Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

tidester · August 2005

MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure

The sensor measures intake pressure and the computer uses the data to adjust fuel and timing.

tidester, host

jgc96 · August 2005

If my car gave me a msg saying map voltage to high, what needs to be done to fix it. My car is trying to stall on my while driving, and it hesitates a lot. Any suggestions, before i take to the mechanic?

Thanks

tidester · August 2005

If the voltage is too high then the manifold pressure is too high. The simplest thing to check is whether your vacuum hose has any bends or kinks in it. If it's okay then I would take it in for professional advice.

tidester, host

roses438 · August 2005

Okay heres the deal. I have a 98 JGC Laredo. On start up a few days ago, the gauges were fine, then as i was driving down the road, all of the gauges on the dash went dead (ALL: speedometer, tachometer, rpms, fuel, oil pressure, temp, voltage), as did my power window controls, and the overhead gauges (outside temp, fuel mileage, etc) started giving false readings. I kept driving in hopes that it was just a quick short. Since then, this has occurred repeatedly and im now looking for answers. I've been told that there are ground-wires for the electrical system that can become loose, but i dont know where they are located. Has this ever happened to anyone, or does anyone have any suggestions on a fix? Anything would be greatly appreciated! Thanks alot!

scsimmons · August 2005

Just had my cooling fan replaced and now the oil pressure gauge is maxed out at 80 (constantly). Any ideas what would cause this?

Thanks,
Scott

sshedroff · August 2005

Hey, I too have just purchased a 2005 Jeep Grand Cheokee Limited V8 in the beginning of May 2005. On my first trip out of town, about 5 hours away, the Jeep shifted into 1 st gear and that is where it stayed!!! *(Towed Away) Needless to say... the computer is OK????? (So they say) They have replaced the Valve body in the transmission without any luck and on 8-8-05 with just 3000 miles replaced the transmission. Only 6 hours after picking it up it dropped into 1 st gear permanently and was towed away again.
Help... anybody else out there!!!!
My dealer also is not too interested in customer satisfaction, and being that the Jeep is out of town, They seem to feel that it is sombody elses problem...
But they had no problem taking my Money!!!!
My Service manager here in Cleveland eluded to the fact that possibly the Cincinatti service is not as good (Would that be inferior?) I explained that if that is the case then *"Why the hell don't you flat bed it here?"
This is not looking good and I'm already looking into the Lemon Law
I've been a Jeep owner since '92 and this is a "SHAME"
Sharon

sshedroff · August 2005

What were the cars symptoms from the a/c fluid in the transmission? Was it not shifting? The dealer who has my car (4 hrs from home) is stumped; he can't figure out what is wrong. The Jeep has 3000 miles on it and already has had a NEW transmission. My probelm was the tranny gets stuck in 1st gear and the only way out of 1st is a new transmission - and that only lasts about 6 hours.

...let's see, I get to drive it for a few hours / the dealer gets to fix it for 2 or 3 weeks / I get to drive it a few hours / the dealer gets to fix it for 2 or 3 weeks...

soon they will have had posession of the car longer than I have since the purchase date in May.
lmk what the manifestations of a/c fluid in the tranny is.
THANK YOU!
Sharon

hagensen · August 2005

I have a 93 Grand Cherokee Laredo and the transmision seems to be slipping, or at times not responding at all. I know that i'm using the right fluid and its only giving me problems in one gear so I don't think its the filter. Can anyone tell me what they think.

scsimmons · August 2005

After reading several posts about oil pressure readings, it sounds like my sending unit is bad (or was broken). Where can I find this on a 99 model? My Haynes manual has no mention of the sending unit.

Thanks.

mijomo · August 2005

I was told by two sources (one being Cottman Transmission) that I need to replace the output speed sensor in my 6-clinder, 4.0L, Grand Cherokee Laredo. I looked at the part in an autoparts store and it looks somewhat simple. Does anyone know how to change this part? Is it difficult to do and do I have to get into the transmission to change it? Any help/advice on how I might do it myself would be greatly appreciated.

jpip · August 2005

This posting was from a long time ago but I am having the same problem now on my 1994 JGC. I either get a fast idle or very slow idle followed by the check engine light. I have replaced both the O2 sensor and the MAP sensor but the problem returned after both attempts at a cure. I had one shop suggest that it could be an exhaust manifold leak. Did you ever find the problem causing the 02 sensor on your Jeep?

mtelsey · August 2005

my symptoms were typical tranny symptoms. one being when going into drive from say park, would hesitate. 2 being a vibration and roaring when trying to maintain a speed, like going over side guards on a highway. 3 being my information center came up w/ transmission over temp. i didn't notice a "staying in first gear", but i am sure that is probably another symptom. have you looked at the tranny fluid yourself? if they aren't checking for that, they are changing transmissions w/out fixing the original cause. if it is a milky color, like strawberry, it is the a/c leaking into the fluid, a tsb is out on it. all it takes is a simple seal. mine is back now, so far so good. they have had to flush the transmission 8 times, and finally all the symptoms went away. no new tranny or rebuilt one. only thing new was they put in a new torque converter, cuz chrysler told them too. had it back a couple days now, and so far so good. checked the fluid, still sparkly red, seems to be good, i am keeping my fingers crossed. again, the dealer i had treated me good, i am very impressed w/ them, it is chrysler that needs some work. for starters a recall on that a/c leaking into tranny fluid problem would be good...

dmv · August 2005

Try a can of "BG" brand transmission reconditioner. My 95 GC had transmission slip at 125,000, and a can of BG was added and it has worked fine, now having 195,000 miles. Once I saw that this was going to work I then changed the fluid and filter and put in another can of BG. It has been flawless since then....

budtime · August 2005

so what was wrong your jeep

kalvaroo · August 2005

Well, to start off... here's what's not working. My windows won't work. My A/C won't kick on, but the fans blow. My lights don't come on when i use my keyless entry along with my horn not sounding. My overhead guage cluster including; gas mileage, miles to empty, elapsed time, and my temperature isn't working. Door chime along with my low fuel chime isn't working. The seatbelt light won't go off when i buckle my belt. My interior light dimmer isn't functioning. The interior lights don't come on when i use my keyless entry or open my doors. I'm living in FL with 90 degree heat and 90% humidity so this is making in miserable to drive my Jeep. I have resorted to opening my tailgate window and driving with my door cocked open. Anyway, this happened a few weeks ago and i havn't had the time to take it anywhere to get checked out, i really can't go a few days w/o my vehicle, along with not wanting to get screwed by the dealership or another mechanic. I've checked every fuse in my vehicle and they're all fine. I've found a possible short in the circuit that uses the #8 fuse under the dash... but i don't know where to go next or what to do.

mstoverink · August 2005

So I decided to take on the task of replacing my condenser and everything was going well until it came to actually disconnecting the refridgerant lines. The system has been properly vented and I got the radiator out and everything else disconnected but just realized that I need a special tool to disconnect the refridgerant lines. Living in Italy there are no mechanics open on the weekends, and most places are closed during August for vacation. Does anyone know, is there any way to disconnect the refridgerant lines without using this spring lock tool?

japus · August 2005

After 9 jeeps in 18 years I believe this is my last.. Only because of the manufacters inability to focus on a saftey problem....I do realize the brake rotors are warrenteed for 12000 miles or 1 year, however my opinion is this should not pertain to warpage, which is definately a defect in material... As of this posting my mileage is 32,500 ,after 13 months and 14000miles I did pay to have the original rotor's turned down, that cost me $100.00 at the time. I figured I would eat this and it would resolve the issue.. a few months later the wobbling came back and after contacting them Chrysler DID replace all my rotors as a goodwill gesture after the warranty period was over and I was at the time very pleased.. ..the replacement rotors have the very same problem that evolved with the original equipment, which I claim is and still is defective material... In approximately the same mileage the replacement rotors are doing the same as the original and when I brake going down a hill or even coming to a stop the jeeps front wheels wobbles back and forth creating a serious type of action in my opinion..
The sevice people looked at it and they again sent me to chrysler...chrysler sent me back to the service dept where they checked the rotors and found therm warped....This cost me $30.00 Service contacted chrsler and told them ..they will do nothing...I contacted chrysler cust service and they told me in a nice way..TOUGH....NO I do not expect this or any other part or parts to last forever, although shouldnt an important item like a brake rotor last more than the allotted time???
If this was a mechanical failure I could and would live with it..it isnt..it's a defect in whatever material has been used ...I have never needed linings replaced,on any of my nine jeeps, and never in all the years I have driven auto's ever needed drum's or rotor's turned down.
I use my brakes sparingly , now and always have,,thats just the way i DRIVE..Comments will be appreciated because I am not finished with this, not certain on which way or where to go...I am moving on this...

mstanley · August 2005

Thanks, copycat. The problem did turn out to be the crank sensor. Most difficult thing to replace on a 5.2. Located on the rear bell housing behind the EGR tube. Like to never have figured out what type of bolt was holding it on. Jeep Dealer mechanic said he thougt it was 10 mm hex head. NOT TRUE. For all you that change out your crank sensor, it is a # 40 Torx head. 2 bolts. Hope this will help someone..

liz11 · August 2005

I was wondering if they had solved the problem - apparently not. I have a 1999 Grand Cherokee and I have had the rotors turned 3 or 4 times and have had I believe 5 new sets of rotors and I only have 56,000 miles on the car. They simply can't fix it and won't admit there is a problem. They don't even turn the rotors anymore - they replace them.

They tried accusing me of riding the brakes, living on a hill, etc. It is defective material and I honestly don't think they know how to fix it.

I have done some research on other suv's and quite honestly, there are horror stories on just about everything. I was considering a Hyundai because of the warranty but it sounds like there is a reason for it!

Other than the brakes, I love my jeep. It is sound, solid, no road noise, honestly a lot of car for the money. I've given up trying to get Jeep to admit there is a problem and will take it to a discount brake outfit from now on. As my brother-in-law pointed out to me, at least it gives you warning - the steering wheel starts to vibrate so I know it's time for new rotors. Better than a bad transmission which will strand you, or electrical systems that randomly open and close your doors, or any of the other stories about competition out there.

I haven't heard of many other problems with the Jeeps so after looking up Hyundais, Kia's, Nissans, etc. I'll stick with my jeep with the bad rotors. At least I know I have a solid engine with real all wheel drive when I need it. I wont' take it to jeep anymore for the rotor replacement however, will start going to discount places as they can't do any worse than the 4,000 to 6,000 miles I'm getting out of the jeep rotors.

If you decide to pursue, let me know.

mbspark · August 2005

So Far I've had the same problems you are experiencing.

I had to replace the Passenger window which broke and needed the whole assembly, my passenger heated seat no longer works. My radio does the same thing and resets itself but remembers the stations and where my cd's were playing. My CD-Changer gives me an error half the time. It will work after turning the radio on and off and changing discs about 20+ times. Brake rotors are messed up. For some reason it never remembers my mirror settings and always moves them back, and lastly, the heat and air conditioning regulator is messed up. Those are my major problems.

The radio resetting is really screwing me up. When it first happened I saw that the ground ribbon underneath was frayed and no longer connected. I thought that was the problem and replaced it with a heavy guage ground wire that wouldn't fray easily with road dirt and vibrations. The problem happened again. I have no tried an aftermarket radio. Have you? I would be interested to see if that stops working, although I would hate to loose my cd-changer and steering wheel controls.

idelgado · August 2005

Hello,

I had the same exact problem with a 200 Grand Cherokee Limitted. Cleaned and tested the IAC valve - no luck. Replaced the TPS and problem resolved.

tropicat · August 2005

you talk about a runaround. I just came back from local dealer. We just moved from Florida to Texas. Problem: Headlights come on at all times. Sitting in garage. Open the entrance door from house into garage and the 2000 JGC headlites come on. On road to Texas lights start flashing on and off and. When we got here in Texas, we were due for further service, so I called nearest dealer and explained the problem to his service rep telling him that only that morning looked out and headlights were on.Made an appointment for early am service and had to jump start (battery nearly new) to be there on time and then explained the problem to another service rep. This is a serious problem: You don't want to be driving down the interstate flashing your headlights and brake lights or road rage can come into the picture.I left the dealership confident they would find the problem.
Here's what happened. We got a call the car was ready. Went over and ask what they found with the headlight problem.
HERE IS EXACT COPY FROM THE SERVICE INVOICE.
C HEADLIGHTS AND TAIL LIGHTS COME ON ALL BY THEMSELVES-ADVISE.
TECHNICIANS REPLY: WHEN THE SWITCH FOR THE HEADLAMPS IS ON AUTO THIS MEANS THE LIGHT WILL COME ON BY THEMSELVES.
I was really puzzled by this. I tried common sense reasoning with the rep. He replied" well you can leave it or I hate to replace a switch not knowing if that is the problem. So what do we as consumers do? There is a problem and the dealer should have called me and said " now tell us again about the problem--lets find the solution. Not that just turned the car loose. This is definitely a safety hazard and the manufacturer should give a solution. By the way. This is the WORST new bought vehicle I have ever owned and I have all the dealer records from new to prove it.

sk103b · August 2005

fellow jeep owner i feel your pain on the AC. I live in Dallas and it has been 100+ the last week, and my A/C went out the other day.
Mine situation is a little different in that my fan will not even kick on. What did they tell you the problem was with yours??

Any help would be appreciated, as i would like to bypass the repair shops!!!

r0guew0lff · August 2005

its not the crank sensor don't bother, your ecm is no good, i went crazy looking for a reason for it and the problem itself is tied into the ecm, when the ecm wants it will emit a positive signal to the relays which will let you start the car, however it is intermittent, and don't bother changing anything, i changed my fuel pump, crank sensor, ignition coil, complete distributor. i ended up spending about 650-700 bucks before i realized it was the computer which cost 190 remanafactured. after i changed it i haven't had a problem since.

brig2 · August 2005

Don't get the Ford Explorer XLT. If you look on their boards for problems, you will see A LOT of transmission problems since 2002 and still currently. Ford, apparently knows about this problem and has continued to ignore their customers. I have a 2002 Exp XLT and I have had nothing but problems since driving off the lot. From A/C to a back panel crack, to bearing problems, to transvers problems, to power window motor replacement, to seat belt and air bag mal functions which all needed to be replaced, AND I have had transmission problems for the last two years but was on extended warranty until recently. NOW is when FORD service department admits the problem. I thought I just received a lemon, but apparently there are hundreds more Ford customers with the exact same problems. I have been a loyal FORD customer for years (had four cars), and my family too since way way way back. However, we have all experienced really stressful problems in the millenium. This year we have ALL agreed, we are seeking another make and model which is why I am on this site now. So far, not too many JGC owners with transmission problems or real major or serious problems. You actually may have gotten a lemon. My problem is I have obviously purchased a rotten SUV from a company who used to have the majority of the market share. Just learned they are running close to dead last with Toyota first. AND I can understand why. The only good or great thing I can say about the EXP now is that it has the BEST roomy interior, and the interior parts last almost until the car dies with the exterior lasting almost as long. It's too bad they ignore the major trans problem. Makes me wonder if this is deliberate for more $$$ down the road in their pockets. Well, not mine anymore. Spending over 5K in total expenses for this 2002 was quite enough for me! My loyalty will go elsewhere. I have one family member who owns a JGC and has for the last and past 3 vehicles and she and her husband LOVE it. So I implore you to investigate further before settling on a FORD. And remember, this is from a "FORD built tough" (ha!) past LOYAL and defender of the company. I wish you and everyone else lots of luck with future auto purchases.

roses438 · August 2005

That sounds very similar to what i've been going thru with my 98 JGC Laredo 4.0! Windows wont work, A/C blows warm air, overheard gauge cluster giving false readings (apparently its always 100 degrees outside and i have 4000 miles to empty?), the dash gauges all shut off: no speedometer, tachometer, fuel level, oil pressure, engine temp, voltage meter. Its really a pain and i dont know what to do! All my fuses seem fine- wonder if there is a loose ground wire somewhere? Any thoughts on that? I'll have to check my fuse #8 under the dash- see if thats a problem...?
Our jeeps seem to be ailing from the same malfunction- but what is it? I'll keep looking, let me know if you find anything as well! Thanks & Good Luck too!

jeepgrl34 · August 2005

Hi All,
My 99 JGC Laredo seems to have foggy or some kind of filmy material on the inside of the headlight cases.It is present on both headlight units and it looks as if maybe condensation is present inside of them.Anyone else have any issues like this?If so could you please advise...is this going to be a costly repair,or is it just something that I could fix without a repair?Is it something a husband (non-mechanic) could fix or better not go that route.Please just don't let it be as pricey as it was to get those stupid warped rotors replaced,lol.
Thanks in advance

jsmith6 · August 2005

I simply cannot believe how poor of a product Jeep makes! When you pay 27K for a new vehicle, you think you would get a little time before things started to go wrong. Especially expensive things. I have never had a new vehicle with so many problems until I bought this 03 Grand Cherokee. Guys this is what I have decided to do- I'm going back to good old reliable Toyota (which is where I should have stayed).
I also own a 1994 4-Runner with 240,000 miles. I have owned it for 10 years and it has been paid for for 5 years. It is still going strong. We use it to pull our boat every weekend as well as drive it for work during the week. Other than using a bit of oil now that it has so many miles, it has no problems.
I think I will look into getting rid of the Jeep and getting another Toyota SUV. Good luck to all Jeep owners. Your gonna need it!!!!!!!

swisskitty · August 2005

hi! i also have a 99 JGC and the same foggy/aged headlights. a friend of mine familiar with cars says it takes a special solution and elbow grease. he's in the process of finding out the exact name of the stuff. so...a lot cheaper than headlamp replacement. if someone doesn't reply before me with the name of that "magic" solution, i'll be sure to find out and repost...

stever · August 2005

I think there are several brands of plastic lens polish out there. Here's one link I found:

tomliv, "Honda Accord Owners: Problems & Solutions" #11297, 14 Jul 2005 12:28 am

Steve, Host

swisskitty · August 2005

Thx for the tips! And, I did hear back from my friend who has more information to share...

"What my friends did for fogged headlamps was use a plastic polishing compound, I am not sure of the name, and some different levels of sandpapber grit to get it back to mostly stock. They did this on an Avenger and it looked almost new. They started with a coarser grit and then went to a finer one in either 3 or 4 steps. Starting at like 1220 grit then ending up at 2000 grit. It was mostly elbow grease."

jeepgrl34 · August 2005

Hey

Do your headlights have condensation inside of them also? And,at the risk of looking really dumb...are you supposed to clean the outside or the inside of the headlight covers(when you are scrubbing them clean) Again,all my problems "look" like they are coming from the inside.I wonder if there is alot of dismantling involved if the cleaning needs to be done on the inside of the cover.Thanks for your help.

jeepgrl34 · August 2005

Thank you for the link Steve...again,as stated in my other post...not sure if cleaning the outside of headlight case(which I assume is what is being described in the Honda post) will fix my problem or if it is all coming from the inside of the headlight case.

dagoods25 · August 2005

Hello, I am new to this site, but I am having the EXACT same problems with the AC condenser leaking into transmission fluid. I hear that replacing the torque converter is not fixing it. Besides checking or resealing the tranny dipstick seal, What needs to be done with this problem. Are we all buying lemons? My 05 JGC was purchased brand spanking new! I only have 5000 miles on it. Does anybody have a clue as to what so many disappointed customers should do? I feel outraged that my first new car is already in the shop for the second time in three days and my rental isn't even paid for. My parents have an 04 JGC and a 94 JC and they run like a swiss watch. I would greatly appreciate any advice on who to talk to or how to handle this situation.

melendez02 · August 2005

I advise you not to buy a 2001 JGC. I have one and it only has 25,000 miles and I to replace the brakes on it four times. The first three times the dealership covered the cost. The last one I had to pay $450.00 dollars. I was told by the dealership that the next brake job would cost me about $1,000.00 dollars because rotors, calipers and pads would have to be replaced. I only drive the vehicle to work and my vehicle is maintained the the dealership.

paule · August 2005

Buy aftermarket rotors and that's the last you'll have to touch them.

expert4 · August 2005

1997 JGC stalls while driving,somtimes right after star-up.You never know when. Dealership has no answers (been in for check three times),check engine light does not come on. Car will usually start after. Help!!

expert4 · August 2005

Have you found out what the problem is yet?

xscout · August 2005

OK all you JGC ac drain experts, I am looking for more repair ideas. I have drilled holes (in round area below "Y" and in main case above) to verify drain is clear and resealed them with rubber plugs. Tube going through the firewall is clear and wet inside. I have used silicone sealant several times around the area on the inside of the jeep where the drain exits. My passenger side footwell still fills up with water every time I use the AC. Driver side and rear foot wells remain dry. This is driving me crazy because everything else in the Jeep works great! I am not using coolant and this happens whether road conditions are wet or not. The only way to keep carpet dry is to never use ac, which is OK with me but not with my daughters!

jeeprover · August 2005

It appears the 2005 Jeep GC with NAG1 (W5A580) transmission has a problem with water infiltration around the dipstick tube hole. Several people have written about this -- it may be detected when you see water in the trans fluid (white or strawberry froth instead of clear red) or when you notice a "shuddering" while shifting, esp. between 3d and 4th gears. In its worse case, if the trans fails, the vehicle may revert to "limp home" mode and only operate in 1st gear. This affects all 3.7 engined vehicles with this transmisison built before June 3, 2005. There is a TSB (Nr. 21-011-05A) on how the Dealer is supposed to fix this - it involves draining/purging the transmission and putting a sealant around the point that leaks water into the trans. See http://www.wkjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_2101105A.pdf for a copy of the TSB (this is from the WK Jeep site, www.wkjeeps.com, which is an excellent resource for 2005+ owners; see www.wjjeeps.com for 1999-2004 WJ Jeeps). Bottom line here is: 1) if it happens to you, make the dealer fix it right, according to the (rather complicated) TSB; 2) if it hasn't happened to you yet, make a dealer do the fix -- install RTV sealant around the base of the fill tube. It should cost almost nothing to put the sealant there... I am going to ask for it to be done when I take my Jeep in for 6,000 mile servicing next week...

jeeprover · August 2005

XScout -- on my 2004 Jeep GC, I had a mouldy smell from the a/c, indication of a clogged drain... I found the drain (right side, through firewall, plastic tube, fairly low) and forced water from the garden hose into it for 10 seconds, which then backflowed with whatever was blocking the tube. But in my case, the real problem was that I parked the vehicle on an uphill, which always kept the last bunch of water in the a/c rather than allowing it to drain (like downhill parking would have). Sold the Jeep -- very reliable compared to my 2002 and 1999 (it of the warped brakes) Grand Cherokees. But I love 'em... and love my 2005 even more... My logic is, if you buy the base model, these are a great bargain. (I think if I bought one for $35K and had so many problems, I'd feel cheated...).

dagoods25 · August 2005

It appears my mechanics are having difficulty repairing this problem...I have the 4.7 V8, will that TSB also work for my vehicle? Does this permanently resolve the problem?

jeeprover · August 2005

I think the V8 comes with the 545RFE transmission -- the TSB only pertains to the W5A580 transmission (6 cylinder engine). It could have a similar problem (contamination of trans. fluid) but more likely has a computer problem. But that is only a guess and one at the far fringes of my knowledge of transmissions. The good (?) news is that once a car has been in production for a while, the experienced mechanics have seen most problems more than once, and figure out how to deal with them -- even if there isn't a TSB put out on how to do it. I guess the best advice is, never buy a new model car in its first year of production! And not just Jeeps, but maybe especially Jeeps.

jeeprover · August 2005

Did you decide what to buy? My recommendation would be a 2004 JGC Laredo. Very good prices on these -- maybe get one for $12-15K. (High depreciation is a fact of life with JGC but in this case benefits the buyer). This model has most of the bugs associated with the WJ model worked out. That is, the pulsing brakes, driveline problems, electric window stoppage, etc., issues found in earlier WJ's seem to have been resolved -- see http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb.htm for a list of TSBs on the WJ, showing which apply to which years). The 4.0 I6 engine is remarkably reliable -- wish they had kept in the 2005 (compared to the 3.7, the 4.0 had a few less HP but more torque at lower RPM and got better gas mileage!).

pmc94jgc · August 2005

OK, I'm having the same problem, which seems to be caused by falling pine needles and debri from trees. My question is, how in the heck do you remove the bottom of the ac unit to clean all of that stuff out. I took the motor out and a sensor located next to the ac coils and was able to get an air hose up in to blow out. I then flushed with water and it was running out of the drain, which by the way I found going into the frame. This think is driving me crazy and the car is starting to smell of midew.
Thanks for any help anyone has.

xscout · August 2005

My JGC is a 1997 model, but what I did to clear the drain passage was to drill a hole in the side of the case at the bottom (facing the passenger seat) and then use a probe and compressed air to blow it out. My local hardware store has small (approx.1/4 inch) rubber plugs at about $.08 which I resealed the holes with. I was able to pull the debris out through another hole I drilled near the drain exit. I don't think you can remove the bottom of the ac unit without very major dashboard disassembly.

pmc94jgc · August 2005

Just got inside from working on the drain. I drilled a hole along the frame wall inside of the engine compartment to access the drain, which some design tech probably did just for jun. I removed the motor from underneath the housing on the interior of the car, motor located under right foot of passenger side. I was able to rig some tubing, small going into drain, bigger over that, then into shop Vac. I flushed the inside area of the AC coil with water from garden hose then sucked out the water through the drain into vac. Some major yuck came out so I hope I got it. Thanks for the help. they must of built the car around the heating and air system.

dagoods25 · August 2005

I have read that the sealant won't last for long. My jeep currently has the water leaking into the transmission problem and a problem with the cluster computer not comunicating with the computer under the hood...or at least thats what the guys at the dealership said. Is yours having the torque converter replaced as well?

spirit201 · August 2005

Hi, I am happy to have found this discussion board and welcome any advice. My car was due for an oil change (though under 3000 miles over 7 months). The car was inspected with oil change on December 28, 2004. It was running great, not a single problem. In July, I checked the oil (with help of friend) and it was below the line. So we added one container of oil. We drove about 100 miles, no problem. Several days later I went to use my car and the transmission wouldn't change gears but would rev really high. Eventually it would go. It would get stuck around 35 mph. The mechanic said that the transmission would be $1700 and replacing rusting parts would be $1500 and that the car was not worth putting the money into (it has 155,000 miles). Someone told me that there could have been too much oil. Any opinions on this? Is there a way to fix this without spending so much money? I am unemployed and therefore won't get approved for a car loan. Besides, I love my JGC.

I am hoping I could do some research to find ways to repair the car less expensively.
Thank you very much!!

mtelsey · August 2005

mine is back now, (aug 17) so far so good. they have had to flush the transmission 8 times, and finally all the symptoms went away. no new tranny or rebuilt one. only thing new was they put in a new torque converter, cuz chrysler told them too. the torque converter alone did not fix the problem. they put the seal on, they told me it lets the water cascade over that area instead of being able to pool on a seal and leak inside. had it back going on 2 weeks now, and so far so good. checked the fluid, still sparkly red, seems to be good, i am keeping my fingers crossed. again, the dealer i had treated me good, i am very impressed w/ them, it is chrysler that needs some work. for starters a recall on that a/c leaking into tranny fluid problem would be good...

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