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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kengaroo1kengaroo1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 4.0. It died on me and it tested out that the crank sensor needed replacing. Took it to a AAA shop and had it replaced..$350.00 Canadian. Made it home, but it ran like crap several days later, missing and such. Took it to 3 different shops, and they replaced everything possible, including the last shop who replaced the crank sensor again..a NAPA brand one. Thought the problem was solved until I tried to pass people, and it started missing again under engine load. Both crank sensors left my vehicle running like crap in different conditions, even after spending a total of $1500 to this point. Read on here someone said to replace sensitive parts, like a crank sensor, with FACTORY PARTS. After deciding to spend another $123 for a Chrysler made crank sensor and installing it myself, the Jeep has run PERFECTLY for the last 8000 miles. Spend a couple dollars more for these type of parts...it's worth every cent in the long run.
  • ticketmaster96ticketmaster96 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2004 jgc and when i shift to reverse it sounds like a dying dog..Dealer said that was normal does any one else have this prob..
  • tanortanor Member Posts: 1
    Greetings,
    MY 98 JGC is drawing back when i'm on the gas at around 70 mph...like it stops getting gas it just seems to stall out..it usually ( i say usualy but this has happened only twice to me but both times within this past week..this is a new condition)will "take a breath" and then continue driving down the road, however when my wife was driving today she said it stalled out completely...is this fuel pump or injector related or god forbid tranny...any suggestions please? someone suggested water in the lines...any other thoughts thanks in advance ~Tanor
  • jcatalinejcataline Member Posts: 6
    I have a 95JGC with the same problem. I have a Haynes book which I've had since I bought the vehicle in '95. It says to check the thermostat and cooling sensor etc. I'am going to try these remedies and I'll let you know what works. (that Haynes book is probably the best book I've ever purchased)
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    This noise sounds very similar to what i call: time to spend some cash noise.
    I believe what you are hearing is the catalytic converter(located on the exhaust, before the muffler), going kaput.
    To check if in fact this is the problem, let the engine idle, and go underneath the vehicle, passenger side(where the c.c is located, most times) and give it a good kick. If you hear the tell-tale "rattle" that you have been hearing, then that is the culprit.
    Catalytic converters have "sponge-like" packing inside them,that when they start to wear out, they rattle. This noise will become more pronounced as time goes on.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    I do believe the bearing in your water pump is going out.
    This noise that you hear(belt squealing) is a tell-tale sign that the water pump is ready to be replaced; the only other way to tell is to check by hand(when the motor is warm and NOT running) the water pump to see if there is any fluid leaking out from eithier "weep" hole located on the housing on top, and bottom.

    If this is not the problem, then you have a pulley issue that needs to be addressed.
    As for the rotor problem, this a problem that is quite common in the year of your JGC, and I think that there is a recall on your particular year to address this. If there is not, then replacing the rotors with an after-market product will probably be your best bet. The GM rotors are of poor quality, and wrong metal alloys configuration, thus resulting in warped rotors all the time.
    P.S. when replacing the rotors, replace the brake pads also.Replacment rotors for your unit come in two types, normal and high end; DOn'T cheap out.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    This could be from a few different problems....
    I would suggest that you take the vehicle to a reputable tranny specialist, and have them check the forward and reverse bands (these can be adjusted manually), and have them change the filter(as a dirty filter starves the unit of oil). If the vehicle does not move at all in any gear, then your transmission is toast. A rebuild is costly, but if your going to keep the vehicle, this is the route i would take. A good used tranny is also what i would call a good investment, considering that you keep the maintaince up on it.
    P.S. The bands(as mentioned above) are to be tourqed to a specific setting. Almost always these torque settings are in inch-pounds, not foot-pounds, and any mechanic or otherwise that tells you different than that, should NOT be trusted. Torqueing these bands incorrectly can, and will result in un-repairable damage.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    The first thing that you should look at is the shifter linkage that connects the shifter to the transmission. You may have to take the center console off and to get at this. It sounds like this is binding up on you, and needs to be re-greased, or just loved a little with wd-40. The linkage should be inspected from the shifter, all the way to where it enters the tranmission, as a damaged or bent section will probably be the culprit.

    Hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Yes too much voltage. Connect a voltmeter to the blower motor connector. Move the blower switch through each of it's positions and see if the volts change with each setting. The high postion will bypass the resistor and supply a full 12 volts. Most times the problem is the switch itself. Connect one end of a jumper wire to the terminal of the switch with voltage. Connect the other end to each one of of the terminals that supply voltage to the resistor block. If the motor operates normally, replace the switch.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • boldknightboldknight Member Posts: 3
    I have the same year and problem? I have noticed if my idle is at about 8000 to 9000 it doesn't drop that low to cause the check guages light to come on. It seems it is a true "Grimlin" and it never happened to me beore. I have 77,800 on mine.

    :confuse:
  • cycobmxbikercycobmxbiker Member Posts: 4
    im 17 and just bought a 97 limited grand cherokee yesterday i want 2 shift it into low 4x4 and it grinned. i had it in park wen i tried to shift it. im brand new at owning a jeep. is there a point i need to pull the lever past? or does it need to be in neutral? if someone can explain to we what i gada do to shift it to 4x4 low that would be great
  • billyovermanbillyoverman Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the tip trickster! When I had it at the dealership this past week they were not able to "re-create" the noise, go figure. I took the mechanic for a quick drive and whenever we stopped, it wouldn't make it then either. I am taking the GC back after the Holiday because they did determine I needed a new power steering pump. Of course, it has made the same noise ever since I brought it back home. I'll pass your comments on to the service dept. and see if they can't get it right this time.
  • jcatalinejcataline Member Posts: 6
    kmack1, a similiar thing happened to me except at a slower speed.(luckily). It turned out to be my harmonic balancer. Picked one up at the auto parts for about $60. Not to hard to replace it. Hope this helps out
  • jcatalinejcataline Member Posts: 6
    torney

    I replaced the thermostat and now I have heat. The inside of the housing was pretty gunked up plus the themostat was pretty rusted. (it's been sitting for almost 2 years) I suggest change out your thermostat first then try your cooling sensor. Good luck
  • cycobmxbikercycobmxbiker Member Posts: 4
    do u hav to back the jeep up for it to engage into 4x4 low i finaly figured out how 2 shift it but now it wont engage any idea what im doin wrong? :confuse:
  • myangell02myangell02 Member Posts: 1
    The following is a list of what all my temperamental baby likes to do at different times, and in unison...The consensus seems to be that it is either in the passenger door sensor workings somehow, or it's a ground, we're kind of running out of ideas though...HELP, please?! It would be greatly appreciated:
    1.My ac on/off button turns itself on and off, I thought it was the Jeep engine circulating, and I'd simply cut the ac back on, but the guy that made these copies didn't think so, said it was messing up too.
    2.My keyless entry, with the alarm, goes out.
    3.All but my door will stop responding to the lock/unlock switches commands, and only mine will work my door.
    4.The dimmer switch/interior lights on/off switch will make the interior lights come on in any position but absolute off, even in the mid switch part, meant to dim/brighten my dash lights.
    5.The right side of the Jeep's windows will completely stop working.
    6.Right front door sensor- sometimes it won't read door is open at all, more often, if the door is opened once the key has even been switched forward-like to listen to radio AND get the air to blow- it will read that the door is ajar until I stop, put the car in park, cut it off, and start it again.
    7.May actually have been very first problem- may be unrelated- when my foglamps are on, sometimes she can't switch into high-beams until I disengage the foglamps.
    8.Right side-view mirror won't work, which may have been done by a friend who wouldn't listen when I told him not to even START to take my passenger door panel off...
    9.I'm 85-90% sure that my rearview mirror is stuck in the constant "dim" or greenish dimming shade mode, though I haven't slowed down to shine a light on its sensor and check.
    10.My right rear door's lock -when my power locks are working- refuses to lock or unlock, when I press the switch about 90% of the time, and any time I press the button to lock or unlock the doors, she makes this loud buzzing sound as you hear the lock try to work.
    11.I've witnessed the glovebox light to not work (not the bulb), and I'm pretty sure the ashtray light has done it too.

    These often happen in groups:
    #2(keyless), 3(door locks), 4(rt windows), and 6(rf door sens) tend to happen together...
    #6(rf door sens) and 4(dimmer/inter. lights) are best friends, one doesn't show itself for long before the other!
    #1(ac), 8(side view mirror), and 9(rearview) all happen BY THEMSELVES...
    #10(back right door lock) is almost always guaranteed to be present, other symptoms or not...
    #7(foglamps/brights) almost always meant my break light would start to act up.
    #11 has been a more recent development, it seems to happen when it wants to once the others have been on constant "fritz" at that time.

    Other:
    Basically, if most things are working, specifically the passenger door windows, no one is to open a door, specifically the passnger door, or cut the engine off without rolling up the windows first, because odds are, by the time you shut that door, or cut the ignition back to battery power, the windows will no longer be working.

    I appreciate anyone who takes the time to read this, I'd really like to have an idea of where to start looking to try and trouble-shoot.

    Thank you ever so much!
    Lauren
  • boldknightboldknight Member Posts: 3
    Thanks m8!!

    I will do that. I am also taking in to a great transmission place and having all the fluids/filters changed. If I can't fix it, I will give them your reply. Thanks loads for the input!

    :D:D:D
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    This sounds like you have an trouble code stored in you ECM, or just bad programming. Take your vehicle to a jeep dealership and ask them to have the jeep put on a scope to check your ECM for any stored trouble codes, and to reset the On-Board Diagonostics (OBD)
    If you have had any after-market parts installed lately ie: car alarm, remote starter,.. ect then these part(s) can have an adverse affect on the ECM code, or programming.
    You may have to have the ECM wiped clean and re-booted with fresh programming. If any after market parts were installed, they may not be compatible with the code, or programming of the ECM, resulting in multiple failures of systems on the vehicle.
    Also have the tech at the dealership do continuity test for ground, and 12 volt, to see if you might have a bad ground, or an open circuit.Always pick the brains of the techs, to find out if, they have heard of this, or similars problems before, as this may give you another avenue of help against your problem.Unforunately, the techs at the dealership, are your best friends with this type of problem(s), and they don't come cheap.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Sound like one of your sensors are going out. I would defenitly go purchase a hanynes repair manual for your particular year and model; spend somtime reading the section about checking the On Board Diagnostics for the sensors. This is easy and everything you need to know is right at your fingertips.
    If your check engine/service engine soon light is on, or comes on, then a sensor needs to be replaced. When a sensor goes out, or is about to go out, then your problem is a tell-tale sign that sensor(s) replacment is nessasary.
    Want the easy, more expensive way out? Take it to a dealership, and have them put it on a scope and reset the codes for you, after they changed the sensor(s).

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • fsuguyfsuguy Member Posts: 5
    I have that same problem; unfortunately, I am scared to find out what it is.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    In order to lock into 4-Lo, you'll need to have the Jeep in Neutral. It will have to be in neutral to take it out of 4-Lo also. You should see the light indicating 4-Lo is engaged.

    P.S.- Remember, 4-Lo is for slippery roads or dirt trails and rocks. You should not EVER try to lock it in on dry pavement. $eriou$ consequences will occur.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    You need to change your V.S.S. (vehicle speed sensor) located on the transfer case(4x4), or the transmission(2x4). Only the sensor needs to be changed, so do not take the v.s.s housing off, for this will cause you many more headaches than you will want to ever have.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • cycobmxbikercycobmxbiker Member Posts: 4
    thanks 4 the help where would this light be? i hav the 97 limited adition. does the 4x4low symbol come on next to the shifter?
  • red75red75 Member Posts: 3
    Here's an easy one for you guys. I need to change the thermostat in my 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport. I'm a "somewhat" mechanically inclined gal and I want to do it myself to save a few bucks. I've heard it's easy to do, but can you guys give me some pointers? And exactly where is it? I know it's right in front somewhere :)
  • gustavecatgustavecat Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Wrangler that won't start until the auto start relay is done clicking and the it tells the fuel pump relay to close. IT only will start after on-off-on-off-on then wait for the relay to get done clicking and then the fuel pump pressure goes to 40psi. HELP no one can tell me what is wrong. I am afraid to go where jeeps should go because it has refused to start twice.

    Gustavecat of the UP Yoopers
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    Yep, it comes on the VIC screen, which lets you know your're locked in. Happy 4-wheelin.:)
  • digitgirl2digitgirl2 Member Posts: 1
    My car alarm went off the other morning (5am) for no reason 3 times. I finally locked the doors w/out activating the alarm. On my way to work the dome lights flashed on and off and my door locks continually locked and unlocked. This has been going on the last 3 days. I have read all the postings that are similiar to my situation, but have not seen a solution. I replaced the battery about 2 1/2 months ago, so I don't think it needs a new one. Everything else seems to be working fine, ie. radio,windows etc. I'll add it is a stock alarm which only activates when I manually lock from the driver side,stock radio etc..I've never changed anything. I hope someone has any answers for me. :sick: Thanks in advance for any input
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    The thermostat is located under the housing where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine. This is one of the easier repair jobs but you may still want to purchase a manual (about $12 at an auto parts store) which will give you a step by step breakdown of the job. You will want to have a gasket scraper and make sure the new thermostat comes with a new gasket. You have to drain a little bit out of the cooling system, but since the thermostat is high on the engine you don't have to empty the system. Good Luck! :D
  • chung21chung21 Member Posts: 1
    :sick: My ’97 JGC has 115K miles and seems to have the flu. It starts right up and runs fine for about 3 miles before it seems to be suffocating. The tach drops to 0 then a few moments later shots back up to about 1100 at 40-45 MPH. Runs okay for a bit, then stalls before regaining power again. Not sure if it’s related, but the gas gage reads okay then all of a sudden it drops to empty and dings. It does this off and on throughout a tank of gas. Check engine light comes on and stays on also.
  • mpeacempeace Member Posts: 1
    Two weeks ago the rear end was rebuilt in my "03 GC. Now the service department is telling me I need an upper ball joint and both shocks to get rid of the "clunking" noise the vehicle has made since the rear end repairs. It only makes the noise when you hit a rough spot or go over a bump. I have approximately 50,600 of straight up raod driving on my Jeep. Am I being skeptical or is this just bad timing on the repairs? Shouldn't the tech have heard this noise after original repairs were made?
  • roxy4golfroxy4golf Member Posts: 1
    :sick:

    My engine light recently came on. With the snow, I turned off O/D to slow down faster on slippery roads. Is there any reported issues with the 04 SEs and the O/D feature? Am I safe to continue to drive the vehicle until I take it in on Monday?

    Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    For what it is worth, my '97 JGC also occasionally does the gas gauge empty and ding thing on and off. In my case it almost always is when I have a full tank but I do not get an engine light and the engine always continues to run fine.
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    If you are getting an engine light, take it to your local auto parts store. Most these days will run a diagnostic test on it for free telling you what parts are acting up. More than likely you have one or more sensors giving bad info. to the engine computer.
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Member Posts: 45
    I believe you may have a display box located at the center bottom of your dash, in front of your shifter. It should have a picture of your jeep drive train indicating what mode the vehicle is in.Flat screen near lighter plug?
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Member Posts: 45
    Just wondering if it is better to attempt changing my transfer case gastket and pan gasket to my trans or take it to the shop. Neither look to hard to do, BUT , the transfer case scares me alittle since I'v never done one.Any thoughts?Any tips on doing this job? Thanks in advance.This would be on my 96jeep grand cherokee. Just started leaking from both gaskets. Been a great vehicle. 88000 and still running strong. Like it so much, bought a 2004 limited new. 14000 on it and everything is great.
  • rebeccaorebeccao Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 GCLTD - Selectrac, it has been nothing but problems, and I love it so much. When you go to change out of 4WD, it bunnyhopps, and clunks and sounds like the whole thing is going to fall apart (of course every man who has ever gotten into it has to change it). I've been driving in 4WD for a year now, which is fine, but.....last year, someone put two different sized tires on the front, and just after there was a terrible clunking in the front passenger side. It continues to clunk, and now its started a squeeking sound (I roll up the windows not to hear it). Finally, the drivers door doesn't close properly, and my locks click continually, and now I've been told the catalytic converter is broken off inside (Of course my e-test is scheduled already). WHAT'S GOING ON WITH IT? I've replaced the ball joint, rad, had the transfer case fluid checked, and of course, changed the tires. I'm scared to take it in, afraid I'm going to have to re-mortgage my house to fix it? Any suggestions or help would be appreciated.........
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    Have you considered calling the QE2 cruise ship to find out of they are one anchor short???... ;) :shades: ;)
  • johncdnrockiesjohncdnrockies Member Posts: 33
    Been a lurker up to now and find this site very helpful. My thanks to all with answers. I have a '96 GCLtd with ~160,000 miles. Had my share of differential problems but Chrysler has been good and I continue to love her dearly.

    I'm looking at replacing tires (already checked Edmund's prior threads) and will be opting for Michelin 10-ply truck tire (did this previously and they last forever). Since they are pricey, I'm wondering whether I need to do all 4 tires at the same time. One tire (same Michelin 10-ply) was replaced about 20,000 miles ago and the tread still looks perfect. btw, these tires seem to go for 100,000+ miles on my Jeep.

    Can I get away with just replacing 3 or should I go with all 4? Lately the rig has been limited to city driving, but I'm looking to use her for highway cruising to the ski hills in the next couple of years.

    Money isn't a killer issue but one always wants to save a buck if possible, particularly as the 4th tire still looks great.
  • 98cherokee98cherokee Member Posts: 1
    Same year, Exact same problem.I had the speed sensor in the tranny replaced but didnt do any good.I'ts a real pain cause it never does it when I get to the shop.Did it last week so bad I thought the tranny was gonna shell out.Please keep me informed if you find the answer to this.Thanks
  • seansjeepseansjeep Member Posts: 14
    If I were you, I would buy 4 new tires and keep the one you talk about for a spare. This way you have a good spare that matches and don't have to worry about un-even wear on your new ones :)

    Good Luck!

    BTW, I have just purchased some BFG All Terrain Tires for my '98 Cherokee Sport and they're just amazing in the snow or on the trails and suprisingly quiet on the highway.
  • eljeepeljeep Member Posts: 2
    I have had this problem for some time, and last week it stopped all on it's own. My car was doing it all the time as soon as I went up a slight slope, I had to press the OD button. One day it stopped. I don't know what caused it or why it stopped. I can only hope it doesn't return.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Changing the pan gasket is easy, and a little messy. You will want to change the trans filter while your there. when you get most of the bolts off, leave two rear bolts on but unthread them half ways, so when you pry the pan off it doesn't spill all over you and anything else. This will drain most of the fluid, and let you take the last two bolts off, without having to balance a pan full of fluid in 1 hand.
    Changing the tranfer case(tc) gasket is a little more work.
    First mark the relationship of the rear driveshaft to the rear differential(so to install it correctly), and remove the driveshaft from the rear diff.(the front part slides out of the tc)
    Remove all wiring, and linkages from the tc, and then remove the tc from the rear of the transmission. There is a rear seal for the transmission, (which is why the tc gasket is leaking), and this will need to be replaced, as well as a new gasket for the tc.
    Be aware that a tranfer case may look small but, this unit is heavy, and should require 2 people to uninstall, and reinstall it. I suggest that you get a Hanyne Repair Manual, as this will give you step by step instructions on how to fix just about everything on your jeep.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Select trac meaning you can change in/out of 2 wheel drive to 4 wheel drive to 4 low?, or does this mean all time 4 wheel drive that can be changed to neutral, or 4 low?
    If it's the first then, you have a problem. I don't suggest that anyone run thier vehicle in 4 wheel drive all year, as would cause $eriou$ problems to the drive train. As for the second one, then this system is built for it, as it has an internal vista clutch that determines when your conditions require true 4x4 times.
    Putting two different sized tires on the front end was a very bad idea to begin with, and probably resulted in you needing some work done to front differential.(putting 2 different sized tires on is like: trying to run a marathon with a 6 inch platform shoe on one side, and nothing on the other).
    The clunking noise you hear from the front passenger side, may be the constant velocity joint, that is part of the front axle, may be worn out and needs to be changed. The whole axle need to be changed, and is relatively easy to do. I have replaced both of mine on a '95 JGC limited, for about $125.00(cnd) per side. As for the squeeling sound, sounds like your low brake pads indicator, may be touching the rotors, indicating that you need to change the brakes. On the other, more expensive hand, You may have caused extensive bearing damage to your front differential, and these will have to be replaced.(these are not easy, or cheap to do). Talk to the dealership about what needs to be done to repair this damage, and post your findings, and mabey i can give you a online hand as to your cheapest and best bet to repairing the damage.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Have you tried to replace the auto start relay itself?
    As time goes on, relays have a tendancy to act finnicky, and will open, close , open ...ect and then work, or not.
    Replace the auto start relay along with the fuel pump relay, and check your fusible links to the fuel pump relay to see if and are burnt. Make sure you check all your fuses, and make sure they are the correct ones for that designated spot.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    You have a bad position sensor in one of your doors. I know, it's worst thing to hear that horn blasting in the middle of the night.
  • gbognergbogner Member Posts: 6
    I guess maybe I wasn’t persistent enough with my question and being new to the forum I probably didn’t use the correct process for posting a question. Every time I clicked on Rules Of The Road nothing happens! Guess this is a private club!

    Never the less, if anyone is interested if found the problem; it was the ECM.
  • gbognergbogner Member Posts: 6
    I had the same problem with my 93 jgc.
    I would turn the key to the crank position and it would turn over but wouldn’t start. I found that if I would turn the key to the run position for a bout 20 to 30 seconds the fuel pump would fire and the engine would start. I checked to see if I had power to the pump when the key was turned on and I was receiving NO power for about 30 seconds.
    Long story short, after trouble shooting this problem for quiet awhile I found that when turning the key to the run position that the check engine light did not come on. After I would wait for a while the light would come on and the pump would fire. The problem turned out to be a lethargic the ECM.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The Rules of the Road link was flaky for me last week - it's supposed to open in a new window. A pop-up blocker may be stopping it from opening on your browser.

    Thanks for adding to the JGC knowledge base!

    Steve, Host
  • shanowshanow Member Posts: 1
    So yesterday my JGC deceided it didn't want to idle. Anything under 5mph and the rpm's would drop, and the car would kill, so I drove around with two feet yesterday. This morning my car won't even start. I charged the battery, and only clicks. Is it something easy, or.... I'll be the first to say I don't know much about this stuff, please help me..
  • plankersplankers Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    I have a '99 JGC Limited with Quadra-drive and the 4.7L V8. I've had it for 8 months, having purchased it used from a private party, and I really enjoy driving it. Recently it's been malfunctioning, and in searching here I haven't seen anything quite like this problems, so hopefully someone will have some insight. The five-star dealer it's with now is stymied.

    One morning last week it wouldn't start, having been running perfectly prior to that. Hauling it to the nearby dealer, they said there was no signal from the camshaft position sensor. They replaced it, along with my front brakes (I mention it in case it's relevant), it fired up. I drove it less than 5 miles and it started stuttering on acceleration once it got warm. I got it to highway speeds, but eventually I had to stop again, and it stalled and would not start.

    I hauled it into the dealer again, who diagnosed it as a crankshaft position sensor failure. They were a bit skeptical of this, because they hadn't seen both fail like that before. They test-drove it successfully but I suspect it wasn't fully warm yet, and it worked fine. I picked it up, drove two miles, and it stuttered and died on acceleration again.

    When it dies my tachometer goes absolutely nuts, and the speedometer drops to zero. The other gauges show accurate readings if I recall correctly. The "check engine" light comes on, and the Jeep will not restart. It will not restart if I let it sit for a while.

    Do you guys have ideas for me to try? I was thinking that maybe it could be fuel-related since it is happening on acceleration, but that's probably just me using old carbureted-engine troubleshooting. Any suggestions are more than appreciated!
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