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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • diane7diane7 Member Posts: 6
    Well, the Jeep is still in the shop. They are gonna do a fuel system cleaning, throttle body, fuel injection. While they were doing that the fuel line broke. They said they are gonna pay because they did it. It should be ready by Tuesday. It'll take that long because the part is not in. PLUS, they said they had it running with the a/c on and it was fine. So, I'm all ready for on Tuesday after I pick it up if it does the same thing I will turn right around, get one of the techs and take him for a ride and show him exactly what it is doing.
  • gwalkergwalker Member Posts: 1
    My Jeep has a problem with the chime/buzzer. There are times when I pull out my key the buzzer comes on and will not shut off until I put the key back in or un hook the battery cable. The lights are off so this should not be doing it. Could someone tell me which module is the chime/buzzer module.
  • azjgcazjgc Member Posts: 1
    Looking for help on 05 5.7 Liter JGC. When I drive at altitude (7000-8000ft) a gasoline/natural gas type smell floods the passenger compartment each time I turn off engine. Seems to emanate from A/C vents. Smell dissipates quickly but it's very unnerving. No problems at home elevation (1700ft), dealer can't find any problems, no codes, pressure tested fueling system, no exhaust leaks, etc. Short of taking mechanic along on vacation I can't duplicate for them. Any ideas? Am wondering if it's a function of cylinder deactivation system. Also, anyone find a way to improve the sound system in this car? My 97 JGC had far better fidelity.
  • 93svt93svt Member Posts: 1
    canks no start
    no fuel press.
    gas gauge reads empty but has some fuel
    codes? dont know how to manualy check
    no power to injectors
    fuel pump does not kick over but does work
    so could it be crank sensor ,electrical , fact alarm,computer
    your feedback would greatly be appreciated
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    If there is a difference in wind noise from one vehicle to the next, odds are pretty good it has to do with the spacing of the roof rack crossbars.
    There is an optimum spacing for them to prevent noise and some vehicles will leave the dealership with them spaced too close together and stay that way for the life of the vehicle.
  • jgc96jgc96 Member Posts: 4
    Hello,

    I have a 96 JGC w/126k, lately it has been hesitating while i am driving. :mad: It feels as though the car wants to cut out. My speed decreases when this occurs. I have been to two mechanics neither found a problem (plus the car didn't do what i am experiencing while they had it) I have no indicator lights to identify that there is a problem. I see that quite a few JGC owners do experience similar scenarios such as mines but i haven't gotten a grasp on what cause the hesitation. If you have any ideas or suggestion please let me know..... :confuse:
  • searaymosearaymo Member Posts: 6
    I don't know whether you had the problem solved yet, But my daughters Blower Motor stopped also. Put in for repair at DarCars Marlow Heights, MD and was charged $349.00 to replace a short wire harness and the motor relay, all which can be done by anyone with little experiance. The parts can be purchased for less than $100.00. Items are just under the Glove Box. Do it yourself, Don't get ripped-off by the dealer.
  • cgerdincgerdin Member Posts: 1
    I am experiencing the exact same problem with my 2000 jgc. I went threw all of the fuses found that one was shot but that was it. Have you figured out what is the cause yet? please write back if you have. :confuse:
  • jgc96jgc96 Member Posts: 4
    Hello,

    I have a 96 JGC w/126k, lately it has been hesitating while i am driving :mad: . It feels as though the car wants to cut out. My speed decreases when this occurs. I have been to two mechanics neither found a problem (plus the car didn't do what i am experiencing while they had it) I have no indicator lights to identify that there is a problem. I see that quite a few JGC owners do experience similar scenarios such as mines but i haven't gotten a grasp on what causes the hesitation. If you have any ideas or suggestion please let me know..... :confuse:
  • gr8fldave1gr8fldave1 Member Posts: 1
    So I need a new transmission and radiator for my 96 4.0 6-Cyl Grand Cherokee Laredo.

    The guy is quoting me $2,100 for a new transmission, $700 for new radiator and hoses, and labor brings the whole thing to $3,800. Does this seem s abit steep?
  • psternpstern Member Posts: 1
    My wifes fan (1999 Grand Cherokee Ltd) just quit also. I ran power directly to the fan and it does work so I suspect from what's in my Haynes manual that it's the blower motor resistor. Problem is my shop manual covers years 1993 - 2000 and the illustration for the
    blower fan doesn't match the one in our Jeep.

    Do you by any chance know how to identify the blower motor resistor? I really hate to remove the wrong part.

    Thanks,

    Peter
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    Tranny sounds like a rebuilt for $2,100.
    I paid $250 (?) for a radiator but I changed it myself. It can be a messy job. I think I'd get a second opinion if you can.
  • searaymosearaymo Member Posts: 6
    The answer to your question is a BIG YES. I can't for the likes of me see why Chrysler doesn't acknowledge they have a larger problem on their hands instead of not recognizing this. For one they have a serious problem with their tail lights. I'll bet you have seen many Jeep GCL with one or the other tail lights out. Cause, moisture getting in on the circuit wafer board causing corrosion, I simple found a piece of thin wire hammered it flat and glue it over the damaged area and it hasn't stopped working yet, been seven months now.
    The blower problem is two fold. If you get no blowing from the vents/motor then its the resistor located in clear view when looking up at the motor from under the glove box. If you just get blowing air from just one side of the dual set-up then its the Blend Box $980.00 without warranty/$175.00 with warranty.
  • swartwoodswartwood Member Posts: 1
    Did your problem get solved? I have the same problem. I had the vehicle tested at the dealership, it showed crank sensor but I have a friend with a 94 Jeep grand cherokee, he has replaced the sensor and the problem continues.

    Please let me know how you have made out.
  • searaymosearaymo Member Posts: 6
    Well believe it or not,after testing the Battery and charging the battery for three hours, I came to the conclusion the battery was reading 13.5 volts on my tester but I didn't get the ample amps necessary from the battery. Replaced the Mopar battery with a 1000cold cranking 850 cranking amp battery and she starts everytime. No more gauges gone crazy, power windows, locks; everything works as normal.

    Go figure...
  • fubzyfubzy Member Posts: 3
    I love my Jeep. I have had it for about 6 months now and it has treated me well. I love the power and its abilites off-road. I was wondering if anyone has any information on what I may expect in the future. I am also planning on installing the following : Headers, Exhaust, Cold Air Intake, and a Power Chip to help improve it performance and sound. Does anyone have any info on this as well? Please help a concerned Jeep Owner. I want the best for my Jeep?
  • milo4milo4 Member Posts: 5
    I just bought a 2005 JGC with a 3.7 liter and after less than a week (and under 500 miles) I began to have a a bucking feeling in the transmission when I cruised over 45 mph. The dealer told me that there was water in the transmission. They also said that Chrysler has a posting about this problem. They are being told by Chrysler to change the fluid and flush three times, put a permanent sealer on the base of the tranny dip stick tube, and upgrade the software. The dealer is being great and is working to fix the issue. Now, I've seen similar postings with unhappy endings but has anyone had this same issue and then had it fixed successfully? Does anyone know what could be causing this problem?
  • milo4milo4 Member Posts: 5
    I just posted about my same issue but unfortunately it's my first trip to the mechanic. What exactly did they say allowed the water to get in?
  • dthoenendthoenen Member Posts: 1
    My 2004 JGC leaks dust around all doors and the hatch and has since day 1. Dust even gets into back CD changer. I complained to the dealer I bought it from (paid cash in full) but they blew me off and have never fixed problem. I live on gravel road and Jeep's claim to fame is off road. Fine, but I don't want road inside my car. Service manager asked if I leave windows down and sunroof open. Duh, I'm not stupid. Love everything but dusting daily. Anybody else have this problem?
  • joepal55joepal55 Member Posts: 1
    whats going on,
    For the past three weeks my JGC will cut out when im in park, idle, or driving down the highway. I have taken it to the dealer three times. The first time they changed the idle motor, second time they said the part might have been defective so they changed it again, third time well...you see where this is going. The check engine light isnot on and according to the jeeps computer there is nothing wrong. the jeep cuts out 1 maybe two times everytime i drive it. Now it just sits in my driveway. I need someones help because nobody has any idea WHATS WRONG.
    thankx guys
  • jdcimtsjdcimts Member Posts: 3
    Can anyone tell me what's wrong when the ac unit blows warm/hot air? There is freon in the unit. Its a 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Any response is appreciated.
    Thanks. I asked this question on #1704. I'm new to the forum, sorry if I'm not suppose to ask again. I just want to have an idea of what's wrong when I take it to the dealership so I won't be jipped.
  • dli1dli1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello Forum, I thank you for the opportunity to be a part of the forum and discuss the pros and cons of the JGC family. I purchased my 1994 JGC Laredo I-6 in 1999 with 150k miles from a one owner business man, highway miles. I replaced all brakes, rotors, drums, front cv joints were shot, exhaust manifold was cracked, tranny fluid/filter, and A/C has leak and soon after replaced fuel pump. To top it all off it was a salvaged title due to a collision with a bovine with 2-3K on it/8k damage. I purchased for 5k. You may be asking yourself what I was thinking?? The engine now has 235K and purrs/ticks like a JBC I-6 but always, always starts. I replaced the fuel pump at about 225K. The biggest issue(s)/concern i've had is the ABS brakes, they are oversensitive when breaking on rough surfaces, which I think is a deeper a.k.a. more expensive issue. I have also replaced the front cv joints on driver and passenger side twice in 5yrs, seems odd...The tranny is getting very loose, especially when cold in the winter and after sitting for long pds in warm weather. I have great praises for my 94', but it shows acute signs of salvage city. My dilemma is to continue with JGC considering their recent problems or go with a different SUV that has been brought up in a different discussion (Acura MDX, Toyota 4Runner). I am partial to the 1994 JGC due to good consumer report reviews and just don't care for the 2005 redesign, also much stiffer ride/suspension. As you can see, I have been "lucky" with my JGC and hesitate to go with another make, any clarification would be helpful. Sorry for the length, beginners high!!
  • mtelseymtelsey Member Posts: 10
    yes, had the same issue. i posted previously about this issue. the water is coming from the a/c drainage, right onto the dip stick. the old way the seal was, the water was allowed to "pool" on it, and therefore have time to leak into the fluid through the seal. the new seal they put on to correct it, is supposed to make the water just cascade over so no pooling happens. mine is in the shop a second time, after the initial time the tranny had already been compromised. chrysler told them to flush it out again, and drive. the mechanic did that, took it home w/ him, and he told me it made it worse. became a violent vibrating no matter what speed he was going, even afraid he wouldn't make it back to the dealership. so they have to rebuild the transmission. chrysler won't let them put a new one in, unless 70% or more is damaged, if less, has to be rebuilt. has been in the shop now over a week for that. the dealer has been awesome to me, gave me 2 free rental cars and 2 free full tanks of gas for my trouble. and they are working diligently to correct it once and for all. i am really hoping this last attempt will be my last of this issue.
  • drob76drob76 Member Posts: 1
    hi,
    i have an 05 w/ the same engine, now w/ 7600 miles. I want to find out if we are talking about the same thing....my engine seems to cut out when i go to gas it at cruising speeds, taking foot off accelerator and then back on to accelerate. Also, I notice occasionally a surging of the engine, frequent jerks of it trying to accelerate. I have had it to the dealership once for the problem, they said they reset the computer and found not problems (of course). I have been thinking of taking it back again for a second time, but hadn't talked to anyone w/ GC's. Please let me know if you can. Thanks

    -Doug
  • milo4milo4 Member Posts: 5
    I was having more of a vibration, like when you're in a high gear and reducing speed but don't down shift. A rumbling bucking of sorts. If you can take it to another dealer I would. Have them check for the items I listed previously. Let us know the outcome.
  • milo4milo4 Member Posts: 5
    Did your mechanic mention trying to redirect the drainage? How many miles did you have again?
  • mtelseymtelsey Member Posts: 10
    i took it in at about 11000. i bought it w/ 8600 on it already. i also had all of the jerking juttering, everything that was mentioned by drob76. also another sign, one of the first ones i noticed, is that when you would go from say park to drive, there would be a hesitation like it was waiting to go into drive from neutral. no redirecting the drainage, answer was to seal the entrance better. that problem is fixed, no water can get in the transmission now, but it was compromised from it having the water in there to begin w/. talked to the mechanic today, they still haven't been able to get it fixed. chrysler said to replace torque converter (which i had previously read on this forum and told them that is what chrysler was saying to do before any tranny work would be done), they did, problem still exists. they are going to find out today what chrysler wants them to do next. drob76, yes take it to a dealer that will check your tranny fluid, or check it yourself. it is supposed to be a sparkly red color, but w/ water in it, looks strawberry (milky). if it is, that seal needs to be put on. there is a tsb out on it also, tell them to call district maintanence manager for chrysler and ask, if they do not have one in their system yet (was in my case). after that, keep a very close eye, the transmission is compromised from the water being in there, and if juttering and vibrating persists, take it back, and tell them everything you have read on this forum, (i did, and they have kept it to make sure it gets fixed instead of doing what chrysler says, and giving it back w/out making sure the problem is gone). by the way, mine is a v6 3.7L laredo. good luck, i hope mine is fixed soon...
  • jkncik23jkncik23 Member Posts: 2
    I have 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it makes noise when i go to turn into a parking stall, but the jeep has to be driven for about 20 minutes in order for the noise to happen. When i go and try to turn it to park i'll turn the wheel and it sounds like my tires are rubbing really bad, but thats not the case my tires are just fine, and also it seems that my jeep slows down a little. I had a jeep tech. look at it and he said it was my front drive line going from diff to my transfer case. So i got that replaced and it still does it, The tech said when it heats up and then i turn it puts pressure on the drive line.
    So if anybody can please help me, it just does it when it's been driving for about 20 minutes, and it sounds like somthings popping or rubbing.
    Thanks
    Jknick23
  • jkncik23jkncik23 Member Posts: 2
    I guess i should'nt say rubbing and say it's popping. but not on just any turn it has to be a sharp turn like into a parking slot.
  • jsmith6jsmith6 Member Posts: 2
    Our 2003 is having the same problem. It began this March with the heat. It blows but does not get hot. Now (of course) in the summer the air blows but does not get cold. If I reach over and turn the hot cold switch and force it further, it will get cold. But it doesn't work for long. I have been fighting with our dealer since March to get it fixed. They say there is nothing wrong with it. And of course they always want to charge me to check it out again. I am taking it to a different dealer this week. Over the phone they say it may be the "crossover switch" whatever that is. When it does get figured out, I will have to pay to have it fixed because I am over my 36000 miles even though it is only 2 years old.
    I also got into the car at the store yesterday to find that my passenger window wont roll up. I have been told this will be another $365.00 to fix. And then as always, my check engine light is on again!!!! This happens about every 3 months. I will NEVER buy another Chrysler product in my life and I sure hope that people are reading these type of sites to get this info before they buy. I wish I had!!!!!
    I will let you know what the new dealer charges me to fix the air and what they state is the problem.
  • shanoshano Member Posts: 4
    Living in Australia just brought a 96 jeep limited for wife private sale. Over heating within ten minutes of starting. Flushed radiator serveral times renewed coolant replaced thermostat and radiator top.Top radiator hose very hot to touch bottom hose cold.heater blowing room temperatur any advice would be appreicated as costs for parts and service very expensive compared to states?

    shano
  • shanoshano Member Posts: 4
    just join the forum living in australia did you find the problem to your overheating? As i HAVE JUST BROUGHT A 96 JEEP which is doing the same overheating in ten minutes top rad hose hot cap not heater just blowning warm air
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    If your top hose and radiator cap are hot and the bottom hose is cold you are not getting any circulation of the coolant. First I would try running it without the thermostat to see if that makes a difference. Sometimes a new thermostat can be bad. While doing this check the lower hose while the Jeep is running to be sure the lower hose has not collapsed from the suction of the water pump. If the hose seems OK and the Jeep still over heats, it is likely that your water pump is bad. Good luck!
  • shanoshano Member Posts: 4
    thermostat is working fine and bottom hose has not collaped.When flushing system water flowed through all pipes fine.Back flushed radiator as well water flowing there okay. Silly question before i even look where is the water pump located?the top hose while very hot the rad cap is okay to touch and there is pressure in the system can still touch the water in side the radiator but not the top hose thats the differance inheat. thanks for the tips
  • dreeddreed Member Posts: 1
    My '95 Grand Cherokee has been at the dealer for a week trying to solve the same problem. it is intermitent so it may happen once every 10 times behind the wheel. the Dealer says they can't find a cause, but the vehicle is safe to drive ( the beeping is driving me crazy!).

    DR
  • toppenishtomtoppenishtom Member Posts: 1
    My 93 Jeep Gr Ch 4.0l has similar problem & symptoms.
    Engine cranks, but will not start.
    However particularily accute when engine is warm, will not start.
    Good spark.
    I have noticed when in the no start failure mode the Red "Check Engine" is extinguished at first and subseqent ignition key cycles.
    When operation is normal & Jeep starts the Red "Check Engine" light is illuminated at first key cycle and I can hear the fuel pump energized & running; then Check Eng light goes out and engine continues to run normally.
    I wonder if there a failure code stored in the ECM due to initial lack of Ch Eng light?

    I've also installed a fuel pressure gage on the fuel rail during normal operation & failure mode. Sure enough, when the engine dies or does not start fuel pressure is low ~0-10psi. Normal running psi ~38-44.

    Seems like Fuel Pump is OK. Either power or ground @ fuel pump is lost, or a sensor /computer signal that enables the computer & fuel pump to energize is lost.

    I'll replace the Crank Sensor and report results.
    Appreciate your feed back.
    ToppenishTom
  • cstucstu Member Posts: 3
    My son slamed the drivers side of our Jeep GC Lim and we had the same problem with the window. The final cost was around $365. The problem was not the elec moter, which was fine, it was the wire that pulled the window up and down. a "very" small piece of plastic broke off and the entire thing had to be replaced...

    Now.. I went to turn on my air and the blower just quick....It appears that I have some elec problems because my wife said this morning that she seen the lights flash on and off by themselves... I have no idea what this could be
  • cstucstu Member Posts: 3
    My 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee's blower just quit... I got in the car and turned on the air and the blower started up and then stopped. My wife also informed me that this morning as she was getting ready for work that she looked outside and the lights were blinking on and off. The air is cold and I can hear it trying to click in, the blower,.

    Are there any suggestions, besides taking it to the dealer....

    Thanks..
  • page2page2 Member Posts: 2
    I too have a 2005 Jeep GCL which I purchased in February 05. Since that day, It has left me many times. I drive it to work and it is fine. I come out of work and the vehicle is totally dead - only dash lights reading"Transmission temperature too high" It has been sitting for 9 hours. Then all the letters that tell you what gear you are in have squares around them and the check engine lights comes on. After several hours, sometimes it will start up but it is still confused as to which gear it is in. I started to back up and it threw itself into park/neutral gear. Thought I had hit something behind me. Looking at the shifter, it was in reverse but you could rev the engin and you sure weren't in reverse. After I finally got it to go into drive, the wouldn't come out of first gear. This is the 3rd time it has done it and the computer/modules/etc. have been replaced and it left me again last night. My Jeep dealer WILL NOT give a loaner either and the bad part for me is that the only rental car agency in town closes at 5:30. So...when this junker decides not to run, I can't even get a rental car. I was stuck last evening for almost 3 hours trying to get a ride home which is 30 miles north of where I work. I was told they don't know what else to do with this thing. I too have AC issues. Mine is fine when it is on speed 1 but if you bump it up (I live in Florida and it has been an extremely hot summer), 2,3&4 sound like a huge wind tunnel and it sounds like it is whistling dixie. I have complained and I keep getting they can't duplicate the problem. I keep telling them not to run the thing on the low speed but I am at the point that I am sick of the struggle. Don't let anyone tell you its the dealership as I have called others in the area and no one gives out a rental. I am in the process of Lemon Lawing this junker. Wish me luck!
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    Water flow is from top to bottom of the radiator so I would expect the top hose to get hot even without circulation. The water pump is bolted to the front of the engine about half way down. The lower hose is connected to it and the drive belt goes around a pullet on the front of it (where the fan is attached). It sounds like you have cleared all other possible causes.
  • francogfrancog Member Posts: 2
    Our JGC is a Laredo, so it isn't just Limiteds. I've talked to a number of mechanics and they all agree. The entire transmission has been compromised and should have been replaced, but all we got was a torque converter from another Jeep sitting on the lot (we'd still not have our vehicle if we were waiting on the back ordered part). Now we're driving our brand new car not sure if it's right. It still makes strange noises and doesn't always seem to shift smoothly.

    Sure wish we'd gone with a Ford or GM vehicle, especially since now that we've had the problem we've begun to hear all about Chrysler's quality control issues.
  • ichellebereelichellebereel Member Posts: 1
    My dad has an 2003 jeep cherokee with no manual. The part time has came on and don't understand what this mean. Please give me information on this and the affects of driving.

    Thank you
  • jsore13194jsore13194 Member Posts: 4
    My 2000 GC has done the identical thing. First it was about 2 months ago one night. Ironically, the next morning it was fine, but I took it to the mechanic (not Jeep dealer) and they ran every electrical test they could and could find nothing wrong. Ran ok until this morning, and then, the same problem as you've described. :lemon:
    I had a new battery installed only about 9 months ago. Judging the the emails describing this similar problem, and no single clear solution, I intend to sell this turkey as soon as I can get it running again. I bought it new and it's been the most troublesome, unreliable car I've ever owned.
  • mtelseymtelsey Member Posts: 10
    i have a 2005 laredo also. mine is in the shop, they replaced the torque converter, but did not fix the issue. the mechanics did not just return the vehicle back to me, they will not bandaid the situation and pass it back to me. they are doing everything chrysler will allow them to do, next being rebuilding the transmission. if less than 70% is damaged, they have to rebuild, if more they can put a new one in. if you are still having issues, i would take it right back. and if they don't want to do anything (i don't see why any wouldn't, since they are guaranteed payment from chrysler cuz of warranty) i would take it to a different dealer until someone wants to do the right thing. i am very impressed w/ my dealership, they provided me w/ a rental car for a second time, i have not had to pay anything. they also have given me 2 free full tanks of gas for my trouble.
  • cstucstu Member Posts: 3
    As I was trying to figure out he problem to keep from paying a dealing to rip me off, I found the answer to my AC/Heater blower problem. I ck'd all of the fuses and everything was good... I decided to look under the dash at the fan it's self and just started moving and disconnecting and reconnecting the various plugs to the blower and all of a sudden it started working. Now, understand that I am not to literate when it comes to these problems., there is a small black box mounted beside the blower there are about three wires coming out of it. The box is probably a 3X4 inch box. As I played with the connection I realized that this was the problem. What I say that happen is that my 10 y/o daughter, who rides on that side probably pulled the wiring with her foot and stretch the wiring. It's a problem, but I am sure that I can fix it or replace it. I think about how much it would have cost me to take my Jeep into the dealer or a repair shop for this minor problem...There is a God!
  • introubleintrouble Member Posts: 1
    How do you remove the old antenna mast in a power antenna in a 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee?
  • hbaradhbarad Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for your reply, You were right, it was the resistor. The dealer acted like this was the first one to go bad in Jeep history, although three people I work with also had the same problem. Nothing like quality engineering & design.
  • hbaradhbarad Member Posts: 9
    I had the same problem with my 2001 JGC, just last week, and it was the blower motor resistor. From other posts, it seems this has been a fairly common problem with Jeeps for the last 10 years or so. It's been 90+ degrees where I live, so I just paid the $400 to get it fixed. I don't know if this is a DIY project for most people, but I needed it fixed right away.
  • golf32golf32 Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE JUST BOUGHT A 96 JGC 4 LITRE IT RUNS GREAT,EVERYTHING WORKS,BUT I GET A VIBRATION UP THROUGH THE BRAKE PEDAL, AND IT MAKES A NOISE {SOUNDS AS IT IS COMING FROM THE GLOVE BOX} ANYBODY HAD ANY SIMILAR SYMPTOMS?
  • jgc96jgc96 Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone know what a map sensor is? The diagnostic test that was preformed came back map sensor voltage is to high. Any ideas please let me know. :confuse:
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