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Honda Civic Si / SiR 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • drewzledrewzle Member Posts: 12
    Thanks gee35coupe for the prompt answer. I don't know why I didn't look in there first. But today I also put the milk in the cubbord and the cereal in the fridge. *Dohh* Another quick question. When I was rotating my tires yesterday I noticed that there was a considerable amount of rust on a nut and rod above the brakes.(which I assume is the tie rod) The "Bushing" (cylindrical rubber or plastic thinggee) looked like a flattened marshmallow.(maybe a half an inch tall) It looks like there is a gap between the material and the nut. I don't feel any problems in the cars handling, but is this something I should replace. I mean, it looks like crap. (I don't have much experience but it looks cheap and easy to replace.) Perhaps it looked smaller from me jacking the car up? The wheels were facing foward for the most part. Or am I insane for expecting my car to be all nice and shiny on the underneath?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I am also new to this forum and own a 2003 Honda Civic Si. My Car (which I bought new in 02/2004 as a left over) currently has 33k. I have never taken it into honda for service. The only reason I think you may want to do this is to keep it pre-owened certified. I don't feel that they would do any special diagnostics or voodoo magic to keep it running better than it would otherwise with routine maintenance. Perhaps plugging into the computer will give the mechanic special information or something, I'm not sure. I'm not a mechanic, I'm an accountant. But what I will say is that the price of these services is astronomical for the benifit they provide. And once I pay it off or I fully amortize my warrenty I'm going to start moding it. (Little things, no turbo, no insane body kit, you get the idea.) I have heard claims from honda that you don't need to bring it in till 10k miles. That's insane. (Or at least that was the impression of the sales person selling the car.) It is good that you change the oil every 3k. It keeps your fuel economy up (which pays for itself by the way), keeps your engine in good condition and protects the enviroment. I will say this however, promptly after 30k, the "MAINT REQU'D" light keeps flashing after I start the car. It goes away after 8 or 10 flashes. I suspect the computer in the car "knows" it hasn't been back to Honda. This will ultimatetly make me take it to the dealer. And soon. Although the car runs as good as the first day I bought it, it is FOREMOST ON MY MIND AT ALL TIMES!!!! If someone else with more expertize gives you an a copesetic answer to your question, please let me know. Good Luck to you. -Drewzle

    You are a professional (accountant you said) which would mean you are educated, or maybe even intelligent. It is a shame that you did not even bother to read the owners manual. It clearly states which conditions warrant 10,000 mile service and clearly states what the "Maintenance Required" light is and how to reset it. Rather than relying on hearsay, why not get it from the source -- Honda owner's manual that came with the car? Shame Shame Shame. RTFM!!!!
  • drewzledrewzle Member Posts: 12
    Hee Hee. Your grumpy. I skimmed the manual when I first got it most my time was occupied trying to pick up girls in the Si. :) Of course after I got the bill from progressive showing my premium skyrocket....my concern was elsewhere. Should I have read the manual first...well yeah. But that was yesterday's question and it was already answered.

    1. Keys in off position
    2. Depress knob on the right side of instrument panel and hold
    3. Start car, wait till the light goes away and let go.

    Worked like a charm.

    So save the shame for the Tie Rod question and all future dumb questions.(there will be more don't worry) Peace Brother. -Drewzle
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    My 6 month policy through Progressive looks like this.

    2004 Accord $201
    2004 Odyssey $211
    2003 Civic $208
    1994 LS400 $440 /with $1000 deductible.

    I don't get why you guys are geting so slammed on you SI's.
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    You're an old man now. A married old man at that. Heck you are a married old man with a mini-van.

    Any more questions? :P
  • skeetbagskeetbag Member Posts: 4
    Hey drewz
    I am an accountant with a 2003 Si also...hmmm anyway I just passed the 30k mark myself, and the maintenance light will eventually stay on until reset. If you want to service the car somewhere else or do it yourself, just hold down the odometer reset button with the key in the on position before starting the car...then continue holding the reset button and start the car. Hold it down for another 8-10 seconds and that will reset your maintenance required light.
  • skeetbagskeetbag Member Posts: 4
    my bad didn't; read the posts explaining the solutions that were already there.
  • s1r2002s1r2002 Member Posts: 1
    I guys and gals, I'm new to this forum, and I need a little advise. I own a 2002 sir (from canada) and the front end is making all kinds of hellish noise. I've owned this car since new, and it has just started doing it. The car has been lowered since it was new, with eichbach sportline springs, and i recently put 17" wheels on it. DOes anyone think that the wheels might have something to do with this noise?? :confuse:
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    It's been documented on several EP forums. It's the steering rack. Mine is also lowered on 17's and I've heard the noise but it went away. If it comes back I'm selling the car.

    I heard there is a new TSB. But possibly no warranty coverage since your car has those springs.
  • skeetbagskeetbag Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 Si and my clutch pedal makes a clicking sound every time i depress it...any ideas?
    Thanks.
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    gee35 - I thought the noise was from the tie rod ends?

    skeetbag - Another known problem, the dealer will either oil it or replace your master cylinder.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    Several on other forums have had to get them replaced. It's a $1500 job.
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    Have you heard about J's racing tie rods? ($260) These are supposed to fix the creak. Although the problem is probably caused by the rack in the first place.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    There is also a way to "flip" the ends. But my drop is only 1.5". I shuldn't have to to all that. It aligns o factory specs still. Anyway, some people have gotten the creak with stock set-ups. I'm gonna get an Element.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    There is also a way to "flip" the ends. But my drop is only 1.5". I shuldn't have to to all that. It aligns o factory specs still. Anyway, some people have gotten the creak with stock set-ups. I'm gonna get an Element.

    Test drive the Element throughly. And if you have a chance drive the CR-V manual side by side. CR-V feel more nimble, if you can say that about an SUV. Although Element has the shifter in the same location as the Si, CR-V feels less top heavy and more stable in turns. Even though CR-V and Element have the same drive train, the CR-V feels faster. Don't go for the auto CR-V though, it is a dog. At least the manual CR-V is only a half second to a second behind the Si in 0-60 test.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    I drove a 2wd one and thought it was okay. I don't plan on running a slalom in it. I used to have a 2 door RAV4 and loved it too. I'm not one of those nuts that thinks an SUV is a sports car.

    I'm gonna buy a AWD 5 speed on in the silver/blue color. I think that's the best combo out right now. I was gonna drive the SI til 100K but all the talk about the creak with no warranty help makes me nervous.
  • skeetbagskeetbag Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the response muffin man. I'll get that checked out.

    I have one other problem, everytime I get in this car and start driving, I promptly and frequently get stopped by government officials telling me that I'm violating something called a "speeding ordinance?!" I have gathered quite a collection of certificates confirming this, and am running out of storage space--any ideas?

    :cry:
  • gmajorgmajor Member Posts: 2
    A better choice among these?? Topyota wins on practicality and good engine. Honda sportiest, Scion, good looks and complete accessory list. All about the same $$, long term advice??
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    I'm not too worried about the steering rack. I'd be willing to bet Honda ends up fixing a lot of out of warranty racks, out of good faith.

    I've test driven a 5-spd 2WD Element, and an automatic AWD. The AWD was an absolute dog, but I'm sure it would be somewhat improved with a 5-spd. I can't imagine you going from the Si to the Element and liking it. Then again, you do have pretty unusual taste in cars. I like the looks of the Element, but it isn't all that fun to drive. You guys won't have any fun cars in the stable once the Si is gone, you must be shopping for something...
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    coupe that I think Gee should look at as a replacement for the Si but he doesn't seem to fond of the idea.

    We found the AWD automatic Element to be a dog as well. That's what we intended to buy when we found out we were having little Gee. Test drove the automatic AWD and couldn't deal with the lack of power. Ended up buying an automatic EX-L Accord which has since been traded for a 5-speed EX-L Accord but that's a different story.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    a 5-spd AWD Element, and found it to be "strong but slow". If you keep it revving it can be fun. But I am sure that style of driving would produce atrocious mileage - it is only rated 21/24. The back seats in that thing are too high and narrow - they are just plain uncomfortable. But Ilike the folding/removing feature for the seats and the skylight (drove an EX; LX doesn't have the skylight).

    It felt pretty nimble, but NOTHING like an SI. No-one in my area ever has a manual-shift CRV, so I have not been able to try the Element/CRV back to back.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    Mazda6/5/3, Lexus IS 250, Element, Altima, G35, Saab 9-3, another Accord, some of everything. We are gonna go test driving today to see if anything fits me. I would have to get rid of the Civic though. It's one of my favorite cars I have ever owned,
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    At first I thought you meant a 2000 Mazda 323... Don't know why he would want a 323 coupe, it's probably less fun to drive than the Accord you have already.

    So the reason you are getting rid of the Civic is the steering rack? Because if it's one of the top cars you've ever owned, seems nuts to drop it now (and you've owned about a million cars, so that is really saying something). But to address your alternatives:

    Mazda6 - Family sedan. You already have an Accord, isn't that enough?
    Mazda5 - Is this out yet? I'd like to drive it, but it is still too minivan for me.
    Mazda3 - Wait for the Mazdaspeed3 if you're going to do this.
    Lexus IS250 (350?) - Is this out yet?
    Element - 2wd is ok, 4wd stinks, but what's the point of 2wd in this car?
    Altima - Family sedan, worse than the Accord or Mazda6 - please, please skip it.
    G35 - Great car, but I'm bored of it.
    Saab 9-3 - My favorite on this list, wait for the convertible 6-cylinder Aero
    Accord - Nice car, but not good enough to have two.

    I've been thinking a lot about my Si lately, and I can't come up with a car that would be worth trading it in for right now. (under $25k) The only cars that are even coming soon that I'm particularly into are the new Miata (I won't call it anything else) and the new Suzuki Swift (which probably isn't coming at all). Maybe the Solstice or Sky.

    I like small cars, preferably hatchbacks and convertibles. I like the looks of the Mazda3, but is it better in any way than the Si? Not really. Mini Cooper is either too slow, or overpriced. Not going to be a VW at this point (next GTI). MR2 Spyder is going away. Where's that Swift GT?

    Rather than buying a new car, put some money into the Si - I see the JRSC for under $2k...
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    the same question this morning. "If you love your Si THAT much why are you going to get rid of it?". He has had that car longer than any other excluding the Lexus but he actually drives the Civic so that makes it that much more impressive. I have to admit that I am an enabler and I have the car buying bug so I am throwing suggestions out there.

    We kind of need a car like the Element but we've made do this long so .... I've come to the conclusion Gee should keep his Si and take his chances. We have been loyal Honda customers and I would hope that they would be willing to work with us on the steering rack if and when it does go bad.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    I think I'm over it now. I just have the car buying bug. It'll pass.

    But as for family cars being boring, I find our EX-L stick a hoot to drive. For the 99% of the driving we do it's perfect. I'm sure the Altima SE-R would be just as well suited. My last name ain't Senna or Fangio.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    coupe that I think Gee should look at as a replacement for the Si but he doesn't seem to fond of the idea.

    We found the AWD automatic Element to be a dog as well. That's what we intended to buy when we found out we were having little Gee. Test drove the automatic AWD and couldn't deal with the lack of power. Ended up buying an automatic EX-L Accord which has since been traded for a 5-speed EX-L Accord but that's a different story.

    I am not sure they had a Mazda 323 in 2000. I am pretty sure it was name PRotege by then and there was no 2 door. The 323 was replaced by Protege in the mid 90's. The last 323 hatch looked like toilet upside down.

    Are you talking BMW 323?
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    It didn't have a sunroof though. A "loaded" Bimmer without a roof. That's rare.
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    My only problem with the Si right now is that I want to lower it again, it handled so much better. And I am willing to spend th emoney on those aftermarket tie-rods, but I will be pretty irritated if they don't work. If they did work, I could see myself sticking with the Si for a while - maybe even supercharging it. The base JRSC - not going to go turbo, too expensive, too much hassle.
  • sifreaksifreak Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased an 02 honda civic si last week. I do not have an owners manual and im planning on having someone take the factory stereo out this saturday. What my question is...how do you get it out. I have looked all over the place for screws and all to remove dash to get to it. I know they have to be there somewhere. If someone knows could you please help. I know this probably isnt the right place to post this, but im new to this..and im desperate!!! Thanks! :)
  • crashton6crashton6 Member Posts: 245
    You might want to try EP Hatch .com. They have a how to section there that may help you.

    Chuck
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I just purchased an 02 honda civic si last week. I do not have an owners manual and im planning on having someone take the factory stereo out this saturday. What my question is...how do you get it out. I have looked all over the place for screws and all to remove dash to get to it. I know they have to be there somewhere. If someone knows could you please help. I know this probably isnt the right place to post this, but im new to this..and im desperate!!! Thanks!

    It is not in the owener's manual anyway. IF that someone is a professional installer, they should know how to do it. If not, you are better off buying radio from Crutchfield, because you will get installation kit and wiring harness adapter for free, and you will get detailed instructions on how to replace the radio. LEt me know if you need $20 off $200 discount code.
  • mr_2fast4umr_2fast4u Member Posts: 1
    hey guys

    im a 17 year old who has a 2004 Civic si Coupe. Im looking into lowering it. any suggestions?
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    We have an entire board for just these types of modification questions... if you could, post your question in the Speed Shop: Tuning & Modification. You can create a new discussion there - either for Si mods or "Lowering a Car" would be good.">link title
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    That's just great. Right when I was about to put my stock suspension bits on Ebay.

    That 2001 EX-L 5 speed Accord is starting to look great again. I know I'm all over the place. Whatever......
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    Gotta laugh!
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    has waaay too much time on his hands.
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    ...and he is looking for any excuse to switch cars!
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    Not really at the Vette stage. Maybe I should get that new Pontiac Solstice....LOL Or the new Saturn vert.
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    My next car is going to be either the new Miata, Solstice, or Sky. Maybe.
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    Your question has been moved to the discussion Honda Civic: Prices Paid & Buying Experience where people are talking prices and can share their info with you.
  • drewzledrewzle Member Posts: 12
    I was wondering what peoples thoughts were on Motor Oil. There are many brands and grades to choose from but I would like to hear what people use and why. I have always gone to the quick lube places and have mixed results. I am going to change the oil myself (first time I have done this) on My '03 Si this weekend.
    I purchased (mostly from H and A) :
    Factory Spec Oil filter (the new little ones)
    Special filter Wrench
    Drain plug washers
    Castrol Synthetic 5w20
    Gunk Out.

    I figure since I don't know if mineral oil was in the mix of any of the other Oils the Quicky Lube places use I would use Gunk-out to remove any deposits. Since I am a coward, I figure I will use only half the bottle and run for 5 min. ( I truley worry about Deposits because Honda's rev so damn high. Not like my old '84 Camaro Berlinetta)
    Then Change oil as normal. Drive for a bit and make sure it doesn't leak. Check the Oil in the morning and I figure I'm good to go. I don't use any additives (which the manual advises) but was wondering if anyone else uses them in their Si.

    Is Gunk Out a neccessary step? Is there risks that I am not aware of? Any hints or tricks of the trade? I can research and read about it all I want but I'm looking for advice with someone with practical experience. Oh yeah and by the way, I bought ramps but its still real tight squeeze, (didn't lower my car or anything to the suspension) Should I use jack stands? Don't say dig a pit, I live on solid rock. Thanks!!! Cheers!!! :)
  • crashton6crashton6 Member Posts: 245
    I don't have a Civic SI, but am considering one. I do have lots of experience changing oil & taking care of cars. Did my first oil change in 1965 on a 57 Pontiac Star Chief. Left a trail of oil down the drive. I thought my dad was going to kill me.

    As far as brands go I've been using Mobile 1 synthetic in my cars since 1990 or so. I like the idea of the oil being better than my car really needs. If I happen to over heat the car or have some other malady the oil is likely to take any abuse just fine.

    Ok enough about me. NO do not put that flush carp in your nice Honda. If you feel it needs a flush just change the oil & then do it again in 500 or 1000 miles or so.

    I applaud you for changing your own oil. No one will do a caring oil change like you will. ;)

    Chuck
  • mplssimplssi Member Posts: 2
    hi, i am a new si owner. what's this business about the steering rack going bad, please?
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    there are reports of the power steering rack going bad on the 02-03 Si's. If I am not mistaken one sign that it is going bad is what they call " the creak of death". It also appears that the 04+ Si's do not have this problem.
  • mplssimplssi Member Posts: 2
    oh, okay! thanks. i have a 2004. it had 510 miles on it---dealer demo.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I was wondering what peoples thoughts were on Motor Oil. There are many brands and grades to choose from but I would like to hear what people use and why. I have always gone to the quick lube places and have mixed results. I am going to change the oil myself (first time I have done this) on My '03 Si this weekend.
    I purchased (mostly from H and A) :
    Factory Spec Oil filter (the new little ones)
    Special filter Wrench
    Drain plug washers
    Castrol Synthetic 5w20
    Gunk Out.

    I figure since I don't know if mineral oil was in the mix of any of the other Oils the Quicky Lube places use I would use Gunk-out to remove any deposits. Since I am a coward, I figure I will use only half the bottle and run for 5 min. ( I truley worry about Deposits because Honda's rev so damn high. Not like my old '84 Camaro Berlinetta)
    Then Change oil as normal. Drive for a bit and make sure it doesn't leak. Check the Oil in the morning and I figure I'm good to go. I don't use any additives (which the manual advises) but was wondering if anyone else uses them in their Si.

    Is Gunk Out a neccessary step? Is there risks that I am not aware of? Any hints or tricks of the trade? I can research and read about it all I want but I'm looking for advice with someone with practical experience. Oh yeah and by the way, I bought ramps but its still real tight squeeze, (didn't lower my car or anything to the suspension) Should I use jack stands? Don't say dig a pit, I live on solid rock. Thanks!!! Cheers!!!

    I am with Crashton6, GUNK out is not needed. And if by revving high you mean the lowest revving Honda ever, you have seen nothing yet. The Si cuts out at 6800 RPM, which is very low by Honda standards. The 1999-2000 I believe reved to 8000 RPM, and the S2000 revs to almost 10,000. This is the nature of the engine and there nothing wrong with bring it to the red line every time you feel the urge to pull away. There was an article that the piston speed in the K24 in the TSX approaches sonic speeds at red line.

    Lose Castrol Syntec, unless you got the one that says it was made in Germany. All other Castrols are just purified dyno oil. If you are going to pay for synth oil, buy real synth from Mobil 1. You can get a calendar at PEPboys for $1 to benefit MAAD, there is coupon inside for "buy 3, get 3 free" Mobil 1. Wait until it is on sale for $3.99, buy 3, get 3 free, then send your recepit to Mobil 1 rewards and get a $5 supercertificate. This makes Mobil 1 oil changes cheaper than dyno changes.

    As far the actual procedure, I used to remove the passenger side front wheel to access the filter and drain plug.
  • john500john500 Member Posts: 409
    I had to go the dealer the other day to get a replacement gas cap (failed inspection). While I was there, I asked him about the steering rack on the 02 and later SI's and he claims that his dealership hasn't done any steering rack replacements. Does the steering rack fail only on lowered cars or is this universal? Any quantitative info (defects per 100 cars, etc) about the steering rack?

    Oil change- I've done the oil change a few times myself. I ran it up on ramps (the lower the slope the better so that the front end doesn't rub), blocked the rear tires, put on the brake and put it in gear. Pretty straightforward change. You are aware of the needed drain plug washer. If I remember this car correctly , the filter is in a somewhat awkward spot- you'll have to turn the wrench quite a few times to get a full revolution. After reinstalling and tightening the filter and drain plug, I let the car slide down the ramp without starting and then add the oil to make sure I don't misread the level (on ramps- might misrepresent actual oil level due to tilt). I just go to the dealership now to minimize the risk of having the car fall on me. Blue-eyed gods' idea about removing the front tire for access might be good - didn't try that on the oil change - only when installing the intake.
  • drewzledrewzle Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for the Comments about the Oil. It gave me several things to consider for this weekend.
    So yesterday, I figured I'd start small. I'll change the Air filter. I ordered the part, factory air filter. And as I took the cover off to find that Seeds and Nuts are stored in there. Not too many, but enough for me to throw a fit on the spot. I see where the intake for the car is and I'm sure I could get some metal screen material and wrap it but I don't want to do it. I'm at 35k and I have owned the car 1 year and 4 months. Has anyone else run into this problem? I'd hate to have to restrict the air flow, but I can't have this crap in my engine. This is my daily driver (and my only driver) and I can't change the intake until my warrenty is fully amortized. (it runs out at 100k.) :cry:
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Thanks for the Comments about the Oil. It gave me several things to consider for this weekend.
    So yesterday, I figured I'd start small. I'll change the Air filter. I ordered the part, factory air filter. And as I took the cover off to find that Seeds and Nuts are stored in there. Not too many, but enough for me to throw a fit on the spot. I see where the intake for the car is and I'm sure I could get some metal screen material and wrap it but I don't want to do it. I'm at 35k and I have owned the car 1 year and 4 months. Has anyone else run into this problem? I'd hate to have to restrict the air flow, but I can't have this crap in my engine. This is my daily driver (and my only driver) and I can't change the intake until my warrenty is fully amortized. (it runs out at 100k.)

    The filter is doing its job, none of this "crap" is getting into your engine, I woldn't worry too much about it. Don't forget to replace the cabin filters as well, you may find some seeds and nuts in there too.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    Si's at all late last winter. The only sell about 10 per dealer per year so there's a good chance that many dealerships haven't had to replace any racks or much other work at all for that matter. But anyway. There is a forum with only EP hatch owners and the rack is a is a pretty unpopular topic there. It has happened to stock and lowered hatches. Honda just refuses to fix the lowered ones.

    It hasn't happened to my car either but I don't doubt it exists. There is a TSB for it though so I hear.
This discussion has been closed.

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