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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • wabushkenwabushken Member Posts: 1
    My Jeep was idling it started to sputter and then rev up several times. It then stalled and has not started since. Any suggestions?
  • clipkarnclipkarn Member Posts: 20
    Mine acted like that when I was replacing the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Turned out the replacement was bad. But, until I went back to the old one, nicely cleaned and reinstalled, I had the same symptoms. Good luck, it's not a handy item to get at. If you want more on how to attack it, let me know and be sure you aren't on blood thinners.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    If you don't hear the engine crank, then your battery or starter or both are faulty. Parts store like Autozone can check your battery.
    Make sure your foot is off gas pedal when you start and crank it a full 6-7 seconds. Don't stop too soon. I got this tip from a mechanic.

    After that it's fuel or ignition and I would start with fuel. Get someone to check fuel pressure or buy your own gauge (which I prefer). Try HarbourFreight.com. If your fuel line has a test port it should be easy to hookup. The port looks like a tire valve and should be under hood and near engine. Buy or borrow a Haynes manual for specs. If pressure is low then you probably have a fuel pump problem. The pump is electrical. It could be an electrical problem and not the pump itself. Find and replace fuel pump relay (< $20). It should be in fuse box under the hood. Maybe you'll get lucky. After that it gets more complicated.

    If it's the pump, the pump is probably in the gas tank so find a shop. Remind them to replace all rubber fuel lines connected to the tank with new lines unless the incremental cost is significant.
  • cesarhernacesarherna Member Posts: 11
    On my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee the Break pedle start pulsing, there are too many post on the internet about this problem with the Jeeps Grand Cherokee but there is not a clear solution to correct this problem. Any body have done this before successfully? Any break kit to fix it?

    Thank you on any reply.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    This one's pretty easy. My mechanic says that Jeeps are notorious for uneven brake wear. Normally you don't feel any pulsing until there has been enough wear to require your next break job. At this time the break rotors are turned (made smooth) to be compatible with the new pads.

    About 8,000 mi (I'm not sure) after my last break job, I felt significant pulsing. My mechanic turned the rotors to eliminate this symptom. He did not replace pads. The bad new is that every time you turn your rotors you make them thinner. Each rotor has a minimum thickness so the more often you turn them, the sooner you will have to replace them.

    Don't be surprised if a mechanic says you need new rotors. I don't know if they will install new rotors without replacing the pads.
  • jeeperscreep1jeeperscreep1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Grand Cherokee Laredo, bought used for my daughter. Lately it has been shutting off while driving. It had been starting right back up, but yesterday it wouldn't restart and left her in the middle of a busy intersection in 5:00 traffic. After 30 minutes it finally restarted and I followed her home. We have changed the key out just in case it was something that easy, no such luck. She is now driving my Jag (God help me) while we figure out what the problem is. Anyone got an idea of where to start looking for the problem? I really want my car back before she wrecks it.
  • cesarhernacesarherna Member Posts: 11
    I just replace them with a new rotors one month ago and still pulsing, may be I have to go for new calipers and keep trying.
  • amm35amm35 Member Posts: 2
    I just recently baught a 2000 JGC so i dont really know alot about them. These posts are kind of scaring me to tell you the truth. The only problem that i have noticed is when i make a tight turn like into a parking stall it vibrates. Its not the brakes vibrating its the steering wheel itself. Does anyone know what might be causing this? Any comments would be greatly appreciated....Thanks!
  • eroc22eroc22 Member Posts: 1
    hello and thanks in advance,
    my problem is when i start up my jeep i turn then key and no power till i get to the part where my engine should be turning on thats when i get power to my jeep but the engine does not start .me and my bro tested the starter and of cousre the alternator work (we had both tested) we thing it has something to do with the steering colume but we dont know how to proceed because the jeep should be starting up when we turn the key but it doesnt it take till we turn the key to the point the engine should start to get the dash to power up any help would be awesome :sick:
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Check fluid level in power steering pump. Check the hoses for leaks. Given vehicle age and mileage, it is very possible it has a leak and/or fluid is low. If no obvious problem exists you may need experienced mechanic.

    If vehicle paint and interior are in fairly good condition, engine runs OK, and transmission shifts OK, you have a vehicle that's worth repairing.

    If you decide to keep it, get the transmission serviced by draining fluid and replacing filter. Expect to pay extra to replace filter because pan cover must be removed. After next 30,000 mi just servicing fluid should be sufficient.

    If you have a 4x4 you should expect more problems and higher maintenance costs compared to a 4x2, but 4x4 is fun!
  • smokebeesmokebee Member Posts: 30
    Check the power steering fluid level. It may be low.
    Good luck
    S Swann
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    have a switch down on the lower end of stearing coloum by your feet sounds as if mounting screws have came loose or switch is bad
  • c_farooqc_farooq Member Posts: 20
    Hi
    if you dont feel the vibrating when you brake, it could be something silly like your wheels needing balancing or there could be a problem with track rod end, ball joint or suspension.
    take it to a garage you trust for tehm to look at.

    cheers
  • daveriggs981daveriggs981 Member Posts: 2
    Hey I have a 2004 JGCL and while I am driving my speedometer and RPM will go crazy then all my gauges will go down and then I will die. Sometimes it will restart sometimes it won't. They have replaced the ECM, the auto shut off relay and now they are saying it could be the wiring harnes which will run me 2,000 dollars.

    Also my A/C Clutch fuse keeps blowing. They say the clutch is bad.

    ANY IDEAS???
  • daveriggs981daveriggs981 Member Posts: 2
    Sounds like what my '04 is doing....do all the gauges go down before she dies and does the RPM and speedometer go crazy?
  • jhuckjhuck Member Posts: 17
    I had that once before a battery died. Check the battery charge before spending more money.
    I go through a battery a year sometimes making an 18 month stretch and only once it happened this way.

    Good Luck
    Jen
    (2000 JGC first/only owner)
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    It may have changed, but my experience has been that the Engine Computer(ECM) has wires that connect to the Body Control Module (BCM). The BCM also has wires that connect to other parts of car. The BCM controls instrument cluster. It's another computer in the car. ECM needs to communicate with BCM or car won't run.

    After replacing your ECM, your problem could be wiring between BCM and ECM, the BCM itself, or both. Or it could be a wiring harness for ECM that connects to engine. Because dash is acting funny, I would look at BCM first.

    The only way to know what is going on is to pull the BCM, inspect it and inspect wiring harnesses, i.e. the connectors that plug into BCM. I'd be very surprised to find a damaged section of wire 1/2 way between ECM and BCM. My BCM has 3 connects. 2 are 32 pin and one is 24 pin. The BCM has a lot of wires.

    It's a pain to get at. It's under dash. Mine is to left of steering wheel. Disconnect (-) on battery first. Start pulling panels off dash and you should be able to find it. You have to disconnect cables before removing it. Be very careful with connectors. It's easy to break the retaining tabs (I did it). Initially, cables are hard to disconnect. There is risk. The good news is that once you have it you can stop guessing all the time.

    1. You could have a broken or bent pin where the cables attach to BCM. Replace BCM.
    2. A single wire or group of wires may have pulled out from the connector. You only need repair these wires. Not replace whole harness.
    3. The end of the wire may have gotten pushed back into the connector, but it didn't pull completely out. Inspect connector sockets with flashlight.
    4. You can try re-installing the BCM and make sure connectors are on tight (push em in). Your problem may have been loose connector.

    If you have to really stretch a harness so it can connect to the BCM, that's probably your problem. The original harness is too short. You will have to replace harness.

    If you suspect BCM, you can probably get used one for about $200. It has to be programmed with info from your BCM or car won't start. I believe you can find this service on the web. Cost is ?, but certainly a lot less than $2,000.

    This is time consuming which is why dealer cost is high. You have to like your car or enjoy this activity.

    You will certainly know more about the problem. You could get lucky and spot something obvious that fixes it completely.

    Good luck
  • bigjer2bigjer2 Member Posts: 4
    I have just bought a 2004 grand cherokee Laredo Special Edition with only 5580 miles on it...that's right.....ACTUAL miles!!. My question to the experts is......Would it be a good idea to use Mobil 1 synthetic oil? I want to convert to synthetic oil, as i have on all my other vehicles, but would like to hear your opinions.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    have used it in my 2000 and have 188000 miles on it and still dont use any oil betwen changes at 7500 miles
  • cskalskicskalski Member Posts: 7
    I have about 10 grand in repairs and upgrades on my 99 GC laredo V8 4x4 quadradrive 2. Dealer mechanic claims that replacing the 2 front tires only will destroy the transfer case, even though the rears are only 1 year old. I bought goodyear wrangler SSR all season radials for the front,(same as factory uses) and left the rears alone, since the fronts were bald. The rears have almost 90% of their tread left.
    BTW, I bought this beautiful gunmetal V8, heated leather clad seats, infinity stereo, etc. For 6500 in March 08. For a laredo, it has every option except cd changer. THANK GOD I BOUGHT THE CHRYSLER POWERTRAIN WARRANTY!!!!!!. Chrysler paid out 7200 in replacing the all wheel drive system, engine computer, trans computer, body computer, transfer case, all 4x4 related seals, battery, and two tires, A rental car was provided free. Safford dodge/jeep in Springfield VA is very honest and has always kept their promises, but I just dont buy the fact that I need to replace all 4 tires at once. Please help!! I dont want to mess up my finally-fixed jeep. Thx, Chris :lemon:

    Is the mechanic being truthful? The rear tires AREE the exact same size, but a different brand with a more sporty/passenger tire look. I need to go to buffalo in December...will transfer case go bad due to 1/4 inch tread difference?
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    I always was told the big problem is if you have two different sizes on left and right. The basic problem is the diamater of the tire..not the width. If there is a difference in the dia. It will work the case gears all the time. Can you take it out of 4 wheel all the time and shift to 2 wheel drive? That would solve the problem too. My 93 is 4 wheel all the time but I have to say I rotate the tires regular and when they all look bad I replace all four and have not had a problem. Just check the size. One way that is old fashion is to take a piece of string...nylon that will not stretch and wrap it around the tire and where the end meets mark it will a marking pen. Go do the same thing with the new tire. If there is a big difference then you might have something. If not I would just go for it.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    yep you should replace all 4 tires on a all wheel drive as what your jeep is

    when you replace only one axel the trans fer case will think that you are sliping one axel and then shift power to the axel with old tires then shift back and forth as you go down road

    with 1/4 inch deffrence the tire will travel aprox 1/2 foot less than the axel with new tires thus working the viscus clutch pack in the transfer (that is the weakes iten in transfer case)
  • juan2surfjuan2surf Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 93 Grand Cherokee for my son. The alarm went off on it and i do not have a owners manual or reset button for this. How can i reset this alarm? I have tried placing the key in the passenger door and turning it several times, i have disconnected the battery cable as well trying to reset it this way. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • animal2animal2 Member Posts: 11
    if you have the remote opener press the alarm /panic button
  • clipkarnclipkarn Member Posts: 20
    I have a 97 JGC Limited 5.2 V8.

    Can I guess the rear end is a DANA 35c? How can I tell if it's a DANA 44? The bearings/seals are different according to a couple parts houses I've browsed.

    Anybody changed axle bearings? Do you need a press? Are there any not-so-obvious gotcha's?

    Any gouge will be appreciated.

    Cheers --- Clip
  • slaught1slaught1 Member Posts: 8
    Did you ever find the issue with your transmission , sputtering/jerking?

    I have an 05 GC 5.7hemi with the same issue, I have had the torque converter replaced and even looked at several engine side components but have not found anything.
  • slaught1slaught1 Member Posts: 8
    Any luck, is your jeep fixed, my 05 hemi has been doing the same thing since about 30k miles
  • howie56howie56 Member Posts: 21
    Hello : Just last week I had the Torque converter replaced as well as a 50% rebuild of my tranny as it was shuddering while under pressure ( like going up hills and such ) and when they checked the tranny a few of the clutches were badly worn . I haven't had it back long enuf to know if the problem has beeb fixed yet , but when I get a chance to take a trip I'll post another message with the results. Have a great day Roger :D
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    Well I truly count this as the first real defect in my 11.5 mon old new Jeep.
    I thought it was an adjustment in the steering wheel security lock mechanism (they don't make it that way any more) but it turns out I needed a new key tumbler mechanism. 10% or so of the time when starting with either my wifes or my key, the ignition switch would not turn; I got it to turn after multiple tries and twisting the steering wheel, hence why I thought it was a wheel locking defect. At least we caught it before it failed 100% stranding us somewhere.

    Besides that I had the power window up TSB regulator replacement done last Spring, a minor inconvenience and more of a design defect than a fail (the window went up just not automatically all the time) mentioned otherwise on the JGC window sub-forum. And still the Radio AUX won't go back to AUX after more than a few minutes of power off problem, mentioned on the radio forum last Spring, and while a nit, a true design problem confirmed at the dealership. I would give the vehicle about a 8 out of 10 with the "new car honeymoon over" almost a year after purchase. I will probably give it a 9 again in 2 months during a snowstorm and it pulled my medium size boat very well all summer. Hopefully the quality will hold up as well or better than our 01 Laredo that is still going strong for my son at 92k miles. And if not Chrysler is still around in 7-10 years if we need to call on our lifetime warranty ....
  • roskopcoeroskopcoe Member Posts: 1
    Seen a lot about this issue but, have yet to find a thread that cures my problem. Im hoping that someone out there can help me! The truck will start, run for a few seconds and stall. Then to start it up again I have to give it a lot of gas. Then to keep it started I have to keep my foot on the peddle. I can shift into drive real fast and drive away. After the truck warms up it starts with out problems.
    Okay, I have cleaned the Throttle body and the IAC. I have replaced the throttle position sensor. I have changed the fuel filter. I have shortened the screws to the PCM. I have tried unpluggin the AC. Still no luck. I dont know if fuel injector cleaner will help, if I should change the crankshaft postion sensor, if I should change the camshaft positon sensor, or if I should be dumping the truck and never buying a jeep again! I need some help. Anyone???
  • troll157troll157 Member Posts: 17
    Don't know for sure but.... Somewhere there's got to be a sensor that tells the ECU, ECM or whatever Chrysler calls it, what the engine temp. is. Go there and check/replace the unit. Engine runs so I wouldn't worry 'bout cam or crank sensors. What year we talking about?
  • troll157troll157 Member Posts: 17
    Must be getting TOO od. 1994, Ok, With all electrics off, door closed so's the dome light aint, turn the ign. key on, off, on, off then on and leave it on. I'm NOT saying START anything. Watch the CHECK ENGINE light and count the number of times it blinks. It will blink each code as two digits. ie 5 blinks-short pause-5 blinks = 55. After the first two digit number there will be a longer pause then the next number. Haynes manual will run you right through the process and posibly even the definitions of the codes. This really only helps if the electronic engine management system has got faulty sensors. Hope this gives you some idea of what's up.
  • brianbossickbrianbossick Member Posts: 1
    we have a 98 jeep grand cherokee, it will not rev over 2500 rpm we have been told its a vac problem we have checked all the hoses and can not find a problem. can the vac port on the fender pannel make this happen?
  • trimdesignstrimdesigns Member Posts: 1
    Are there any transmission gurus out there? I have a 95 GC 4.0 4x4. My trans will run perfect in 1rst and 2nd, but no 3rd or OD. I pulled codes 14 and 26 from the onboard tranny diag OD light. My local tranny shop suggested a new tranny at $1300 regardless of diagnostic codes. What are my next steps? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Whatever the engine is doing with your foot on the peddle appears to be necessary to keep it running.

    I have some suggestions which helped me.

    Do a compression test. See HarbourFreight.com for gauges. If test results not too bad, then you have a chance. If you don't have compression, correcting other problems may not help much.

    Service ignition (plugs, wires, and coil) to eleminate that area as an unknown.

    Next, get the Haynes manual and go thru the section on emission controls and do every sensor, component, etc. test. You may have to create special test leads. See Radio Shack for miniature test clips and wire.

    Then, disconnect every vacuum line from the intake manifold except crankcase ventilation and plug the manifold openings. Make sure crankcase hose is OK. Any hoses to the air filter should be plugged after disconnecting. If it runs better, you have a vacuum peripheral issue. Reconnect vacuum lines one at a time to see what might be causing the problem.

    If you make improvements, but idle is still rough, consider replacing intake manifold or least re-torque the bolts.

    My one experience with this sort of thing was on my 97 jeep. It idled very rough. Would almost stall. There was no single item responsible for the problem. It was a collection of little problems and as I addressed each one it ran better. Idle is a little rough because compression on cylinder 2 was a little low, but no driveability problems.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Your problem may not be the host, but the peripheral connected to other end. Try disconnecting and plugging all vacuum lines except crankcase ventilation. Plug hose and plug where you disconnected it. If it works better, re-connect 1 at a time to diagnose problem. You may have more than 1 issue.

    If all else fails and you have time, replace intake/exhaust gasket and see what happens On 4.0L I6 they are combined. It's mostly labor. Gasket is not a big $ item. You can guarantee the intake gasket is not working as good as when it was new.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Your fate was sealed when you bought 4x4. I have a 97 4x2 with 170K and transmission shifts perfect.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    could be pluged cataletic converter
  • unekgalunekgal Member Posts: 15
    OK, a few weeks ago, prior to needing rear defrost in WV, I was loading stuff into the hatch and noticed as I looked up at the window that the piece that attaches the wires to the grid lines that run across the window to defrost was melted as well as the wires. We had not used rear defrost for a while and do not know where to begin to fix it. Is this a defective problem that Jeep should fix? Please help! Frosting every morning!!!
  • sassafrasnancsassafrasnanc Member Posts: 1
    The head gasket in my 90 Jeep Cherokee Limited has blown for good now and I need a new engine. Found a wreck 94 Cherokee for a super great deal that has an engine with 75,000 miles on it. Wondering if they are compatible?
    Some how I have a love-hate relationship with this car and KEEP putting money into it....
  • vincergvincerg Member Posts: 7
    Hello too all:

    I have a 2005 Grand Cherokee Ltd. The tire pressure monitor light comes on & the dealer suspects one of the sensors is the problem. In my opinion this feature is nothing more than a pain in my back side. It appears as though the monitor circuit is fused, (10A), but what I don't know is if the fuse can be pulled w/o creating a tsunami of additional problems. Any help would be appreciated.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I have some limited experience with this topic. For a small component, I would be very surprised if that component had its own fuse. Owners manual should have fuse info, but only way to be sure is to examine a wiring diagram.

    The best solution is to disable the output of the sensor. My guess is the dealer wants $400 or more to fix it.

    Because it is related to safety you might have to do it yourself. A mechanic might not do it. I'm 99% sure dealer won't do it.

    First, get a Haynes manual and look for repair info or wiring diagrams.

    The output of the sensor is probably a digital (1 or 0) input to your Body Control Module (BCM). The BCM reads sensor and turns the light on or off.

    NOTE: ALWAYS HAVE (-) OF BATTERY DISCONNECTED WHEN MANIPULATING CONNECTORS OR WIRES, HOOKING UP A TEST PROBE, ETC.

    You need to measure voltage output at the sensor when warning light is On and Off. If the values switch between 0V (Gnd) and 12-14V (battery) continue.

    Otherwise stop. If sensor module uses data bus to communicate with BCM, you cannot disable it and fake out the BCM. You will have to replace the sensor module.

    If the light is on for 0V, you will have to pull the input high (battery) to fake out the BCM. It's very possible that disconnecting output of sensor to BCM will be sufficent.

    If you measure (battery) when light is on, you will have to find a way to ground the input to the BCM.

    In either case the sensor output is left disconnected.

    Use a clip lead to test your solution. If OK, implement a permanent solution. You will have to backprobe nearby connectors. You will need a voltmeter probe with a long thin point. After you find a good location, you will have to improvise a connection.

    Test drive alone (no family) where there is little or no traffic.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    You might want to think about a new or remanufactured Jasper engine. Where I live we have shops that install them. I don't know if you can do it yourself. Of course, it would be more fun. I'm sure they have technical support.

    Unless you know sellers, what are the odds of finding a 94 engine with less than 100K miles ?
  • rbirmrbirm Member Posts: 1
    i have 98 jgc i get no fire from coil .i have changed coil ,tps sensor,map sensor,crank positin sensor,and main computer, still will not start...prior to this it would run but very rough and used the heck out of gas.i chaned everthing thats has come up on code reading...this s crazy
  • tweisstweiss Member Posts: 1
    I installed new tranny cooler lines on my 1989 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer 4.0 liter. The new lines had slightly different pressure fitting ends than the old ones. There are 4 shiny metal tabs inside whereas the old had none and used a plastic collar and snapped onto a 2 tabbed larger collar. I attempted to install without the plastic but couldn't get a seal. I started the engine and tranny fluid seeped out of the pressure fitting. They don't seem to lock into place. What am I doing wrong and how do I fix it?
  • clipkarnclipkarn Member Posts: 20
    Maybe the computer. But, have you got a battery harness you are proud of? If not, you may just not be getting the complete ground it takes for the 'puter to read the sensors correctly. About $135 will get you an OEM harness that connects the batt, the starter and the alternator plus applicable factory grounds. Made a big difference in my '97 reliability and eliminated some mystery behaviors.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I assume you hear the starter motor tying to start it when you turn the key.

    I looked at my 97 shop manual. Maybe this info will help. The first thing they recommend is a test for spark at the coil.

    1) Disconnect igniton coil secondar from center tower of distributor cap. Hold cable terminal approximately 1/2 in. from good engine ground.

    2) Crank engine with starter and observe cable terminal for a steady arc. If steady arc does not occur, inspect the secondary coil cable. Also inspect distributor cap and rotor for cracks or burn marks. Repair as necessary. If steady arcing occurs, connect ignition coil calbe to distributor....(and then they discuss observing arc at ignition wires, etc.

    If you really like the car try to buy a shop manual.

    Some other thoughts.

    1) You must be able to measure fuel pressure
    2) Wiring/connectors between engine computer and ignition components?
    3) What about the automatic shutdown relay ?
    4) The Body Control Module (BCM) and engine computer must communicate to start. Replacing BCM requires reprogramming BCM or it won't start. Is there a similar issue when you replace the engine computer?

    If you fix it, let us know what it was.
  • chateaubchateaub Member Posts: 2
    My 2004 has become a nightmare to disengage part time 4wd (4 wheel hi). It is the select trac package with the 4.0 litter. Sometimes it takes a 1/2 mile or more of constantly pulsating the gas pedal to finally come out. I have tried backing up when this happens and sometimes it works and sometimes it does not. If you have to park and restart it will disengage with a fairly large bang. It does this especially on turns. I only shift with the vehicle moving with my foot off the gas, as I was told by the dealer that this is prefered.
    I am guessing this happens when the front axle is binding a little from being on dry pavement when the transfer case finally decides to disengage. When the vehicle was newer it did this once or twice, now it is constant. I have had the case and axle fluids changed at the proper maintenance schedule using factory fluids.
    It has 63k on it and is still in warranty. I am bringing it to the dealer this week and was hoping for any advise from other owners with similar problems so I know how to respond if the dealer tries to give me a song and dance. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • stetemstetem Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 grand cherokee laredo with 4l inline 6 cyl
    yesterday the oil pressure gage went to 0 and stayed there
    any ideas what my problem might be ?
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    does your-04 have a vacm module on the front axle? check and clean the works on that,as that's how my -90 pioneer worked,and was told that's a standard axle for the cherokee..not shure if grand has that diffrent of a system,but would be worth looking at..maybee a weak or broken release spring,or a bad vacum diaphram or what have you..but it's gotta be there,as that's where the front axle is turned on and off..good luck!
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