Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Recognize it for the "game" it is and stick to what you want. Don't ever knuckle-under to this. Been there, done that, and I won.
Monte
This vehicle has had the following problems by 13000 miles.
Rotars warped twice.
Premature tire wear
Heating elements both front seats broke
Cannot get cool outside air through ducts
Shimmy and noise when turning sharply
Failure to start easily in morning
Transmission clunks hard when changing gears at low speeds
Delay in engaging transmission when cold..can put it in reverse and nothing happens for 5-10 seconds.
Pull to right when hard braking
*** three episodes where shifted into reverse and even though foot was on the brake the vehicle lurched (accelerated) requiring hard use of the brake. ****This I consider Very dangerous!!!!!
yellow warning light intermittently goes on
Fuel gauge innacurate
Clock runs fast
I am warned the rotars will warp again.. I am told that Dc is looking at a fix for the calipers.
The number of problems I have had for this young of a car shocks me(as a three jeep owner).
My concerns are that this is going to be an expensive vehicle to maintain without an extended warranty and that this sudden lurching will cause an accident.
Dean
Transmission failures, steering gearbox failures, transfer case viscous coupler problems, driveshaft yokes, U-joint retaining blocks, some electrical problems, water leakage, AC drain vent blockage (leaks into passenger footwell), and the infamous warped rotor problem... just to name a few.
Don't mean to sound negative... I love the JGC. If you think these problems are numerous, go and read the recalls and/or TSB's issued for a comparable year Ford or GM SUV.
Had a 98 JGC Ltd that went back under the lemon law for a major drivetrain vibration that the dealer couldn't find or fix. Felt like the vehicle was going to shake itself apart on the highway when the vibration would start.
FRONT BRAKE PULSATION DURING LIGHT TO MODERATE BRAKE APPLICATION
Date: May 13, 2002
Bulletin # 0500302
Year: 1999-2002 (models built before May 11, 2002)
Summary: This bulletin involves the replacement of both front brake rotors and caliper assemblies. Parts required: Rotor, Caliper kit (2 calipers, pads and retaining bolts).
Thanks!
I have a 01 JGC Loreado. Love it. No problems whatsoever. Of course I only have 5000 miles on it, but the transmission has driven me crazy from day one. The symptom is a very annoying jerk when it shifts into 5th. This usually occurs around 53 mph. I have also watched the tack, and it seems to drop down at shift, then seems to float up before it settles. Is this normal? Haven't taken it back to the dealer, 'cause they have a bad rep in the service dept. Any advice would be appreciated.
The transmission and shift pattern are controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM) and its software. Because this is a trans that "learns" to shift itself according to your driving habits, it's just a matter of having the dealer reflash the computer (wipe out the memory) and reload new software... hopefully with a newer revision.
I've had this done several times on my 99 as they continue to tweak this software. My dealer now does this on his own whenever I go in for an oil change and they see that a newer PCM software revision is available. Not a big deal... maybe takes 5-10 minutes tops. Have your dealer do this for you.
It doesn't seem to matter how you drive your vehicle and what the trans is "learning" by it. The trans feels better after they download new PCM software, but in 3-4 weeks it seems to be back to its old habits and shift patterns. It's nothing that seems to hurt the trans (unless you're experiencing the 2-3 slam shift problem). It's just annoying and something you learn to live with. Don't know if DC will ever get this straightened out.
I drilled a hole in the box beam, inside the fenderwell and located end of drainpipe. Used jigsaw to cut access hole (2"x 3")inside fenderwell by shock absorber. A 1/2" CPVC 90 degree pipe fitting is an exact slip fit on the HDPE drainpipe. With $.68 worth of CPVC pipe and fittings I connected the drain to my shopvac and sucked and blew, sucked and blew through the drainpipe. I pulled a bunch of what appeared to be thin rubber sheets about 1" in diameter out of the a/c drain outlet. These are from the factory but definitely are the things plugging up the a/c.
If you have this problem and need guidance in where to drill the hole to access the drainpipe, send me an E-mail at wkilgore@contactpsc.com
The problem is a software glitch... it can't seem to decide which of the two 3rd gears to shift the trans into. When it does, it's like an afterthought and it slams it into gear.
Even after new software, the problem may eventually return like it did on mine. Why they can't fix this... who knows? Just have them reprogram the PCM when it starts doing this. Yeah, it's a pain but that's about all you can do and it very well may save you from costlier repairs later.
Can you give more info on this?
FRONT BRAKE PULSATION DURING LIGHT TO MODERATE BRAKE APPLICATION
Date: May 13, 2002
Bulletin # 0500302
I can't find this on the NHTSB website. I also have an Alldata account that is supposed to have the TSBs as well and I can't find this.
Where did you get this info?
Thanks, Eddie
FRONT BRAKE PULSATION DURING LIGHT TO MODERATE BRAKE APPLICATION
Date: 5/13/02
Bulletin # 0500302 (supercedes 0500501 Dated Sep 14, 2001)
Model Year(s): 1999-2002 (models built May 11, 2002 and prior)
Description: Front brake pulsation during light to moderate brake application.
Details: This bulletin involves the replacement of both front brake rotors and caliper assemblies.
Parts required:
52098672 Rotor
05093174AA Caliper kit (2 calipers, pads and retaining bolts)
Okay..finally found it: (checked both NHTSB & Alldata...looks as if they have not updated much since the first of the year...did find one dated as late as Feb '02 on GMC Envoy, but Jeep GC latest was Dec 01)
http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb.htm#0500302
But now I have a bigger problem the headlights, wipers, and radio controls on the steering weel
will all stop working for hours at a time and then just come back on like nothing ever happened
it has done that to me four times since January and has been to two different dealer one of them it has been to twice to be fixed and they say they cant find anything wrong with it. I have wrote Crysler a letter over the subject and have had no responce. I owned a 1994 Grand Cherokee before this one and had planed to trade the 2000 in ever few years but now I probally will never own a Crysler product ever again if they dont respond back to me.
I am sorry for all the neg. but I think when you pay $30,000 plus for a vehice that you should not have to do anything but simple mahnince.
thank for your time
Randall W. Czapla
Edmunds offers a handy spell-check feature for every time you post a message, and it has saved me from saying the wrong thing on many occasions.
Good luck!
kw
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
I leased a 99 GCL V8 4x4 QD with just about every option available. I've put on 38k miles, and I consider almost all of the service I've had to be routine maintenance: faithful oil changes with SYNTHETIC oil (be good to your engine, it's expensive); 2x transmission service; 2x transfer case and front/rear differential service; 1x cooling system service. At one point the rear end began to howl when making tight radius parking maneuvers, but the rear end service cleared that one up. It seems there was water in there (must have been from the last creek crossing, oops). But, just to add some spice to life, the mechanic at the dealership failed to properly reconnect the speed sensor, which slipped free on my way back from a weekend in the desert watching the Leonid meteor shower, leaving me to limp home in third gear. No, I wasn't happy about that, but I was glad to find out it was human error and not mechanical failure. File that one under that's life."
RE: brake problems
One month ago I had my first brake service, and yes it was because the rotors were slightly warped and the mild shuddering was bothering me. I had all four rotors turned and now the brakes are as smooth as glass, same as when I brought it home on day 1. I think that record is acceptable considering the thing weighs more than 4,000 lbs and has seen it's fair share of steep mountain roads while packed to the rafters with fully loaded ice chests and additional equipment strapped on the roof. I haven't done much towing, though. Some of the brake problems listed in the earlier postings might be avoided by reducing the amount of time spent riding the brake pedal, such as you might encounter in stop-and-go traffic. Try downshifting to take some of the load off the brakes. That's what I do. By the way, all brake rotors warp, that's why they must be periodically machined. I file my brake service under standard maintenance.
RE: Reclining Power Seat Motor Clicking
I read in an earlier post (#222) that somebody else experienced this. I inclined the seat to the full upright position at which point the motor began clicking. Dealer replaced the motor under warranty. No more problem. I'm not a huge man, but I do weigh 200+ and have spent many hours in that seat. It's not really surprising to me that the little plastic retainer broke, considering what I put it through. I file this under wear-and-tear.
NON-ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
Now for the unpleasant stuff.
RE: Bump-Stop
In the second month I began to experience the dreaded "bump-stop". If you are unfamiliar with this: while stopped, the truck would suddenly lurch as if bumped from behind, although I never actually went anywhere (foot on the brake and all). Dealer replaced the drive shaft under warranty, which fixed the problem. It has not recurred. They acknowledged that the problem was not uncommon. While I would have preferred no problems at all, this one was fairly minor and easily fixed. File it under no biggie.
RE: Loud Droning or Whirling
At about the four month mark my Jeep began making a loud droning shortly after start-up and engaging first gear. The noise dies out after less than 30 seconds of motoring, during which I notice a loss of power. The same thing occurs when the transmission gets hot, such as when I've been cruising through the mountains on steep dirt roads in low range for a while, or sometimes when doing lots of stop-and-go in rush hour traffic on surface streets. Unfortunately, the symptoms are random and unpredictable in my experience, so when the dealer says he can't reproduce the problem I believe him. I don't know what to do about it, but since it hasn't REALLY caused me any grief other than being loud, I haven't gotten twisted out of shape about it. File it under unresolved issues that will probably get worse.
Many of you describe problems with your Jeeps that sound pretty mundane, and might even be due to the manner in which you are treating your vehicle. I've certainly caused some of my own problems. But there are also some of you that seem to have legitimate gripes about problems that are downright scary (death wobble, electrical shutdown). I feel bad for those of you in that category because you will never know much fun it can be to own a Grand Cherokee. To the rest of you, have you ever owned a perfect vehicle? If so, why aren't you driving it?
As for the Edmunds.com web site, I love it. It's great to be able to go into the dealership armed with the knowledge these people give me about what's available on my vehicle of choice and how much I should expect to pay for it. These forums are also useful so I can get an idea of what to expect for maintenance. Thanks, and keep up the great work. I plan to take the information I learned with me to the dealership and buy a new Jeep Grand Cherokee!
A low or dead battery seems to be the cause and these people have been saying that you should check the battery for a proper charge and to make sure the battery connections are clean and tight. Failing that, the majority reported that replacing the battery clears the problem up.
You may want to try this first. At most, you'll be out the cost of a new battery... which is considerably less than the dealer will charge you to find and fix the problem. They'd probably replace the battery themselves anyway.
gmanich... very well said!
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Good luck! ;0)
BTW, the JGC is not the only vehicle with this problem. Many GM cars have the same problem and the same solution.
As for the rear end noise, if you hear an oscillating noise coming from the rear, especially under load (like going up a hill) but you don't hear it while on a flat surface with reduced load, believe it or not it MAY just be the exhaust note, i.e. the way the exhaust sounds. There's no fix short of a re - engineered exhaust system. But then again, with an oscillating exhaust note, there's really no mechanical problem either.
Hope it helps!!
It doesn't matter what you do to try and prevent this from happening when the rotor material itself is of poor quality. That's the REAL problem with OEM brake rotors today.
As we all know, braking is done by friction... which also generates heat. There's no escaping this. If the material can't stand the heat then you're out of luck. At best, you can learn better braking habits that will cut down on excessive rotor heat but you can't prevent this simple law of physics from occuring.
At today's shop labor rates, are you sure you want your service tech spending 15-20 minutes every 5K miles doing this? And then still have to pay for new rotors when they eventually warp anyway? Save your money and spend it on any decent set of aftermarket rotors when the time comes. It will probably be the last set of rotors you buy.
FRONT BRAKE PULSATION DURING LIGHT TO MODERATE BRAKE APPLICATION
Date: 5/13/02
Bulletin # 0500302 (supercedes 0500501 Dated Sep 14, 2001)
Model Year(s): 1999-2002 (models built May 11, 2002 and prior)
Description: Brake roughness or pedal pulsation when the brakes are applied. The customer may experience a vibration of the steering wheel, floor, seat, instrument panel, or a minor pedal pulsation (brake roughness) under light to moderate pedal application. The condition may be caused by excessive thickness variation of the brake rotor surface.
Details: This bulletin involves the replacement of both front brake rotors and caliper assemblies.
Parts required:
52098672 Rotor
05093174AA Caliper kit (2 calipers, pads and retaining bolts)
http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb.htm#0500302
I replaced my rotors with Bendix rotors from Advanced Auto. Had to use a hammer to knock the old rotors off of the hub as heat had caused them to rust to the hub. But more importantly, I found that the slide pin lube had melted away causing the galling I mentioned the last time.
Point being, it's the lack of back and forth movement that causes the contact that causes the heat that causes the rotors to warp. Maintaining free movement is the ONLY thing that will keep the rotors from over heating and warping. It's a pain in the backside but it is far cheaper than replacing rotors constantly or taking a hit on a trade for a different vehicle.
Once the vehicle is in the air, use a Torx T45 (check #) to remove the pins. Remove one at time, re lube and re install. Use a good anti seize compound for lube. If you have a favorite garage, ask the tech to do the work every other oil change. It's really no more difficult that turning a bolt out of a threaded hole. The caliper DOES NOT have to be removed to do this work.
After both pins are re - lubed, ensure that the caliper moves by manually pushing and pulling it back and forth. Should move 1/16 to 1/8 inch. Don't forget to add anti seize compound to the threads of the pins.
This "fix" works... I had the same problem of warped rotors on my 89 Grand Prix and that's what solved the problem.
"I agree that it is disappointing to have the rotors warp, especially on a new vehicle. But cast iron is cast iron and that's what is used to make brake rotors. The stuff that comes on the vehicle meets the same spec as standard aftermarket rotors."
Steve279... it's obvious that OEM rotors DO NOT meet the same spec as aftermarket rotors, or vice-versa. If that was true, we wouldn't be having all those problems with the OEM rotors in the first place, and we wouldn't be solving our OEM rotor problems once and for all by going with aftermarket rotors. All cast iron isn't created equal. And generally, OEM parts are held to a higher quality standard than aftermarket replacement parts. But that's not happening here. The fact of the matter is that OEM rotors use cheaper material in order for the supplier to meet the automaker's demand to reduce cost. That's purely business in today's economy.
I also politely disagree with your theory that keeping the caliper pins lubed to allow free caliper movement is the ONLY thing that will keep the rotors from overheating and warping. It may help reduce the total effect, but I feel that learning and using proper braking techniques will go a lot further to reduce this problem. Notice that I say "reduce the problem"... there's no way to eliminate it entirely.
If you or anyone else feels better about lubing these pins, then by all means do so. Me? I don't have the time, inclination or money to spend on something that at best is only going to prolong the inevitable. As I said before, that money would be better spent solving the problem once and for all with a decent set of aftermarket rotors. That's just my 2 cents worth.