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Comments
-your first idea-the back glass security switch-witch i simply unplugged-seems to have been the problem!..
-the fresh battery-witch they upgraded to a larger cold crank-700,(for$26)seems to have helped too..maybe thats what i get for tryin to put a econo-battery in sumpthin with this mutch electrical junk on it..-th old one was a 550..
--so far,th alarm hasn't gone off-for no reason,bet that glass sensor was it,as i've seen more than one other gcl owner-embarrased when their jeeep is screaming it's head off in the parking lot.!..i might leave them a note-and let them know what WE figured out,might help them out?!
--if you unplug those fuses,how mutch stuff won't work? sounds like th trip comp,mebee even the instrument cluster,and th remote unlock..and probably.with my luck-cruise control..it keeps me from getting tickets,but i could live without th trip computer..it's only function seems to be is reminding me how mutch of a gas pig my 5.2 awd is..-at between 11 to 15 mpg..
anyhoo,many thanks for your info...time will tell if pulling the glass sensor wire addressed the problem,as i left th sensor on the main hatch,and the button release doesn't work unless th truck is unlocked,so it 's still reasonably secure..
--thanks! :shades:
I found oil on spark Plug No.1 when I changed spark plugs for my car jeep grand Cherokee Lerado 2008 3.7L, after I installed the new set, I lost the engine power and the rpm go down into 0.5 rpm, I made computer check I found that coils no 1, 2 , 4 not working well and the air temp. sensor not working , I changed all, then I discovered that I lost about 1 kg from engine oil, please this lost related to the inactive spark plug or there is no relation between the lack of oil and the inactive plug, if there is no relation is that refer to problem in my engine , it start burning oil, ( there is now white smoke get out from exhaust, and when I opened the splay oil cover on the top of motor while the engine work also no smoke get out from this gap) please I need your immediate help
:sick: :confuse:
Thanks & Best Regards
Kamil
-you might get by with some "marvel mystery oil",,some in th crankcase,and some in th gas tank-for upper cyl lube..might free up a stuck ring?!..good luck!
My 97 jeep had all kinds of leaks and sat all summer. I just got it fixed and at 180K engine still runs with original fuel pump and injectors; not smooth, but it runs. 4.0L I6.
gotta listen,and see if it's TOO quiet..plugged exaust?
:lemon:
So , now I have no other recourse but to notify the National Traffic Safety Board about my problem as they seem to be taking care of Toyotas problem with the surging. Whis me luck all and Merry Christmas to all .
--i took the headlight switch apart,and found that most of the solder connections had a crack in them.. ire-soldered them,and saved myself the $150 bucks autozone wanted for one with the fog light switch in it,but i've got more time than money..
hope this helps!
I need help making a repair decision.
2001 Cherokee SE 115 K miles 4 door auto 4 x4
No heat/ No AC
The serpentine belt broke along with the compressor. (started with loud squeel)
Total Repair Bill for the belt and comepressor is $675
I still will not have heat
Can not fix myself and will have to pay a mechanic for all repairs
Offered $800 for it Should I take it the $800 or dump money into it and try to sell for a profit?
Condition is Fair and have had problems in past. Tired of dumping money into it
Any advice appreciated. :sick:
Thanks!
--if your mecanic's gonna work on the a/c,then he should b able ta see whatsvwrong with heat-usually the valve that shuts off the hot water,when you turn on the a/c..if u can find it(by th heater core-external to heater box,inline heater hose valve)turn it on in winter,close it in summer shop around,and seee what other mecanics want-but your estimaste ain't bad..
cars today got LOTS of crap to go wrong,so-learn to fix it yourself,or pay th piper!?!
Firsr issue is the heater is intermittingly shutting off.. There is still power to the display but it will shut off the blower while im driving pretty frequently now.
Second I am getting poor air flow out of the vents.. The air is hot however just not flowing out much.. The center vents are kinda blowing out the air but the two vents by the doors is almost no air blowing out..
Im pretty sure the blend doors are good as the air not cold and when I move the dials between driver and passenger the air does change temperature also with no fault codes.
I did have the heater core replaced before the winter and the guy said the blend doors looked fine.. I dont want to have to pull the dash out again as it was a giant pain in the a**.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem would be? Better yet how to fix these problems..
Thanks
Greg
Hope it helps...
It will be very helpful to create a very long clip lead to go from the meter (-) to the battery(-). You can't measure without a good ground. Then you will have to observe it to see if the control is malfunctioning or the blower is malfunctioning. The only alternative is to guess. I learned this the hard way. I once replaced rear wiper motor on my jeep and it wasn't the problem at all. It was the switch. It's not easy, but it can be done.
There may be an easier way, but this is how I would get started.
I had a shop I trusted check a van I owned and they did not find any leaking around the normal places...hoses etc.. But they did say they saw evidence of a leak around the intake manifold where the head and water gaskets are located. They said you could spend a ton of money and pull the head and replace the gasket or get a good sealer. I bought the best sealer I could find that had a ton of cooper in it and other stuff. It worked like a champ and there is no more leak. The van is a '93 and runs great. Not worth the expense to pull it apart when a simple bottle of stuff works. But for a slow leak on a hose or bad cap the fix is obvious...replace it.
My two cents worth.
Premium gas is a necessary evil but a small price to pay for spanking teenagers in their "hot rods". 0-100 takes 16 seconds.This thing is wicked fast!
I just hope all the major repairs I read here about are already done!
We also have a 94 Grand Laredo with 144K,runs like a champ but much noisier than the 98 LTD.
VERY pleased with the LTD so far.
The morning of the 26th, my mom was getting ready to take it on a road trip and low and behold, the Jeep started but was disaplying all kinds of warning lights/indicators (dummy lamps). Come to find out after doing a little diagnostic work myself, the battery was dead because the alternator was not charging the battery. I determined the alternator was not charging the battery by staring the Jeep (after a jump start) and then disconnecting the negative battery cable. If the Jeep kept running, the alternator was charging. If the Jeep died, the alternator was not charging. So I ended up replacing the alternator and the battery and performed the same test and this time the Jeep kept running after disconnecting the negative battery cable and all lights indicators were off as I suspected they would be.
The morning of the 26th, it was taken on a 400 mile road trip from Dallas to Ark with no issues. 2 days later on the 28th while at a cruising speed of about 40mph (cruise control not used for the term cruising), it displayed the very same behavior. It happened so fast, I didn't notice if any dummy lights, i.e. "Check Engine" light came on or not.
I inquired to some certified Jeep mechanics and from what I have told them (same I just told here in this post), "quote"
There is just no way for any tech to give a 100% answer without getting more data history etc.. I can only give my thoughts and things to check. Intermittant problems in today’s vehicles can be very hard to find till it acts up more often.
I am thinking the clue may be the charging system. What many people do not know is the charging system is 100% controlled by the cars computer. The alternator in yours does NOT have an internal regulator like older models. The regulator is in the computer. This means, it is VERY rare for and alternator to fail on your Jeep and more common it is the computer.
I'm more lead to believe its a charging issue. I think by doing battery and alternator you reset the computer and.. at some point the charging will drop again and when it does, it kind of flips out all the other sensors and computer controls and the truck will do weird things.
Now.. if the check engine light has or does come on, you go to parts store, get free code scan and they will tell you the trouble code and what it means. In the meantime, I would travel with volt meter and if acts up again, quickly check what charging is. It MUST be between 13.5-14.8 volts. No higher, no lower.
Yes.. it is very possible you have failing computer (PCm) We have replaced many for very similar issues.
I bought an engine from a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I put my old flywheel and cam position sensor on this motor. I have it running but can't get the timing right...Any thoughts?