Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

weenypoo · January 2009

I have a 1995 grand cherokee and it is missing and jerking. The plugs and wires are all new and no codes are coming up on the computer. Am really puzzled whats wrong with it. Any suggestions?

troll157 · January 2009

Dist.-cap, rotor, fuel press, or filter. Pretty much depends whether it misses more under load, at idle etc. I'd START by listening for vacuum leak. Uncontrolled air intake is a fairly common reason for misses, stumbles, jerks and coughs.
Let the engine idle, listen through a length of 5/16" hose, CAREFULLY, around the intake to head, throttle-body to intake, around fittings etc. Lots of plastic hoses/lines break inside rubber boots etc.

my_94_jeep_gc · January 2009

If you haven't replaced the crackshaft position sensor, consider doing that.

kmoreland3 · January 2009

I have a 2006 Jeep Laredo. It will start somedays and somedays it won't. If it has been jumped off, it will start for about 3 days. Took it to the local Jeep dealer. They couldn't find anything wrong except to get a new battery. Did that and the problem is still there. Has anyone had the same problem?

Dallas_danco · January 2009

There was a Tech article on drilling a hole in the center of the round plastic at the bottom of the Evaporator core to allow clean out. The Problem is with age the Foam "seal that goes between the firewall and the evaporator core breaks down. Whe you park on an up hill grade the water runs out the drain and back down the pipe to the firewall. When this seal is bad it will soak the carpet. Also while driving it can blow back into the passenger compartment. I fixed Mine by cutting the bottom portion of the evaporator housing with nylon string. Then using fiber glass and some carbon fiber tube made collection cup that I hooked some plastic hose too and drilled a whole and dumped it out the wheel well with a 90 degree elbow. I silliconed in some sheet metal to seal the factory hole. My fathers 98 dodge truck had the same problem. But on those tou can put some hose on it from the engine compartment side and rout it down a few inches to avoid the blowback onto the firewall.

mls0512 · January 2009

yesterday my 2003 Jeep Grande Cherokee laredo started making a noise when it was started up (under the hood)..almost like a flapping noise but then it stops and drives just fine no problems..any ideas on this? my husband looked under the hood but didn't see anything broken as far as belts but he doesn't know much about cars...any ideas?

tuggajb · January 2009

when have you replaced the serptine belt (prob has never been changed) could have lost a section and will still work for a while till you are someplace that you realy need it to go then you are stranded

cesarherna · January 2009

On my 2000 Grand cherokee L. when the weather is hot or warm the car start fine but when is cold I have to crank up the engine for at least 7 or more seconds, What is making a hard start only on cold weather?

Thank you

nj_johnk · January 2009

I have a 2000 JGC with tan leather wrapped steering wheel. The tan color on the leather wrapped wheel has partially peeled off. There are also age cracks in the leather which yield the ugliest steering wheel possible. (It seems the tanning process used was more like a paint then actually tanning the leather.)

Any suggestions from others that have fixed this? I was considering buying a new leather wrap from Wheelskins. I suppose the old leather wrap should be cut-off the wheel before adding a new wrap? Any suggestions welcome - I have no experience with wheel wraps.

cwmccomb · January 2009

Neither heated seat button lights up nor do the seats heat up, this is both for the driver and passenger seats. Could this be as simple as a fuse? I do not notice any other issues, at this time. Any help would be appreciated before it has to go in the shop.

deratristar · January 2009

My 2000 JGC has a problem with cylinder 3 misfiring. Happened last year, and we replaced the plugs. Problem seemed to go away, but same error code this year again. Could the coil boot be bad? Or the coil pack? (Hope it isn't the pack... they aren't cheap). Any other ideas?

stever · January 2009

I've heard of a couple of good reports with the replacement leather you sew on to the wheel. Forgot the brand. One poster somewhere on CarSpace a couple of years ago that his handiwork looked as good as the factory steering wheel.

GC1998v6 · February 2009

Hey all. I just bought a 1998 Jeep GC Laredo all time 4wh drive , with 80,000 miles on it from a guy i knew who took exceptional care of it. Very Clean. I buffed and polished it, semi new tires, new breaks, and new filters. Good jeep to own.

It runs great, except a few things. I mainly drive it back and forth to school, a modest 10 miles a day, 20 tops.I noticed that the inline 6 is semi weak for it. It drives nice, but i do a decent amount of highway driving at times, and it handles it fine, i just wish it had a little more get up and go. When i press the gas hard it accelerates semi slow, down shifts, and they gets up to speed. Any thoughts on how to improve my engine performance. I have previously thought about a cold air intake, some new plugs and switching to synthetics.. Any thoughts?

I also noticed that when i try to put it into 4wheel low, it doesn't like it too much and starts to tremble a little bit.

trek87 · February 2009

Are you talking about when you floor it or just when you try to merge, for example?

Unless your plugs haven't been changed in the last 30K miles, new (and I'm assuming by 'new' you might mean 'performance') plugs won't produce a noticeable change in engine performance beyond a few % improvement in fuel economy.

In my opinion, unless you're making a lot of accompanying modifications, a cold air intake alone is a waste of money for this engine. 5-10 hp simply isn't enough to produce a significant change in power.

Using a synthetic blend would drop your engine temperature slightly and let you go for longer between oil changes, but I also think this is a waste of money.

As for the 4WD L, please provide some more details. Did the previous owner service the transfer case? You might also think to check the TC linkage with the transmission - it can come loose even with normal driving.

Good luck

.

DD99Z · February 2009

I just bought a 99 GC with a 4.0 and it has a bad knock that was coming from the upper end but now since I took the valve cover off and checked the rockers and springs (which seemed good and had correct 20lbs. of torque) the knock seems to come from the lower end. I have no loss of power when accelerating and oil pressure is reading 50 on the guage so I'm assuming it's not the crank. Does anyone have any other ideas before I rip the motor out?

tuggajb · February 2009

have you used a rod or handel to listen on the lower block
some parts houses have a cheep engine stescope that has expanabul rods to listen to the engine while it is running (could be bad piston rod etc ) you should be able to pin it down closer before you pull engine.

idahojeep · March 2009

try turning ignition on then off 3 times in 2 seconds. should reset

oldbaja · March 2009

4.7L GCL Yes it just decides to shut off sometimes when coming to a stop. Then at idle in gear it like idles down to near zero and then jumps back to 700-800 jerking the vehicle. If your not on the ball you could hit rearend somebody. Also have had the complete dash go blank with the engine still running and driving fine.

tcaron · March 2009

Hi tony just wondering if you ever found a fix for your jeep speedometer problem, I am having the same problem. If you found the problem could you please email me with the fix thanks Tim, Oh by the way I had changed the speed sensor and that didnt fix it. my email is tcaron@chartermi.net any info would be greatly app.

dbmac · March 2009

i have to put the key in the passenger door to deactivate the alarm before i was able to start my 97 cherokee. Good luck!

poling · March 2009

I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee Laredo and have recently noticed that when I leave it in the garage overnight a large puddle of water forms underneath the left rear wheel. I've wondered of it's condensation but it's a large puddle - 1' x 2' sometimes. It started a couple of weeks after I had my gas tank replaced so I'm wondering if it is related, but have no idea. :confuse:

starrz · March 2009

My tailgate won't open, got it used through dealership
the remote button is broke
is there any other way to open the tailgate without remote?link title

trek87 · March 2009

try hitting the unlock button manually on the driver's or front passenger's side door - that should unlock the tailgate as well. good luck.

gcristea · March 2009

Hey anyone--just bought a cherokee with the 4.0 engine and have noticed it takes forever to get the engine to full operating temp--is this the norm or do I need a new thermostat or somethingp--thanks--George//

trek87 · March 2009

Please define what you mean by "forever".

deratristar · March 2009

I have a 2000 JGC with the 4.0 L engine. Mine heats up quickly, goes to 210 degrees, and stays there.

I'd check if the thermostat is stuck open (a safety mechanism to avoid overheating). If it is, replace it. Make sure an get a 210 degree thermostat (Cooler is NOT better on the Jeeps... causes an error code, no heat, etc).

gcristea · March 2009

I can drive for 20min around town and the temp gauge has barely moved//so far it has only warmed up fully when I drove it home(about 100miles)//since then I haven't needed to drive it more than 15-20min and I get no warm up//thanks for any help//

trek87 · March 2009

OK, that sounds like a simple thermostat issue - maybe have your shop take a look. Good luck. My ZJ hits about 200 F in less than half of that time.

smokebee · March 2009

Battery may need replacing in the remote. That was my problem.

neb1997 · March 2009

The issue with the 4.0 is usually over-heating. Before you replace the thermostat, perhaps you make sure the gauge is correct. I believe most parts stores have an temp scanner/infra-red style that you can use. That way you don't start disturbing something that may be working well.

If you replace the thermostat, make sure you get the correct one with the little bleeder valve in it. It looks like a little rivet that can allow air bubbles to escape and not build up in the engine.

My 4.0 heats up to 210 within 5-10 minutes depending on outside temp.

drucky · March 2009

My 2000 Grand Cherokee rear passenger door lock makes a screeching noise when it locks and opens, what can I do to remedy this?

etomori · March 2009

Anyone know of a short cut to replace the lower radiator hose on a 99 GCL 4.7 V8? Looks the the Hayes Manual people did not do a real teardown to describe the procedure. Is there a easier or simpler way to remove and install a new lower hose without having to take apart the front end? Would appreciate any tips. Thanks.

tuggajb · March 2009

need to replace the door lock moter

xscout · March 2009

I've had two 1997 JGC's with the 4.0 L6 and both heated up quickly. I'm about 5 miles from work in a semi-rural area and always had full heat way before I got to work. I would change the thermostat.

bbuchanan · March 2009

Removed bumper and reservoir below right head light. I can see the factory predrilled holes but the relay is not there. Apparently a change was made in 2004 and I haven't located the new location as of yet. Any help would be appreciated as I am trying to follow the wiring harness but have not been able to find the new location.

mataus · March 2009

I was wondering if anyone out there would know why my Jeep Cherokee would stall when I hit the brakes.

I'm lost when it comes to this question.

Any help would be greatly appreciated..

Maddy

tuggajb · March 2009

posable have bad brake boster when hit brakes cause big vacuem leak

loupet · March 2009

I have a 2004 CRD Grand Cherokee. When shifting sometimes the engine management light comes on anc car goes into limp mode. When I turn off ignition then restart, the light stays on until I have gone through all the gears in normal driving then goes out. OMB2 meter shows no error code. Anyone know whats going on?

mtbventana · March 2009

My JGC has cloth seats and everything stains them, even just water. Does anyone out there know an easy way to clean them???

nj_johnk · March 2009

I have replaced 3 door latches on my 2000 JGC. Seems to be a defect with them. To replace the rear door latch, you'll need to pull off the interior door panel, which is held on with "buttons". There is a tool for popping the buttons out, but you can manage with a couple of stiff putty knifes placed on each side of the button. (You'll probably snap off a few but they are not expensive to replace and you'll get the panel off). Remove the phillips screw in the bottom of the hand grip. Pop the panel buttons and remove interior panel in one piece, disconnect the connecting rods for the lock and door handle and then lastly there are 3 Torx screws accessed with door open that need to be removed. You'll also need to unplug the wiring harness from the old latch and reattach to the new latch.

clintage · March 2009

Howdy! Welp, i'm a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee owner. Does that say enough? I've had electrical, cooling, and other problems out the wazoo. The latest is my jeep cuts off if i'm idle. If it falls below 1000rpms, it acts funny. If falls below 500, it cuts off. So right now, when I come to a stop I have to shift into neutral, break with my left foot while giving just a little gas with the right foot to keep it around 1000rpms so it doesn't shut off.

I know this may be a deeper issue (I've read some other sites talking about air intake, etc...), but if I can just adjust the idle up some and see if that could do as a work around for the time being, that'd be great. I'm just not sure how to do it/where to look. I remember my dad doing this for a car that had the same issue, but that was many moons ago. If this Jeep can just last me 1 more year until it's paid off, I'll be happy.

Can anyone gives some me some pointers on where to look and what to do to turn the idle up? :confuse:

newtojeeps · March 2009

I need some advice. I just bought a used 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited a week ago. Its been running fine but when I bought it I was told the exhaust manifold was cracked and the VIC said "coolant sensor bad". I took it in for an oil change and to replace the sensor and replace the serpentine belt. The mechanic told me the sensor was fine, but it was running too cool so probably a bad thermostat. Turns out there was no thermostat in the jeep at all and the housing was in bad shape. So they installed a thermostat and a new housing. Now it runs rough, the "service engine" light came on. I took it back and they told me it may take 3 cycles of running for the computer to reset itself with the proper levels. I drove it around for a while and now I have bad exhaust fumes inside! Especially when I run the A/C. I know I have a crack in the exhaust manifold but I didn't have the fumes before todays fix. Any ideas what could be causing this all of a sudden? I know mechanics hate it when you tell them "It didn't do this before"...but it didn't! Any ideas would be much appreciated.

frumunda · March 2009

Ok...so you replaced the thermostat and now the system is probably working like its supposed to...now that the coolant is being regulated the ECT(engine coolant temp)sensor is finally noticing that the coolant is either getting warm/not getting warm and is sending that information to the ECM(engine computer) telling it "WHOA!! Its not running rich/lean enough!!! ADJUST! ADJUST!). I'm thinking that now your mixture is running too rich and thats why you are smelling fumes...through the LOVELY cracked manifold. What makes matters worse is that with that crack, the manifold can suck in oxygen, thus leaning out the mixture at the O2 sensor and tricking the ECM into thinking you're running too lean at the injectors...ergo, too much fuel and a really nasty odor. It can also cause your catalytic converter to start loading up and deteriorating. This is what I'd tell your technician. Its like the snake that eats its tail. If you need me, send me an email at brianjoe69@yahoo.com. I'll help you more if need be.

Brian

trek87 · March 2009

just a long overdue update in case anyone searches and finds this thread...the squeaking was my serpentine belt. it turns out my belt tensioner was worn out and had to be replaced. the squeaking was due to improper belt tension. a simple repair.

went ahead and replaced all 4 shocks and man, what a pleasant improvement on all-around ride and handling (esp. on turns - not nearly as much lean). well worth $40/mopar shock.

clipkarn · March 2009

Aint it great when your efforts have great results? Hooray --- Clip

mtbventana · March 2009

is that $40 for the set or $40 per shock?

trek87 · March 2009

$40/shock

axe101x · March 2009

ok i have Just Emptied Every Pocket (jeep) replaced ccps,tps,radiator, put electric fan on, new power steering pump, new hoses,new water pump, new transmission, new fuel filter, Spark plugs,cap, rotor button, electonic pick up under rotor button
now my question is when i drive normal it is fine but as soon as i try to pass it starts chugging like i'm going on and off with the throttle. Also does it in park idling and throw the throttle to it full and it does it just like before what could this be? fuel press. reg.?
fuel injectors, electrical, cat conv? Got any ideas. Please help its our only vehicle

neb1997 · March 2009

I had this issue. Mine would chug like this when passing and eventually when I was just driving down the road normally. It was the o2 sensor. I think the part was the upstream sensor, located before the cat/converter. The part was around $70. Go to a autoparts store and use their computer code reader. You should be able to pick up an error code if the sensor is bad.

The chuggin freaked me out and I'm so happy it's gone.

axe101x · March 2009

there is no check engine lightr on and it doesnt come on when chugging anything else

Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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