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With 8k left before the warranty runs out, probably time to think about the Sequioa or new Expedition (Acura dealers are way too proud of the MDX)
Anyway - here's the deal - am I in a cult? Or just insane? I've read all the postings on the JGC. I LOVE this Jeep, but the crappy quality is killing me too. I am considering another Jeep - are the 2002s more reliable? Or should I just suck it up and let go of the nice affordable JGC luxuries I am used to? I hate the styling of the Pathfinder, but it's reliability seems higher. However, it doesn't have the super cool wheel mounted radio controls...I guess unless I am willing to have to go thru potential arbitration, I should smarten up and think of another SUV?
I own a '99 JGC Laredo and have been experiencing significantly more wind noise than normal. I noticed that the weather strip in the upper right-hand corner of the windshield doesn't overlap the way the other corner does. Has anyone else experienced this problem? My Jeep is still under warranty and I want this resolved before it expires and I thought if anyone else had this problem I could learn from their experiences.
Thanks!
First; I determined that despite all the problems, the Grand Cherokee was THE vehicle I wanted (looks, comfort, ride, utility, & power were all a perfect fit). My 1993 Jeep GC Laredo had only minor problems in the 7 years I owned it.
2) Even though my 2001 Jeep was under warranty, I did not want to play games with Daimler/Chrysler and waste time and money on arbitration and/or a lawyer to make my Jeep 'good'. It seems there is no middle ground, Jeeps are either good or bad. My 2001 GC was a clunker.
3) The dealer from which I purchased my 2001 Jeep pissed me off. I never went back. The five star dealer that serviced most of the problems last year didn't FIX the problems, even after I complained. I'll never go there again either. I'm going to a different 5 star dealer to service my current vehicle.
4) The technician who serviced my 2001 said some parts in the drive train were redesigned after the 1999 model year. Newer models, theoretically, should not experience as much 'gear whine' now. There will always be SOME noise because of the all-time 4 wheel drive. Also, the computer that controls the remote keyless entry was redesigned last year(2001). On my truck, the alarm wouldn't arm and the remote didn't unlock the doors in cold weather. The drivers seat and both side mirrors always moved when I used the remote, even after the fix. I suspect a programming error or a short somewhere that were never found.
4) Finally, the 7 yr/100k power train warranty, and cheap financing reduced my losses on a one year old trade-in.
So, I purchased a 2002 Jeep GC Ltd. It's due for the first oil change next week. So far, no problems. I like my Jeep. I'm hoping for 2 'good' Jeeps out of 3.
Have been unable to get CD player with JGC Lmt to work; has been replaced with refurbished player that lasts a couple of times and then quits. Dealer says it is policy to replace with refurbished units and will not put in new one. You would think it would be cheaper just to replace with new unit than continuing to repair after repair and causing issues with customer.
Can't get any support from Customer Service, what a waste of time; now pursueing Arbitration or Lemon Law approach but don't know how that will work.
Anyone have similar problems with CD player?
Second, the "misfire" problem on the 1997 sounds like what I had with my (former) 1996 - the cause turned out to be bad (weak) valve springs. This is a known problem in the pre-1997 (and some early 1997) Jeeps with the 4.0-liter engine. Mine went bad at 60,000 miles, so no warranty coverage. New valve springs went in (at the dealer - see below) and it ran better than new.
Next, the various transmission problems are covered by a few Technical Service Bulletins issued by Chrysler (these are not necessarily "recall" items, nor should they be). Most of the glitches were ironed out by the mid-2000 production year. Most 2001's that I know of are running along without problems of any kind, and the 2002's are even better.
The Jeeps are the most capable off-road vehicle in their class (under $60,000), but (as with most such vehicles) there have been a few problems along the way, all of which can be fixed by the right dealership or by doing it yourself; I do about half of my Jeep work myself. The only dealer that I do business with (Patrick - Rochester, NY / www.patrickautodeals.com) is almost 100 miles away, but well worth the trip. Their service people are top shelf, and they do it right the first time. Their sales people are not obnoxious, either.
And has anyone else experienced a screeching sound from the power door lock mechanism?
BTW, the mileage on my I-6 sucks big time (16-17 at best). V8's do better than I do, with more power.
Whenever I drive up-hill, the air (either hot/cold) goes from blowing out the vents to blowing out the defroster vents. Everytime I take the vehicle in, I tell the dealer to fix it, still a problem. You freeze in the winter and sweat during the summer.
The other problem is on the passenger side. Air comes through the floorboard and the passenger literally freezes (in the winter).
One other problem is the annoying loud leaking air coming through the windows. Is there a fix for this? The dealer told me it was the rack on top of the vehicle making this noise, do they think I really believe that? Not.
I was wondering if anyone else is experiencing any of these problems. If so, please let me know if there is a fix, my warranty is almost up and I can't see owning a vehicle with this problem.
Dealer was great, they replaced the ignition, dropped the fuel tank and replaced the quad-ring set on the fuel system, replaced both F&R driveshafts, reprogrammed the transmission and engine control computers and road tested the truck. Two days later and it is 100% better! They even washed and dried the car!
I'm happy to have the Jeep running as it should but wary of it getting out of warranty. The choice is either to take a bath and get rid of it before the 36k mark and warranty expiration or ante up $1500 for the peace of mind of extended warranty.
By the way, from an off-road perspective, the Jeep is great, but my Tahoe, Suburban and Expedition all went the same places with fewer problems and headaches.
You might also want to check some of the online services (edmunds tmv, kbb, nadaguides, blackbook on cars.com) regarding the selling price. 7500 for an 8 (soon to be 9) yo vehicle with 126K miles seems steep.
I have gotten rid of my 2000 JGC limited v8, qd almost a year ago. Bit I often turn back to this discussion group to see if DC have improved their reliability. I have gone through the arbitration. It is a total waste of time. It took three month to get a final answer from DC--they did not want to buy back my Jeep. It took little over three weeks with a lawyer, and the jeep was bought back. Do not waste your time with arbitration. It is a process that will get your hopes up, waste your time, and at the end very few people get satisfactory results. I still see 2002 JGC have the same problems: memory settings, alarm control problems, gear whine, starting problems, rotor problems, etc. Great vehicle if you don't mind monthly dealer visits and costly repairs down the line.
DC doesn't determine whether your vehicle qualifies as a lemon. Your state does. DC has to abide by your state law. Don't let them BS or intimidate you. Sure, they'll do that to you. What do they have to lose? What does that cost them? 90% of the people they do this to go away without a whimper or fight. Mighty successful tactics, huh?
I'll bet a month's pay right now that if you pursue your state lemon law against them, and they see you're absolutely serious about this, they'll eventually settle and it'll never see the inside of a courtroom. You don't need a lawyer to do this either.
Yes, most state laws require that you go through DC's arbitration program first before you can use the lemon law. The arbitrator's decision is only binding on DC, not you. If you don't like the decision, then you can use the lemon law.
Before you go into arbitration, check with your state to see if DC's arbitration program is certified for use in your state. If it's not, you don't have to waste your time with it. WI, FL and CT are three states that come to mind that do not certify DC's program. There may be others that don't. Check on this.
Be aware that DC uses the National Center for Dispute Settlement (NCDS) based in TX. Also be aware that DC pays NCDS to handle arbitration as well as vehicle buyback and replacement. Yes, they are very arrogant people to deal with.
Part of the pay incentive NCDS has is to deny the majority of claims made against DC's vehicles. The more money they save DC from having to pay out in settlements, the more money that goes into NCDS's pocketbook. Think about that... do you really feel that you are getting fair, unbiased arbitration when this is how NCDS gets payed? They work for DC, not you.
Again, you have a very powerful law to back you up. Learn it, use it like I did and win. For an investment of a couple hours of your time to assemble copies of your repair orders outlining the problems, write the lemon notification letter to DC and spent $2.76 to send it by certified mail, what do you possibly have to lose? It worked perfectly for me and it should for you too.
Venting about it here and doing nothing more doesn't get the vehicle fixed or get you out from underneath it. And the problem sure isn't going to go away on its own, now is it?
Good luck to all of you!
Any similar problem and solution?
Yes, the dealers have been rebuilding quite a few differentials on the 99-00's. This was due more to grinding and howling noises than vibration problems. At the very least, ask them to back up their claim with a TSB instead of a WAG.
You have a classic harmonic vibration problem. Especially when you don't notice a vibration at any time other than in a specific speed range (in your case, between 65-75mph). Unfortunately, alot of repairs are made by trial and error. Before tearing apart and rebuilding the front differential, there are some simpler things you can have checked first...
The place to start would be to have someone thoroughly check all U-joints on both drive shafts. Have them pay particular attention to the U-joint mounting clamps to ensure that they are holding the U-joints in proper position in the differential yokes. Even a slight shift that wouldn't be noticed on cursory inspection can create an unbelievable amont of vibration. This is not easy to spot and you really have to be looking for this. It's as important as examining the U-joint itself.
DC did have a TSB for this on the 98-99's and it wouldn't surprise me if that problem got carried into at least the early 00 model year. Have them examine the drive shafts at this time also. Sometimes, simply unbolting the drive shaft from the differential yoke, rotating it 180 degrees and bolting it back up will cure a problem like this.
If you can eliminate drive shafts and U-joints as the problem, the next thing to look at would be your tires. You didn't state how many miles you have on them. Even a fairly new tire can go bad. You may have one or more tires that have had a belt shift and become out of round. Start with having them rebalanced by a competent mechanic and even having them rotated. If the dealer has some other mounted tires they can swap with yours and test drive, that's one really quick way to rule out a tire problem.
I had your exact same problem on a 98 JGC. Same conditions made it appear and disappear, and it was in the exact speed range as yours. The vibration was so bad on mine, it felt like the vehicle was going to shake itself apart. Even though my dealer tried every trick in the book, they weren't able to track the problem down. My 98 went back under the lemon law.
I'm currently driving a 99 JGC. Recently, I had the tires rotated. From the day I had that done, I'm now experiencing some serious vibration on deceleration from 55 to 45mph. Kind of the reverse of your problem. It only occurs in that speed range when coasting. If I stop decelerating (any application of power) it instantly disappears. In my case, what else could it be other than a 43K mile bad tire? So don't rule out your tires.
During the above time, I did find out that Jeep had several drivetrain noise and vibration problems as part of my dealer's attempt to locate and fix the problem on my 98. They have TSB's for the rear U-joint mounting brackets, the rear differential yoke/pinion shaft, and bad slip joints in their drive shafts. These problems weren't just on the old 98 body style, they were present on the new 99's and carried over at least part way into the 00 model year. Just go back and read some of the older posts... you'll see what I mean.
Just bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. Love it so far.
However, when its cold the engine kind of "jumps" into gere when
first starting off. This goes away as soon as the engine is warm.
Anyone have a similar problem or know what might be causing this?
Thanks.
Have the same problem on new 2002 GC Limited. The
dealer and factory rep. both state 'normal'. I will be sending letter to Chrysler soon.
This is my second Grand Cherokee. Had '95 Laredo
4x4 with V8. Great car but lots of mechanical
problems, especially after 50,000 miles. Glad I had the best extended warranty offered by factory, as it paid for itself many times over.
ANYONE ELSE HAVING SAME PROBLEM?? LOUD WIND NOISE FROM FRONT WINDOWS AT FREEWAY SPEEDS.
After owning two Toyotas, I timidly decided to join the SUV craze and purchase a JGC '01. It was brand new however, it was not long before the problems made me regret this purchase. In less that two years I have had: rotors replaced, transmission seal replaced, four new tires, steering colum replaced, and to top it off I recently heard the engines are cathching afire!!!! In addition, the Jeep service dealer's didn't seem to have much sympathy with problems either. It was not fun having to pay several times for labor, bumming rides to work, and making monthly visits to the so called "five star" jeep eagle dealer. The sad part too is that I too was like all of these other "pitiful" postings thinking that these problems were the "norm" or that they would "get better." Please wake up guys, they don't!! As long as we remain complacent about these problems, Chrysler will never bring their products up to decent stndards. They will just keep screwing us royally!! In conclusion, I begged the Toyota dealer to help me and they made it possible to jump into a new '02 Camry. What a difference!! on a closing note, American Car Company's are driven by financial greed, made so that you constantly buy a new American made lemon every four years. Foreign made car company's (Toyota & Honda) seek to earn your loyalty with respect and reliability. Please, Please, get rid of your headache. You will be thankful in the long run.
I just took delivery of an 02 JGC Ltd... my fourth JGC. They aren't perfect (no vehicle is) but I love 'em anyway. Overall, they have been very reliable for me even though I had one (a 98) go back under the lemon law.
Foreign car manufacturer's are driven by the same "financial greed" as American car manufacturer's... don't fool yourself into thinking otherwise. Besides, it's kind of hard to call Toyota and Honda "foreign cars" since they've been built in the good 'ol USA for several years already. I don't care what make and model vehicle you're talking about... you roll the dice every time you purchase one. It's the same thing with dealers too.
SO - STAY AWAY FROM ANY CARMAX DEALERSHIPS!!!
Wish I had driven the 45 miles to the dealership I purchased the Jeep from after dealing with CarMax.
But for everyone who purchases a Jeep and doesn't plan on using it offroad ... if you want it to act like a Honda (buy a Honda) ... Even though I have not gotten to go Off-Roading in a while and a lot of my 106k has been in traffic ... my only replacement/repair that would not be considered "normal wear" is an Oxygen sensor ... and even those go bad on a Honda, Acura or Lexus.
So would I buy another Jeep ... Yes ... You can't beat a Jeep Off-Road ! ... They do good in snow as well with a good set of tire's.
What am I buying next ... honestly thinking about a S2000 (Honda) ... I have CBR 900RR and like Honda as well --- and wouldn't mind having a convertable.
BUT - I am keeping my JGC also !!!
Plan to still have it when it turns 200k maybe even 300k (it will likely out live me)