Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
MY 98 JGC is drawing back when i'm on the gas at around 70 mph...like it stops getting gas it just seems to stall out..it usually ( i say usualy but this has happened only twice to me but both times within this past week..this is a new condition)will "take a breath" and then continue driving down the road, however when my wife was driving today she said it stalled out completely...is this fuel pump or injector related or god forbid tranny...any suggestions please? someone suggested water in the lines...any other thoughts thanks in advance ~Tanor
I believe what you are hearing is the catalytic converter(located on the exhaust, before the muffler), going kaput.
To check if in fact this is the problem, let the engine idle, and go underneath the vehicle, passenger side(where the c.c is located, most times) and give it a good kick. If you hear the tell-tale "rattle" that you have been hearing, then that is the culprit.
Catalytic converters have "sponge-like" packing inside them,that when they start to wear out, they rattle. This noise will become more pronounced as time goes on.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
This noise that you hear(belt squealing) is a tell-tale sign that the water pump is ready to be replaced; the only other way to tell is to check by hand(when the motor is warm and NOT running) the water pump to see if there is any fluid leaking out from eithier "weep" hole located on the housing on top, and bottom.
If this is not the problem, then you have a pulley issue that needs to be addressed.
As for the rotor problem, this a problem that is quite common in the year of your JGC, and I think that there is a recall on your particular year to address this. If there is not, then replacing the rotors with an after-market product will probably be your best bet. The GM rotors are of poor quality, and wrong metal alloys configuration, thus resulting in warped rotors all the time.
P.S. when replacing the rotors, replace the brake pads also.Replacment rotors for your unit come in two types, normal and high end; DOn'T cheap out.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
I would suggest that you take the vehicle to a reputable tranny specialist, and have them check the forward and reverse bands (these can be adjusted manually), and have them change the filter(as a dirty filter starves the unit of oil). If the vehicle does not move at all in any gear, then your transmission is toast. A rebuild is costly, but if your going to keep the vehicle, this is the route i would take. A good used tranny is also what i would call a good investment, considering that you keep the maintaince up on it.
P.S. The bands(as mentioned above) are to be tourqed to a specific setting. Almost always these torque settings are in inch-pounds, not foot-pounds, and any mechanic or otherwise that tells you different than that, should NOT be trusted. Torqueing these bands incorrectly can, and will result in un-repairable damage.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8
Hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
:confuse:
I replaced the thermostat and now I have heat. The inside of the housing was pretty gunked up plus the themostat was pretty rusted. (it's been sitting for almost 2 years) I suggest change out your thermostat first then try your cooling sensor. Good luck
1.My ac on/off button turns itself on and off, I thought it was the Jeep engine circulating, and I'd simply cut the ac back on, but the guy that made these copies didn't think so, said it was messing up too.
2.My keyless entry, with the alarm, goes out.
3.All but my door will stop responding to the lock/unlock switches commands, and only mine will work my door.
4.The dimmer switch/interior lights on/off switch will make the interior lights come on in any position but absolute off, even in the mid switch part, meant to dim/brighten my dash lights.
5.The right side of the Jeep's windows will completely stop working.
6.Right front door sensor- sometimes it won't read door is open at all, more often, if the door is opened once the key has even been switched forward-like to listen to radio AND get the air to blow- it will read that the door is ajar until I stop, put the car in park, cut it off, and start it again.
7.May actually have been very first problem- may be unrelated- when my foglamps are on, sometimes she can't switch into high-beams until I disengage the foglamps.
8.Right side-view mirror won't work, which may have been done by a friend who wouldn't listen when I told him not to even START to take my passenger door panel off...
9.I'm 85-90% sure that my rearview mirror is stuck in the constant "dim" or greenish dimming shade mode, though I haven't slowed down to shine a light on its sensor and check.
10.My right rear door's lock -when my power locks are working- refuses to lock or unlock, when I press the switch about 90% of the time, and any time I press the button to lock or unlock the doors, she makes this loud buzzing sound as you hear the lock try to work.
11.I've witnessed the glovebox light to not work (not the bulb), and I'm pretty sure the ashtray light has done it too.
These often happen in groups:
#2(keyless), 3(door locks), 4(rt windows), and 6(rf door sens) tend to happen together...
#6(rf door sens) and 4(dimmer/inter. lights) are best friends, one doesn't show itself for long before the other!
#1(ac), 8(side view mirror), and 9(rearview) all happen BY THEMSELVES...
#10(back right door lock) is almost always guaranteed to be present, other symptoms or not...
#7(foglamps/brights) almost always meant my break light would start to act up.
#11 has been a more recent development, it seems to happen when it wants to once the others have been on constant "fritz" at that time.
Other:
Basically, if most things are working, specifically the passenger door windows, no one is to open a door, specifically the passnger door, or cut the engine off without rolling up the windows first, because odds are, by the time you shut that door, or cut the ignition back to battery power, the windows will no longer be working.
I appreciate anyone who takes the time to read this, I'd really like to have an idea of where to start looking to try and trouble-shoot.
Thank you ever so much!
Lauren
I will do that. I am also taking in to a great transmission place and having all the fluids/filters changed. If I can't fix it, I will give them your reply. Thanks loads for the input!
If you have had any after-market parts installed lately ie: car alarm, remote starter,.. ect then these part(s) can have an adverse affect on the ECM code, or programming.
You may have to have the ECM wiped clean and re-booted with fresh programming. If any after market parts were installed, they may not be compatible with the code, or programming of the ECM, resulting in multiple failures of systems on the vehicle.
Also have the tech at the dealership do continuity test for ground, and 12 volt, to see if you might have a bad ground, or an open circuit.Always pick the brains of the techs, to find out if, they have heard of this, or similars problems before, as this may give you another avenue of help against your problem.Unforunately, the techs at the dealership, are your best friends with this type of problem(s), and they don't come cheap.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
If your check engine/service engine soon light is on, or comes on, then a sensor needs to be replaced. When a sensor goes out, or is about to go out, then your problem is a tell-tale sign that sensor(s) replacment is nessasary.
Want the easy, more expensive way out? Take it to a dealership, and have them put it on a scope and reset the codes for you, after they changed the sensor(s).
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
P.S.- Remember, 4-Lo is for slippery roads or dirt trails and rocks. You should not EVER try to lock it in on dry pavement. $eriou$ consequences will occur.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
Gustavecat of the UP Yoopers
My engine light recently came on. With the snow, I turned off O/D to slow down faster on slippery roads. Is there any reported issues with the 04 SEs and the O/D feature? Am I safe to continue to drive the vehicle until I take it in on Monday?
Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.
I'm looking at replacing tires (already checked Edmund's prior threads) and will be opting for Michelin 10-ply truck tire (did this previously and they last forever). Since they are pricey, I'm wondering whether I need to do all 4 tires at the same time. One tire (same Michelin 10-ply) was replaced about 20,000 miles ago and the tread still looks perfect. btw, these tires seem to go for 100,000+ miles on my Jeep.
Can I get away with just replacing 3 or should I go with all 4? Lately the rig has been limited to city driving, but I'm looking to use her for highway cruising to the ski hills in the next couple of years.
Money isn't a killer issue but one always wants to save a buck if possible, particularly as the 4th tire still looks great.
Good Luck!
BTW, I have just purchased some BFG All Terrain Tires for my '98 Cherokee Sport and they're just amazing in the snow or on the trails and suprisingly quiet on the highway.
Changing the tranfer case(tc) gasket is a little more work.
First mark the relationship of the rear driveshaft to the rear differential(so to install it correctly), and remove the driveshaft from the rear diff.(the front part slides out of the tc)
Remove all wiring, and linkages from the tc, and then remove the tc from the rear of the transmission. There is a rear seal for the transmission, (which is why the tc gasket is leaking), and this will need to be replaced, as well as a new gasket for the tc.
Be aware that a tranfer case may look small but, this unit is heavy, and should require 2 people to uninstall, and reinstall it. I suggest that you get a Hanyne Repair Manual, as this will give you step by step instructions on how to fix just about everything on your jeep.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
If it's the first then, you have a problem. I don't suggest that anyone run thier vehicle in 4 wheel drive all year, as would cause $eriou$ problems to the drive train. As for the second one, then this system is built for it, as it has an internal vista clutch that determines when your conditions require true 4x4 times.
Putting two different sized tires on the front end was a very bad idea to begin with, and probably resulted in you needing some work done to front differential.(putting 2 different sized tires on is like: trying to run a marathon with a 6 inch platform shoe on one side, and nothing on the other).
The clunking noise you hear from the front passenger side, may be the constant velocity joint, that is part of the front axle, may be worn out and needs to be changed. The whole axle need to be changed, and is relatively easy to do. I have replaced both of mine on a '95 JGC limited, for about $125.00(cnd) per side. As for the squeeling sound, sounds like your low brake pads indicator, may be touching the rotors, indicating that you need to change the brakes. On the other, more expensive hand, You may have caused extensive bearing damage to your front differential, and these will have to be replaced.(these are not easy, or cheap to do). Talk to the dealership about what needs to be done to repair this damage, and post your findings, and mabey i can give you a online hand as to your cheapest and best bet to repairing the damage.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
As time goes on, relays have a tendancy to act finnicky, and will open, close , open ...ect and then work, or not.
Replace the auto start relay along with the fuel pump relay, and check your fusible links to the fuel pump relay to see if and are burnt. Make sure you check all your fuses, and make sure they are the correct ones for that designated spot.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
Never the less, if anyone is interested if found the problem; it was the ECM.
I would turn the key to the crank position and it would turn over but wouldn’t start. I found that if I would turn the key to the run position for a bout 20 to 30 seconds the fuel pump would fire and the engine would start. I checked to see if I had power to the pump when the key was turned on and I was receiving NO power for about 30 seconds.
Long story short, after trouble shooting this problem for quiet awhile I found that when turning the key to the run position that the check engine light did not come on. After I would wait for a while the light would come on and the pump would fire. The problem turned out to be a lethargic the ECM.
Thanks for adding to the JGC knowledge base!
Steve, Host
I have a '99 JGC Limited with Quadra-drive and the 4.7L V8. I've had it for 8 months, having purchased it used from a private party, and I really enjoy driving it. Recently it's been malfunctioning, and in searching here I haven't seen anything quite like this problems, so hopefully someone will have some insight. The five-star dealer it's with now is stymied.
One morning last week it wouldn't start, having been running perfectly prior to that. Hauling it to the nearby dealer, they said there was no signal from the camshaft position sensor. They replaced it, along with my front brakes (I mention it in case it's relevant), it fired up. I drove it less than 5 miles and it started stuttering on acceleration once it got warm. I got it to highway speeds, but eventually I had to stop again, and it stalled and would not start.
I hauled it into the dealer again, who diagnosed it as a crankshaft position sensor failure. They were a bit skeptical of this, because they hadn't seen both fail like that before. They test-drove it successfully but I suspect it wasn't fully warm yet, and it worked fine. I picked it up, drove two miles, and it stuttered and died on acceleration again.
When it dies my tachometer goes absolutely nuts, and the speedometer drops to zero. The other gauges show accurate readings if I recall correctly. The "check engine" light comes on, and the Jeep will not restart. It will not restart if I let it sit for a while.
Do you guys have ideas for me to try? I was thinking that maybe it could be fuel-related since it is happening on acceleration, but that's probably just me using old carbureted-engine troubleshooting. Any suggestions are more than appreciated!