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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • patdowerpatdower Member Posts: 11
    would the oil pressure sensor also be reffered to the oil pressure switch?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    your right sits above oil filter
  • georgedageorgeda Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2004 2wd Grand Cherokee. I need new front brake pads. Looking for suggestions as to best brand to use and any other advice that might be helpful.
  • patdowerpatdower Member Posts: 11
    The snow finally came to the northeast and I realized my jeep's all wheel drive is not working!!! Only rear wheel drive. Any ideas?
  • patdowerpatdower Member Posts: 11
    The climate control on the passender side of my 1999 jeep grand cherokee is not working...only blowing cold air. Any ideas?
  • mskane2umskane2u Member Posts: 1
    Anyone here know exactly how to take the 4wd off of a 2004 Jeep Cherokee? Everytime i try, it starts to drive funny, and it the steering wheel tightens up. last week i blew the trans case because of this and it is happening again.
  • reficulereficule Member Posts: 1
    I really don't know how to explain the issues I have been having, I have been to a mechanic had them look over it and got it back and its still doing this. So I am looking for some help to maybe better describe the issue to a mechanic or something.

    I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, it has the V8 5.something Liter engine. I had gotten it used a year and 2 months ago, and this is the first time I have really had any troubles with it. Before I had gotten I do know the previous owners had a new transmission place in the vehicle.

    The problems I am having now seem especially to happen when it gets really cold. I just don't know if its the weather that could be the cause of the issues (and there is something I could do sans a mechanic) or what. What happens is when I start it up, the jeep will run fine for a few seconds then pause like its going to stall out but keep running, so its like its this brief pause/break in the running, this happens a couple of times, and even sometimes happens (though very rarely) when I am driving. Also when I start it up my oil gauge shoots up to nearly the 80 mark, and tends to sit between 60 and 80 for a while. Also (and I usually let the jeep sit and warm up for a couple of minutes, at least 5 always). When I put it in reverse, the jeeps starts loosing power and often times enough to where it looks like it may turn off, also know and then when I put it in reverse it sounds like somehting is rattling inside just about. Though once I put it in drive the power seems to shoot back up and I can go for a bit, but once I slow down for the first curve , it starts loosing power again acting like its just going to loose enough power to shut off, but once I hit the gas it powers right back up.

    Then sometimes when I am driving, the jeep will jerk really hard almost like something kicked the jeep, and there would be like a thud sound. It would do this sometimes when I had stopped at like a stoplight or stopsign.

    I had just recently dropped it off at a mechanic's to have it looked at and I told them all that, at first they said it wasn't doing any of this for them when they started it up and stuff, and I told them to keep it overnight and they did , the next morning got a call saying it was done. I wasn't charged for what they did, and at first it seemed what they did do fixed it, but then this morning it seemed the problems were back with a vengence.

    I forgot to add, also no check engine lights come or anything, no warning lights up.
  • coldweathercoldweather Member Posts: 1
    I recently discovered that when I accelerate that dash vents act like I switched from dash to dash and floor. Then in a few seconds it returns to normal. I'm sure it's vacuum issue but not sure where to start. Did Chrisstromberg ever get his issue fixed.
    Thanks
  • danonddanond Member Posts: 8
    You most likely have the dreaded blend door failure. It's extremely expensive to repair, unfortunately. Usually above $1000. Check this site for more information: http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb_list.htm#HEATING

    To be sure:

    AZC self-diagnostic mode:

    1. To enter the self-diagnostic mode, depress the a/c and recirc buttons at the same time and hold. Rotate the left temperature control knob clockwise (CW) one detent.

    2. If you continue to keep the a/c and recirc buttons depressed, the AZC control module will perform a Segment Test of the Vacuum Fluorescent (VF) display. In the Segment Test you should see all of the display segments illuminate as long as both buttons are held. If a display segment fails to illuminate, the vacuum fluorescent display is faulty and the a/c heater control must be replaced.

    3. After viewing the Segment Test, release the A/C and Recirc buttons and the display will clear momentarily. If there are no fault codes, the “00” display value will remain in the VF window. Should there be any codes, each will be displayed for one second in ascending numerical sequence (note: no effort is made to display faults in the order they occurred). The left side set temperature display will be blanked and the right side set temperature display will indicate current and historical codes (8 historical max) presently active.

    Once all codes have been displayed, the system will repeat the fault code numbers. This will continue until the left side set temperature control is moved at least one detent position in either direction, by pressing both the A/C and Recirc buttons at the same time, or the ignition is turned off. Record all of the fault codes, then see the Current and Historical Fault Code charts below for the descriptions.

    Then check your codes against this list:

    http://www.wjjeeps.com/climate.htm
  • danonddanond Member Posts: 8
    Stop wasting money having the rotors cut. Replace your rotors AND your calipers next time with aftermarket parts. Rotors warp due to bad calipers.
  • danonddanond Member Posts: 8
    What does it say below your transfer case shifter - quadra-trac? Quadra-drive? No info = can't help.
  • danonddanond Member Posts: 8
    This is so rare it's hard to believe. Can you prove, without question, that on slippery surfaces, under hard acceleration (rear wheels spinning fast on snow, etc), that your front wheels don't spin at all?

    If they turn but take extra pedal, have the transfer case fluid changed at the stealership.
  • danonddanond Member Posts: 8
    Clean the throttle body or replace the idle-air control valve.
  • danonddanond Member Posts: 8
    Something aftermarket with a lifetime warranty. Don't pay too much. Stay away from the marketing BS pads, just get regular brake pads. There's no magic.
  • danonddanond Member Posts: 8
    If it's driver side only, it's cheaper. Doesn't require removing the dash. Passenger side is big $$$.
  • danonddanond Member Posts: 8
    Check your codes by using the site http://www.wjjeeps.com. Look into the heating section on how to check the computer for fault codes.
  • patdowerpatdower Member Posts: 11
    sat in iced up driveway two weeks ago, and did exactly that. hard acceleration on ice, no movement at all from drive wheel.
  • patdowerpatdower Member Posts: 11
    I followed your instructions, code #56 is the only code the diagnostic comes up with. Code #56 says "Right temperature door travel too large". Does that mean anything to you?
  • patdowerpatdower Member Posts: 11
    Jeep Grand Cherokee Self Diagnostic code #56 says:

    Right temperature door travel too large.

    What does this mean, how is it fixed?
  • patdowerpatdower Member Posts: 11
    My air bag warning light lights up and the bell sounds randomly and constantly. How do I fix this?
  • fantomas73fantomas73 Member Posts: 1
    CHRYSLER JEEP
    hi
    i want please the code and the price of one part from my jeep

    Commercial name: cherokee 2.4 2001
    Vehicle identification number : 1J4GLN8163W687707
    THE PART IS : PROPELLER SHAFT FRONT
  • patdowerpatdower Member Posts: 11
    call autozone, or any other part supplier. they will be able to help you.
  • amz1600amz1600 Member Posts: 5
    My heat went out on my passanger's side about one month ago. I live in Minnesota and we just got a huge snow storm. I can't defrost my passanger's side wind shield because it only blows out cold air. I filed a complaint at this government website that is in charge of recalls on vehicles http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/ because I am past my warrenty and this is a safety hazard. It seems to me that a lot of people have this problem. I called the government office this morning that is responsible for recalls on these car companies and they said that they have recieved 17 compaints on this exact thing. It could take one complaint or 1000. Please if you know anyone that has this problem, tell them to contact this website or call and make a complaint. http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
  • veronicaluvveronicaluv Member Posts: 1
    me too
  • dawn13dawn13 Member Posts: 2
    i am having trouble finding the fan relay switch where is it at?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    beleave it or not but it is behind front bumper on right side behind vacuem resevore gob to get at
  • imiddendorfimiddendorf Member Posts: 4
    I am having a loud noise when my truck is in reverse any ideas? It is only when Im shifted into reverse and is louder when its a cold start.

    Its a JGC Laredo 2001, with 4x4, non-quadra drive, 4.0L engine.

    I would greatly appreciate any ideas! :sick:
  • dawn13dawn13 Member Posts: 2
    Now I am having problems with a real bad squealing noise only on the front left wheel . Could you maybe know what that would be?
  • gmrumzgmrumz Member Posts: 1
    "crab walking" is a 20 year old problem,the viscous coupler is the problem. They are a sealed unit. I rebuild the units at a much lesser cost than new. I started with our personal unit and have many out in the field since and all are working as good as new and ours is still working fine without a re-accurance of the problem.
    GMR
  • charity3charity3 Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: 03 grand cherokee limited engine dies while idling and blows asd fuse. Sometimes dies while driving but doesn't blow fuse.
  • jmp54jmp54 Member Posts: 6
    Yeah I happen to think that it is. I have a 2004 Grand Cherokee Ltd with the 4.7 liter high output and the engine idles rough while in gear. The Jeep dealers answer is that that is normal for that engine but he had no answer when I asked why I hadn't been told that this would happen after 20,000 miles we put on it. I contacted Jeep, they wouldn't do much other that refer me to another dealer, I told the customer service rep at the 800 number that I know how to use a telephone book and could find another dealer, his reply was well is there anything else I can do for you I replied get me someone at corporate to talk to about this, he couldn't do that, I then told him I guess this will be the last Jeep I ever own (I had four previous all purhcased new like this one)his reply was that would be my choice. I emailed this to customer service and got the same answer. If you expect Jeep to stand behind this you will be waiting a long time. You take it to the dealer and you get told that they could not duplicate the problem.
    It's too late but you should have bought something else, I wish I had.
  • blanksterblankster Member Posts: 29
    I had my '04 LTD 4.7 flashed for a TSB that relates to idle quality(see WJJEEPS.COM). I did not have the HO. I would suggest adding some Techtron Fuel system cleaner and spray the throttle body valve with some cleaner they can get pretty dirty. You may have moisture in the tank so add some iso heat to the fuel. I believe your HO requires premium try switching brands. Take it out on the highway and run the SH*T out of it. My 4.7 would idle smooth after a nice highway run. The 4.7 is not as smooth at the 5.7 I have now.
  • jazzface78jazzface78 Member Posts: 1
    During the winter storm that passed through the New York this weekend, my windshield wipers completely stopped working. I thought they were frozen or that the ice had something to do with the problem. However, the problem continued throughout the weekend. Then, I was heading to the mechanic this afternoon and they started working again. The only thing I can attributwe this to is the weather, as it was warmer today (and drier) than this weekend. Maybe they thawed out? I didnt think this was the case since I removed all of the ice when they initially stopped working. So, I don't know what the deal is, but it sounds as if we have similar problems.
  • vsaviobvsaviob Member Posts: 1
    I've purchased the truck a month ago. Everything was fine until the last weekend when the vehicle refuses to shift out of the first gear, after being put in Drive. Works fine in second, if the lever is in second though.
    It's got only 40,000 mi on it. Has anyone else had the same problem ?
  • blanksterblankster Member Posts: 29
    Any check engine lights??? '02s may have 7yr powertrain warranty. You might want to look into it.
  • rmckinneyrmckinney Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 JGC Limited v8 HO and had the same problem. My jeep has 51k. I have the 8yr 80k mile drive train warranty and this was not covered. I was told that this was very common with the dual air/heat models. I had this fix by jeep at a cost of $680.00. They said the blend door on the passenger side had broken. They replaced it and the motor that controlls it. I ask if it wouldn't just break again and was told they had replaced that part with a better one. If this is true why wouldn't they have a recall on the defective part.
  • georgedageorgeda Member Posts: 7
    I have used this method when a customer service department can't - won't - help.
    I go to Google and find a link to the company web site. From there I find the company CEO and call the corporate headquarters and ask for him. You won't get to speak to him but they have assistants that step in and usually get the problem resolved.
    I just did this with my HMO because their pharmacy could not or would not get my prescription filled for over a month. I got it two days later and the pharmacy boss gave me her phone number so I could call her directly in the future.
  • joannwjoannw Member Posts: 2
    When I press on the brakes to stop (especially when going from a high speed) my jeep shimmies badly. The brakes were checked and found that they are in good shape. What would be the problem?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    rotors put on after market rotors and caplaters no more prob
    ifb you use jeep parts prob will return
  • kforcekforce Member Posts: 8
    Tug is correct! The rotors warp and shake your steering wheel when it gets bad. I changed out to a standard rotor and a nice set of "Satisfied" brand brake pads from my neighborhood auto parts store and have had no problems since. (60'000 miles)
  • joannwjoannw Member Posts: 2
    Are you sure its the rotors and not the steering dampner? Even though it's a 2 wheel drive, it does have a dampner.
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    A bad damper will not cause this problem, only not hide it as well. The problem is warped rotors. By visual inspection they and the pads will look fine even if warped. Have the rotors turned (although the problem will return after a while) or better yet replace them with aftermarket rotors. Do not go to the dealership for this work!
  • chrisstrombergchrisstromberg Member Posts: 3
    I did get the issue fixed. Turned out a vacuum line behind the dash had broken and it was causing my dash vents AND the cruise control to not work. A trip to the garage, and 20 bucks later, both were fixed. Thanks for asking.

    -Chris Stromberg
  • chrisstrombergchrisstromberg Member Posts: 3
    2004 JGC. all the doors close smoothly with just a nice little thud upon closing. my passenger door rattles when it closes. It sounds like metal on metal. I thought it was the door trim, because it is a little loose until I close it with the window down and my hand tightly securing the trim. It sounds like it's in the lock area, or at the edge of the door. I've had the whole trim off and I didn't notice anything visible rubbing or loose. Any ideas? It's REALLY annoying me. Shoot me an e-mail at chrisstromberg@gmail.com
  • wes56wes56 Member Posts: 2
    As stated my cooling fan wont run. Isn't it supposed to run when the AC is on? I cant get it to start at all. any suggestions?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    try to hot wire it if runs then not the fan maybe fuse or the body control mog
  • wes56wes56 Member Posts: 2
    fan works when hot wired, relay has been replaced, fan ran for 1 day after, the quit. The codes are for fan relay problems, but as said fan relay has been replaced and checked. I feel it may be my control module, but don't know how to check it. any suggestions?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    it is controler by 4 things
    1 eng temp
    2ambient temp from body controler
    3 vehical speed
    trans temp
    ac switch

    so if it dosent come on with ac prob pcm (power control mog)
  • cassinicassini Member Posts: 1
    I know the original message I am replying is a bit dated, but I have been having problems with my check engine light for my 2000 JGCL since November 2006. The light would go on when I go up hills, usually on highways just as I get into overdrive, and the Jeep would rattle as if not getting enough fuel. Sometimes the light would stay on for a day or two, sometimes it would blink and then go off. I took it 2x. First time, he changed spark plugs, took it for drive and still did the same thing. Then he suggested cleaning the fuel injectors. Within a week, the light came back on. It stayed on this time. Took it in again. Cylinder #1 misfire. He replaced it. Within a week, same thing. Friend hooked up code reader last week. Guess what? Cylinder #1 misfire. So, I'm thinking it's not the spark plug(s) that is causing the problem. Any ideas? Could something be shorting out the spark plug (is that a correct description, "shorting out"?).

    Cassini
  • rolljrollj Member Posts: 13
    Yes, there are other places for problems before the spark plugs with ignition systems. Moderns engines mostly use what is called direct coil over plug ignition. This uses individual ignition coils that sit directly over the spark plug and are controlled directly by the ECU. So if there is a problem with the coil then you will not get spark. Another form of ignition is coil over wire this uses individual ignition coils with short spark plug wires. As these plug wires get old they tend to break apart. If the insulation on the plug wire wears enough it could arc and ground out "short" with the engine before the plug. I believe the 4.0L I6 for that year uses direct coil over plug and the 4.7L V8 uses coil over wire. Hope this maybe gives you some new areas to check out. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system.htm , explains a little better.
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