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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    The Powertrain Control Module is one of the likely causes. It is mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment on the passenger side. You can get them at most auto parts stores rebuilt for around $250.00-$280.00 and they are fairly easy to install. Just remember they are a computer so keep your body grounded to avoid static just to be safe. The crankshaft position sensor is another suspect. Although cheaper (@$50.00) it is slightly more difficult to install due to it's placement under the car. In either case, the car usually runs great or dies with these parts, no in between!
  • kforcekforce Member Posts: 8
    My 2000 had the same problem. The Crankshaft position sensor shorted out. Unfortunately the short caused the 5 volt reference to ground damaging the PCM. The computer begins to overheat and shuts down the motor. When it cools it resets, clears all codes and allows the engine to start. You probably have to replace both the sensor and the computer. Also the Camshaft position sensor is the same sensor as the crankshaft sensor. They work in unison with each other. If it shorted you will have the same problem. I replaced both sensors and the computer. Runs better than it ever did.
  • soccermansoccerman Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for your response. I am not too clear on the details here but I'm hoping that you may be able to help further. Following your helpful reply the mechanic disconnected the front driveshaft (transfer case to front axle) and drove the Jeep. He said the rumbling stopped. So he now agrees that the rumbling was caused by either the viscous coupler or the front driveshaft, but I was wondering if when this driveshaft was connected to the viscous coupler that it might be the additional stress on the coupler that is causing it problems and creating the rumbling rather than the driveshaft itself?
    Also do you know which of these parts are serviceable - can I buy a replacement viscous coupler (is this the same as a transfer case coupler and does it sit inside the transfer case?) and are there any replacable parts on the front driveshaft - the mechanic tells me it has a coupling on either end. I live in a really bad place to try to get the parts so when we order I want to get it right.

    Thanks again.
  • dandgdandg Member Posts: 91
    the viscous coupler is a common problem with these at a certain milage and it is not "serviceable" it must be replaced but is not a hard thing to do,although it is expensive,part inside the transfer case.The T case does not have to be removed and the whole replacement can be done in less than 1hr.If I remember correctly they are around 700 from the dealer,I did find one after market from a rebuilder shop for something like 350 if I recall.
    Hope this helps
  • mountaingirl3mountaingirl3 Member Posts: 1
    I purched my 2005 Grand Cherokee used a year ago (I bought from a reputable dealership and did a carfax on the car) and enjoyed the car until it reached 38,000 miles. Then everythings started to go wrong. Electrical problems first, then fuel problems and battery problems. The car has died on me 3 times in the past 3 months and I have had it at the dealership 5 times since mid November for various unscheduled maintenance. First it was a fuel sending unit, then the battery died, then a new fuel cap and most recently I had all the fuel hoses and clamps replaced. To me, I have had way to many problems with this car. Has anyone else experienced these problems? Do you think Lemon laws could apply to this car?
  • soccermansoccerman Member Posts: 8
    Okay sounds like the route I should take. Thanks.
  • deratristarderatristar Member Posts: 14
    I just finished a long trip that I took in 4WD Full Time (I was in snow and slush for part of the trip). I got home and parked my lovely 2000 Jeep GC Laredo. This morning, I went to the store. While waiting at a light, I decided to put my Jeep back in 2WD, since I am home, with no snow.

    When turning at a light (A U-turn), suddenly, my Jeep didn't want to turn. I actually thought I had a flat (It felt like when you have a flat and try to turn). Pulled into a parking lot. Nope. No flat. I looked around, and couldn't see anything obvious.

    Pulled forward into a parking space and got lunch. Pulled out, and it didn't want to go in reverse. It did, but stopped almost like I was in a small trench or something. Forward works ok, so I headed home (a few blocks). Had to make another U-turn... same problem. Got through the turn, and made it home. Pulled into my parking space, and it doesn't want to turn, but did (This time, turning to the right).

    These problems only started right after shifting from 4WD to 2WD. BTW, mine is the Selec-Trac automatic transmission.

    Any ideas? Coincidence?
  • deratristarderatristar Member Posts: 14
    It appears that the shift from 4WD to 2WD did not complete, thus leaving me "in limbo", so-to-speak. Putting it back in 4WD, driving it a bit, then back to 2WD seems to have fixed it (I realize I still have a differential repair issue). I haven't driven it much since, just around my apartment complex a bit, but it seems to be working again.
  • mhjeepmhjeep Member Posts: 4
    I have a hose (small about 3.8" diameter) coming off what I think is the front differential of my jeep. It connected to the differential, but no longer connected to anything on the other end. #1 what is this hose/line? #2 To what is it supposed to be connected? #3 Does this disconnected hose present a safety or serious operating problem?
  • dan1166dan1166 Member Posts: 3
    Well, I am just in time again; 2500 miles over the warranty, my memory seat stopped working. Sometimes it does work, but most times it does not. Also, the headlights do not come on when the wipers are turned on. Are these problems related. I am thinking maybe a body control module. Does anyone have any experience with these memory seat failure? Please share your thoughts.
  • imiddendorfimiddendorf Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 JGC Laredo 4x4 and I am getting a loud noise when I put it in reverse any ideas? Im guessing its the timing belt, but I dont know exactly what it could be. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    This hose is the diff vent it goes from the diff to a mounting on the firewall just a vent has a small cap on the end mounted to firewall

    tuggajb
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    What engine and 4WD system do you have? As far as I know, none of the Jeep engines for that year had timing belts. Does the noise continue after you put it in reverse? Give as many details as you can.
  • brian211brian211 Member Posts: 69
    Brought my 2004 cherokee ltd in for a simple oil change and tire rotation today. Got car back at 5pm just as mechanics were heading out the door, my luck. The one working on my car said I had a problem with the automatic air pressure monitoring system. I had asked them to check it because it didn't seem accurate to me. He said they checked and didn't know why it was reading incorrectly. I had mentioned that I had gotten a spare tire sensor missing or bad message. He'd not been told and didn't look at that. Said might be a missing antennae. Ok. Bring back Monday. I take the car and put on headlights. Upon doing so the illumination on the inside guages goes dim. Asked the service advisor about it and he looked for an intensity setting which there wasn't. Remind them when I bring it back for the air system problem on Monday. Could they have done something while checking out the tire pressure system? What could cause the dimming of the guages upon turning headlights on.? Any possible answers? Thanks. :confuse:
  • amz1600amz1600 Member Posts: 5
    I also have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with no heat on the passengers side. I found a web site to contact to report the possible recall.
    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
    I am going to report my problem to and I am hoping enough people contact this website so that Chrysler will issue a recall.
  • paul108paul108 Member Posts: 1
    Since June 2006, my '95 JGC stalls at any time and any moment; Just dies; 3 mechanics 4 parts replaced: Crank Position Sensor, fuel rely switch, MAP Sensor and stater sensor; Car stalled last week, I hit the powertrain control modules - as suggested by 1 mechanic who could not duplicate the stall - and the car started; Happened again 1 minute later, now vehicle runs, but waiting for next stall at highway speed; I've seen threads about the PCM and want to replace; Here's my Q: Does it need to be programmed? Is it difficult to replace on my own? Does the jeep nation have possible other solutions? ideas?
  • loom1967loom1967 Member Posts: 8
    Same problem with my 2003 JGC Limited. Thanks for the site info, going to report my problem.
  • mass007mass007 Member Posts: 2
    hi there,
    did anybody find a solution to this problem?
    Yesterday -for the first time- the "check gages" sign lit up in my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and I have no clue what this implicates...
    Thanks so much to any help!!!
    M
  • mass007mass007 Member Posts: 2
    Yesterday -for the first time- the "check gages" sign lit up in my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and I have no clue what this implicates... :cry:
    Thanks so much in advance to any help!!!
    M
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    You can try unplugging and reattaching the three connectors to the PCM to make sure they are clean and tight. If that does not help you need to replace the PCM. I did this on my Jeep and it's about a 20 minute job and not difficult. The main thing to remember is that the part you are replacing is a computer and it is possible to damage it with static electricity. Use a wrist band like you would if working on a computer to keep yourself grounded. My rebuilt unit with 1 year warranty cost about $260. Good luck!
  • ladydi_87ladydi_87 Member Posts: 6
    When the outside temperature dips below about 25 degrees, my Jeep has an issue where it won't down shift. The engine temp needs to be at about 210 before the engine backs off and the RPM will finally dip from about 22k to 18K. No problems at all when the engine is warm. Just mainly in the morning when it's cold out. Any ideas? Have the 4.0L with 119K miles. --- Di
  • imiddendorfimiddendorf Member Posts: 4
    I have the inline 6 4.0L engine, Im not exactly sure what the 4wd system is called, but its not the quad drive, you manually can shift from 2 wheel to 4 part time, 4 full time and 4 lo. The noise is only when I put it in reverse and gets louder the longer I leave it in reverse. Once I put it in drive the noise is gone. Any ideas?
    Thanks for your help.
  • imiddendorfimiddendorf Member Posts: 4
    Oh and the noise is when Im in 2 wheel drive, and I have the tow package, if that helps. :D
  • watsonjeepwatsonjeep Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem starting my 97 grand cherokee. doesnt seem to be the battery or alternator because it will crank, but then immediately shut off. When i give it gas right after i crank it, it will stay on until i release the gas. I've been told it might be a clogged fuel filter, bad fuel injector, or maybe fuel pump. Any ideas on what it might be? and how difficult/expensive is it to replace any of the above parts?
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    Just something simple to check first, make sure your alarm system is turned off! When it's on it will allow vehicle to start but then shut it down.
  • dandgdandg Member Posts: 91
    I agree, its sure sounds like the alarm is cutting out the fuel to the injectors.Try locking and unlocking the driver door with the key and see if it starts and stays running
  • suzieesuziee Member Posts: 2
    My 2003 Grand Cherokee Passenger rear window is stuck mid point. I noticed a year after I bought it (used) that it would not come down when I tried to activate from the driver controls. No big deal as its usually just me in the car. Well my husbands son pushed the button from the back seat and it came down about 3 inchs and stopped, won't go up or down. Any suggestions without taking it to the dealer. I love my Jeep but my hubby says it nickling and dimeing us to death.
  • freedombabyfreedombaby Member Posts: 1
    Has anybody know why I do not have HEAT on the Passenger side vents.
  • blanksterblankster Member Posts: 29
    If you have the auto-climate control the blender doors have probably failed - See WJJEEPS.COM
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    A lot of recent vehicles will not shift into 4th (overdrive) until the tranmission reachs a certain operating temp. We used to have a '00 Grand Cherokee and I think it did that. We currently have the wife's '04 Envoy XL and my '00 Trooper. The Trooper does that every cool/cold day...I'm pretty sure the Envoy does that as well. So, with a 4 sp auto, behavior is like running in 3rd for the first couple of miles.
  • amz1600amz1600 Member Posts: 5
    I have the same thing wrong with my 2004 jeep grand cherokee. I have found a couple of forums that say that it will cost between $1000 and $2000 with maintenance. I am past my warrenty, so I contacted Chysler and they said I am out of luck and they won't fix it. So then I contacted this website, through the government, to try to get a recall. http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/ They haven't contacted me back yet, but I hope it will turn out to be a recal. I live in Minnesota so I can't defrost my passenger side of the windshield, so it is safety hazard.
  • rolljrollj Member Posts: 13
    You might want to try replacing the IAC motor (Idle Air Control Motor). On fuel injected vehicles the gas pedal acts more like an air pedal. When you depress the gas pedal you are opening the trottle body and turning the TPS sensor(Throttle Postioning Sensor). When you dont have the gas pedal depressed, a little electric motor usually on the Throttle body, opens up to still feed the motor air. If this motor is not working properly then no air gets to the motor, causing it to stall. The part is usually inexpensive and easy to replace. I would suggest instead of chasing down electrical problems, you start with this. It it doesn't fix the problem, return the IAC motor and get your money back.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    my son has a 1994 jeep grand cherokee 5.2, his first car. the other day he came in saying his jeep wouldnt start, and since he is a gear head i didnt contribute it to something dinky.
    it acts like it wants to start, like watsonjeep's problem, except his does not run no matter what. it cranks, starts to fire, then immediately returns to cranking. the odd thing aobut this though, is once its cranking, it wants to start exactly like normal, but cant. so the crank time is consistant, and within 1 sec it dies. if you hold the key down and let it crank, it repeats over ad over. i have tried it with my foot to the floor. it WILL NOT START AND RUN. ever since yesterday we have been trying and the same thing happens. we did check the alarm system, and turned the key in the door, no luck.
  • amilancamilanc Member Posts: 1
    I have the same issue. Mine is at the driver side. when I ran the diagnostics, it gave error code 54 54 (Left temperature door travel too large)

    Any clue how expensive repair this is ?

    THanks.
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    Treat it like a screwed up computer. Disconnect the battery, turn the lights on to drain any remaining juice in the system, and then hook it back up. Make sure your battery connections are spotless. This may not do it, but it worked for me once and it don't cost nothing but a few minutes of your time.
  • blanksterblankster Member Posts: 29
    You probably have a broken blender door.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    Thanks xscout, but weve already tried that.
    something somewhere has to be messed up. you dont suppose its the main computer?
  • tripledragonstripledragons Member Posts: 1
    My 99 gcl has no defrost or heat. It satrted on the passenger side the over the summer te drivers side went. I took it to a dealer and for 1500 the said they could fix it. Apparently the blend air door and the a/c temp sensor motors have gone bad. Each motor cost about 90 dollars. I took my dash apart and replaced the motors myself but I still have no heat!! I'm not sure what to do now. I have a 12 volt heater rigged up for the mean time. hopefully it doesnt get much colder
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    Black boxes are certainly not my area of expertise. But it seems as since you can restart over and over again before it shuts down that you have: Fuel pressure,spark, air and they are all coming together properly for at least a second. It just sounds like something (computer?)is cutting the spark to shut it down that quickly.
  • rolljrollj Member Posts: 13
    I have already posted this question before but I wanted to see if anyone else was having this problem as well. I have an 05 JGC Limited with a 5.7 hemi and during a mild or "regular" acceleration i am hearing a ticking from the front drivers side of the vehicle. This is most noticeable when accelerating next to a wall because the noise resonates off of it. I have had it in and out of the dealership several times for this problem. It sounds like an exhaust leak but the dealership has assured me that they have pressure checked the entire exhaust and there are no leaks. Can anyone with the hemi engine check this and let me know if there is does the same. Also if anyone has any information on this i would appreciate it if they could let me know.
  • howie56howie56 Member Posts: 21
    I do believe that the sound that your hearing is the air pump attached to the fender wall and at times it can get very loud as I had mine checked on my 04 JGC for the same noise and I also hear it on my Hemi but after the explenation from the last time I haven't bothered this time.
    Not sure if this is what your problem is but thought I'd give you my info.. Best of Luck. :shades:
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    i'm taking it to my mechanic on wednesday, well see what he finds.
  • chicagogal1chicagogal1 Member Posts: 2
    I don’t know if it’s the weather or if my car is about to die but it sounds like it’s on its last legs. I think it’s the shift from 3rd to 4th that is going goofy because when I get to about 40mph and press the gas pedal, the rpms will go up to 5k if I’m not watching. When I back off the gas and slow the rpms, eventually it will catch and I can then speed up. This happens after a cold night usually even if I give it 15 minutes to warm up in the morning. Also, when I’m idling at a stoplight I need to put the car in neutral in order to avoid a stall. Kind of weird but this has been happening more and more frequently.
  • rolljrollj Member Posts: 13
    I haven't heard of any air pump on these vehicles. I'm actually not sure what you mean by air pump, the only air pump that i've heard of is for emissions and those where only used in the late 80's and early 90's. The only explination i have been given is it's from the catalytic converters. I have actually heard the tick on several of the hemi JGC and im curious how DC can issue TSB's on very stupid complaints and not have addressed this issue. If you could can you let me know what air pump you are refering to.
    Thanks.
    P.S. a very good source of TSB's and all other information on all JGC is http://www.wkjeeps.com/.
  • sixstar08sixstar08 Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 2001 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 Sport with and Auto Trans. It's just when over 70K miles. I've just recently noticed that when driving at 50 or better it seems to jump between gears. When going 50mph it will jump from about 1500rpm to about 2100rpm. There is no change in modulation to the gas pedal and this is done on a flat road so there is no change in hill accent/decent. I first noticed the problem when the car was going between 60-70mph. The RPM's will jump up for a little bit then jump back down. It will continue to do this for a while. I'm not sure how long this would go on as my typical drives are not great in distance. It has been getting significantly colder and I am wondering if that could be part of the problem, but I fear that this isn't it. My inclination is that it might be: a sensor, something with the transmission, or throttle body (just putting it out there). Has anyone had a similar problem or knowledge of potential solutions to this problem?
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    does the car seem to buck a little when it does this, slow down?
  • kforcekforce Member Posts: 8
    Does your Jeep have an "overdrive" button? If so It sounds as if your Jeep is going in & out of overdrive. Try manually taking the trans in & out of overdrive to see if it duplicates the issue.
  • chicagogal1chicagogal1 Member Posts: 2
    Yes it does. I'll try it.
  • patdowerpatdower Member Posts: 11
    when i start my Jeep the oil pressure is a little lower than normal, as it warms the pressure drops, eventually to zero and the check guages light comes on. When I accelerate the check guages light shuts off and the pressure rises slightly, only a little bit! I have plenty of oil, and I had it changed 3000 miles ago. What is my Jeeps problem?
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    Assuming the engine continues to sound normal, I would try replacing the oil pressure sensor first. This is a fairly simple, inexpensive job. The check gauges light is just responding to the reading of the oil gauge.
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