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Comments
I've done it. It's not as simple as removing a spark plug. You might have to remove a lot of stuff to get to it so take pictures before disassembly.
--my -98 had them behind the glove box door-check owners manual,as confusing as that one is..kinda frustrating ,when most of it says"go to the dealer" for something as simple as the door remote?,guess that's what you get when a german engineer gets ahold of something..a nice car,with special-complex problems!?!
There is also a unit under the hood that they call the "Electrical Power Distribution Center". It's located under a black snap-off cover right behind the battery. It has the fuses for mechanical systems like ABS, Engine Control Module, Ignition switch, Headlamps and Fog Lamps, A/C components, etc.
My '95 JGC owner's manual has excellent diagrams of both units and describes which particular feature(s) are tied to a specific number of fuse....the '94 should have the same.....if it has survived this long...
-there are two seprate flashers for turn signals and emergency flashers..
other than that-try going to a junk yard,and looking around inside of those partially disasembled junkers-of your model..
Any ideas on what I am doing wrong. I do not want to destroy the connector.
Pg 3-17
"LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn pinion gear shaft bore will also cause a low speed knock."
Gven age of vehicle, a U-joint problem would not be surprising. I know what a U-joint is. I don't know about the other stuff.
An underinflated tire can cause the vehicle to pull. I think the pull to the right and the noise each have their own cause.
Generally, there are 3 types of electrical connector: latch, press, and crimpted.
With latched, you have disengage the latch while you are pulling it apart. Disengage latch and then pull.The connector will seperate into 2 halves.
A press fit relies on friction to hold it together. If exposed to weather it may be very difficult to pull it apart.
A crimped connector is permanent. You have to pull it off or cut it off. Strip the end of the wire and use a crimping tool to apply a new connector. Old connector cannot be reused.
For press and crimpted, hold one end of wire with pliers so you don't pull it out at the other end.
If all else fails, you will need wire stripper, soldering iron and electrical tape.
Jack up the tire and grab top and bottom and shake the h**l out of it see if loose if it is wheel bearing need to be checked better
It's just a suggestion, but put it on jackstands with the wheels aimed straight. Remove a tire and take pictures of how all the linkage looks. Then, put it on jack stands again with the wheels turned all the way. Remove wheel and take pictures again.
Try to identify what looks different and then try to analyze it. Whatever components are in a new position may be the cause. Maybe you will spot something that looks funny or bent. Make sure the CV joint boots are not leaking. The outside of the boot should not be wet.
if they are open type ujoints should be able to see if they have play in them
Online Repair Manuals
I suspect a major air leak, but inspection of the intake system looks good. The intake manifold is on tight, and I can confirm there are no vacuum hoses disconnected. I'm at a loss of what to try next. Any ideas?
-jeeps of that year are a real pain,as dalmer/chrystler won't release the comp codes,so we can fix our own cars !?!-even tho we own them,they still want to get their hands in our pockets for as long as we try to operate them !..my -98 laredo-5,2,awd ain't as easy as it could be,where i was trying to change the transfer case so i could have a 2 w d setting,but if i did that,the computer would go nutz....i dunno,but i wish you luck !
Thanks
Tom
My approach was fix it or junk it. Difficult problems take time to diagnose and mechanics are $$. The dealer is $$$. My dad replaced a fuel pump on his cadillac and the problem was a loose ground wire. But if you have a crackerjack mechanic, they can save time.
Check fuel pressure first. It is very easy to check on this vehicle. It already has a schraeder valve on fuel rail. My fuel pump was OK.
Next, do a compression test. I had one cyclinder that was a little below acceptable range. My mileage was 165K.
See Autozone about borrowing gauges. See harborfreight.com if you want to buy your own.
I did plugs, wires, and coil. (You have to remove plug for compression test so why not). Helped a little, but not dramatic.
Remove and inspect fuel injectors. Mine looked OK, but I did replace the O rings. Replacing injectors is expensive.
OK engine idle eliminates a lot of potential problems. If not, that's another story.
In the Haynes manual under emission controls, they tell you how to check every component. You need a voltmeter with stiff probes so you can backprobe. Make sure you don't short anything.
The next thing I did helped the most. I read it somewhere so I can't take credit. Replace the manifold gasket. On the I6, intake/exhaust manifold share the same gasket. Heat and vibration deteriate the gasket and loosen manifold turning it into a distributed vacuum leak. Not easy. I have 10 different 3/8 extensions and needed all. You might try re-torquing the bolts first to see if it helps.
Make sure you clean engine intake. Fingers and a rag. No easy way. The dirt should be hard and dry. If oily/moist could be a valve problem. It should not be wet. I had one oily/moist input on the cylinder with low compression.
After this you will really understand your engine so repairs become educated guesses instead of guesses. You might find something I didn't list.
There is one more test I can only describe briefly. With an RMS voltmeter you can measure signal from engine computer that controls fuel injectors. RMS value should increase as you increase rpm. Mine was OK. Need an electronic savvy mechanic for this one.
I worked on my car Summer 2008. Gave it to my kid in Sept for his sr year and he loved it.
I’ve been researching the symptoms and asking around a couple people have mentioned two sensor issues on Jeep Grand Cherokees that have been problematic: crankshaft position sensor and/or camshaft position sensor. I’ve located them on my engine but I can’t justify digging around and replacing them when I really don’t know for sure if either of them are causing the problem.
Does my rambling bring any ideas to your mind? Any advice you can share would be much appreciated. Btw: the jeep last started 2 weeks ago. I’ve made approximately 10 attempts to crank. It turns over but acts as though there is either no fire or no fuel I’ve read that a bad crank sensor will disable the vehicle???
Anyway, let me know what you think. I’m guessing I should probably just take it to a jeep dealership at this point to see what the computer is saying now that it won’t start at all.
2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
4.7 L Power Tech
All Wheel Drive
The heat comes on when I select the "cold" setting and the A/C comes on when I select the "hot" setting. I obviously hooked something up backwards or installed a door in the open position when it should have been closed or something to that effect. Other than the temps being backwards everything else works fine.
Can anybody tell me exactly what it is that I need to change?
I want to be able to know exactly what I'm trying to do before tearing out the dash again! It's kind of hard to do a trial and error when the dash is out. You can't exactly turn on the controls and test things.
Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
For the past few months the 'Check Oil Level' Message has been coming up on the computer notification system over and over again. I have changed and checked the oil several times, added 2 extra quarts, and done everything I can think of to get it to stop. I am wondering, what are my options here.. Is there a way I can disconnect or remove something to atleast get it to shut off?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
-i've worked on cars for many moons,and when things went "computerised",everything got even more complex..
where the parts guys help,is they sell a lot of parts,and common problems follow the engine-or brand of car..
--then,add -german engineers-who do things verry well,but-at times,their tolerances aren't dealing with a twenty some-year old car !..as your-and my "dalmer/chrystler-jeep is..it drives great,but fixing it is a whole nother level of aggrevation!
--look for a "low oil sensor"..and forget the computer.!.!.. READ THE DIPSTICK ! ! !
--cause-if you overfill it with oil-you'll blow out the seals,and end up with a lot more trouble than you got now!..
see if th butterfly-air intake valve is working right..
--when it's not starting,check the basics..fuel+spark+air=fire !
-ever r+r'd a sterring colum switch?..
personally,that's one of those things i'd problt just live with,as long as they still work! had many old cars where that wasn't even a option..
--other option,learn to press in-like for wasker-but not waste fluid?!..tha'd work ! :sick:
This problem started in the last couple of weeks and is getting worse.
Fuel Problem?
Electrical Problem.
Injector Problem?
Karl
sorry,not a good time,but lots post here-b4 they even open th hood and check oil !!!!
it wastes time,
--see if the car's TOO quiet..if so,clogged exhaust..climb under itwith a =-LARGE hammer-,and beat the hell out of the catylitic convetrter.!...it worked for me..
---and -quit "babying it !..we used to have a thing called a "tenesee tune up",where a REAL driver,would take grandpa's rolling sofa,getb it warm-then---KICK IT IN THE BUTT!!,and watch large black clouds of mcrap come out the yailpipe!..nowdays,all that collects in the converter...
-americans but crappy gas-din't tune-cause it still starts-then wonder why "it ain't runnin??..try -maintence-- :mad:
My guess is engine electrical or dirt (e.g. dirty throttle that sticks).
I would inspect ignition wires and pull each plug and inspect. Pull the boot and not the wire! Only replace them if you see a problem, but not if they look OK. In my experience, I've not seen a tuneup solve a significant problem when plugs and wire pass physical inspection.
But if you have a broken or fouled sparkplug that's different. When you install ignition wire you should feel a slight click when it mates with the plug electrode.
You will probably need a trained/experienced mechanic who will know exactly what to check and how to make an intelligent guess of a solution. With this type of problem, what you end up with is trial and error.
I hope its help,