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Hyundai Santa Fe Maintenance and Repair (2006 and earlier)

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Comments

  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    There was, in the USA anyhow, a TSB issued that addressed premature clutch wear and if I remember correctly had a bunch of parts that were redesigned incl. clutch disc, pressure plate, and the throwout bearing all to be replaced per this TSB. Few owners here (USA) have manual transmissions though. The Hyundai USA website has a technical section that lists all past and current TSB's so if you can acess that you may be able to find it and find out if it is applicable in the U.K. if that is where you are.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    It might be easier to trade the 2.7 than try to change engines because not only is the engine different but transmission is a 5 speed auto. verses 4 speed and at least on older SF's the type of 4 WD systems were different between the two plus all the other stuff i.e. exhaust was larger... various electronc sensors different e.t.c.
  • eucalypteucalypt Member Posts: 1
    I have also had similar problems. I bought my car in 2001 in Australia and had problems with the clutch in 2004. The dealer said that it was a recall problem and it was supposedly fixed. I had the car in for repair last week for grating noises when put into 3rd gear. This was covered by the warranty - but guess what? I was told that the clutch needed replacing and it was 'wear and tear' so not covered by warranty. I was told that the recall problem back in 2004 had been corrected. I also have never damaged a clutch with previous cars, having driven 1 car for 20 years. The fellow in the service centre was cheeky enough to question my driving which I found very offensive (I'm female).
    I have only done 50,000 km and this has included a lot of long distance driving. I have paid for the repair but intend to take it up with Hyundai until I get a refund.
    Will keep you posted
  • orlmailmanorlmailman Member Posts: 1
    There is a tsb on the thermistor on the evaporator being located in the wrong place and causes the evaporator to freeze up which causes the air to warm up. It also restricts airflow out of the vents. I just went through this with the dealer fortunatly our car was still under the 60000 mile threshhold and they fixed it. But I had to actually print out tsb and show it to service writer they did not believe me when I said there was a bulliten on it. You can get all the tsb info on hyundais website
  • seasmoke14seasmoke14 Member Posts: 5
    I own a 2002 Santa Fe GLS 4WD, mileage 10,685 (NOT a typo!). 95% of my driving is considered highway (14 miles from town on a 2-lane road, no stoplights). Almost NO stop-and-start driving.

    I had to have the serpentine belt replaced at 8,100 miles (July 2004); it was 'jingling'. The jingling noise was present when I bought the car new from a Hyundai dealer. Dealer said, "Oh, that's just a noise the Hyundais make, no need for concern." (Right!) Now just over 2,500 miles after replacing the belt, I need to replace it again. This time the minor jingling sound went to full screech the last time I drove the car.

    I'm going to have to have it towed; I'm afraid to drive it. The nearest dealer is 40+ miles away; I live in the boondocks. I would rather not attempt to get it to a dealer, as I would have difficulty getting home again and returning to pick up the car (unless they will give me a loaner), since I assume the dealer won't do a "quick change" while I wait. So I'll bite the bullet and pay to have it towed somewhere relatively local (15-20 miles instead of 40).

    The car is still under warranty and the Hyundai Roadside Assistance program would cover towing to a dealer. In the end, I'd spend as much because of other issues (like having to rent a car).

    It's pretty much a given that the mechanic who changes the belt will not have much familiarity with Hyundais. Is there something I should have the mechanic look for that might be causing this problem? A serpentine belt should have a longer life-expectancy. Is it possible I am doing something to cause the problem (or not doing something I should be doing)? Aside from this annoying problem, I LOVE the car. One obvious mistake I made, but would probably do it again... I purchased the car in Virginia two weeks before moving to Maine. Was unaware that there are few Hyundai dealerships in Maine, all distant from my home.

    Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Linda
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    Linda, there is an idler pulley that the belt rides on. It simply is a guide for the belt as it drives accessories such as power steering pump, alternator, AC compressor. The belt DOES ride on this pulley and it does have bearings although it drives nothing but simply provides a guide or path for the belt as it twists between other driven items. If the bearings start to fail within this idler it will 1.) drag and prematurely damage the serpentine belt causing the need for it to be replaced before its time and 2.)if the bearings completely fail it will squeal and it will not freely spin causing the belt to drag over it so maybe the belt will start to smoke slightly from friction. Either way this could be the cause OR a driven accessory could be in the process of failing and since all of those also have bearings that could be the cause of the noise. But, I have heard of the idler pulley failing before so that would be my first choise.
  • seasmoke14seasmoke14 Member Posts: 5
    targettuning, thank you soooo much! I will make a note of the information you provided and make sure the idler pulley and other possibilities are checked. I may just go ahead and let the dealer do this, even if it costs me $$$. I assume their service techs are trained in Hyundai repair, which I know will not be the case if I take it to someone closer to me.

    I didn't see any smoking, but I was freaking out a bit over the squeal. So a minimal amount of smoke might have escaped my notice. I was pretty close to home when the squeal started, maybe 1/4 mile or less. Linda
  • jpanozzo1jpanozzo1 Member Posts: 50
    Linda..if you had the first belt replaced at the dealer you should argue they didn't do a thorough analysis of why the belt failed so soon. It also appears you are still within the 5 year warranty. If they give you a hard time tell them you will contact Hyundai and your local Better Business Bureau. Don't argue but don't back down... just state what you will do if they don't fix a problem THEY caused.

    In the future, when a dealer tells you ALL vehicles have some problem, get it in writing signed by the service manager... even if you have to prepare the letter. Usually, you will be surprised how quick they will address your problem rather than sign a letter. If they don't sign, send the letter with another letter to Hyundai and the BBB with your attempts to get the problem fixed.

    Hate to say it but this is a sexist issue. Dealers know women are usually not mechanics and they blow you off with phony excuses.

    Joe in Texarkana
  • seasmoke14seasmoke14 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks, Joe!
    My car is now at the dealer's; I had it towed 7/19, HRA. Very nice service advisor. (I realize nice doesn’t = thorough or knowledgeable.) SA seems to genuinely want to correct the problem.

    Service tech has inspected serpentine belt, idler pulley, components driven by pulley, bearings for all related parts. No problem found. No noise detected. The high-pitched screech I experienced hasn’t been replicated, nor does anyone hear the 'jingling' noise.

    The jingling I hear sounds rather like the sound made by a tambourine when shaken. It's definitely audible, but not a harsh or loud sound. The screech occurred following a drive of about 35 miles, a half-hour rest with the engine off, and another 35 mile drive. The screech was a one-time occurrence, after which I did not drive the car. So I'm thinking maybe the screech only occurs when the engine or something else is well heated after a somewhat lengthy drive time. The screech and jingling are not velocity related (i.e., doesn't occur at a particular speed). The jingling is audible to me as long is the engine is running, even after just starting the car with the engine cold.

    The dealer (service advisor) is sending someone (service manager) on a lengthier drive this morning. I told them to ensure radio turned off and all 4 windows open 2 or 3 inches. I can hear the 'jingle' if the engine is running and I am outside the car; I can also hear it when I am driving the car (with or without the radio on; more audible with passenger-side windows open a bit). It is definitely not as obvious if other sounds interfere. I can't tell for certain whether the noise is coming from under the hood or beneath the car. When driving past solid objects (curbs, building walls, etc.) the noise ricochets back and is much more audible than if it doesn’t have the opportunity to bounce off something.

    I know all about sexist issues where women and cars are concerned. I do not blow off easily. I did tell the service advisor I was returning to this forum to see if anyone had suggestions. He was pleased. Happy to have assistance.

    If all else fails, I am going to return to the dealer and take a ride with one of their mechanics (or service manager). I would prefer not to go that route, as I am 45 miles from the dealer. :(

    If anyone has suggestions as to another likely source of the noise, or if you think there might be a drive component that has been overlooked, please. . . HELP!

    Thanks! Linda
  • jpanozzo1jpanozzo1 Member Posts: 50
    Linda
    If you can hear the jingling noise even at idle, others should hear the same sound, especially if standing outside the vehicle. Although it may be a pain, arrange to get to the dealer first thing in the morning before other customers. Sometimes other sounds, such as engines running or others talking in the garage, can disrupt hearing minor sounds.

    You indicated the sound has existed since the vehicle was new, so I would take some significant steps in the short run to get the problem out of my life because it will continue to aggravate the hell out of you.

    Does anybody else, including non-mechanic friends, hear the sound? Having others substantiate your experience helps to bolster your mental attitude, in other words you ain't just some crazy person with strange hearing.

    The only sound I have heard that is somewhat similiar is when combustion is not correct, but that is more like loose marbles in a tin can.

    Best of luck... :confuse: :confuse:

    Joe in Texarkana
  • astone11astone11 Member Posts: 2
    I am having the EXACT same problem!! So I took it to the hyundai dealership on Wednesday and what did they say?? "after conducting all of our tests we couldn't find anything wrong. What you do need though is a transmission flush...that should clear everything up." So I spent the money on the flush, which I knew I needed anyway even though the dealership charged me twice as much as places like Jiffy Lube because they have "specific fluids for the hyundai" and guess what...I still have the problem! I haven't called them back yet because I'm so annoyed. I guess I will tomorrow with a print out of this website. :mad:
  • jpanozzo1jpanozzo1 Member Posts: 50
    They do have a specific fluid to assure your money flows from your wallet to their cashier...a slippery substance called BS. Ask the service manager how a flush would fix a rattling sound and document his answer. Write it down as he talks because you want to make sure in your letter to Hyundai that you are quoting him.

    Also, point out that they assured you the flush "would clear everything up" and it HAS NOT. That statement is ludicrous. Flushes can replaced worn out fluids and are good preventative maintenance to avoid future problems, but they usually cannot cure an existing ill, especially odd noises. A tranny flush is no different than changing the oil in your car; it prevents problems but won't fix a worn part.

    The sound that I am referring to may be a problem with an oxygen sensor...anybody at this forum please correct me if I am wrong. However, that should have been easily caught with the diagnostics they performed.

    If the vehicle was making the same sound when you picked it up, you should have dragged the service manager to the vehicle at that point. Can ANYBODY else hear the sound you are referring to?

    Joe in Texarkana
  • astone11astone11 Member Posts: 2
    My problem isn't a noise...my problem is that my transmission is slipping and when it shifts it jerks forward. I have 87,000 miles on my 03 santa fe and this started about a month ago. Luckily it is still under warranty so we'll see what they say when I go back. But I'm starting to learn some good lessons when taking my car to the dealership!!! Thanks for your help!! :)
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    OK a jingling noise at idle and also while driven. I think Joe suggested an oxygen sensor but I think not. More likely a heat shield somewhere around the exhaust/cat. converter. A faulty oxygen sensor will trigger a fault code...turn on the "check engine lamp" and you will probably know if and when it happens by these symptoms. If heard at idle does the frequency or amplitude (loudness) of this noise change if the engine is revved somewhat in park? Is it a constant regardless of engine and vehicle speed? You realize, of course, long distance diagnostics is an "iffy" thing and there are plenty of nooks and crannys in a complex vehicle where thing that "jingle" can lurk? Regardless if it obvious to you the tech. needs to "isolate" that particular noise while riding along with you. If it is more obvious with the passenger window open while driving past noise reflectors such as buildings do that and take as long as needed until he/she at least acknowledges they hear it.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    Actually although a transmission flush cannot repair worn or faulty parts it sometimes can "cure" some symptoms caused by dirty...low...or fluid long past the need for change. Dirty, low fluid or a clogged filter can make the transmission do funny things without being actually bad. At nearly 90K miles the transmission was due for a flush anyhow.
  • seasmoke14seasmoke14 Member Posts: 5
    Update...
    The car refused to make any peculiar noises for the dealer's service manager. I went to the dealership. I took the car for a drive myself. I drove it about 20 miles. No jingling! It's not making the noise at the moment. I drove the car home (just under 45 miles). No problems, although I did think once or twice I heard the jingling quite faintly. When I arrived home, I left the engine running while I walked around the car. Didn't hear anything unusual.

    While the dealer had the car, I had a bunch of routine maintenance services performed, due but not overdue: oil & filter change; air filter change; lube; wheels rotated, aligned, and balanced, annual inspection; Hyundai's 24-point check; wiper blades; radiator flushed and refilled + anti-freeze... all the 'usual stuff.' They also reprogrammed the oxygen sensor (recall issue).

    They did not replace the serpentine belt or any idler pulley bearings. The belt still looks brand new, as it probably should after only 2,500 miles.

    I can't fault the dealership for not finding the problem I have experienced. I honestly believe they tried their best. If the noise wasn't present for them, I understand they couldn't possibly diagnose the cause. They know I'll bring the car back in a heartbeat if the noise recurs... and we both expect it will. Since the car has such low mileage and only 10 months of the 60-month warranty remains, I'm going to request a warranty extension for this specific issue.

    Although this problem is on-going and annoying, I am delighted with my Santa Fe and with my dealings with Rowe Hyundai in Auburn, Maine. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another Hyundai in the future.

    Many thanks to all who provided input on this issue for me... especially you, targettunning.

    Linda :)
  • seasmoke14seasmoke14 Member Posts: 5
    Yes, Joe... others have heard the noise in the past. I admit to being crazy... but not stupid. My mental attitude is intact and doesn't need validation. Your post gave me a chuckle. ;)

    The 'voices' aren't telling me there's a problem with my car.

    The sound is definitely not like loose marbles in a tin can.

    At the first recurrence, the car will be back at the dealer's. I will leave the car running while I go to the service desk, take the service advisor by the hand, and bring him to the car.

    Thanks for your input and have a fun weekend! :D

    Linda in foggy, but cool Maine
  • jpanozzo1jpanozzo1 Member Posts: 50
    I am not sure how Hyundai handles extensions, but they do have a program for extending the 5 yr bumper to bumper to 10 years when the vehicle is new. You might still be able to avail yourself of that insurance. If available, assure that the policy is through either Hyundai or the most reputable outfit you can find. If you can only get the dealer's insurance, be aware they can go out of business leaving you with a worthless piece of paper.

    Depending on your time frame to keep the vehicle, it can be $ well spent, especially as the vehicle gets older.

    Joe in sunny and hot as hell Texarkana
  • 1234693112346931 Member Posts: 17
    Ihad a similar problem, with my 03 santa fe---15000mles ( I was getting a "jerk" at times, when the vehicle was moveing or standing still. ) see essages 1339 & 1441 in his forum. hope it helps. Rich
  • 1234693112346931 Member Posts: 17
    I have a 03, 2.7, santa fe, with 16000 miles, on it. Is there a recommended MUST time for a transmission fluid & filter change? or a tires alignment-balance? The dealership is hounding me on these items.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out the Edmunds Maintenance Guide for what the manufacturer recommends for your car and how much it should cost for US zip codes.

    Note the fine print there:

    *This Total Estimated Cost includes the preventive maintenance items recommended by Hyundai. The facility that services your vehicle may perform different, greater, or fewer procedures that can affect the cost you incur.

    And check out the Maintenance Tips page at Edmunds as well as the Dealer vs. Manufacturer Maintenance Schedules article.
  • jpanozzo1jpanozzo1 Member Posts: 50
    A fluid change schedule should be in your owners manual. Attention to tires should be more related to rotation every other oil change, which can be done at a less expensive place than the dealer if you so choose. Just keep your receipts.

    Alignnment and balance requirements are more due to the vehicle pulling to one side or the other or abnormal tire wear. Alighnment and balance can be needed more often if you drive rutted roads. On the other hand I drive almost 100% highway or well paved roads and my Camry got over 70K on the first set of tires with NO ALIGNMENTS OR BALANCING, only rotation.

    Steve's tips above are very good; just thought I would throw in my 2c.

    Joe in Texarkana
  • kconfusedkconfused Member Posts: 1
    I purchased 2 remotes, along with the instructions to program the remotes. Unfortunatly when I removed the lower panel on the dash, I couldn't locate the etacs module in order to switch it to set it to program. Please, anybody help me locate the etacs module so I can program my remotes.
  • 1234693112346931 Member Posts: 17
    many thanx joe & steve for your explanations. I purchased the vehicle new & use the owners manual for mantenance, from day one, but as I previously stated, I have been hounded by the service departments, during the last 2 oil changes, to change the tranny fluid & filter. when I ask if something is wrong, they say no, but the service should be done, at the 15000 mile point. My inquiry was due to my wondering, if there was more I should know besides the manual, To furthur help my understanding, the manual says "inspect" (i.e. tranny, etc.) can you enlighten my as to what the manual means by inspect? thanx again for yor help. Rich
  • discipleguydiscipleguy Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 SF2.7V62WD, I just hit 90,000 with no problems. Ironically, 30 miles after the 90,000 mark my check engine light came on (first time ever) and my transmission would not transition correctly. I have noticed that my car has been acting sluggish the last couple of weeks. When I drove it later, the engine light went off and the transmission was engaging normally. I used the shift-tronic also and it was working well. Do you think my transmission is going out? What should I have checked/changed and or serviced? Thanks for your help.
  • smt1smt1 Member Posts: 4
    I own a 2002 4 cylinder Sante Fe. While at a dealership the other day my wife was comlaining to a Service Manager about performance problems and MPG issues she has with the Sante Fe. He told her that the Sante Fe was set up for the Californiatype emission testing. And that there is a way to increase the MPG and the Horsepower of the Sante Fe. Anybody know what he might be talking about? She didn't follow up with asking him how.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    100K miles would be a good time to start thinking about transmission and filter changes. If I am not mistaken 100K is the suggested time in the maint/service interval manual but if I am wrong it still is a good time. Yeah, there are those who say every 25K or 50K and everything in between but 15K is certainly too early unless you have some extraordinary driving circumstances. Although I cannot say exactly what "inspect" means but probably check fluid level..check pan bolts for tightness and check for leaks plus inspect any electrical connectors for complete connection.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    When your check engine light illuminated it most likely logged a fault code in the engine or transmission controller computer. This code can be read by a technition at the dealer via an OBDII code reader and decoded to find exactly what happened. This is a pretty accurate way to find out where failures may have occurred. I do not think your transmission is going out (it may however so don't take my opinion as gospel) however there is clearly something wrong and you should take it in for a diagnostic check.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    Crapola...I think the standards are becoming equally stringent throughout the lower 48 states. At one time California had increased standards and cars destined there had more stringent testing but in recent years cars can be sold throughout the country including California with the same standards. Further, I do not think there is any concrete way to increase performance and fuel economy...I take that back there are several ways:
    1. have the car serviced and properly tuned at specified intervals.
    2. keep the tires properly inflated
    3. take the "junk" out...stuff we haul around in the trunk that adds extra weight.
    4.drive at rational speeds and keep a steady speed.
    All basic stuff but do I think there is a magic fix applied in the bowels of the service department...nope?!
    Finally do not expect super fuel economy with this style vehicle...even the 4 cylinder version...around 24-25 highway according to a co-worker who has a 2001 fwd 4 cyl. auto and makes a 50 mile round trip interstate commute daily.
  • dhkhthdhkhth Member Posts: 3
    Hi there has anyone else had any problems with the rear hatch outside opener getting stuck open? this would be by second time. first time they changed my locking mechanism. they lubed it the first time. I have just brought back again, and they lubed again, and said they would have to replace it. first they would not cover, and said replacing would not be covered under extended warranty. that has changed. if it happens again they will replace and it will be covered under extended warranty. I was just wondering if other santa fe owners had had similar hatch problems. thank you :confuse:
  • reca1reca1 Member Posts: 14
    I just purchased a 2007 Santa Fe Limited. Love the vehicle, but every time I travel over 50 mph, a whistling noise comes from the windshield arae. I've had the vehicle back to the dealer twice & they cheched the seals on the windshield & now they're looking into vents not fitting properly. Has anyone else had this problem? I read a review of the 07 Santa Fe & windshield noise was mentioned in the article.
  • subarufan1subarufan1 Member Posts: 85
    do you think they will be able to fix that problem?? :confuse:
  • terryredterryred Member Posts: 1
    15 MPG does "stink" but did you realize there is a break-in period on the engine. Wish my dealer had told me. I only have 400 miles on mine and now that i am following the break-in procedure outlined in the manual, i got 20 MPG on my last tank of mixed driving.
  • reca1reca1 Member Posts: 14
    The service department at Washington Hyundai said they will call Hyundai and ask for solutions of the windshiel noise. Right now they seem stumped.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    I assume this is the completely redesigned Santa Fe? If so, it is probably too early for a lot of people to start posting about that model. Most on this site have the first generation model. That said however if your noise becomes an issue with all or many it will be talked about eventually.
  • nightflyernightflyer Member Posts: 2
    Firstly I must apologise for not acknowledging your reply to my post earlier. I have been away and it takes a while to catch up. I wrote to Hyundai Motor UK and got a very bland reply repeating the dealers report. I'm not impressed with Customer Services that are just a mouthpiece for the Dealer network. Following your advice I finally traced what I think is the relevant TSB relating to durability of the manual transmission - TSB No 0440013 dated 1 September 2004. I have now quoted this to Hyundai and await a reply. No doubt they will wriggle but I am determined to pick at this scab until it bleeds and I get some result. I must say thanks for your efforts - I have been reading all the latest posts and you obviously spend a lot of time trying to help people with problems - it is much appreciated
  • bouch137bouch137 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had any success in successfully / permanently fixing this type of problem (engine accelerates even when stepping on brake)? I had a similar situation last year (2004 Santa Fe 3.5L), and I was told that Hyundai had several problems of this type with the computer brain - that the brain thinks the gas pedal is still being applied despite no gas and/or brakes applied. They replaced the computer brain, and I assumed it was over. Now, I have had the same problem happen again, even with a new brain (assuming it was really replaced the first time). Luckily no accidents - yet. Is this something that I can expect to be a permanent problem with this car? (Lemon law doesn't apply yet, until they have tried to fix it 3 times, or I am dead, whichever comes first).
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    These types of problems are not...repeat, not, common and usually it is found to be operator error. Meaning that the driver inadvertently steps on both the throttle and brake at the same time. I personally have done this once and believe me I did not know it was my car revving and I actually looked into my rear view mirror to see who was on my tail. I am not saying you do not have a mechanical problem only that in the majority of cases it has been determined that it was a driver error. I can't recall when the the cable free throttle was added to the SF. but this type of throttle control is pretty reliable. If you are quite sure it is mechanical have the dealer service dept review the problem yet again.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    if it were me, i'd try a few simple experiments, maybe 4 or five to see if i could locate and lesson the wind noise.

    first, i would remove the windshield blades or otherwise tape them down to the glass to rule out chatter from air moving under, instead of over the blade assembly.

    second, i'd take some painter's tape (blue) and tape around the rubber stripping on the windshield so the gap between the glass and the rubber is closed off. i suppose black electrical tape would also work - you just want to be able to remove it later without removing rubber or paint or leaving sticky adhesive behind.

    third, i'd try using the same tape on the gap made by the side-view mirror joint (where if the mirrors can rotate inward there is a gap).

    fourth, if i had any roof rack with rails, i'd verify that the thicker forward edge of the roof cross-bars were pointing towards the front of the vehicle. if installed so the thicker part pointing to the back, it will not act properly like an airfoil and will "sing".

    fifth, i would tape the cowl (the black plastic part below the wipers to the glass. if you have a significant space there between plastic and glass, i could see (like blowing air over an open soda bottle) having a sound produced there.

    hope it helps.
  • highlander9highlander9 Member Posts: 4
    Bouch 137 .... You are absolutely right... And the service manager at the dealership confirmed this... He wanted me to take my foot OFF the brake the next time I applied the brake and the engine raced to see if the engine racing went down... When it did, we both knew the problem was with me, the driver... I was hitting the brake pedal, and when it reached the same height as the gas pedal, my foot was also touching the gas pedal... Apparently Hyundai's brake and gas pedal are VERY CLOSE in proximity. Now I make sure my foot is firmly on the brake ONLY. Thanks for your insight..
  • chrisducatichrisducati Member Posts: 394
    This has come up on other Santa Fe forums. If the person is un aware that they have their foot on the gas pedal they think the car is doing the Audi 5000. ;)
  • chrisducatichrisducati Member Posts: 394
    I had my Santa Fe's windshield busted on 21 July. Storm damage. My Insurance company made the arrangements for free replacement. My advice to anyone is to do research on the glass company before you allow them to do the work. My insurance company used a national company. I was contacted the 24th to tell me they would be out the 25th and replace the windshield. Every work day since I have been told "it's on the truck to be put in today" Well yesterday they finally came. Guess what. They have to come back today because the teenager they sent out put it in wrong. The rubber gasket is not on the windshield on the sides and top. He tried to glue the bottom corners to make it look like it was on. :mad: :cry: :sick:

    Lesson learned.
  • eviteevite Member Posts: 2
    To All:

    I have a 2004 Santa Fe 28480 miles on it. It has started 3 months ago to jump (bucks like when on a wild horse) when the brake is applied and the vehicle is completely stopped. It tends to happen after a long drive in stop and go situations. When taken to the dealer they never take it to that sort of environment, hence they can't find the issue or "replicate"the issue.

    Can some one provide an insight on this so I can do the work for the dealer?

    Thanks!!!
  • vegito1971vegito1971 Member Posts: 24
    I had a Ford once that had a similar problem. It turned out to be a defective piston in the automatic transmission. Having your transmission checked and/or serviced might not hurt either. My buddy once had transmission problems from "dirty" transmission fluid. Normally this is a routine 30k mile service anyway. Regardless, this would definitely bear further investigation since this is definitely not "routine". You might also suggest to the dealership to explore the possibility of a faulty torque converter. In the event that you cannot get satisfactory results from your dealership, call Hyundai Customer Care. They tend to drive issues a lot harder and the dealerships don't seem to like it when you get them involved. But they will pursue the problem to resolution. Good luck!
  • eviteevite Member Posts: 2
    :) Thanks a million for the advice. All the dealer tells me is that it ran the computer tests and it does not reflect any issues.
  • niner504niner504 Member Posts: 5
    I bought 6 months ago a 2001 Santa fe and really enjoy the truck. Just recently it started to chug and sputter. I've been reading the forum before I bought and noticed that this is an ongoing problem. Well to save time I went straight to a transmission shop (I've worked on cars before computers) and he found that the modual on the tranny is failing. We are running test to make sure and it will go back into the shop next week to replace. This will apply to the bucking as well. :confuse:
  • reca1reca1 Member Posts: 14
    Windshield noise problem has been solved. It wasn't coming from the windshield. It seems that the black plastic molding around the hood latch was installed backwards with the lip of the moling facing forwards. When speeds exceeded 50 mph, this plastic lip would act like a reed on an instrument and whistle. After the problem was discovered, it took 10 minutes to solve. Thanks to Washington Hyundai.
  • dessiedessie Member Posts: 2
    Hello all,
    I am the new owner of an 02 2 litre petrol engined Santa Fe. I have noticed a sluggish feel to the engine and a noticeable lack of pick up when changing gears. It feels like a spark plug or something is not igniting fast enough. It seems to drive OK when the revs are above 4,000 rpm. i realise it is a heavy jeep but I expected more pick up from a 2 litre petrol engine. It also seems very sluggish through acceleration, like the choke is on. I have also noticed a slight chug when running idle. Only very faint. There also seems to be a highish whine to the engine when revving it.
    I brought it back to the dealer last week and they replaced a fuel filter. It seems to be a little better but the whine is still there and the acceleration is still sluggish.
    Am I over analysing the jeep as I had a Lexus IS200 before but still with a 2 litre engine.
    Can anyone advise?? Thanks
  • niner504niner504 Member Posts: 5
    To all those with sluggish tranny feeling please take it into a tranny shop while it's doing it. My tranny guy and I have it down to the tranny but because I can't get it to act sluggish when I take it in we don't know if it's electrical or hydraulic. This is on the 2001 SF with 170000km on it. Let me know what you all find please and thanks.
  • chrisducatichrisducati Member Posts: 394
    Have they checked the timing of the engine? The sluggish pick up and the poor idle could be from the engine being out of time. That is what happened with mine after the timing belt was replaced. Yours may have jumped time by just one tooth on the belt.
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