Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
It has been sluggish to turn over, I thought perhaps because it was cold out.
I had my battery and alternator checked today. The Alternator was charging, but I had to replace the battery. It was old, so I thought nothing of it.
I started it tonight, and turned on the heat. When I am parked using heat it made the battery gauge drop a bit, while still parked I turned on defrost and it really dropped down to a little above 9. So I shut off the defrost, and drove- while driving I tried it again. It drops slightly below 14. Sometimes when i turn on defrost belt seems to squeak- if this matters. What is causing this? Is it safe? Any ideas?
we have a 2012 jeep grand Cherokee with a panoramic moon roof. I never thought about this before buying, but we use a soft roof top cargo carrier attached to the cross-bars. Its not loaded with heavy stuff, just beach towels and duffel bags with clothes. I am not sure I am comfortable with it sitting on the back part of the moon roof. Dealership doesn’t think it will be a problem.
Does anyone have any thoughts or experience with this?
--also,the guy who suggested the kerosene for your crankcase (5w30) i will NEVER put that carp in my engine!! see,i need my engine to last past the warranty.. it's currently sitting on 150k,and no rattles ...yet!!
#12 of 19 Re: 95 Jeep Problem Electrical [ancobaca] by mark512
May 24, 2011 (6:11 am)
Replying to: ancobaca (Apr 03, 2009 8:48 am)
Check fuse #8! (I'm pretty sure it was #8--it was definitely a 15 amp fuse.)
I had a very similar problem with a 95 Grand Cherokee. It all started when turning off an overhead light. A relay near the passenger's feet was clicking rapidly when a door was open; radio worked intermittently; an aftermarket CD changer didn't work; info display in front of gear shift didn't work; interior lights blinked dimly, even when they should have been off; power door locks didn't work. The car drove fine, but the electrical system was going crazy. It turned out that this was all caused by one blown fuse.
Good luck!
Now, when I hit that button it skips the list and takes me right to the Fuel economy screen. I can't get back to the list of options like to reset some of the driver settings. No matter what I do, I can't get back to the list. When I hit the back button, it goes back to the standard blank information screen.
It's really annoying. Someone suggested resetting the electronics cluster by doing something (there is a button in the battery case in the engine compartment?). But that seems excessive.
Any suggestions?
I recently bought a really tidy 2008 Auto limited cherokee and absolutely love it. Im still getting used to many of it features and capabilities.
One small problem I live in australia and do quite alot of beach driving getting to surf spots and the other day my transmission high temp light lit up.. I read the manual and figured that it was becasue on the sand i wasnt getting enough purchase and the transmission was working hard to select the right gear. Im just wondering if it was becasue it was nearly 40 degree celsius (which equates to 110F) and because i was going pretty hard or do I need another cooler on the transmission. I resolved the problem by putting her into 1st and creeping home.
Thanks heaps guys and look forward to hearing back
Proud Jeep owner Josh
I purchased the rebuilt PCM from Auto Computer Exchange who programmed the new PCM based on my VIN. I disconnected the battery before I performed the procedure. I have checked and rechecked all the connections and everything seems to be in order.
Is anyone aware of anything that needs to be done after replacing the PCM that I may be missing?
Any ideas would be welcome as we are about to make a return trip of 1000 miles in a few days and I don't want to get stranded in the middle of nowhere on 95.
--on a suggestion from this verry board,i disconnected the sensor for the back window-aparently,this sensor was glued on during assembly,and after twenty-some years,the glue breaks down..have seen more than my jeep do this,and i try to tell them what i did..nothing more aggrevating than be shopping,and your truck is screaming in the parking lot..
after i unplugged that sensor,i've had three years without trouble!! :shades:
1) Does anyone else have a "squeaking" driver's seat? My JGC has 20,000 (easy) miles on it, and it makes little, but noticeable, squeaks or creaking noises whenever I take a corner or adjust in the seat. Frankly it sounds like poor workmanship, but I don't really see a "bolt" or anything to easily tighten that would solve the problem. We have a 2008 Honda Pilot with 100,000 (harder) miles on it, and no squeaks in the seats; same with my previous vehicle - an '05 Acura TL with ~85,000 miles. I'm scratching my head over this problem. It's still under warranty, but I don't see how the dealer is going to fix this; and even if they replace the seat, my hunch is Jeep will replace it with one of equal quality.
2) The Goodyear Fortera's are HORRIBLE in heavy rain - I mean HORRIBLE!!! It's a little better in snow, but still pales in comparison to our Honda Pilot. I've never experienced anything like it. For now I'm chalking it up to the tires, and not blaming Jeep (though I've shared my concern with their corporate office). What happens during heavy rains is that when I hit any sort of pooled water in the road (and we're not talking Noah's Ark type of water...we're talking a minor low spot in the road that accumulates maybe 1" or so of water), the Jeep pulls hard to the side of the road with the water. And I'm talking HARD. When I first encountered this my son and I were driving back from up north towing our boat behind us, in a rain storm (again, heavy rain, but not biblical proportions). We hit a puddle in the highway going ~55 mph and I thought the wheel was ripped out of my hands it cranked so hard and so fast. No other vehicles in front of us reacted like ours, and I watched the headlights behind us for quite a while, and no other vehicles reacted the same way. Has anyone else had any issues with these Fortera's? If so, what did you switch to, and what's working well for tires?
Thanks.
Everyone's experience may differ. I've had several vehicles with moonroofs, and all had >100,000 miles - never had an issue with them. And this isn't including my 1979 Ford Pinto with a sunroof - never had a problem with that thing either!
I have an 04 WJ as well, the AC has been giving me some work lately.
In relation to the Fan Relay, mine is not located under the passenger's side headlight, mine is a 2WD standard package. I did see the 2 relays near the battery, but decided not to touch them, instead I hot wired the fan.
The fan was not spinning (mine has a 3 pin connector as well), so I decided to take out the fan completely and buy a replacement (either fan or motor only). Once out I hot wired the motor only, to my surprised it spinned.
So I disassembled the motor entirely, notice you need to be careful putting it back together. The purpose was to clean it from the inside, I assembled it again and tested it, I was again surprised by an annoying noise from the motor on both speeds (yes the 3 pin connector means 2 speeds).
So I unassembled the motor again (fan motor, is the only motor I am making reference to), and found out one of the inside field poles (lets call them poles) was positioned incorrectly. I put clean it all over again, I used some wd40 to make the moving parts move smooth, and I also notice the poles are a little worn (2 of them, there are 4), so I am guessing the motor is about to fail.
Continuing, I assembled the motor, and tested it, worked fine.
Put it inside the fan shroud, tested it, worked fine.
Assembled the fan, tested it again, worked fine.
Assembled the entire fan in the jeep, plug it in, and worked fine.
So I installed only 3 screws, that last one everyone hates to take out can screw itself, because I am not going to...
why? something tells me is going to happen again, the fain will fail, I think is dying.
So, the fan is working ok right now, the AC is engaging normally, and the temperature is staying below the 210 degrees mark.
cost. $0, just a little scratch on my right hand finger.
However, I did change the oil, air filter, and thermostat.
Thinking the thermostat was the reason. I must tell you, I used the commercial kind before, the temperature was reaching a little over 210 before it cool down. This time I went Mopar only (both thermostat and gasket), and spot on.. 195 degrees,and it kicks in.
I also got spark plugs while at the dealer (I got a straight 6, so that's the next project, the advantage about the Mopar plugs, they are already calibrated to the WJ specs).
Thermostat, gasket, and 6 plugs, about $60
Oil (premium fully synthetic), K&N oil filter, and Fram air filter $55.
Next weekend, flush radiator and change spark plugs.... hopefully only labor.
Thanks for reading, and happy work out in your jeeps fellas !!!
Take the damn thing to the shop before it burns up.
I checked the Service Manual for a failure code P0705 but could not find that code listed. I found a code for P0850-PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH PERFORMANCE.
Theory of Operation
The Park Neutral switch rationality test is enabled only for vehicles equipped with a 4/5 speed automatic transmission. This diagnostic checks if the park/neutral switch is incorrectly stuck in the neutral position during driving conditions by comparing Vehicle Speed, Engine Speed, Throttle Position, and Pressure Ratio to the fail thresholds and by looking at the state of the Park/Neutral Switch. The stuck in drive condition is not explicitly checked as the starter relay does not energize and therefore render the vehicle inoperable.
This code will set if the PCM detects an incorrect Park/Neutral switch state for a given mode of vehicle operation. Two trip fault. Three good trips to turn off the MIL.
Possible Causes:
TRS (T41) SENSE (P/N SENSE) CIRCUIT OPEN
TRS (T41) SENSE (P/N SENSE) CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)
The transmission solenoid/TRS assembly is internal to the transmission and mounted on the valve body assembly. The solenoid/TRS assembly also contains the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) and five pressure switches that feed information to the TCM.
Hope this helps.
Lisa
Customer Care
Chrysler Group LLC
The code never reappeared after that, but in all honesty they replaced the PCM and the ECU too so who knows. Thank god I had the warranty.
I do know that other than that problem the transmission performed admirably until I sold it.
Jeep shop manual says "heat with torch until red hot and then rotate". There is no way that is going to happen because exhaust pipe has an alignment rivet and that mates to a notch in the converter tube. Had to cut converter. You can only slide the tubing. You can't rotate it to break it loose.
In addition, converter tube has a crease that mates with exhaust pipe crease, creating a crimp effect.
After 15 years, converter tubing and pipe are bonded.
Any suggestions? I hate to replace front exhaust pipe
Do most of it DIY, and leave the tough stuff to Midas. They have the tools, the tricks, and the specialized experience/equipment.
Plus you know so much about the problem that there is no way they can overcharge you. Just pay a half hour labor and parts from the junkyard.
Maybe $75 and it would all be right as rain.
Hope this helps :sick:
Anyway, I had purchased the extended warranty, knowing that the GC had a history of drivetrain ailments. I loved the truck and the dealer really hooked me up.
For a $200 co-pay and 4 visits the mechanic; he finally found the real issue (he said there were almost 15 things that could have been the source of my truck's problem).
So, Safford Dodge replaced everything short of a rebuild. The light went off, and I had no issues at all with the trans from then on. I did have to replace the 4 oxygen sensors in 2011 before I sold it , but other than that she was dead on reliable. Great Truck.
For the heck of it, check the rear brakes to make sure they're not dragging and making noise. Hope this helps you out.
Tony