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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • cenoceno Member Posts: 1
    Is there a site or link that shows which condenser is for which model and as importantly, how to replace the condenser. I have heard the better part of the dash needs to be removed. Any help is appreciated.
  • catsfancatsfan Member Posts: 2
    Unusual pattern: Blower will run for 3-8 minutes and cut off. When it runs, it runs on all speeds. When it cuts off, the blower motor feed reads 0V between red and black. Using a jump wire from battery negative side, 11.95V red to ground. If I jump the fan motor, it runs just fine. I can't find where to trace the ground. Any ideas where and how to figure out this problem? Does the ground go through the resistor?
  • smokebeesmokebee Member Posts: 30
    The AC condenser is mounted in front of the vehicle radiator. If it is bad --replacement is the only alternative. The condenser will appear as a minature radiator. Its job is to release the heat from the cooling process system (as in radiator fin) via the small fins attached to the condenser ( page24-7---- 99 cherokee service Manual) Now if the problem is the evaporator coil( finned device thru which cold refrigerant liquid passes----and hot air in the car passes over and is cooled) is bad---then the dash job is required. The evaporator is located in a common housing with the heater coil assembly---inside and behind the dash----S Swann
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    First, I assume you mean evaporator. The evaporator is under the dash. I have a 97. I bought the Chrysler shop manual on ebay. In the A/C section they don't give any part info. They do show that heater/air conditoning is contained in an integrated housing. It looks like you pull that out and then hope you can extract the evaporator. Once you have that, hopefully it will have a stamped part number or barcode label. I am not sure, but I think the screws for the dash are not all the same length so you have to track where they go. Good Luck.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Thanks for tip. This post will close this thread and summarizes the project.

    The following repairs made it run much, much better
    1. Service ignition
    2. Valve cover gasket
    3. Pull throttle and clean; new idle control valve
    4. New canister purge solenoid
    5. Replace several vacuum hoses
    6. Pull intake/exhaust manifolds; clean intake; new gasket
    7. air filter

    Individually, each one had small impact, but collectively they had big impact.

    It still has too much vibration at idle which is probably due to cylinder 2 testing at 120psi instead of 150. Will address in fall.

    Had my mechanic look over transmission. It was 2 quarts low !
    Now works great. I serviced the pan and the new transmission fluid is not red anymore. It's clear and I am paranoid about overfilling.

    Thanks to everybody for their help
  • qurickdqurickd Member Posts: 1
    Hello:

    So I've spent some time searching the web and this forum to see if I could solve my problem without posting...but alas.. I seem to be the only one with this issue. I got my rotors rotated today and when parking my JGC tonight I heard a whistling noise. It almost seemed like high pressure air being leaked out right below my passenger doors. Any clues as to what this could be? Should I have it looked at? Or is it an easy fix?

    Thanks!!
    :sick:
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    My wife's car is a Ford Escape. My mechanic says that the original rotors cannot be turned. He says Ford made them from a soft metal so they wouldn't squeal. Anyway, he said they were too soft to machine and I had to buy new rotors. He's been right so many times I don't doubt him anymore.

    The composition of the pads they installed and/or compatibility with your rotors may be an issue. If you do some of your own work, Autozone may carry lubricants or cleaners designed to eliminated brake squeal. It may only require removing the tires.

    For convenience, one time I took my jeep to a shop near where I work. The put on a new serpentine belt that would squeal really bad sometimes. I do some of my own maintenance, but not this one. I am no fan of the dealer, but I took it to the Jeep dealer and asked "Can you put a serpentine belt on it that won't squeal?". They said yes and they did. I did not like the price, but I knew they could do it.

    If you had the work done at one of these low $ brake shops that may be the problem. Some situations need high quality parts and an experienced installer, but it's hard to judge.
  • kbonkbon Member Posts: 8
    Has anyone replaced the spark plugs in a 2005 w/Hemi? Both maintenance schedules show to replace them at 30K miles. Did you replace with the same plugs that were original or go with something from Bosch? Also, has anyone installed a cold air intake such as K&N?
  • howie56howie56 Member Posts: 21
    I have replaced the plugs on my JGC 5.7 at the Jeep garage w/ factory replacements shortly before a valve spring broke and the valve went into the piston :cry: It was under warranty I have had a K&N filter on my engine since it was brand new. No problems Just wondering if you have the same problem that I have with your 5.7 engine as when traveling at any speed down the road I get a surging ( 2 to 300 RPM's) no matter what speed that I'm going ? Jeep keeps telling me that it's a normal occurance but the jeep shop forman and I don't agree with that. If you could let me know I'd be very appr.
    Thanks and I hope that this helps You some what
    Thanks

    Roger
  • kbonkbon Member Posts: 8
    Ouch on the valve spring!! I haven't noticed any surging. I have noticed around 55mph that it does some hunting either for the right gear/lockup on torque converter and the MDS. I've had a K&N filter since it only had 5K on it. Am planning to install a K&N air intake which replaces the box on the front of the engine with a direct route from the filter to the intake manifold. Any reason to use the OEM plugs vs. some of the higher tech Bosch plugs other than price?
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    When you say that you had your rotors "rotated", I'm assuming you mean that you had them turned, or machined. If so, were all four turned or just the front? If just the fronts were turned, your problem could be the in the rear. Let me know what all was done and maybe we can figure it out from there.
  • spokenntruespokenntrue Member Posts: 3
    I have a '95 jeep cherokee, Straight 6, 4.0L. I can't figure out why I'm not getting any fuel to the engine. Replaced the fuel pump and filter already. And nothing, No fuel is coming out of the fuel rail. And suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • catsfancatsfan Member Posts: 2
    Problem solved: Heater control was bad. Bought a used control, installed it in a few ninutes and all is back to normal.
  • mvc2mvc2 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    I'm in the market for an SUV and I've narrowed my choices down to two vehicles (02 Explorer limited vs. 01 Grand Cherokee Limited). I am extremely interested in both and they both feature the V8 engines with about 80k miles. Both have leather, power everything, etc. etc.. The Explorer has 20" rims and the Jeep has a 4" lift kit with over sized tires. Both are in immaculate condition appearance-wise. Both these vehicles are private owners, not a dealership so no warranty would be involved.

    Besides the usual test drive (they both drive great), I did take them into a mechanic to inspect them. Fortunately they're both mechanically sound.

    I don't feel like jumping through hoops for the bank and have to make payments so I plan on paying cash for one of these two SUV's which I've worked really hard for.

    My question is; Given you're knowledge of the two make and models, which one would most likely give me the least problems (mechanically) approaching 90k to 150k miles?
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    You are on a Jeep forum so I don't know how many Explorer comments you'll get.
    I think the 02 Explorer was the newer body style as I looked at Fords in Jan 02 and they were not quite out yet (I compared with a Escape and it did not pass the "wife test"). So I bought an 01 GC and have been generally happy with it.

    Other than the infamous brake problems which we got free calipers and rotors under warranty, the only other mechanical problems were minor: 3 bad seat heaters, stuff like that, all fixed under 3/36 or the extended warranty. I had a power window regulator go in 07, another notorious problem, and did it myself for $100 w/A1 autoparts vs $500 at the dealer. Oh yes, I have a loaded Laredo with the I6 and Selectrac since my mechanic said it was the best combo Jeep ever made, so I sold it to my 21 year old son last Fall and no problems in almost a year at 87k miles now. I presume you are looking at one with the 4.7 V8 and automatic 4wd quadratrac, more complicated so you may have more concerns with higher miles (can you tell if the transfer case and differentials were ever serviced?). FYI, I bought an 07 GC loaded Laredo last Fall and got it with the V8 & quadratrac since they no longer make the I6. I needed to tow a 3000lb boat and the torquey V8 does a much better job than Jeep's new V6. I would have preferred a shiftable Selectrac but you can't even get that unless you buy a Liberty, no comparison in ride etc compared to a GC. What was real interesting is I paid $1000 less 6 years later, but last Fall they had a $4000 rebate vs 1000 on the 01, and I have a lifetime powertrain warranty. I bet I could buy the equivalent 08 for a few thousand less with our $3.80 gas here in the midwest this summer.

    Back to the 01, if the mechanic checks them both out it's a tough call. I am happy with my 01 or I obviously would not have sold it to my son and both another Jeep.
    But I've heard the earlier quadratracs had some issues. I am sure Explorers have issues too. Good luck! Another good pro-Jeep site is WJJeeps.com
  • madwestsidermadwestsider Member Posts: 3
    Wondering if anyone could give me instructions on replacing the radiator cooling fan on my 2000 Grand Cherokee 4.0L. To my eye it doesn't look that complicated, but I'd like someone who has done it to tell me what I'm getting into.
    Thanks!
  • smokebeesmokebee Member Posts: 30
    If you are speaking of the electrically operated auxillary fan the book instructions are:---remove the two bolts holding the fan crossmember--disconnect the wire connections---raise the fan straight up and out--replace by repeating in opposite order.
    If U are referring to the fan blade attached to the water pump--take this route. Loosen the four fan hub bolts(do not remove them yet)--Remove the serpentine belt--U do this by lifting the upper idler wheel(use a long wrench on the bolt in the center for leverage_ when belt slackens lift it off the alternator pulley --then remove belt.
    You may have to remove the fan shroud for the fan and viscous idler removal--now, remove the four fan hub bolts previously loosened. remove the fan, water pump pulley,viscous hub assembly as a unit(shroud may have to be lifted out at same time.) Never lay the viscous hub down--always keep it propped upright. Reinstall in reverse order.
    Enjoy the busted knuckles---Good luck
    Smokey Swann
  • madwestsidermadwestsider Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Smokey. I guess I was hoping for a little more decription about how to get to the fan. Do I have to remove the grille to get there? How about the shroud over the top? Any more tips would be appreciated.
  • allaboutgqallaboutgq Member Posts: 1
    If you have fund an answer to this question please let me know. I have an 04 Grand Cherokee and Im having the same problem. Although mine passed inspection with no problems. My email is allaboutgq@hotmail.com

    thanks
    Matt
  • jamin13jamin13 Member Posts: 1
    If you have not resolved this yet I would look at the ground connections to your battery. I had the same issue with my 97 JGC and that was the issue.
  • kelvormkelvorm Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 grand cherokee that started off stalling at idle, we replaced idle air control sensor by the throttle body, and that problem solved. Now it misfires and stalls very intermittently sometimes ok for days and then one day it will misfire and stall out several times. When it stalls it mostly is just a quick engine shutdown. Most times it starts back up right away, couple times it took about 10 minutes to get it going. It could stall at idle, right when I start the car, or as Im driving slower speeds. Computer said it was the coil so we replaced the engine coil and then the distributer pick up coil and new spark plug wires. The engine does seem to be a little rougher at idle then usual. Mechanic is a little stumped and we are at a loss. Anyone have any ideas?? I really need help! Thank you!
  • joe2258joe2258 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4 X 4, 6 cyl. 4li. engine, 120,000miles. It has been stored for about 6 months, prior to storage I removed the batterie and when I put it back in, the hazard lights started to flash and the horn went on and off. The engine would start (2 or 3 seconds) and went off. I even tried another batterie, but the same thing happened. Any clue on what could cause the problem? Thanks.
  • pmoulderpmoulder Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Jeep Cherokee Laredo with 124,000 miles on it. I went out today and there is absolutely no power to the car at all. Even the keyless remote entry wont work. I know it is somewhere in the PCM box. But I am not sure what relay/fuse is for what.

    Can anyone help?
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I had this happen to me (97) when I had battery disconnected during a 2 week vacation. Vehicle Theft subsystem (VTSS) initialization error may be the cause.

    It sounds like your VTSS thinks the vehicle is being stolen.

    Disconnect battery and then reconnect battery with driver door open. VTSS should know that it is not being stolen. Close door and lock with keyless entry. Then unlock it using keyless entry. Vehicle Theft subsystem should now be initialized. If no keyless entry or no VTSS or this procedure does not help, it must be something else.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I assume you did the repair yourself. If so, I admire your ambition. Maybe you need to verify your fuel pump relay circuit and electrical connections. No 12V to the pump, no fuel.

    I have a 97. On mine the fuel pressure regulator is integrated with the pump in the tank. Your regulator may be implemented in a different way. I don't know if a faulty regulator can make it fail completely. Try to get the Haynes manual.
  • 97xjmaineact97xjmaineact Member Posts: 1
    hello all, i recently purchased a 1997 xj,4.0 liter,5 sp,4 door .i bought the vehicle from the 2cd owner ,the mileage is quitehigh 210,000 m.that's not a problem this thing runs awesome ,tight VERY well maintained.the question i have is it runs right around 210 degrees when warmed up.i panicked changed thermostat,coolant, and cap.it still runs same temp.i mean no power loss or anything like that .just wondering it thats the normal temp?well would appreciate feedback!!thank you dale!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    thats about right
    that is why the have the pressure cap on thr rad will rasise the boiling point to a bout 255
  • andyparr27andyparr27 Member Posts: 1
    I have excatly the same problem on my 99 jeep GC but can't find where the noise is coming from has anyone got any ideas. it sounds like a dull stearing rubber gator split but its not caused by that?????
  • craig43craig43 Member Posts: 1
    Jeep starts and then fuel pump cuts out. It thinks I'm stealing it!! Tried unlocking/locking the doors but key won't turn in the driver's side. Any suggestions on how to override the system so I can drive this thing again??
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Solution is big $ or spend time on it. Faulty lock on driver side may be causing your Vehicle Theft System to false alarm.

    I have 97. Removing interior door panels was pretty easy. Separate lock from mechanism before or after removing the lock. Use judgement. My locks are held in place by a tight clip. Pop the clip and lock should come out. Replace it. Maybe the Haynes manual can help here.

    I had my battery disconnected while away on vacation. When I came back VTSS false alarmed. If you don't have keyless entry then improvise. Here's what I did. Disconnect battery and reconnect it with driver door open. All other doors & trunk were closed. Close driver door, Lock with keyless entry. Then, unlock with keyless entry Mine started OK. Maybe you will be OK.

    If you lost keyless entry, I believe you can get replacement at the dealer. Sorry. More $.

    I believe your best chance to fix it is to fix the lock and use the keyless entry (if equiped) to initialize VTSS.

    If all else fails, you may be able to disable VTSS in your Body Control Module, but it's difficult and risky.

    In Jeep digital inputs are Active Low. So if a signal is labeled "Door Ajar Sense", it is true if at 0 volts(Ground) and false if 12 volts. When the door is open (true), it should measure 0 volts. I am 99% sure, but possibility of an exception always exists.

    My Body Control Module has an input called "VTSS Disarm Sense". Maybe you can disconnect that pin from wiring harness and force VTSS to be disabled all the time. You might have to tie the pin to Ground. You will probably need the shop manual

    BCM connectors may be difficult to pull out. Do not break retaining clips on BCM connectors by squeezing too hard (like I did once). I would say try this as a last resort.
  • deratristarderatristar Member Posts: 14
    Not sure about your alarm, but give this a try...

    Put the key in the ignition
    Turn the key as if you are going to start the car, but not all the way to start (Stop just before)
    Turn all the way back to accessory mode
    Do this 2 more times
    Then turn the engine over.

    Also, check under the dash on the drivers side for a little button. You may have to hold it while doing the above turns to reset it.

    Some Jeeps (and ironically some Fords) used this system back in the mid-1990's.
  • genotondagenotonda Member Posts: 1
    I am trying to replace the battery in my 1999 JGC, and it as this plastic jacket/cover that snaps around it. I un-did the snaps, but cannot move the battery. I cannot seem to find a way to completely remove this cover, it looks like it is connected to the base that the battery sits on. Can anyone please help?
    Thanks
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I have a 97 JGC and the shop manual. Chances are good it is similar to yours.

    They show a diagram with a shell like casing that sits on top of the battery. The hold down bracket and its bolts hold the battery in place and secure this casing. They call the casing a "ThermoGuard".

    There are no extra screws or bolts for the ThermoGuard. Once you remove the hold down bracket, it should come off. It may be wedged against the fender shield OR was forced into place when the original Chrysler battery was replaced. The width and length of the replacement battery was probably different than the original. If somebody hammered it on will a rubber mallet, you may have to break it to get it off.

    It was a long time ago but your email reminded me that the first time I serviced my battery, I took mine off and threw it away.
  • randersjrrandersjr Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm a new poster here, so thanks in advance for your help. I have a 1997 Grand Cherokee Limited which is perfect after 225,000 miles except for the last 1,000 miles, when I turn tightly in either direction (making a u-turn) the front end "lurches" and I can feel a grinding. Also the tires act like the front differential is locked up. If it's done this in the past I've never noticed until now.

    Also, since this is a full time 4WD, can the front drive shaft or any components be removed to make it a 2WD permanently?
  • jeeplvrrijeeplvrri Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 98 JGC Laredo, and I had a clunking noise in the front.... my mechanic says that it is the Viscous Coupler. I Googled the VC and have read that when the VC goes bad, the symptoms you describe are what happens. Bad thing: it is going to cost me about $1500 at a reputable auto repair shop; would probably be at least twice that at the stealership.... but if left unrepaired can cause differential problems and on and on.... hope this is helpful.

    (I don't have any advice/info on your other question) Good luck to you.
  • bubba38bubba38 Member Posts: 21
    hello everyone I RECENTLY PURCHASED A 96 GCL 180K MILES DROVE IT FOR A DAYS AND STARTED HEARING ABAD GRINDING NOISE IN THE FRONT END I PULLED THE FRONT DIFF COVER TO FIND PINION GEAR SHEARED DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THERE IS A PLACE TO REFENCE THE DIFF # I CALLED A LOCAL DEALER THEY WERE WILLING TO SELL ME A NEW ONE FOR $400 IS THIS HIGH FOR A RACK AND PINION? SAID THAT IT HAD TO BE SHIMMED HOW HARD IS THIS? SHOULD I CONSIDER A USED ONE?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    WILLING TO SELL ME A NEW ONE FOR $400

    I don't know what a good price would be but I am curious. Does that figure include labor costs for installation?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • bubba38bubba38 Member Posts: 21
    no does not include labor just ring and pinion bearings and seals extra
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    It's not a great idea to go used, unless your GC is primarily a trail rig. You can get the ring and pinion a little cheaper than what the dealer wants. Look online at Quadratec.com, 4wd.com, and other aftermarket distributors. Shimming is pretty difficult unless you really know what you're doing, so I'd recommend getting a shop to do it for you. That way, if it's set up wrong, they'll be responsible!
  • farooq2farooq2 Member Posts: 3
    After about half hour the heater gage starts going to the red side, What I found was as soon as I turn on the engine the fan starts running but in a slow speed and stays on in the same speed wont turn off, I was wondering if anyone can give me some ideas what to look for. Thank you in advance.
  • bubba38bubba38 Member Posts: 21
    thank you for the advice I'm still wondering if anyone knows a place to reference the #'s on diff so I can know what gears to replace in my current diff not sure of ratios
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Transfer case ? CV joints ? I don't now much about 4x4 but at 225K you are probably a candidate for a front end rebuild which is one area I have never gotten into.

    Before you spend $ you may want to make sure your power steering gear is not leaking. It is a big $ part.

    I am a die-hard DIY, but a Ford dealer mechanic I used to know advised me not to do steering repairs except to replace pwr steer pump and hoses.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    This sounds like a problem I once had with a Ford Ranger. When I was in stop and go traffic it would overheat. Out on the highway it was fine.

    I believe it was a "fan clutch". When the vehicle is moving slowly or stopped a lot, I believe the fan is suppose run at a high speed. If the clutch does engage it can't switch to the high speed.

    When you are going 60 mph you get much more air going thru the radiator so a slow fan speed is adequate.

    It's an educated guess because this happened to me quite some time ago.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    4 x 4 off road in az replaced my fromt diff cost parts and labor 589.00

    replaced seals also [non-permissible content removed] have to remove ring and pinion to do those also gearing stamped on ring gear also pinion (these must be bought as a pare as they are matched at the factory PIA to replace do all my own work but had to have shop do these as need specal tools to disasemble and set up

    good luck
  • kipkkipk Member Posts: 1,576
    My sons 99 JGC with 4.7 has been running hot. He replaced the thermostat and it still ran hot. We replaced the water pump and mechanical fan clutch. No help.

    Out of desperation we pulled the thermostat out. It is at the bottom of the radiator and the spring on the thermostat was in the hose rather than in the engine block.

    Is that correct? Seems to me that the water flowing out of the bottom of the radiator puts the water flow against the spring and working against the opening operation of the thermostat.

    By the way it does not heat up when run without the thermostat. We are going to get a new one but need to know which direction to face the spring.

    Also noticed that the coolant looks a bit muddy/milky. ???

    Thanks,
    Kip
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    spring goes into engine block

    install new antifreze as this engine is all alumnim and water eats that up fast
  • kipkkipk Member Posts: 1,576
    Thank you! Any idea about the milky/muddy appearance of the coolant? When drained into a white bucket the "mud" seems to settle in the bottom. When we emptied a bucket a lot of the Mud stayed in the bottom and became almost sandy feeling when dried.

    Kip
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I never thought about it but you may be right. I have a 97 JGC and the Chrysler shop manual. My thermostat is connected to upper hose at the manifold. The spring is on the manifold side (towards engine).

    Because of age of the vehicle I suggest you pressure test your cooling system. My understanding is that the system is pressurized to make the coolant more effective by preventing it from boiling. Sometimes you can borrow a tester from auto parts store. You may have to buy an adapter to fit radiator on your car.

    You can do it with engine cold. Pump it up to your specification. I think it's normally 12-15 psi. It should be printed on your radiator cap or find it in the Haynes manual. Come back 1/2 hour later. There should be little or no drop in the pressure.

    Use a rag and eye protection. When you release the tester you could get some coolant squirting
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    sounds as if someone put radiator sealer in the rad

    i would flush the rad and block good before installing new antifreze

    when you fill with new antifreze dont for get to open blead hole on top of elbow that upper hose hooks to so get all air out of swstemi
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    you prob have a 4.0 six cylender

    the rad pressure on a 4.7 is 22 lbs at the rad cap
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