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Comments
Hopefully it's all that is wrong with your Jeep too. Good Luck.
Many thanks for the reply. I found an alternative shop willing to do it for less than half the price. They also diagnosed faulty battery which contributed to the problem. All said, the work and parts were significantly less than at the Dealer.
Bottom line - be sure to double check prices from San Francisco Jeep Dealers!!! I can recommend another Jeep specific shop if anyone is looking.
found them on the internet for $99.00.But I was chasing a ghost, and I think I came out ahead.I could have started replacing stuff,and if it was still there,more of my money and time.This way if it was still there or comes back, under warr.Total was about $430.I wanted to ask you why people are having so much trouble with brakes.2001 JGC bought in 2003.I'm sure they did a brake job before seling.Put about 14,000 miles on her,includes a 1500 mile trip with a 3000 lb boat and trailer,three adults gear and two dogs.Most of driving done in city,stop and go.Pads still 3/8 thick.Rotors fine.
Have a great weekend.
Thanks, Federico
Canuck905
A pack ract got into the Engine and I feel chewed wires but not sure where to look. I also smell lots of strong catalatic converter unburned fuel smell? not sure belive it is that. And the engine will restart at times after it dies if I turn off the key. After it dies on the road and barely runs. A guy could get killed on a freeway with this kind of vehical response. Feel it is the computer shutting down the engine.
Where do I look and what should I do?
Thanks in Advance falcon
Anyone had/resolved this problem? Assume it's something to do with door rain seals or weather stripping - as firewall is dry under pedals/carpet. If no similar problems - can anyone direct me to procedure for replacing door seals, and where to purchase aftermarket replacements? Thanks.
Did you solve your prob? What was the solution?
After that the air bag light comes on and then goes off. There really in not a pattern to the light coming on and off. Is there an air bag sensor anywhere near this crossmember. We did have the crossmember replaced and the sub frame checked and everything thing looked ok. Just need to know if there is an air bag sensor in the area that could have been damaged or any other ideas on what this problem is.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ken
Check your power steering fluid to make sure it is topped up. Then take your serpintine belt off, and check all the pulleys that it runs on; tensioner,power steering, water pump,idler..ect. If any of them wiggle, then replace them. Also check when your engine is running for awhile, and warm, shut it down and check the water pump weep holes(there are two,one on top, and one on the bottom) to see if there is any coolant/water seeping out from there. If there is.. replace your water pump. One last thing to check is your altenator, see if the whine is coming from there, probably not unles your having voltage spike all the time.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
When looking for driveline parts... look at driveline part stores.
Jeep has had soooooo many problems with their 2000 and up models when it comes to brakes. When they manufactured the rotors, they made them with a bad metal alloy mixture resulting in warped rotors, excessive brake pad heat...ect.ect. Swap your rotors out with after market ones and you should be fine from here on in.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
This sound like your battery is dead, or is almost dead, or your altenator is on it's way out. Take the vehicle(if it will make it) to an auto parts store that will(free of charge, as most do) check your altenator and battery.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
As for your code p0320, my book read that you are getting no crank reference signal at PCM.... Change your crankshaft position sensor,or trace back the wiring to see if there is a open circuit(short).
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
Problem: I have had the speedometer cluster and speed sensor replaced by the dealership. And the speedometer needle is still bouncing all over the place. The tech at the dealership disconnected a wire from a (speed) module and the speedometer seem to work fine. But the "taillight out" alert would start flashing. When the wire was reconnected to the module the speedometer needle would start bouncing all over again while driving (the tech tried a new module no change in the speedometer bounce).
Does anybody have a clue to what the problem could be or how I can fix this problem.
Brakes are a closed hydraulic system, whether if you have A.B.S, or not, which requires alot of PSI in order to work properly.
When the vehicle is not running, the brake pedal is hard because there is no vacuum boost assist, and when you pump the brake pedal a couple of times, the brake pedal should stay in one spot when held down, and not slowly travel to the floor.If the pedal does travel to the floor, then you have a brake line leak somewhere. When the vehicle is running, the vacuum booster does just that: it assists in creating enough PSI in order for the system to work properly, in relative comfort to the driver/operator. Changing the vacuum booster is fairly easy, and straight forward. However, if you have any doubts as to the integrity of your braking system, have a qualified dealer double check the braking system. This is the system that stops your 2000lb vehicle from becoming a deadly weapon, DO NOT COMPRIMISE THIS SYSTEM.
Also, do not take the brake lines off at the master cylinder, or you will have to "bench bleed" the master cylinder, and believe me when i say: you will not like that . The master cylinder and lines can stay intact, but you will have to unbolt the master cylinder from the booster, in order to remove the booster. Don't worry, this will not affect the hydraulic system at all.
Before you do all this, check the vacuum hose that goes to the booster, and see if it has a leak at the fitting, or where it attaches to the intake manifold, and check to see if the hose is plugged.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
Check the integrity of the wiring harness plug-in that goes to the airbag module, if all look fine then you will probably have to either have the module looked at by a dealership, or replace the module itself. Do not get a module from and auto wrecker, as you will have the same problem. Sometimes(depending on the model) an airbag module can be flashed(wiped clean), and rebooted with fresh programming.
You will need to get this dealt with A.S.A.P, or your next drink of coffee while driving down the road, may come with a coffee cup and a pillow. :surprise:
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
The only other thing that i can possibly think of right now is: Did the service tech reset your trouble codes in your PCM when they replaced the VSS and instrument cluster?
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
Just to clarify, you said the plugs are there to drain the vehicle. Are they normally "plugged" (i.e. "closed") and one must unplug them in order to drain the water out? If correct, that sounds like a good solution to emptying the water once it has entered the car - but my original problem still exists - identifying the source of the water and preventing it from occuring everytime it rains. Any suggestions????
Just to clarify, you said the plugs are there to drain the vehicle. Are they normally "plugged" (i.e. "closed") and one must unplug them in order to drain the water out? If correct, that sounds like a good solution to emptying the water once it has entered the car - but my original problem still exists - identifying the source of the water and preventing it from occuring everytime it rains. Any suggestions????
Canuck905
I would like to understand if my transmission is behaving correctly - if its behaving ok, but sounds worn, or if its doing something i need to worry about.
So... it shifts properly up and down etc. When shifting from park to reverse, there's a small clunk initially. Similarly when shifting from reverse to drive. a small clunk. Is this ok? it feels like just some play somewhere. Equally. coming from drive to a stop at traffic lights. It seems not possible to bring it to a stop perfectly smoothly, there always seems to be this small clunk just before stopping. i don't think the problem is my heavy feet...
Secondly. I'm in drive. The car is stationary. My foot is on the brake. I rev the engine. I hear a grating noise. Should i expect to? I don't think i should, but not really sure. I appreciate this is something i don't really need to do, but am just interested in whether this indicates a problem or the beginnings of a problem. other than that, am extremely pleased with my Jeep.
Thanks in advance for any advice or help.