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Hyundai Santa Fe Maintenance and Repair (2006 and earlier)

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Comments

  • hutt2hutt2 Member Posts: 1
    Purchased 2005 Santa Fe from dealer after 2 weeks later I purchased mud guards from the dealer. Tried to install them but seems no. doesn't match the no. on bag think the dealer screwed up or are they all universal. Also any hints to install them Hutt2
  • tappedouttappedout Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 santa fe has cost me tooo Much. I purchased the extended warranty the day My family bought 2 new santa fe's one on each. Our dealer ripped us off by selling us an after market warranty that isn't worth the paper it's printed on. But he gave us a real deal. Not knowing anything about warranties, we thought it was the offical Hyundai warranty as that is what we asked for! Silly me!! I had done all my homework about the car, before going to the dealership, and didn't find out about this PROBLEM until the milage hit the 50,000 mark. What warranty. This past year my car had cost my over $2000 above the normal . My driver side electric window fell into the door, A bolt had come loose, not broken, cost to me for repair, $135.00 labor. November I took my car in for a leaking power steering hose. Cost at dealership to replace $341.00. Same time I had some noise in my front end. They said I needed Stabilize brackets and bush stablizer. Total cost for parts $7.86, labor cost $270.00. Just to let you know, this is a different dealership then the one I bought the warranty at. right now it is in the dealership for the trans of course, the part it needed isn't covered, or the labor. It still has the 100,000 Hyundai engine trans warranty. Do you see a problem? I have contacted Hyundai, but had no response. I will never buy another one. ">
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    I like to respond to these warranty issues. If I follow your post correctly you have a 2001 (more than 5 years old) Santa Fe that has more than 50,000 miles. You bought an extended or aftermarket warranty that you now expect to cover your "more or less normal for an older car" repairs. You have found that the extended warranty is useless for those repairs...does this pretty much cover it? Oh, I forgot..you are blaming Hyundai and since you have not received any guidance from them you now "will never buy another one". OK if that is accurate then lets look at the issues.
    1) you bought something that, as you have found, is basically worthless and that "something" is most extended warranties. Admittedly, through your own ignorance about such things. This warranty is not connected to Hyundai even though you may have purchased it through your selling dealer. There are companies whose business is marketing and selling these to people like you. They may be reasonably good if you need them, they may duplicate services during the time frame the actual Hyundai warranty is in effect, the company may fold and disappear leaving you with nothing, or they may cover things that may never need service and ignore common repair items....It has been determined that you should not buy these extended warranties, generally they don't give you any extra protection as you have found.
    2) Since your car is older than 5 years and has more than 50K miles it is no longer covered by the original Hyundai 50K/5year bumper to bumper warranty.
    3) The parts you have been repairing and replacing are not uncommon or unusual to possibly need replaced in ANY 5 year old car. The window problem is somewhat unusual but not unheard of...power steering hoses are under high pressure at all times so a leak there is expected sooner or later and 5 years isn't unusual...the rubber stabilizer bushings are exposed to all road hazards, rain, salt, snow, gravel,basically everything you drive through or over so for the rubber to harden and deteriorate, again isn't unusual.
    4) labor costs almost always exceed the cost of the part..again this applies to any manufacturer or brand.
    5) "do you see a problem?" Yes, I sure do...the problem is you purchased something about which you had no knowledge and when it didn't perform as you had been expecting put the blame on Hyundai who had nothing to do with the product you purchased and when they didn't respond (rightly so) you have condemned Hyundai. You are also experiencing normal "older car" problems and find you need to pay for repairs..what a surprise!!! You are out of the 50K/5year Hyundai warranty period which is clearly stated on every piece of Hyundai literature.
    I like Hyundai products and since they already provide the most comprehensive warranty in the auto industry I am amused when persons such as yourself loudly proclaim you will never buy another when in fact nothing unusual has occurred...except you got suckered into buying a mostly worthless extended warranty, nevermind that Hyundai didn't sponsor it. Good luck on your new whatever.
  • billysbeepbillysbeep Member Posts: 21
    had the same problem,close the moonroof about 6 inches while traveling at high speed.The wind delecter works alright but wont solve the problem Bill
  • melodic777melodic777 Member Posts: 2
    just wondering why this thing won't stay on the correct date. I know its a trivial issue but its there for a reason and I want it to work properly. I've tried to set the clock 12 hours ahead and 12 hours back incase that had anything to do with the date changing when its supposed to. I even changed the date at Midnight (my time) and it still changed in the middle of the day.....anyone know what's up with that?
    Thanks
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    There is a Hyundai TSB (technical service bulletin)#03-90-019 issued in 09/2003 to spell out how to do this. Since this TSB was issued in 2003 I assume the updated information would have been included in the owners booklet of newer cars but if not...
    1)Description:
    The calendar on the overhead console must be set to the correct time to ensure the date will change at midnight. If the internal clock is not properly set the date may change at an incorrect time each day.
    2.)Procedure:
    A)First, set the internal clock of the digital calendar.
    a)Press and hold the "M" button for at least 3 seconds until the digits for the HOUR blink.
    b.)Use the UP or DOWN button to adjust the hour accordingly to military time (example 3=3AM, 15=3PM)
    c.)Press the "M" button to set the MINUTES and the press the UP or DOWN button to adjust the minutes.
    d.)Press the "M" button when finished.
    3.)Next, set the date of the digital calendar.
    a.)Press the "M" button to display a blinking YEAR, use the UP or DOWN button to adjust the year.
    b.)Press the "M" button again to display a blinking MONTH, use the UP or DOWN button to adjust the MONTH
    c.)Press the "M" button again to display a blinking DAY, use the UP or DOWN button to adjust the DAY.
    d.) Press the "M" button once again when finished.

    For your information military time is based on a 24 hour format where midnight is 00...1 AM is 0100...2 AM is 0200 etc. and noon is 1200hrs and 1PM is 1300 hrs and 2PM is 1400 hrs etc.
    Basically the overhead calendar has its own internal clock that needs to be set along with the current date (month..day...year). Hope this info helps all who have wondered how to do this.
  • mgblazermgblazer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Santa Fe with almost 87k on it. Yesterday, I put it in drive, and I noticed the D lit up and also the 1 lit. It would not shift, so I put it in neutral & back to Drive as I was moving and it shifted to 2, then I had to do the same thing for 3 & 4 gear, all the while the D & the # staying lit. Now today, I had to do the same thing, only 1 time the # stayed off and it shifted by itself, then anoter time I had my blinker on and the # blinked on and off with the blinker. Tranny fluid is fine, up to level and nice and red. Any ideas?
  • rick42rick42 Member Posts: 9
    We are 99% sure about buying 2006 Santa Fe limited, but my wife has 1 complaint. The head rest hits her wrong. Can the head rest be turned around? I know it won't stay up if it's flipped, but we'd never pull it up anyway. On most cars the head rest will pull completly out. Will the Santa Fe's come out.

    And also, are most of you happy with the Santa Fe? We were thinking of the Tucson, but she hates not having a power seat.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    It sounds as though the shiftronic function is intruding into the strictly automatic function. As you know when the shift lever is slid right you enter "Shiftronic" mode with the ability to manually up-and-downshift (within preprogrammed RPM parameters) by bumping the lever forward + or back - . There is something that defines which you are in...either fully automatic or Shiftronic and they work differently. I do not know what that "something" is but clearly your transmission control module is confused as to which mode it is in. A trip to your dealer may be required but I think it may be something external to the transmission...possibly the "something" that defines to the transmission which mode it is in.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    In the interest of safety I would not reverse the headrest. I would guess that a fair amount of engineering went into it to reduce whiplash type injuries. You may want to check out the totally revised 2007 Santa Fe due out soon. More expensive but much more car too!!
  • melodic777melodic777 Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the help.......it worked and this minor pain in the [non-permissible content removed] has been resolved!
  • heavytimeheavytime Member Posts: 2
    My santy with 25,000 miles on seems to get stuck in gear and will not upshift into drive on the highway, it's intermittent .I also get a 3 shudders when i accelerate from a stand still also intermittent . Also i have had some serious vibrations when i reach 60mph.I noticed the vibrations when i bought it used at 11k miles and took it back and they surfaced the rotors which lasted a little while.I took it to another dealer and they wanted to flush transmission fluid for $220.00 which i declined.Im pretty sure this would not solve my problem and didn't want to spend the money since ive seen some similar post.All these symptoms happen at the same time. I also noticed a smell when i stoped. Anyone with any solutions? Thanks
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    Which gear does it get "stuck" in? You can tell what gear the transmission is in at any given time by simply slipping the shift lever right (when in "D") which places it into Shiftronic mode. At that time the indicator on the dash will change from "D" to the specific gear you are in i.e. 5-4-3-2-1. If you have a 2.7 V-6 top gear or overdrive will be 4...if you have a 3.5 liter V-6 top gear will be 5. Although the transmission should be in overdrive at highway speeds (over 55 mph)conditions may dictate that it temporarily be in a lower gear. If, while in Shiftronic mode you find that it is "3" for instance you can manually upshift to "4" but don't forget to then slip the lever back left to re-enter the automatic mode of the transmision. If nothing else you can see what gear you are in. That you "notice a smell" is pretty broad...what does it smell like? any light smoke or vapors? Transmission fluid clean clear red colored with no burned smell on the dipstick...does it show full on the stick...??? Lots of variables that may be unanswerable on a forum type format.
  • heavytimeheavytime Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. It gets stuck in 3rd gear and the front end will start to vibrate.I Checked Trans fluid and it is fine.It's very strange.The smell is hard to describe.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    OK..if it stays in 3rd beyond when you would expect it to upshift into 4th...wait does it EVER shift into 4th or only beyond when you would have expected it to? If it truly absolutely won't upshift, even if you remove throttle pressure esentially putting it under no/light load then place it into Shiftronic mode viewing the current gear on the dash display (3rd presumably) then bump the shifter to the "+" or forward..the transmission should then, by your command, upshift to 4th gear. There is also a vehicle speed sensor that "tells" the transmission control module what the road speed verses engine RPM is and to upshift at specified points. Bad news is that modern vehicles have so many inputs that monitor everything from ambient temperature to engine temperature to RPM to road speed to cause all the onboard computers to function properly that is is virtually impossible to self diagnose these types of glitches. It may be traced to the transmission control module itself. This is where having a savvy dealer service network is very important. There is test equipment (OBD-II) that can and will track down, via failure codes stored, these frustrating problems.
  • cfunkycfunky Member Posts: 3
    can someone help me? my santa fe 2004, the clock keeps turning itself off. just blank screen, then it will come back on about 5 seconds later. I had radio and heater on and nothing messed up with them.. only the clock turns off by itself and comes back on with correct time. Is this a electical problem ?? cfunky
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    There's been a couple of faulty clock reports in here. Like this post:

    beverly, "Hyundai Santa Fe: Problems & Solutions" #733, 16 Jun 2004 9:48 am

    May just need to replace it.

    Steve, Host
  • cfunkycfunky Member Posts: 3
    thanks for the quick info steve. cfunky
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    Since I experienced the blank out display on a 2003 SF I can say with certainty it is a faulty clock. Mine was replaced under warranty....end of problem.
  • cfunkycfunky Member Posts: 3
    targettuning, thanks for your help/reply..cfunky
  • kiucoolkiucool Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2002 Santa Fe also. Now I have the same problem as you do. It is hard to start. Have you ever find out what happened to your Santa Fe?
  • glabersglabers Member Posts: 1
    Hi folks - Got a 2002 Sante fe. I started getting these 2 warnings the last 2 weeks or so. I start the car, drive about 15 minutes and they come on at the same time and stay on untill I turn off the engine. Start it again, same thing.. 10-15 minutes later.

    I read about them in the owners manual and they represent Anti-lock braking system and Traction Control system... Of course, it really only reads to get service, but what's that really mean? Can anyone elaborate on what the issue is, warranty coverage if there's a broblem?

    Also, are struts covered in the 60K 5yr bump-to-bump warranty? These things died I think after about 6 months and have since sounded like I have a bowling ball in the trunk while hitting bumps.

    I'm also a victem of squeeky brakes since day one, had the brakes serviced many times and an entire break job $700... still get the squeekies.. only goes away when I exceed 25 MPH.

    Thanks!
    Dan
  • scieszkascieszka Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 and 3 months after I got it a crack formed on the left corner of the windshield and created a semi-circle crack. The dealer stated something hit it and wasn't covered. Nothing hit the windshield. Yesterday the same thing appeared on the other side of the widshield in exactly the same spot but this time headed straight the right side. I'm sure the dealer is going to tell me 'something hit it'.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    Ok, regarding the ABS and TC warning light issue. I do not believe traction control was available in 2002 but became standard in 2003. Why then do you have the warning? TC was available in other than USA markets in 2002 (there are many features available in Europe/Asia/Middle East that are not necessarily available in the US) and since the traction control works by incorporating the ABS function it makes financial sense to use the same basic instrument cluster package so you have a TC warning lamp even though you may not have it..do you follow? You DO have ABS however and if its warning lamp illuminates you probably have a problem. The brakes work normally but the ABS function does not when the light is on. If the Santa Fe is configured as most with ABS it has the following: wheel speed sensors (4ea.one per wheel)an ABS controller or computer, and a ABS hydraulic/motor module..this last is underhood on the right (passenger) side near the fender well and has 4 metal brake lines sprouting from it. At minimum a single wheel sensor may have crapped out and repairs get more extensive and expensive from there. But, the good thing is that the ABS computer WILL store fault codes pertaining to the ABS brake system and a tech at the dealer using a code reader will be able to pinpoint the fault.
    With regard to the struts..you do not say how many miles on the car but struts in any car have a finite life meaning that they will need to be replaced. They should have lasted beyond 6 months however. Check for oil leaks around each strut because they are oil filled. Since they are what is considered a "normal wear item" I do not know if they are covered by warranty...they may be but do not be surprised if they are not.
    On the squeeky brakes, it is NOT abnormal for modern brakes to make noise mostly due to the fact that asbestos has been removed from brake materials and the substitute is metallic powdered material. So, unless this is a major issue for you and you do say it subsides after 25 MPH you may have to live with it, unless you are willing to change the pads one more time using a ceramic material. Hope this sheds some light on your concerns..
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    Broken and cracked windshields can be a tricky situation. Some cracks can be traced to a stone hit with line radiating from that point however it sounds as though your may be a stress crack. Further, the windshield may not be covered in Hyundai's (or any other manufacturer for that matter)warranty simply because of its "in the line of fire" nature. At best the windshield would only be covered for a limited time probably the 12 month/12,000 mile part of the warranty as a faulty originally installed part if it failed within that time frame. Your car is 3 model years old and given the fact it probably HAS been stone hit sometime in the past which could have contributed to your crack even years later I would not expect the dealer to warranty the part.
  • rick42rick42 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks to all of you for helping me decide what to buy. Both in this site and the Tucson site. Just bought my wife a new Santa Fe Limited...and she loves it.
  • paula0567paula0567 Member Posts: 1
    I had the exact same thing happen to my windshield two weeks ago. I got on the internet to see if common problem. It was really strange because I know nothing hit it, and it came from bottom of glass under hood and spread half circle low all the way across in two days. I have had my Sante Fe three years in September, but I only have eighteen thousand miles on it.

    Also, I have had the same calendar problems almost since I got it. I know it is under warranty. I just haven't taken it in yet.

    Anyone else with windshield problems?
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    I hope my prior post helped you set the calendar on the overhead display, or if you had the display blanking out problem the solution is a new clock.
    I have not heard about a widespread problem with windshield cracks but if you are sure nothing has recently hit it then it could be a stress derived crack where flex may start a crack in a curved section of the glass. As I previously stated glass breakage isn't warranted beyond (I'm guessing on this) the basic 12 month/12,000 mile period. You need to call the dealer for the facts on this but don't be disappointed it it is no longer covered.
  • kennyjohnkennyjohn Member Posts: 2
    Hi

    did you ever find out what caused the hard starting on the sante fe?
  • kennyjohnkennyjohn Member Posts: 2
    I am having the same problem with hard starting, have you had a repair yet?
  • fmre4fmre4 Member Posts: 9
    Here's a good one...

    Last week our Santa Fe (22,400 miles) would not start.
    It turned over, but wouldn't "fire".
    Called the dealer, then roadside.
    Vehicle was then taken to the dealer via rollback.
    I was then told that the car was "flooded, possibly due to the change of weather temp." Yeah, okay...

    So, fast forward this week, and we're going down the road, and the car started to lose and gain power. Then I noticed it knocking - Loudly.

    I took the car directly to the dealer, and am now told that it's bad and might need a new engine.
    Hyundai might want to find what failed and fix it. The dealer is pushing for a new engine.
    So, we'll see...

    As far as maintenance goes, I've taken it to the dealer every 3,000 miles religiously for oil and misc. check ups, so that's not an issue, thankfully.

    I'm not sure what the correlation is between the car not starting last week, and it "blowing up" this week.

    I have to say so far the dealer has been good with this. We've got a decent loaner, and are assured the car will be good as new when it's done.
    For some reason, I feel like the hammer's going to fall, and we'll be entering major dilema.

    Any feedback on what could be the problem with the engine, and if Hyundai will honor "America's Best Warranty" on something so serious?

    Thanks...
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    While it is impossible to connect the earlier no-start condition (at least on line)to the engine failure there are a couple of observations I'd like to make.
    1.) modern engines do not "flood" easily and certainly not due to changing weather conditions or ambient temperatures. You state you have 22.5 K miles on the car and presumably you know how the car works after this time so any significant change in operation isn't due to a lack of knowledge on your part.
    2.) You have done all the recommended maintainance... at the dealer no less, very good for you!! That should make this ordeal as painless as possible.
    3.) Obviously a serious internal problem that sounds like a lack of oil pressure caused terminal engine failure. Did the low oil pressure warning lamp on the dash illuminate prior to the onset of knock? Did ANY warning lamp illuminate as this was going on? Did it overheat badly? actually VERY badly.
    4.) The dealer may be instructed to disassemble the engine to see what happened, how badly damaged it is, if it is possible to economically repair it. Engines can be, and are rebuilt every day. That said, I would want a new short,or long block or even a new crate engine myself. It may be more cost effective to just replace the thing. If it is any consolation I have not heard of any wholesale 3.5 liter engine failures although like any mechanical thing it can..and apparently has to you. I would closely follow the progress and if a cause is established I would want to know exactly why the engine failed. That's just me however as I am intensely curious about my car and want to know all the what's and why's.
    5.) I do believe Hyundai will fix the car "as good as new" under warranty and I don't think there will be any hassles.
    please let me know what transpires and what has been found as to a cause...as I say I am intensely curious.
  • fmre4fmre4 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the reply.
    After the "flooding" incident, my wife and I switched cars, and I drove the Santa Fe to work, etc., up until it went all together.

    I'm one that takes notice of anything that doesn't look or sound normal, so when it acted up (hesitating, then the knocking), I was at the dealer in a matter of minutes.
    There were no warning lights or overheating of any kind, as I made sure to notice. This was the case for the week that I solely drove the car, and on the way to the dealer.

    As I said in my initial post, the dealer told me they're "pushing for a new engine". Certainly, that would suit me, but admittedly, I too am curious as to what failed. (The old motorhead in me still lives,lol)

    I'll call the dealer on Friday, which will be two days since our last conversation.
    Hopefully they'll have an answer as to how they're going to handle things.

    I'll keep you posted, and thanks for the support.
  • jman83jman83 Member Posts: 2
    I have 20,000 miles on my '05 Santa Fe and just recently I had my first issue with it.

    When I turned my heater on, it stayed on regardless of what buttons I pressed. I could adjust it to AC/defrost, the location of where the air comes out, etc. But the airflow was at full blast and would not shut off!! Anyone know what could be causing this? I have checked the fuses and replaced a few, to no avail.

    I spoke with my Hyundai dealer and they seem to think it could be a relay? I don't have a whole lot of time to get to a dealer, so if this is something I can do, I'd rather do it. Help!!

    Thanks in advance.
  • guyfguyf Member Posts: 456
    If an engine is flooded bad enough, the gas in the cylinders can find it's way to the sump and dilute the oil. It's a problem that happened sometimes on old carburator engine's; extremely unfrequent on modern engines.

    While modern car do not have a "choke", the injection system enrich the mixture for cold weather start. If somehow a sensor controlling this system failed, it may (and I emphasize may...) have caused the flooding and subsequently the terminal failure of the engine. But in that case, you should have got a low oil pressure warning light....

    Just speculations.... :confuse:
  • fmre4fmre4 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the reply, I think you're on the right track.
    Funny, I just got home from work and was going to post the exact same possible cause that a co-worker mentioned to me.
    Perhaps a sensor went haywire, sending way too much fuel, and some wound up mixing with the oil??
    A rare occurance, but possibly the root cause nonetheless, as it was most definitely flooded last week. (But certainly not due to a change in weather temp.!)

    I'm sure the last thing the dealer wants to hear is a car owner that "knows it all", but I'm thinking of calling tomorrow, and add that theory to the mix.

    Even if they put a new engine in, they better make darn sure every sensor that has to do with sending and mixing fuel is replaced.
    Maybe that should have been done when it intially flooded last week...

    Thanks again.
  • guyfguyf Member Posts: 456
    The dealer is the one who should have replaced the oil when you brought him your car all flooded. Huyndai may be reticent to cover that under warranty and blame the dealer.

    Make sure not to get caught between the 2....

    Be careful and good luck ;)
  • fmre4fmre4 Member Posts: 9
    Good advice.
    I did call the dealer today, and was told that they're waiting for a visit from an adjustor, which is leaving me a bit suspicious or dare I say, nervous.
    It sounds like some finger pointing is going on between Hyundai higher-ups and the dealer.
    I'm assured that because of the "impeccable" maintenance schedule I kept will keep me out of all that (we shall see).
    The car's never missed an oil change.
    Every 3,000 miles, at the same dealership, and I've got every receipt - Thankfully!

    Before I picked up the car from the initial flooding, I did have them change the oil, as it was at the 3,000 mile mark.

    But...
    Once the car arrived (via rollback), the service advisor "cranked the heck out of it" unitl it started, then he drove it around town for a while.

    When I picked up the car the next day is when the oil was changed.
    Not by their recommendation, but mine. (and my dime, too)

    Assuming the gas mixed with the oil, could that drive around town (by the dealer), prior to the oil change cause irreparable damage?

    It ran fine for the week after until it went all together, but perhaps the damage had already been done...

    I'm anticipating on learning more next week, and I'll post when I do.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oil dilution with fuel would require a rather large amount of fuel in order for that condition to be harmful. "Flooding" only means the spark plugs got wet. Actual "oil dilution" would require so much fuel that your oil level would show higher on the dipstick.

    Besides, as you drive, the fuel in the oil evaporates, providing it is not an excessive amount.

    But yes, large amounts of fuel in the oil could destroy an engine because it washes the cylinders clean, hence no oil protection. But you'd have a huge drop in oil pressure and lots of noise prior to that.
  • tkcoloradotkcolorado Member Posts: 39
    I posted this in another place but no one has even responded or looked at it. Sorry for the cross post, but I need to know whats up prior to buying :)

    Looking for a gently used car and ran across some 01 Santa Fe's and went to check reliabilty ratings. JD powers shows that 4-5 year mechanical dependability is 2/5. MSN Autos shows them as 5/5 with no major issues. Now i'm even MORE confused than I was before.

    Also, ever dealer I have gone to wants WAY over what Edmunds and Kelley are saying the car is worth in excellent (and none so far are what I would consider excellent, but rather clean cars). The only one I have seen within the price ranges of both Kelley and Edmunds has frame damage to it. Why are these things so expensive on lots???

    Can anyone tell me what major problems to expect with these and which reliability rating is more accurate (I haven't even gone to consumer reports yet). I have read reviews out my ying yang and still can't get a good feel for this cars reliability.

    I MUST have a car that is reliable and requires few worries as I am a single parent who has to transport two kids, one who has a developmental disablity. Break downs are not acceptable
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    An asking price is nothing more than the dealer exercising his First Amendment rights. If he's above BOTH Edmunds and Kelley you are definitely paying too much. A dealer, unlike a private party, can sit on a car for a year if he wants. He can also finance and sell the car as "monthly payments" where consumers don't care about the asking price.

    Reliability ratings depend on the size of the test sample and what components they are rating, and how far BACK they are sampling.

    I'd go with Consumer Reports myself. JD Powers are not car people, they are just statisticians. At least Consumer Reports DRIVES the cars.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    I have owned 2 Santa Fe's, a 2002 (2.7 liter V-6 AWD) and a 2003 (3.5 liter V-6 AWD). The worst problem I had was that the 2003 digital clock display failed and randomly blanked out then returned still with the correct time. Clock was replaced under warranty. I didn't accumulate too many miles on either however... about 12,000 0n the 2002 and 10,000 on the 3.5, but a co-worker has a 2001 4 cylinder FWD with about 100K miles and no significant problems. Funny that you should comment on resale value being way over book value..even in the midst of $3.00 gas prices. Some Hyundai detractors on this and the Tucson site LOVE to point out that Hyundai has no resale value as compared to others especially Honda-Toyota. OK you asked about problems. The 2001's, since they were the first models of the Santa Fe sold in the U.S. had a certain amount of problems that involved the crankshaft-position sensor (I believe) and the faulty part was replaced under warranty. There were some other engine related faults( some early block castings for the 2.7 V-6 were too thin at the cylinder water jackets) that were quickly taken care of under warranty too, they replaced these faulty engines and none of those faulty engines are still on the road. I would try to steer clear of 2001's not because of any reliability problems but because Hyundai continually upgraded the cars from year to year adding improvements and generally refining the thing. If I had to pick a year that reflected many of the changes but still is old enough to buy reasonably I would choose 2003. I know you will hear horror stories about these if you check some previous posts but I wouldn't be too quick to believe all you read here. From what I can determine there are no real problems but of course anything can have an isolated failure and I have heard of a sprinkling of the usual automobile failures...things that can happen to anything occasionally. Consumer Reports generally rates them pretty well. Fuel economy is a hot button issue here also, personal experience says a 2.7 V-6 AWD gets about 20-21 MPG highway driven at about 70-72 MPH... same car gets about 16-17 city driving in our smallish city with no real gridlock. The 3.5 liter AWD got about the same or a MPG or two better (21-22) on the highway but about 15-16 city. I believe this was due to having a 5 speed automatic verses a 4 speed on the 2.7 liter. The engine RPM at any given highway speed was much lower with the 5 speed and additionally the greater torque of the 3.5 liter allowed the car to stay in 5th gear more on Pa.'s hills and mountains where the 4 speed car used to downshift to 3rd gear. I believe these are generally reliable and if you have a potential choice evaluated by a mechanic for problems you should do OK. You state that "breakdowns are not acceptable" and while I appreciate your circumstances and I do not state that nothing will ever break on a Santa Fe but it should be no worse than any of the others even the icons of the automotive world...Toyota and Honda.
  • rick42rick42 Member Posts: 9
    Have a new 2006 Santa Fe (Love it!) and am trying to decide if we should buy an extended service contract before 12,000 miles. Dealer (Jeff Wyler) sells CostGuard Wrap contract. The booklet covers everything, and I do mean everything, but I know how you can get burned on service contracts. Does anyone know anything about CostGuard?

    Thanks
  • shivelytshivelyt Member Posts: 46
    I have an 01 Santa Fe now coming up to the 60,000 mile mark. The car has the 6year/72,000 mile full warranty, so I intend to keep it as long as possible. Question is what I really need to do at 60K to maintain the warranty and what it should cost. Dealer prescribes a new drive belt at about $135 and a timing belt and water pump at about $600. Why replace a water pump that isn't leaking? He says because the part is low cost but labor later on is expensive. What should I realistically expect to pay for the timing belt? Also, the manual says replace the fuel filter at 60K. What should this cost? Any good advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    The reason for the water pump change, even if it isn't leaking, at the 60K mile service is simply because when doing the timing belt change it becomes easily accessible. In other words, if the labor to change just the belt is say $100 (just a random figure for comparison) but the water pump is exposed while removing various components and you don't change it at that time and a week down the road the pump leaks, guess what?!, another $100 labor fee. So, in this the dealer is correct. Additionally, at 60K miles the water pump is within the mileage/time frame where leaking could start. A little story about the timing belt, our 2000 Elantra also requires a timing belt @ 60K but it was around 90K miles before we finally got it changed. I asked to see the old belt when it was removed and when shown it looked absolutely NEW. I even asked if this was the old or new one. I believe the 60K mile change is conservative but unless you are a betting man/woman ( and I would bet it would be OK at even over 100K miles) I would change it at around that time frame just to continue the warranty. If I remember the belt and water pump was around $400 for the Elantra but labor rates are wildly variable. The belt itself was cheap..maybe $40? Fuel filter should be changed at 60K or even before that. I can't recall how much they are but I'd guess around $25 for the part..
  • santaf3santaf3 Member Posts: 2
    What did you find out about this problem with your Sante Fe? I just took mine in to the shop last night with the exact same behaviors.

    Thanks.
  • axis_rollaxis_roll Member Posts: 11
    The reason you should have the belt changed @60K is because the engine is an "interference" engine. This means that the valves open far enough to hit a piston if the valve timing were to be out of synch. This could happen if the timing belt broke. This could lead to piston/valve damage that could total in the thousands....

    It's just not worth the gamble, IMHO.

    I know because I have a 2005 2.7 V-6 Sante Fe and asked the Head mechanic at my dealer.

    If the engine was non-interference, by not changing the belt on schedule, all you are risking is being stuck when the belt breaks.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    Oh sure, I know about interference and non-interference engines and the damage incurred if an interference engine belt breaks (bent valves, damaged piston tops, cylinder bore scarring etc.). I was simply pointing out that, at least in our case, the belt looked great at even 90K miles....I do recommend timing belt changes at the recommended 60K but you MAY be safe stretching that a few thousand miles hence the "betting man/woman" comment. By the way all Hyundai engines with rubber timing belts are "interference" type engines....2.0 liter 4 cylinder...2.7 liter V-6....3.5 liter V-6....plus the smaller 1.6 liter 4 used on the Accent. The new generation engines used in the Sonata both the 2.4 liter 4 and 3.3 liter V-6,Azera 3.8 liter V-6, and 2007 Santa Fe, 3.3 liter V-6 all have a timing chain.
  • kayrkayr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Santa Fe, bought new. At 2 years old it started to race when backing out of the garage. Then one day at a red light the accelerator started to race and even with my foot on the brake the car was moving forward. I almost hit the car in front of me before it just stopped. The dealer told me that I had my foot on the accelerator and that is why it happened. I know I did not as all of the pressure I could was on the brake.
    Now I am having a problem with the car lurching and dropping gears. If I go under 15 mph the car with drop a gear, lurch forward, and then pop back in. The other day I was in traffic doing 15 mph and the car jolted so hard it felt like I had hit a wall. The car then went back into regular gear for about 5 seconds and jolted again. My neck is still killing me today from the whiplash. This is the 10th time this has happened and it getting progressively worse. I have taken the car back 3 times so far. They keep telling me that it is the educated accelerator learning the pressure of my foot. This is not true since the car has 17,0000 mile and I am the only one driving it. I have started to keep a log and am going back to the dealership and leaving the car. At this point it is unsafe to drive. I am afraid to make turns for fear this will happen while crossing a lane of traffic and I will be broad sided by the on coming cars. Oh, and they told me that no one else has reported this happening in their cars. Gee I guess it must be me?
  • santaf3santaf3 Member Posts: 2
    I had a similar problem a couple of weeks ago. It was diagnosed and it seems to be fixed. The dealership said that when the timing belt was changed (nearly 6 months ago) the cruise control cable was mis-positioned and there was tension on it. This made the car think it was in cruise when it wasn't. It raced when in park and neutral and it was difficult to stop while in drive.

    They fixed the cable and then they also had to "re-program" the computer because it had been driven at the high RMPs for a period of time (about 30 miles) and the computer learned that to operated at high RPMs. After the cable was fixed, it was very rough to drive and it seemed to jerk all over the place trying to figure out what gear to be in. The "re-programming" seemed to fix this sub-sequent issue.

    The total cost was about $120 to fix the cable and there was no charge for the "re-programming". The only issue I have is that it was an accute onset of the racing and it didn't coinside with what they said was the source (timing belt change). It is fixed now so I will just see if any other issues recur. Hope this helps. My car is was just over 100K miles, 2001 Sante Fe XL.
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