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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    You have a warranty, its a new vehicle so take it back to the dealer. They'll fix it free!
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    I do have to tell you that after a love-hate relationship with my Jeep, $10,000 in repairs, & a long history of "buy american" biting me in the tail....I just purchased a 2012 Optima. No more strange electrical problems, frequent costly 4x4 maintenance, and overall poor quality. These are supposed to be "heavy duty" vehicles that cut through bad weather, can handle trail riding, etc. The truth is that I dont even trust it to male it to 7/11. Anyone want a used Jeep? $4k cash takes it. -Chris :cry:
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    Sorry you had such bad luck. I bought new a 2004 Grand Cherokee and have had no issues after 7 years of ownership. Like you, I bought a new Hyundai Sonata 2011 and love the car. Need both vehicles because the Hyundai is useless in snow deeper than 5 inches and won't tow anything. The Jeep is a strong vehicle, I think you just had a streing of bad luck or possibly a bad dealer. You said you had a 2012 so I don't understand how you ran up a $10,000 repair bill. If you were closer, I would buy it for $4K since its worth 20K plus.
  • archgabrielarchgabriel Member Posts: 1
    its not your front diferential it is the stock rotors that are with the truck if you had them replaced its still just the equivalant. BEST option is to UPGRADE to better braking syatem such as brembo or othe offroad type of rotors they can take a little fore or look for crossdrilled and slotted rotors and just upgrade calipers. but that the easiest way to fix it i have made my rotors special because of what i do with my 98 limited. Also if you her front end knocking i would suggest switch to a skyjack suspension set.maybe put a limited drop travel for looks and if you do go off road it wont drop out on you.
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    Not necessary to do all that. Get stock rotors from Autozone or wherever and replace the ceramic disc pads with semi metallic. The heat from the ceramic warps the rotor and will make noise. For $25 an axle set its a cheap fix. I spent $175 for new rotors, pads and hardware. Did mine 30K miles ago and they are still on the car, no rotor warping and brakes efficiently and I tow a 3500 lb trailer/boat.
  • jeepjeep97jeepjeep97 Member Posts: 4
    edited December 2011
    spark plugs and wires ,cap and rotor,ignition coil,idle air control valve,o2 sensor ,cat also .....all new and changed but jeep shuts off at random times on the highway or at stop .it putts away shutting off or sometimes shutting off :mad: .HELP ME PLEASE :cry::( :confuse:
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    replace the computer. Buy a reprogrammed one on ebay motors. It will do the trick. If it isn't mechanical, then it IS electrical/ computer related. Run this info through your mechanic. DO NOT BUY A COMPUTER FROM CHRYSLER/MECHANIC. It will run u a $1000. It will be $199 on ebay motors, with a 1 year warranty. It is already programmed for your model. It just needs to be plugged in. It is called the ECU. (Engine Control Unit). There is also one called the BCU. You most likely need the ECU. So....try it. It is inexpensive, easy to install, and 80% will solve all your issues. -Chris
  • offroadpepoffroadpep Member Posts: 11
    Ha ! ECU/ECM (Engine Control Unit) (Engine Control Module) everyone has a different name for them. BCU (Body Control Unit). Ya, they do that sometimes. Most likely after they get hot. Usually run fine when cool or cold. It's most likely the first one (ECU/ECM) and not the BCU. There easy to change, plug and play. Last time I checked with Auto Zone they were selling for $145.00 exchange with a one year warrenty. You need to take in your Vin number and mileage. Usually they have to order them but only takes about 3 days. Also I would take in the old one as it has Part numbers and Model numbers on it they may need. Make sure you take in the right one, it has three plugs. There is also a TCM (Transmission Control Unit), it has just one large long plug on most years. I have a 2000 GC and it is doing the same thing, but winter is here and it runs fine now. Will change it next spring before it gets hot. Good luck to you, I'll keep a watch on this page in case you need more info. "PEP" :>)
  • linrlinr Member Posts: 14
    i have a 95 jgc. iwant to know if anyone has ever changed the fuel pump, on one. the pump i bought is a model e7087m airtex. does anyone know the ins and outs about this.
  • tyler012201tyler012201 Member Posts: 4
    edited December 2011
    I have a a question i am purchasing a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee laredo 54,000 from a family member who was left 14 cars due to a family members death. The owner was a car fanatic and took real good care of his cars.I have never owned a car with such low mileage. So i need to know about maintenace on this car.I know you are sapost to do certain things a different mileage milestones . If some one is able to help me out that would be great. Also if you happen to know where i can get a maunnal for this car as well that would be even better.Also another thing how often are you sapost to change a K&N air filter it also has this.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    You can get the service manual PDF all over the net. I would just buy one at www.ebaymotors.com

    Good luck. Service is VERY expensive on this vehicle

    I found the diff manual free online if your mechanic needs to take apart the diffs or case. http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X5001-CVSP.pdf

    I wish you godspeed! -Chris
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    There should be an owners manual in the car if he took such good care and it will have all that info. The K&N air filters are not changed but cleaned. Go to your local automotive store and ask for the kit that contains a cleaning spray and oil spray. Instructions will be with the kit. They are the best filters if taken care of.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You can sometimes find owner's manuals at auto salvage yards too (unfortunately Jeep doesn't let you download older ones for free).

    You can find the maintenance schedules with the Edmunds Car Maintenance Guide.

    Paper filters are cheap and easy.
  • tyler012201tyler012201 Member Posts: 4
    THANKS FOR THE INFO.HIS BROTHER JUST HAS NO HAD TIME TO LOOK IN THE HOUSE FOR IT I KNOW THAT IS WHERE IT IS.JUST LOOKING FOR ONE IN THE MEAN TIME.WHILE I AM WAITING FOR STUFF TO GO THROUGH THE COURT SYSTEM.
  • tyler012201tyler012201 Member Posts: 4
    Good thing my husband is able to do stuff and would bring it to my mechanic which doe s stuff for less than half of the dealers.Thanks again
  • jeepjeep97jeepjeep97 Member Posts: 4
    the car could be sitting for hours then i'll turn it on fine and move 3 feet and it will shut off or turn on and drive for miles and then will just shut off no warning .weird stuff :confuse:
  • jeepjeep97jeepjeep97 Member Posts: 4
    i just had the computer reprogrammed when the ignition coil went out . the mechanic said when the old coil went bad it went into safe mode so it wont short it out $145 to reprogram it .it ran fine for awhile after that :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    You might still have a fuel problem even though the mechanic found an ignition problem. Ask them to check the fuel pressure and replace the fuel filter unless it was replaced recently. Ask them to check the wiring to and from the fuel pump.

    The other potential issue is that you may have some sort of vacuum leak if the fuel pressure and wiring are OK.

    I have 96 Windstar that had stalling problems. I ended up having to replace the power brake booster. Your mechanic should know more about it than me.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    We don't have Auto Zone in Northern Va. We have Advance, which used to be Track-Auto. Thanks for the tip on the ECU. $145? That's a good price.

    I hope I have a buyer soon on my 99. One of these folks told me that his GC does not like the heat. Mine included. It runs far better, and with noticeably more pep, when it is below 60F. Weird.

    Is it because the air is more dense when cold?
  • jeepjeep97jeepjeep97 Member Posts: 4
  • linrlinr Member Posts: 14
    heres my problem. i have a 1995 jeep grand cherokee 4.0, 6cyl. about 5 months ago i put a bottle of injector cleaner in the gas tank , of course to clean out the injectors. vech. was running fine up till that point. a week or two later, when i would get down on the gas to go around someone, the jeep would surge back and fourth, like it wasn't getting any gas. so i figuered it was the filter. upon changing it, when i disconnected the line from the gas tank side of the filter, it looked like muddy watter runninig out that side. after changing it. the jeep ran good for a week. and then the same thing. so i changed it again. ran good for a month. the jeep ran good untill i got down on it to pass someone. so i changed it again. a month ago it started it again so i changed it for the third time. also i put in new plugs, distributer cap & roter. it runs fine uptill i have to get down on the gas then the surgeing starts. the i have to back off. could it be that this injector cleaner stuff loosened up so much gunk in the gas tank that now i might need a new fuel punp? any replys would help, thanks.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    edited January 2012
    You will have to pull the tank and inspect it. It's a 2 man job and you need a ventilated area. I can almost guarantee you will have gunk and who know's where it is lodged.

    I have replaced several oil pans on older vehicles and I always find a lot of gunk on the pickup screen which I clean.

    Ask your auto parts what you should use to clean it. Maybe a spray can of carburetor cleaner?

    I have a 97 Jeep 4.0L I6, 186,000 and my injectors and fuel pump are OK. I have never put injector cleaner in it.

    There might be a product that can clean the injectors which connects to the fuel rail
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    You have done something with good intentions that was bad for your car. ! Varnish (the code name for gunk) was on the fuel lines and tank surfaces. The cleaner in the product you used loosened years of accumulation all at once gumming up the car fuel system. You may decide to keep the filter change process going until it heals itself or have the tank cleaned and purged.
  • rees21rees21 Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM BUT ITS THE LEFT REAR WINDOW I JUST WONT TO KNOW IF U FIND OUT THE PROBLEM IF SO PLEASE EMAIL BACK
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    check fuel line pressure..mebee th fuel pump's going out..
    ..or the screen at the bottom of the pump got clogged when all that junk broke free..? thats why i wont run cheap gas-even tho my-98 5.2 REALLY likes gas!!.. my best reading on th trip comp has been 17=and averages 15mpg..
    with gas averaging 4-headed for 5 buks per, the 10,20 cents per gal diffrence aint worth the worry...

    I buy th marathon premium--they put the injector cleaner in at the fuel depot !
  • linrlinr Member Posts: 14
    thank you for your reply. could you tell me how to check the fuel pressure, and what i will need to do this.
  • linrlinr Member Posts: 14
    my gas tank is plastic
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    You will need a fuel pressure gauge with a line and fitting that is compatible with the test fitting on the fuel rail. The fitting should look like the fitting on an old bicycle tire. Get the Haynes manual. Check out HarborFreight.com for a good price or try your local auto parts retailer.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    edited January 2012
    rwenger's right...a gauge hooked to th fuel rail.. also-with all th water contaminating your fuel,is someone perhaps putting something in your tank?? maybe a locking cap might be a solution??

    one other thought.. check the evaporation can looks like a coffe can up near the radatior on most could be your jeep might've gone swimming..and still has water in the line that vents the tank?
  • linrlinr Member Posts: 14
    thanks for your reply. i will check into that also. but you know she ran fine up untill i put the little bottle of injection cleaner into the gas tank. my thoughts are that all that gunk in the tank came loose. and thats when my problems started.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    If gunk came out...its a Bi**h to pinpoint where. If I was at the shop I would replace the fuel filter...then road test. If problem persists, then injector cleaning. If it still persists, then fuel pump. Sorry you are having such trouble.

    -Chris
  • adiosadios Member Posts: 1
    i have a statring problem with clicking, i have cahnged battery and starter, car starts most of the time ,then suddenly the clicking. what has started it is moving the gear shift side to side and up and down,takes time for it to work but it always does. what is the permanent fix? anyone?
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    Probably is the "neutral Safety Switch". Could be a bad ground or maybe just a linkage adjustment. None of this is expensive, fortunately.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    if it only clicks once-while turning the key from "on" to "start",yea,the neutral safety switch.. if not,like a dead battery,check for oxidation on all four battery cables..
    ...one thought--check th connector on th transmission-i think thats where they hide the safety switch..fill it with non-conductive-dielectric grease-and use it on every bulb you replace as well...couldn't hurt,and might help! :shades:
  • linrlinr Member Posts: 14
    that was my first thought was the filter. the first filter i changed, looked like muddy water running out the tank side. ran good for a week. then changed another filter, fuel looked better. still the same problem, jerking and jumping in passing gear. changed the filter for the third time. same thing. so before i install new injectors. i think i will take down the gas tank , give it a cleaning and a new pump. then new injectors. aye
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Yeah, pull the tank. It may be rusted out on top. One of the issues with the WJ (99 to 04) GC's was water leaking in the tailgate and rusting the contacts of the bulbs in the taillight's. I am wondering if the same is happening to you, but worse. Or, if you live in an area that gets a lot of snow, and therefore a lot of salt/road treatment. Since the spare is right over the gas tank, I wonder if water has gathered in the "tub" where the spare sits. You have gotta take the spare out to drop the tank anyway.

    Just throwing idea's out to see if we can :sick: nail down the source of the problem.

    (BTW, I clean out the bulb contacts about every three months. The bulb is almost never the problem).
  • linrlinr Member Posts: 14
    ok mine's a 95 jgc. the spare tire stands upright on the inside of the vech. wall. like i said in a post before when i added the (lucas) injector cleaner to the plastic gas tank, thats when all the crap was woken up in my tank. i inhearitad this jeep from an old room mate for no rent are other bills. who knows what old girl friend could have put crap into the gas tank. but it runs fine , untill i hit passing gear. tell me if you thiunk im wrong but i think the fuel pump maybe got alot of crud stuck to it.
  • yamahafryamahafr Member Posts: 1
    Okay, so I'm having this problem with my 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 liter. It will shift throughout all the gears just fine when it is not up to operating temp. Once it gets to operating temp (210), it will not shift into 3rd gear. sometimes I can get it to shift into 3rd if I put it in neutral and back in gear. But it will downshift just fine. Help
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    sounds like the trans filter is plugged up.. also,time to change the trans fluid.
    checked th local "quicky lube"-and they wanted $250 for a trans flush-witch is suposed to backflush th filter,along with replacing ALL th fluid,where pulling th pan,leaves two quarts in th torque converter.. while not a remedy for worn clutch packs,it might help..
    it's amazing how folks change th crankcase oil religously,but ignore th trans fluid/?? mebee at least every other year?? :confuse:
  • do_drummerdo_drummer Member Posts: 2
    Okay, well to update you on what I've done to it since my last post, I've put new plug wires, a new battery, and a new fuel filter in the jeep. It still dies after 15 min of running. I do have the intermittent check engine light after I let it get to the point of dying. Upon close inspection of the exhaust system, I have a severely damaged exhaust manifold (as in a huge crack that fills the engine and cab with exhaust in about 15min). Since there's an O2 sensor directly downstream of this leak, I think that might be the issue. I've ordered a replacement SS manifold with gaskets off ebay for like 80 bucks free shipping. We'll see if this does the trick (fingers crossed). Thanks for the suggestion. If this doesn't work, I'll definitely check out the O2 sensors. My jeep is the V6 version and the sensors at O'Reily's are like $60. Still, that's money I don't want to spend unless I have to.
  • rwengrrwengr Member Posts: 177
    My guess is you have an operating pressure problem that for some reason, does not become significant until the tranny fluid gets hot.

    Make sure you have absolutely no leaks, especially the trans cooler lines. They should be bone dry. I believe leaks affect the pressure.

    I think you can rule out an electrical fault.

    I have a 97 and believe it or not Autozone had new trans cooler lines in stock. They were a pain, but not to bad to replace. You may need a spcecial tool to disconnect them at the transmission.
  • wildslydiewildslydie Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same issue right now. if you find out i would like to know too. :(
  • matty12matty12 Member Posts: 1
    My dash lights up with all the waring lights from time to time. I took it to AutoZone and they put a scanner on it and told me my EGR Valve and Senor are bad. I cannot locate the parts for my Jeep and now questioning weather that is the problem. My Jeep runs fine. Hope someone here has and idea.
  • redhead96redhead96 Member Posts: 1
    I trade my car for this the buddy said the oxy sensor needed to be replaced and muffler put back on. Muffler hasn't been put on yet. Several people said it could different things. It idles kinda ruff at times, stall twice as i was driving it, when you go to step on the gas it bogs out and acts like it wants to stall. Going up hill is a no go, on big hills it will almost come to a complete stop cuz it has no power at all. We replaced the throttle post sensor, oxy sensor and the fuel filter, still no better, its a 318 v8 and the check engine light is on.. Any idea's??? Putting the exhaust on it today.
  • rottlyrottly Member Posts: 2
    get the jeep it will run longer by far than either one of those and we really need to stop buying non-american vehicle's even if they are used KEEP AMERICA WORKING or we will be mexico...now that im off my soapbox.i have owned 8 jeeps all from 10k miles to 280k miles at the time of purchase and ALL of them have been great any only had 2 problems which jeep took care of both of them call nissan or toyota and ask for good will n see how far that gets ya hahaha window regulator on my 2006 liberty went out at 85k they replaced ALL of them for free cause it was a known problem 2006 commander had surface rust on hood well paint was bubbling so there would have been rust soon @50k jeep took care of that to both out of warranty i had a 1996 cherokee with 580,000 miles when i sold it ORIGINAL motor and tranny show me another suv like that jeep is tough and reliable cant beat them and they hold there value like a caddy...why would they hold there value o ya cause they are awesome vehicles
  • rottlyrottly Member Posts: 2
    does your oil look milky?is there white smoke coming from exhaust?take your radiator cap off and look at the coolant in the radiator wile it is running(do not do it with hot engine make sure engine is cool or you will get hot coolant on your face)if you see any of these things you have a blown head gasket/cracked head. but no its definately not because of your o2 sensor or muffler could be a clogged cat may soo look for a clogged cat all the symptoms i listed then if non of that helps do a compression check
  • lijeepowner1lijeepowner1 Member Posts: 1
    Our 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo (V6) check engine light came on during our first cold spell about two weeks ago. Mechanic said he saw code for "heater failure" but kept it all day and it ran fine. Mechanic also said they checked it over and could not figure out why the light went on because it was running perfectly fine. All gauges were fine and no fluids leaking or low. Needed an inspection for NYS so I had to wait 30 miles and drove it 60 miles in a week with no problems. Had inspection done a week ago and it passed. Last week, noticed squeaky belt noise on idle at traffic stops a few times but chalked it up to extreme cold again as car ran fine. Today, put on heater and noticed a slight burning smell when I exited car. Got back in car five minutes later and noticed nothing leaking. Got back in car, turned on heat and noticed temp gauge just starting to creep from dead middle to slightly right but not higher. Turned off heat and it started to creep back down and stay left of middle. Now I am paranoid there is a problem. Does this sound all normal or am I correct in suspecting an issue?
  • airboy182airboy182 Member Posts: 1
    um yeah with the heater on that needle should NOT move! it is normal for it to do that when you run the a/c but not the heat, you need to have that looked at...and if he says its fine, slap him in the face and go to a new shop....
  • squirl033squirl033 Member Posts: 3
    okay, so this will sound a little weird, but i'm gonna throw it out there anyway... i have '93 GC Laredo with the 4.0L engine and SelecTrac transmission, which i leave in 2WD 90% of the time, unless i'm off in the toolies. i bought the car in late 2007, and the first two years or so i had the car, it was getting something around 15mpg city, and 25-28 in freeway driving, but it idled real rough, stumbled, and sometimes stalled. the rough and stumble went away as soon as the throttle came off idle, and it ran fine as long as i wasn't stuck at a stoplight too long. anyway, i took it in in august of 2010 for repairs, they found a vacuum leak, which they fixed, and now the idle is much better - still not super smooth, but better. but my mileage now is down around 11-12 in city and 18-19 on the highway. my driving habits didn't change...

    the fact that i was getting over 15 city/25 highway tells me the car is CAPABLE of that kind of performance. how would fixing a vacuum leak cause it to drop like that? more to the point, how can i get it back???
  • dageorgiudageorgiu Member Posts: 1
    edited February 2012
    So i was givin a jeep to me from a friend last week, and been fixing this left and right on it. So my last problem that i cannot figure out to fix, is that my driver side door wont lock, (and the door actuator is dead i know i have to repalce but not worring about it now) it closes and stay closed but when i put the key into the door and turn it to lock it. it turns (but it bounces back a little bit, it doesn't feel it clicking when u make that full turn) but doesnt lock.. does anyone know of a DIY write up w/ photos plz if possiable. on how to fix this problem. or know what i need to replace to make this door once again lock.

    Thanks.
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