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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • walegzywalegzy Member Posts: 1
    I bought a used 94 GCJ recently 27K milage, but don't know much about the previous history. The engine sounds great and drives well on low speed. But the problem is that it cuts off after long period of driving (say about an hour drive) and keeps doing that until it cools off. When it decelerates and cuts off, it does not take long to start anyway (say 1-2 minutes). I have read post here about this problem in my little research but can't get the right answer to the problem:

    "by ponygirl1 Sep 15, 2006 (6:22 pm)

    Replying to: vicgonzales (Sep 08, 2006 9:37 am)

    I have posted a comment a long time ago about my jeep having issues with cutting out while driving or just not wanting to start. ... The jeep only does it when gets too hot outside and driving for an extended period of time. ...

    Since my Jeep has this similar problem. I hope somebody can assist in proferring the right solution.
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    I have a 2004 Grand Cherokee and it had the same problem. Two years after I bought the car (new) they breplaced the steering column under warranty. Never had the problem occur again and I still have the car. Very happy with this car.
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    I have a 2004 Grand Cherokee with 4.7 liter V8. Love the car, no issues with performance, however, noticed the owners manual calls for a spark plug replacement at 30K miles. At 38K, decided to replace plugs myself. The OEM plugs are NOT platinum. Went to Advanced and bought Champion Platinum for less than $3 each. Now the car mileage improved and I don't need to do this replacement ever again. Why would Chrysler not use platinum plugs in this engine? Stupid cost saving move I guess. Car runs great,
  • zronzzronz Member Posts: 4
    Update on my specific issue with my 05 JGC 5.7. I've waited a month to post because I wanted to see if the issue was actually resolved or not and it appears to be solved. With all the bucking and jerking that it was doing, and all of the possible root causes it could have been (such as the ECM, etc), it turned out that the crank shaft sensor was going bad according to the diagnostics report from the dealership. They replaced it under warranty and it seems to have done the trick. I am super happy with the purchase of this Jeep! Well worth the $$$ I paid.
  • strokeoluck2strokeoluck2 Member Posts: 91
    Just purchased a 2011 JGC Overland. I absolutely love the vehicle, well worth the $. However, I have never owned a Jeep before. Previously we had an Acura TL and a Honda Pilot - never an issue with either until we sold at around 100k miles. I just read today that the Jeep and Chrysler brand ranked near the bottom in latest quality reports. (how is that possible if they share MB platforms?!)

    Anyway, I passed on buying the extended warranty from the dealer, but now wondering if I should invest in one. We usually put about 100k miles on our cars. I would be concerned with any engine/tranny issues, and also concerned about all the electronics/nav/radio stuff.

    Thoughts on whether a warranty is worth it? If so, where do I buy a reputable warranty? Thanks.
  • woowoowootywoowoowooty Member Posts: 12
    I definitely would invest in an extended warranty. As much as I love my 1999 Grand Cherokee Limited, it really has an awful lot of problems. I have read this about all of the Cherokees. It has been one problem after another. There are alot of problems with the GC's from faulty blend doors, to the power windows not working. I hope your GC is better than mine. Good luck!!
  • 02jeepgc2802jeepgc28 Member Posts: 8
    Hi,

    Since December 2010, my check engine light has come on five times. I've included below what was done each time at the mechanic.

    73,797 - P0456 Error Code - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (very small leak) - 11/26/10 - Possible loose gas cap, mechanic tightened and tested cap and reset the OBD.

    74,102 - P0442 Error Code - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (medium leak) - 12/7/10 - Gas cap tested bad, mechanic replaced the gas cap and reset the OBD.

    77,718 - P0455 Error Code - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (large leak) - 5/31/11 - Possible loose gas cap, mechanic tightened cap and reset the OBD.

    77,865 - P0455 Error Code - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (large leak) - 6/10/11 - Mechanic replaced the evaporative vent solenoid (solenoid was clicking loudly on the 11/26/10 date) and the crankcase vent hose (hose was cracked); reset the OBD.

    78,161 - P0455 Error Code - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (large leak) - 6/21/11 - Mechanic suggested going to the dealer because they have an advanced computer system.

    My questions:

    I've researched this on Google and it appears that many have had this issue on different Chrysler vehicles, many with no resolution. My mechanic said he could do a smoke test (pump smoke through the evaporative system) to see if that shows anything, but he said that this can be expensive to track down the problem. The dealer wants $95 just to run diagnostics (which would apply to my estimate to get it fixed, assuming they figure out the problem).

    Have you heard of this? If so, what have people tried?
    Any other suggestions?

    The mechanic said I could drive with the light on, but this makes me uneasy, especially if I go out of town. I have noticed a decline in gas mileage. Other than that, it may run slightly rough here and there, but overall doesn't seem phased by this issue. I haven't spent a ridiculous amount of money so far, but I'm trying to keep the costs down on this.

    Thanks!!
  • 02jeepgc2802jeepgc28 Member Posts: 8
    It is a 2002 Jeep GC with almost 79,000 miles. It is the 4.0 I-6 and is two wheel drive.
  • I have a 99 Laredo 4x4 V8. Mine is doing the same thing. I have 131k and have maintained this vehicle very well. Once the check engine light is on it stops wanting to stall. It actually does NOT stall. It ALMOST stalls, but then doesn't once I am stopped completely.

    This tells me it is a sensor. I have noted that A LOT of people on this forum have had this same problem, but I do not have time to research all the answers. Would someone tell me what to check FIRST! Then I can go from there. Thanks and have a happy 4th weekend.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    edited July 2011
    My truck wants to stall every time I come to a complete stop. It actually WANTS to stall, but stays running at the last second. I have been putting it in neutral when I stop to avoid lurching and shaking.
    I know others are having the same or similar problems. My truck has 131,000 miles, but has been very well maintained. I am hoping this is a sensor problem, like oxygen or mass airflow sensor.
    *****UPDATE***** The 99 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7 liter engine does NOT HAVE A MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR!!!!
    The check engine light is coming on, and after it is on the truck stops stalling except for 1 out of 10 stops. If the computer senses that there is a problem, and the light comes on, does it run in a limp mode until it can be repaired? What do I check first?
    My BCM and ECM were replaced 3 years ago.
    I had plugs put in at the dealer 3 years ago.
    Fuel injection system flushed 2 years ago.
    new transmission solenoid pack 3 years ago.
    Transfer case cover replaced, and new seal installed.
    New diff seals 3 years ago
    right front (passenger) hub bearing replaced
    New shocks 2 months ago
    New brakes 2 months ago
    New front axle half- shafts- 3 mos ago
    New C.V. boots 3 mos ago.
    Truck runs perfect other than this.

    Needs?

    1) Front left drivers side hub bearing needs to be replaced. It is grinding when I saw at the wheel above 30mph.

    2) Coolant overflow bucket hose is leaking.

    3) Drivers side heated seat button on dash is broken.

    Thanks guys. I just paid it off in April!!!!! It couldn't make it 2 mos without breaking down??????

    What a piece of cat-litter clump!!!! It has been a real struggle to keep it in good repair. I honestly love my truck.

    Help! Dealer wants $300.00 just to diagnose it. That is highway robbery!!!

    -Chris
  • 02jeepgc2802jeepgc28 Member Posts: 8
    Huh. Like you, I've read a ton of forums where people have had the same issues with no resolution, or have spent a lot of time and money trying to fix it. I noticed last night that my exhaust smells rich, so this tells me that it could be a sensor or perhaps a leaky vacuum hose. I hope you can find an answer. I actually had a stalling issue with my 96 GC I-6 with 120,000 miles. It ended up being one of the O2 sensors.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    edited July 2011
    I just found out that my Jeep has 4 oxygen sensors. 2 on the front (intake side) and 2 on the back,(exhaust side) after the Catalytic Converter.

    So, if you come across a definite fix, I would be grateful. I have this image in my head of the service writer telling me what I already know. "Well sir, it is one of your sensors". Well, so why did I give you $80.00 to diagnose it? I bet the screen on the code computer actually says "replace all sensors, and ECM" Frustrating. The ECM alone is $1k.

    So, as long as it runs I am going to limp it until a definite solution rears its head.

    In the meantime, my mom sold her 2000 6 cylinder WJ 6 months ago, and bought a Kia Forte'. I think I am on my way to buying an Elantra myself.

    Sad that America can't build a truck worth keeping after 5 years.
  • m9fusem9fuse Member Posts: 1
    Emission Light coming on; this happened to me in my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo about a year ago, the guy at pep boys checked the diagnostic and told me thats what it said, he asked if i had driven through a lot of big puddles/water and i had he said thats probably what did it. I did not worry about if after that and eventually it went away.

    Question: Bought my JGC Laredo 4x4 at 72000 miles, it has 114000 miles now, only problems i have had is the radiator fan went bad twice in a row so the car was overheating but was only about 75$ each time..... and the past few months the AC is not cold its basically whatever outside temp is, and lately thats in the 90's --- i bought the r134 refill but the gauge said it was full so i did it anyways still nothing, pep boys said probably the compressor , any thoughts?

    Question: also is this 2002 JGC likely to have many other problems, trying to sell it since i am worried from what i have heard but i have never really had any problems, can anyone guess that i might or what might go bad? Also, what kind of big maintenance should i get done to it (dont know anything about cars) so dont know what i should get done, i get all the oil changes and got new tires.

    Thanks for any help!
  • mskainesmskaines Member Posts: 1
    Dd ever get any resolution to your Jeep issue, my son has 1994 Grand Cherokee that is doing same thing. Starts off great, but hard to get it to shift from 1st to 2nd...etc. Thanks, Mike
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    edited July 2011
    The 99 is completely different from the 95. Different trans, engine, space frame, well, everyting.

    My problem is the Jeep wants to stall as I am slowing to stop. It has no problem shifting at all. It is an oxygen sensor most likely on mine.

    I hope you know the 95' to 98 models had lots of transmission issues. Sorry I cant help.
  • Well, I can tell you that I have 7k in mine since purchased.(It is a 99 V8 4x4) It had 89k when I bought it. Now it has 134,000. It needs a LF hub bearing, has a coolant leak, and it wants to stall at stoplights. I would NOT buy this vehicle again, or recommend one to a friend. I do like the V8 grunt and it was unstoppable in two years of snowstorms. It eats tires, transmission solenoids, sensors, fan belts, passenger rear brake light issues. On and on.

    I just paid it off in April. It ran for a month and then started having the aforementioned problems. Garbage.
  • How old is the battery and alternator? If they are stock then replace the battery and clean the leads. See if the problem goes away. If not take it to the dealer. They know for SURE what the problems are, so if u plan on keeping it get a full checkout.
  • strokeoluck2strokeoluck2 Member Posts: 91
    Purchased a new 2011 JGC Overland several weeks ago, and love it. I would have never in my wildest dreams have guessed that I'd own a Jeep. Always thought the Rubicons and souped up old CJ's were cool, but never owned a Jeep and never really thought about them. Until I saw their ads on TV and saw how nice the interiors were; then saw a video of Bob Lutz talking about how their interiors rivaled those of European luxury brands. Decided to check out the JGC and ditched my Acura TL! I love the ride - very comfortable (sorry, no serious off-roading for me), the stereo system, the panoramic roof, the stitching on the leather and...love the exterior design. Everyone that sees it is shocked it's a Jeep. My next door neighbor dropped $75k on a BMW 5 series, and he thought I purchased an Audi SUV. When I told him I "only" paid $40k for it, his jaw hit the driveway. I am a little nervous about long-term quality (last two vehicles were Acura/Honda, never had an issue), so I'm still thinking about the extended warranty.

    I have a couple questions and hoping someone can help me out.

    1) When I'm moving slowly, say in and out of the driveway/garage, I hear a minor "clicking." Any idea what this is? It doesn't seem to affect performance at all.

    2) I've learned that my Sprint HTC Droid phone doesn't pair with the UConnect system. Besides switching phones, any thoughts on a way to resolve this?

    3) Any recommendations for where to purchase an extended warranty? The dealer offered me one, but I'm always wary of their prices. I'd at least like to do a little comparison shopping.

    Thanks.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    edited July 2011
    Your happiness reminds me of the day I brought my 99 Laredo V8 home. It also reminds me of the day after where I went 4 a drive & second gear decided to take a break. Literally. After $7000 worth of service on it (90% covered by warranty), the check engine light finally took a long, 20k nap.

    This was four years ago, I only paid $6700 for it, & I basically got a really nice used truck with 89k.

    Well, it is expensive to service due to it's 4x4 system, and now I have a stalling issue and a coolant leak. The gas mileage is awful, it drives like a pig, it's steering is numb and the brakes require a heavy foot to push. I am prepping it for sale. my kids are older and I no longer need as much space, so I think I have earned a Subaru WRX or a Ford Focus ST, & I am going to buy it at the end of December, where 4x4's sell well and I can get a great deal on a 2011 or a lightly used 2010. I am going to do my homework this time, and buy a really good, reliable, inexpensive to drive car. Congrats on your new truck. I hope you bought the 6 cyl for good mileage, or the V8 if you wanna haul [non-permissible content removed] (and a boat).
    -Chris :lemon:
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    My 2004 Crand Cherokee had warped rotors after about 3 years (low mileage vehicle). At 38000 miles I replaced the front rotors and semi metallic pads from Advanced Auto. The OEM ceramic pads had more than 50% lining left, but I replaced them because I was there. The semi metallic pads generate less heat and stop better. So far, no warping. I never had satisfactory performance, ie warping from 14 Ford Taurus' I've owned and the semi metallic changeout cured the problem with the Fords. So far after 10 months, the JGC has no warping problems. The car is in Florida and tows a 4000 lb boat trailer, no issues. You may want to try this solution in addition to the caliper sliders as mentioned above.
  • nderrnderr Member Posts: 1
    it started all at once, first overheated. about 6 months ago the top radiator hose blew up. then on the way back from a vacation it overheated, put in a thermostate and it seemed to work fine.
    Now. it started overheating and fast when the a/c's on, when its off lasts about twice as long. the a/c regardless of temp seems to work for the first 5 min then blows. warm to hot air.
    I did a compression test and it was fine. A radiator pressure test. good. replaced the thermostate,, water ppump, and fan. Flushed the radiator well with no changes. The a/c condenser gets really really hot. I tough that maybe it was getting to hot and when the air was getting suckeed through the engine wouldnt allow the radiator to get cool, but mechanics told me that wouldnt do it. I check the freon and its good.
    one more thing to mention if you are going over 50 it wont overheat and the a/c seems to work better. I alsoo noticed bubbles in the radiator that doesnt seem to go away. The oil pressure gauge seems a bit high.
    when its hot i hear a ratteling noise every once in a while. Please help.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    bubbles in rad Blown head gasket
    have the mec check for exhaust gasses in the rad
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    check your clutch fan.. while warm-listen for a strong fan-like sound(mine does it while "cold")-you can hear it-if it's workin,otherwise,r&r,or try electric...it stayin cool above 50 sounds suspect,like the fan aint doin its job :lemon:
  • ephjeeperephjeeper Member Posts: 2
    Sounds to me like your condenser core is clogged. Be sure it and the rad core are clean so air can flow through just fine. Costs nothing to do this, either!

    May be clogged rad as well, and new ones are available for $150 or so, but a big job puttin them in (depending on the year you have).

    if you let it idle in the driveway, does it overheat, or just driving under 50mph?
  • It is still wanting to stall. It does it at idle speeds, or when coming to a stop. The truck is right on the edge of stalling, but then it comes back to life after a second or two, and idle smooths out. I know it has four O/2 sensors, and I have go about 7k into repairs on this thing. Please help!

    Then, the check engine light come on and it runs better. I just dropped another 3k into this vehicle in January. It still needs a drivers front hub bearing, and that was it until this stalling issue has reared it's ugly head. Does ANYONE know whats up with my truck? I am book smart on cars, but I am not good at turning screws!

    -Chris and his Grand Cher sadness :+(
  • nick2431nick2431 Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: I have a '05 Grand Cherokee Limited that I purchased about 3 months ago. I recently noticed that I will be driving down the road and my headlights are just flashing on/off while in the off position. At night when the lights are on the highbeams turn on off (usually just as oncoming traffic is approaching), and they have turned completely off. And forget about using the automatic lights because they also have a mind of their own.
    I was wondering if anyone has experienced this same issue or know what the problem is. I talked to a mechanic who previously worked at a Jeep dealership and he said it was probably some $900 module that has been a big problem in many Jeeps.
  • joe3djoe3d Member Posts: 21
    Hello, I have a 2005 JGC V6 and it starts then after 2 seconds stalls or dies. The engine turns over but then just shuts down. I changed the battery last year. I know it sounds like a vague trouble but any ideas would help. Thanks, Joe
  • deratristarderatristar Member Posts: 14
    It may be a security issue. If it isn't recognizing your key, it will automatically shut down.

    Is the key icon showing?
  • taglacataglaca Member Posts: 2
    Totaled my BMW convertible about a month ago and now about to buy a used SUV with the insurance check. Was considering 2000-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee, but have heard rumor, despite how nice they look, they're maintenance and mechanical repair bottomless pits.

    I'm a school teacher and cant afford costly mechanical repairs, thus should I bail on the Jeep idea?

    Other SUVs I am considering are the Nissan Pathfinder and Mazda Tribute. I've been advised by a used car inspector to stay away from the Mitsubishi and I just cant bring myself to drive a Ford (Explorer) ever though he says its a great buy for the money and reliable.

    Would appreciate all input and advice.
  • topat46topat46 Member Posts: 20
    Unless you are willing and able to do many repairs and mtce items yourself, forget about it. Between the blend doors, hydraulic fan, rear axle oil seals etc. it will cost a lot of money to fix. If you are able to take care of these things yourself the parts prices are outrageous. The differentials need the oil changed every 12k miles (which comes fast). The front end has to be perfect otherwise you either get the "death wobble" or the "bump steer" issue. I could go on and on. Good luck on whatever you decide.
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    I have owned 2 Jeeps, a 2001 JGC Laredo (loaded but with I6 and Selec trac, your best bet in that vintage) and the past 4 years a 07 Laredo with 4.7 V8. Note that one wasn't my first choice but my wife really likes Jeeps and the price was $8k less than the GMCAcadia equivalent features vehicle.

    So far the 07 has been a good vehicle, at 42k miles no major repairs. Jeeps require expensive under the vehicle maintenance like the F/R differentials at over $200 for fluid changes every 15-30k miles but their 4WD system is the best and they are good tow vehicles with the V8. The 4.7s are better reliability and mpg than the 5.7 hemis although neither is good mpg, 22mpg doing 65 dropping to 20mpg at 70. It does feel very safe in bad weather though, nice here in snowy MN.

    My son still drives our 01 Laredo with 123k miles which has had very minimal problems so far. I'd recommend a 01-04 Laredo but be sure to get the I6 and Selectrac (shiftable 4wd fulltime) if you can find one under 75k miles with a written or dealer service record showing fluids and tranny fluid/filter exchange. Do NOT get a 00, first year in that model year change so more problems. My son is starting to have some typical problems like broken power window regulators, a cooling fan sensor etc but hasn't spent anything other than fluids and belts since he bought it from me at 70k miles a few years ago. However if you do not need the rugged 4wd system you can probably find cheaper more reliable with better mpgs out there too. Good luck!
  • taglacataglaca Member Posts: 2
    Wow - I had no idea. I totaled my little BMW Convertible last month (1998 with very few repair issues) and now have to purchase something with the insurance payout by Wed. - when I lose the rental car.

    I'm a school teacher with no auto mechanical knowledge so your advice is GREATLY appreciated.

    Based on this info and advice from others, I think I've now made my decision to go with the Nissan Pathfinder. I'm going to shoot for one with less than 115K, however I see many for sale on-line with more than 200K which is a good indicator to me. Leme know if there are other you think I should consider.

    Again, THANK YOU!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Have your independent mechanic check out the Pathfinder's transmission. (link).

    Well, whatever you find that looks good, it's cheap insurance to have a mechanic give it a once over.

    2011 Used Car Best Bets may help.
  • joe3djoe3d Member Posts: 21
    Thanks for your reply. All the lights show before it dies. I do have two keys and have tried them both. Tonight however, when I try to start the jeep nothing happens. No clicking, nothing just dead. I have a tow coming tomorrow to bring it to my mechanic. I will follow-up with the reults. Thanks, Joe D
  • The Mazda Tribute and the Ford Escape are the same vehicle, and u can get the Ford cheaper, and it looks far better. It has a strong Duratech V6, so do not buy the 4-banger. The truck is too heavy for the base 4cyl engine. The Mazda is made by Ford, so don't buy it because you think it is Japanese and therefore a better vehicle.

    Be sure to get an AWD model, and do NOT buy a Grand Cherokee, unless you really need a 4x4 with a locking center diff, low range, and skid plates.

    If you do decide on the Grand Cherokee, the V8 is a must have if you can afford the gas. I have a 99, and my 4.7 hauls a** for a heavy truck. and I love it in the rain, because I can stomp on the gas and the 4x4 prevents almost all wheel-spin. It is bigger than the Fordza, and I have leather, sunroof, Infinity Sound system, power drivers and passenger seat, heated seats, etc. It just costs a lot to service.
  • joe3djoe3d Member Posts: 21
    deratristar, thanks for your advice about the security issue with the key. I noticed the keys didn't respond to even locking and unlocking. I had it checked and it was the module that handles the security of the key. You were right, thanks again! Joe D
  • vkleerskovvkleerskov Member Posts: 1
    I know this is an old thread but I'm having the same issue and I can't seem to track down a fix. I searched WJ heater fix on ebay but no luck. Any help is appreciated. You can email me back at Jaha2929@hotmail.com Thanks.

    Jason
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    Its the "flapper" damper under the dashboard. Its cheap plastic and it breaks or sticks in one position. Very cosly labor to replace because you have to pull the dash. Saw a bill for one of these for $700 including labor at my dealer.
  • animal2animal2 Member Posts: 11
    there is a kit with a template to cut into the heater box to replace the flap available at the dealer I don't remember the part numbers good luck
  • I have found a repair that will benefit all Jeep WJ model (99 to 04 Grand Cherokee) vehicles.

    First, open the hood and stick a pole in it (because the struts that hold the hood open are most likely broken, and even if they are not, a stiff breeze will bring the hood down on your head).

    Second, pack all open areas under the hood full of C4. Repeat this step for the interior.

    Third, douse your WJ with gasoline. For 4.7 liter H.O. vehicles use premium unleaded. Save one quart for step four.

    (do not try to siphon gas from the tank, as our SUV's are mostly on E)

    Step four, use the quart of gas from step three to fill a wine bottle, then stuff a rag in it, light it, and carefully place in vehicle. Safety first!!!

    Now you can finally enjoy your Grand Cherokee's only repair that is permanente, and has cost you nothing.

    Sincerely,

    Chris, Rikers Island, NY :lemon:
  • woowoowootywoowoowooty Member Posts: 12
    Ain't that the truth !!! I am so sick of my car I could scream. I will fix one thing and something else will mess up. There is ALWAYS something wrong with my car. I swear it is possessed by Satan.
  • Ha ha. I feel the same. I paid mine off in May. 5 days later it wants to stall at stoplights. Then, boom...check engine light. Then, coolant leak. Add that to the left front wheel bearing, and I have 3 significant issues.

    However, because I just put $2500 in it, and because nothing significant is leaking or broken, my mechanic says it would be a sin to give up on it now. So, I am going to pay the man to fix it. I have a 99 w/ the V8 engine, and only 134k. I had a 100k warranty, and at 98k it needed $7200 in repairs to the 4x4 system and transfer case AND diffs AND solenoid packs so the drive-line is really solid. I honestly just love the way the V8 sings and the thrust. So, out comes the checkbook... :lemon:
  • woowoowootywoowoowooty Member Posts: 12
    I am trying to decide if I want to keep mine or get a more reliable car. Here is the short list of problems:

    1. Driver's window came off the track and slides down by itself. (I have it rigged to stay up) Rear driver's side window won't go down.
    2. No heat-need to replace the blend doors. Plan on getting a Heater Treater kit to fix because I cannot afford to have it fixed at the dealership.
    3. I need the rear differential worked on? I am not quite sure about that one, but my mechanic says it is minor.
    4. Need transmission serviced.

    In the last two years I have had to replace the transfer case, oil sending unit, brakes, radiator, water pump, thermostat, radiator fan w/shroud, battery (numerous times), light bulb sockets for rear lights, and the list goes on.
    I do really love my car, but I am really sick of constantly having to fix it. At what point should I cut my losses and get another car? I have a 1999 Grand Cherokee Limited with 111,000 miles on it.
  • strokeoluck2strokeoluck2 Member Posts: 91
    OP said: "If you do decide on the Grand Cherokee, the V8 is a must have if you can afford the gas."

    I'm assuming most of us who can afford a $40k vehicle can afford the gas - as I can - but I still opted for the V6 Overland. I needed enough power to haul a 21' boat 10x/year. The rest of the time I need an engine that will allow me to merge into freeway traffic, but keep my overall commute costs reasonable. Can I afford V8-style gas mileage? Yes, but why if it's not necessary? I had a neighbor who had the Jeep Commander with the V8, and he commutes to the same general area I do. He said he was filling that thing up every other day and you could almost literally see the gas needle move if he had to floor it for some reason. I fill up about once/week or maybe every 10 days.

    Anyway, just a contrasting opinion. I'm sure the V8 is a little more fun to drive because it would obviously be quicker. (So would an SRT8.) But I am VERY happy with the V6, especially if I put it in "Sport" mode.
  • strokeoluck2strokeoluck2 Member Posts: 91
    Have an issue with the quadra lift feature on my 2011 JGC Overland. I push the "UP" button and the light flashes like it wants to go up, but it doesn't go up. It worked for the first month I had the vehicle, then stopped working. I know the feature still works because one day I hopped in and it was actually in the middle height position (normally it's in the lowest position).

    Took it to dealer yesterday and they worked on it for 90 minutes. Came out and told me they think something is funky, but can't quite put their finger on it. Told me it was working again, and to call them if/when it happens again so they can get a malfunction code off of it. Went to parking lot, started it up and tested it out - didn't work. Walked back into to the service guy (nice guy) and they took it back in for another 90 minutes. He said they had a better handle on what the problem was (something about the pump or compressor?), but needed some time to talk with Jeep HQ about a solution and parts. I need to bring it back in, they'll give me a loaner, and will try to fix it permanently.

    Minor issue as we rarely use the feature - generally only when hitching up to our boat, and even then it's not a necessity. But I want to get it fixed while it's under warranty.

    I know there are quality complaints about the JGC (then why the heck are there so many on the road?!), but I have to say that overall I've been extremely pleased with this vehicle. This is my first Jeep. Almost every single person who rides in it is shocked it's a Jeep. Don't know...maybe my story will be different after 30k miles, but very happy so far. I'm seriously thinking about buying the extended warranty and driving this thing to 100k+ miles.
  • Thanks for your thoughts and insights on my post. I think most people would choose the V8, and absolutely none would choose the V6, because there is no V6. The 4.0 liter, 195 hp motor is an i-6. I is for "inline". Sorry man. -C
  • 98jeepnc98jeepnc Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1998 jeep grand cherokee. Two saturdays ago i stopped at a red and i think a ring gear broke and went though the rear pumpkin and put a nice little hole in. It was grinding and i thought it was brakes.Was there any i could have done to prevent that from happing ? it pushed the reardriveshift out and i was picking up peices for about five minutes .Any ideas on what to do ?

    I love Jeeps and will always buy them if i can.
  • mdiebermdieber Member Posts: 1
    Did you find an aftermarket spring perch? I have the same problem on my 96 grand cherokee and cant find one.
  • tenwolvztenwolvz Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 cherokee limited straight 6 all wheel drive. The other day I was driving down the hwy and it just died. It would turn over but not fire up. So I got it towed back home. I thought it was the fuel pump but when i spray starter fluid into the air intake it dosent fire and if it was the pump it should. So i moved on and so far I replaced the ignition coil still no fire. Then i thought maybe the pick up in the distributor and replaced that. Still no fire. Then i thought must be the engine control module computer so I replaced that and thought for sure it would start but again no fire up. Im not getting a spark at the distributor and dont know what else it could be. this is my only car and i need it fixed bad. If any one can help please do so. HELP NO SPARK!!!! :sick: :sick: :sick:
  • offroadpepoffroadpep Member Posts: 11
    tenwolvz ..........

    Try checking the Crankshaft / Flywheel Sensor, and the Cam Sensor

    Shame you already replaced the ECM, may have not needed that ?
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