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Comments
1) you bought something that, as you have found, is basically worthless and that "something" is most extended warranties. Admittedly, through your own ignorance about such things. This warranty is not connected to Hyundai even though you may have purchased it through your selling dealer. There are companies whose business is marketing and selling these to people like you. They may be reasonably good if you need them, they may duplicate services during the time frame the actual Hyundai warranty is in effect, the company may fold and disappear leaving you with nothing, or they may cover things that may never need service and ignore common repair items....It has been determined that you should not buy these extended warranties, generally they don't give you any extra protection as you have found.
2) Since your car is older than 5 years and has more than 50K miles it is no longer covered by the original Hyundai 50K/5year bumper to bumper warranty.
3) The parts you have been repairing and replacing are not uncommon or unusual to possibly need replaced in ANY 5 year old car. The window problem is somewhat unusual but not unheard of...power steering hoses are under high pressure at all times so a leak there is expected sooner or later and 5 years isn't unusual...the rubber stabilizer bushings are exposed to all road hazards, rain, salt, snow, gravel,basically everything you drive through or over so for the rubber to harden and deteriorate, again isn't unusual.
4) labor costs almost always exceed the cost of the part..again this applies to any manufacturer or brand.
5) "do you see a problem?" Yes, I sure do...the problem is you purchased something about which you had no knowledge and when it didn't perform as you had been expecting put the blame on Hyundai who had nothing to do with the product you purchased and when they didn't respond (rightly so) you have condemned Hyundai. You are also experiencing normal "older car" problems and find you need to pay for repairs..what a surprise!!! You are out of the 50K/5year Hyundai warranty period which is clearly stated on every piece of Hyundai literature.
I like Hyundai products and since they already provide the most comprehensive warranty in the auto industry I am amused when persons such as yourself loudly proclaim you will never buy another when in fact nothing unusual has occurred...except you got suckered into buying a mostly worthless extended warranty, nevermind that Hyundai didn't sponsor it. Good luck on your new whatever.
Thanks
1)Description:
The calendar on the overhead console must be set to the correct time to ensure the date will change at midnight. If the internal clock is not properly set the date may change at an incorrect time each day.
2.)Procedure:
A)First, set the internal clock of the digital calendar.
a)Press and hold the "M" button for at least 3 seconds until the digits for the HOUR blink.
b.)Use the UP or DOWN button to adjust the hour accordingly to military time (example 3=3AM, 15=3PM)
c.)Press the "M" button to set the MINUTES and the press the UP or DOWN button to adjust the minutes.
d.)Press the "M" button when finished.
3.)Next, set the date of the digital calendar.
a.)Press the "M" button to display a blinking YEAR, use the UP or DOWN button to adjust the year.
b.)Press the "M" button again to display a blinking MONTH, use the UP or DOWN button to adjust the MONTH
c.)Press the "M" button again to display a blinking DAY, use the UP or DOWN button to adjust the DAY.
d.) Press the "M" button once again when finished.
For your information military time is based on a 24 hour format where midnight is 00...1 AM is 0100...2 AM is 0200 etc. and noon is 1200hrs and 1PM is 1300 hrs and 2PM is 1400 hrs etc.
Basically the overhead calendar has its own internal clock that needs to be set along with the current date (month..day...year). Hope this info helps all who have wondered how to do this.
And also, are most of you happy with the Santa Fe? We were thinking of the Tucson, but she hates not having a power seat.
beverly, "Hyundai Santa Fe: Problems & Solutions" #733, 16 Jun 2004 9:48 am
May just need to replace it.
Steve, Host
I read about them in the owners manual and they represent Anti-lock braking system and Traction Control system... Of course, it really only reads to get service, but what's that really mean? Can anyone elaborate on what the issue is, warranty coverage if there's a broblem?
Also, are struts covered in the 60K 5yr bump-to-bump warranty? These things died I think after about 6 months and have since sounded like I have a bowling ball in the trunk while hitting bumps.
I'm also a victem of squeeky brakes since day one, had the brakes serviced many times and an entire break job $700... still get the squeekies.. only goes away when I exceed 25 MPH.
Thanks!
Dan
With regard to the struts..you do not say how many miles on the car but struts in any car have a finite life meaning that they will need to be replaced. They should have lasted beyond 6 months however. Check for oil leaks around each strut because they are oil filled. Since they are what is considered a "normal wear item" I do not know if they are covered by warranty...they may be but do not be surprised if they are not.
On the squeeky brakes, it is NOT abnormal for modern brakes to make noise mostly due to the fact that asbestos has been removed from brake materials and the substitute is metallic powdered material. So, unless this is a major issue for you and you do say it subsides after 25 MPH you may have to live with it, unless you are willing to change the pads one more time using a ceramic material. Hope this sheds some light on your concerns..
Also, I have had the same calendar problems almost since I got it. I know it is under warranty. I just haven't taken it in yet.
Anyone else with windshield problems?
I have not heard about a widespread problem with windshield cracks but if you are sure nothing has recently hit it then it could be a stress derived crack where flex may start a crack in a curved section of the glass. As I previously stated glass breakage isn't warranted beyond (I'm guessing on this) the basic 12 month/12,000 mile period. You need to call the dealer for the facts on this but don't be disappointed it it is no longer covered.
did you ever find out what caused the hard starting on the sante fe?
Last week our Santa Fe (22,400 miles) would not start.
It turned over, but wouldn't "fire".
Called the dealer, then roadside.
Vehicle was then taken to the dealer via rollback.
I was then told that the car was "flooded, possibly due to the change of weather temp." Yeah, okay...
So, fast forward this week, and we're going down the road, and the car started to lose and gain power. Then I noticed it knocking - Loudly.
I took the car directly to the dealer, and am now told that it's bad and might need a new engine.
Hyundai might want to find what failed and fix it. The dealer is pushing for a new engine.
So, we'll see...
As far as maintenance goes, I've taken it to the dealer every 3,000 miles religiously for oil and misc. check ups, so that's not an issue, thankfully.
I'm not sure what the correlation is between the car not starting last week, and it "blowing up" this week.
I have to say so far the dealer has been good with this. We've got a decent loaner, and are assured the car will be good as new when it's done.
For some reason, I feel like the hammer's going to fall, and we'll be entering major dilema.
Any feedback on what could be the problem with the engine, and if Hyundai will honor "America's Best Warranty" on something so serious?
Thanks...
1.) modern engines do not "flood" easily and certainly not due to changing weather conditions or ambient temperatures. You state you have 22.5 K miles on the car and presumably you know how the car works after this time so any significant change in operation isn't due to a lack of knowledge on your part.
2.) You have done all the recommended maintainance... at the dealer no less, very good for you!! That should make this ordeal as painless as possible.
3.) Obviously a serious internal problem that sounds like a lack of oil pressure caused terminal engine failure. Did the low oil pressure warning lamp on the dash illuminate prior to the onset of knock? Did ANY warning lamp illuminate as this was going on? Did it overheat badly? actually VERY badly.
4.) The dealer may be instructed to disassemble the engine to see what happened, how badly damaged it is, if it is possible to economically repair it. Engines can be, and are rebuilt every day. That said, I would want a new short,or long block or even a new crate engine myself. It may be more cost effective to just replace the thing. If it is any consolation I have not heard of any wholesale 3.5 liter engine failures although like any mechanical thing it can..and apparently has to you. I would closely follow the progress and if a cause is established I would want to know exactly why the engine failed. That's just me however as I am intensely curious about my car and want to know all the what's and why's.
5.) I do believe Hyundai will fix the car "as good as new" under warranty and I don't think there will be any hassles.
please let me know what transpires and what has been found as to a cause...as I say I am intensely curious.
After the "flooding" incident, my wife and I switched cars, and I drove the Santa Fe to work, etc., up until it went all together.
I'm one that takes notice of anything that doesn't look or sound normal, so when it acted up (hesitating, then the knocking), I was at the dealer in a matter of minutes.
There were no warning lights or overheating of any kind, as I made sure to notice. This was the case for the week that I solely drove the car, and on the way to the dealer.
As I said in my initial post, the dealer told me they're "pushing for a new engine". Certainly, that would suit me, but admittedly, I too am curious as to what failed. (The old motorhead in me still lives,lol)
I'll call the dealer on Friday, which will be two days since our last conversation.
Hopefully they'll have an answer as to how they're going to handle things.
I'll keep you posted, and thanks for the support.
When I turned my heater on, it stayed on regardless of what buttons I pressed. I could adjust it to AC/defrost, the location of where the air comes out, etc. But the airflow was at full blast and would not shut off!! Anyone know what could be causing this? I have checked the fuses and replaced a few, to no avail.
I spoke with my Hyundai dealer and they seem to think it could be a relay? I don't have a whole lot of time to get to a dealer, so if this is something I can do, I'd rather do it. Help!!
Thanks in advance.
While modern car do not have a "choke", the injection system enrich the mixture for cold weather start. If somehow a sensor controlling this system failed, it may (and I emphasize may...) have caused the flooding and subsequently the terminal failure of the engine. But in that case, you should have got a low oil pressure warning light....
Just speculations.... :confuse:
Funny, I just got home from work and was going to post the exact same possible cause that a co-worker mentioned to me.
Perhaps a sensor went haywire, sending way too much fuel, and some wound up mixing with the oil??
A rare occurance, but possibly the root cause nonetheless, as it was most definitely flooded last week. (But certainly not due to a change in weather temp.!)
I'm sure the last thing the dealer wants to hear is a car owner that "knows it all", but I'm thinking of calling tomorrow, and add that theory to the mix.
Even if they put a new engine in, they better make darn sure every sensor that has to do with sending and mixing fuel is replaced.
Maybe that should have been done when it intially flooded last week...
Thanks again.
Make sure not to get caught between the 2....
Be careful and good luck
I did call the dealer today, and was told that they're waiting for a visit from an adjustor, which is leaving me a bit suspicious or dare I say, nervous.
It sounds like some finger pointing is going on between Hyundai higher-ups and the dealer.
I'm assured that because of the "impeccable" maintenance schedule I kept will keep me out of all that (we shall see).
The car's never missed an oil change.
Every 3,000 miles, at the same dealership, and I've got every receipt - Thankfully!
Before I picked up the car from the initial flooding, I did have them change the oil, as it was at the 3,000 mile mark.
But...
Once the car arrived (via rollback), the service advisor "cranked the heck out of it" unitl it started, then he drove it around town for a while.
When I picked up the car the next day is when the oil was changed.
Not by their recommendation, but mine. (and my dime, too)
Assuming the gas mixed with the oil, could that drive around town (by the dealer), prior to the oil change cause irreparable damage?
It ran fine for the week after until it went all together, but perhaps the damage had already been done...
I'm anticipating on learning more next week, and I'll post when I do.
Besides, as you drive, the fuel in the oil evaporates, providing it is not an excessive amount.
But yes, large amounts of fuel in the oil could destroy an engine because it washes the cylinders clean, hence no oil protection. But you'd have a huge drop in oil pressure and lots of noise prior to that.
Looking for a gently used car and ran across some 01 Santa Fe's and went to check reliabilty ratings. JD powers shows that 4-5 year mechanical dependability is 2/5. MSN Autos shows them as 5/5 with no major issues. Now i'm even MORE confused than I was before.
Also, ever dealer I have gone to wants WAY over what Edmunds and Kelley are saying the car is worth in excellent (and none so far are what I would consider excellent, but rather clean cars). The only one I have seen within the price ranges of both Kelley and Edmunds has frame damage to it. Why are these things so expensive on lots???
Can anyone tell me what major problems to expect with these and which reliability rating is more accurate (I haven't even gone to consumer reports yet). I have read reviews out my ying yang and still can't get a good feel for this cars reliability.
I MUST have a car that is reliable and requires few worries as I am a single parent who has to transport two kids, one who has a developmental disablity. Break downs are not acceptable
Reliability ratings depend on the size of the test sample and what components they are rating, and how far BACK they are sampling.
I'd go with Consumer Reports myself. JD Powers are not car people, they are just statisticians. At least Consumer Reports DRIVES the cars.
Thanks
Thanks.
It's just not worth the gamble, IMHO.
I know because I have a 2005 2.7 V-6 Sante Fe and asked the Head mechanic at my dealer.
If the engine was non-interference, by not changing the belt on schedule, all you are risking is being stuck when the belt breaks.
Now I am having a problem with the car lurching and dropping gears. If I go under 15 mph the car with drop a gear, lurch forward, and then pop back in. The other day I was in traffic doing 15 mph and the car jolted so hard it felt like I had hit a wall. The car then went back into regular gear for about 5 seconds and jolted again. My neck is still killing me today from the whiplash. This is the 10th time this has happened and it getting progressively worse. I have taken the car back 3 times so far. They keep telling me that it is the educated accelerator learning the pressure of my foot. This is not true since the car has 17,0000 mile and I am the only one driving it. I have started to keep a log and am going back to the dealership and leaving the car. At this point it is unsafe to drive. I am afraid to make turns for fear this will happen while crossing a lane of traffic and I will be broad sided by the on coming cars. Oh, and they told me that no one else has reported this happening in their cars. Gee I guess it must be me?
They fixed the cable and then they also had to "re-program" the computer because it had been driven at the high RMPs for a period of time (about 30 miles) and the computer learned that to operated at high RPMs. After the cable was fixed, it was very rough to drive and it seemed to jerk all over the place trying to figure out what gear to be in. The "re-programming" seemed to fix this sub-sequent issue.
The total cost was about $120 to fix the cable and there was no charge for the "re-programming". The only issue I have is that it was an accute onset of the racing and it didn't coinside with what they said was the source (timing belt change). It is fixed now so I will just see if any other issues recur. Hope this helps. My car is was just over 100K miles, 2001 Sante Fe XL.