Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

1616264666799

Comments

  • bjh1225bjh1225 Member Posts: 1
    Our 1996 JGC has the sunroof stuck in the open position. My husband says it passed the limit switches when it opened. Does anyone know of a manual way that we can close the sunroof ? For now we have it parked with a tarp over the top of the vehicle.

    Thanks, bjh1225
  • dandgdandg Member Posts: 91
    it sounds like your alarm may be on and preventing it from starting.Try, locking and unlocking the door with the key to shut of alarm and then start the car and see if it will stay running.
    HTH
    Dave
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    Well, changing the coil was not the answer since the problem continues. Problem is intermittent as while it usually happens every time I drive it to some extent, sometimes it will run perfect for a longer trip. I have also replaced the spark plug wires just because they were the original ones although I doubt they are related to the problem. Jeep has an almost new battery in it and I cleaned and tightened those connections to eliminate them as a problem area. I also removed the connections to the PCM as per vicgonzales suggestion. They were properly seated with no signs of corrosion and bumping and moving the wires and connections while the Jeep was running had no ill effect. The check engine light has never come on and when I took it to Advance Auto they picked up no error codes. All dash lights and gauges continue to operate normally. Problem usually occurs after Jeep is warmed up but it did it yesterday after sitting all night and driving no more than a mile. Still open for suggestions.
  • paulmuel50paulmuel50 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. That was it. Any insight with the hesitation under acceleration? When I hammer the accelerator, it comes right out of it.
    Paul
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    If you still think it's electrical, check the battery connections at the other end of the cable, and any other grounds you can come up with. Some people add grounding kits but usually to try to fix different issues.
  • jreston68jreston68 Member Posts: 1
    Is there a part for the AC called the "Bladder Doors?" Or am I confusing it for the "Blower" motor?

    Having an issue with my 99 JGC LTD where the AC is on and is blowing, however, the air is not coming out of the Vents. It is as if there is something restricting the Air flow. I hit the dash once with my fist out of frustration and all of a sudden the AC started working! And the air was cold. But the problem is unpredictable, some times it works, other times it wont. And sometimes, after a half hour of not working, for no apparent reason it will start blowing cold air.

    Any idea as to where this problem might be originating?
  • dandgdandg Member Posts: 91
    hi Paul,
    pleased that worked with the alarm,I wish I could disable mine I even leave the key in it and hope someone will take the POS ! :)
    mine does that hesitation a little when first starting off as well,could be lots of things,IAC,Wires,injectors dirty.I think I mine could use some wires and plugs cause it seems to be worse when damp out.Does it doe it all the time on yours?
  • chaoticdadchaoticdad Member Posts: 2
    I was reading some of the PCM and MAP discussions (I have a '94 JCG limited and am encountering stuttering and stalling). When I hooked up the battery again, the lights are blinking on and off. Obviously, I've done something wrong with the security/alarm. Any ideas of what I've done and how to remedy? (you should know that we have had problems with the key remote before (doesn't work) and if the Jeep was locked and you opened the passenger side before the driver's side (with the key), the alarm would go off. Now the alarm isn't going off, but clearly it's got something to do with it because the word security is flashing in the dash).

    Thanks in advance.
  • chaoticdadchaoticdad Member Posts: 2
    Okay, so I'm a goofball! I didn't read the earlier post correctly about the key in the door (locking, then unlocking). That worked. Sure, it's still running rough, but at least it's running. Now I really have to go back and check the forum details around the MAP. I think that is more the problem then my PCM.

    Thanks to everyone who make this forum work. I almost caved-in and took it to a dealer, who wanted me to have him tow it to his shop. This forum just saved me hundreds of dollars. I'm not saying there's not value in a shop, because there is, I'm just saying that my "little" set of fixes are saving me a ton right now, as I'm between jobs.

    Thanks again!
  • adam1975adam1975 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem, Do I have to replace the transfer case? :(
  • whattodo2whattodo2 Member Posts: 18
    I just had my trannie completely rebuilt and the transfer case and differentials inspected and maintenanced; but the VC problem remains. According to the shop, this is a problem worth ignoring and not worth fixing (you tend to trust someone who not only fixes your vehicle correctly for a VERY reasonable price, but also turns down business he doesn't feel is in the best interest of the customer!). He specifically told me it will do NO damage to the vehicle, particularly the drivetrain or transfer case. Just an irritant which will probably wear the tires a little bit more quickly... Just my experience!
  • jdcimtsjdcimts Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 gcl and the malfunction light/check engine light comes on. I had it tested and the generic scan tool code showed p1762 -can anyone help me- to steer me in the right direction to get this repaired?
  • mochabeanmochabean Member Posts: 1
    We have on 05 GC limited with the 4.7 awd quad II and experience a similar vibration between 58-65, under power, coasting or braking. We had the front drive shaft replaced - tech thought it was out of balance. seemed to go away but now at 21M seems worse than before. I believe it is in the front trans axle - going back in next week to hear the service tech guess. Also, have an issue with ALL warning lights coming on for no reason. No error codes found - twice, tonight was 3rd time. If nothing is found Jeep is going to lose a customer (we have had jeeps since 92)- I just cannot accept mysteries after paying almost $40M!
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    For what it's worth, P1762 is "Sensor input greater or less than calibration for 3 consecutive Neural/Park occurances. It refers to the Governor pressure sensor.
  • ponygirl1ponygirl1 Member Posts: 7
    I have posted a comment a long time ago about my jeep having issues with cutting out while driving or just not wanting to start. I also posted about changing the coil and cleaning off the battery and connections. Now that we have done this we havent really had too many issues with it. The jeep only does it when gets too hot outside and driving for an extended period of time. I still havent found the exact reason for this but have been continuing to research for future problems or others who post of this issue. I have to say that a jeep had always been a dream car for me but since the issues that have been involved and me having children present while it happens I will never own another one.
  • jbarron526jbarron526 Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought an 05 JGC Laredo, actually it'll be a month on Sept. 18th. Anyhow, I've had it in the shop 3 times already for the severe vibration/grinding noise in 4th gear around 50-60 mph. They've yet to find out the problem and told me it was the "nature of the beast". Yeah right. Anyhow, they completely rebuilt the rear diff and have ran numerous tests on the tranny, but they keep telling me nothing's wrong. I also have a hard clunk when hitting the accelerator and when braking. I'm assuming it's the drive shaft or U-joint, but they also told me that there's nothing wrong in that aspect. What a POS! I'm currently trying to get the dealership to refund my money. This should be fun!
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    After having the shop I took my Jeep too run out of ideas without going to total guess work, I took it home. I rechecked for any problem under the hood and once again found nothing. I decided to take the plunge and invest in a new PCM because I couldn't think of anything else it could be. It only took about 15 minutes to install and so far after having the Jeep out three times on long and short trips it runs great. It cost $254 for the PCM at the parts store with a one year warranty but it was already flashed so I didn't need to go to the dealer to get reprogramed. My only other option would have been to go to the dealer and the same repair would have been around $600 for them to do it. Sometimes there just isn't a cheap solution...
  • gbobbingbobbin Member Posts: 1
    We have a 93 jeep grand cherokee and seem to have a similar problem. The car will not start immediately. It will crank but not start. If you wait about 30 seconds with the ignition key on, you will see the security light come on, then the service light. When the service light comes on, you here the automatic shut down relay chatter then energize and the fuel pump relay energizes. The car will then start. It seems the duration to wait is getting longer, it takes about 60 seconds for this to happen now. If you try to restart the car it will start immediately. But if you wait for 5 minutes you need to wait to start it.

    We checked the auto shutdown relay by putting it into the fog light relay socket and turning it on and off. seemed to operate without chattering.

    Any suggestions?
  • jmp54jmp54 Member Posts: 6
    Well my experience with Jeep is caveat emptor. I know that it is 20-20 hind sight but if you read my earlier posts about my 04 JGC Ltd. It ran fine until about 20,000 miles and then began to idle roughly, took it to 3(three) different Jeep dealers, all say the same thing, that's normal for that engine (4.7 litre High Output). I asked the dealer that I purchased it from regarding why I wasn't told about this and never did get a reply. Needless to say that contacting Jeep customer service was of ABSOLUTELY OF NO USE, I asked if there was a technician at the plant that could explain it I was told that all customer service would do is refer me to another dealer, my reply was, I have a telephone book and can do that myself and that what he was doing was of no help and that in the future that I would be buying something other than Jeep or Chrysler products BTW this is the fourth (4th) JGC Ltd as well as one Chrysler Sebring convertible. His reply was "thats your decision" I then said to remove me from any future mailings, etc., he said that that wasn't a problem. I guess that car sales for them are so good that you can lose customers. I don't know how the next car company will treat me when I buy the next vehicle but I can guarantee you one thing, IT WON'T BE A JEEP, seeing how they treat their customers BTW the customer service person was very surly.
    In closing good luck but don't expect anything assistance from Jeep.
    LET THE BUYER BEWARE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • jdejeephemijdejeephemi Member Posts: 33
    I too have a had a vibration but it was between 70 and 80 mph. What they did change was the rear and front prop shaft. IT IS A PROBLEM JEPP IS AWARE OF. Also my tires were bad. Two of the tires had flat spot which only aided in the vibration problem. My problem is fixed now. Also what engine do you have in the JGC? I know they have had many problems with the 3.7L.
  • wyoaj1960wyoaj1960 Member Posts: 1
    IVE RECENTLY GOTTEN A93 GRAND CHEROKEE WITH THE AW4 AUTO TRANS, THE JEEP HAD BEEN IN AN CRASH,SINCE THE PRICE WAS RIGHT I WENT AHEAD AND FIXED IT.THE PROBLEM NOW IS THE TRANS ONLY SHIFTS FROM 1ST TO 2ND AND SEEM TO GO INTO NEUTRAL WHEN I LET OFF THE GAS. IVE REPLACED THE TRANS THINKING THAT SOMETHING WAS DAMAGED IN THE WRECK AND ALSO REPLACED THE TRANS CONTROL MODULE ,BUT THE NEW TRANS DOES THE SAME THING AS THE OLD ONE.IT STILL WONT SHIFT INTO 3RD.EVERYTHING ELSE WORKS FINE. ANY ADVICE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIEATED
  • mgpvmgpv Member Posts: 3
    I'm currently looking at a '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4WD w/124K miles. Body and interior are in decent shape (inside clean, outside has cracked plastic bumper cover in front, and dent below driver's side doors). Asking price is about $2,900.

    On an extended test drive, I noticed the following issues:

    1) Loud noise when making slow sharp turns (like into a parking space), particularly when turning right.

    2) Power door locks unlock, but do not lock, from either the driver's side switch or the passenger side switch.

    3) "Service 4WD Switch" and "Rear Light" messages appear on the center dash display panel.

    I know that some of these questions have been at least partially addressed in other posts, but I would appreciate new feedback.

    I would also appreciate any comments on what else to expect with this vehicle after 125K miles, and whether it's worth buying at this price given this model's below-average reliability rating.

    Thanks!
  • ebeaudryebeaudry Member Posts: 1
    can you let me know what number you called i have the same problem and no one whants to pay :(
  • dandgdandg Member Posts: 91
    short answer no its not worth 2900,in fact your probably better off looking at a different make altogether.These Jeep GC's are not good used (or new for that matter)Vech to buy.
    Your loud noise when turning slow could be a Viscous coupling (at least 800 bucks),the power door locks are minor and expected on a Jeep this old,the Service 4wd switch is also very common,you can replace the swithc,the VSS and even the TCM and it may still make that message come up.
    Run form the POS and buy a Toyota.
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    If you have some mechanical aptitude this might be a vehicle to consider, but not if you would have to take it to someone to work on. Labor can get very expensive. If the vehicle was perfect inside and out $2900 would be about right but with the problems you listed it's probably worth closer to $1900. Use the used car value estimator on the Edmund's site and be careful you don't evaluate with rose colored glasses. Jeeps can be a good used buy, but remember the fancier any vehicle is the more there is to go wrong when it gets older! I
  • mgpvmgpv Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for taking the time to answer. From what I am learning about this vehicle, your comments seem to be right on the money.
  • dosbossdosboss Member Posts: 2
    I see you have a "grinding noise" when turning - does the vehicle also "hop" on turns on pavement? This could be because the 4WD is still engaged even though the lever is in 2WD position. It will unlock on a lift, but not on the ground. I found out the hard way that my '95 GJC Laredo had this problem because the dealer had put different sized tires on the front and rear. Apparently the difference in diameter was enough to keep the mechanically locked transfer case from unlocking. Always use the same size tires on a 4WD drive vehicle. This stumped 3 mechanics, BTW, including two factory-trained Dodge/Jeep dealer ones.
  • dandgdandg Member Posts: 91
    go on ebay and see what they actually sell for much better to for market price !That jeep with the problems you stated is probably worth about 1000 .I bought mine with 125K and bad trans for $1.00 and put about 1200 in it (managed a trans shop so work was at cost) with trans, battery,brakes,pistons for rear door.Then put the Viscous coupling later from same noise that jeep is making (they last about 80-100k).The AWD systems in the Jeeps (and other vech)must have all the same brand and size tires on all 4 or the transfe case will do a melt down.Pass on that 2900 jeep that needs work and you will be pleased you did not spend even more on it after you buy it.
  • mgpvmgpv Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for your post. I agree with your assessment, and I'm passing on the Jeep. Just curious - how much did it cost you for the Viscous coupling?
  • deebee1deebee1 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a Grand Jeep Cherokee and the door will not unlock with the grey key manually nor will it open with the remote. I bought a new battery and still cannot get into the new jeep, I just bought..Went to drive my old car to work and the battery was dead.. Anyway I found this website today and after speaking to co-workers they agreed it was probaly the chip inside the remote and it stops everything from working, so I will call the Dealership in the morning and give them the Vin#. What did you find our?
  • deebee1deebee1 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, the keyless remote has stopped working and the key Never manually opened the door anyway. After reading these post's I assume it's the chip in the remote. I am going to call the dealership tomorrow..anyone else have any idea's, I already replaced the battery and that did not work.
  • hjainhjain Member Posts: 3
    I have been at Nissan and had a Maurano and had just as many problems with it and Nissan just like Jeep were no help. Pick a Toyota or Honda. They might be plain but reliable.
  • hjainhjain Member Posts: 3
    I purchased a 2005 JGC and I have been having these sort of problems since 4000 Miles. They keep telling me there have never seen problems like these and have done nothing. I have no letter of a class action though, am I missing something? Please let me know.
  • hjainhjain Member Posts: 3
    I also live in NY and have purchsed a 05 JGC Limited in August of last year and have taken it in several times with ideling issues and also with stalling issues. They cannot replacate the issue and have done nothing I am really getting annoyed and would like to take similar steps if possible. Any advise on a lawyer or steps?

    Any help would be great.
  • orbeckorbeck Member Posts: 2
    93 GCJ. When engine is running, I will lose ground to fuel pump and power to fuel pump relay, at the same time. Main computer has been replaced, no change. Suggestions?
  • limited01999limited01999 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 JGC. When I use the heater it will only get luke warm. I have changed the thermostat and flushed the radiator. If I start it up and keep reving it up, I will get heat, but once I start driving I lose it. Also, the A/C will only get cool. The blower seems to work. Any ideas?
  • dandgdandg Member Posts: 91
    I think thats a good move looking for another one (or maybe a Toyota-Honda) The Viscous coupling is about 600 wholesale from Jeep dealer as I recall I was able to find a after market one from a factory that rebuilds transfer cases and thing it was 350-400.It take about 30mins for a tech to put it in,the t case does not have to come out,they just remove the back of the case and swap out the coupling.If you end up getting a jeep and it has that problem shop around and see if you can find a good deal.We sued to charge 750 for the after market one installed and warranty.
    HTH
  • rboldsrbolds Member Posts: 1
    This seems like an odd one but I have a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. 160K+ miles and still runs decent. In cold weather though, it has a hard time shifing out of 2nd gear. I generally have to spped up, then slow down a few times in order to get it to shift out of 2nd. In the summer and fall, when it is warm, no problems. As is it starting to get cold, I am anticipating problems. Any ideas?
  • poatwpoatw Member Posts: 1
    I bought a Jeep 4 months ago and within 4 weeks of buying it the battery was flat. The garage put a new battery and this has now gone flat. They tested the alternator and this is OK and say they can't find any reason why the battery would go flat. Has anyone experienced the same or have any ideas?
  • nls777nls777 Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee... How can I turn off the seat belt reminder chime??? Looked in manual. Does not give any solutions... Can any one please help!!!!!!!!!!
  • ghurka3ghurka3 Member Posts: 1
    I have 01 JGC 4WD and just had all four rotors replaced. Before I took it to the shop and even after the rotor replacement, I get a sound coming from the front like a baseball card stuck in the spokes of a bike tire whenever I press the brake pedal. Everyone I have talked to just gives me blank looks and the two shops I have went to say that they cant find anything wrong. Please help.
  • theedetectivetheedetective Member Posts: 2
    I too have had this intermittant stalling problem on my 96 JGC over the last 18 months and I believe I have the solution for ALL those out there with the same problem. I've replaced all the usual suspects: 3 PCMs, 2 Coils, 2 Crank Sensors, distributor, main power wiring harness, 2 fuel filters, checked all the grounds.... I kept getting the error code P0351 Ignition Coil #1 primary circuit and the tech kept telling me that the Coil was bad. Long story short the Stealership's PCM didn't fix it, their Coil didn't fix it...so they put me in a new Commander for a week and low and behold they found the problem. Somewhere in the wiring from the ignition coil to the PCM there was a short...so instead of replacing that whole wiring harness they just ran a wire (maybe a ground) directly from the coil to the PCM and IT IS FIXED!!!!! Hope this helps...
  • theedetectivetheedetective Member Posts: 2
    bdutton: see my post #3348 for a possible solution to your stalling problems...after changing everything and spending a bundle...I finally found a solution for the stalling.
  • ponygirl1ponygirl1 Member Posts: 7
    I too have a 94 GJC laredo and have found that I had oil in my air filter. I changed this and also pit it into the shop for a new cadillac convertor to be put on due to trying to stall when going up hills and sometimes just while accelerating, also acting as if not getting good ventilation. I had before this changed the coil and put new battery terminals on the battery. I am getting frustrated due to my problem still occurring. What do you think, could it be the ccv hose as you explained? I dont want to spend to much more money on it and also tired of searching for the right solution. Please reply back soon and let me know what you think.
  • quadringquadring Member Posts: 20
    If you feel a pulsing when applying the brakes, the rotors are warped...99% of the time it is the front rotors. Have them replaced, and then go easy on the brakes as much as possible. 1999-2004 Grand Cherokees have a big problem with warping the rotors, and there is no solution except to fix it when it happens.
  • quadringquadring Member Posts: 20
    Most of the new Jeep vehicles (Grand Cherokee and Commander) with the 4.7L engine are having an intermittent stalling problem. I feel it is idle-control related. There is NO solution at this time. Jeep engineers are aware of the problem. My prediction is that there will be a PCM flash (reprogramming the engine computer) in the future. Until then, sorry to say, quit stressing out, please be patient.
  • quadringquadring Member Posts: 20
    Please fasten your seatbelt to silence the chime.
  • quadringquadring Member Posts: 20
    There is no fix for this yet...I am hoping that DaimlerChrysler will come out with a bulletin soon, or maybe a recall. Have to wait and see.
  • quadringquadring Member Posts: 20
    I have the best fix for the clogged a/c drain...I did it to my 95 Grand. Remove the right front tire. Unbolt the brake line/wheel speed sensor wiring from the body and move it aside. Use a high speed cut off wheel to open a square hole in the frame to provide access to the evap drain. You will have to logically estimate where to begin cutting. Start with a fairly small hole and shine a light inside until you find the drain. Enlarge the hole as needed. Your Jeep dealer has a rubber hose-type drain tube for Jeep Wrangler...it is probably 6 inches long and sort of "L" shaped. Very inexpensive. Put this drain tube on and run the a/c...you should feel a small amount of air coming out, along with water. If not, spray your garden hose up the tube to dislodge the debris. The drain tube hidden in the frame is just a crappy design. Consider it re-engineered.
  • quadringquadring Member Posts: 20
    Those oil filter adapters are very difficult to remove. I usually use an air-hammer with a chisel bit to cut a small notch, then use a flat bit to rotate the big torx. Once you get it to turn a little, then you can use normal means to remove it. The o-ring kit is very inexpensive and will stop the leak. It is not related in any way to the PCV system as someone else replied.
Sign In or Register to comment.