Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

jenw · November 2005

I have a 1998 JGC Laredo 5.2L V8 all time 4x4. It has 125K on it and still runs great. I started only driving it periodically after gas prices became stupid. With the inactivity I started seeing drops of transmission fluid under it. The leaking started getting worse as time went on. I see where it is leaking on the back of the tranny, I think it is a worn out gasket. I also see fluid dripping off the tranny pan but for the life of me I can't see where it is coming from. My question is...how hard is it to replace the gasket on the back of the tranny and on the pan? Will I have to drop the entire tranny? How long would it take a non experienced person to do it? I've never worked on the tranny before so I'm a little apprehensive about it. I replaced the water pump awhile back on my own as my brother said "it isn't that difficult". I will never take his word for working on any vehicle again.......Took me 4 days to replace it and to get it to stop leaking fluid after the install.

sobbad · November 2005

Didnt see any other post with this problem so here goes. It is an intermittent problem so its hard to fix. While driving at normal speeds the tranny acts like its going in and out of lock-up. You can watch the tach and it will jump up 200-500 and then back to normal. This will continue until you speed up and the vehicle downshifts or hit the overdrive button. Seems like it does it worse while cold but also does it hot. I can drive sometimes a week and no problem and then do it everyday for a week. Any suggestions.

kapgcp · November 2005

I don't know if this will help you or not but I had a similar problem after taking my 2001 JGC in for repairs. Everything worked fine when I dropped it off then the mechanic called and asked if I had any problems in the past with my power windows to which I replied no. Anyways to make a long story short I found that the problem was caused by the hood lamp being disconnected. Not only did my power windows stop working but also the interior lights, temperature reading on the overhead, miles till empty, trip counter automatic headlamps, seat memory etc. One plug caused all of those problems. I would also check fuse number 7 which is a 10 amp fuse that is tied to all of these options. The mechanic spent over 8 hours (which he did not charge me for) to look for the problem. When I told him what I had found he said they unplugged it to keep the battery from dieing while they worked on the engine.

rnicodemus · November 2005

I have a 1990 jeep cherokee that will completly die when I come to a complete stop at a light. When it dies I can then just start it right back up in neutral. I'm thinking that it might have something to do with the idle because if I do stop and it does not die the car will tend to shake somewhat. Anyone have an idea? Thanks.

jenw · November 2005

My husband decided to be lazy and drive my Jeep today. He was too lazy to put gas in his car so he took the only vehicle that doesn't have full coverage on it. Of course, he wasn't paying attention and had a "little" accident. I'm looking at bare minumum replacement of my drivers side front panel, hood, bumper, headlight assembly, turn signal, etc. Anyone have a good place to by these types of parts to be installed privately?

tomc21 · November 2005

Honugirl asks if anybody has experienced the problem of a Grand Cherokee stalling out shortly after starting (same problem I'm now experiencing). Your reply about "death wobble" doesn't seem to make sense here? What about stalling out right after starting?

blkhemi · November 2005

Ebay.com has all of the parts you're searching for.

rlamca · November 2005

Your lockup siloniod has gone bad. It is located inside the tranny under pan. "GET IT FIXED" befor long the trans wont shift at all, and it will burn fast '

kassieory · November 2005

i currently have the same problem with the quadratrac 2 transfer case, on my 02 grand cherokee, i have already replaced the drivers wheel bearing and axle, at seperate times, due to this problem, i think it should be a dealer problem. i would now never suggest anyone ever buy a jeep from now on. i work on newer vehicles everyday and never knew of the problems with a jeep until i owned one. i thought they were good. too bad, please help with any solutions to my problem. of course this is not the only problem with the truck. the motor ticks at idle too, imagine that. any answers?

flee1145 · November 2005

I have a 1988 Jeep Cherokee that does that too! Seems the idle is not high enough. I have been told that the idle adjusts automatically, can't set it like other cars.I know I need an accelerator/throttle cable, and hope when that is replaced it will fix the problem. Have you checked yours? I should know more early next week. I believe mine has to be in park to start back up, does not work in neutral, but not for sure. Another thing that's happening is sometimes it doesn't get fire to start........can't get it to happen when it's at the garage, so they can check it then! AWK!

fish1205 · November 2005

My 89 Cherokee 4.0 liter intermittently dies or won't start after short trips. I've replaced the alternator, gas filter, wires, and distributor cap and can't seem to locate the problem. It's like possessed! It is getting gas so there seems to be some sort of problem with the spark?

kmack1 · November 2005

I actually had the same problem! I have a 2000 JGC and was driving tonight, heard an explosion, got out to look and saw my car was pouring out fluid. when i looked under the hood, i saw pieces everywhere. all i could figure was a fan exploded and took out everything in its path including my radiator. i am going to contact jeep tomorrow. let me know if you have heard anything.

68firebird · November 2005

I have the same problem. Car will crank but takes about a minute to start. This is the killer...If I rock the car and turn the car to the on position, I can hear the fuel pump for a sec or two and the car will start perfectly and will re-start after running for 15-20 minutes. I live in NJ and noticed the problem when the temp dropped below 60 degrees. Seem similar to your problem?

68firebird · November 2005

I'm having the identical problem. To add to it when I rock the car, in most instances, will trigger turning on the fuel pump when the ignition is in the on position. I thought it may be the relay. Any progress on your end?

myjeepsucks96 · November 2005

my nightmare started after my stereo was stolen, my "friend" installed a new one, and tried to rewire for the speakers.Yes, I know this wasn't the best idea, however FIVE shops have not been able to determine cause. My driver side windows work 99% of time, power lock on driver only. Occaisionally passenger windows will work, but only until the next time you turn off the car.Once a month the entire instrument panel will not work , and will come back at it's convenience, usually after an hour of being left alone. Funny thing is, the radio always works, and the windows and locks are good, just not getting power. WHAT IT ISN'T: master switch, relays, wiring (most has been replaced in doors). What the heck can I do? any help very appreciated!! ps. I just read about the hood light, will check. I do know there is a ground behind the radio, and all my fuses are good (BOTH fuse panels)

trickster · November 2005

Remove the idle air control sensor, and clean the tip of it, and clean the inside where it came from on the throttle body. Varnish and such makes this sensor stick, and gives the ecm a faulty reading, resulting in stalls.

hope this helps you.

P.S you may have to replace the idle air control sensor. good luck m8.

trickster · November 2005

I would suggest that you take the vehicle in to a dealership to have the transmission put onto a scope to check all the sensors(20+ of them). While they have the vehicle there, have them change the fiter, and adjust the bands,(forward and reverse); as these bands can be adjusted manually.

hope this helps you m8.

trickster · November 2005

I suspect the problem lies in your electronic fuel pump foot-valve,( a one-way valve ), it keeps the fuel in the line from draining back into the tank. Unless this problem really, and i DO mean really, bothers you then you can replace the electronic fuel pump. This operation takes about 4 hours, and $200; NOT to mention that you will be discarding a nearly-pefectly good pump.

Most pumps are not re-servicable, and need to replaced as a whole. You might want to check to see if you have a slight fuel leak at any and all connections on the fuel lines from and to the fuel tank; as this may be the culprit. most leaks occur at the fuel filter, as this gets changed frequently.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · November 2005

First of all, can you see where the bolt has to go into?
If you can then try this. This requires two people and some patience. One person has to align the exhaust pipe in relation to where you want it to be, next get a piece of rubber hose and insert it over the bolt to give you a reachable extra hand. Sometime the hose is not completely straight, so a piece of wooden doweling inserted into the hose is quite helpfull in helping to thread the bolt in correctly. With a little trial and error you should be able to accomplish your task at hand. P.S. the rubber hose also will prevent you from cross-threading the bolt, which can lead to more problems and headaches, and lots of swearing.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · November 2005

As for question #1, your front wheel bearings are going out, and fast. Regardless of of which side, it does not matter, both sides will need to be replaced. This is a common problem on most 2 wheel drive suv's. You did not specify if the vehicle is a 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive. If this is a four-wheel drive jeep, then post it on the forums, as i will be watching.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

nickmus · November 2005

i bought a 98 grand cherokee limited and i was looking foward to the heated seats, BUT they dont work?! Im hoping its just a fuse or something simple. I was wondering if a dealership would laugh at me if even asked about getting them fixed, does anyone think its possible?

trickster · November 2005

This is not normal whatever anyone says.
1. check, and replace the fluid,if required(usually after 10 months), and use the correct fluid, and friction modifer if needed.
2. Check all the connections to the rear differential to make sure that it is not moving in any way other than it should be. The rear diff should not move left to right, or back and forth.
3.Do you hear the rear diff howl? IE:Can you hear the rear diff wind up and down as the vehicle accelerates and decellerates; this sounds like a pronounced humm.
If so, then the rear diff bearings need to be changed, and not just some of them, all of them; front and rear pinion bearings,carrier bearings,axle bearings and seals, and a new crush sleeve, not to mention that the rear pinion bearing had to be removed with a press, and the new one pressed on. AND, the crush sleeve has to be set with a rotational torque wrench(only available from a dealership), if this is not done correctly, then it has to be disassembled and a new crush sleeve inserted.
What is a crush sleeve, and what does it do? A crush sleeve determines the the amount of back-lash, and front-lash, that is needed to keep the gears properly meshed according to acceleration and decelleration.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · November 2005

Does the control panel located in front of the shift lever tell you to service the 4 wheel drive switch, if so then the vehicle speed sensor needs to be replaced. Now there are two sensors on JGC that you need to be aware of, one is the vehicle speed sensor, and the other is a sensor that works in conjunction with the v.s.s., and is located on,in,around the front diff(so i have been told, but have never seen it.)
I suspect the v.s.s at 95%. Be aware that changing the v.s.s. is easy, as long as you DO NOT take the housing off the transfer case. If you do take the housing off, mark the relationship of the V.S.S housing to the transfer case, as this is crucial to the sensor and the info it transmits to the E.C.M.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · November 2005

Most flasher replacments are not necessary due to the fact that when the flasher does not work it has to do with a burned out bulb, or a bulb with the wrong resistance factor; any bulbs that you change should be obtained directly from the dealership and not from any auto parts store, as those bulbs do not posess the same resistance qualities as those of mopar manufactures. Stupid huh? I agree.

If you DO need to replace the flasher; then heed this warning: the airbag is armed, and can deploy at anytime the battery is connected.Disconnect the battery, and wait AT least 2 minutes(the system has a back-up capacitor that must fully discharge).
The flasher is located in the fuse/relay box just left of the steering column. When the flasher unit is functioning correctly, you can hear it click. If it does not click on one side or the other, then a faulty turn signal bulb is indicated. If both signals fail to blink, the problem may be due to a blown fuse, a faulty flasher unit, a broken switch, or a loose or open connection.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · November 2005

These leaks that you are having can be from a few different issues. You will probably have to change the tranny pan gasket( which is easy,but messy), while your there, change the filter. As for the rear seal, this requires that you take off the rear driveshaft, remove the transfer case, and replace the rear tranmission seal; Then, put it all back together.Sounds easy huh? well it's not.

If you have a compentent mechanic,hubby,neighbour,ect.. then have them do the work for you, and you will save ALOT of $ on this repair, as this is more time, than money. I always spend the $20 on buying a Haynes repair manual, as this will tell you everything on how and why of most(if not all) problems that you will ever have.

If,(and i doubt) this problem occurs again in the next 2-3 months, then the vent hose or the vent itself(located at the end of the hose) is plugged, or the hose has collapsed on itself.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · November 2005

I need more info on you vehicle. Is it throttle body injected, multi-port injected? All and any info would be sooooooooo much help in this matter.

This sounds like there is an ignition heating problem due to many, many, possibilities. Unless you can provide more(as much as possible would be apperiated) info, then i am as confused as you.

I watch these forums everyday, (as of today)

trickster · November 2005

This may be a fuse problem, or this could be a simple wiring harness problem. First check under the seats to see if all the connections are properly connected, then check all your fuses. Another possiblity is that the previous owner(s) changed the seats to achieve the same smile on your face that you are looking forward to; but the software installed in the E.C.M. does not support this feature.

To find out if your particular vehicle was in fact factory equipped with heated seats then take the VIN # to a dealership to get all info(get them to give you a print out, as this will prove invaluable in the future, for many reasons), and proceed from there.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · November 2005

What you done here my friend is confused the hell out of you operating system in your ECM.
BY changing some wiring around you have changed the voltages, and signals to the ECM,(that reqire precise voltages),which now has created havoc in the ECM's software.

I am very suprised that you vehicle is still running, really, i am.

When JGC came out, it was based on the principle that everything involved in the unit acts as a whole, and not as an independent unit, thus reducing processing timing in the software and hardware,creating faster, more precise decision-making capabilities than the older models. This in a nutshell means: better fuel economy, better handling, better braking,ect.ect...

You had better put everything that you have taken out/ unistalled back to the way it was.AND THEN go to a dealership to have your original software in the ECM uninstalled, and re-installed to factory specs.

This i suspect MAY fix your problem.
You have thrown a monkey wrench into a well oiled machine.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

eljeep · November 2005

I seem to have the same problem on my 98 GC, I don't see the tacho move, but it feels like the engine is misfiring. it does it only going up slight hills on low gas opening, and as with yours, it dissapears if you push the overdrive button or press the gas further to make it rev up.
Now there are at least two of us with this problem.
I have changed the tranny oil and filter, and have adjusted the bands with no results.
My transmission also whines or whistles as I begin to move in low, this fades away as it changes to second gear and so on.
Does yours do the same?. Could it be related?

97jeeper · November 2005

i have had a problem recently with my headlights and all dashlights flashing while driving at night with the automatic headlight switch on. it also makes this clicking noise while all lights are flashing in sequence. i am not sure if my turn signals were flashing along with the headlights and the dashlights. the first time it stopped on it's own after about 5 seconds of flashing and clicking. this most recent time, it did not. while it was flashing, i turned the headlight switch from automatic to manual and it stopped the flashing. does anyone know what is causing this? i can't afford to take it to a dealership right now. thanks for your help!!!!

gbogner · November 2005

I have two 93 GC Jeeps. I have been having a problem starting one of them after it sets over night. I have found that when I turn on the key to run I dont hear the fuel pump but if I wait for about one minute it will kick on and the engine will start. I have checked:
The fuel pump pressure and it tests out to factory specs.
I tested the wiring at the pump while someone turned the key on and found out that there wasnt power so I swapped the fuel pump relay from the other vehicle but that didnt help.
I checked to make sure that there is a good ground at the computer.
I replaced the ignition switch and that didnt help either.
Any ideas what else I could look at?

flee1145 · November 2005

Yes, I have had my '88 Cherokee towed twice, we get there, and the darn thing starts right up! I did have it not start long enough to find some of the time there is no fire, but then it starts up again! No rhyme or reason to it. The mechanic needs it to not start for futher testing, but thinks it may be sensor or coil.....still waiting to find out if I make it to work and back. This has been going on for months! Next time it happens, I will get a ride, and go back and start it the next day~!

torney · November 2005

TEMPERATURE REMAINS COLD REGARGLESS OF THE POSITION OF TEMPERATURE KNOB. HEARD THAT IT COULD BE THE TEMP DOOR OR TEMP DOOR STOP. IF SO IS THAT A MAJOR REPAIR JOB

sobbad · November 2005

No mine doesnt whine or whistle. But the tach on mine moves. It jumps from say 1900 to 2300 constantly unless I accelerate or depress overdrive. I am thinking its the lock up in the convertor but not sure.

billyoverman · November 2005

Has anyone else with a JGC experienced loud noises coming from the front end while the Jeep is idle? Once the engine warms up and I come to a stop, you can hear what sounds like a worn fan belt squealing. I took it in under warranty two weeks ago and they replaced both front pulley's. Now, it started again over the weekend. I have an appointment Wednesday to drop it off at the dealer, but I was wondering if anyone else had problems like this?? Between the this problem and the ever consuming rotor issue, I'm about ready to get rid of her. Unfortunately, the new JGC body style has depreciated her even more...

williepp · November 2005

Was driving down the road when I came to a yield sign I slowed down and when I tried to accelerate the engine just revved up. When I got the jeep home and jacked up the rear end no matter what drive gear it's in the wheels still spin in either direction. works good in park.

gbogner · November 2005

I had a noise similar to what you describe and I found a short piece of vacuum hose coming off the intake manifold that was leaking.
Hope thats what the problem is!

stevern · November 2005

Nick, what was the error code that you recieved from the OBDII reader? My 03 JGC light just came on as well at 35k miles. Thanks.

armen6 · November 2005

I took our new JGC to the dealer for an oil change and they said the discount doesn't apply to the promo since the HEMI takes "special white oil?" like 5w-20. Is this in the manual or is he trying to squeeze and extra $45 for this lube job?? My wife took it to ETD and they said that's a load of manure.

fsuguy · November 2005

I have a 2-wheel drive man. Thank your for the help. Also, what do you think about question #2?

flee1145 · November 2005

This reply is to trickster for his sugestion # 2181, Nov 12, in referrence to #2171 & #2175 Nov 9 and Nov 11th. My '88 Jeep Cherokee was stalling at slow down and stops as well. It was also not starting intermittenly like the guy who said his was possessed! Well we did clean the idle air control sensor for the stalling and replaced the crank shaft sensor for the not starting.... so thanks trickster, and I hope this helps someone else!

trickster · November 2005

what the heck was question # 2. again?

cruzzer · November 2005

I just did that on my 96' GC ltd this summer and what a beeoch! I was able to use my right hand and with the tips of 2 fingers lay that nut on the top of the flange and by using a sockt wiht 3 extensions slowly turn the bolt until it mysteriosly and "magically" threaded itself after only spending 4 minutes trying!!! I thought for sure once I took this apart I would be at this for hours.. Lucky me and god luck to you.
By ths way I could never totally get my oil pan out of there..I had to clean the gasket surfaces by feel! Did yours?

coachman · November 2005

This may not make any sence but I have a 1998 Grand Chrokee and it will die while driving and as soon as I get it parked it will start again. I watch the grease monkey jiggle the wire harness and it will start or die if it is running. What do I need to do? :confuse:

boldknight · November 2005

I just purchased this vehicle out of state from a dealer. The only problem I am having is I can barely get the shift out of Park. I press on the brake, then puch on the release on the shifter, and it takes two hands and really jerking on the shift lever to get it out of Park. Anyone have any ideas on resolving this issue?

jcataline · November 2005

Thanks for the info trickster. I replaced the vss and everything seems to be working fine. (cost me $40 at Auto Zone). Thanks again

fsuguy · November 2005

For about two weeks I have been hearing a rattling noise when I press the gas pedal. It sounds like maybe I put bad gas in, but does anyone have any idea?

tomczentak · November 2005

My blower motor stopped working except for the high speed. I replaced the resistor unit. The blower worked for 5 minutes at all speeds. The coils in the resistor glowed red (one at a time depending on the speed selected). Then the blower stopped (except for the high speed). Any ideas on what is causing the resistor to burn out? Too much voltage?

Thanks

michiana · November 2005

Keep it on manual, no harm until you forget to turn them off.
I had problems with cabin lights before and I spent sometime going through the relays. The relays would be my first place to start because 1)easiest, 2)if the headlight switch has some affect, the problem is inside the car (as opposed to the entire electrical system grounding out), but who knows, maybe there is a short that is killing the entire circuit; you should watch and see if certain things stay on (radio, gauges, cruise ctrl?).
If the whole system shorts, or grounds, what would actually be happening is a piece of metal shorts the system, heats up and bends away or is shaken away, and does it over and over making a steady beat.
I think it would be better to have a loose or faulty relay that you can jiggle around and put back in place. These relays are small (inch cubed) boxes with pins sticking out of them. In my 93 GC there are relays located under a panel in the glovebox, under the passenger side dash, and a few under the driver dash. Take a screwdriver and go to town on all the plastic panels that cover them up.
Go to the library and look for their vehicle information data (some big old books) and look up GC info on headlight relay/circuits.
I'd just use the manual light switch if I didn't have time or motivation to find some relays.
Good luck!

michiana · November 2005

It's been about 6 months since you posted this.
Some reasons the lights stay on: 1) It thinks a door is open (you said this is not true) 2) It is getting a faulty message from the wireless entry (you know how the lights go on when you unlock it, right) 3) Cabin light switch is faulty (probably not since it goes off when you start it)
I feel your pain about taking that fuse out to keep it from draining. I just kept it out because they're so hard to wiggle in and out.
If you have problems with your wireless entry, or automatic locks I think that is the starting point. I have very limited experience with this, so good luck!

Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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