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Hyundai Santa Fe Maintenance and Repair (2006 and earlier)

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Comments

  • drhiestdrhiest Member Posts: 2
    Hyundai Santa fe 2002 basic model 85000 miles. Pulled into the garage yesterday and smelt smoke. Opened up hood and there was faint smoke dissipating from deep. All routine maintainence has been done. Engine was not overheating. Didn't notice anything really out of the ordinary. Now it won't start. It turns over but won't fire up. Replaced battery last year and lights work ect. Is this something serious or simple?

    To complicate matters...

    I am looking at buying a 2008 Santa fe and wish to trade in my 2002. I am hesitant to take it to the same dealership I would potentially trade to in the event that they exaggerate the extent of the damages and do an ultra low-ball on me. Any suggestions?
  • drhiestdrhiest Member Posts: 2
    Hyundai Santa fe 2002 basic model 85000 miles. Pulled into the garage yesterday and smelt smoke. Opened up hood and there was faint smoke dissipating from deep. All routine maintainence has been done. Engine was not overheating. Didn't notice anything really out of the ordinary. Now it won't start. It turns over but won't fire up. Replaced battery last year and lights work ect. Is this something serious or simple?

    To complicate matters...

    I am looking at buying a 2008 Santa fe and wish to trade in my 2002. I am hesitant to take it to the same dealership I would potentially trade to in the event that they exaggerate the extent of the damages and do an ultra low-ball on me. Any suggestions?
  • baj9407baj9407 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all, I just had my 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe towed home due to clutch burn out. After reviewing the postings, it's unbelievable that Hyundai has so many problems with the clutch on the Santa Fe. I currently have 48K miles and in all the years I have driven manual transmissions, I never had a clutch to burn out. I would think this is a manufacture defect :lemon:. I drove a 1990 VW Jetta for 13-years and never burnt out the clutch. Before that, I had a 1978 Honda Civic that the clutch wore out (it did not burn out) after 100K miles.

    I am still under the 5year warranty, but I did purchase the 10 year 100K mile warranty, but if the dealership does not honor the repair under warranty do anyone no of a reputable mechanic in the Oakland, CA area that specializes in Hyundai repairs? I will not allow Hyundai to benefit (receive $) for repairs that should be honored under the warranty on a car that doesn't have that many miles.
  • shivelytshivelyt Member Posts: 46
    My 01 Santa Fe has been having a front end problem for the past yerar. Going over bumps or entering driveways etc you get a clunking noise under the front end. Dealer tells me the struts have to be replaced, including mounts, tothe tune of about $900. Says the problem will only get worse. They always do. Has anyone had this problem or only me? Any ideas on how to fix this short of $900? Thanks
  • littbarnlittbarn Member Posts: 1
    Hello there, my santa fe 2.0 td had the flywheel replaced under a recall from hyundai uk there was a serious problem so all flywheels were replaces free in the uk on any vehicles showing symptoms, the main one being a vibrating clutch pedal when you pressed your foot on it. Hope this helps
  • 69dartgts69dartgts Member Posts: 5
    Warning to owners of 01 Santa Fe's , next service stop , have your dealer check your lower control arms on rear suspension for rust thru . i own an 01 model GLS 4wd 2.7v6 130+ miles all trouble free . Major maintance was done by dealer till warr ran out. been doing own maintance after that . But never past a thought about this issue. driver side control arm gave out while driving. Had just left work, still in parking garage when happened, luckly not out on major road or highway. That could have been really bad ! The presure from the spring caused control arm to snap in half. There must be a design flaw , there are no drain holes for water to escape from control arm. Looks like a bathtub where the spring seats to control arm. This is a major repair and can be quiet dangerous if it happens while driving !
    Has anyone had this happen to them or do you have any idea of what i should do ?
  • afyafy Member Posts: 1
    Hello All,
    I have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2003 , 34200 miles only and right now within five years of purchase. IT had a check engine light ON and used to give some starting problems and stall at traffic lights, making unusual sound. I took it to a Goodyear shop for diagonistics and they said that one of the ignition coil is gone bad and a spark plug. But the estimate to replace it is $1200. which includes labor and parts (1 ignition coil, 6 spark plugs, gasket, fuel induction kit /service ).

    My question is,
    1) Will this be covered under warranty from Hyundai Manufacturers.
    2) Do you think the estimate is right?
    3) Any other suggestions.

    Please respond

    Thanks
    Afy
  • oscar_gataoscar_gata Member Posts: 96
    Why don't you bring it into a Hyundai dealership and have them check it out? If the Goodyear shop is right and didn't clear out the codes, then the dealership should be able to tell you if it is covered under warranty.
  • craigercraiger Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Santa Fe and have had the same problem with it since it was brand new. Told Hyundai dealership about it years ago and they said nothing was wrong with it. Fortunately, it has never gotten any worse, but no better either.
  • lulurod4950lulurod4950 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 santa fe hyundai and I need to give it a tune up but I cannot find all of the spark plugs how do find all of them
  • argalargal Member Posts: 2
    I have an '02 SF. I am having 3 problems which i feel are related

    1) The engine occasionally revs up to 2000 rpms, and sometimes more. It will do this at anytime - when I'm sitting at a stop light, sometimes it will just kick in -- if i put it in park, it will continue. This will happen for several minutes then it will stop.

    2) sometimes, it won't start. If i just sit for a while, it will eventually start. Sometimes within 5 minutes, sometimes 45 minutes. I usually smell gas when this happens (after trying to start it)

    if the engine is revving when i stop somewhere, i will not turn the key off until it stops revving --- in my mind, i just think maybe if it is turned off while it's revving, then it won't start when i come back to the car due to being flooded -- I'm probably completely off base, but that's my reasoning--

    but still it keeps happening (won't start)

    it seems to be worse in the summer months (when i run my a/c) -- this has been going on for over a yr -- but through the winter, it didn't happen very much-- over the past couple of weeks since i have started running the air, it has happened 3 times

    3) occasionally, it will die (or try to die) when taking off from a red light -- this is actually how all the troubles began - before the revving (or at least before I noticed it) and before it would not start --but the dying thing has only happened 3 -4 times over a couple of years

    a friend who works on Fords changed a part out for me -- he thought it was causing the revving -- however, it did not help -- i can't remember the name of it (alot of help i am!)

    anyway -- if anyone could give me a clue, I'd sure appreciate it!!

    thanks bunches!
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    no svc eng light on?
  • argalargal Member Posts: 2
    no lights are on.
  • needhelp17needhelp17 Member Posts: 1
    D :confuse: Does anyone have an answer for argal's problem, my car is doing the same thing.
  • jcwsbltdjcwsbltd Member Posts: 167
    I think there have been posts before about throttle sensors being replaced - the accelerator on the S.Fe is not the old fashioned wire type - it's all electronic now. However, I would imaguine ther would be an error code on the OBD computer readout if that was the case.

    If it is suddenly deciding to rev up then that would seem the culprit, or maybe the oxygen sensor. Either way the whole fuel system needs to be checked by the dealer, including vacuum leaks and fuel leaks if you are smelling gas.
  • jodie3jodie3 Member Posts: 2
    My 01, same model, etc., well maintained with only 85K miles is currently in the shop for replacement of both rear lower control arms. I had just gotten off the turnpike when the drivers side went---thank goodness it didn't happen doing the 75+ mph while on the highway. The dealer gave me a price of 2K+ to fix---that is when my husband politely took the phone from me and took over. We had them complete the items that were under warranty, and took the car to our local mechanic---along with the list of things that the dealer stated needed to be fixed. He went over the car top to bottom---and stated that it was extremely odd that the control arms rusted out, and found the same thing you did---there is no drainage. Needless to say, many of the items that the dealer listed are clearly not needed---so the price to replace the control arms and a few other things dropped to approx half of what the dealer wanted. (Our local dealer is known to state that other items are needed when they aren't....and they are always not covered under warranty.......hmmmmmm).
  • jodie3jodie3 Member Posts: 2
    Be it front lovwer control arms or rear----there is definitely a problem with the suspension of most 2001 Hyundai models. In completing add'l research, there are 40+ complaints registered with add'l 2001 Hyundai models for the same problem on the NHTSA website. Although they are stating that it seems to mostly be occuring in what they call the 'salt states' on the east coast---there are many more posts from other states with the same problem. Plus, being from a winter prone area, the cleaning of your undercarriage due to salt etc. is the same as cleaning the exterior---it is a no-brainer. I just had mine repaired (not under warranty......(let the fight begin), and my mechanic could not believe the amount of rust contained, and has saved the parts for review of anyone who wants to take a look. Paper thin is not my idea of a safe vehicle. In addition to the complaints already registered for other models, I have registered a complaint for the 2001 Santa Fe (#1022945). Reimbursement for my costs of course would be great, however, this is such a dangerous defect---it is more important to have it acknolwedged by Hyundai.
  • tjg00tjg00 Member Posts: 5
    Ok heres the deal. My 03 Santa Fe recently got a timing belt changed at 62K miles. Didnt need it but read it was a good idea with these vehicles. I also had them check my cluster due to the fact that my speedometer was going crazy wether I'd be on the highway or back roads it will tell me I was going 0mph. Not a good thing..They stated that they hooked it up and could find nothing wrong with it. This was checked along with the timing belt that was changed in May. I have had no problems with the speedometer at all now it is the gas gauge telling me I am empty even after filling up. This seems to only happen if it is running and in park or sitting at a red light for a few mins. Hmmm? Not sure what this is.

    Recently drove about 400 miles to beach and back. Drove the suv all week and no MIL light. Drove to work and from work today no MIL. Pull into sitters to pick up kids, put suv in park (leaving it running) come back out and the MIL light was on. Checked the gas cap since got gas yesterday and it was tight. Left it sit for 3 hours. Took kids for a ride and it was still on...Anyone think this could all be a cluster problem? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated..
  • eterrieneterrien Member Posts: 2
    I had the battery replaced just a few years ago, but I'd had trouble starting the car about 7 months ago. So in January of 2008 the Hyundai dealer said even though the battery was still under warranty and supposed to still be good, it wasn't. So they replaced it. The starting issue went away for about a week and then the trouble began again. I just lived with it for a while, but then others (friends and such) started to notice my car had trouble starting.

    I went back to the dealer and got the timing belt changed last week (July 2008) at 70,000 miles. It started fine at the dealer, even though I told them it was having trouble and it smelled like gas when it did have trouble starting with me. They did a "diagnostic" and checked the fuel line and said all was ok.

    I left the dealership and the next day it had trouble starting again.

    Every once in a while you'll turn the key and it starts right up. Most of the time you turn the key and then engine tries to turn over for about 3-5 second before it actually starts.

    What should I be asking the dealership to look for????

    Thank you,
    Elizabeth
  • kreuzerkreuzer Member Posts: 131
    '04 Santa Fe 3.5l FWD. I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the digital clock will sometimes just not show up and then suddenly reappears? This has happened a couple of times and I thought that maybe it was the heat in the car doing this, since it is Summer. I also have a problem with the CD player not ejecting the CD. It will flash " Check CD" and the only way I can retrieve my CD is to be very quick and grab the CD edge when it begins to eject and right before it tries to reload it. I just bought this vehicle used and it's still under the 30 day warranty from the dealer and is also under the 60,000mi warranty. Should I take it back to the dealer or to a Hyundai dealer since it still is under the 60,000mi. warranty? Any suggestions? Thanks everyone.
  • rick_carick_ca Member Posts: 1
    This Happend to my04 Sante Fe turned out it was the crank sensor hope this helps
  • degemidegemi Member Posts: 2
    2001 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4L

    Original problem – Car ran fine for 122K, then, from a cold start, I drove 2 miles and suddenly, without warning, lost power and began to lurch. I got to the side of the road and shut it off . After one hour, tried again, started as usual …. went 1 mile and it did the same. Towed to Hyundai Dealer.

    The mechanic did the following: 1) new timing belt, new crank sensor --- at this point it would start & was sluggish when driven. 2) new cable from crank sensor, new serpentine belt, new coolant temperature sensor, new oxygen sensor, new exhaust manifold --- starts and is sluggish when testing, No change! 3) new cam position sensor & connector, new mass air flow sensor, and used fuel pump. There are no codes showing. Therefore, I have a mystery. The Dealer has given up!

    At present, the car starts fine, idles fine but has no power on acceleration. Within one mile the car begins to slow until within three miles it will stop all together. After a 30 to 60 minute wait, I can do the same again. At rest, it idles fine. In Park, it will rev smoothly, no misfire or hesitation. In Drive, I press the accelerator with my foot on the brake and it bogs down a lot.
  • jmignonejmignone Member Posts: 3
    Hi, my Santa Fe has always run perfectly, then suddenly this same problem, I have it in a reputable shop and they are pulling their hair out too. Did you find the solution? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!! Thanks!!!!
  • jmignonejmignone Member Posts: 3
    New to site, forgive any redundancy. My 01 Santa Fe ran perfectly for 119K miles, then bogged like an old car that vapor locked. Runs fine in park and up to about 2K RPM then no power. Have it in my favorite/reputable shop and they are stumped as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
  • somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    what did the mechanics find or test so far - a lot of things could cause that...
  • jmignonejmignone Member Posts: 3
    To all who are having problems like this check the coil pack. My '01 Santa Fe ran perfectly for 119k miles then suddenly this problem. No codes showed up, etc. It turned out to be the coil pack. Heat or age caused one of the terminals to melt. There was also indication that some shorting between the coils had occurred. This problem can mimic lots of other problems. The car feels more powerful than ever. Hope this helps someone.
  • bnberniebnbernie Member Posts: 20
    Try the fuel pressure regulator. It sits on top of the engine, there is a small black host going to it. Pull the hose off, if it has fuel in it, or smells like fuel, that's the problem.

    Hope this helps.

    Bernie
  • gomp5gomp5 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem It's not mine I had to take down the cylinder head to drill out the glowplugs After that the car won't start changed the crankshaft and camshaft sensors but still no signal at the injectors. i unplugged the ECU and tried another but no results. The dealer told me I have to reprogramm the key.
    Please help
  • lostsamurailostsamurai Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe that I recently purchased from a used car dealership. When I bought it I knew that the radio works fine but the display doesn't show anything. Does anyone know how to fix this or what might be causing it? (I suspect a loose wire but I don't know how to check it)

    Also, does anyone know how to flip the rear seat cushion to fold the back seat down flat? I tried following the directions in the owner's manual but it still doesn't work. I pull the cloth ring strap but I'm pulling so hard that I'm afraid I might rip the the strap off. Is there a lever or other strap to unlock it or something? Any suggestions are helpful. Thanks.
  • greentree2greentree2 Member Posts: 1
    I have an '06 Santa Fe and there are two cloth straps to release the back seat. The first is a small loop of the same material as the car seat, this merely keeps the actual release strap in place. The actual release strap is made from a black nylon material. It sounds like you're pulling on the first piece which I have mistakenly done several times with no result. If you dont see the black strap it has probably slipped out of place and is under the seat, if you can get one side of the seat up you may be able to reach the strap from the side or try and fish it out with a coat hanger? hope this helps
  • 1234693212346932 Member Posts: 33
    I have a 2003 - front wheel - 6 cyl - 2.7 - santa fe. Can anyone tell me where thefuel filter is located and if I can change it? thanks
  • lec2010lec2010 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm in need of help for my 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe. I apologize in advance; I am not at all knowledgeable about cars. The problem: There is a grinding/motor noise coming from the rear hatch whenever I try to lock the car. It has power locks that have never failed before, but all of a sudden, no matter how you try to lock it the car's power locking system won't lock and the motor/grinding noise comes from the back. I can lock each door separately, manually, but this still leaves the rear hatch unlocked. I feel it has to have something to do with the rear hatch locking mechanism in specific, because when the hatch is simply opened then closed, upon closing it makes that noise. It's currently at the dealer, and their "rough estimate" is approximately $300, not including parts or even knowing what's wrong. They said that price is because they have to take the driver's door and rear hatch off to try to figure out what the problem is. PLEASE, if anyone has advice , I really need help.
  • jcwsbltdjcwsbltd Member Posts: 167
    Sounds like the locking actuator is either sticking or has gone kaput,if it makes the sound while locking doors. They have to remove the door to take off the inside door panel for access and check behind it for the mechanism.

    The only advice I can give is if they replace any parts, make sure you see the old parts they removed - just for proof. Good Luck.
  • stangraffstangraff Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 Santa Fe and I just installed the cabin filter. It is tricky. You have to pull back the fuzzy piece of tape on the outside right side of the glovebox. Then close the box a little and from the inside pull on the plastic piece with the thin cable on it. After you get enough slack to rotate the plastic piece so its end can slip into the hole, push it though so it is not attached to the box any longer.

    Next you don't have to undo any screws. All you have to do is press on both sides of the box (it's made of plastic) enough that the plastic post (with rubber bumpers) on each side clears the wall slots. You'll see what I'm talking about. Keep in mind that in cold weather the box will be hard to deform enough so the posts clear. But keep at it. You'll get it eventually. Then the box will rotate down to the floor, exposing the little door of the cabin air filter space.

    You'll see the black plastic door with its little rotating lock on it staring you in the face. Rotate the locking handle (there is only one way it can rotate to open the panel door) and pull off the panel door.

    You will notice that your filter comes in what looks like two identical filters. Nope, one goes on the bottom and the other on top. Also there is probably an air flow arrow on the front of each. Make sure the arrow points to the left when you install.

    The filter with no little nibs on each corner is the one that gets slipped in first. You slide it in all the way and then press it down. It will seat when you are all the way down.

    Then you take the other half and the nibs should be pointing down. These nibs engage a slot on each side of the lower filter. The top filter gets pushed straight back...while riding on the lower's top slots. When it is even with the lower filter's front, you are done.

    Replace the panel and lock it. Then reinsert the plastic piece with the thin cable through the slot on the glove box after you have lifted the glove box back up. Replace the tape on the outside. At the same time you push the box like you were going to close it and the posts on either side will slide back into the slots on the sidewall. You have completed the installation.
  • stangraffstangraff Member Posts: 3
    This is a repeat posting, but from a different topic. I have a 2004 Santa Fe and I just installed the cabin filter. It is tricky. You have to pull back the fuzzy piece of tape on the outside right side of the glovebox. Then close the box a little and from the inside pull on the plastic piece with the thin cable on it. After you get enough slack to rotate the plastic piece so its end can slip into the hole, push it though so it is not attached to the box any longer.

    Next you don't have to undo any screws. All you have to do is press on both sides of the box (it's made of plastic) enough that the plastic post (with rubber bumpers) on each side clears the wall slots. You'll see what I'm talking about. Keep in mind that in cold weather the box will be hard to deform enough so the posts clear. But keep at it. You'll get it eventually. Then the box will rotate down to the floor, exposing the little door of the cabin air filter space.

    You'll see the black plastic door with its little rotating lock on it staring you in the face. Rotate the locking handle (there is only one way it can rotate to open the panel door) and pull off the panel door.

    You will notice that your filter comes in what looks like two identical filters. Nope, one goes on the bottom and the other on top. Also there is probably an air flow arrow on the front of each. Make sure the arrow points to the left when you install.

    The filter with no little nibs on each corner is the one that gets slipped in first. You slide it in all the way and then press it down. It will seat when you are all the way down.

    Then you take the other half and the nibs should be pointing down. These nibs engage a slot on each side of the lower filter. The top filter gets pushed straight back...while riding on the lower's top slots. When it is even with the lower filter's front, you are done.

    Replace the panel and lock it. Then reinsert the plastic piece with the thin cable through the slot on the glove box after you have lifted the glove box back up. Replace the tape on the outside. At the same time you push the box like you were going to close it and the posts on either side will slide back into the slots on the sidewall. You have completed the installation.
  • 1234693212346932 Member Posts: 33
    Hosts, Steve or Tidestar, can you offer any advise, concerning Msg# 1780. thank you
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You should find the fuel filter underneath the car on the passenger side. It likely has a plastic cover over it held in place with a couple of bolts.

    Good luck!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The online repair manual I have access to doesn't say anything about the fuel filter in an '03 Santa Fe.

    Try asking in Edmunds Answers if you still can't find it from Tidester's description.
  • falmar1falmar1 Member Posts: 12
    Is there a way to get to the rear speakers in my 2004 SantaFe? As I drive along the speakers give out this thumping noise. They appear to be loose but how do I remove the rear panels for access?
  • 1234693212346932 Member Posts: 33
    Steve, thanx for your reply. I am at a loss, because the owners manual list a scheduled changed for the fuel filter, but there is nothing in the index, for a fuel filter.
  • 1234693212346932 Member Posts: 33
    Tidester, thanx, just noticed your reply to my message. As soon as the weather changes, I'll take a look.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    This parts place sells one for the '02-'03 Santa Fe and says it's an OEM fuel filter. If you can believe the site, it fits on the bottom of the fuel pump inside the tank, which wouldn't make it something they'd expect you to change frequently unless access to the pump in the tank is lots easier than it is on most cars.

    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide says it gets changed at 52,500 and 105,000 miles.

    Any owners lurking who've actually changed out their fuel filter?
  • degemidegemi Member Posts: 2
    A new shop replaced both catalytic converters. Problem solved.
  • robbie74robbie74 Member Posts: 1
    hi there,
    did you solve your problem with alarm as i am in the same boat with a 02 santa fe and would realy like if you could help me please. wizardofoz74@yahoo.com
    cheers
    robbie :cry:
  • johncjohnc Member Posts: 7
    How does one remove the interior door panels and the rear interior side panels on the Santa Fe 2004. What holds these panels on? Is there a trick or a procedure to follow? Are there invisible clips or screws? Is there a special tool required? Where can I find this information? At this time I want to remove the rear side panels in the cargo area under the window.
    John
  • anthony78anthony78 Member Posts: 1
    Recently my heater core as gone out and I have had it replaced. The mechanic said that it flooded the computer (both located in dash) and said that is why the entire dashboard lights, gauges, radio illumination are working only sometimes. They wanted 300 bucks to diagnose it and said it probably wouldnt be worth it to replace. Is this true? Could it be a relay instead or some other issue all together? The problems only started happening after the heater core when out and before and after it was replaced. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
  • ncampncamp Member Posts: 2
    My Santa Fe gets stuck in 3rd gear when driving. Have to pull over turn it off and
    restart. In the morning after warming up, it won't go into gear, lots of stopping,
    jerking and thunking. Does this sound like the Transmission shift computor? or
    the sensor? I also see notes about a faulty switch in console shifter housing.

    ncamp
  • paphospetepaphospete Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2.7 petrol Santa Fe' that I bought new in 2002. I've had numerous faults that are far too long to go into here and for reasons best known to themselves, the Cypriot dealers only give a three year warranty instead of the five offered elsewhere.

    Yesterday I had a 'check engine' warning light come on and the vehicle is running 'lumpy'. I have no choice but to go to a main dealer here in Cyprus but have no confidence in their ability to find the fault or charge the correct amount.

    Any offers anyone? What should I be looking at?

    Pete
  • ncampncamp Member Posts: 2
    I had my Sante Fe into our Hyundai Dealer and 3 other mechanics. I was told everything from a module to a new transmission!
    I took it to our local Jiffy Lube and all it needed was transmission fluid. Although
    I have it serviced as required, it seems to run low. The check light in mine has
    always come on when low on oil or transmission fluid.

    Funny all the mechanics missed that!
  • v11lestatv11lestat Member Posts: 4
    I just had a rear lower control arm failure with my Santa Fe. It is at my mechanic now. In the course of doing research on recalls, I find that Hyndai has finally issued a safety recall for this defect.
    Santa Fe SUSPENSION:REAR Recall – ID# 67756
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