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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    I agree with offroadpep. Is the engine cranking freely? Is it getting air & fuel?
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    You will need a digital voltmeter and wiring diagram. You may have blown a fusible link or have a bad ground. When checking continuity on a ground wire make sure one clip lead goes all the way back to the (-) terminal of the battery. Unfortunately, this will all take time and as you have already seen, experimenting with solutions is not cost effective. I once replaced a rear wiper motor and the problem was the switch that turns the wiper on. I replaced a power window motor and the problem was the track. I'm an electrical engineer and it has taken me days to track down electrical problems. I hope you kept your old engine computer so you will have a spare. There was probably nothing wrong with it. Basically, if you need it fixed right away you will have to go to a mechanic $$$.
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    I was lucky when the same thing happened to me going up a 13% grade. The coil burned out...150k miles on a 93 gc 6 cyc. Was getting fuel but no spark. Pulled the coil wire and there was nothing. Replaced and all OK...but was told if that did not fix it check the crank sensor. Pulling a hard grade like that in an old jeep is common to put such a load on the coil that it frys. In that area the Napa guy said they have seen coils that actually looked hot!!

    Good luck
  • rsi1rsi1 Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    Could some please help me with this. Need Valve guides for my Grand Cherokee 2001. I'm from South Africa and the supplier here do not sell the valve guides on there own ( need to buy the hole head .... crazy i think ??? ) Please could any one help ?

    Any one that can help can mail me at delteur@internext.co.za

    Thanks guys
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try RockAuto.com. They ship worldwide.

    Use this code and you may get 5% off:

    70510425849584
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    I checked e-bay motors for you, nothing there.

    Otherwise, you will have to buy at a USA shop that is willing to ship overseas. I bought my Jeep and deal with Safford motors (I have a 99 4.7)

    703-866-1700. Springfield, VA, USA 22150 Good luck.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Hey guys. I found a great place to buy parts cheap for any model Jeep, including our beloved Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ models.

    I have ordered a complete wood grain ashtray/heated seat switch /lighter and 12v power module in good condition for $20 bucks. It was 12.50 to ship. Total- $32 bucks.

    It does say "4.0 model 99-04", but the wiring is the same on all of them.
  • jeepsam73jeepsam73 Member Posts: 1
    I have had my JGCL for about 6 months and when I stop, the rear end jerks like I was rearended, what could be the cause of this and also, when I tried to start it earlier it wouldn't turn over and stay started and would die after a few seconds and it took almost 10 minutes for the thing to start... I need help because no one has an answer for these problems..
  • strokeoluck2strokeoluck2 Member Posts: 91
    I think you're confused, my 2011 JGC Overland has a 290 HP V6. Read more: http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/reviews/drives/2011-jeep-grand-cherokee-tes- t-drive.
  • strokeoluck2strokeoluck2 Member Posts: 91
    Wanted to provide a quick update for the benefit of anyone with similar quadra-lift issues. The dealer discovered that the compressor went out, not sure why. They replaced it and everything is fine now.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    I must apologize for being a wise-guy.

    The 92-2004 models (ZJ and WJ) are equipped with the venerable 4.0 liter inline 6 (I6) engine. The WK (05-2010) and WK2 are both offered with V6 engines. The WK with the 3.7 liter, 215HP V6, and the WK2 with the new 3.6 liter Pentastar engine producing 290HP.

    The 3.6 is now offered in almost all Chrysler, Doge and Jeep models, either standard or optional in depending on the vehicle. It is a thoroughly modern engine, producing anywhere between 280-305 HP, depending on the plumbing in multiple vehicles.

    I tried to be a wise guy, telling a user there is no V6 engine in GC's. I meant the ZJ and WJ models, since those vehicles seem to need more repairs and maintenance than the newer models.

    I apologize

    -Chris :blush:
  • joe3djoe3d Member Posts: 21
    Hello, is there anyway to remove the trunk floor? I spilled some liquid in the trunk and need to clean it out. I already have removed the cargo lid that accesses the spare tire nut, but I see there are odd looking screws in four places around the trunk area. It doesn't look like regular screws or allen wrench screws. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Joe
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    edited November 2011
    Man. That is a new one.

    The floor is welded in...and is part of the body/structure of the vehicle. If you are speaking of the carpet I suppose you can tear it out. If you do a good job, you can cut a new piece and install it. .
    ****I Googled it for you, checked at least 5 places, and the 4 screws were not mentioned. You need to know that THE GAS TANK IS UNDER THE SPARE TIRE. Do NOT cut out the metal floor unless you want a spark to catch the vehicle on FIRE!!****

    There is no mention of a "procedeure" to cut it out, & furthermore I bet those screws hold the gas tank under the truck. I looked up gas tank removal, and this is what was mentioned:
    "Remove the bolts which hold the tank against the bottom of the Cherokee with a socket wrench. Mounting bolts are located at the back and at the front of the tank"

    Did you spill gas in the trunk..like a gas can fell over? Hard to get those fumes out. Good luck. :confuse:
  • joe3djoe3d Member Posts: 21
    cski, thanks for your reply and concern. First off, I have a 2005 JGC I failed to mention that in my first post. This might be the last time I pick up food for the family parties. I had a large seafood tray called Zuppa di Pesce. It's like a soup. OF course, I took precautions with a drop cloth underneath but it wasn't enough. I shampooed the carpet but I know some fell through the creases around the outskirts of the trunk. Just imagine that stench! I might be out of luck if it's welded but I will look again later today. I will keep you posted with the results. Thanks, Joe
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    edited November 2011
    Well, just steam clean the whole trunk area. I would use one of the industrial units that can be rented at grocery stores.

    I will be a lot cheaper than cutting out the carpet!

    It's either that, or 10 bottles of Febreeze mixed with those little pine-tree mirror things... :sick:
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited November 2011
    I'd skip the pine-trees and their chemical out-gassing.

    Fresh coffee grounds are great for masking odors while the Febreeze or steam cleaner works, but you have to replenish them every few days.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 236,830
    I don't know about the coffee thing.... spilled coffee in my cupholders always stinks forever... :sick:

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  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    lol, try some grounds, not a cup of Starbucks. :P
  • joe3djoe3d Member Posts: 21
    You got it fish! A full-size trey of soupy fish. I did shampoo it with my green machine cleaner and it smells better but it's not there yet. I'm concerned it seeped in where the carpet meets the plastic molding and where those 4 sets of machine screws are around the cargo hatch. Thanks for all the cleaning ideas. The coffee sound interesting but I will try some the new fabreeze or baking soda next. Thanks, Joe
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Eww.

    Yeah, the coffee grounds would just mask the odor; you need something to get rid of it for good.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    So, I ordered a new ashtray and heated seat module, as it was $35 from eBay motors instead of just the heated seat switch, which costs $75 from the dealer. The drivers side switch was broken. The passenger side was fine..or so I thought.

    Excited, I installed the new module, and sure enough my seat fired rite up.... unfortunately the passenger side did not.

    So, since I have 1 good switch in the old module, I am going to swap switches. Do repairs on the WJ models EVER end? :sick:
  • sirsimonsirsimon Member Posts: 1
    Lately whenever it gets below around 50 my evic ( temp, compass tire pressure) completely stops working.... Any ideas?
  • windycityjeepwindycityjeep Member Posts: 1
    Just got some body work done (replaced rear passenger door). On my drivers side in the lower right hand corner of the rear door there is small flat panel that is barely noticeable, however, the replacement door has no small panel in the corressponding left hand lower corner...

    Is there supposed to be? I have been looking for a 2011 jeep all day and cant find it...murphy's law...
  • southbound4mesouthbound4me Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I connected the battery cables backwards so now I have the same problem you do.. I removed fuse 5 but nothing will work...
  • southbound4mesouthbound4me Member Posts: 2
    First of all I connected the battery backwards. When the spark occurred I immediately disconnected the cables. Now when I take the key out of the ignition a clicking noise comes from the glove box. The clicking stops when I close the door. I removed #5 fuse but now the door locks don't work, nor do the inside lights...Any idea what I need to do. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    I think you blew the Body Control Unit..which is a companion computer with the ECU (Engine). It controls all the electrical system (all the little things that no one thinks about) inside the cabin. Buy one online for $150.00 to $200.00, already formatted and programmed.

    The body computer is in the glove box along with a bunch of relays. It may just be the breaker IN FRONT of the body computer...which would blow to protect the body computer, but 99% of techs will replace the BCU.
    I do not have a service manual on me but this is a pretty good guess.
  • animal2animal2 Member Posts: 11
    chrysler says noise in pump is normal and put up with it seems it's a case of head in the sand.. Has anyone else reported this problem; pump is used in 2011- 2012 v-6 applications. I was told to buy the v-8 if I didn't want the noise.
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    We have a 93 Jeep Grand C. and the auto lights work as far as the sensor goes but the only lights that come on are the running lights. The headlights do not come on. They do if you manually move the switch to the manual position so my thought is that the relay is probable defective but am not sure which relay to replace. Was hoping someone also knows if there is another relay exactly the same that could be swapped in a test.
  • sallylssallyls Member Posts: 2
    It sounds like your anti-theft system is disabling the car, thinking it has been stolen. i am no mechanic but this used to happen to me every time I let a battery die and it needed jumped in my 95 grand. As soon as you have juice flowing, use your remote, or the key in the door is better, to "unlock" it thus turning off the anti-theft, then continue to jump and start it. that should do it. Your car thinks it is being stolen.
  • mat11mat11 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 95 grand cherokee and whenever i disconect the battery and i hook it back up the alarm gets set off dont ask me why im no mechanic it just does and for my model/year i have to turn the lock in the back of the suv twice to rest the alarm.. hope it helps
  • quietstorm242quietstorm242 Member Posts: 3
    Hi everyone!! I have a 2006 cherokee and lately everytime i starts it, it makes a clicking sound for about 2-3 seconds and you dont hear the noise anymore. But when i check my oil knowing that i just had it service that same week its half past where it should be, but its not leaking on the ground. I had someone check it they're saying that its the crank shaft seal in the rear that needs to be change, but another mechanic is saying otherwise. Can someone help me please, because to have the crank shaft seal remove and replace its gonna cost me $1300.00 which is very exspensive
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    If you do not have a visible leak under the car, its not the rear crankcase main seal. Suggest you place a large piece of butcher paper under the car when you park at night and see if there are any oil spots the next morning, no oil, no leak. If you have a V8, those take 6 quarts of oil, not 5. Some oil change places only put in 5 because most do not know about the extra quart. I have a 2004 Grand Cherokee and have had low oil after an oil change, just added a quart and good to go. Top off the oil to the fill mark on LEVEL ground and check it after 500 miles. It should be close to full and above the add mark. As far as the clicking sound, that is a valve lifter. If it quits after a few seconds, there is no problem with it, its very common in many cars besides Jeep.
  • quietstorm242quietstorm242 Member Posts: 3
    Hi mikey, thanks for the idea, i will put a large piece of paper under there to see if its really leakin. My engine size is actualy a V6. I will call the dealer to see if they have that vavle lifter your talkin about.
  • jdr1966jdr1966 Member Posts: 1
    It's your blend door. Common failure on this vintage of jeep. Search YouTube for video on how to easily diag while sitting in your driveway.

    Good luck. There are repair kits that you can get for about $120 that allow you to do repair for less than dealer charges.
  • do_drummerdo_drummer Member Posts: 2
    My jeep has been running very rough and dying randomly unless I give it gas constantly. I recently replaced the battery terminal connectors and spark plugs and I tested the battery and alternator with a multimeter several times (all OK). Here is a video I took with my cell phone:
    http://youtu.be/kiCWUzWjWbI

    Thank you guys for any information that helps me to get it running good again. :sick:
  • ken777bkken777bk Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited 5.9 { what a power house} I have a front differential rorar that only showes up during de acceleration. When the vehicle is below 20 mph the roar seems to pulsate as if it keeps up with wheel rotation. With the vehicle on Jack stands the roar seems louder on right side I placed my stethscope on back side of right side front wheel bearing and seemed ok. checked pinion bearing area ok. listened to right side carriage bearing area noise sound louder. Here is the puzzle If it is a carriage bearing why do I hear a pulsating roar when below 20mph? I tried manually moving wheels to see if there was free play, none. Please Help!!!!
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    Did you check the brake rotors and calipers? Could be a warped rotor or hung caliper pulsating against a warper rotor. Does it pulsate when you brake?
  • mburger12mburger12 Member Posts: 1
    I am the owner of a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Lerado, and I have been having all sorts of problems with it. Electrical systems in my car have started to fail, one after another. It started with the radio and the interior lights, and has spread to the power locks and the car will no longer start. Also, the door makes a loud repeated clicking noise when it is opened, and when the door is opened all other electrical systems in the car shut off. My car is in desperate need of help. I have checked the fuses and they are not causing any of the problems.

    If anyone has any suggestions I would really appreciate it.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    battery cables? i replaced th ends on mine,but soldered the ends..corrosion was in the ends,but the torch burnt most of the green powder out,(oxidised copper),solder sealed it... so i guess i'm saying to check your battery cables and connections--especially both ground wires...then check all your ground straps-sounds like a body ground-or bad cable..if you see green powder in th battery cables,time to replace them :sick:
  • animal2animal2 Member Posts: 11
    i think your problem is in the harness between the door and the pillar, pull open the corrigated rubber boot and you are going to find one or more broken wires.. the easiest way to repair is to splice in an additional length of wire between the broken pieces..
  • kwhit99kwhit99 Member Posts: 3
    I have recently purchased an '05 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7L Hemi and the tire pressure light has started to blink on my dash, it is the winter time now so I have set my pressure to 35 in all tires, but the light is still showing. Sometimes it will blink in a sequence of 20 flashes while I am driving 20-25MPH, and then it will again blink in a sequence of 20 flashes when I am driving at about 60-65MPH. I have had multiple people check out this problem and no one has an answer other than a faulty sensor, I replaced the sensor and the problem is still occurring, could this be a recall? or just an electrical problem with my vehicle? Or I found a small dent in the backside of my rim, could this be causing the problem?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    did you check the spare?
  • kwhit99kwhit99 Member Posts: 3
    Yes I have checked the spare it is a fully functional spare with rim included, unfortunately when I swapped it out for the wheel with the bent rim the tire pressure light still flashes in the same sequences. I even got my dash lights reset and days later it came back.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    I had a van do the same thing. I ended up pulling the fuse and drove it in blissful ignorance for 4 more years. It never lost even a pound of air in any tire. You can thank the US Government for forcing the car industry to put them in all US spec cars and light trucks.

    -Chris
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited December 2011
    You must of had solid rubber wheels if you never put air in the tires for four years. :shades: Tires normally lose 1 psi per month. (link)

    A couple of years ago the TPMS light went on in a rental van I was driving. Sure enough, one of the tires was low, but it had enough air that I was able to limp to a gas station a mile away and top it up enough to get it to a tire shop. Lots easier than changing a flat.

    Then last summer, I was driving 40 miles of gravel in a construction area trying to make a ferry when I destroyed my tire. My older van doesn't have a TPMS. Just figured it was a rough road and kept driving on a low tire. That cost me $160 bucks to replace the tire in the boonies, not to mention having to do this. And I missed the ferry.
  • laredo94laredo94 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased this for $500, it has very high mileage. The problem is that We cannot get the back tailgate to open. The bigger problem is the person we bought the jeep from let his 17 year old son try to fix the lock on the front driver side door lock. He bent the metal all up and complete destroyed the interior panel. I'm assuming I need to get a new door?? My first thought was to go to area junkyards to look for one. Does anyone else have any ideas??
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Your best bet is to find a local junkyard with complete interior panel. If the door is other wise ok then just do that.

    The size and weight of those items makes it difficult to ship them to you for a reasonable price.

    Here in the DC area there is a large chain of junkyards called Brandywine Auto Parts/salvage.

    Please be aware that junkyards are increasingly becoming a thing of the past. They take a lot of land, and recycling the metal makes big profits for salvage companies.-Chris
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Do you have a check engine light that is intermittent? Does it want to stall as you come to a stop?

    It has been my experience that rough idle AND having to gas it to keep it running is a bad Oxygen sensor.

    My 99 has 4 of them. It cost $1000 to change them all out after having similar problems.
    Your G/C has different V8 engines than mine though. FYI.
  • abl903abl903 Member Posts: 1
    I BOUGHT MY GRAND 2 MONTHS AGO AND I NOTICED MY STUFF IN THE REAR
    WAS GETTING WET, I JUST THOUGHT IT WAS CONDENSATION FROM THE RAIN WE HAD, NOW IT TURNED OUT THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE CARGO AREA IS WET!

    THE RAIN IS COMING IN THROUGH ONE OF THE TRIM PANELS, ANY SUGGESTIONS FROM ANYONE OUT THERE!!! THANKS
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    I bet the passenger side taillight is out too. The problem with the 99-04 models is water leaking in from the roof and drippi g down behind the pass taillight then into the rear interior. If u lopk at other similar jeeps on the road u will notice the pass tail lite out a lot. Dont change the bulb...its not bad...you have to unscrew it and clean the contacts with a wire brush. For the leak, make sure all the gaskets in tue hatch area are secured. They slide off of the car due to dereriorating glue that holds the rubber to the metal. -Chris
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