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Comments
1st thing I would do is go to Kragen, Autozone etc and have them tell you what the OBDII code that is that causing the service light light to come on is.
Most of these places will pull the code for free...then go back to the DEALER AND SHOW IT TO HIM. Those codes that make the trouble light come on are stored in the OBD II memory! Some wise guy dealers just use the clear code button to make it go away (it will come back)...that is why you should get the code from an outside party if possible...1 plug in harness, a button push, and the code pops up on the reader
Here is a good site to start you off with,
http://www.obd-codes.com/
these show most generic codes...also you can do a google for OBD II codes. if you post the code here, possible someone can tell you what it means as well. Do n ot get nervous if you can't find the defination of the code...it could be specific to Hyundai....usually not though. The OBD port is usually near the steering wheel under the dash. Your manual may show you where as well but the Kragen guys will know.
In fact, here are some Hyundai specific codes...
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/hyundai/
Once you tell them the code (which they should have pulled already) more can be done.
I bought a basic OBD II reader at Harbor fgt tools for about $32...comes in handy, (My old Mini Cooper dealer used to tell me the same can't duplicate problem as well!) especially when a dealer says they can't see anything wrong and the trouble light is on!
NEXT go after the metal on metal sound when turning issue!
when you start the car, i'd never pump the gas pedal. you're probably flooding the thing. try this next time: turn the key part way and let the fuel pump prime the system, then a few seconds later turn it all the way to start.
you should not have to apply the gas to get the vehicle to turn over and start.
you may have had, or have an idle air control valve problem, or you may have a blocked inlet air filter. any hoses off anywhere? is your engine air filter excessively dirty?
as another poster stated (nice moniker), get the codes read at a local autozone or other parts store. buy something from them too! :shades:
I took it into the dealer yesterday and they said it needs a new fuse box. My defective fuse box was causing both problems. They have to order a new one and should have it replaced by Monday or Tuesday. I've had no other problems with this wonderful vehicle other than the well-known outside temperature reading error that was fixed per TSB shortly after I picked up my car. Interestingly enough, that problem also had to do with the fuse box (the TSB repair consisted of jumping two of the connectors). Looks like they are having multiple problems with the fuse box.
Dave
2007 Santa Fe AWD Limited with Premium and Touring packages
11,600 miles; 8/1/06 build date; (10/06 purchase date)
Dave
2007 Santa Fe AWD Limited with Premium and Touring packages
11,600 miles; 8/1/06 build date; (10/06 purchase date)
I own a 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe and recently, I was told that my transfer case needs to be resealed. Would you recommend to take my car to a Hyundai dealership or should I just take it to any shop instead of to a dealership?
Thanks for your input.
You might get replies at Hyundai Santa Fe Forum as well.
Thanks!
The mechanic told me that the problem seems to be the main shaft that transmits the power from the transmission to the transaxle has 'burrs' from improper machining which in time [about 50,000 kms or so] ruin the integrity of the internal seal and
'bingo' the tranny starts to leak. The mechanic also told me that changing the seal is the first thing Hyundai will authorize to 'fix' the problem. If the leak persists [and apparently it will] Hyundai will authorize a change of the entire transmission.
My question to you, "kalaban", is could you tell me why the transmission was replaced "twice after the first month off the lot !!"
Please reply to my email as, if this problem is going to persist, the 'vehicle' is going to be 'replaced' with one that is represented by a much more reliable company.
YES, Hyundai refuses to admit 'they' have a problem.........since I now own the car, they say it's my problem even though there's still 45,000 kms supposedly left on the warranty !!!
Thank you for your most kind assistance in this matter......
rcalver
Most of your answers sound exactly like the Hyundai Service Managers and Hyundai's General Managers who I've spoken to recently.
Also, the best warranty I know of is the one you never have to use..........
Finally, if you think Hyundai Santa Fe's are so wonderful, perhaps you'd like to buy mine. I've been driving Japanese cars since 1978 and have never failed to get at least 350,000 kms on any of them. One most memorable was an 1989 Honda Accord EXi which I sent to a "wrecking yard" at 525,000 kms. Even the A/C was still working......
Have a nice day......
Please let me know what you find out.
rcalver
But, "at no cost" is the kicker. If you had to bring your vehicle in repeatedly because things kept breaking, or if you were inconvenienced often without a loaner, or if you had to take time off work, or missed getting the kids, or they failed to fix a problem and you had to bring it back multiple times to get it right, or you were treated rudely, or ...... insert situation of your choosing,
would that warranty really stand for anything? What would be it's value?
A warranty with seemingly good terms means nothing if the product and/or service fails you.
thanks in advance...
Actually, just a thought, the engine drives the air conditioning compressor by a belt, if the compressor was starting to seize up, this would make the belt very difficult to drive round and could start to slow the engine down (and this in turn would then affect the power steering pump etc) this could be your problem.
true the problem could be a/c compressor going bad - but also check the power steering... how much does the rpm drop with no a/c on and turning the steering wheel?
Thanks for your replies!!!
CORRECTION=Typo error, 800rpm and not 8000rpm (thats too much). I asked my friend mechanic to come to my house this afternoon to check things that you mentioned that affects my no power steering when low rpm.
One more thing I just found out also that even if the AC is OFF, my RPM goes down to 600rpm when normalized.
Nothing but a Junk from day 1...
Timing belts, Brakes,sensors, and the list goes on.....
I am going back to buying Toyota's.......
:sick: :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick:
Just bought a new one, and love it. Put 1000 miles on it in 4 days. Checked gas milage today on back roads at 50-65 MPH. Average of 26 MPG. I have the 2.7 L engine with the 4 speed tranny. Hooked it up to my double ATV trailor to see how it tows. Great!!!! Hardly know the trailor is behind me. Oh it may have to shift up big hills, but it will work just fine. I'll keep everyone posted with updates on how it does in time.
What happened in the meantime? :confuse: I don't doubt you have had problems, but please give us some more info so that others can make better informed decisions.
Two weeks later the blown out guts of the primary cat clog up the new secondary... this time a Non-Hyundai dealership replaces the primary, but not the secondary, a muffler shop does the honors.
Three months down the road and the primary goes out again...
She goes back to the Hyundai dealership... they replace it...
Again it goes out... it's under warranty... (aftermarket)... it's replaced...
Now... January 2008 and the primary goes out once more.
A local shop replaces it... but can't find a reason as to why it keeps failing.
The car has over 100k on it... at the onset of this problem it had 90k.
Other than this the car runs find... gets better than 20mph.
But at $500 per cat... to replace, we are at the $3k level.
Any ideas?
In laymens terms what is it?
Aslo I was told I should have a de-carb fuel service clean done. I did not do this, should I have?
I will go back to the dealer and get the de-carb.
doohickie, "Hyundai Online Shop Manuals Access" #7, 27 Nov 2006 11:13 am
There's some other links in the Online Repair Manuals guide, but I think most owners are pretty happy with the free offerings straight from Hyundai.
Buzz ~
Prior to my 100 mile warranty full warranty under a lawsuit expired I began feeling problems when at a stop or when driving and accelerating that there was no power, it would lurch or just appear like nothing was happening and then it would lurch forward and gear in. I was told by dealer if i cant replicate the problem and no check engine lights come on there is nothing they can do.
NOW THE STORY BEGINS::
Late March 2007 107K?? miles I am under a 10y/100K & powertrain 12yr/120K mile warranty due to a lawsuit. I brought it in and same problem and it was noticeable and codes went off and they replaced my transmission under warranty. Some errors in installation and missing parts we decided to take to another dealer. they finished the work correctly and it still displayed the same issues. so again in MID June 2007, codes fly and another transmission has installed, but the problems are resolved for a short time and then it begins again except i take it in and i am being told its how i drive.... wrong.... AUgust same thing occurs the next day i got my car back from taking it in time and time again except now im driving and it drives 35 and then shuts down in middle of traffic i was told i should get a new battery ...... i did fast and it ran fine for a few weeks with very little noticable but i couldnt replicate it enough to prove to mechanic at the dealer. finally again dec 2007 they had my car for nearly a month i replaced the following parts that may relate to the concer:
2 crankshaft sensors seal
trans mission service timing belt not sure when but maybe 30K miles before this problem was first taken into the shop in March 2007.
currently in december 2007:
crankshaft sensor again due to seal leak and seal
balance belt
timing belt
o2 sensor
electronic control module (ECM)
catalytic converter
coil and spark plugs
i get car back and bolts loose and I took it back and they fixed bolt but i told them it was shifting funny
for 3 weeks it slowly began to come back again and this time worse then ever...safety issue too
im driving from stop or accelerate or drive to accelerate and it wont shift and it ramps up to 5000 - 6000 RPM so i back off pedal and sometimes it shifts and sometimes it doesnt. feels stuck at 65 and wont shift gears....then goes to 30 shakes and loud ping and rattle noise from the engine or under the front of the car. i cant speed up it shakes and feel wont shift and wants to cut out. I have this same problem and now it is worse then starting in March 2007 when was able to replicate it.
THE SAFETY ISSUE is I was on highway just last saturday and driving 65 with semi behind me and it shuts down to 30 MPH shakes almost stops semi almost ran me over as i try to pull off road.
Finally, the same codes in dec2007 popped up as it does now..... P0320 /P0300
now it is back in shop and their techline suggested a fuel reglator on the gas line. i wait 3 days for a part and today they say it isnt it thats wrong.... now they are saying a crankshaft blade.
PS : mass airflow was checked and no codes are coming up on the transmission. before codes did pop up and now the codes are P0320 & P0300
input and output speed sensors would pull codes.
I AM TRYING TO GET MANY HEADS TOGETHER TO FIGURE OUT THIS PROBLEM OUT CAUSE HYUNDAI CANT FIGURE IT OUT AND THIS CAR IS COMPLETELY UNSAFE TO DRIVE.
PLEASE RESPOND IMMEDIATELY IT IS STILL IN THE SHOP.
Is there a better clutch replacement available in the "after market" than the one that Hyndai will use?
I've read a post from 1/7/08 on car survey.org that stated that the clutch on his 2004 Santa Fe went out at 43,000 and he was given a new clutch by Hyndai, free of charge beacuse the original clutch was defective: is was a "double mass flywheel" which caused overheating and accelerated clutch wear.
Does anyone have any information about this "defect"?
I could not locate the TSB you refer to in your 7/11/06 post. Does anyone have any information about this TSB? Anyone have information about how to get Hyundai to pay for the clutch repair?
If Hyundai won't pay for the clutch repair, is it better to get the repair done at an independent clutch specialty shop than at Hyundai?
03 santa fe clutch tsb
Just because your ECU isn't throwing codes doesn't mean there's nothing wrong with your tranny. All the ECU can report is what the various sensors report. If your ATF is cooked, at improper level, not to spec, dirty, or heavily oxidized, your clutches and brake bands aren't going to work properly -- this kind of failure often causes the kinds of symptoms you're describing. I know because this has happened to me with other vehicles I've owned. Exact same symptoms, too.
If a so-called professional looks at your tranny and says there's nothing wrong with it because it's not throwing codes, I'd find another mechanic; particularly if it's out of warranty and I'm paying the bills. And as much as I hate to remind you, P0300 & P0320 have got zippo to do with a tranny.
I'm looking at the 2002 shop manual, and it sounds to me (from what you describe) that you've got a clutch slipping ... I'd need more information about what "drive to accelerate" means before I'd take a guess at which one.
I'm also guessing that the pinging and shuddering is happening because of an overrev condition. That's to be expected downshifting from 4th at freeway speed. I just wouldn't make that a habit, if you catch my drift (see if you can park your SF for a while).
I think you have a faulty transmission on the inside. It probably needs a rebuild. If you look through the list of transmission-related DTCs, you won't find anything for clutch or brake slippage -- they'll catch certain solenoid & valve failures, but not everything that can possibly go wrong. I'd start with a full line pressure test ... you might get a better clue as to *which* clutch/brake/servo ... but it doesn't really matter. You're headed for a rebuilt transmission if my guesses are all right.
Unfortunately, the only way to actually prove any of this is with a rebuild; but a line pressure test will at least point the way. You're going to have to find a sympathetic transmission specialist to back you up, I'm afraid.
Has the dealership tried swapping out the ECU yet? They might as well. Something doesn't make sense about the codes it is and has been throwing ... tranny slips and the ECU reports cylinder misfires ... yeah, right. Somehow, I think this problem is over their heads.
Best of luck.
--Jim--
Anyone else having this problem?
Thanks in advance.