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Thanks for any input!
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
When the IAC is gummed up it sticks, and gives the PCM a faulty reading resulting in rough idle. You may have to replace this sensor, but most times a good cleaning does the trick. Also check your air filter, and your spark plugs, as these will also give you rough idle.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
Before you decide to take anything out of the vehicle, phone a jeep dealership about how to go about getting around the factory alarm system, so you can replace the stereo.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee V6
- Replace Map Sensor ($375)
- Replace Spark Plugs ($169)
- Replace Serpentine Belt ($179)
- Diagnosis ($140)
___________________________________
Total $862
- Labor Rate is $140/hr. (that seems high)
I'll be honest, I've been very happy with this Jeep, but have never found the dealers to be the fair or best at maintenance or repair - fair meaning I felt like the service was worth the price and best meaning I have had not dealers perform more reliable service with better explanations and providing me with a complete breakdown an parts for replacement, etc. I expect I will take it to another Jeep repair shop and eat the diagnostic fee.
Interested if anyone has thoughts on this - please feel free to share.
Just a thought: If the stereo dealer will give you a garantee of workmanship on installing the stereo,(so if anything goes wrong because of the installation)would this not be a wise choice of action, for just in case?
You may have to pay a couple of hundred dollars for installation, but this may save you thousands of dollars in repairs. Always get a garantee in writing that is signed.
On a more personal note: I would try to swap my stereo out again with the correct wiring harness, as I have good friends in the jeep industry that can help me solve my problems. However, I would do the research before i decide to commit the time/resources to the task at hand.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
If you have a compentent friend/neighbour, friend of a friend..ect. then do the work yourself, and save yourself a bundle of money. here is my appraisal of the parts:
-map sensor:$100-$200 max.
-spark plugs:$40-$60 max.
-serpentine belt:$$20-$60 max.
---------------
$320- maximum
The diagnosis will have to be done by a dealership to reset the trouble codes on your jeep. If/when you decide/do get the work done take the vehicle straight to a dealership to have them reset the trouble codes, if you do not, chances are the map sensor will continue to run faulty because the PCM will still have the trouble code stored as a faulty sensor. This will certainally, in time, turn the map sensor faulty.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
My 2002 Overland is doing just that. There is a TSB on this problem. It summerizes that the blend door assembly needs to be replaced. TSB 2400104 dated 1/20/04. In short the dash will be removed,the freon in the air condintioning drained, and the faulty subassembly removed.
I say faulty because these parts were made of cheap plastic and the shaft attached to the blend door has stripped. The blend motor works fine but the shaft spins instead of engaging. For further info check the TSB listed above at this site www.wjjeeps.com . Then click on the link HVAC sub assembly replacement. This TSB covers models 1999-2004.
I do believe Jeep actually stands for Jerryrigded end 2 end partner! Check out this site www.wjjeeps.com/tsb_list.htm
Arrow through the countless problems that have come with these vehicles to TSB 2400104. Then click on the link HVAC subassembly replacement.
This TSB covers models 1999-2004
Thanks
John
These switches activate a relay, which in turn connects voltage to the door lock solenoids. Depending on which way the relay is activated, it reverses polarity allowing the two sides of the circuit to be used alternately as the feed (positive) and ground side. The book went on to say follow these steps to check for faults...Take out and check the fuses first. Operate the door lock switches in both directions (lock and unlock) with the engine off. Listen for the faint click of the relay operating.
If there is no click, check for voltage at the switches. If no voltage is present, check the wiring between the fuse block and the switches for shorts and opens.
If voltage is present but no click is heard, test the switch for continuity. Replace it if there is no continuity in either switch position.
If the switch has continuity but the relay does not click,check the wiring between the switch and the relay for continuity. Repair wiring if there is no continuity.
If the relay is receiving voltage from the switch but is not sending voltage to the solenoids, check for a bad ground at the relay case. If the relay case is grounding properly, replace the relay.
If all but one lock solinoid operates, remove the trim panel from the affected door and check for voltage at the solenoid while the lock switch is operated. One of the wires should have voltage in the lock position:the other should have voltage in the unlock position.
If the inoperative solenoid is receiving voltage,replace the solenoid. If the inoperative solenoid is not receiving voltage, check for an open or short in the wire between the
lock solenoid and the relay.
Finally, it is common for wires to break in the portion of the harness between the body and the door. Opening and closing over and over fatigues and eventually breaks the wires.
It's always good to have a fresh battery in your transmitter. For our model year (1997) the battery # is DL2016. It's alot to soak up but I hope some of this might help your situation. CD PLAYER :shades:
Kneel down and remove two smaller screws one left one right within the grill. The grill should lift out. Next grasp the lower half of the headlight and pull it back sharply to detach it from the adjuster pivots.
Do the same with the upper half of the headlight.
You may be able to access the two screws that hold the signal light housing without removing the side marker housing. If not there are two screws that hold it in place as well. If you run into any trouble check the illustrations in any Chilton manual under the Chasis Electrical section for the schematics. CD PLAYER
I purchased my fifth JGC in MD, Veterans Day 11/11/04, at the same dealership previously used, but I now live in NC.
The MD lemon laws say the car must be "tagged" in MD; the NC lemon laws say the car must have been "purchased" in NC.
I got the newer 4WD because as a female with aging parents with cancer (1 died in April, '05) and now more nursing home and Medical Assistance details... I wanted a safe car to run up and down the coast in all kinds of weather.(killing me with details: both the medical world & Daimler Chrysler)
The local dealer in NC refused to work on the car "warranty" wise within six weeks of purchase it had been in their garage so many times with the "check engine" light. Between FL & MD, I believe it has been in no less six different dealerships and some of them numerous times.
The front pinion seal was slewing oil: replaced; the 2 up and 2 downwind of the catalytic converter o2 sensors were replaced; the catalytic converter was replaced at 12 weeks of ownership due to a hole in it; the electronic components for the drivers' seat were replaced the same time as the pinion seal. Result is that since the local guys told me to "drive it back to MD for the Pionion seal 15 minutes after telling me that "it could not be driven" I walked off the lot saying I was not going to move the car.
Daimler/Chrysler's 800 number was good at listening but provided no answers.
The purchasing dealership found that the local dealership was lying about me, my salesman who spoke to their service department after declared they would no longer work on my car (indeed they were so incompetent, my husband and I do not understand how they keep their precious 4 STAR rating) and have said so in writing, with no answer from Daimler Chrysler.
Additionally, the purchasing dealership got the 4 Star co-ordinator and district manager in their area involved - after finding that my dealer in NC's district manager had also washed his hands of "this" car. They went through what I understand to be a "customer service" unit in Orlando, FL, who had the car removed from the local dealer's lot and towed 55 miles away from my home.
These were the folks who found the hole in the catalytic converter and these are the folks to whom I now add 110 miles round trip off of my extended warranty, (for oil changes & tire rotations of 4WD)which of course sometimes necessitates returning after necessary parts are needed or "Star on-call" service of Daimler Chrysler puts them on hold for hours at a time. We once had to take the car back - 100 miles just to be told that after replacing the "gas cap" to fix a code on my dash reading "check gas cap" that after it was fixed, then the "check engine" light appeared and the dealer and "Star on-call" not giving them an answer that day - we drove back to find the fix was.... you're going to love this.......... to remove the battery terminals for ten minutes and then put them back, i.e., like re-booting your computer by removing its energy source.
Now, it's 14 months old, with 20,000 miles, was serviced last Thursday, but my complaint of the driver's seatbelt winder not working will necessitate another 110 miles off of my warranty.
It appears to us -- if we understand the Lemon Laws -- we only fall under "federal" laws and... again... if we understand them... it's supposed to be the "same" problem happening over and over again. Thus, we feel we do not come under any "lemon" laws, just a poorly built vehicle!
I love my jeep's handling and what I use it for, but I do not need this extra stress and I feel it unfair that these 110 mile trips are eating into my expensive warranty.
I feel like they owe me a new car... any suggestions?
Since I'm responding to an 8 month old posting... I am of course curious what your problems were and how your case came out? I hope with a happy ending for you, the consumer, a win for more of us! Magothy.
Feeling like I'm in "podunk" in East Carolina.
Any hints on better gas milage? I do undertand that a V-8 all time 4wd will not get great mileage but I'm averaging 13.7. Most of my driving is innercity (very little highway) and when I do get on the highway I try not to exceed 60 mi per hr because I can average around 22 miles to the gallon then. I bought a fancey air filter when I bought the car cause I was told that it would help, I don't think it has. I've also heard of a certain type of spark plug that may help to gain a mile or two per gallon. This I havn't yet done. Any suggestions? I can't afford to drive it anymore with gas prices so high, but I love my GJC!
spoon2000, "Audi A6" #35, 28 Jul 2000 2:26 pm
Maybe call your local attorney general or consumer protection agency and see if they have any recommendations.
Steve, Host
tidester, host
On the the other side of this problem... you may want to check your diff, to see if there is any play in the gear nest. I just replaced my front gear nest and carrier bearings about 2 weeks ago.(about $150)
If you do go to a dealer for a diagnostic, and they are 100% sure what the problem is.. please post it, and i will try to help you out as to fixing your problem.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
I use Bosch platinum plugs. But no plug is any good to you if your wires are bad. If you can when it's dark outside do this: The darker the better. With the engine compartment open (you may have to take the underhood bulb out)(push in and twist), start the vehicle. Have a flashlight in hand so you can judge the location of the fan blades. Stay away from them!! Let your eyes adjust to the dark. What you are looking for as you stare at the area the plug wires are located, is for Christmas treeing. This is where the spark of one wire will jump from one wire to another or to the engine block itself. Nothing major. But only slightly. This kind of thing really steals gas mileage. This is one of the many causes of your engine running a little rough at idle. Oil saturation also weakens the insulation of the wires. Best thing to do if you can is to replace the wires if you have not. And the plugs. Change the distributor cap and rotor too. All together you are looking at about $120 to $150 at PepBoys. PepBoys has the least expensive air breathers that I have been able to find for both my JGC.
And finally, do not forget the PVC valve. This will be located on you 97's passenger side valve cover. Toward the back of the cover. From the carberator you may see a rubber hose leading to this cover. Attached to the hose is a plastic device pressed into a rubber grommet fitted on the valve cover. Carefully pull up on this plastic devise. You may have to wiggle it from side to side a little. The jeep is not to be running when you do this.
Now grasp the plastic devise with one hand and hold onto the hose with the other. With a twisting motion on the devise, work it out of the hose. If you shake the devise you will hear a rattling noise inside. Always best to replace and not just clean the PCV.
As far a the speed you are driving on the freeway. Let er rip. Getting that V-8 to normal operating temp will help burn out that inner city carbon that may have built up inside the piston cylinders. I drive upwards of 80mph in my 97 and close to 90 when I can get away with it in my 2002. Freeway mileage is pretty consistant. Got 23.1 mpg
on my last 320 mile trip to Fresno and back. Travelled 80 to 85 all the way. :shades:
I appreciate any comments on this, or if you have a possible solution please don't hesitate.
RE: 2000 JGCL V8 4X4 4.7L 87,000mi.
Thanks
Your post certainly sounds as the classic bad alternator/even if it is new story. We all experience this at least once in our lives, but it is a very good lesson to learn for everyday use: new doesn't always mean good.
With a fully charged battery the alternator should be charging somewhere between 12.4 volts, and 15 volts.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
Several months ago my automatic head lights started turning my lights on all the time. So even during the day time my headlights were on. A Short time later my headlights started turning themselves on when the vehicle was off. They would flicker on for a few minutes and then shut off. It would repeat this a few times before stopping and then it would start up again a little while later. I solved the problem by taking them off auto and turning the lights off. This only occurs when the lights are in auto. Any suggestions. I bought a manual on the jeep but didn't find anything that would help.
My second problem is my driver side bum heater isn't working. Luckily I live in Colorado Springs and it's not too detrimental thanks to a mild January. I think it might be a fuse but again haven't come across anything in my manual that might help point me in the right direction. Passenger side heated seat working fine.