paid 70 Euro (about $90) for an oil change, not to mention the language barrier scares me a little. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I really don't want to have to take this to a shop. Thanks.
My 2005 JGC has the Hemi, the Hemis and 4.7 engines share the same drive train components. So it does not suprise me. I want to hear from someone or anyone who has had a successful repair done. To make the bucking, stumbling, or stuttering go away. The 2004 and 2005 are totally different vehicles mechanically.
Net: don't trust the basic security systems for much.