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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • sirdobermansirdoberman Member Posts: 1
    my wifes 94 grand cherokee has developed an intermitint problem i am hoping you folks may be of some help with.
    the fuel pump works if i run power straight to it,the relay for both the fuel pump as well as the auto shut down are both fine,ive replaced both the ign,pick up as well as the crank sensor,the pressure valve is fine as well.sometimes you hear the pump come on when you turn the key,and it starts fine then.then other times you dont hear the pump and it wont start.if you depress the valve on the rail when it doesnt start,its dry.the turn key check motor light test shows no codes except 1 -2 - 5 - 5.i am about at wits end.thankyou for any advice.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    There should be one screw on the top and one on the bottom holding the side marker lens in. Look at the edge near the headlight. The top one should be there. You may have to reach up into the engine compartment right behind the bumper to get to the bottom screw. I'm not sure exactly where it is, but I'm guessing that it should also be on the edge near the headlight. Once those two screws are removed, the side marker lens should pull out to the side and then you can take out the bulb and wiring. Reverse the process to install the new one. As far as 'tightening' your headlight, I don't know if that's possible. There are two adjusting screws that might do the trick. One adjusts the headlight up and down, the other left to right. Just make sure you don't get the headlight beams aim too far out of whack. It doesn't take much adjustment in the screw to raise your beam's projection a whole lot. It would be best to do this at dusk or at night with your vehicle perpendicular to a flat surface, such as a garage door or wall. This way, you'll be able to tell if your lights are out of adjustment. The reason I said tightening them might not be possible is because, if I remember correctly, the headlights themselves are pushed back onto upper and lower alignment pins. Sorry about the long, drawn out article I've written. Maybe this will help you out a little! Let us know if it doesn't. -dixiecrawler
  • stevevostevevo Member Posts: 4
    I have a 95 JGC 5.2 V-8 and it drips from tranny case. I have changed the rear main seal twice and checked bearing and oil pump clearances and they are in spec. I am thinking it could be the Oil Pressure sending unit but can't find it. It says it is on the back behind the intake manifold. Help please.
  • dirtroadmasterdirtroadmaster Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 JGC and it rides real rough and you can feel every little bump that I go over. I frequently go down dirt roads that have large pot holes and they probably take a toll on my car. Does anyone know what may need to be done to smoothen the ride and minimize the headaches?? Please help me I am a rookie to all this car stuff and am not very knowledgeable about any of this stuff. Thanks
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    If your Grand rides rough your shocks may need to be replaced. To check and see if they're worn out, first visually inspect them. If you see any oil leaking out of them or even an oily film where the piston goes into the shock body then it's time to retire them. If they look fine, that doesn't mean they are! Go to the front of the truck and push down really hard (don't dent the hood!) to see how the truck rebounds. If it comes right back up with maybe a little down travel afterward (it's just getting itself back to ride height), the shocks are fine. If the frontend bounces more than previously said, the shock have lost their rebound/damping effect and need to be replaced. Then, perform the same test on the rear of the vehicle. Since the rearend is alot lighter than the front (weighed down by engine and tranny), you may need to get someone to sit in the cargo area to add some weight for the test. Sometimes you can only tell that the rear shocks are shot if you have some weight in the back, or if they are making alot of noise. I have a 2000 Grand Laredo, and the rear shocks are needing to be replaced, but I couldn't tell until I installed a 2" suspension lift. Once the shocks were extended another 2 or so inches, they started making knocking and rattling noises that could not be heard at stock ride height. Let me know if this helps you out any, and also if you need any more info! - dixiecrawler
  • ten5ten5 Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 1996 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE I DROVE IT ABOUT 80KMS TTO ANOTHER AREA. WHEN I WAS READY TO LEAVE MY JEEP WOULD CRANK OVER BUT IT WOULD NOT START.
    ANY SUGGESTIONS?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Skim the posts over in the "No Start" Problems discussion while waiting for responses in here.

    btw, people tend to skip over posts in ALL CAPS since they are hard to read.

    Steve, Host
  • kundesckundesc Member Posts: 1
    Here goes, I recently bought an 01JGC with full time all wheel drive. Had it in to a local mechanic for basic tune up. And to diagnose thumping in drivetrain at low speeds. He couldnt pinpoint the problem and recommended taking it to the dealer to get a diagnosis. He seems to believe it could possibly be coming from the transfer case. the only history of problems i got from the seller. was a blown tire while being towed behind a motorhome. it was pulled that way for a few miles before he noticed it. and said that it caused fender damage and rotor damage. all seems to be fixed. but could be the cause of the problems i have now. if anyone has any ideas before i take it to the dealer, they would be greatly appreciated. and yes my mechanic checked all wheels, tires, and fluids and all is ok.
  • hineslyhinesly Member Posts: 2
    Engine rpms must reach 4500 before transmission will shift from 1st to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd. Transmission does not go into overdrive or kick down. NO adjustment of the throttle valve linkage changes anything. Any suggestions?
  • chris1973chris1973 Member Posts: 2
    I have had the exact same problem and the dealer said it was bad gas. My mechanic has said it could be a bad pressure regulator. I will have to let you know.
  • acarbyacarby Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with my 95 jgc, i found it to be the shift cable had stripped out and needed to be readjusted. it was about 70 dollars to fix but it shifts just fine now. also there was a connector behind the dash that had shorted out. it was about 15 dollars to fix.
  • hineslyhinesly Member Posts: 2
    I check out my shift cable and see if that is it.
  • ricornricorn Member Posts: 2
    Dixiecrawler,
    Many thanks for your reply. I have noticed the top screw holding the side marker light but have a hard time locating the bottom screw. Will look for it again.

    Do you know how I can remove the headlight? I think the plastic gizmo on one of the adjusting screws may be broken and I want to try to pull it out to crazy glue it.

    Thanks again,
    Sonny
  • jeeprcjeeprc Member Posts: 1
    Same problem here -- 2005 GJC. Happening once ever thousand miles, 3 times so far.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    If my memory serves me right, the headlight is 'pushed' back onto four alignment pins which 'pop' into the rear of the headlight housing. Take a close look at what you can see of the adjustment screws to see if it looks like they need to be removed for the light to came out. I'm thinking that they do, plus if they don't have to and you take them out anyway, taking the time putting them back in and re-adjusting your lights sure beats going to the dealer to replace anything that could break behind the light. Anyway, you should be able to pull the headlight straight out after you check and/or remove the adjusting screws. Now it's not going to come out easily, because the alignment pins are 'pushed' into the housing pretty tightly. You'll have to use some pretty firm pressure, just don't get irritated with it and yank it out or you'll probably be replacing something! Also, on the side marker lens, take out the top screw and gently pull it to the side and see if it feels like another screw is holding it. I'm pretty sure there is a screw on the bottom, but alot of cars just have an alignment peg and slot at the bottom to help hold it in when the top screw is in. If you feel resistance, though, crawl under the truck with a flashlight and see if you see one. Let me know how it goes! - dixiecrawler
  • keywest0499keywest0499 Member Posts: 2
    hello, I would appreciate any help or information. I own a 93 jeep grand Cherokee limited v6. Though I have had other problems with it in the past, they have always been able to be repaired, until now! I am afraid my mechanic does not really know what is causing the problem and he is going to continue to unnecessarily replace parts at my expense until he figures out what is actually wrong. As he has attempted to fix it 3 times now and the problem is still there! I will start off with the main problem that he was attempting to repair but I will include other issues that may or may not be related to the problem. To start off my jeep is making a loud (what feels like a hard continuous thumping or clunking sound when turning left) Since the mechanics attempted repairs it started to make this noise and thump when coming to a stop, also including a continuous clicking noise which seems to be coming from the right front end. My mechanic took off my left dry shaft (forgot to replace the yoke until 2 days after I drove it) but the problem still was there so he replaced the hub and bearing on the left, this did not fix the problem either. So he then removed the right front drive shaft (Didn't fix the problem) instead I am now having the additional problems mentioned above. Now he is telling me the right hub and bearing needs replaced as does my tie rod ends with the possibility my shocks need replaced. Then if that doesn't fix it he will replaces the axles and universal joints. He says it is safe to drive with the dry shafts out but I worried he is wrong! Any help? My jeep also make a hard thump (with a jerk) when shifting from park to reverse and from reverse to drive, also sometimes it will not shift into overdrive when it should, it also makes a shaking rumbling sound what seems to be underneath the middle on the jeep. I know, I know, I should get another vehicle!! But being a mother of five boys, my funds are just not there anymore and with 3 due to graduate over the next 32 years and head off to college(hopefully) I was hoping to make due with what I have. So please if any one could provide any information I would greatly appreciate it.
    sincerely,
    Mimi
  • timbob1timbob1 Member Posts: 9
    you should not be driving without your front yokes in, while it may not hurt anything you mechanic should know better. If the noise is consistant with hitting a bump I would replace the sway bar links fairly inexpensive compared to other repairs, if when turning period replace the front axles or axle joints some jeeps have cv axles and some have ujoints. to find a qualified shop go to carquest.com and click on the link for tech-net service centers and find one in your area. I have used them and enjoy piece of mind for nation wide warranty on parts.
  • timbob1timbob1 Member Posts: 9
    most likely a bad ground at the frame rail for fuel pump causing intermeiiten problem. Only if when you turn key and doesn't work everything else does.
  • keywest0499keywest0499 Member Posts: 2
    Thank You,
    The mechanic did replace the yoke then. But the clunking sound is still there when you turn left. It makes the clunking sound what appears to be as the wheel is turning left and it stops after the wheel is straightened up. Though it appears to be the same sound I am now hearing when I am coming to a stop. Right now my left front hub and bearing was replaced and the dry shafts (both left and right have been removed including the u joints) ( also the front dry shaft that runs from the transfer case to the back)they have not been replaced or put back on. My mechanic said the were not needed until I planned on using the 4 wheel drive then I would have to have new ones put on. Unfortunately this has not fixed the clunking problem. So my mechanic is telling me the right bearing/hub, tie rod ends and possible the shocks need to be replaced and by doing this "it should fix the problem" Which makes me believe he really does not know what is causing the clunking (thumping)when turning left. That is why I am trying to found out any information on what the possible problem could be. I have spoke with a qualified jeep mechanic and he said it more than likely is the u joints/ dry shaft but since they have been removed he would need to take a look at it for $95.00 and let me know what is "possible" wrong with it. But he would not be able to get to it for at least two weeks. That is when I decided to research it myself which has led me to this site.Whch I plan to mention any and all information I receive including the sway bar link in hopes it will help pinpoint and or eliminate possibilities. Thank you again for the information.
    Sincerely,
    Mimi
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    I don't know exactly what is causing your problem off the top of my head, but I can tell you that your shocks are NOT causing it. If your shocks were causing a thumping sound and needed to be replaced they would thump all of the time, not just when turning one direction. to check them, push down on the front of your truck. If it bounces three or four times, they're worn out and need to be replaced. If it comes back up and stays without bouncing (one to two bounces is okay) your shocks are fine. If they are worn, you don't have to rush out and have them replaced right away. You should concentrate on getting the thumping problem repaired. It could have something to do with the transfer case if you have a full-time case. I would definitely find yourself another mechanic. Your's sounds like he has no idea what he's talking about, and even though it's wrong, some mechanics will gladly try and take advantage of you if you're a woman. They assume you know nothing about problems you're having. I've stepped in a couple of times when I overheard different mechanics trying to pull one over on women. Hope the shock thing helps you out a little. Find another mechanic! -dixiecrawler
  • rth54rth54 Member Posts: 5
    Hi Mimi. I have the same problem with my 96 grand cher. I haven't gotten around to it yet, but i'm planning on changing the tranfer case fluid. I'll let you know how things turn out. rth54
  • rth54rth54 Member Posts: 5
    Bad News. My 96 grand ch. did the same thing. Over $750 to replace the fuel pump located in the fuel tank. Jeep should be ashamed for the poorly placed pump. rth54
  • dczyszdczysz Member Posts: 1
    4.0 Inline 6 won't start. This happened yesterday. Yesterday morning, I started the Jeep (had no problems) and parked it on a hill (facing uphill). I only drove it about 30 feet. 10 minutes later, it wouldn't start. There is about 1/4 tank of gas in it. It attempts to crank, but it seems that it isn't getting any gas. Any thoughts?
  • joel85joel85 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 88 cherokee that has started to get a little noisy in the steering department. it started to make the odd noise here and there when i would turn it to full lock, so as i was on a long trip i bought some fluid from the gas station and topped it up. I know its not genuine but its all i could do at the time. It now is over flowing through the breather hole on the cap at a alarming rate. Is this simply cause i put non genuine fluid in or is it a bigger problem
  • 96jeep196jeep1 Member Posts: 3
    Hey guys and gals.. I have another question for you. I was driving my 96 GC from virginia back to florida (which hit the 200k mark around Savannah, Ga) to which i had my a/c running for a good 20 minutes. Now with or without the cruise control on, when i attempt to accelerate, the power drops as if it's attempting to shut off. this goes on after I shut the a/c off.. but here's the funny thing. It resumes to full power once I shut the GC off completely and restart. I've had the prblem previous to the trip, but paid no mind to it. I made sure all the vac lines and hoses are secure with no cuts or cracks... HELP!!!

    :sick:
  • bananaboybananaboy Member Posts: 2
    Had this problem before, removed the clamps from the battery terminals & cleaned them thoroughly (there was a lot of oxidisation on the terminals and it looked like the clamp on the positive terminal was arcing to the terminal on one small spot, not allowing enough current through) - problem seems to have disappeared.
  • spiderman229spiderman229 Member Posts: 6
    I have an aligment problem with my jeep grand cherokee 1995 5.2L
    look like the compleate from axel has move to the left a little

    I check my stabilazer shock and is liking oil. and the car keep puling me to the right of the street.

    I been doing some reading on the net and some playses they talk about the track bar. but seem to be ok with me.

    this is a problem that been hapening for a log time now but i think is time for me to fix it. I had dome aligment in the past but stil get the problem

    can anyone tell me what is the problem with my from axel
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Your stabilizer has nothing to do with the alignment. All it does is help to keep your vehicle from having too much "bump steer". Check your tire's air pressure, and also to see if the tread is badly or unevenly worn. Make sure you don't have a brake pad sticking (passenger side). All of these things, and more, can cause bad alignment, But these are the easiest to check and repair. Your track bar wouldn't have alot to do with it either. All it does is keep your axle centered from side to side under the vehicle. No offense, but next time use the spell checker so we can more clearly understand what the problem is that you're having. Let us know if that doesn't solve your problem! Thanks.
  • billyovermanbillyoverman Member Posts: 5
    Help! I have owned an 03' JGC for 2-1/2 years now and this will be the 4th time it has been in for the brakes. They are grabbing once again and I have an appointment for Friday with the dealership. The service consultant told me it sounded like the rotors were warped again...suprise! He said they could replace them if I wanted to pay for the parts ($100 per rotor) and they will cover the labor. Can anyone direct me to a TSB that might cover this? I'm tired of taking the Jeep in every 6 months for brake problems. I guess it's time to trade her in for a Ford.

    Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • jeep97jeep97 Member Posts: 1
    I wanted to know if you ever found out what the problem was with your 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Stalling. I have a 97 and it has been doing the same thing. So if you found out what the problem was please let me know.
  • spiderman229spiderman229 Member Posts: 6
    thanx.
    I think I know what the problem is. i belive are the bushing from the arms that hold the front axel in place.

    I will change those bushing since they look damege
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    These problems were supposed to have been corrected by the new design in 2002. Here is a TSB on those http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb_list.htm#0500302b

    FWIW, I had a 2000 GCL. I ended up replacing the rotors myself with aftermarket ones from AutoZone...list on them was less than $100 for the pair. If this is the 4th time to have the issue, I would contact D/C and demand that they cover everything because of re-occuring issues. Make it clear to the service manager at the dealer that if they do not go to bat for you, that the survey you get from D/C will reflect that by their low rating. (They did not stand up for me and got a low rating plus lost D/C a customer forever.)

    Have your docs (they should really already have access to that in their computer) on the previous brake problems. Explain to him nicely the timeline and repeated issues and ask nicely that they assist with having D/C cover the complete repair (dealership has a warranty rep that should be able to handle). If they don't, contact D/C directly. If they still don't replace the rotors with aftermarket and make know to the dealership and D/C your displeasure.

    Good luck, you may need it.

    Bill
  • pacnwpacnw Member Posts: 2
    1995 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LIMITED WITH SIMILAR PROBLEM. 120M MILES

    MY PROBLEM WHEN COLD ENGINE RPMS DROP CAR LUGS AND TRANSMISSION SLIPS BUT ONLY HAPPENS IN FIRST 5-10 MINUTES WHEN I DON'T WARM UP FOR 5 MINUTES. i HAD TRANSMISSION REBUILT @ 80,000. i KEEP JEEP TUNED UP @ ALL TIMES EXCEPT I HAVE NOT CHANGED THE OXY SENSORS ( BOUGHT JEEP WITH 60,000 MILES FROM MOM SO ALL OTHER SERVICE DONE @ DEALER)

    PS IM NEW TO THIS FORUM SO IF IVE POSTED IN WRONG AREA SORRY MAN
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Welcome to Edmunds - you're in the right discussion. People tend to skip over posts in ALL CAPS since they can be hard to read, so keep that in mind as you post.

    You may want to skim the Transmission Traumas? discussion while waiting for responses in here.

    Steve, Host
  • lukesjgclukesjgc Member Posts: 5
    replaced relay twice and only temporarily fixed the problem. Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor and Electric fan and fixed the overheating. Driving slow with A/C on last summer sent the gauge back up. Help! Where do I go from here??? Wire shorting out?
  • tthompson311tthompson311 Member Posts: 2
    from tthompson311-i just purchased a JGC 99 and my coolant light kept coming on saying that the level was low i noticed a leak of a green fluid -antifreeze- and had to get a new water pump installed. hope this helps. by the way do you know if i can put JGC limited headlights in a JGC laredo? thanks for the reply asap
  • dmiles2dmiles2 Member Posts: 1
    About a year ago I had to replace the front differential in my 94 jgc. Since then I have had a serious vibration at speeds above 40mph. Upon deceleration it gets worse. Slight steering inputs will cause it to go away for just a second and then it comes back. Any ideas on what this could be?
  • roberts8578roberts8578 Member Posts: 1
    My 97 grand Cherokee recently began doing a strange thing. From time to time the battery voltage gauge will begin to drop off and then the check gauges light comes on. As soon as I turn off all acssesories, blower, lights etc the gauge comes right back up. This vehicle has 100000 miles, runs great, it has the 4.0 liter six. I have cleaned the battery terminals and had the charging system checked. Anyone have any ideas?
  • phoenix4phoenix4 Member Posts: 1
    My 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee blows hot air out of the 2 center defrost vents when I set the control knob on floor only. The Jeep dealer said that was normal, however if you turn the floor heater on high, crack the window a little, there is enough hot air coming on your face that you feel like you're in a convertible. Any comments?? Thanks...
  • jeep4risyjeep4risy Member Posts: 2
    Had the same problem in a 2002 Grand Cherokee that we just purchased from a private party. Contacted Chrysler and told them this is my second Cherokee, and that I was new about the technical service bulletin. Asked if they would help out with correcting the problem (2002, 35,000miles, and no warranty). They asked me to pay the first $150 and they took care of the rest (dealer est. $1,100). I couldn't be happier, kudos to Chrysler for stepping up and taking care of the problem. :D
  • harsjeepharsjeep Member Posts: 5
    HI, I am new to this forum. I just recently bought a 95 jeep GC. I love this thing but quickly found a bunch of problems that have been discussed here. I took her to my local jeep dealer to find out they want to charge me over 4,000, bux to fix everything. like: rear needs to be rebuilt, viscous cup needs to be replaced, steering box is leaking, motor mounts are bad, and needs a trailing arm. now like i said i love this thing, and i'm not in a situation to buy another vehicle at this time, i had decided to list it for sale again, but then out of the blue i decided to keep her. i can't let go of it. years ago i had a 79 cherokee. i loved that old chugger. never had problems with it. but with all the things with this jeep, i don't know if i want to buy another.but for now i'm gonna start replacing things lil by lil, used parts of course, my goals are to lift this thing and make her a good 4x4. i have some friends that are jeep buffs and they are trying to help me get her straightened out. thank god for jeep buffs. if anyone can give me a moral boost or some good info please feel free to do so, i would greatly appreciate it. thanks and all for now.
    :confuse:
  • saucemansauceman Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited it did not have the radio in it! I was told by the previous owner that the radio is the "brain" of the whole JGCL. There is some kind of on board PC that can tell you what is up with your Jeep (low tiers, needs oil change, ect)built in to it. Is this true? I bought a used Radio for it and hooked it up and got nothing no light on radio nothing. Radio is a cool thing to have but getting out there to play is more Important. "Oil leak" I read that the area where the oil filter meets the block will warp and cause this in the 5.2 (318) Dodges if true how do I deal with that. Any or all help would be nice thank you.
  • wanda3wanda3 Member Posts: 2
    hello, I have a 1996 JGCL with the 5.2 V8. I have owned this jeep for 4 months with no problems. The owner before me keep up the maintenance well. Recently, as I pulled into a parking space it died on my, but started right back up. Then I noticed I had what felt like a looping type miss when I sat at idle. We had the idle air control check and was told it was fine. Then about 4 days later it died again and would not start. After a tow to mechanic, he determined it was the crankshaft sensor and it started fine. He also put it back on the scanner tool and said my coil was not putting out much spark and replaced that too. However, I have no other codes and my miss is still there. I dont really notice it when driving, but when I sit at a light it feels like it might died out. My husband says it looks as if previous owner had already done a tuneup, but when I pass somebody, I can see some brownish smoke like It was loading up. When we took out the idle air control it was all black from carbon. Can anyone offer help as we are stumped with no codes from computer. :sick:
  • tamiphiltamiphil Member Posts: 1
    Hey guess what I have the same rotor problem. I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it has chewed up 4 sets of rotors in less than 2 years. Dealer told me it was my driving style!! They want to replace the ones in their currently with a new kit and the want me to pay 543.00 for it. This is a bunch of BS. I have just come to realize that jeep is well aware of this problem and I feel they need to fix this mess. It is a defect. Please let me know what and how you are progressing becasue like you I am not done with this!!
  • kboston1kboston1 Member Posts: 1
    I have new 2006 JGC Limited 4WD. 600 miles. A “Service 4 W-Drive System” Message keeps on showing up on the dash. First time it popped up I brought it in to be serviced. They could not determine the reason. I was told everything looked fine and that it could have been a short to the circuit due to the cold weather. They reset it and told me to bring it back in if it this message showed up again. Well it has. I’m going to bring it back in however wanted to get some feed back from this forum 1st. Has anyone had this msg pop up on a new model JGC?
  • jeep4risyjeep4risy Member Posts: 2
    If you check out www.wjjeep.com you will find the details on the TSB for the warping rotors. A replacement version started showing up on models built around May of 02. I would call the Chrysler customer service number and explain you previous repairs, there isn't a valid reason for the dealership failing to upgrade at the first rotor failure. The new style caliper is silver in appearance vs. the black coloration of the old version, apparently the newer model allows for better heat dissipation.
  • bernr1bernr1 Member Posts: 8
    I read information about this problem on a different forum. Apparently this is common. I only found one post on this forum in regards to it but it didn't have any helpful information. :confuse:

    I have narrowed it down to the trunk (hatch) lock actuator. It makes an awful grinding noise when it opens and closes. So far I can still lock and unlock the trunk.

    I opened the rear panel and could see the actuator, it is clearly the motor. I would like to replace it but I can't find the part.

    Does anybody know where to get this part? I read it's about $200 from the dealer. I haven't called them to find out.
  • conan4conan4 Member Posts: 1
    We recently bought a 1996 JGC limited and the tailgate has a seperate lift window. We discovered today that the window in the lift gate is not locking (using either the key or remote). I had to take apart the inside of the tailgate anyway since the lift gate itself was not opening due to the connecting rod was not in its' clip (tie wrapped the bugger in there). The lift window is opened with an electric solenoid of some sort. I assume if it was locked there would be no power to it. Not sure if there is switch somewhere that is bad or where to start fixing this at. For now I disconnected the power to the lift window. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • weeezzzyyyweeezzzyyy Member Posts: 3
    I just bought a 2000 JGCL 4.0 Im new to Jeeps but Im definitely happy. Its fully loaded and Im working on pepping it up a little. I just purchased a Cold air intake and the tornado and installed both. things are going great so far. Just a couple questions on exhaust. I have a hole in my muffler and I want to just replace the whole system. If anyone can help me out on what systems I should go with since Ive looked and found a few different like magnaflow or borla and dont know which to go with. Also with remote starters I dont know where to go to get one if anyone has any advice it would be much appreciated. Thanks to all you Jeep enthusiasts :)
  • hornet2hornet2 Member Posts: 11
    My 1994 JGC has been pulling to the right for quite a while. I've replaced the tires, track bar, front end bushings, and had the alignment done. The vehicle has never been in an accident but the problem still persists. Is there anything else that might be causing the problem? The brakes aren't sticking, so rule that out. While driving, the steering wheel must be held in the 8 o'clock-2 o'clock position. Is there anything in the back end that could be causing this? How about the steering box or damper? Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
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