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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • pacnwpacnw Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 gc 5.2 150,000 mls and the engine light comes on after driving for aprox 1hr but the jeep still runs ok. I do maintenance by the book but have never change o2 sensors since it passes smog test

    help
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    Code P1757 is "Governor pressure greater than 3 psi when requested to be 0 psi." I replaced that part just recently after I discovered I suddenly had no first gear. After much searching on the internet I concluded that the problem was either the governor pressure sensor or the governor pressure solenoid. If you have ever dropped the transmission pan and changed your fluid and filter you can do this job. Both parts stick downward into the pan and are visible after the filter has been removed. You have to remove the mounting body they are both attached to (I recall needing a torx screwdriver). To remove the pressure sensor from the body you will have to remove the attached gasket which comes off easy with a sharp gasket removal tool and can be reused. There is a clip hidden by the gasket you have to remove to get the pressure sensor off. Both off these parts run about $100 each and either can be the problem since they "talk" to one another, either one is not receiving correctly or the other is not sending correctly. I replaced both not wanting to have to tear everything back apart again if I guessed the wrong part. Entire job ended up costing me about $250 and half a day in the driveway, but the lowest estimate I got to have it done was $600+ with no guarantee in would not go higher.
  • jer1031jer1031 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 with the 5.9 and I noticed that my cv boots were getting pretty bad this summer and I was getting some clicking in the front when I turned sharp. Well now I have clicking all the time and my four wheel drive isn't working. Is this the cv joints? If so can I screw up anything else by driving it until its fixed? How hard of a project is it?
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    No struts involved, just shocks and coil springs. Sounds like you need new shocks. They are very easy to install.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    If you haven't found a solution to your fading body molding, let me know and I'll tell you what I did.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Have you solved your problem yet? Let me know and maybe I can help.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Yes, unfortunately, your going to need to replace the CV joints. You should be fine driving them until you replace them. Just don't wait too long. I'd replace them within a month. If you're mechanically inclined, it shouldn't be very hard for you to do yourself. I would at least go and buy the Haynes Repair Manual that covers your model Grand before you begin the replacement. It will walk you through the process step by step. If you have anymore questions let me know.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Have you solved your problem yet? Let me know and maybe I can help you out.
  • cherokeeprncescherokeeprnces Member Posts: 8
    The clicking when turning is a symptom of bad cv joints. Although replacing cv joints is a dirty job, its not too huge of a project. If you really have no idea what you are doing you may either want to invest in a Chilton jeep repair guide or just save yourself the hassle and take it somewhere and pay to have it done. Besides the repair guide you may be able to find directions on how to change out the bad cv's online. Good luck!!
  • pamarine01pamarine01 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 jeep grand cherokee....i wanna keep up with my maintence on the jeep, are there any grease points/if so, where can i find them?
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    You may need to remove the front wheels to access the upper balljoint grease fittings. If your GC is 4-wheel drive you will have a grease fitting on the slip joint collar of the front driveshaft. Also check for grease fittings on the steering linkage connections like the drag link and tie rod. Look at all other steering and suspension components while you're under there and lubricate any other joints you see that have grease fittings. If you have any more questions let me know. - dixiecrawler
  • jer1031jer1031 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you. Thats what I wanted to hear. I was hoping it wasn't my transfer case or something. Thanks for your help.
  • ellachellach Member Posts: 8
    Hi All
    Can anyone tell me how to remove my glove box on 2003 GCH.
  • ellachellach Member Posts: 8
    Hi all
    Can anyone give me any hints tips on replacing heater blend doors 2003 jgc
    Thank You
  • animal2animal2 Member Posts: 11
    the problem is in the rubber boot between the door and the frame the black ground wire is broken and needs to be spliced.. reconnected.. make it a little longer by splicing in a piece of supple wire the original wire is to stiff and subject to break.. fairly easy repair
  • animal2animal2 Member Posts: 11
    oil pressure guage working interminterly returns to normal after a couple of starts problem is mostly in the morning any help would be appreciated
  • voodoo_daddyvoodoo_daddy Member Posts: 10
    Obviously I'm not a mechanic, but I hate bringing my car in when it's a simple part that I can easily swap out myself. I had that recently happen with the oil sending unit and I paid almost $100 to have the guy take 3 minutes to change a part.

    So... I'm currently having a problem with my oil pressure. It's dropping drastically low after my car warms up (I'm in Minnesota). I've ensured that the oil isn't low or anything like that. So when I come to stop signs/lights I keep on foot on the brake and rev the engine a little to keep the oil pressure up.

    Are there some simple things that I can look for as the culprit or am I just going to have to bite the bullet and take it to a shop.

    Thanks for the help.
  • cherokeeprncescherokeeprnces Member Posts: 8
    Funny you should ask....the blend door broke on my 2004 Jeep GC and has just been fixed. Conveniently enough I had a bunch of electric issues caused by shorts in my wire hardness in the drivers door and I had to take it to the dealer to be fixed. I was considering trying to fix the blend door myself, however it involved taking the dash out and alot of hassle. I had mine fixed at the dealer. The door itself is kinda spendy but they didnt charge much for the labor and it was well worth the money I spent. Be forwarned that the blend doors are flimsy and break often, which I believe could be yet another one of Jeep's design flaws. Good luck with getting yours fixed!
  • cherokeeprncescherokeeprnces Member Posts: 8
    About a month ago I posted a message on this forum concerning some electric issues with my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Within a week and half all my power windows stopped working, my cruise control wouldnt engage, my interior lights wouldnt work, and the list went on and on. I checked the fuses and they were all good, I couldnt find the problem so I took it to the dealer. The service guy discovered that the wiring harness in the drivers door was bad and causing shorts thru out the electrical system. After talking to the service guys a while I learned that problems with faulty wiring harness is very common and had happened so much in Grand Cherokees that Jeep changed their design 2 years ago to correct the problem. While this sounds like Jeep was doing a good thing by changing the design to correct the problem, what they didn't do is issue a recall on the faulty wiring harnesses and jeep owners to continue to have shorts in their GC's electrical system and owners are forced to pay for these repairs, which can be expensive!
    I highly recommend that all Jeep owners who have had to have the wiring harnesses replaced because of electrical problems in their Jeep Grand Cherokees, contact Jeep headquarters concerning issuing a recall on the wiring harness with the design flaw so they can pay for the replacement of them, saving us the owners a huge repair bill. Maybe if we can get Jeep to issue the recall they will refund money paid to those of us who have already had to pay for these repairs once and will more than likely have to pay for the same repairs again!
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    The first thing you need to do is check your oil and make sure that it doesn't appear to be milky in color. Milky oil means water or coolant is in the oil. The two main causes of this are blown head gasket and the dreaded cracked head. If that is not the problem now, did the vehicle possibly have that problem before you got it? If it happened prior to you owning the vehicle, this could lead to the problem you're having. Although the head may have been repaired or replaced properly, not too many repair shops and mechanics go the extra mile to make sure that there is no damage in the bottom end. The only extra work that most do is add oil, drive the vehicle around, and then change the oil again to get rid of any water/coolant left in the engine. Sometimes that is good enough, other times you end up with a clogged oil pump screen. You will have great oil pressure in the 50-60psi range until the motor is good and warm. After that, if your not giving it gas, oil pressure drops and sets off the warning chime. You don't have to keep one foot on each pedal to keep it alive, it'll be fine at idle for occasional stop and go. It'll just annoy the crap out of you! I've had the same problem on my 2000 GC Laredo. Changed the oil pressure sending unit and it continued to do this. Long story short, drop the oil pan (this can be done without removing the motor - 4.0 I-6) and clean or replace the screen. While you've got access to it, replace the oil pump, it's tired! It's not too expensive. Anyway, sorry for the novel. I hope this helps and if you have anymore questions let me know. - dixiecrawler
  • voodoo_daddyvoodoo_daddy Member Posts: 10
    Thanks. After some brief searching online, it looks like that might be the best course of action. I'm going to start with that; replacing the filter and oil pump.

    Thanks. I'll let everyone know if that does the trick.
  • billyrockbillyrock Member Posts: 1
    i have a 96 grand cherokee with the v8 5.2 318 in it. i blew that engine and im now looking to replace it. i thought about putting the v8 5.9 360 engine in it but im not sure if it will work. would it be a simple swap or not and is it even worth it. i will be doing this myself with my neighbor so if its too complicated i will just stick with a stock engine.
  • ase4ase4 Member Posts: 1
    I've been dealing with overheating issues on my 00JGC since spring 07. After many trips to the repair shop where they were unable to get the engine to overheat while there. They just disassemble the engine and found a cracked head.
  • matt60matt60 Member Posts: 1
    What are some common problems with Cherokees with over 140,000 miles. The one I may buy is a 2000 sport. There is a new transfer case but the rest of the vehicle is factory.

    Also what can I look for to be sure these problems are not existing.

    Thanks
  • megan9753megan9753 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I was wondering if anyone else has had/heard of this problem. 3 days ago I was driving and after a few seconds as I came to a yield sign, my car locked and died. I turned off the car and restarted without any problem. Same thing happened the next day. Then yesterday I drove it (2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo) with no problems. Today I got in my car for work, it starts up just fine (and stays running) but the car wouldn't move. When I try to reverse the car it makes a horrible screeching sound. We were able to determine that the left rear wheel is not moving at all (which explains the bad noise and the fact that the car won't move). Does anyone know what I should do? I'm going to have to have it towed, but I'd like to have some idea as to the problem before I do since I'm sure whichever shop I have it taken to will be expensive. I have checked all of the fluids, the only one that looks a little strange is the transmission fluid which is pink, but it has little bubbles in it like water could be in there. I live in Utah where it has snowed constantly and my car sits outside, and from what I hear this could be normal condensation but it may also be part of the problem. Any ideas?
  • jmbjasillijmbjasilli Member Posts: 3
    smeagsOO

    Sorry, no fix yet. The battery, ignition switch and console unit with the A/C knobs have all been replaced, but still flickering. If you get a fix please post. I will do the same
  • mserot89sisamserot89sisa Member Posts: 8
    well i used armor all on it and it brought it back to life but i would also like to know what worked for you
  • 214jeep97214jeep97 Member Posts: 1
    I've done turn signal bulb changes on both the front and rear corners of my 97 and ( the jeeps are virtually the same ) .., neither one turned out to be that tough. I just went out and checked it again, it's been awhile. First you'll need a torx screw driver. Bend down and peek between the horizontal turn signal housing and the headlight unit and you'll see in the narrow slot a screw head. It's recessed a few inches so the screwdriver will need to be about 6 or 8 inches long and slim. Once this is out.gently pull on the signal unit .wiggle it left and right , jeep likes to use a push-in kind of locating/attaching unit in combo with a screw here and there. you don't need to pull the grill as another fellow mentioned. be patient it'll happen.
  • raider1245raider1245 Member Posts: 1
    My sons have an '00 and '01 GC's. Changed the blend doors in both just a few months ago. The '00 is fine but the '01's in heat mode all the time no matter what the controls are set on. This occured several weeks after the repair.
    Any ideas about the cause? I would rather not tear the dash out again. He does not live at home and I wanted to get a little input before he brings it to me. Kind of like "no heat =broke blend doors" Thanks, Steve
  • steelersfan1steelersfan1 Member Posts: 2
    I am having problems with my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee with electrical totally shutting down. I sometimes have to retry the ignition key several times before the electrical system returns back to normal. The jeep has been to the dealership twice in last week. So far I have been told the battery, the computer, the alternator, the starter have all checked okay
  • cherokeeprncescherokeeprnces Member Posts: 8
    Have them check the wiring harness in the drivers door. There was a design flaw and yours would be among the CG years that if would affect. Because of the flaw in the basic design of it, it is known to short out and cause all sorts of electrical probs and unless they panel is removed from the drivers door they will never find it.
    Good luck!
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    The fading was bad when I bought the 2000 Grand Cherokee. Armor-All would only last for about a week, so I decided to remove all of the body cladding, including the front and rear bumpers, and spray them. I used a new paint that is made specifically for plastics called Fusion by Dupli-Color that I bought at Wal-Mart. If you use a regular spray enamel it won't last b/c it is not flexible. Fusion is and it is supposed to bond to plastics on the molecular level. I did this about 2 yrs ago and is still holding strong. You will get the occasional chip in it by flying rocks and road debris, but it is easy to touch up. The only problem that I have had is that, over time, the extremely hot Alabama sun has caused the shine to fade. It did take 2 yrs, though, for this to happen so I have been very pleased with the overall abuse that this has taken! Right now I'm doing an engine swap in the Grand, so I may go ahead and remove the cladding and recoat it while the rest of the truck is torn down. After it cures (7 days) I'm going to try and find a way to protect the coating so that it will keep its shine and last even longer. If you decide that this is something you want to do, let me know if you have any questions.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    It'll work but you may also need to get the computer from a '98 Grand Limited that has/had the 5.9L 360. I'm sure there were some program differences between your 318 equipped model and that of the larger motor. The best (and easiest) way to make this happen would be to buy an entire 360 equipped Grand for a donor truck. Look for one that is wrecked, but has little or no front end damage. That way you could swap the motor and tranny and know that they would work together. If you find one that is hit hard in the rear, check to make sure that the rear driveshaft wasn't shoved through the tranny if you want to use it as well.
  • jmbjasillijmbjasilli Member Posts: 3
    Dealer has replaced the headlight switch and that seems to have done the trick. We have had it back for a week now and the lights haven't flickered.
  • kforcekforce Member Posts: 8
    Is your Jeep A 4.7 litre? Does it only shut down when the engine gets to full temp? Do the gauges all go to ZERO during the error? Does the computer NOT register any error codes after the error resolves itself? Does the engine still turn over?
  • sexyleo88sexyleo88 Member Posts: 1
    can anyone help me has anyone experienced oil leak problems with a 2000 grand cheorkee laredo
  • markhoot1markhoot1 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 6 cylinder GC. It has has a rear whine my mechanic advises is the rear pinion bearings. He said they all do this, and the only fix is an expensive bearing replacement. It has 100,000 miles on it, and has been noisy since 75,000. My mechanic has seen these Jeeps go for years being noisy with no other problem.

    Is there any additives that people have used in the rear to quiet this down? I don't want to spend big $$$$ on a bearing fix as I would probably just sell it instead.

    Thanks!

    Mark
  • aerosurgenaerosurgen Member Posts: 1
    Hello all
    I have a 99 jeep grand cherokee that has recently developed this squeal only above 15 mph. The squeal doesn't change when turning left or right , no change when shifting to neutral (coasting), no change in 4 wheel drive, the belt is good, new brakes and rotors, when slowing down at 15 mph the squeal stops. Any Suggestions

    Also The sound appears to be in the front right side of the vehicle
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    How much is leaking and where? By where, I mean front, middle, or rear and driver or passenger side of the engine compartment.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Does it only whine once you get up to speed, or even at low speed? There aren't any additives that will actually fix this, whether they claim to or not. If it only occurs once you get up to highway speed, don't worry about it. It'll be more annoying than anything and will probably last for thousands of more miles. If it whines at low speeds, it could be pretty far gone, but that's not all that common. Let me know if you have more questions.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Even though your brakes are new, check them and see if there is any abnormal wear on the noisy side to make sure the caliper isn't sticking. If everything is well there, it's probably either a bad axle bearing or bad cv/u-joint. My guess is the axle bearing. Let me know if you have any more questions.
  • markhoot1markhoot1 Member Posts: 10
    I can hear it from about 35-40 MPH on. More so under load, and if you get off the gas, it decreases. Faster speed - more noise.

    Would synthetic fluid help quiet it down? I hate noise! Hence, my last Jeep. I want something less problematic. I'm going to drive it into the ground, and I am looking to keep it going for as long as possible. One less car payment!

    Thanks.

    Mark
  • leehwatersleehwaters Member Posts: 1
    This is the trird time to have resistors replaced. 2005 Jeep Grand cherokee lorado.
    Works only on high at any temp setting. Is it time to look elswhere.
  • tobytrouttobytrout Member Posts: 1
    How do you change the fluid in the differential of a 94 Laredo??? The cover plate is solid so how would I fill it up if I were to remove it?? Where is the fill hole??
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    I have a newer 07 GC Laredo with X package and am wondering if any out there have figured out how to keep the radio in AUX mode.

    The audio system is a base single CD w/Bostons Acoustics amp adder. This REF model radio has AM/FM stereo, single-disc CD player w/bass, treble, balance, and fade control through on-screen menu -AND- front mount auxiliary audio input jack. I did not want Sirius since I have had XM for many years and own the Delphi portable XM that I dash mounted. In our 01 & 04 cars we used a cassette deck adapter to direct feed audio from the XM unit and the car audio always stays in cassette play when you turn it off/on. However this Jeep radio goes back to FM radio mode upon restarting the Jeep when you turn off the Jeep with the radio in AUX mode (the XM unit powers off/on automatically when is senses a loss of 12VDC power, 4 years old and perhaps "smarter" then the newer Jeep radio?).

    Anyone with a 07 or 08 model feeding the AUX with XM or even a MP3 player ie ipod figure out how to keep this Jeep radio in AUX mode?
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    There should be either a steel plug threaded into the top half of the cover or a rubber plug pushed into the upper half of the diff. cover.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Synthetics might help a little, but I wouldn't bet on it completely going away. My 2000 JGC has done this at highway speeds since I bought it in '05. When I let off the gas it stops, but while I'm on the gas it whines. I'm not worried about it, though, b/c it should last for a long time. When it's getting ready to go on you, you'll know. Don't get rid of it, do what I do, turn up the radio!
  • tommyluv78tommyluv78 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 4.0 When i am driving it sometimes it gets to "stuttering" kinda like the transmission is slipping. I had a tech look my trans over he said that it looked fine to him. Another guy told me it could be my feul filter. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem adn if so what was the remedy
  • thiswjroxthiswjrox Member Posts: 1
    Three things to check/consider. First, simply check your fluid levels. It's amazing how many folks don't do this. Grab a Hayes manual and follow the directions. I'd stick with the Mopar fluids--no reason to go to synthetic. Second, consider that it may not be the diff's but the bearings. At 116k miles I replaced the rear axle bearings and front hub assemblies/bearings at the same time. That made my whine go away for about 10k miles. When the whine came back I replaced the front and rear axleshafts/driveshafts with the recommended torsional damper versions (google for part #'s). The last was the most expensive fix--about $1200 total just for parts. It's been 20k miles now and the whine has stayed away.
  • mammamamma Member Posts: 5
    I would have all my sensors and my computer checked. My started like that for the last two years, mostly at high elevations. I had to take it in these last weeks because it would stall intermittently. Turns out I had a universal (which is not so) 02 sensor put it. It was sparking and shorting and fried my computer. Another solution: After spending over $1200 and having same problem I stumbled across a forum where an airline mechanic had the same problem. He turned the screws out a couple turns on the computer and problem solved. I don't know if they'll let me post the site but it is: forums.cnet.com Type in stalling and you'll find the vein.
    Good luck
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