Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
thanks.
It looks like the sensor (airtex 5s1730) can be purchased for around $30. I'm hoping this might be a quick and easy fix. Could I be so lucky?
Thanks for replying
--it's a royal pain to get to,as it's on the BACK of the motor,using the flywheel for the moving part of the sensor system..it's only the size of a ball point pen,but i heard where you gotta loosen the motor-to get it out..!...
--best left to someone who'se done it b4..
maybe 200- :sick: 500 in a shop..
I put the best bearing assemblies I could afford on it (Timken, purchased through Autozone @ around $80 each side), and the noise completely went away! For these hearings, you buy the whole assembly, not just wheel bearing like on a car. These assemblies are very strong.
When I removed the old bearing assemblies, they still had grease in them and still turned freely, but I could feel needle-spaced racheting on the left one when turning then slowly by hand. So that was the problem. Always replace them in pairs. Good luck with your Jeep.
I tried some tune-up things- plugs, wires, fuel filter- runs the same. This problem is not consistent, it's not every restart.
Thanx for any help--Bob
TX...Bob
lived in lala land for 8 yrs,and-no-NOBODY will sell you used cat converters..it's illegal,plus,the platinum in those makes th resale value utrageous..
my best sugestion..
first,is th exhaust on th car> if they're off,take a soft-brass HAMMER,and knock th crap out of them.. i found a old ford aerostar i got way cheap..would start,but when you'd try to accelerate-even in park,it'd die.. went to the exhaust pipe,and listened--it was TOO quiet.. figured it was kinda like "th bananna in th tailpipe" syndrome,where in fact-=like most american drivers-they "baby" their cars,and seldom clear out th exhaust-by "kicking it in th butt"every now and then..add to that,the cheap CRAP they sell us for gasoline,and the converter gets plugged..out of shear desperation,i climbed under it,and took my 28/oz framing hammer-and tried my best to knock a hole in th converter...th metal(after th shield came off),was so soft,it wouldn't make a hole..ten minutes of really hitting it,i gave up-for then..just to try it,went and started it up..a HUMONGUS cloud of coal black smoke came out th tailpipe,and that van never ran better!!...i did give it a new o2 sensor,but drove that truck till th wheels fell off-for over five yerars !
you might want to try knocking th crap loose,maybe put a new muffler,as those are only $50 buks or so,some new o2 sensors,and give THAT a try ! :lemon:
These are the things I've already checked out.
-Jump started the jeep with no luck
-Checked the starter fuse
-I've also bridged the starter with a screwdriver which worked for a day but since then I've tried doing the same thing but it doesn't work.
Any help would be great. Oh yea ever since I've had the jeep there are times that I have to push the gear shift in park a little more and it would start up right away, but that won't work either.
I don't know what kind of reception you are going to get if you ask them just to install your new cats
When you turn key to start it, give it at least 5 secs to start before you release key.
Basically there's no reason to put your foot on the gas until the engine has started, you put it in drive, and you're ready to move forward.
You might try cleaning the throttle and the intake manifold.
The intake at the head should have a dry, black, carbon deposit if it is dirty. It should not be wet.
Get a Haynes manual and follow their procedures.
I have a Jeep with 178K, Ford Escape 120K, and Toyota pickup with 120K. I never had a problem that required replacement of the fuel injectors.
I have had starting problems where the starter motor was not completely dead, but it was not functioning properly. Replacing a starter is one of the easier DIY jobs.
My tension adjustment bolt is attached to the power steering bracket. It is a very long bolt mounted at a 45 deg angle relative to the pump (/). You have to loosen the pump mounting bolts and then loosen or tighthen the tension bolt to adjust belt tension. If you can't get the belt off I suggest you look at removing the power steering pump. I know that will work because I had to remove pwr steer pump to work on engine.
The site has access to the inventory of thousands of salvage yards across North America. It shows you a list of what's available including the price, condition and location. Many of the vendors even offer a warranty on the parts they sell....and a return policy.
I've had great luck finding parts for my '95 JGC Laredo 4.0L and my '06 Mazda3!
It has ben sold, safe and reliable.
I enter this information because had I actually believed the initial posts I would have believed it was a terrible vehicle. Complaints about modern autos seem to come from very poor drivers getting attention by complaining. Is that the current deal?
---one critique would be where we,as owners,could gain acess to the software to our own vehickles-bought and paid for-,but dalmer/chrystler still wants you to bring it to them-because they are the ONLY ones with the software,and will NOT release it to anyone but their service dept's!
--the 5.7 is STILL rated as THE FASTEST S.U.V EVER BUILT!.!!
--my little 5.2 isn't that far behind.. the largest problem is mileage..my trip comp rates my n.p.g at everything from only 7 in town,to 14 on the freeway..that's only running marathon premium,as with it's age,it doesn't loke cheap gas--AT ALL! ! !
-it won't start-with the remote start,sometimes taking three cycles to fire up and run-especially with -20f..temps..also,i NEVER use that 5-w-anything oil ...it's too thin!
10-w 30 AT LEAST..if you want the engine to last over 100k..so many cars in the paper read "nice car-needs engine"..part of "planned obsolesence",where they want to sell you a new one..it's wasteful,and fills up our landfills..plus--IT'S A JEEP!! it climbs like a billygoat,hugs the road better than a mustang,if it only got better mileage?!
i have a tourk wrench in my jeep and when doing anything that involves loosing the wheel nuts i tighten them my self with my wrench took care of the shaking problem
Would replacing the wrong fluids in the diff cause damage? replacing 70/140 with 70/90 ?
Need a bit of advice ... I took my vehicle in to one of these quick lube places ... they had recommended changing the fluids in the front and rear diffs. I was not experiencing any issues with the vehicle but since the fluids as far as I know were not changed ... I ok'd the work.
Shortly there after I started hearing a grinding noise coming from the rear ... Great I just changed the fluids now a noise ... took it into a shop... told him I just had the fluids changed ... so he wrote off the diffs and said it sounds like the wheel bearings ... replaced the wheel bearings .
The noise still there ... this is when i start looking into what was replaced in the vehicle ... the shop has admitted replacing the fluids with the wrong grade ... however the are not accepting that the wrong fluids caused damage.
How do I check the levels for my transmission oil on my grand cherokee 2003 crd, I cant find the dipstick??
Any ideas very much appreciated
Thanks
I have purchased a 2003 grand cherokee crd but dont have the instruciton manual for the sat nav, does anyone know where i can get hold of a copy?
thanks
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
My JGC just has a terrible smell coming through the vents. Where do I start to get rid of it. Air freshener doesn't help. I can't use the heating/cooling system b/c its so bad.
I've been considering purchasing a Jeep Grand Cherokee.
I was surprised to see the amount of posts.
How many people would recommend the purchase, or stay away ?