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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    You will have to relieve fuel pressure and probably remove the fuel rail. Get the Haynes manual.

    I've done it. It's not as simple as removing a spark plug. You might have to remove a lot of stuff to get to it so take pictures before disassembly.
  • genel1genel1 Member Posts: 5
    Both turn signal and emer flashers not working...where are they located so that I may replace...have looked under driver's side dash and if they are there, they are hiding...thank you for your replies
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    advanceauto.com has online manuals..search for flasher locations,see if either end is powered,as one side is the "out" lead that flashes..sounds like a power prob..check fuses..
    --my -98 had them behind the glove box door-check owners manual,as confusing as that one is..kinda frustrating ,when most of it says"go to the dealer" for something as simple as the door remote?,guess that's what you get when a german engineer gets ahold of something..a nice car,with special-complex problems!?!
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    According to my 1997 JGC Chrysler shop manual. The flasher is in the inside fuse panel. On my car fuses are inside the kick panel below and to the right of glove box.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Member Posts: 801
    The fuse panel on the '93 thru '95 JGC is tough to find if you don't know what you're looking for! Open the front passenger-side door and you'll see the panel on the side of the dashboard next to the rubber seal for ducting to the side window defogger. It's only accessible with the door open.

    There is also a unit under the hood that they call the "Electrical Power Distribution Center". It's located under a black snap-off cover right behind the battery. It has the fuses for mechanical systems like ABS, Engine Control Module, Ignition switch, Headlamps and Fog Lamps, A/C components, etc.

    My '95 JGC owner's manual has excellent diagrams of both units and describes which particular feature(s) are tied to a specific number of fuse....the '94 should have the same.....if it has survived this long... :)
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • mazdamadnessmazdamadness Member Posts: 3
    those had a recall on the fuel sending unit. try that.
  • genel1genel1 Member Posts: 5
    Have found both of those spots before. I am trying to put in turn signal and emergency flashers...still can't find
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    are the "flashers" still working?..if so,follow the "clicking" noise..
    -there are two seprate flashers for turn signals and emergency flashers..
    other than that-try going to a junk yard,and looking around inside of those partially disasembled junkers-of your model..
  • genel1genel1 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for your help...fixed!
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    glad ta help..now if i couls only get someone ta fix my rear axle-b4 it locks up!?
  • styler_vastyler_va Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Grand Cherokee Limited that after it has been driven a couple of miles begins to make a loud thumping sound from what seems to be the middle of the car and pulls to the right. After you stop the car for a few minutes, it goes away and then restarts after a 1/2 mile or so. Does anyone have any idea as to what can be causing this?
  • quaziquazi Member Posts: 5
    I am trying to change the oil pressure send unit on my 1999 Cherokee Sport . That part seems really easy. HOWEVER, I cannot disconnect the connector. There are two red button that look like they should be pressed together. But nothing happens, and I cannot get the connector off the send unit.

    Any ideas on what I am doing wrong. I do not want to destroy the connector.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I have no experience with rear powertrain components, but I looked at my 97 jeep shop manual.

    Pg 3-17

    "LOW SPEED KNOCK
    Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn pinion gear shaft bore will also cause a low speed knock."

    Gven age of vehicle, a U-joint problem would not be surprising. I know what a U-joint is. I don't know about the other stuff.

    An underinflated tire can cause the vehicle to pull. I think the pull to the right and the noise each have their own cause.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    There may be another connector further "upstream" where the wire has a connector that allows wire to be removed. Or the mfr expected the part to be permanent and never replaced.

    Generally, there are 3 types of electrical connector: latch, press, and crimpted.

    With latched, you have disengage the latch while you are pulling it apart. Disengage latch and then pull.The connector will seperate into 2 halves.

    A press fit relies on friction to hold it together. If exposed to weather it may be very difficult to pull it apart.

    A crimped connector is permanent. You have to pull it off or cut it off. Strip the end of the wire and use a crimping tool to apply a new connector. Old connector cannot be reused.

    For press and crimpted, hold one end of wire with pliers so you don't pull it out at the other end.

    If all else fails, you will need wire stripper, soldering iron and electrical tape.
  • frank5_55frank5_55 Member Posts: 1
    2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee, wiper parks in the middle of the windshield. Any ideas?
  • styler_vastyler_va Member Posts: 2
    Thanks alot. I checked the U-joints and they are good. The pulling starts when the thumbing starts. The two are related.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    could be a right front whee bearing have to jack up tire and check it

    Jack up the tire and grab top and bottom and shake the h**l out of it see if loose if it is wheel bearing need to be checked better
  • linrlinr Member Posts: 14
    i have a 95 jgc 4x4 only when i put it in 4x4 going straight no noise but when i turn left or rt i hear a loud clicking and seems like a buckling noise. when out of 4 wheel drive there is no noise only in 4x4
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I just finished rebuilding front end on my Toyota pickup. It's not 4x4 but I learned a lot. Steering and front suspension interact with each other. Add 4x4 and its more complex.

    It's just a suggestion, but put it on jackstands with the wheels aimed straight. Remove a tire and take pictures of how all the linkage looks. Then, put it on jack stands again with the wheels turned all the way. Remove wheel and take pictures again.

    Try to identify what looks different and then try to analyze it. Whatever components are in a new position may be the cause. Maybe you will spot something that looks funny or bent. Make sure the CV joint boots are not leaking. The outside of the boot should not be wet.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    could be the outer axel ujoints are bad will do that popping sound when bad
  • linrlinr Member Posts: 14
    does the outer axel u-joints work when it is engauged in 4x4 are all the time. because the only time it does it is when i put it in 4x4
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    that is the only time that you have power to them and if they are going bad will bind up when you have power and turning at the same time
    if they are open type ujoints should be able to see if they have play in them
  • linrlinr Member Posts: 14
    do you know where and how i can get a diagram on the front u-joints
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I have pdf version of the Chrysler shop manual. I think I bought it on ebay. Expect to pay close to $100. Another source is a subscription to "alldatadiy.com". It's not as good as the Chrysler manual, but in some cases gives you a lot more reference info than the Haynes manual. The Haynes manual is very good, but it is procedure oriented. If your troubleshooting or solution is not one of their procedures you to have to hope one of their pictures or diagrams will have what you need.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited March 2010
    Sometimes you can get lucky online with manuals (check with your local library).

    Online Repair Manuals
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    sounds like a right front bearing running without lubrication..any good wrench should be able to diadnose it..hope the nut hasn't welded itself to the spindle,as i've seen a few 2 wheel drive do that,and that takes replacing the ehtire spindle,i 3wd,you might have to replace the entire axle..find a good mecanic,or expect to stop every 1/2 mile-till it locks up completely!..and you get to walk home!
  • edub70edub70 Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    I just finished replacing the engine in my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. When I start the car, the engine backfires once or twice and revs out of control. I mean, it really revs up like a bat out of hell. Think: your foot all the way down on the accelerator while your car is in park. I immediately need to kill the engine.

    I suspect a major air leak, but inspection of the intake system looks good. The intake manifold is on tight, and I can confirm there are no vacuum hoses disconnected. I'm at a loss of what to try next. Any ideas?
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    start looking at basics-like,is the throttle linkage hooked up correctly?..the butterfly valve that lets air into the intake? how about the sensor that tells the computer how far the throttle valve is open?..
    -jeeps of that year are a real pain,as dalmer/chrystler won't release the comp codes,so we can fix our own cars !?!-even tho we own them,they still want to get their hands in our pockets for as long as we try to operate them !..my -98 laredo-5,2,awd ain't as easy as it could be,where i was trying to change the transfer case so i could have a 2 w d setting,but if i did that,the computer would go nutz....i dunno,but i wish you luck !
  • tthrasher34tthrasher34 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 06 JGC with about 60,000 miles on it, in the last, I would say 2000 miles or so, on a few occassions, I have been stopped at a stop light and when I went to accelerate from the stopped position, my RPM's would climb (4000) but it was as if the tires were on ice and might be spinning. I noticed on the digital gear indicator on the dash, that each of the the P R N D had the broken square indicator around it example [P] [R] [N] [D], I shifted into nuetral and then back into "D" and it went away, and it did it once at highway speed. Does any one have any experience with this happening? Aside from what I have discribed the transmission shifts and drives good as of the last 600 miles that I just drove, could it be a servicing issue? Speaking of servicing, does any one know how to DIY (do-it-yourself)?

    Thanks

    Tom
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    have you changed the trans oil and filters? jeep recommends every 30000 miles
  • serenityknollserenityknoll Member Posts: 4
    ">I have JGC 97 with Strait 6 Cyl, Auto Trans,4x4 (130,000 odom) - After about 5 minutes of driving it stutters and wants to stall between 45 to 60 miles an hour and seems to do it when in the overdrive gear, while on open roads( at cruising speeds). Happens mostly while going up inclines. The problem doesn't seem to exist while in lower gears but at one time it did happen while driving in 1st and 2nd gears - until I added some Sea-Foam. Now it seems to happen only in overdrive...There is also sometimes what appears to be occasional very mild slippage while gear changeing thru 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th but I don't always notice it.There are no code lights flashing indicating any problems..... I am thinking about changing fuel filter which is in the tank and I will also replace the fuel pump - while the tank is dropped...Any suggestions? Jeepster98.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    filters-or flushing's a good idea,but it also sounds like your six cyl might be missing..try tuning it up..overdrive at 50 mph puts the tack at 15/18 thousamd r.p.m's that's pretty slow-specially if your going up any kind of hill.. plugs/cap/rotor...then see how it runs..
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I have a 97 4x2 with I6, high miles . Everything I say is time consuming and vehicle will be offline several weeks and success is not guaranteed. A mistake could make it worse. Review Haynes manual for all procedures below.

    My approach was fix it or junk it. Difficult problems take time to diagnose and mechanics are $$. The dealer is $$$. My dad replaced a fuel pump on his cadillac and the problem was a loose ground wire. But if you have a crackerjack mechanic, they can save time.

    Check fuel pressure first. It is very easy to check on this vehicle. It already has a schraeder valve on fuel rail. My fuel pump was OK.

    Next, do a compression test. I had one cyclinder that was a little below acceptable range. My mileage was 165K.

    See Autozone about borrowing gauges. See harborfreight.com if you want to buy your own.

    I did plugs, wires, and coil. (You have to remove plug for compression test so why not). Helped a little, but not dramatic.

    Remove and inspect fuel injectors. Mine looked OK, but I did replace the O rings. Replacing injectors is expensive.

    OK engine idle eliminates a lot of potential problems. If not, that's another story.

    In the Haynes manual under emission controls, they tell you how to check every component. You need a voltmeter with stiff probes so you can backprobe. Make sure you don't short anything.

    The next thing I did helped the most. I read it somewhere so I can't take credit. Replace the manifold gasket. On the I6, intake/exhaust manifold share the same gasket. Heat and vibration deteriate the gasket and loosen manifold turning it into a distributed vacuum leak. Not easy. I have 10 different 3/8 extensions and needed all. You might try re-torquing the bolts first to see if it helps.

    Make sure you clean engine intake. Fingers and a rag. No easy way. The dirt should be hard and dry. If oily/moist could be a valve problem. It should not be wet. I had one oily/moist input on the cylinder with low compression.

    After this you will really understand your engine so repairs become educated guesses instead of guesses. You might find something I didn't list.

    There is one more test I can only describe briefly. With an RMS voltmeter you can measure signal from engine computer that controls fuel injectors. RMS value should increase as you increase rpm. Mine was OK. Need an electronic savvy mechanic for this one.

    I worked on my car Summer 2008. Gave it to my kid in Sept for his sr year and he loved it.
  • quaziquazi Member Posts: 5
    Once I understood that the primary latch was a slider, it was easy. Just slide the orange tab to the left or right (I was sweezing it, not a good idea!), then the second latch was disconnected by puting a scew driver in the housing, releasing the latch and connector. The rest was really easy!
  • 2000jgcltd2000jgcltd Member Posts: 3
    It’s probably been a year since I talked to you about the intermittent starting issues I was having with my Jeep. I was convinced that the problem was the result of a fuel pump failure. After purchasing a new pump, my mechanic told me there was no reason to install it because my fuel pressure and pump were fine. When I brought it in last, they claim that no error codes were being produced by the computer. Shortly after I picked it up, the check engine light came on but it continued to run fine. Occasionally, the jeep’s symptoms would return (maybe 1 in every 50-75 starts) but after waiting a few minutes, the engine would fire right up so I paid little attention to it. A few months ago I noticed an ever so slight noise coming from the engine that I had not noticed before. The best I can describe it as is a faint chirp sound almost with a hint of the sound of slight vacuum pressure. The most interesting thing about this noise is that it continues for a second after the ignition is turned off. I first noticed the sound when I parked in the garage, turned the engine off and heard it when I jumped out of the truck. After noticing it, I cranked it back up and could hear the faint chirp, ping, suck noise.
    I’ve been researching the symptoms and asking around a couple people have mentioned two sensor issues on Jeep Grand Cherokees that have been problematic: crankshaft position sensor and/or camshaft position sensor. I’ve located them on my engine but I can’t justify digging around and replacing them when I really don’t know for sure if either of them are causing the problem.
    Does my rambling bring any ideas to your mind? Any advice you can share would be much appreciated. Btw: the jeep last started 2 weeks ago. I’ve made approximately 10 attempts to crank. It turns over but acts as though there is either no fire or no fuel… I’ve read that a bad crank sensor will disable the vehicle???
    Anyway, let me know what you think. I’m guessing I should probably just take it to a jeep dealership at this point to see what the computer is saying now that it won’t start at all.
    2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
    4.7 L Power Tech
    All Wheel Drive
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    This sounds a little bit like a problem I had with my 97 jeep years ago. The problem was the starter. Here's how my mechanic explained it to me. With age the starter develops bad spots. It's like roulette. When starter motor armature is in the right place, vehicle is hard if not impossible to start. Takes a lot of current. To make it worse starter is drawing more current than normal which runs down battery. Start and drive 50 miles OK. Make 2 or 3 short trips, not OK. Solution was to replace starter. You may also want to inspect cable from + battery to starter. Clean or replace depending on what you see. Always disconnect (-) of battery before doing electrical work.
  • 2000jgcltd2000jgcltd Member Posts: 3
    There is nothing wrong with the starter. I apologize if I didn't properly describe my jeep's symptoms. The engine always turns over with gusto. When the engine doesnt' start it isn't for lack of turnover. It is lack of combustion/ignition. Either no fuel or no spark. Thanks for trying though.
  • linrlinr Member Posts: 14
    my problem is i have a 95 jgc 4x4 6 cylinder automatic. when it changes into 2nd gear it seems to takes forever to change into 3rd. i have to speed up and back off the gas and then itll go in 3rd. it has 128000 miles on it . i have had the trans filter and fluid changed. but get this when i left the service area where i had this done it changed everytime on a dime, but 5 miles later it started back to doing the same thing. i check the trans fluid all the time to make sure its up to tee. any ideas.
  • chasew03chasew03 Member Posts: 1
    So, I just knocked out a heater core replacement in my 2000 WJ Limited with the dual zone controls. While I had everything apart I replaced my blend doors and recirc door that so commonly fail. I thought I did a good job and had no issues until I turned on the heat....

    The heat comes on when I select the "cold" setting and the A/C comes on when I select the "hot" setting. I obviously hooked something up backwards or installed a door in the open position when it should have been closed or something to that effect. Other than the temps being backwards everything else works fine.

    Can anybody tell me exactly what it is that I need to change?

    I want to be able to know exactly what I'm trying to do before tearing out the dash again! It's kind of hard to do a trial and error when the dash is out. You can't exactly turn on the controls and test things.

    Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  • fdsa21212fdsa21212 Member Posts: 2
    Hi -- sorry if this is in the wrong place but Im having a problem with my Grand Cherokee (1993).

    For the past few months the 'Check Oil Level' Message has been coming up on the computer notification system over and over again. I have changed and checked the oil several times, added 2 extra quarts, and done everything I can think of to get it to stop. I am wondering, what are my options here.. Is there a way I can disconnect or remove something to atleast get it to shut off?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    try your local auto parts store--usually those guys will come out-and help you diagnose the problem!..
    -i've worked on cars for many moons,and when things went "computerised",everything got even more complex..
    where the parts guys help,is they sell a lot of parts,and common problems follow the engine-or brand of car..
    --then,add -german engineers-who do things verry well,but-at times,their tolerances aren't dealing with a twenty some-year old car !..as your-and my "dalmer/chrystler-jeep is..it drives great,but fixing it is a whole nother level of aggrevation!

    --look for a "low oil sensor"..and forget the computer.!.!.. READ THE DIPSTICK ! ! !
    --cause-if you overfill it with oil-you'll blow out the seals,and end up with a lot more trouble than you got now!..
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    hook up th throtle cables backwards??
    see if th butterfly-air intake valve is working right..
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    cap?rotor?wires?coil?--probly cap-n-rotor..
    --when it's not starting,check the basics..fuel+spark+air=fire !
  • linrlinr Member Posts: 14
    i have a 95 jgc 4x4 6cyl. auto. my problem is the front wipers only works on low and high. how do i get the intimediate to work? and if i have to replace the motor, how do i do this?
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    If it was the motor, it wouldn't work at all. The problem is most likely the control mechanism. I replaced motor for rear wiper on my jeep and problem was the control switch. You will probably have to replace the entire stem that has the wiper control.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    probly contacts in th switch,,..and that probly includes the whole multi-function lever(turn/hi beams/wiper)..
    -ever r+r'd a sterring colum switch?..
    personally,that's one of those things i'd problt just live with,as long as they still work! had many old cars where that wasn't even a option..
    --other option,learn to press in-like for wasker-but not waste fluid?!..tha'd work ! :sick:
  • karl10475karl10475 Member Posts: 1
    My son-in-law is having a problem with the car losing power for several minutes while driving. \r\nThere will be a sever lose in power and drop in RPM. Car feels like it is going to stop running. This can last for several minutes.
    This problem started in the last couple of weeks and is getting worse.
    Fuel Problem?
    Electrical Problem.
    Injector Problem?
    Karl
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    edited April 2010
    have ya done th basics.tune op,etc? even opened the hood,and checked for woodland creatures ?..
    sorry,not a good time,but lots post here-b4 they even open th hood and check oil !!!!
    it wastes time,
    --see if the car's TOO quiet..if so,clogged exhaust..climb under itwith a =-LARGE hammer-,and beat the hell out of the catylitic convetrter.!...it worked for me..
    ---and -quit "babying it !..we used to have a thing called a "tenesee tune up",where a REAL driver,would take grandpa's rolling sofa,getb it warm-then---KICK IT IN THE BUTT!!,and watch large black clouds of mcrap come out the yailpipe!..nowdays,all that collects in the converter...
    -americans but crappy gas-din't tune-cause it still starts-then wonder why "it ain't runnin??..try -maintence-- :mad:
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Do a fuel pressure check to eliminate obvious. Since you have an intermittent problem it will probably be OK. I would also replace the fuel pump relay just to make sure it isn't something simple. They get hot and over time the heat deteriates components.

    My guess is engine electrical or dirt (e.g. dirty throttle that sticks).

    I would inspect ignition wires and pull each plug and inspect. Pull the boot and not the wire! Only replace them if you see a problem, but not if they look OK. In my experience, I've not seen a tuneup solve a significant problem when plugs and wire pass physical inspection.

    But if you have a broken or fouled sparkplug that's different. When you install ignition wire you should feel a slight click when it mates with the plug electrode.

    You will probably need a trained/experienced mechanic who will know exactly what to check and how to make an intelligent guess of a solution. With this type of problem, what you end up with is trial and error.
  • will67will67 Member Posts: 2
    hey, I have the same problem about 2 years ago, I had the problem for example after running the truck for couples of stops it wont start on. In order to turn on would have to give it couples of hrs or even a day and the problem was the crankshaft position sensor its located some were by transmission dont remember.
    I hope its help,
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