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Hyundai Santa Fe Maintenance and Repair (2006 and earlier)

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Comments

  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    Assuming you are in the USA:
    1st thing I would do is go to Kragen, Autozone etc and have them tell you what the OBDII code that is that causing the service light light to come on is.

    Most of these places will pull the code for free...then go back to the DEALER AND SHOW IT TO HIM. Those codes that make the trouble light come on are stored in the OBD II memory! Some wise guy dealers just use the clear code button to make it go away (it will come back)...that is why you should get the code from an outside party if possible...1 plug in harness, a button push, and the code pops up on the reader

    Here is a good site to start you off with,

    http://www.obd-codes.com/
    these show most generic codes...also you can do a google for OBD II codes. if you post the code here, possible someone can tell you what it means as well. Do n ot get nervous if you can't find the defination of the code...it could be specific to Hyundai....usually not though. The OBD port is usually near the steering wheel under the dash. Your manual may show you where as well but the Kragen guys will know.

    In fact, here are some Hyundai specific codes...
    http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/hyundai/

    Once you tell them the code (which they should have pulled already) more can be done.

    I bought a basic OBD II reader at Harbor fgt tools for about $32...comes in handy, (My old Mini Cooper dealer used to tell me the same can't duplicate problem as well!) especially when a dealer says they can't see anything wrong and the trouble light is on!

    NEXT go after the metal on metal sound when turning issue!
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    a whine but the motor not turning sounds like a bad starter or a bad battery (battery could be caused by a bad alternator).

    when you start the car, i'd never pump the gas pedal. you're probably flooding the thing. try this next time: turn the key part way and let the fuel pump prime the system, then a few seconds later turn it all the way to start.

    you should not have to apply the gas to get the vehicle to turn over and start.

    you may have had, or have an idle air control valve problem, or you may have a blocked inlet air filter. any hoses off anywhere? is your engine air filter excessively dirty?

    as another poster stated (nice moniker), get the codes read at a local autozone or other parts store. buy something from them too! :shades:
  • deanov6deanov6 Member Posts: 13
    On my 2001 2.7 V6 Santa Fe, if I have the air-con on, when I am in Neutral or Park, the revs sometimes go much higher than usual (say 2000). If I turn off the air-con this will drop back down to around the 1000 mark. However, when at a standstill in Drive, everything seems to be fine. Very strange, anyone have any ideas? :confuse:
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    seems normal - automatic idle air control - you need more engine power to run a/c compressor so an iac or idle air control valve or motor controls the idle speed to make sure your car does'nt shut off when the a/c compressor puts more demand on the engine... so you notice the change in rpms in idle but not so much whilre you are in gear...
  • mtrodesmtrodes Member Posts: 1
    I've had the same problem with the airbag light and the security system not activating and the horn not sounding when the second hit of the keyless entry. I've taken it to the dealer twice to get fixed. The first time, it was working when I got it back, but a week later, both the airbag light and the horn not sounding on the second hit of the keyless entry happened again. I took it back to the dealer over a week ago, and they both were fixed again. Today, the airbag light came on once more, but so far the security system horn seems to be sounding on the second hit. They said the keyless entry horn issue was a result of a sensor on the hood that needed replace. They replaced it the first time, and adjusted it's placement this past visit to the dealer. The airbag light, the first time they said it was fine and reset the light, the second time they said it was a sensor on the passenger side dash that was broken and needed replace. I'm curious as to what the airbag issue will be this time. Hopefully, the horn issue will not pop up again with the second hit on the keyless entry (sense they seem to have been related in timing to the airbag light). Anyhow else having airbag light issues??
  • davesuvdavesuv Member Posts: 149
    Amazing. I've also had exactly the same problem develop on my Santa Fe within the last several weeks. The red air bag warning light stays on and my key remote no longer activates my alarm system (no flash of the parking lights and no horn sound if I press the lock button twice - the doors will still lock using the remote).

    I took it into the dealer yesterday and they said it needs a new fuse box. My defective fuse box was causing both problems. They have to order a new one and should have it replaced by Monday or Tuesday. I've had no other problems with this wonderful vehicle other than the well-known outside temperature reading error that was fixed per TSB shortly after I picked up my car. Interestingly enough, that problem also had to do with the fuse box (the TSB repair consisted of jumping two of the connectors). Looks like they are having multiple problems with the fuse box.

    Dave
    2007 Santa Fe AWD Limited with Premium and Touring packages
    11,600 miles; 8/1/06 build date; (10/06 purchase date)
  • deanov6deanov6 Member Posts: 13
    I get it too, but it feels more like a "ping" that comes through the floor pan when you turn either side from centre. I've got mind booked into the garage to be looked at on Thursday and they think it is something to do with the suspension bushes. Having looked on other Santa Fe sites, that sounds like a good bet as others have had the same thing.
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    mine is a faint tick that seem like it's from behind driver side dash - i figured out it has nothing to do with steering wheel - that click is another issue altogether...
  • davesuvdavesuv Member Posts: 149
    Just a quick update. The service department hooked their diagnostic computer up and pulled up error code B1332. They replaced the under hood fuse box as per TSB number 07-90-003 and everything is working fine now.

    Dave
    2007 Santa Fe AWD Limited with Premium and Touring packages
    11,600 miles; 8/1/06 build date; (10/06 purchase date)
  • mcapistranomcapistrano Member Posts: 1
    Jeff,

    I own a 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe and recently, I was told that my transfer case needs to be resealed. Would you recommend to take my car to a Hyundai dealership or should I just take it to any shop instead of to a dealership?

    Thanks for your input.
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    find out what hyundai's warranty would be - then check around lee myles or ammco could probably take care of that...
  • shivelytshivelyt Member Posts: 46
    My 2001 Santa Fe GLS now has 82,000 miles and so far has performed well (knock on wood). I am having a clunking noise in the front end which my shop (not the dealer) says is the struts. You hear it going over bumps or entering driveways etc. Says that struts should be replaced--looking at ~$500. I had understood that Hyundais came with inserts in the struts that could be replaced at much less cost. Has anyone replaced struts yet, and what options are available? Thanks for your help. It has been a real blessing in past years.
  • deanov6deanov6 Member Posts: 13
    I'll be interested in any replies to this too. I also have a 2001 with 88,000 miles and am getting a slight "pinging" or knocking in the floor pan over bumps.

    You might get replies at Hyundai Santa Fe Forum as well.
  • darocha12darocha12 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe. I bought it used about 7 months ago & the dealership I bought it from didn't have the alarm remote for it. I just bought one & need to program it. I can't find the alarm control module to program it. Can anyone tell me where it is?

    Thanks!
  • deanov6deanov6 Member Posts: 13
    If you lay in the drivers footwell and look straight up the module is there. I couldn't really see it when I programmed mine but feeling around with my fingers I eventually found the switch to put the alarm in "learning" mode. The most obvious thing you'll see on it is the aerial out the side of the alarm module.
  • rcalverrcalver Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2006 3.5 4WD Santa Fe and have 55,000 kms on it. The transmission starting leaking at about 50,000 kms and the dealer told me it seems to be a 'problem' with the Hyundai Santa Fe. The leak occurred at the front of the transmission and the dealer told me it would be the internal seal which joins the transaxle to the transmission.
    The mechanic told me that the problem seems to be the main shaft that transmits the power from the transmission to the transaxle has 'burrs' from improper machining which in time [about 50,000 kms or so] ruin the integrity of the internal seal and
    'bingo' the tranny starts to leak. The mechanic also told me that changing the seal is the first thing Hyundai will authorize to 'fix' the problem. If the leak persists [and apparently it will] Hyundai will authorize a change of the entire transmission.

    My question to you, "kalaban", is could you tell me why the transmission was replaced "twice after the first month off the lot !!"

    Please reply to my email as, if this problem is going to persist, the 'vehicle' is going to be 'replaced' with one that is represented by a much more reliable company.
    YES, Hyundai refuses to admit 'they' have a problem.........since I now own the car, they say it's my problem even though there's still 45,000 kms supposedly left on the warranty !!!

    Thank you for your most kind assistance in this matter......

    rcalver
  • rcalverrcalver Member Posts: 3
    Excuse me for stating what seems obvious. I"ve just spent several hours reading your 'forum' and in my opinion [be it ever so humble] you must be employed by Hynundai.

    Most of your answers sound exactly like the Hyundai Service Managers and Hyundai's General Managers who I've spoken to recently.

    Also, the best warranty I know of is the one you never have to use..........

    Finally, if you think Hyundai Santa Fe's are so wonderful, perhaps you'd like to buy mine. I've been driving Japanese cars since 1978 and have never failed to get at least 350,000 kms on any of them. One most memorable was an 1989 Honda Accord EXi which I sent to a "wrecking yard" at 525,000 kms. Even the A/C was still working...... :)

    Have a nice day......
  • rcalverrcalver Member Posts: 3
    Is the leak engine oil or transmission oil. My 2006 3.5 4WD Santa Fe has an transmission oil leak in the front of the tranny and transaxle.

    Please let me know what you find out.

    rcalver
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    if the seal is bad and they keep replacing the tranny - it could be poor workmanship - or the seal keeps going bad because there is a problem with the mounts causing too much play between the engine and the tranny causing the seal to repeatedly fail...
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    I tend to agree. At the extreme, if a warranty were really good, for the lifetime you owned the vehicle, any failure not caused by wear and tear would be fixed at no cost.

    But, "at no cost" is the kicker. If you had to bring your vehicle in repeatedly because things kept breaking, or if you were inconvenienced often without a loaner, or if you had to take time off work, or missed getting the kids, or they failed to fix a problem and you had to bring it back multiple times to get it right, or you were treated rudely, or ...... insert situation of your choosing,

    would that warranty really stand for anything? What would be it's value?

    A warranty with seemingly good terms means nothing if the product and/or service fails you.
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    i agree - to have to be stuck with a lemon that they keep fixing for free sucks - no matter what they offer (i.e.: loaner cars, discounts) - i think we would all rather a car that works....
  • nimennimen Member Posts: 1
    can anyone help.. i am facing the same problem here......
    thanks in advance...
  • aserranoaserrano Member Posts: 3
    When I start my car the rpm goes up above 1000rpm and it will normalized below 1000rpm (WITHOUT A/C). When I ON the A/C it drop to 600rpm but it runs smoothly. One problem affect this drop to 600rpm, THE POWER STEERING. Its very hard to turn (left or right) the steering and I need to add gas so that the rpm goes up to 8000 so that I can turn it smoothly. Please need your advise. SOS
  • deanov6deanov6 Member Posts: 13
    That sounds really strange and even worse, I have the opposite problem! My idle speed often (but not always!) goes up to over 2000 rpm all by itself.

    Actually, just a thought, the engine drives the air conditioning compressor by a belt, if the compressor was starting to seize up, this would make the belt very difficult to drive round and could start to slow the engine down (and this in turn would then affect the power steering pump etc) this could be your problem.
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    possible problem with belt tensioner... did you already check power steering fluid?
    true the problem could be a/c compressor going bad - but also check the power steering... how much does the rpm drop with no a/c on and turning the steering wheel?
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    also may have vacuum leak(s)
  • aserranoaserrano Member Posts: 3
    Somedai! and deannov6

    Thanks for your replies!!!

    CORRECTION=Typo error, 800rpm and not 8000rpm (thats too much). I asked my friend mechanic to come to my house this afternoon to check things that you mentioned that affects my no power steering when low rpm.

    One more thing I just found out also that even if the AC is OFF, my RPM goes down to 600rpm when normalized.
  • aserranoaserrano Member Posts: 3
    Steering fluid is at the normal level, and the rpm drops to 600rpm WITH or WITHOUT A/C in turing without stepping on the gas pedal.
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    things to check - does the rpm drop to 600 when in gear only or even when idling - does the rpm go lower when in gear AND on the brakes - check for vacuum leaks in vacuum lines AND at intake manifold AND intake hose (hoses coming from air filter) - AND check brake booster check valve and hose.....
  • earltashearltash Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 2005 Santa Fe new....
    Nothing but a Junk from day 1...
    Timing belts, Brakes,sensors, and the list goes on.....
    I am going back to buying Toyota's.......
    :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick:
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    but hyundai has come a long way - don't you think they may have gotten better?
  • tenpin288tenpin288 Member Posts: 804
    This is from your first and only other post on your Santa Fe from May 2005...

    Just bought a new one, and love it. Put 1000 miles on it in 4 days. Checked gas milage today on back roads at 50-65 MPH. Average of 26 MPG. I have the 2.7 L engine with the 4 speed tranny. Hooked it up to my double ATV trailor to see how it tows. Great!!!! Hardly know the trailor is behind me. Oh it may have to shift up big hills, but it will work just fine. I'll keep everyone posted with updates on how it does in time.

    What happened in the meantime? :confuse: I don't doubt you have had problems, but please give us some more info so that others can make better informed decisions.
  • tinkerbell07tinkerbell07 Member Posts: 28
    I own a 2001 Santa Fe; have only kept it this long because of the expense of replacing it, after many long years of having the car in the shop for numerous problems. Some were covered under the highly touted warranty, but many were not. 500 miles into ownership of my new vehicle, the evaporator stopped working. Thus, no A/C in September in South Florida. Even after receiving a replacement evaporator (so they claimed), the A/C never worked properly until the car went thru a very major check up/tune up. At 12,000 miles a new alternator went in. The window motor burned out. Something in the steering column went. A fuel sensor failed and nearly killed me during entry onto the highway. I had just received the recall notice for that, but not soon enough as my car shut down while I was entering traffic on the interstate. Then the locking mechanism failed on my rear door latch and anyone could open the hatch w/o setting off the alarm. It may have been weeks before I discovered it and I park on the City street. I was fortunate that time. Then another alternator burned out. The left brake light has had the bulb changed many times and it keeps burning out shortly thereafter. The latest mystery, at 80,000 miles, is with the radio, which was allegedly an upgraded model (one of those "mandatory options" that came with the vehicle) that could never seem to pull in half of the stations that my husband gets in his little Toyota Corolla. The radio switches back and forth between CD player and radio, without any help from me, and this without any CD in the mechanism. If I turn it off, it turns itself back on. Honestly! Over and over again, as if it were haunted. The only way to stop it is to turn off the ignition, which is not very convenient when I'm out driving. See what I mean? No more Hyundai for me, no matter how cosmetically appealing the vehicle may be.
  • gojuiceguygojuiceguy Member Posts: 2
    Ok, so my girl has this 02 Santa Fe... goes to the dealership for every scheduled maintenance that it needs... around March of last year the catalytic converter at the exhaust manifold goes out... The dealership does not replace it but does replace the secondary cat.

    Two weeks later the blown out guts of the primary cat clog up the new secondary... this time a Non-Hyundai dealership replaces the primary, but not the secondary, a muffler shop does the honors.

    Three months down the road and the primary goes out again...

    She goes back to the Hyundai dealership... they replace it...

    Again it goes out... it's under warranty... (aftermarket)... it's replaced...

    Now... January 2008 and the primary goes out once more.

    A local shop replaces it... but can't find a reason as to why it keeps failing.

    The car has over 100k on it... at the onset of this problem it had 90k.

    Other than this the car runs find... gets better than 20mph.

    But at $500 per cat... to replace, we are at the $3k level.

    Any ideas?
  • falmarfalmar Member Posts: 7
    Just had my sf repaired and was told it was a cam position sensor valve?
    In laymens terms what is it?
    Aslo I was told I should have a de-carb fuel service clean done. I did not do this, should I have?
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    can't recall exactly what it does - tells computer the position of cam - can't recall what that translates into as far as car function.... but the decarb - should be done every 15k miles - it's a total fuel system cleaning to get all the built up carbon out uf the car engine internally...
  • falmarfalmar Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the info. All I can say is that the engine light came on. So naturally I assumed it was the gas cap. After a few weeks it would go on and off (the light) so I just did not pay attention to it any more. That is until I broke down on the highway. I should have known because my gas milage started to drop a lot in the last few days before the break down.
    I will go back to the dealer and get the de-carb.
  • stuarthstuarth Member Posts: 3
    Does anybody know where I can download details of how to service and carry out repairs on my Santa Fe 2.4. I have tried to contact Hyundai directly without success but as my car is now 6 years old I want to start repairing it myself,especially replacing brake pads. Santa Fe's are not that common in England and bookstores don't stock any technical manuals. Please help.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check the Hyundai Online Shop Manuals Access discussion for links. This post would be a good start:

    doohickie, "Hyundai Online Shop Manuals Access" #7, 27 Nov 2006 11:13 am

    There's some other links in the Online Repair Manuals guide, but I think most owners are pretty happy with the free offerings straight from Hyundai.
  • gojuiceguygojuiceguy Member Posts: 2
    Go directly to the Hyundai website and you can get the only factory service manual that there is for $80.00 US. It's the only shop manual!!!

    Buzz ~
  • falmarfalmar Member Posts: 7
    Is there a way to remove the windshield wipers for replacement. Just the rubber part not the entire arm. I have done my other cars in the past but I can't seem to remove the original wipers for replacement in my Santa Fe? The clip or holder seems to be tight.
  • stuarthstuarth Member Posts: 3
    Many thanks Steve
  • stuarthstuarth Member Posts: 3
    Many thanks gojuiceguy
  • jluc13jluc13 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Santa Fe 4 cyl engine.
    Prior to my 100 mile warranty full warranty under a lawsuit expired I began feeling problems when at a stop or when driving and accelerating that there was no power, it would lurch or just appear like nothing was happening and then it would lurch forward and gear in. I was told by dealer if i cant replicate the problem and no check engine lights come on there is nothing they can do.
    NOW THE STORY BEGINS::
    Late March 2007 107K?? miles I am under a 10y/100K & powertrain 12yr/120K mile warranty due to a lawsuit. I brought it in and same problem and it was noticeable and codes went off and they replaced my transmission under warranty. Some errors in installation and missing parts we decided to take to another dealer. they finished the work correctly and it still displayed the same issues. so again in MID June 2007, codes fly and another transmission has installed, but the problems are resolved for a short time and then it begins again except i take it in and i am being told its how i drive.... wrong.... AUgust same thing occurs the next day i got my car back from taking it in time and time again except now im driving and it drives 35 and then shuts down in middle of traffic i was told i should get a new battery ...... i did fast and it ran fine for a few weeks with very little noticable but i couldnt replicate it enough to prove to mechanic at the dealer. finally again dec 2007 they had my car for nearly a month i replaced the following parts that may relate to the concer:
    2 crankshaft sensors seal
    trans mission service timing belt not sure when but maybe 30K miles before this problem was first taken into the shop in March 2007.
    currently in december 2007:
    crankshaft sensor again due to seal leak and seal
    balance belt
    timing belt
    o2 sensor
    electronic control module (ECM)
    catalytic converter
    coil and spark plugs

    i get car back and bolts loose and I took it back and they fixed bolt but i told them it was shifting funny
    for 3 weeks it slowly began to come back again and this time worse then ever...safety issue too
    im driving from stop or accelerate or drive to accelerate and it wont shift and it ramps up to 5000 - 6000 RPM so i back off pedal and sometimes it shifts and sometimes it doesnt. feels stuck at 65 and wont shift gears....then goes to 30 shakes and loud ping and rattle noise from the engine or under the front of the car. i cant speed up it shakes and feel wont shift and wants to cut out. I have this same problem and now it is worse then starting in March 2007 when was able to replicate it.
    THE SAFETY ISSUE is I was on highway just last saturday and driving 65 with semi behind me and it shuts down to 30 MPH shakes almost stops semi almost ran me over as i try to pull off road.

    Finally, the same codes in dec2007 popped up as it does now..... P0320 /P0300
    now it is back in shop and their techline suggested a fuel reglator on the gas line. i wait 3 days for a part and today they say it isnt it thats wrong.... now they are saying a crankshaft blade.
    PS : mass airflow was checked and no codes are coming up on the transmission. before codes did pop up and now the codes are P0320 & P0300
    input and output speed sensors would pull codes.

    I AM TRYING TO GET MANY HEADS TOGETHER TO FIGURE OUT THIS PROBLEM OUT CAUSE HYUNDAI CANT FIGURE IT OUT AND THIS CAR IS COMPLETELY UNSAFE TO DRIVE.
    PLEASE RESPOND IMMEDIATELY IT IS STILL IN THE SHOP.
  • perelsonperelson Member Posts: 2
    The clutch is slipping badly on my my 2003 Sata Fe with 5 speed manual transmission. The vehicle has 46,000 miles. Is there a way to get Hyundai to cover this repair? Is this normal wear & tear? It seems to me the clutch shoulkd last for more than 46,000 miles. If it is not covered by warranty, is it better to get the clutch repair done at a clutch specialty shop or at the Hyundai dealer?
    Is there a better clutch replacement available in the "after market" than the one that Hyndai will use?
    I've read a post from 1/7/08 on car survey.org that stated that the clutch on his 2004 Santa Fe went out at 43,000 and he was given a new clutch by Hyndai, free of charge beacuse the original clutch was defective: is was a "double mass flywheel" which caused overheating and accelerated clutch wear.
    Does anyone have any information about this "defect"?
  • perelsonperelson Member Posts: 2
    My 2003 Santa Fe with 46,000 miles has a badly slipping clutch.
    I could not locate the TSB you refer to in your 7/11/06 post. Does anyone have any information about this TSB? Anyone have information about how to get Hyundai to pay for the clutch repair?
    If Hyundai won't pay for the clutch repair, is it better to get the repair done at an independent clutch specialty shop than at Hyundai?
  • boltguyboltguy Member Posts: 94
    try this link. If it doesn't work, you may have to create an account at hmaservice.com first.

    03 santa fe clutch tsb
  • jtisonjtison Member Posts: 2
    I'm not a professional (mechanic). I am, however, in the middle of an automatic transaxle course. So you're entitled to take what I say with a grain of salt.

    Just because your ECU isn't throwing codes doesn't mean there's nothing wrong with your tranny. All the ECU can report is what the various sensors report. If your ATF is cooked, at improper level, not to spec, dirty, or heavily oxidized, your clutches and brake bands aren't going to work properly -- this kind of failure often causes the kinds of symptoms you're describing. I know because this has happened to me with other vehicles I've owned. Exact same symptoms, too.

    If a so-called professional looks at your tranny and says there's nothing wrong with it because it's not throwing codes, I'd find another mechanic; particularly if it's out of warranty and I'm paying the bills. And as much as I hate to remind you, P0300 & P0320 have got zippo to do with a tranny.

    I'm looking at the 2002 shop manual, and it sounds to me (from what you describe) that you've got a clutch slipping ... I'd need more information about what "drive to accelerate" means before I'd take a guess at which one.

    I'm also guessing that the pinging and shuddering is happening because of an overrev condition. That's to be expected downshifting from 4th at freeway speed. I just wouldn't make that a habit, if you catch my drift (see if you can park your SF for a while).

    I think you have a faulty transmission on the inside. It probably needs a rebuild. If you look through the list of transmission-related DTCs, you won't find anything for clutch or brake slippage -- they'll catch certain solenoid & valve failures, but not everything that can possibly go wrong. I'd start with a full line pressure test ... you might get a better clue as to *which* clutch/brake/servo ... but it doesn't really matter. You're headed for a rebuilt transmission if my guesses are all right.

    Unfortunately, the only way to actually prove any of this is with a rebuild; but a line pressure test will at least point the way. You're going to have to find a sympathetic transmission specialist to back you up, I'm afraid.

    Has the dealership tried swapping out the ECU yet? They might as well. Something doesn't make sense about the codes it is and has been throwing ... tranny slips and the ECU reports cylinder misfires ... yeah, right. Somehow, I think this problem is over their heads.

    Best of luck.

    --Jim--
  • dc_califdc_calif Member Posts: 2
    I currently have 36k miles on the car ahd have had an issue since I got it. At times it shifts up oddly or shifts noisy. What I'm more concenred with is that someitmes I come to a stop and the car stops but it keeps pushing forward and the rpm's drop and the car nearly stalls. Its as if the car never comes out of gear into natural to stop. The dealer says that there are no codes and they can't reproduce it.

    Anyone else having this problem?

    Thanks in advance.
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    sounds like problems that a few of us have had - turned out to be throttle body or throttle sensor or o2 sensor problem - but it's strange you have had no svc eng light come on... what kind of driving do you do? what kind of gas? been doing the regular scheduled maintenance?
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