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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    Hmmmm... I don't think the fuel pump would be going out on a jeep this new, but I could be wrong. Did ever act up before it quit completely? Check your plug wires, one in particular, the coil wire, if that isn't hooked up, or its bad, it will turn over but not start. And like tdad1302 said, check the fuel filter too. Oh, when you turn your ignition on, not trying to crank it, do you hear a whine or whirr? You can also have someone stand at the back of your jeep to listen for this. If they/you don't hear anything then there is a chance your fuel pump is bad.
  • tdad71302tdad71302 Member Posts: 18
    thanks. i'll have to check that out. sounds like it's a pain in the butt. and i don't care if it dies. i don't drive it much. i can't stand driving around with that sound. i feel stupid.
  • jac4jac4 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 JGC. In late August '05 I had the fan and fan relay replaced. 2 weeks later I noticed a rattling that comes and goes when the fan is on. Took it in and they stated the fan was defective and replaced it (no cost). Left the dealer, still making the noise. Took it right back and they said it was the tensioner. Replaced that. Left the dealer tonight - rattle starts up when truck heats up and fan turns on. You hear it more against a wall/drive through space (as noise hits the wall and comes back). Any ideas?
  • jac4jac4 Member Posts: 2
    I had this problem with my 1999 JGC. It wouldn't turn over. Turned out to be a seal between the fuel pump and the line - let air in and it wouldn't start.
  • asiandudeasiandude Member Posts: 13
    My '97 JGC 4.0L has a strange problem when driving at a steady speed.. the RPM surges (small increases but no decreases) so the car kinda kangaroos along the road. The idle is steady and acceleration smooth, but once the speed gets to 80kph / 2000rpm this surging starts. Has anyone had this problem or any ideas how to fix? Thanks for any help.
  • tdad71302tdad71302 Member Posts: 18
    how can you test to see if your water pump is bad?
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    Ok...up under the water pump is a "weep" hole or a vent hole. If the pump is going bad coolant will leak from there. You can check for another sign by rocking the water pump pulley up and down. If there are signs of coolant leakageat the weep hole and/or the pulley moves up and down then you know its time to replace the pump.
  • chumpchump Member Posts: 6
    i have a 94 jgc with a 6cyl. 4ltr. motor. I have developed a miss and the engine light comes on and stays on even when the miss seems to go away. It idles very rough but will eventually start to run smoother but the engine light will stay on. Also does anyone one kn ow what is involved in removing the injectors and cleaning the carbon deposits. any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    I would say your plugs and wires are to blame(this is consistant with it running smoother as the engine warms up), and if you have changed them make sure the wires are all going to the right plug and post on the distributor, and even make sure the distributor cap isn't cracked or corroded bad inside, along with the rotor button. About the only thing I know of to do for carbon deposits on the injectiors is to get some fuel additives that are made for that.
  • jeovannyjeovanny Member Posts: 1
    i had the same problem, someone loosened my oil filter and the oil pressure would drop,my mechanic nor the dealer could not find the problem. My question was did your engine block get destroyed or was it the heads that broke. because in my car the lister if that is the correct name, became loose, no pressure in one of the spark plugs.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    Yep, it was the crank and block. I wish it could've been the heads as I've would've been able to remedy that one myself. So $3100 dollars later, the '95 is running great.
  • nedneedlemyernedneedlemyer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Grand Cherokee and I am having a similar problem with the rear hatch. It seems as if it will not unlock completly and will not open. I was just curious if you ever figured out a solution.
  • 390bird390bird Member Posts: 5
    :( :confuse: My brother in law is having problems with his 1996 Grand Cherokee. First the Four wheel drive seems to stay on even if it is placed in "two high" cant think why any ideas PLEASE?

    Also his power windows are intermittenly having problems working. Some times the passenger front won't work then it does, sometimes with the master and others only with the passenger switch. This has been going on with all windows, sometimes they work sometimes they don't, Masterswitch Bad???
    i recently found out a bearing is bad that makes the front end hop in turns, weird name, can't think of it, will this affect it not kicking out of four wheel drive??
  • jeeproverjeeprover Member Posts: 17
    I took the 2005 Jeep GC with slipping transmission to the Jeep Dealer... the answer was to install a new shifter and some sort of TSB that hasn't been explained to me (my wife picked up the Jeep). The result is that the Jeep shifts much better, and some of perception of slow acceleration has been diminished. Not sure if it was the dreaded water in transmission problem but I don't think so. Still waiting for the recall to replace the grommet on the dip stick hole to prevent water entry. Lesson learned, I guess, is to go to the dealer right away if you have a slipping or poorly shifting transmission in this model -- they appear to be learning how to fix them.
  • cherokee99cherokee99 Member Posts: 1
    I have a jeep grand cherokee 99' and my rear hatch went as well it turns out it was the motor... it runs about 53$ on my year not to sure but it should be some where around that was well...
  • armyabn2k5armyabn2k5 Member Posts: 2
    my jeep tends to want to cut of while i am in the middle of driving some where. some time it will start right up and other times it needs to sit. when i do a system check i get the code(P0320). if some one could help me figure out what the problem is i would be very happy
  • kcreadykcready Member Posts: 7
    I have a 1997 JGC Orvis with 70,000 miles on it. It has a low pitched growl on the passengers side. Seems like it is coming from the front. Seems worse when turning. We are going to check the passengers side front wheel bearing. If that seems ok any other suggestions on what it might be?
  • waynexohwaynexoh Member Posts: 1
    In my Grand Cherokee, the fan only blows out the dash vents on every setting. Under the dash, I can see the motor is working, but the link that it drives keeps popping out. How can I get into the heater box to see what the problem might be? Any ideas would be helpful.

    :confuse:
    Thanks, Wayne
  • john90john90 Member Posts: 2
    There is a solution to your brake problems. If you search frozen rotors.com , you will find they sell an aftermarket brake rotor of higher quality. I presently have them on my vehicle and they work great. Happy motoring! :)
  • kplaw6064kplaw6064 Member Posts: 1
    I have been have an intermittant problem which first showed up as the interior lights going on and off a few times as I drove. Then the A/C would not work once and at the same time the power windows did not work. Last week the alarm went of when it was parked in the driveway and now all of the interior lights stay on when the vehicle is turned off and parked. Any ideas as to the cause, pulling fuses each time I park just is no fun!
  • smunsonsmunson Member Posts: 1
    I have the '05 JGC Limited V8 (not the Hemi). EPA mileage estimates 15 (city) to 20 (hwy). As my husband puts it, I drive it like "a little girl," which I am! In other words, I do not drive this car "hard." The only time I have seen close to 15 mpg was on a hwy trip. Otherwise, 11 mph is what I am regularly get in the city. This has been the case over the entire 3500 miles I have driven it so far. Has anyone else had this experience i.e., receiving significantly lower gas mileage than the estimates? Could something be wrong with my car? At this point, I'm actually hoping there is something wrong and it can be fixed, so I'm not stuck with this terrible gas mileage. I should have gotten a Hummer at this rate!
  • cinemadude1cinemadude1 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 2002 PT cruiser then I traded it in on this 2003 JGC Limited and had the same problem you had. I called Diamler Chrystler directly and they told me to take it to the dealer of my choice and they paid for it all. They did just that! So my advice would be to try a different dealership and call them the number is in your service manual.
    Guy Alexander
  • kaceywaykaceyway Member Posts: 3
    I've been having the same problem since 10/13, except mine does cut off. I took it to the dealer and they didn't know, I took it took another on today and they got codes P0320 and P1757. It will cut off while I'm driving and usually takes about 20-30 minutes to restart. I was told that it wasn't the coil. Any suggestions anyone?
  • mike20878mike20878 Member Posts: 60
    I took the car in and they couldn't reproduce the problem with the AC. But they noticed the AC blower resistor was corroded and suspected that was the problem. Should it be corroded three years in? Is this a recurring problem with Jeep?
  • frcoonhoundsfrcoonhounds Member Posts: 1
    Hey. My jeep has 312k miles. Recently it decided not to start one day. It was getting fuel and turning over normally. I replaced the distirbutor cap and rotor, the wires and the spark plugs. It started right up. I took it out and about 30 mins during its firs run since being repaired it stalled out and wont start again? This is the only problem this jeep has ever had. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
  • 390bird390bird Member Posts: 5
    :cry: :sick: :mad:

    Does anyone know if Jeep does anything or we can hold them accountable for this, a friend has been making monthly payments etc. but has been unable to drive since June because a part has been on "Back Order". The part or parts needed have something to do with the check engine light and trans. Low mileage, still under extended warranty...but four and a half months??? They still wanted that payment~! Oh she did get a apology letter, "were sorry but there's nothing we can do~!
  • lu67lu67 Member Posts: 1
    I have taken our 2005 JGC to 2 dealerships because the check engine light came on. Both told me I was basically nuts. No codes came up, so nothing was wrong. At least they made something up to fix your problem. The light went off after they hooked it up to the computer both times. As of yet, it has not come back on. Both times mine came on, the fuel had gotten down to 1/4 of a tank. I keep it full now with mid-grade.
    I am still waiting on the recall notice as well to check out the transmission recall. I am wondering if that could have caused the light to come on.
    Just as a warning, the paint on our front bumper is peeling off. They say it got hit by something, possibly a rock, but now the paint is peeling and they won't cover it under warranty. The repair shop wants $500 to repaint the front bumper. No guarantee that it won't happen again, and again.
  • nicks99c5nicks99c5 Member Posts: 5
    I had the same problem with my 03 JGC. Only problem was, once the relay fried, it later fried the fan motor. I drive the interstate back and forth to work and this bad relay could have existed for weeks. It wasn't until I was in stop and go traffic did I notice my temp gauge hit 260. Replacing the relay didn't fix the problem. Had to also replace the fan motor and that wasn't cheap.
  • nicks99c5nicks99c5 Member Posts: 5
    I've had the check engine light come on at least three times on my 03 JGC. Dealer was of no help. I bought an OBDII reader for $100 and found that my gas cap was leaking. I tried tightening the cap well beyond it's stopping point ensuring a tight fit. Still didn't solve the problem. For $10 I bought a new filler cap and after two days the light went out. No problems and no error codes since.
  • nicks99c5nicks99c5 Member Posts: 5
    Check your air intake for dead critters. Mice love to find new homes. I've actually had mice nests inside my air cleaner box. Had a dead mouse in my air intake of my corvette during winter storage and had the same foul smell come spring. Had to take the duct work apart to find the dead mouse. (Or at least what was left of it).
  • nicks99c5nicks99c5 Member Posts: 5
    Check you motor mounts or transmission mounts. It doesn't do it when you put it in neutral because there is no load on the drivetrain.
  • corcor Member Posts: 27
    Has anyone had any luck using cross drilled rotor for their GC? I've got a 2004 Laredo 4x4 and I'm on my 4th set of front rotors. I've heard that the C/D rotors are significantly better, but wanted to hear from those who either have them OR have used them. Also, which brand works best? Thanks for the help!!!!
  • kevin117kevin117 Member Posts: 4
    Had the same problem on my 1999 JGC, turned out to be the connector by the fan (under the glove box) was loose.

    Turn on the AC, walk around the car, lay on the passengers floor, look up with flashlight, start wiggling wires.

    You may find that one bunch causes the AC fan to go on and off.
  • kevin117kevin117 Member Posts: 4
    If your problem is warping, look into frozenrotors.com

    Their top selling model is for the JGC.
  • kevin117kevin117 Member Posts: 4
    With all those miles it could be anything.

    If it's turning over check the fuel pump.
  • logmanlogman Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 jeep grand cherokee limited. I rented a u-haul that was wired wrong and it blew all the lights on the jeep when i plugged it up. To make matters worse after I fixed the fuses that blew, now when I start the jeep, sometimes it starts and sometimes it acts like the battery is dead. Then when it finally starts the tachometer and the speedometer go crazy. They peg out and the interior lights try to come on without the jeep running. Does this sound like a ghost or has someone else gone through this before?
  • mike103mike103 Member Posts: 5
    hi i have a1995 jgc limited and i have the same exact problem i thought it was jst my truck but apparently it isnt i have no idea what it is but i am currently trying to figure it out if i find out i will post it
  • ryanryanryanryan Member Posts: 1
    Any luck on how to disable the security piece. I am having the exact same problem with my 95 laredo.
  • whatnowwhatnow Member Posts: 1
    my 04 JGC got new tires, had it with the OEM stock ones. But still noticing the car shakes, steering slightly shakes but not as bad as it used to. While driving down the highway, my dog was in the back laying down and I noticed the shaking was so bad he was actually like "vibrating". My passenger actually felt stomach sick after riding with me. Even the visors were "trembling" bad. I have read most all the forums, but they were all talking about the earlier year Jeeps. It has always shook and the dealership just said it was normal OR couldn't find anything wrong with the suspension. What gives?? Where should I start? Thanks so much.
    I would think if oem parts are bad/junk, aftermarket WOULD BE BETTER!! I have been compaining to Jeep dealer since and now warranty IS UP. If I do find something bad, should Jeep make it good?
  • wretched_0newretched_0ne Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me where the fuel door release button is on a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4X4?
  • lespaullespaul Member Posts: 1
    Okay this is my first post let's see if I can make this make sense. I have a 1993 4.0l Jeep Grand Cherokee. For the last few weeks it has been slowly getting harder and harder to start and then a couple of days ago it simply wouldn't. I noticed the battery terminals where corroded so i took them off and cleaned them. This is were i discovered the problem. If I leave the key on and place the ground terminal on I don't get a clicking sound ( i believe it to be the relays) If i place the wire off and on a few times I finally get the clicks, when i get the clicks it starts first crank everytime. What do i need to do to get the clicks everytime and a why would it only happen after i replace the terminals a few times? I am so furstrated at this point. Thanks
  • keithugakeithuga Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Jeep Cherokee SE 4WD, and the ac/heat had cut out for a few weeks, and would work if you messed with it some. Then it just worked great for like 8 months, but now it wont blow at all. You can turn the ac on, and hear the compressor click on, but it does not blow. Is this some kind of sending unit problem? What could it be? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    I would try replacing the cable you are taking on and off. It is possible there is a break in it internally keeping you from getting a good connection every time. This may not be the problem, but it is a inexpensive, easy to try possibility.
  • leo948leo948 Member Posts: 38
    i've got a jgc ltd (28k pkg) that was purchased new in '01. i had the problem with my stock rotors warping every 12-15k miles. at around 50k miles i switched to slotted aftermarket rotors and haven't had a single problem since. :D the brand i bought are by powerslot and at the time they were (i think) $80/ea. i only did the fronts and while i was at it i changed the pads to ceramic ones and i also used the anti-squeak goo. it's been a while since i did any research on rotors, but if i recall correctly the C/D starts benefiting only with extreme use. personally i've had zero problems with my slotted-only rotors.

    good luck with your search
  • dchiusanodchiusano Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 JGC Overland and so far I love it. I seem to have a water leak coming onto the driver’s side floor well. It's a lot of water. The dealer has looked at it with no solution. They will be calling in "the water doctor" next. I'm nervous. Any ideas or suggestions? I pulled up the carpet myself as well to look for myself.
  • biogradstubiogradstu Member Posts: 6
    I have a 98 JGC, 6 cy. w/83,000 miles. I've only had it for a couple months now and I have a few questions that hopefully someone can answer. The first question deals with some of the optional items that can be turned on. In the manual it says that options such as the lights turn on when the wipers are on and horn beeps when the doors locks can be turned on by authorized dealers. Is there a way for me to manually doing this without going to a dealer and having to pay them?

    My other question deals with the 4wd system (select trac). This is my first vehicle I have owned that has 4wd. I'm not too familiar with how to operate the whole system. When shifting from 2wd to 4 full time do I have to have the transmission in neutral? How about when I shift from 4 fulltime back to 2wd? I don't want to goof around with it until I now what I'm doing. Thanks for any help.
  • dsmansdsmans Member Posts: 10
    I have a '95 vI GCL and had the exact same problem. I have found it cheaper to check the oil level periodically and add the quart that it may be low over time (as well as keeping up on the regular oil changes) due to the leaks, than replace the seal and other various oil leaks it has. Although I'm not the first owner of this vehicle, it was broken in with Synthetic Blend oil and I'm afraid to switch to regular oil at this point!
  • dsmansdsmans Member Posts: 10
    I have a '95 JGCL V8, 150,000 miles with a rebuilt traney in it already. I'm noticing now since the weather is getting colder here in the northeast, if the car isn't sufficiently warmed up (as opposed to just jumping in and taking off as you can in the warmer weather), the traney will slip when I come to my first full stop, and take a few seconds to go back into first gear. Has anyone out there experienced this problem and have any solutions as to what it may be? Thanks!
  • dsmansdsmans Member Posts: 10
    In regards to the power window problem, I started having the sometimes work/sometimes not problems back this summer when finally, they stopped working altogether. Thank goodness they were stuck up instead of down as it rained that whole week. It turned out to be 2 bad wires in the wire bundle which is located in the driver's side door (large hose-like apparatus). It cost me around $150 to have it taken care of. I thought it was the masterswitch initially too, but it wasn't.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    Make sure that you have enough fluid in the tranny. Also make sure that it is the correct fluid. Colder temps can make a tranny act differently, especially when the tranny hasn't had time to warm up . I'd suggest a complete flush and refill at an authorized place. I took my '98 5.9 Limited to the dealer when I was having the same problems(I too live in the Northeast-Maine) for the flush and never had another problem with it. It's been a while, but I believe the cost was $189.00 plus tax. Well worth it versus paying $2k for a new tranny. Good Luck.:)
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