Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

1656668707199

Comments

  • xcpresch007xcpresch007 Member Posts: 2
    Well that's not too encouraging. My car has been in twice MDS? What is that? I heard it might be the rear differential, although the dealer claims to have already checked it out.
  • franouxfranoux Member Posts: 1
    Answer!
    This is a problem well known to Jeep & think that they did a recall in the States - no such luck in the UK. My dealer tried to say that the whole computer system needed to be replaced...
    Problem lies just behind the glovebox & it's the Blower Motor Relay / Resistor Motor. Part costs about £100. The part numbers are below:

    Jeep Computer
    05012699AA
    2000 WJ Grand Cherokee
    s24 Aircon & Heating
    ss000160
    Item 12
    Service Repair Kit 05102406AA
  • hemi27hemi27 Member Posts: 4
    Your situation sounds all to familiar. They started off by saying it was the rear differential in mine. It checked out fine. Then they moved on to saying it was something with the exhaust. The most recent was "It needs a new rear-end". After a new rear end and many days in the shop it still made that noise. That's when I knew they were just testing my patience. They knew I would give up sooner or later. That was the only thing they were right about... cause I sold it a week ago! MDS is short for Multi Displacement System. You should do some research on it. :lemon:
  • gordo36gordo36 Member Posts: 9
    I have an 08 JGC Ltd and had the "howling" noise also. After 3 trips to the dealer they replaced the front differential and it has been fine for the last 2K miles.
    I was determined to keep taking it back to the dealer until it was fixed. I'm retired, so I had plenty of time to keep after them. I think they do try to wear your patience thin though.
  • gordo36gordo36 Member Posts: 9
    I meant to say an "06 JGC LTD" with the Hemi!
  • jrtradesjrtrades Member Posts: 1
    I have had the same issue and get the same answer "they all do that" from the district service manager. There have been many threads on many site on this. I know one person that just traded his for a 2006 because he could no longer take it. Issue still exists but not as bad so he says.
  • clwm2dlwclwm2dlw Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone assist me with a power seat issue. The drivers side seat creaks quite often. Tried WD40. Helped for a few days. Any ideas?
  • captinhectorcaptinhector Member Posts: 2
    Ok guys, from a long time Jeep driver, I own a '93 Cherokee 2wd 4.0HO with 175k miles which is my daily. MOST C/GC's have made this noise after they first time they were ran low on gas on a hot day. The noise you are hearing is the in tank fuel pump. I'm sorry to say that it will whine FOREVER, until the stock fuel system is replaced, you just have to get used to it.
    Sorry guys :(
  • blackbird220blackbird220 Member Posts: 3
    You can replace them with after-market lights for about 160.00 and are easy to install. Also Shell oil sells a product for wind screens on small planes that gives excellent uv protection, you can find it at small airports for about 12.00 a bottle.
  • blackbird220blackbird220 Member Posts: 3
    My 1994 GGC 5.2 Stalls soon after starting. It started out missing and backfiring and a top speed of about 30 mph then finally all it will do now is start and die. any suggestions? :confuse:
  • nwilliams1nwilliams1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 JGC Limited with ~48,000 that I am taking in to the dealership for service next week. Current problems are:

    1) Malfunction Indicator Light is on, and the code displayed is P0601- PCM Internal Controller Failure.
    2) Since 5,000, the car has displayed a message that the passenger side door is open even when it isn't. I've had this fixed 3 times (they've tightened connectors and replaced sensors) but it will just work for a week or so and then break again. Weird thing is, sometimes I'll be driving and suddenly the door will register as closed.
    3) Heated seats don't work on either side

    I've read that there is a federal 8 year/80,000 mile warranty on the PCM, but that sometimes dealerships are reluctant to replace this part. Does that code mean the PCM needs to be replaced? Also, are these problems related or independent?

    Thanks for your help-
    Natalie
  • blanksterblankster Member Posts: 29
    PCM should be covered under emissions warranty. Heated seats have been known to fail (they quit on our 2001)due to stretched wires. There are kits to fix them (via dealer) Door open signal could be related to the faulty PCM.
  • pinguinpinguin Member Posts: 1
    HELP! I CAN'T START MY 97 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE BECAUSE THE LOCK IS STUCK ON THE DOOR REMOTE SO THE ALARM IS ON. HOW DO YOU REPROGRAM IT? I AM IN DENVER,CO AND ALL DEALERS ARE CLOSED DUE TO THE BLIZZARD. I HAVE DUG ABOUT 4 FEET OF SNOW OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY BUT NOW I CAN'T START MY TRUCK.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    You can disarm the alarm by sticking the key in the door lock to open it.

    As to the remote, take a quarter and open the remote and remove the battery. This will prevent it from locking the doors. Good luck, and stay off of I-70
  • cdplayercdplayer Member Posts: 18
    Owners manual has no info on this. I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/41,000 miles and the HO V8. Always had dino oil. But is it cool to use Mobil 1 in the HO V8 without fouling any sensors?
    Anyone out there who may be using this product for awhile?
    Cost for the oil is not an issue. Would like to extend the life of this engine as far as posible. Thanks in advance
  • tarheel5tarheel5 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 97 JGC and my remote will not lock or unlock the driver side door but will lock and unlock all of the other doors. Any ideas as to what the problem could be and how to fix it.
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    My 1994 5.2 just did this today, I turned it on it idled smooth for about 10-15 secs and cut off. No sputtering no "stalling" just cut straight off, as if I had turned the ignition off. And it will not start back, it turns over just won't start. I haven't had a good chance to look at it yet and am just looking to find the best place to start. I believe it to be an electrical problem, be it a fuse or relay or short. Dunno yet. Any ideas?
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    Does your door switch work? Check the wires running in and through your drivers door for cracks, breaks, and abnormal bends. Has this problem been there since you acquired the Jeep? or has it happened recently?
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    There are 2 scenarios:#1 check your plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button. You could very possibly have a few wires crossed and or not connected. My old fadota did this when I pulled the plugs off at one time and replaced them wrong. After driving for a while like this your plugs may foul, which would explain why it wont even start now. By the way did it idle smooth when it would run?
    #2 Also, check your fuel pump and/or filter. If your pump is bad or your filter clogged it will starve your engine of precious fuel and cause it to "miss". If when you would push the throttle it would cut back, this would be the problem. It would severely affect performance. Just check everything I said. I too have a 94 with the 5.2 and the fuel pump did mine that way. The way to check your fuel pump is to have some on turn your ignition to the on position with you standing in back of your jeep, even laying under your fuel tank, listening for a "whirr" or "buzz". If you don't hear anything your fuel pump is gone. If you do then check your fuel filter its on the fuel line in front of the tank. Take it off and replace it. I hope this solves your issue. BTW a fuel pump will set you back about $300.
  • tarheel5tarheel5 Member Posts: 3
    I just bought the Jeep last week and I just noticed the problem. I thought it was locked and a friend opened the driver side after I had supposedly locked the Jeep with my remote. I have since noticed that when I am driving down the road and when the doors lock automatically the driver door does not lock.
  • coderedcodered Member Posts: 43
    i have a 96 grand with a 5.2.. when drove for sometime it gets a oil pressure gage problem.. if i drive for bout 25 or 30 mins at 0psi..it ticks sounds like lifters.. does anyone know a fix???? last year put oilpump and sending unit on it ... any help would be great thanks billy
  • jeepdtjeepdt Member Posts: 15
    I believe Ellen DiGenerus said it best " There was a noise coming from my car...I fixed it by buying a louder radio". What can you do when they tell you its normal? :P
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    Keep a damn close eye on your oil level. My 5.2 ticks when oil is low, 5.2s are notorious for drinking oil... and/or something may have gotten in your oil and clogged your pump screen, get some engine flush and put it in before your next oil change.
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    Someone may have gotten into it before... so, if you are slightly or moreso mechanically inclined take your door panel off and check the connections.
  • mimi139mimi139 Member Posts: 9
    My check engine light came on about three weeks ago and I had it checked by a shop which they cleared the code and told me to drive and see if it comes up again. The check engine light just came on again giving the same code as before P0118 ECT sensor so I had it replaced and the code was cleared out. About a half a hour later the check engine light came on again and I had my heat running. I came home and turn the ignition key three times only to get the same code P0118. Don't know what I should have to get checked out now. I can't find anything related within the forum similiar to the trouble I am having with my 2001 Jeep Laredo 4.0 engine. Is it safe to drive? And for how long? Do I have to have it cleared again because it may have been done incorrectly? help.image
  • arcticdudearcticdude Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem Has anyone had any luck fixing this problem.
  • cdplayercdplayer Member Posts: 18
    I no longer have my '97 but before I sold it I found information on another site that lead to cold soldering issues with the head unit on these not so great stereos. Try using jeepsunlimited.com/forums for a search on your model Infinity Stereo problems. Most people just replace the system. There are voltage issues that new units cause with these Jeeps too. Log on to Crutchfield.com for the stereo units that may work with your model Jeep. Then search for best prices for that unit if you chose to replace the stereo.
    If you have the time and the problem is not in the head unit
    you need to remove the headliner from the rear to access an FM connection. I do not have the shop CD with me anymore. But I think the part that sometimes fails at this location is a modulator or something. Anyway it has something to do with receiving the FM signal along with the fender mounted antenna. The CD and perhaps a printed copy of the manual showed the location of the modulator on the passenger rear side inside the headliner.
  • mhurt2121mhurt2121 Member Posts: 1
    front-rear differential problem getting hot at highway speeds. also noisy after driving for 20 minutes. anyone have any advice as to how i might fix it?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    Have a 2000 jgc and have used mob1 for 3 years have 155000 miles on jeep no oil use and go 7500 miles between changes

    love my jeep
  • jerry50jerry50 Member Posts: 6
    Have a 2002 GC Ltd w/V8 and have used Mobil 1 since first oil change after buying new. No problem w/sensors, got 10% better mpg after switch along with improved power over the standard six cyc, which I have had three over the years. Change oil every 3K w/new filter and w 86K, no leaks and no internal loss. Also, K&N air filter helps over stock paper. According to Mobil One site, synthetic reduces engine operating temp about 20 degrees which also helps with extending life of electronic components. Good luck
  • rtribblertribble Member Posts: 45
    I own a 1994 JGC with 145K on it. Within the last year it has started eating ignition coils when I take it on the highway for an extended period of time for one hour or more. Believing resistance to be the problem, I have replaced all the plugs, plug wires, etc. and it continues to burn the coils up. Any ideas of what is causing this and remedies would be appreciated.
  • matriculated01matriculated01 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2002 JGC Laredo, 100K on it, and I have a couple of problems. Hope somebody knows what they might be. Any help will be appreciated.
    Ok, #1: After running for awhile, maybe 15-30 mins, engine starts to occasionally idle rough when stopped for a red light. It doesn't do it all the time, but still quite often. I've heard some suggestions, like: plugs, fuel injection system clogged up, fuel pump, exhaust... anybody had a similar problem?
    #2. When I turn left a certain way (turning right and then turning left) there's a knocking sound coming from my left wheel. Any suggestions what this might be?
  • sedenjeepsedenjeep Member Posts: 3
    I have a similar problem. My remote would unlock all the doors except driver's side so when i started the car, it would die on me because the alarm would shut it off. I had my 99 GC for about 4 years and it started happening after I had the engine replaced this summer (at a non-dealer shop). Then i took it to Jeep dealer and they said it was the BCM board so they replaced it (charged me $750) and now (4 months later), it is happening again! They are now saying it is a short with the wires and they already charged me $400 and still havent found the problem. Is there a way to bypass/dis-engage the alarm so the car can run? Do you have any idea what can cause this and how they can fix? I am really fed up with the dealer and I really feel like they are taking advantage of me because I am a female. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. Sorry the message is too long.
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    Just don't use your lock switch on the driver door, just manually lock the slider. It will not engage the alarm, so the alarm will not be able to disengage the engine. Yeah, I would be pushing the dealership to take some action or threaten calling the better business bureau, b/c you sent it to them to fix a particular problem and they gave you a particular solution and it still DID NOT fix the problem. Ask for either the problem to be fixed for FREE or for you $1150 back, if nothing else then just labor with fixing the problem for free(and you pay for parts only). If they don't want to listen ask for their manager if they don't listen ask for the General Manager, and finally go to the OWNER, and even then, if he/she doesn't listen go to DC and the Better Business Bureau. Someone will listen along the lines, I know I don't hav $1150 to just throw around even if I did I would still want my money to be put to GOOD use. Be confident and well spoken(and maybe have a little attitude--not too much tho). And to address the rest of your concerns... This can be caused by a few things #1 a bad battery(go to your local parts store and have them check it-shouldn't cost anything at most $5). #2 A short in the wiring in the LEFT door(this is an isolated problem just to the drivers door so they should have checked that wiring harness FIRST!). #3 The switch. #4 The last resort is the BCM(this would have a more widespread problem--more doors not locking). They MAY be trying to take advantage of you, or it could just be they DON'T know what the problem is, and they are charging you for it. BTW most dealerships have a charge just for looking at your car, so I would suggest-Don't go there again, and IF you do make them not charge you for looking at your car until they've figured out the problem(tell them if they can't do that you will go somewhere that can). This should be a fairly easy fix tho, the part of the wiring that bends the most(thus causing a short--break in the wire) should be available seperately. Sorry for rambling. I hope this helps you.
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    Though you don't have many miles on the engine you do have old wiring. Check for a short, break, bend, crack or something wrong in the wires running to the coil. A shorted wire could contact a ground somewhere and send neg. and postive feed through to your coil the wrong way.
  • jeepinjoeszjjeepinjoeszj Member Posts: 27
    I've had a similar problem with my 94 5.2-though we have different engines symptoms and cures will be similar.
    To #1--Check for vacuum leaks near or on--the throttle body, or the intake manifold. There will be a slight hissing sound while idling.-- Check the PCV vavle and CCV hose, they could be clogged and their only like $5. Check your fuel and air filters. Just remember to check the cheapest and easiest things first, they're usually the first things to cause problems, plus they're cheap and easy :-D.
    To#2 sounds like your ball joints may be going bad. Or maybe they're just loose or starving for chassis lube. Have someone check torque and lube your suspension/steering components(these are always neglected therefor always problematic.

    I hope I helped.
  • rolljrollj Member Posts: 13
    I HAD A FLOWMASTER DELTA 50 SERIES SUV PUT ON AND IT SOUNDS GREAT EVEN WITH THE RESONATOR STILL ON. I ORIGINALLY HAD A DYNOMAX 2 CHAMBER MUFFLER PUT ON BUT THAT WAS INSANELY LOUD SO I REPLACED IT WITH THE FLOWMASTER. I WANTED THE DYNOMAX MUFFLER BECAUSE THEY ARE ALL STAINLESS STEEL BUT STILL THEY ARE WAY TO LOUD. THE PROBLEM WITH REPLACING THE MUFFLER IS WHERE IT SITS UNDER THE VEHICLE, IF ITS TOO LOUD IT RESONATES THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE VEHICLE. THE FLOWMASTER MUFFLER COSTS ABOUT $100 BUCKS AND I ONLY PAID $80 FOR THE INSTALL. HOPE THIS HELPS.
    (P.S. I WAS TOLD NOT TO REMOVE THE RESONATOR THAT SITS AT THE BUMPER BECAUSE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF GETTING AN EXHAUST DRONE WHEN DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    INSANELY LOUD - you mean the muffler was kinda like someone posting in ALL CAPS? ;);)

    You've been here a while so you probably know that all caps is harder for most of us to read, and many people just skip over those posts. I'm guessing you need a Flowmaster keyboard now. :shades:
  • sedenjeepsedenjeep Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for your response. 4 months ago, they had already changed the BCM and didnt investigate further to see what made the BCM go bad. I got my Jeep back and it ended up being $650 (so total of $1400!!!). They said there was a short with the wires (it took them 9 hours to find where it was!!!). They claim that some wires had corrosion which melted the wires causing the short. I am trading in my jeep today for a Mazda RX-8 and I am NEVER buying a Jeep again! I was going to file all kinds of complaints but now I am at a point where I just want to put it behind me and try to think they had good intentions. Thank you for your message! Good luck with your Jeep! :)
  • tennisgaltennisgal Member Posts: 7
    I have a 98 JGC with 50k miles that has been driven with care. About 6 months ago I started hearing a sloshing sound on the passenger side near the dash when I turned a corner, rounded a curve, etc. and it got louder and more frequent over time. The dealer told me I needed a new radiator to the tune of approx. $750. The problem came back within days and got worse again. The dealer fixed it again for no charge, and within a couple of days the problem is back. Apparently there is coolant sloshing around in the hose but why it cannot be permanently fixed is beyond me. It is really loud and annoying. Any suggestions?
  • tandy1tandy1 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 95 jgc that has the same problem, it will run fin for about 3 or 4 days and then i will go to start it wether it was sitting all night or i just shut it off to fill up with gas and it wont turn over. all the lights will come on but when i turn the key foward there is just a click and it is as if i just turned the key to acc. i have to disconnect the battery for about 15-20 min and just it to start the car. i have been to my local stereo shop and had the owner who i am very good frinds with check out the whole alarm wiring and relays for the starter and he sed it very well may be the celonoid in my starter.
  • samm1samm1 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1989 jeep cherokee and im having problems with using alot of my accessoires and lights. when i start my jeep the battery gage shows a good 14, but when i turn on my lights, heater or anyother accessory then the battery power drops almost instantly killing my jeep. I just replaced my alternator and coils and the problems still persists. any ideads on what it might be and how i could fix it??
  • dandgdandg Member Posts: 91
    My 94 Jeep GC ,5.2,154K on it, has been kicking a "high voltage from O2 sensor" code. I replaced the sensor a while back and although it seemed to be solved for a bit it is now returning intermitantly.I hooked it up to a friends scanner and could see the o2 volts climp over 1.20 and the check engine light kick on.It seems to top out at 1.40.

    Any ideas? PCM? (there is also the most common "check 4 wheel drive switch" light and beeb that has been on and off over the three years I owned it)
    Relay? read where ASD relay is in that loop,but not sure if a relay could be intermitant.
    Anyone else been down this road?New Sensor seem to be working as it shows below 1.0 when light is not on changes voltage when driving it
  • svienssviens Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee and for the past year the keyless remotes would only work if I'm about 2 feet away. I've had the batteries replaced in both remotes but the problem still exists (nothing changed).

    Any suggestions?

    Steve
  • seanmcdaidseanmcdaid Member Posts: 1
    i think i have the same problem. i have a laredo 94 and for some reason i cant drive my car. the security system goes off on me everytime i try to start it. this happened once before but i dont remember exactly what i did to fix it. i've been locking and unlocking doors, jumped it a few times, and try everything i could think of. all i have is a key i dont have the wireless key or anything like that. does anyone think they can help me out? replies would be appreciated
  • soccermansoccerman Member Posts: 8
    My JGC 2000 is all-time 4 WD. The rear axle seems to rumble/shudder when turning to right or left. The mechanic said that it sounds like its related to LSD so we have :mad: just replaced the rear differential case but the noise is still there. Nothing much noticable when going in a straight line. Please help - any suggestions welcome!
  • armyguy01armyguy01 Member Posts: 5
    Bad Viscious coupler
  • howie56howie56 Member Posts: 21
    I'm wondering if You have traction control on your Jeep ? I have a 2005 JGC w/traction control and it has gone out on me already and the vehical shudders when you turn right or left as the rear brakes are grabbing cause it thinks the vehical is sliding out of control. The garage have to replace the control unit in the steering coluum to fix the problem .. Not sure if it's your problem but I hope this helps . :shades:
  • hermi101594hermi101594 Member Posts: 1
    Lately when driving my 93 jeep cherokee - it seems to just stall for no reason. No noise - nothing. it's like the car is turned off and you just coast to a stop with no power steering. When I try to restart it just cranks over and over but doesn't start. No abnormal noise when trying to start - it just doesn't "start" just turns over. After sitting for 1-5 minutes - it usually starts. I typically drive it for no more than 10 minutes at a time. It usually stalls after driving for about 5 minutes.

    In a previous thread someone mentioned a PCM. What is it?

    thanks
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    What is it?

    Powertrain Control Module.

    tidester, host
Sign In or Register to comment.