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The asd relay connects battery voltage to the fuel injectors and the ignition coil, while the fuel pump relay connects battery voltage to the fuel pump only. If the PCM senses there is no signal from the camshaft or crankshaft postion sensors, the PCM will de-energize both relays.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
The dealership may have forgotten to connect the ambient ouside temperature sensor back up. This is located directly behind the front grille, and may just needs to be plugged back in. This is thier mistake, and you should make them clear the problem with your vehicle.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
Have a friend shift the lever in/out of different positions, so that you know which linkage it is that you want to adjust.
Block/ckock your wheels so that you don't get run over. Shift the transfer case into neutral. Loosen the lock bolt in the selector rod trunnion.(This looks like a rod that can be ajusted forward or rearwards). Make sure that the transfer case is truly in neutral.(this can be done by being able to physically move the vehicle by hand backwards or forwards)adjust the trunnion as nessasary.
Test drive the vehicle and verify that the transfer case is fully engaged in all 3 postions.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
Bend back the clip, and release the wiring harness, pulling it down for easier disconnection of the connector.
Connect a jumper wire between motor ground terminal, and a good chassis ground. Connect a fused jumper wire from the positive battery post and the positive terminal tab on the blower side connector. If the motor now works, then remove the grounded jumper wire, and if the motor stops working, then check for bad ground, and retest. If the blower motor still doesn't work, the blower motor is faulty, and needs to be replaced. If the positive fused jumper wire blows the fuse, then the blower motor need to be replaced due to seizure of the motor itself.
Replacing the blower motor is fairly easy. Take out the blower motor, and detach the retainer clip from the motor shaft.slip the fan off the old motor, mount it on the new one, install the retainer clip, and reintall the new motor.
DONE. Wasn't that easy?
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
Here is my list of issues with this hunk of junk...
* The radio has never worked, it comes on but all I hear is static....but you can listen to tapes-that is if you can find a place that sells casettes
* It likes to stall while I am accelerating, just die like I turned the key off in the middle of driving and it becomes extremely hard to turn the wheel. But it would start right up again.
* It gets worse- I am sure most of you already know - Then not only does it die while I am driving, but now it wants to die at practically every red light, every stop sign every other mile. But for some reason that is not an everyday thing, it is about twice a week.
*One day it doesn't start at all, I get a new starter, Well it started again but that wasn't the problem, so I get a new battery as well because I had to get a jump occasionly to get it to start--No thats not it.
*Now it is making awful noises while I am trying to drive it, it grinds and sometimes when I try to start it, it knocks wildly. And for the past week it wants to die about every ten minutes.
-----These are the answers from mechanics---
1. It is definitly the fuel pump
2. Seems to me you have yourself an electrical problem
3. Its gotta be your sensors, my wife has this problem too
4. Driveshaft Bearing, its giving your sensors a bad readin'
5. I think its your Ignition System or it could be the Ignition Coil.
I guess now you know my little bit of info I would really love it if someone could give me an answer that is not a guess. I will NEVER have a Jeep again and if you have the money to get rid of it DO IT NOW!!!!!
good luck minus the radio that is
The crankshaft position sensor, and the camshaft position sensors work in conjuction with every other sensor in the vehicle to completely give the ECM all pertient data needed for optimum drivability in all conditions.
If the service engine soon/engine light does not come on then, there may be a sensor(s) on it's way out. When the light does come on, then a sensor(s) need to be replaced.
Spend the little amount of money, and take the vehicle to a jeep dealership to have them scan the jeep for any defective sensor(s). This takes the guess work out of changing sensor(s) that may, or may not be the problem. If, and when the dealership replaces any defective sensor(s), the scan tool also resets the On Board Diagonstics (OBD), which only a certified jeep OBD scan tool can do.
I do suggest to many people that you do pick up a Haynes Repair Manual as this will tell you everything you need to know about anything to do with your vehicle.(available at most auto parts stores for about $20.00)
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
As for the radio, ask the dealership tech to check under your dash to see if your antenna wire is connected to your radio.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
With the engine idling, pull the CCV hose from the rubber grommet. Place your finger over the hose opening. If there is no vacuum, check for a plugged hose, manifold port, or valve. Take a paper clip and clean the orfice where the hose connects to on the valve cover (looks like a big rubber grommet), and push through any blockages that may be hindering operation. Change any parts that you may suspect are defective. Thats it. Done.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
Along that route (from fuel tank to injection) there are many valves and things that can get damaged.
The front differential was over-hauled 8.000 miles after purchase ($1100) There was a terriffic thump every time you hit a bump since purchased. Had to replace both front and rear sway bar assemblies and the track bar ($226). New ignition wires, distributor cap, spark plugs, etc. Had this vehicle for 18 mo. and have spent $2557) on repairs.
News about the rear differential-- DC issued a TSB dated 7-31-1998 regarding the aluminum differential , manufactured by Dana, ie.: NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO 1997 AND 1998 GRAND CHEROKEES EQUIPPED WITH V-8 ENGINES AND ALUMINUM HOUSING DANA 216 RBA AXLES BUILT IN THE USA (ZJ) BETWEEN DECEMBER 1 1996 AND MARCH 31, 1998 (1997 MDH 1201XX THROUGH 1998 MDH 0331XX) AND BUILT IN EUROPE (ZG) BETWEEN JANUARY 20, 1997 AND JUNE 30, 1998 ((1997 MDH 0120XX AND 1998 MDH 0630XX). SYMTOM/CONDITION-- A growling noise may be present coming from the rear axle. This noise may be caused by gradual wearing of the rear axle carrier bearing and races. The noise is usually light at first and is often mis-diagnosed for a wind noise or air leak in the tailgate area. The noise becomes gradually worse with increased mileage. A remanufactured axle assembly has been released for use in this situation.
The axle assemblies will be shipped minus axle shafts and wheel end/brake components which will require transfer from the original assembly. The axle assemblies will be shipped dry as they will require cover removal for installation of the axle shaft "C" clip retainer.
CAUTION: THE AXLE BEARINGS RIDE DIRECTLY ON THE AXLE SHAFT WITHOUT A RACE IN THIS APPLICATION. DAMAGE TO THE AXLE SHAFT CAN RESULT FROM CONTAMINATION IF METAL PARTICLES ARE PRESENT IN THE FLUID. CAREFULLY INSPECT THE AXLE SHAFT FOR DAMAGE AT THIS AREA. IF ANY DAMAGE IS PRESENT, AXLE SHAFT REPLACEMENT WILL BE REQUIRED.
DIAGNOSIS; Road test the vehicle. If noise is present and the vehicle falls within the build range, perform the Repair Procedure.
The part numbers and description required are listed on this TSB (Technical Service Bulletin)
I just came accross this TSB and had the Local Jeep Dealer road test my vehicle (10,000 mi.) bad bearing again, as mentioned above. The technition acknoledged the bearing is bad. Can't do anything for you- 12 months has passed. Service manager contacts regional DC representative- NO HELP!! I call DC customer Relations _ NO HELP!!
DC acknowledges (BY THEIR TSB) they produced or installed faulty merchandise manufactured by others. Their position in this instance was: If one of these goes bad while under warrany we'll fix it, but if we can make it past the 3 yr. 36 mo. warranty we'll place the burden for our mistake on the customer. ($1300) just for the housing; gears and bearings are extra- plus labor. Ball park figure for repair; $2000- $2500. I ask you , " IS THIS BEEING ETHICAL IN BUSINESS?" THIS IS THE FIRST DC CAR I HAVE EVER PURCHASED AND THE LAST !!
When I took the JGC in, the dealer should have been privy to the problem, with the models mentioned above, which has gone on for the last 6 yrs. It wasn't brought to attention until I confronted them. POOR SERVICE- NO ETHICS!
Any idea what to do?
Thanks,
Bill
oil change every 3,000 mi
all preventative maintenance/tuneups
Hi All,
It got pretty cold here this week (~10F), and I noticed that until my baby attains normal running temperatures (slightly below 200F), I hear an intermittent squeaking noise coming from the front of my car. It sounds like it's coming from the engine (I think it might be a bearing associated with my timing belt), but I am not sure what would be making that noise. I have heard other cars making that noise too. If anyone has any information and recommendations for me I would greatly appreciate it.
Also, I was wondering when the front/rear shocks and/or struts should be replaced. My Jeep seems a bit bouncy these days for the GC I am used too.
Finally, I noticed my drive train sounds a bit like a marble shaking around in a tin can when I have the car idling in drive. And my overdrive is starting to sound like that low-pitched whining that you hear when a fast-moving truck blows by you.
Thanks so much for any and all help. I want to get these things fixed!
-George
DC just doesn't get it. If you treat your customers with respect and address issues PROPERLY the customer will be back.
Case in point; I sell some merchandise for use in fresh water. A customer purchased items totalling about $45.00. Shortly there-after the customer wintered in Florida and used the articles in salt water. Naturally corrosion occured due to this application.
He came back, 4 months after purchase, with complaint of corrosion of the articles. I politely informed him that stainless steel items would have been a better choice in that application. I told him I would fix the articles at my cost of the merchandise, no charge for labor, and made some other repair he had not requested. He left my place of business satisfied and in good spirit.
He returned 2 weeks later bringing 3 OTHER CUSTOMERS WITH HIM. THEY PURCHASED $150.00 WORTH OF MERCHANDISE.
This type of CUSTOMER RELATIONS is what GROWS BUSINESS. Some times you have to give a little to get alot!!
If DC is really serious in growing their business they should, flat out: 1. Acknowledge the problems; 2. Treat customers with respect (not like dirt). 3. Do what is NECESSARY to maintain their customer base. Other wise, Hello Ford, GM, etc.
i checked the fuses in control box under hood no problem ,i swiched some relays but still have nothing
any suggestions???
wouldnt the radio,dummy lights & windows work.
where is the safety switch ???
How do you replace the front Parking Lamp? It seems hard to get the lens off.
I am starting to have emissions problems, in the past 18 months we have had the oxygen sensors replaced 3 times. I emission light comes on the gas mileage drops. I stead of getting around 320 per tank, I have been getting around 260 per tank. I bought some Lucas fuel injector cleaner and that seems to do the trick for a while. I think that the carbon builds up on the fuel injector and thats why I getting this emissions light. Anybody else got a theory????
Need help, I am a Jeep lover
Thanks!
(1). There are 2 bolts that have to be removed in order to take of the entire headlamp assembly. One is a long bolt that resides on the top of the headlamp and the other is a hex-shaped bolt that also has to be removed.
(2). Once these bolts are removed, you have to grasp firmly on the corners of the light assemby to pull free from the tabs in which the lights are held in place. Hope this helps out.
P.S.- I thought of something as far as the emissions go. How many miles does your Jeep have on it? Sometimes with higher mileage cars, catylitic converter sometimes become defective, resulting in emissions problems and failures. If the Malfunction Indicator light is on mow, take it to Autozone and they'll tell you what the codes are free of charge. If it says something like "catylitic converter below threshold", then it's you cat.
Thanks, Ed :confuse:
Did you ever relosve this problem?
thanks, Ed :confuse:
Changing the fluid in your transmission is probably NOT a good idea, but changing the 4-6 litres and the filter is.
Your transmission oil pan holds about 30% of the total oil in your tranny, and should be changed along with the filter. Doing a complete flush is not recommended in a tranny that has that many miles on it, because the detergents in new tranny oil will wash away the fluid film that is acting as a barrier for all the internal components in your tranny. If you do decide to do a complete flush, then may i recommend that you begin to find a decent tranny shop to replace your tranny that will more than likely fail soon. Change the filter and mabey 3 litres of oil, nothing else.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
I hope this helps you and good luck m8.