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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Can anyone give me an estimate on the weight of an empty fuel tank?

    I have a 97 JGC with 4.0L I6. The engine idles rough. Fuel pressure test is out of spec. Replacing fuel pump requires removing fuel tank.

    Thanks in advance.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    The weight will be something in the order of 50 pounds.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • searcherrrsearcherrr Member Posts: 1
    1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport Utility SE 4D 4x4 6cyl
    I went with my Dad today to look at one of these to buy for the sole purpose of a "dog walk" vehicle. For a mere $3000 he could have a 4x4 to go in the spillway with. Anyway, I basically wanted to get some comments from people on what the weak points are and/or what something could be from my descriptions.

    [*]It has 140k miles on it.
    [*]Its automatic with the 4x4L and H drive.
    [*]The front windows are roll up manuals and the rears are electric which is strange to me.
    [*]The gas and speedo gauges seem to intermittently work. Cause?
    [*]Steering it feels like steering a boat. The response is pretty late. Is this typical/normal? Just alignment? Steering wheel? Just new struts/shocks?
    [*]Does it normally shift harsh in 2W or 4W drive? I have never driven one like this before so I don't know, but it seemed abnormally harsh to me from other cars/suv's I've driven.
    [*]What does "PART TIME" mean when the 4W drive is engaged? Shows up on the dash.
    [*]What is involved in fixing the Oil Leak if its the rear main seal? What are typical leak points for this vehicle? What other gaskets or whatevers would need to be bought and replaced during this repair if its the rear main?
    [*]Whats the tire pressure supposed to be? Why'd it seem like the rear tires (on concrete) were making a lot of noise when going slow turning in parking lots?
    [*]A/C seemed barely cool enough.
    [*]BIG TIME.... BIG TIME.... OIL LEAK all over the bottom? Typical? Rear main seal? Oil pan? Whats do most of you see?
    [*]Brakes seem to respond late, but I'd imagine seeing as the brake fluid looks like muddy water its never been flushed and probably needs new pads/rotors.
    [*]Probably leave the transmission alone right? Probably never been flushed and would lose it if I flush the fluid? Does this thing have a special fluid setup in the back and front since its 4 wheel?

    For the problems mentioned assuming those are "all" and knowing this will not be a vehicle driven anywhere else, but the spillway for walks with the dog would this be a reasonable investment?

    Thanks so much !
  • dawn16dawn16 Member Posts: 4
    I just bought this 2000 grand cherokee laredo, havent' been able to drive it.thought the dealer was on the up and up.. guess not..Have replaced the coolant fan relay, thermostat and it is still over heating with in a few seconds. even in idle. it immediatly goes to hot.. after running it a few minutes the overfull fills up, after shutting it off it goes down as fast as it came up, The light that looks like a camera comes up(check,engine,emissions,etc)
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    sounds as if you have bad head gasket
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    With engine cold and under normal circumstances, at idle it should take a couple of minutes for the engine coolant to warm up.

    A suggestion to consider: Drive or tow it to a radiator shop and ask them to pressure check the coolant system and check the engine coolant temperature sensor. The results should point you in the right direction.

    Expect to pay for their time to look at it. Ask about the fee up front.

    If tests look OK and it's not big $, I would replace temperature sensor just to eliminate it as an unknown. If the problem is the gauge in your dashboard, it will be difficult to pinpoint.

    Beware. You could get misled. If drivable, get a 2nd opinion before making big $ repairs. Don't tell the 2nd mechanic that you've already had it looked at .

    If somebody offers you a lower estimate because you won't make the repair right away, run as fast as you can.
  • dirtrider9269dirtrider9269 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the cruise control went out on me and the blower would some times come out of the defrost only when i turned it to high now it stopped working completely, i replaced a 1/4" vacuum tube under the battery tray thru the passenger side head light that was in pretty bad shape and now my cruise is working again but my vents still do not blow air out. Is there an other vacuum tube under the battery tray that I missed and will i have to take the battery tray out to find more lines or is it a totally a different problem?
  • osh3osh3 Member Posts: 2
    I am trying to locate a rubbing noise coming from what sounds like the drivers side rear tire. Figuring it had to be the brake pads ( shoes or pads ) I took the rotors in to the shop to be checked to see if they were warped. They didn't show signs of it, but what else could it be. Well they weren't warped and after reassembly the noise is still present. So, the fact that the rubbing noise is linked to speed and goes away when the brakes are applied, foot or parking. Could it be axle bearings? Drive shaft bearings? I thought to raise the vehicle and place on jack stands but didn't wish to become an entertaining UTube video. It just seemed to dangerous.

    anyone have a thought as to how to continue the diagnosis?

    Jim O'
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    sounds as if have bad wheel bearing
  • christina73christina73 Member Posts: 1
    My Jeep lately is getting hot when I am Idle or at a red light. While driving the temperature stays ok. Also when idle the AC gets hot. The temp at idle is around 210. Just a note, while the vehicle is turned off I can freely spin the fan blade,, and when I turn off the vehicle with it hot the fan is not spinning. What do I need to do.

    Thank you, Christina
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    if you have a fan hooked to the water pump the fan clutch is bad

    if only have elictric fan then have fan moter that is going bad
  • crsher2002crsher2002 Member Posts: 21
    Ok, I realize your post has been up for awhile, but I had the same problem. Constant ticking at any givent time, turning, bumps, low speed, etc. After several trips to the dealer, and "tightening all suspension and column" the finally replaced the steering column. This was 4 months ago, and it is now starting again.
  • sarah81sarah81 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, boys. I don't know why but the radio on my Jeep just went kaput. (I have an old, but reliable!) Jeep grand Cherokee Laredo. It's a 95 and the radio still lights up and I can dial the stations but the antannae won't go up and no sound comes out from the speakers. I took it to my mechanic and he said he couldn't figure it out and suggested I go to a radio specialist. I even looked in the fuse box fuses are all fine too!

    Who can help a girl out and save me from spending money I don't have?

    Thanks!
    xoxx
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    My first guess would be that the motor that extends the antenna is shot.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • n0otron0otro Member Posts: 12
    I put a new headlight switch in the car today, and the headlights still don't turn on. Again, the high beams work fine, but the regular head lights don't work.

    How should I begin troubleshooting?
  • jeeepjeeep Member Posts: 5
    Hi I have a 03 GCL V8, low 29,100 miles on it I'm the 2nd owner. 1st when at a stop light the idle is at 600RPM then it will drop to 400 or 300RPM like it ready to die. it doesn't do it all the time but most and when shifting from park to N the RPMs will go down to 400rpm then right back up to 600 and stay there. when trying to keep it at a 1000rpm with foot on the gas it goes up then back down with foot still on the gas, then when I let my foot of the gas the rpm go down to 300 then back up to 600. I have taken to the shop they replaced the throttle position sensor still dose it does any one have an idea ????????????? one more my string feels like I have bad bearings in the top part of the collem I hear popping sounds as well, doesn't feel smooth sometimes ruff and feel the steering wheal likes it loose ??? the shop said nothing was wrong,they like to take your money to tell you all is ok..
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    idel sounds as if have vacuem leak try and pintch the hose thatgoes to the brake booster and see fi idel smothes out as for the stearing you shoult take to a place that rebuilds stearing coloums (find in yellow pages) have them check it out
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    My 97 Jeep is older and 4.0L I6, but your problem sounds similar to mine. Fixing these problems at a repair shop is all about finding the right person.

    Due to my vehicle age I decide to troubleshoot myself or tow to junk yard. Doing your own work involves risk and buying tools, but if repair $ not getting results ??

    Get a haynes manual. Buy/borrow a vacuum gauge. Follow their instructions. If gauge OK, read on. Otherwise your problem is probably different than mine.

    Here's my story: Service ignition if overdue. Otherwise, just inspect spark plugs. Mine looked OK. My throttle has a sensor and control valve. Take picture of throttle area, then remove throttle and clean spotless. My control valve was very dirty. I replaced it. Engine ran better, but not fixed.

    Bought fuel pressure gauge. My spec is 45 psi. At idle, gauge was vibrating between 35-42. Bingo !

    My initial conclusion: Insufficient fuel pressure, steady or intermittent, threatens to stall the engine. Engine computer detects low rpm and tries to compensate, but can only do so much. Dirty throttle and/or controls just make it even worse.

    Due to age of vehicle, I am pretty certain it's fuel pump, but first I plan to look for other possible causes. Replace fuel pump is big $ and probably too difficult for me.

    Hope this helps. I didn't know any of this until I started doing my own research and troubleshooting.

    NOTES:
    1. Test gauges: harborfreight.com
    2. Safety: follow haynes. Safety goggles a must.
    3. If you let car sit overnight and get cold, you may not have to relieve fuel pressure because it may have dwindled to 0.
    4. Electrical connectors are fragile.
    5. So far, all parts have been available at Autozone
    6. You may need tamper proof torx bits to disassemble throttle
    7. My engine has test ports on fuel rail and manifold. Hope you are this fortunate.
    8. Costs: manual($20), iginition parts($100), gauges($35), intake cleaner($5), control valve($40), torx bits($10).
  • rgzilgrgzilg Member Posts: 1
    How do you adjust the tension on a 2001 jeep Gran cherokee 's side mirrors? Mine are loose and fold very easily. I actually failed state inspection for it, the inspection agent said that there is some way to adjust the tension to make them stiffer.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I have a 1997 and maybe I can help.

    First, buy a haynes manual and review their procedures. Here is how I would approach it.

    Preparations:
    1. Digital volt meter
    2. Long black wire (about 15 feet) with a clip on one end and a plug on the other.
    3.Red test probe with long thin point
    4.Get pinout info on headlamp connector (haynes or alldatadiy.com

    Clip one end of the black wire to the (-) of the battery and plug the other into Common/Ground on the meter. Unless you have a good ground, your meter readings may be erroneous. 15 feet should reach anywhere. Now, both hands are free to mainpulate the test probe. Set meter to 20 volt scale

    I disagree with haynes about back probing connectors. I like to pull the connector off and directly observe my probe.

    Anyway, disconnect the headlamp bulb by first removing the retainer clip. Haynes manual should have details on this.

    Turn on lights and probe the 3 contacts on the connector. One is ground, One is hibeam. Meter should read battery voltage when on. Because hibeam is working I expect it to measure OK. Hibeam and lowbeam share the ground circuit. If hibeam is OK, ground circuit should be OK.

    If lowbeam voltage OK and bulb is new, it should work. If not, consult a shop. The rest of this discussion assumes that lowbeam does not have correct voltage.

    You will have to try and pinpoint the problem with your meter. haynes manual has some wiring diagrams or subscribe to alldatadiy.com

    The problem could be a fuse, relay, connector, wire or some combination. The ground wire of any control component (e.g. relay) is also a potential suspect.

    To check a ground wire, configure meter for resistance, disconnect (-) cable of battery and measure resistance between the wire and the END of the (-) battery cable. It should be zero ohms or close to it.

    The body control module (BCM) is part of the headlight controls. I'd be surprised if it could interfere with normal operation of low beams because headlight is so essential to safety. I guess it's possible. Only the dealer can test the BCM.

    Note: Probe carefully. If you short 2 contacts with your test probe, you will blow a fuse or worse.
  • mimi139mimi139 Member Posts: 9
    I recently had misfiring of the 3rd and 5th cylinder. I had the coil pack, spark plugs, fuel filter, and air filter changed on the jeep. Still the misfiring appeared until my car died out and got stuck. I had the fuel pump changed and now it cranks but won't start right away. I got super octane gas thinking it will resolve and at the gas station it started on the third crank with the check engine light on. I check for the code by turning my key and it came back P0340. Went out an got a cam sensor after reading on the forum. I hope this will resolve the issue. Another issue is after stopping on the light giving it gas to take off and it appears to be pretty slow. It's aabout 103 degrees outside and my ac was on high. Any help on this trouble will be appreciated greatly. :confuse:
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    According to my book p0340, is no CAM signal at PCM. It means the engine is getting no signal from the sensor that gives it the camshaft position. Did you clear the code and did it come back? Where I live we have Autozone and they will read and clear your codes for free. If code did come back, sensor may not be getting its 5V supply, or the ground wire is not connected, etc. See the haynes manual or subscribe to alldatadiy.com.

    With your vehicle's age get a vacuum and fuel pressure gauges. My jeep has test ports for both. If you don't, you'll have to improvise. If you let it sit overnight, you may not have to relieve fuel pressure to connect the fuel gauge My fuel gauge leaks unless I put teflon tape on the threads. See harborfreight.com for good prices on gauges.If you want to go all the way, do a cylinder compression test, but I haven't done that one yet.
  • mimi139mimi139 Member Posts: 9
    Come to find out I had the fuel pump changed yesterday and things looked to be good. Then the same thing started happening starting the car up. There was no pressure in the gas line and the ground and relay was tested. The fuel pump defective from Autozone. The worker said that it did not have the air pressure filture with the pump. Round two. getting a new one put in today. Hopefully the issues will resolve. If not the cam sensor was not changed yestrday so that will be the final step. I hope. If not then I can ask to have the compression of the cylinders tested on the car. :sick:
  • donstersjeepdonstersjeep Member Posts: 4
    #2164 dadsboxer - My wipers also stopped working just on the intermittent settings (works on low, high and washer). Did you ever get an answer to fix yours? If so what was the outcome. Thanks for your reply in advance.
  • osh3osh3 Member Posts: 2
    I thought I would return and post the conclusion. tuggajb was exactly correct, the rear wheel bearing had a bad roller!! For good measure, I also replaced the bearing on the other side as long as I was dirty and all geared up. I ended up using an old can of freeze spray on the race of the bearing to remove it. It took the whole pint can to get the job done. With a slide hammer type bearing puller, I was not able to budge it. After the spray it took three good shots and "pop" out it came. Thanks for the response.

    Jim
  • donstersjeepdonstersjeep Member Posts: 4
    el kabong - I now have basically the same problem with my 95 jeep (except a little different). Wipers work on Low, High and Wash but not delay. Any suggestions on where to start looking. I hear there's something called a "Pulse Wiper Module", and of course the wiper switch and motor. Don't know which part to replace first. Thanks for any advice.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    If the wiper motor has no special connections for delay mode, it must be your module and/or switch (unless it's a wire). Maybe a haynes manual can help you troubleshoot. Even if you can use a voltmeter, access may be difficult. If I had to guess, I am much more suspicious of the switch, because it depends on mechanical motion to mate 2 electrical contacts. The delay module has no moving parts. I had a problem with rear wiper on my 97 JGC. The control switch on dashboard AND liftgate ajar switches were faulty.
  • jeepgrcherokeejeepgrcherokee Member Posts: 1
    My 94 Jeep Gr Cherokee occasionally missfires after driving on the highway. It is fine until I get off the hwy and slow down. Then it misses/hesitates for a few seconds. After that, it is OK. I checked for stored codes, changed plugs and wires and tried dry gas. The problem started after a transmission rebuild, not sure if is related. Any ideas? Thank you
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I have 97 JGC, 4.0L I6 with 168K. Believe it or not, it still rides and steers great, AC works, etc. but engine idle is very rough. Once you accelerate and cruise it's OK. The following actions improved idle condition: serviced ignition, cleaned throttle spotless, replaced idle air control valve.

    Following tests are in my garage, wheels chocked. All unecessary vacuum ports plugged (evap, brake, speed control) plus the park brake Off. Fuel pressure and vacuum gauge attached to test ports.

    Making extensive use of haynes manual plus I have Chrysler shop manual (all 2,200 pages).

    Vacuum: At idle it is OK (about 20). Snap the throttle open then release. Appears to respond OK

    Fuel pressure: At idle, its 45psi, but within specs. Gauge needle vibrates a little.

    Measured fuel pump relay. Voltage is battery & steady. Replaced relay as precaution anyway because engine heat may have affected it. Only $10.

    Measured ASD relay. Looks OK.

    Engine coolant and air intake temperature sensors test OK. Camshaft, MAP and throttle position sensors are getting 5V, but I can't probe without risk of damaging connector so exact status is ?

    No unusual engine noise. Inpsected fuel line. Looks OK.

    Fuel injector: Probed injector 1 with a fluke meter that measures freq and duty cycle. Pulse width gets longer as you open throttle.
    I can't compare it to specifications, but the engine does respond.

    Have not done compression test, but I will this week.

    Now, here it fails: Put transmission in D with foot on brake. Engine roughness really increases. Fuel pressure drops to avg of about 40psi and jumps all over between 45 and 35. Vacuum goes down to about 5.

    If it's clogged injectors, why would fuel pressure drop? Fuel pressure not controlled by PCM. If it's fuel pump and/or line leak why does it accelerate and cruise so well. Why does pump have capacity to accelerate and cruise 70 mph, but not work when stopped at a light?

    Would love to understand what's going on. Or should I be looking at something other than the fuel system ?

    Thanks in advance.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    i assuem that you left the vac to brake boster unhooked.when you did last test
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    For garage test, unecessary vacuum disconnected. Last night connected everything....Put small hose clamps on so all vacuum so all is tight...Replaced evap purge solenoid that was causing another problem...Test drove....Solenoid problem fixed, but rough idle remains. Accelerates and cruises OK....Will probe MAP and throttle sensors tonight with jumper wires and do compression test....I read that oxygen sensor not used in cold warmup and I have problem cold and warm.....Thanks
  • n0otron0otro Member Posts: 12
    My 1996 JGC with 97k on it has recently started stalling out when coming to a stop at a light or stop sign.

    I thought it might be the Idle Air Controller valve, so I replaced it but it is still happening.

    Could it be a dirty fuel injector? What else should I check?
  • wvhjb44wvhjb44 Member Posts: 1
    water leak under the glovebox..floor on passenger side is soaking wet what can cause this there is no smell to it i need some help. my daughter just got this 2002 grand jeep cherokee ltm on thursday please help
  • n0otron0otro Member Posts: 12
    I had a similar problem with a 1996 JGC. It was a clog in the air conditioning condensate drain.
    http://www.aircondition.com/tech/questions/4/

    Your jeep is much newer, I would think they would have addressed the problem by now, but maybe not.
  • mimi139mimi139 Member Posts: 9
    Response to my original posting and what was done to the Jeep GC. The code never re-appeared but the fuel pump was changed with a manufacturer defect. That was changed out with a good fuel pump the very next day. Also, I had the fuel pump regulator that made the original troubles go away. The Jeep starts and drives good now. Just a bit of shaking at a stop and an existing rattle noise under the car (maybe the convertor cover). Otherwise all is okay for now. Thanks for the input you provided to me. :blush:
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I have a 97.

    If you haven't done so, make sure the throttle is clean, especially the cylinder where the piston travels. I don't know why, but you need a "tamper-proof" torx bit to disassemble the throttle so you can clean it

    I have rough idle and it almost stalls. Replacing my evap purge solenoid solved the stall problem.

    Try disconnecting the vacuum line from maninfold to evap purge solenoid. It's for emission control. See haynes manual for more info. Plug the fitting on the manifold. Disconnect wire from the solenoid so that engine computer cannot enable it or plug the line. Disconnecting wire may cause a "check engine" light.

    If you have problem in Park, you can do it in your garage with hood open. If not, make your road test as short as possible.

    Make sure engine has warmed up. The engine computer won't enable the solenoid until it warms up

    If it runs better, replace the solenoid and any vacuum hose that looks dry or rotted. My almost stall problem went away.

    Note: If you do this yourself don't make my mistake. It's easy to pull the line off the canister which means the canister is evaporating all the time and is not controlled by the solenoid. The canister is under the bumper. You have to remove the air filter housing to access it and even then it is difficult.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I am going to take a wild guess. Excuse me if I am way off.

    The line that drains condensation from your air conditioner has become partially or completely plugged so the water backs up and eventually has to go somewhere.

    Run your air conditioner on a hot muggy day at least 30 minutes and see how much water comes dripping out underneath the car. The drain should be close to the a/c coil that is integrated with your air ducts on the dash. It should be clear water if the drain is not dirty. No water is an obvious indication.

    Take it to a shop if it looks suspicious. I never did this one. I believe you need compressed air to clean the line.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    This is same 97 JGC i posted before, 4.0L I6....The story continues but has taken a turn....All vacuum issues resolved....Engine still idles rough but with a very consistent vibration. All the chopping is gone.

    Did compression test...Bingo!...All the cylinders were 145-150 psi except cylinder 2. It usually peaked at 120. Squirted in some oil. Went to 150 like the other ones.

    Spending big $ on engine a problem because I will need it for transmission....Local shops don't want to do repairs...They want to swap for used engine....Swaps have a much better $/effort ratio...Nobody wants to scrape a gasket anymore...They might replace my 160K engine with a 140K engine.

    Is repairing engines a secret nobody wants to get out?

    If we can put a man on the moon, we can repair a cylinder.

    What are my options ? What tools will I need ? What is best approach ? What suppliers are rated best ?

    Thanks for any input.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    could have compression ring frozen in ring land

    i would try and get some SEA FOAM from pep boys checker and squirt some in the cyl and let soak for a while then run it some for a few days with some in crank case then change oil see if dont get better small price to pay if works as if you didnt over heat the bugger could be stuck from carbon deposits and sea foam should take care of that
  • jeepowner96jeepowner96 Member Posts: 1
    The air conditioner in my 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee is not working properly. When I add freon, all of it is gone within 3 weeks. I know I have a leak somewhere but my mechanic has been unable to find it. Also, the floor board on the passenger side used to get soaking wet whenever I ran the air. Has anyone else had this problem and how can it be resolved?
  • n0otron0otro Member Posts: 12
    I can't help you with the freon leak, but I also have a 1996 JGC that had the wet passenger side floor.

    I just posted this link a few messages back(#4155):
    http://www.aircondition.com/tech/questions/4/
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    take to ac man they have a freon detector should be able to find leak
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I have a 97 and I have Chrysler shop manual for it.

    1. The wet floor board is probably due to the drain line being plugged at the condenser. I believe you need compressed air to clean the line. I've never done that repair.

    SAFETY GOGGLES A MUST TO WORK ON PRESSURIZED A/C SYSTEM.

    2. If any of the fittings use O-Rings, find them and replace the O-rings. After 12 years of engine heat they are in less than perfect condition. You might have to buy a special disconnect tool (not big $). But there is risk of breaking a fitting when you work on it yourself.

    3. The Chrysler manual says put the vehicle where there is no wind, evacuate freon, recharge and use "electronic R-134A" leak detector", whatever that is.

    Auto a/c work is difficult for diy. I hope it's a line leak and not the compressor.

    96 thru 98 were the best years.
  • corsairdncorsairdn Member Posts: 2
    Ok, so I've read several similar issues but here is mine. My 98 GC 2WD has a dead battery so I replaced it and also replaced the neg cable connector due to corosion. The new battery dies so I charge it and take it to the dealership who keeps it for 3 days and replaces a broken hatch light switch (although the lights never remained on), $300 and the next day, its dead again so I take it back and after a week they can't find anything draining the battery. So I bring it home troubleshoot it with a test light on the neg cable and nothing indicates a drain when the switch is off, so I replace the new battery again and still the problem exists! Its driving me crazy since no one can find anything draining the batter when the switch is off. Any help or advice out there! :mad:
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    try and disconect the small wires to the altnator when you park for a few days
  • corsairdncorsairdn Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. I'll do that this weekend but if the battery doesnt drain then does that mean its an alternator issue even though the charging system works normal?
  • jamesbruce0jamesbruce0 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I have had this car for the past 2 years, but not until a month ago did an alarm start going off every time I enter my car. The only way for me to disengage the alarm is to start the car after I enter it.

    This presents a problem because another issue is occurring simultaneously. Sometimes it will not start at all. It appears as if there is some kind of power problem, that I usually solve by messing around with the fuses. When I turn the key to the start position nothing happens. I have an stereo system connected to an antenna that comes up when the car is started. Whatever is keeping the car from starting is connected to the issue with the stereo system because at times when the car will not start I have no power going to the radio, cigarette lighter or windshield wipers. All other displays, power and lights work fine regardless.

    When this happens I can't start the car until my antenna and radio come on. In the past year Ive had the starter and several other parts replaced, but that doesn't seem to be the problem.

    The alarm is supposed to make other people afraid to enter my car- not me. Haha.

    Any Ideas?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    yep the internal reg has a short
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    have you replaced the ingnition switch?
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I have a 97 and have considerable experience with this problem.

    If the liftgate ajar switch on the liftgate or the one on the liftglass is faulty or has come loose, the body control module will not turn off and will drain your battery in 1 or 2 days. A schematic or connector pinout will show 1 liftgate ajar (digital) input on the BCM, but this input is the wired OR of the above 2 signals. I believe BCM uses this signal to disable rear wiper.

    To check this out:

    (1)disconnect (-) of battery and remove the bulb mounted in the hood.
    (2) connect ammeter (10A) between (+) post and (+) cable.
    (3) reconnect (-) of battery
    (4) Whatever you do, DO NOT start it.
    (5) Make sure all doors closed and manual lights turned off

    If you have above problem, current will read about 200-300 mA and never drop. When working correctly, the current should drop to 30 mA in a minute or two.

    Note: if current is negative it means ammeter is hooked up backwards. Solution and troubleshooting require removal of interior panel on liftgate.

    When you open a door, it should draw around 5A until you close the door and the lights go off.

    If you have the above profile, read on. If you have much larger drain, it is probably something else.

    Removing electrical connectors from the switches should temporarily fix the problem and pinpoint the cause The switch on the liftglass is just a press fit. First, I tried to make it fit more securely. It was OK and then came loose again. I had to drill a small hole and use a tiny screw to keep it in position.

    Another potential cause is if the body control module cannot communicate with another module like the door module over the Chrysler data bus. I found a service bulletin about this. The switch on driver door to disable locks/windows on other doors uses the data bus to communicate with other modules. Correct operation gives some indication the bus is working.

    It is very possible, dealer replaced one of your switches and it was working when you left the lot, but it has come loose again.
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