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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • c_farooqc_farooq Member Posts: 20
    Hi
    I am looking for some advise, i have a Jeep Grand Cherokee X reg 4l Petrol. the problem is that when ever i move off from a stationary position the rear wheels make a grindiing noise and then it make a screatching noise. Someone told me it may be the Diff.

    Does anyone know what the problem may be?
  • smokebeesmokebee Member Posts: 30
    If you have driven the vehicle without this noise or it stops after you get in motion the problem could very well be the brakes---something may have fallen out of place due to wear. Do the brakes work properly?. A differential(and or bearing) problem will be constant and noise should increase with higher speeds. Raise the rear end off the ground and have someone crank and place the vehicle in gear while you listen. This might help pinpointing the noise source.Good luck--S Swann
  • cbfulpcbfulp Member Posts: 2
    While driving down the road, I felt my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo I-6 skip, but then it seemed to run O.K. The next day I went to leave and the check engine light came on. Put the code checker on it and it said Cylinder #1 misfire. Replaced the spark plug boot and the spark plug for cylinder 1, but still skips. The next thing would be the ignition coil rail, don't you think? Seems right to me, but since it costs $140 wanted to see what everyone else thinks.
  • 5213252132 Member Posts: 62
    I would first check if the spark plug fires. You can buy universal plug wires at autozone and connect one of them to the ignition coil for the #1 cylinder (remove the boot first), then connect the other end to the spark plug. With the spark plug out of the cylinder, hold the plug by the wire boot (don't put your finger onto any part of the plug!!!) and have someone crank the engine. You should see spark, if you don't, you have a defective coil. By the way, I had a 1990 Cherokee that had a defective coil, it was very hard to start it in cold, wet mornings. Off course, it had a different ignition system. Hope this helps. :)
  • cbfulpcbfulp Member Posts: 2
    Update...Replaced coil pack and spark plug, no change. Bit the bullet and took it to the Jeep dealer. Got lucky (depends on what you call lucky) and found the camshaft lobe on #1 cylinder worn down (only 36000 miles!). Getting new camshaft and rockers under the powertrain warranty. Try it again and see. Funny thing, I have a 1990 Mitsubishi Mighty Max that has broken down once in 18 years, and have owned Jeep for 6 months and 2nd time in shop.
  • clipkarnclipkarn Member Posts: 20
    I'm about to do this. Have the brand new units. My only question is, does anybody know of a gotcha' that isn't obvious? Looks almost too staight forward. I'd appreciate any advice or experience.

    Cheers --- Clip
  • gelo1gelo1 Member Posts: 2
    Hi! I from Russia (g. Kirov).
    Has bought Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 2000ã. 4,7ë. a box the automatic device.
    We in city do not have service on these machines.
    At me a problem with a back suspension bracket + with a back reducer.
    Very much you I ask give the reference to a site where is detailed instructions and step by step diagrams for all workshop procedures of repair of these units in figures or photos with the description of work.
    If you have opportunity I shall be very grateful.
    Yours faithfully to you Oleg. e-mail: GELO2006@inbox.ru
    Excuse for bad English.
    (Çäðàâñòâóéòå! ß èç Ðîññèè (g. Kirov).
    Êóïèë Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 2000ã. 4,7ë. êîðîáêà àâòîìàò.
    Ó íàñ â ãîðîäå íåò ñåðâèñà ïî ýòèì ìàøèíàì.
    Ó ìåíÿ ïðîáëåìà ñ çàäíåé ïîäâåñêîé + ñ çàäíèì ðåäóêòîðîì.
    Î÷åíü âàñ ïðîøó äàéòå ññûëêó íà ñàéò ãäå åñòü ïîäðîáíîå ïîøàãîâîå îïèñàíèå ðåìîíòà ýòèõ óçëîâ â ðèñóíêàõ èëè ôîòîãðàôèÿõ ñ îïèñàíèåì ðàáîòû.
    Åñëè ó âàñ åñòü âîçìîæíîñòü ÿ áóäó î÷åíü áëàãîäàðåí.
    Ñ óâàæåíèåì ê Âàì Oleg. Ñâîé e-mail: GELO2006@inbox.ru
    Èçâèíèòå çà ïëîõîé àíãëèéñêèé.)
  • slownlowslownlow Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Grand Cherokee with a 4.7, and I was wondering if anyone knows a company that will reprogram my PCM to get rid of the rev limiter, and maybe get a little better fuel economy? More power is optional, I'm not really disappointed in my jeeps power. I just topped it out at 110 on the freeway in 4th gear at 3500 rpm and was pissed. So I'm looking for any help to turn my jeep into into a truck that actually runs like it has a V8 and not like a 4 cylinder!
  • cripldguy28cripldguy28 Member Posts: 1
    on my 2000 grand cherokee limited both rear doors are locked shut, but before they were locked shut the handles stopped working anybody else ever have this problem? if so how did u fix it?
  • jethro413jethro413 Member Posts: 1
    Mark,
    My 05 GC with 40K miles. has the same alarm showing on a 65 degree day on dry pavement. Perhaps there is brake dust on something, or worn pads ? Please post what you find out.

    Steve
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    Is it the inside handles that are not working? If so, the child safety latches are probably turned on. There is a lever on each of the rear doors under the latch (the door has to be open to see it) with a sticker telling which way is on or off. Make sure they are in the off position.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    I believe your transmission is actually the 42RE, not the 45RFE. Just wanted to help you get that straight, because they will not use the same sensors and parts.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    $2700 is too much for that vehicle. If you really want it, offer $1500 because your going to have to start putting money into that engine soon, especially if it's the 318ci V-8 (5.2 liter).
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    has a tag on trans
    but more than likley it is the 45rfe they used them on the 2000 jgc
  • paulmikpaulmik Member Posts: 4
    I changed the battery in my Grand Cherokee and to keep the clock on time and other things from happening, I connected another battery to the battery leads when I removed the old battery. Installation seemed to go perfectly, but when I drove the vehicle I had two problems:
    1) Cruise Control light appears on dash when I press the on button, but it will not engage.
    2) Mode control (recirculation, floor, floor/vent, vent, defrost, etc.) does not work. All heating or air conditioning comes out of the windshield defrost louver.

    I checked the fuses in the cab and under the hood, all tested OK.

    Could it be the vacuum line?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    what engine you got
  • paulmikpaulmik Member Posts: 4
    4.0 liter, inline 6
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    is poss that you pulled the vac hose off the resavor tank thst is behind the bumper on the side that the battery is on
    looks as if hose runes between the battery ans fender would check that area
  • paulmikpaulmik Member Posts: 4
    That was it!!! Thank you!!! On my engine, the vacuum line is actually on the left side of the engine compartment (batt is on the right front) but after some searching/tracing lines - spotted the culprit – hose off of the vac source.

    I really appreciate the help.

    Paul
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    thanks for sending a replay

    tuggajb
  • howie56howie56 Member Posts: 21
    2 weeks ago I was toolin' down the highway when all of a sudden the engine started to run very rough and the check engine light came on . Pull onto the first off ramp and had my 05 Grand Cherokee W/ 28000 miles on it towed into the dealer. At first thet thought it was the coil on #6 cylinder as there was no spark but after replacing the coil and the fuel pump (pressure was 10# low) tried it again and the same problem . Pulled the valve cover off over # 6 and found the problem - - the spring on the valve had broken and the keepers were missing and the valve had fallen into the #6 cylinder and had been shoved back up at a rapid rate seeing as I was at highway speeds. They are now trying to rebuild the engine as there aren't any new replacement engines available. We'll see how this goes and will keep all in the loop. Have a geat week . Howie :shades:
  • cesarhernacesarherna Member Posts: 11
    Hi,
    One moth ago I had a problem with the transmission on my 2000 jgc laredo 4x4, I was trying to troubleshoot the problem but that is not easy, I took the car to AAMCO Transmission center and they did a free diagnostic on the trasn, and took the decision to change it. I order a used transmission on the internet, 45k miles on it + 6 months warranty, $850.00 not bad, now is back to the road.
    The dealers have a special tool to diagnostic transmission problems, that is the only easy way, good luck.
  • smsm08smsm08 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 jeep cherokee laredo. for about the last 2 weeks the alarm (panic) keeps going off at the most random times. it has gone off just sitting in the driveway and also going down the highway. i had a mechanic look at it and when we got there, the answer was pretty much that there was nothing that he could see. i believe him but i also know that when we got the jeep back to the house, it started doing it again. does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? i took the batteries out of the remote to see if that might have been the problem but it didn't help it. (what it appears to be doing is just keep locking itself.) i have checked the remote and it doesn't seem to be sticking.....please let me know if you have any ideas.
    thanks
  • dcgrafixdcgrafix Member Posts: 4
    Here's a tip I learned from my Nissan Altima that was doing the same thing. Replace the batteries in all of the remotes' to the vehicle and then disconnect the car battery for about 10 minutes to reset the computer.
  • dcgrafixdcgrafix Member Posts: 4
    Hey there, this is a repost of my message from back in December. I'm still having the problem and it has spread to the other doors. It's a very pronounced high-pitched squeek upon locking and now the tailgate is making a low-pitched sound when unlocking.

    Greetings, I'm having an issue with my Grand Cherokee's door locks. They are making an awful squeeking sound when locking. They seem to be freezing up. I tried to access the locks to grease them, but gave up when it appeared that I would have to destroy the door panels to get there. My question is whether it is a mechanical or an electrical issue? The car is parked outside in the elements year round if that helps. It's getting more and more difficult getting into the car by either key or remote. It's like the locks are sticking.
  • dixiedarveldixiedarvel Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.2 litre 4wd. The vehicle sat for over a year with no battery in it. Well I decided to redo the motor and get it running again. After refreshing the motor we hooked everything back up and now the headlights are flashing and the security light is flashing on the dash. I believe that the ECM forgot what to do because the engine will start and immediately die. Is there a way to reset the ECM manually without a hand held scanner or do I have to get the ECM flashed?
  • jeepmejeepme Member Posts: 2
    Man, I hope someonf can help me! My '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee stalls periodically when cold. I'll back it out of the driveway...snd it dies. Sometimes it'll start right up...sometimes not. What's up?! I've taken it to two respected shops around town and they can't find a thing wrong with it, AND, it won't even stall for them?! HELP!!
  • jimcoykjimcoyk Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/4.7 V8 w/ 100,000 miles. White steam coming out of the exhaust, and losing coolant (no leaks). It runs a little rough when first started. I suspect a blown head gasket. What else could it be? Also, has this happened to anyone else? Thanks for ideas.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    The 45RFE transmission was only used behind the V-8 engine in the WJ ('99-'04).
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Unfortunately, you're right. Besides a blown head gasket, the only other thing it could be is a cracked head. I'm sure you know this already, but, do not drive it like that to prevent any further engine damage! Make sure that whoever is doing the repairs for you doesn't just replace the head gaskets, but also has the heads magnafluxed and pressure tested to make sure they aren't cracked.
  • project0615project0615 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1997 jeep grand cheroke, and just recently it violently shakes when it gets close to 50mph, it seems to be fine when going slower....my front passenger tire has excessive wear on the outside tread, i don't know if that is a sign of the problem. any ideas?
  • smokebeesmokebee Member Posts: 30
    Check your owners manual under the section covering "child door lock" This may be the problem
  • troll157troll157 Member Posts: 17
    Bought a 1994 Cherokee Sport, 4.0 engine REALLY shot.
    Found 1998 4.0, (complete), is the block and head gonna bolt-up under all the 1994 components?
  • bgash219bgash219 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 GCL 6cy 4 liter. I recently had to disconnect the battery and this is where the problem started. After reconnecting the battery the car turns on but refuses to stay running. Also my gauge cluster is not working at all. And the overhead console lights work, but the display is completely out. I know it isnt the fuel pump because I can hear it prime, and for the 3 or so seconds the car turns on for I can rev the engine up as much as i like. I have a few thoughts on this...Im just looking for some feedback from those who have had similar problems.

    1. It could be an oxygen sensor, throttle control sensor, or some other kind of sensor.

    2. It could be the battery (unlikely seeing as it turns on well, and the battery is less then a year old)

    3. It could be the PCM (powertrain control module)

    any thoughts on this would be helpful. I dont want to pay thousands to fix a 40 dollar problem.
  • wolver1ne5167wolver1ne5167 Member Posts: 3
    :shades: WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!
    I bought my 5.9 (we call it THE BEAST) w/55k and the only probs. I had were anti-sway bar links both front axles (easy replacements) and the fact it didn't have its original front seats or radio... until the electric fan stopped working 0ne day ( I discovered the temp sensors switches in the radiator hoses were the culprits...$100 ea.) an the beast overheated one too many times...(even though I 've made a manual switch for it) Now I'm trying to figure out if the knock that's developed is a leak in the manifold or something worse...(knock on wood!) Dispite all that...I STILL LOVE MY BEAST! ;)
  • troll157troll157 Member Posts: 17
    Scary thought.....
    So, why did you disconnect the battery? Seems like, (more than once), I've opened the 12v. circuit to do some maintenance, installed a battery, dropped it on some wire loom disconnecting, (shearing or breaking), a connector somewhere, left fuses out, etc. The most recent situation I recall - I missed a wire when I installed the starter-motor. Retrace your steps.
  • shabrekashabreka Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee, when I first got the car, there were no problems with it. but 2 or 3 weeks into having it, my check engine light came on. what could be the problem. its been on for like 3 months, nothing wrong with the car to me, besides the fact that it burns gas pretty quickly. :mad:
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    take to auto zone they can read the engine codes and tell you what computer has stored
    also a loose gas cap can cause the check engine light
  • voodoo_daddyvoodoo_daddy Member Posts: 10
    As stated in previous threads; I'm far from being a mechanic. Not even really at the level of being a back yard mechanic ...just like to save money.

    So I've removed all the old exhaust; catalytic converter, muffler, and exhaust pipe. Then installed the catalytic converter and muffler, however I can't for the life of me coax that exhaust pipe up around what I believe is a sway bar. Do I need to remove the sway bar? If so, I'll have to take it in somewhere. I tried and that torx nut and bolt is rusted on there solid.

    Any advice ...other than "take it in" :)

    Thanks in advance.
  • clipkarnclipkarn Member Posts: 20
    On my 97, the pipe fits pretty close to everything but it went in without taking anything apart. It goes over the stabalizer. I think I had to jack the body a bit to thread (wiggle) the pipe into place. Then it's all about fooling with exact angle of the big bend and the fore and aft adjustment using the muffler collar. A bit like wrestling a snake, but that's what makes do-it-yourself fun(?). Good hunting.---Clip
  • voodoo_daddyvoodoo_daddy Member Posts: 10
    Did you take off the right rear tire? I just found something online that was very limited in the details, but I think that jacking it up like you say and then taking off the right rear tire will give me more room to work it.
  • bklaesbklaes Member Posts: 1
    I really need help with this one ive got an 04 GCL 6 cyl 4.0 ok here we go one time you can start car and it will idle 600 rpm and run great you can shut it down and restart and it will idle at 2000 to 2400 rpm for about 20 to 30 seconds then drop down to 600 rpm and run fine. it doesn't matter if motor is cold or warned up it might do it at cold start in morning it might not. sometimes you can start it up and it will run and idle great all day and then boom idles at 2000 rpm for about 20 30 sec and drop down too 600 I need help so what do you think!!!!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    unplug the tps and replug possably has dirty contacks that could be the cause of up and down idle
  • n0otron0otro Member Posts: 12
    My wife drives a 1996 JGC. we bought it used at 80k miles and it's been problem after problem.

    Currently the headlights don't turn on. The high beams work fine, but there are no regular headlights so she can't drive the car at night. Also, and I'm not sure if this is related, but sometimes when she's driving the locks will start going haywire and just lock/unlock repeatedly for a minute or two.

    Should I replace the switch? What else could it be?
  • crsher2002crsher2002 Member Posts: 21
    After a recent trans service and sched svc by the dealer, there is now a distinct odor, either fuel or trans fluid, that comes in via fresh air intake. Two dealers claim they have checked it six ways to Sunday, but cannot find anything. I'm not crazy, and the odor is there. Numerous passengers have noticed it also. Only noticable when idling. This has been going on for months, so if something spilled, should have burned off by now, no?

    I need help with some out of the box thinking. Anyone ever had any problems with this? Does it hot or cold.

    Thanks,
  • n0otron0otro Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for the tip, I figured it out a few months ago and it was exactly what the problem is. No problems with the warning lights since I changed the unit. I think I paid ~$45 for the unit and saved a couple hundred in labor from the mechanic.
  • kkelley2007kkelley2007 Member Posts: 9
    Does it smell like vinegar?
  • taffy3taffy3 Member Posts: 26
    Hi fellow sufferers. Following a change of right front CV joint, I have an oil leak that runs down the inside of the tyre.I didn't notice an oil seal when I withdrew the drive shaft nor was there a replacement in the kit. Any ideas how to stop it, I guess it's coming from the front diff.

    Ta
  • taffy3taffy3 Member Posts: 26
    Forgot to say it's a '98 GCL.
  • crsher2002crsher2002 Member Posts: 21
    No it doesn't. Interesting question, why?
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