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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

1919294969799

Comments

  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    edited December 2010
    You have identified the components that are drawing the battery down. Now you have to figure out what is keeping them turned on when they are suppose to turn off. You will need a wiring diagram that shows what is connected to BCM or display. Try alldatadiy.com. Look first at electrical inputs triggered by mechanical switches. The problem is you have to remove interior panels to get at the switches so you can probe the wires with your test meter. In my case, the jeep was so old it was "fix it or tow it" plus I could take it offline for a while because I had another car. If your jeep is fairly new you may want to take it to the dealer. They have special tools where they can probe the body control module using the OBD diagnostic port. Doing this yourself will be time consuming. In my case I work at a desk all day and I sort of turned working in the garage to a hobby. But the $ savings are a plus.
  • diamondback16diamondback16 Member Posts: 2
    Wrong Part - I'm trying to find a replacement upper radiator hose for a 98 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 2.5L 4 cycl. engine, 2 WD. I cannot find one anywhere and have ordered the part 4 times and each time get the wrong part. Advance, Auto Zone, and NAPA have all tried ordering the part and when it comes in it's the wrong one. Their computer shows two different part numbers both wrong. Tried going to the dealership and they also showed two different parts but no picture so they didn't know if it was right but it cost $150. Has anyone else had this problem or does anyone know the right part number.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    many thanks for your sugestions..
    -your first idea-the back glass security switch-witch i simply unplugged-seems to have been the problem!..
    -the fresh battery-witch they upgraded to a larger cold crank-700,(for$26)seems to have helped too..maybe thats what i get for tryin to put a econo-battery in sumpthin with this mutch electrical junk on it..-th old one was a 550..
    --so far,th alarm hasn't gone off-for no reason,bet that glass sensor was it,as i've seen more than one other gcl owner-embarrased when their jeeep is screaming it's head off in the parking lot.!..i might leave them a note-and let them know what WE figured out,might help them out?!
    --if you unplug those fuses,how mutch stuff won't work? sounds like th trip comp,mebee even the instrument cluster,and th remote unlock..and probably.with my luck-cruise control..it keeps me from getting tickets,but i could live without th trip computer..it's only function seems to be is reminding me how mutch of a gas pig my 5.2 awd is..-at between 11 to 15 mpg..

    anyhoo,many thanks for your info...time will tell if pulling the glass sensor wire addressed the problem,as i left th sensor on the main hatch,and the button release doesn't work unless th truck is unlocked,so it 's still reasonably secure..
    --thanks! :shades:
  • jervjerv Member Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    I have the same issue with my 2001 grand cherokee, did u ever find the answer?
  • kemokomkemokom Member Posts: 1
    Dear friends
    I found oil on spark Plug No.1 when I changed spark plugs for my car jeep grand Cherokee Lerado 2008 3.7L, after I installed the new set, I lost the engine power and the rpm go down into 0.5 rpm, I made computer check I found that coils no 1, 2 , 4 not working well and the air temp. sensor not working , I changed all, then I discovered that I lost about 1 kg from engine oil, please this lost related to the inactive spark plug or there is no relation between the lack of oil and the inactive plug, if there is no relation is that refer to problem in my engine , it start burning oil, ( there is now white smoke get out from exhaust, and when I opened the splay oil cover on the top of motor while the engine work also no smoke get out from this gap) please I need your immediate help
    :cry: :sick: :confuse:
    Thanks & Best Regards
    Kamil
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    how many miles? first step would be a compression test.. sounds like the oil rings on the oiston are worn,or a broken ring might've scratched the wall of the cylinder..
    -you might get by with some "marvel mystery oil",,some in th crankcase,and some in th gas tank-for upper cyl lube..might free up a stuck ring?!..good luck!
  • jafn88jafn88 Member Posts: 1
    My heater, turn lights, backing lights stop working I checked the fuse, and found that it had blown, I replaced the fuse and started my Jeep, tested the heater and turn lights, everything worked fine, but once I put it on gear it blew the fuse. I replaced the fuse again, and it blows it everytime I put in gear. I believe I have a ground problem, but don't know where to check.
  • linrlinr Member Posts: 14
    95 jeep gc driver side low beam went out still had high beam replaced bulb worked fine. week later passenger side low beam went out still had high beam. replaced bulb worked fine. week later driver side low beam went out still had high beam. so now i have 1 low beam and both high beams. could anyone know what the problem is . thank you.rked fine
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I just replaced the head lights on my 97 JGC. Bulb, connectors, and wiring are very straightforward. First, unless you a very careful you can damage the wiring/connector when you remove it so carefully inspect the connector. You may have compromised it, bulb stops working, you replace bulb, but you temporarily fix the problem when you put connector back. Look at where wire goes into back of connector. Make sure it doesn't look like it may have been pulled out some or if insulation looks damaged. Next, try a high quality OEM type bulb. Next, given age of vehicle I would replace the light switch. Mulfifunction switches can fail in funny ways. After that, it will probably be easier to rewire it using splices instead of trying to find the fault. My biggest mistakes in the garage have been cases where I broke one thing while I was trying to fix someting else.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Try a fuse with 5A more rating. You may have an aging component that is drawing more current than what it was originally designed for. Find out exactly what "heater" components are on this circuit and then disconnect them. If it doesn't blow you know where the problem is. Probably a blower motor or a switch. I'd be stunned if your backing lights and turn lights were blowing a fuse. One other possibility is the Park,Neutral,Safety switch if your model uses one to contol back up lights. The switch is screwed into the transmission. My vehicle is 97 so I don't know about the new designs.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    I am redoing front suspension on my 97 JGC. A circular rubber pad called the jounce bumper sits inside the coil spring. Looks like it softens the blow if the suspension drops so hard that the shocks can't stop downard travel completely. Mine is all crumbly and rotted. Can't find any info about removal and installation. Looks like there is a metail fasterner in the center of it, but no place to put a screw driver and it doesn't look like a hex bolt. Please advise. Thanks in advance
  • bigtbrand85bigtbrand85 Member Posts: 1
    My Jeep will only start if I give it gas. Once I let off the gas, it shuts off. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    edited December 2010
    First, measure your fuel pressure. Odds are its OK, but you never know. It does run so you know you are getting spark. The air-fuel ratio must be 14.7 to 1 or no go. My educated guess is that somehow you are leaking air into engine that computer does not know about. Faulty emission control, manifold gasket. etc. When you put your foot on the gas, the injectors inject more fuel and a small leak isn't big enough to make it stall. But at idle you are only running 600 rpm. Small air leaks make the mixture too lean. Another possibility is something wrong at the throttle: cable, throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, etc. I guess I would check the throttle first. Clean it thoroughly if it looks dirty.

    My 97 jeep had all kinds of leaks and sat all summer. I just got it fixed and at 180K engine still runs with original fuel pump and injectors; not smooth, but it runs. 4.0L I6.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    plugged catylitic converter..had a v6 ford van that started,but would die when put in gear,or accelerating even in neutral.. out of frustration,hammered th converter,a huge cloud of black crap cameout,then it ran great!
    gotta listen,and see if it's TOO quiet..plugged exaust?
    :lemon:
  • taffy3taffy3 Member Posts: 26
    On the side of the air intake and linked to the throttle butterflies, there is a variable resistor that controls the flow of fuel to the injectors. It may be cracked or the track may be worn away with use causing a disconnect. The circuit is complete at full throttle. Check voltages at this device, from the manual of your model.
  • howie56howie56 Member Posts: 21
    Lately I have let both my Son and his wife drive my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I'm getting the same response from them on the surging . . . . Daughter-in-law saw what I meant that when she drove my Jeep and stepped on the gas , the vehicle would jump forward rapidly and she said to me that now she believed me when I was driving and it would happen to me she thought I was just speeding off rapidly . I have brought the vehicle back to Jeep and told them about what happens and they said they would talk to the engineer when he came to the shop . . . in other words , nothing will be done .
    So , now I have no other recourse but to notify the National Traffic Safety Board about my problem as they seem to be taking care of Toyotas problem with the surging. Whis me luck all and Merry Christmas to all . :)
  • stlstevestlsteve Member Posts: 1
    The airbag light came on today as I was driving down the road. Had the same issue with a Grand Caravan several years ago, only difference, horn also quit working on mini van. Turned out to be the clock spring in the steering column. Horn still working on Jeep. Any ideas as to what could be the problem.
  • ihatemyjeep1ihatemyjeep1 Member Posts: 3
    If I remember correctly, it's some sort of spring in the steering column area that's horribly difficult to get to and costs about $600 to repair.
  • agallmanagallman Member Posts: 6
    What did you ever find out about the high pitched sound on your Jeep? I have the same issue and haven't been able to find a solution posted anywhere. Thanks.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    when i first got my -98 gcl,5.2,awd, the headlights would blink -kinda like the alarm was tripped,but engine was running.. since then, i've found there seems to be a sensor in th headlight circut,because it did that flasing thing when i needed a headlight..
    --i took the headlight switch apart,and found that most of the solder connections had a crack in them.. ire-soldered them,and saved myself the $150 bucks autozone wanted for one with the fog light switch in it,but i've got more time than money..
    hope this helps! :blush:
  • solardunrightsolardunright Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 JGC. V8 limited. Turn signals started intermittently not working. Replaced flasher on fuse panel, and turn signals worked fine. One problem. With new flasher, when signals or hazards are not on, new flasher makes a buzzing noise. A mechanic said it was a short in the multi purpose switch in the column. Replaced it, same result. Jeep dealer told me its got to be a short somewhere. All bulbs work, checked wiring to bulb sockets, could not see a problem, visually checked wire harnesses and bundles between column and fuse panel for breaks or pinches, none detected. Has anyone seen this before? If it is a short, how do you find it?
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Take flasher out. If buzz goes away buzz must be due to flasher OR due to the current it is drawing. Use ammeter to measure current while flasher plugged in. You will need jumper leads. Current measured is I. Measure open circuit voltage (should be about 12-14 volts). Call this V. Go to radio shack and buy a resistor, R, where R = V/I. Connect resistor. If you get buzz it's in the car. If not, the buzz was in the flasher. Based on what you said, I'm 99% sure it's the flasher. It may be easier to try another flasher. MAKE SURE IT'S A DIFFERENT BRAND.
  • leasewizardleasewizard Member Posts: 17
    Hello,

    I need help making a repair decision.

    2001 Cherokee SE 115 K miles 4 door auto 4 x4

    No heat/ No AC

    The serpentine belt broke along with the compressor. (started with loud squeel)

    Total Repair Bill for the belt and comepressor is $675

    I still will not have heat

    Can not fix myself and will have to pay a mechanic for all repairs

    Offered $800 for it Should I take it the $800 or dump money into it and try to sell for a profit?

    Condition is Fair and have had problems in past. Tired of dumping money into it

    Any advice appreciated. :sick:

    Thanks!
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    Your heat problem is due to either a problem with a vacuum motor or a vacuum switch that moves the doors in the vent system. Should be $200 max to fix that. Coolant always flows thru the heater core so there's nothing wrong under the hood, unless core got plugged with debris (highly unlikely). If the paint is bad and/or interior ripped I would sell it, but $800 is too low if engine & trans OK. I think you could sell it for more on ebay unless it's all dented up. I have a 97 Jeep with 180K, the paint is starting to get crow's feet, but engine and trans are still good. Your miles is not too high. In TN where I live, decent vehicle costs $8-10K so sales tax alone is $1000!!
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    :cry: agree with other poster,lots of factors--mainly-what could you replace it with for that kinda money?..engine/tranz? tirz?body and paint are usually th last thing i worry about-that slick paint don't get you there!
    --if your mecanic's gonna work on the a/c,then he should b able ta see whatsvwrong with heat-usually the valve that shuts off the hot water,when you turn on the a/c..if u can find it(by th heater core-external to heater box,inline heater hose valve)turn it on in winter,close it in summer shop around,and seee what other mecanics want-but your estimaste ain't bad..
    cars today got LOTS of crap to go wrong,so-learn to fix it yourself,or pay th piper!?!
  • jeepgrand01jeepgrand01 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee Limited with a couple of heater issues. I did the test to check the computer and got no codes. It just had 00 and when i kept turning the know it just counted up to 99. (not sure if its suppose to do that or not.)

    Firsr issue is the heater is intermittingly shutting off.. There is still power to the display but it will shut off the blower while im driving pretty frequently now.

    Second I am getting poor air flow out of the vents.. The air is hot however just not flowing out much.. The center vents are kinda blowing out the air but the two vents by the doors is almost no air blowing out..

    Im pretty sure the blend doors are good as the air not cold and when I move the dials between driver and passenger the air does change temperature also with no fault codes.

    I did have the heater core replaced before the winter and the guy said the blend doors looked fine.. I dont want to have to pull the dash out again as it was a giant pain in the a**.

    Does anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem would be? Better yet how to fix these problems..

    Thanks

    Greg
  • rlipcz01rlipcz01 Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2003 JGC and took it to the "Dealer" and they replaced a sensor that said was the problem...Wasn't though. Same problem, had it taken to repair shop and they told us the front control panel shorts out. Replaced it and works fine.. It costs $120, but could get one at a junk yard if you can find a JGC.
    Hope it helps...
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    You will have to get a wiring diagram and find the control wire to the blower motor, i.e. the one that turns it on or off. Then, you will have to splice this wire so you can connect a voltmeter to it. You can do the splice with a crimp connector tool. If you are lucky, you may be able to back probe the wire so you don't have to make a splice.

    It will be very helpful to create a very long clip lead to go from the meter (-) to the battery(-). You can't measure without a good ground. Then you will have to observe it to see if the control is malfunctioning or the blower is malfunctioning. The only alternative is to guess. I learned this the hard way. I once replaced rear wiper motor on my jeep and it wasn't the problem at all. It was the switch. It's not easy, but it can be done.

    There may be an easier way, but this is how I would get started.
  • alfonse2269alfonse2269 Member Posts: 2
    2005 Jeep GC heat/AC blower only works on high spped....switch or blower issue ???? fuses??
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    blower resister
  • joe3djoe3d Member Posts: 21
    Hello all, I have a random noise, close to a thumping noise I hear towards the back of my2005 JGC. Here are the conditions: It comes and goes while driving. Most times for only a minute or two at a time. I could have my foot on the gas driving straight and it does not affect the way the car drives or stops. I checked underneath by the tires and axle but didn't see anything loose. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You, Joe D
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    If you live in or near DC and have had fuel spitback issues with your car, please email pr@edmunds.com before Monday, February 28, 2011 to be interviewed by a reporter. Please include your daytime contact information and the year, make and model of your car.
  • schwab415schwab415 Member Posts: 5
    My Jeep is sprouting a radiator leak and needs water every week to week and a half. Can anyone give me some guidance on what I should do? Should I have checked by a mechanic? Do i purchase a new one? Used??? Please advise if you've had this issue...Thx!
  • topat46topat46 Member Posts: 20
    Check your radiator cap. Change it if you are not sure of the location of the leak.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    You need to buy or borrow a pressure tester that screws onto the radiator. Let it cool off. Remove radiator cap. Screw the pressure tester. It has a manual pump and a gauge. Pump up pressure to 15 psi and come back in 1 hour. If pressure is still on 15 cooling system is OK. If it's below 15 get your flashlight and look for leaks. Normally there will be a small puddle somewhere on the floor. Most pressure test kits come with an adapter so you can pressure test the radiator cap. If pressure won't hold but you can't find a leak, the leak is most likely internal to the engine. Probably a head gasket. Where I live you can borrow a pressure tester from Autozone stores. You may have to buy an adapter so it will fit your radiator. Without doing a pressure test you are just guessing at the solution.
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    I had a similar problem and even though it is a bit dangerous I looked at my radiator after a trip and first I squeezed the upper radiator hose and found that instead of it being hard and full of pressure it was easy to squeeze which is a sign that the system lost the pressure some where. I then used a rag and attempted to remove the radiator cap....most caps have a safety position where you can turn the cap to a point but then to completely remove it you have to push down. If fluid trys to gush out when you start to turn the cap then there is pressure. If not then there is a leak and in my case I saw a small amount of liquid around the top edges of the radiator which told me something close to the top was leaking.....I bought a new cap...$12 and all of those things I described changed...the hose was hard and if I attempted to move the cap, hot water wanted to escape....be careful and always use a rag as it can burn. The pressure tester describe earlier is the best way if you can get one for free. Many Radiator shops will do the test but beware as they might just want business if you know what I mean.
    I had a shop I trusted check a van I owned and they did not find any leaking around the normal places...hoses etc.. But they did say they saw evidence of a leak around the intake manifold where the head and water gaskets are located. They said you could spend a ton of money and pull the head and replace the gasket or get a good sealer. I bought the best sealer I could find that had a ton of cooper in it and other stuff. It worked like a champ and there is no more leak. The van is a '93 and runs great. Not worth the expense to pull it apart when a simple bottle of stuff works. But for a slow leak on a hose or bad cap the fix is obvious...replace it.
    My two cents worth.
  • schwab415schwab415 Member Posts: 5
    I do seem to have lots of pressure when attempting to remove the cap after running and I have noticed my radiator reserve keeps running out of liquid. The leak seems to be running down the passenger side of the radiator half way up the side where the reserve overflow tube is located at the bottom. I have purchased a new radiator cap recently, but it does not fit as snug as I thought it should? Should I try a new one to start???
  • jmsmith123jmsmith123 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem just in the last 6 months my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited was doing the same thing and the ticking noise was actually the auto shutdown relay and the computer needed to be replaced even after it was reset not saying this is 100 percent your issue just going from experience.
  • jmsmith123jmsmith123 Member Posts: 2
    I just had the computer alternator and battery replaced in my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V8 4.2 MFI motor. Now i am hearing a noise that is between a chattering lifter and exhaust leak when i am driving not sitting still it just started on my way home from work any ideas.
  • princeofpeaceprinceofpeace Member Posts: 1
    We just bought this Jeep as a second car. 179k on it. Previous owner just did a full tune up with tri-fire plugs,upgrade wires,cap and rotor. This sounds and runs like new.
    Premium gas is a necessary evil but a small price to pay for spanking teenagers in their "hot rods". 0-100 takes 16 seconds.This thing is wicked fast!
    I just hope all the major repairs I read here about are already done!
    We also have a 94 Grand Laredo with 144K,runs like a champ but much noisier than the 98 LTD.
    VERY pleased with the LTD so far.
  • madhazemadhaze Member Posts: 2
    Did you get your stalling issue solved? I have the same issue.
  • zronzzronz Member Posts: 4
    I too am experiencing this surging behavior. On Feb 24th, 2011 I bought a 2005 Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7L. with 66K miles and drove it home (90 miles) the same day from the dealer with no problems. That same evening my brother was riding with my mom in the Jeep (mom driving), and while excelerating on an entrance ramp to get on the hi-way, the Jeep started displaying a violent engine surge (stopping and starting/jerking) about 4 times in a matter of seconds before it stopped. Thought it was bad gas being that it only had 1/8 of tank so I filled it up with 89 octane plus some RXP in the tank.

    The morning of the 26th, my mom was getting ready to take it on a road trip and low and behold, the Jeep started but was disaplying all kinds of warning lights/indicators (dummy lamps). Come to find out after doing a little diagnostic work myself, the battery was dead because the alternator was not charging the battery. I determined the alternator was not charging the battery by staring the Jeep (after a jump start) and then disconnecting the negative battery cable. If the Jeep kept running, the alternator was charging. If the Jeep died, the alternator was not charging. So I ended up replacing the alternator and the battery and performed the same test and this time the Jeep kept running after disconnecting the negative battery cable and all lights indicators were off as I suspected they would be.

    The morning of the 26th, it was taken on a 400 mile road trip from Dallas to Ark with no issues. 2 days later on the 28th while at a cruising speed of about 40mph (cruise control not used for the term cruising), it displayed the very same behavior. It happened so fast, I didn't notice if any dummy lights, i.e. "Check Engine" light came on or not.

    I inquired to some certified Jeep mechanics and from what I have told them (same I just told here in this post), "quote"

    There is just no way for any tech to give a 100% answer without getting more data history etc.. I can only give my thoughts and things to check. Intermittant problems in today’s vehicles can be very hard to find till it acts up more often.
    I am thinking the clue may be the charging system. What many people do not know is the charging system is 100% controlled by the cars computer. The alternator in yours does NOT have an internal regulator like older models. The regulator is in the computer. This means, it is VERY rare for and alternator to fail on your Jeep and more common it is the computer.

    I'm more lead to believe its a charging issue. I think by doing battery and alternator you reset the computer and.. at some point the charging will drop again and when it does, it kind of flips out all the other sensors and computer controls and the truck will do weird things.

    Now.. if the check engine light has or does come on, you go to parts store, get free code scan and they will tell you the trouble code and what it means. In the meantime, I would travel with volt meter and if acts up again, quickly check what charging is. It MUST be between 13.5-14.8 volts. No higher, no lower.
    Yes.. it is very possible you have failing computer (PCm) We have replaced many for very similar issues.
  • zronzzronz Member Posts: 4
    The morning of the 26th, it was taken on a 400 mile road trip from Dallas to Ark with no issues was supposed to say "The morning of the 27th, not the 26th..... Sorry about that typo....
  • howie56howie56 Member Posts: 21
    I also have a 2005 JGC with a 5.7 HEMI and I bought this vehicle when it was brand new off the showroom floor and for the first 3000 miles I had no problems but shortly after hitting 3000 miles my jeep started surging and I have brought it into the garage many time and it has been verified by the shop personal and even the engineers looked at it but they said that it was a "NORMAL" occurence ( B S ) and I also get some sudden surging when taking off from a intersection but as of yet , nothing has been or probably won't be done about it . :mad: :lemon:
  • metzler80metzler80 Member Posts: 1
    I own an 05 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4. I also had what seems to be an identical problem a few years back. Sudden and random jerking and accelerating. It was under a full warranty and the dealer resolved the issue. The say...they replaced crank position sensor & did a "flash" update power control module. The invoice says part 56028815-AA. I hope this is of some help.
  • zronzzronz Member Posts: 4
    Thanks metzler80. That's insight I didn't have before. I'll make note of what you said. We haven't taken it to the dealer just yet. Still gathering information and my Jeep is under full warranty to at this time. Were there any trouble codes that helped identify your specific problem indicating the need to replace the crank position sensor and to flash the PCM?
  • ron_pitmanron_pitman Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, the engine block was destroyed by an exploding piston...:(
    I bought an engine from a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I put my old flywheel and cam position sensor on this motor. I have it running but can't get the timing right...Any thoughts?
  • taz060171taz060171 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4WD 5.2l. Lately, I have noticed the RPM surges when it is up to speed on the highway. However, it shifts fine from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, etc. and all the gears work, even reverse, and does not seem to be slipping or dragging. It will also drop to 0 even though it is running at approx 2k. Any ideas?
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    In my 97 Jeep shop manual I see only 1 potential match: MOVES in 2nd or 3rd abruptly downshifts to low: 1. Valve body malfunction 2. Governor valve sticking
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