Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
The starter is a DC electrical motor that is turned on by energizing a solenoid which is an electromechanical switch.
If you can read an electrical diagram, obtain the Haynes manual and find the circuit that contains your fuse and trace what it is connected to. The solenoid may have its own circuit. Double check amp rating of fuse.
If you can't pinpoint the problem, replace the starter. Make sure starter comes with new solenoid. You don't want to use old solenoid.
If starter is only 1-2 year old, something may be wrong with the gear mechanism being turned by the starter which increases mechanical load on motor which makes it draw more current. You'll have to consult a mechanic. It's an unlikely reason, but it's possible.
I've replaced starters. Take a picture of it before disassembly.
Always disconnect (-) cable of battery first before you start touching any part of the electrical system cover up (-) post on battery so cable cannot accidentally reconnect.
The Red Rat
RR
when i first got my all wheel drive laredo,there were three diffrent sizes on it..and-unfortunately,a whine in the rear axle--a.w.d's HAVE to have matching tires,or you strain the gears in the rear and front axles..
--while shopping,found walmart had a sale on goodyear wranglers-FO $60.BUCKS EACH!!
-four tires,mounted and balanced($5 buchs per wheel for the balance)still put a fresh set of
235/75/15 witch is what my -98 laredo uses,not the 16's(the later models use the bigger stock rims)..for less than $250.00
but,they'r only 40 k tires(boo-hoo)..i'm one who's thrilled with having a fresh set of matching tires,on what my buget could afford !
-just checked this week-they were on sale this week !..ya might want to hurry!merry christmas!
Thanks,
OIIIIIIIO
-i was impressed with all the info-that's usually not there in other cars. :shades:
I currently have 136K miles on the Cherokee and it has been treating me very well. I want to treat it very well too by giving it a major tune up ( i have given it a tune up about 30k miles ago ) what, exactly, should I do for a major tune up ? remember , this engine is a 4.0 inline 6 ( a super engine ) and does not use the conventional caps and rotor etc. @ idle you can feel a slight hesitation if you listen and are well in tune with how an efficient engine should sound. I want to get it running very smooth and treat it well so it will give me all its got. Professional help only please , I really appreciate opinions but really need advice of a well experienced pro with this make and model and the 4.0 I-6 / Thanks!! John -
It took me a couple a months but I got my jeep running good again last summer. I couldn't get it to idle as smooth as it used to. I did a compression test and 1 cylinder was slightly out of spec. I have an engr background so I think it interferes with smooth idle. Acceleration and power are OK
See the Haynes manual for service recommendations.
P.S. If its running poorly and std tuneup does not help, consider replacing the intake/exhaust gasket if its never been done. It's not easy, but doable.
OIIIIIIIO
-so,chains DO go out,just not nearly as often.. :sick:
jeep last a long time have 210000 miles on a 4.7 never had a problem still dose not use oil between changes and use mobil 1 and change at 7500 miles
Took it to a gear guy and he said not in the drive shaft - he thinks its a rear end noise? Another guy said it could be the transfer case? Anyway to diagnose the problem from the symptoms? I don't know a lot about cars but the it would have to be something that "engages" when pressing on the gas right?
Also at times if I am backing up and have the wheels cut really hard I will get a clunking noise that seems to be coming from the front end as well. Any help would be appreciated. The Jeep is full time AWD - it should be noted that the noise started when NTB only replaced the two front tires and left the old rears on - a friend said that you have to replace all tires at once or it could harm the transfer case due to the differences in diameter. As soon as I heard that I went back to NTB and them install two new tires on the rear (now a matching set). The noise started very faint but has grown in volume - you can feel the "whine" in the peddle a little bit but becomes most appearant once you hit around 30mph or so
1. Driveline Vibration
"Tires out of round or unbalanced wheels will cause a low frequency vibration...Brake drums that are unbalanced will cause a harsh, low freq vibration....Driveline vibration can result from loose or damaged engine mounts....Propeller shaft vibration increases as vehicle speed is increased. Vibration in a specific range is not usually caused by an unbalanced propeller.Defective universal joints or an incorrect propeller angle are usually the cause of such vibration."
2. Transfer Case Noise
"Insufficient or Incorrect lubricant. Drain and refill. Disassembly and inspection may be necessary to locate source of noise."
---------------------------------------------------------------
Given age of vehicle make sure rubber boots on CV joints are not leaking or soaked in oil. If they are not dry, you have a lubricant leak and who know how long it has been leaking.
Ideally, if you can find a way to operate vehicle without the transfer case, even if speed is limited, it may help you diagnose the problem.
ring and pinion in the front that seams to make the noise i just dont worry bout it
Everything is electrically controlled.
Temp gauge should be up to normal within 5 minutes of leaving the driveway unless you are idling. If it is very slow then your thermostat is stuck open and it will take a long time to get warm air from the heater so for a short 15-20 min. trip you never get much heat. However, it eventually should warm up. Where I liive our coldest days are in the 20's and my jeep is parked outside.
I am not sure but I don't think there is any control valve to control circulation of engine coolant thru heater core. Check the Haynes manual. Find where the heater hoses go thru the firewall. Make sure they get warm.
I'd make sure warm up is normal (thermostat OK) and then look at how the duct is controlled. To do it yourself plan on some disassembly of the dash which I always find time consuming, but it can be done.
-they will b able to tell u what's wrong..
-if engine temp gauge is hot,and temp knob is turned all the way in the red zone-you should have heat..you should have a gauge-and normal operatimg temp is around 200% f,..try that b 4 you dive into tearing dash apart..also,online repair manuals are online at advance auto and autozone..more detail than a haynes manual,just print out your findings-keeps you from getting greasy keyboard(lol)
Let me know if there is no airflow change as you dial the switch and I will tell you what I did.
Good luck
Smokey
-advance auto-online has service manuals..look up the part,and after that,yhere's usually a "how to fix it"link..saved me a lot of greif. :sick:
I wish I knew what the problem was - I don't want to spend money rebuilding the front and rear diff, put a new drive shaft in and then find the noise still there and the problem lie within the transfer case - with all those repairs I would spend more than the car is worth - I should probably try to trade it in and just say goodbye to it. The one guy that said the transfer case was the issue mentioned the clutch within the transfer case was probably burnt out because NTB only replaced the 2 front tires and not all 4 tires as required in an AWD car (I didn't know it would mess anything up or I would have replaced all 4). Anyway, since the front tires were smaller diameter it caused havoc in the transfer case he says - makes sense I guess - I was just hoping it was something easier to fix and cheaper!
If you change your oil and it looks dirty right away or looks dirty within a week you have sludge in your engine. But if clean, you could still have a clogged screen or tube.
If you have sludge at top of engine, you will have to remove manifold and phyically clean it out. Hope you don't have that.
When I was working on my car it would drive a few miles OK and then oil pressure light would come on (even after cleaning pan). I had to use Gunk engine flush several times. Hi perf oil filter helped a lot.
It involved a lot of hard work. Most mechanics would not make this effort on somebody else's car.
If not an experienced DIYer, get Haynes manual and follow all safety precautions.
the mech. should take a compression test to see if have right compression on the.
next check the plug
should be able to check if have spark at plug
if not check the wires from computer to coil
Go to harborfreight.com and type in keyword "OBDC". They have several code readers you can buy. You can get one for $60 and they also sell the Haynes manual about OBDC for $20.
There is also a Haynes repair manual for your jeep.
There is an inexpensive tool you can use to check spark on each plug. I forget what its called. But an auto parts store should know what it is. One at a time you remove each spark plug and put it in the adapter. The adapter lets you observe the spark. Disable the fuel pump by removing the relay or circuit breaker. On my 97 Jeep there is a fuse/relay panel under the hood. You might need the Haynes manual to find it for your car. Have someone crank the engine briefly while you observe the spark. Put that plug back in and then test the next one. Make sure your battery is fully charged before doing this test.
Thank you
air in system should be able to bleed that out have bleed screw by thermostat
Disconnect (-) of battery while removing or replacing components, then reconnect it to test.