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Toyota Sequoia Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    Yes, it sounds quite loud and grinding. Also, there is a figure of a car with squigly lines behind it on the dash that lights up momemtarily. It all happens rather quick and you might not of noticed.
  • drogers3drogers3 Member Posts: 2
    lesr2 posted a message concerning the loud static pop from the radio speakers that occurs periodically when turning off the ignition with the radio on. We have the same problem with our 2001 Sequoia Limited. I've mentioned it to the dealer, but it occurs so infrequently (maybe average of once every 80 times we turn the vehicle off). Has anyone had this problem diagnosed correctly? We have not had any work done for this, just noted on file.
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    There is a TSB specifically for this problem!!

    TSB # AU001-02
    Title: JBL AMPLIFIER IMPROVEMENTS
    Models:'01 - '02 Sequoia
    February 8, 2002
    Introduction

    New JBL amplifiers have been designed for the 2001 and 2002 model year Sequoia to address the following concerns:

    Intermittent pop noise from the audio system when cycling the ignition key. Excessive bass even with bass controls set to "-5." Insufficient amount of sound from rear speakers.

    Applicable Vehicles

    2001 - 2002 model year Sequoia vehicles built before the VINs listed below.
    Sequoia Front Amplifier - 5TD#####2S067029
    Sequoia Rear Amplifier - 5TD#####2S077332
  • croy4croy4 Member Posts: 14
    My sequoia SR5 has the programmable homelink remote buttons, but I can't seem to get it to operate my Genie Door Opener with the rolling code feature. I've followed the instructions in the manual, but no luck.

    Also, does anyone else have the retractable rear cargo cover? It works great, but it seems nearly impossible to remove without scratching the surrounding plastic. I can't find any mention of this device in the owners manual. Any ideas?
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    Mine did the same thing at first. My error was that I didn't erase it first.

    1. To Erase.

    http://www.homelink.com/program/first.html

    2. Program the Garage Door Opener.

    http://www.homelink.com/program/gdo.html

    then:

    http://www.homelink.com/program/rolling.html
  • chineechinee Member Posts: 50
    I've always found your posts to be informative, just as the one about the TSB's. However, I tried to find these on the NHTSA site but couldn't. Can you tell me where you got this info?

    I have the bass problem in my '02 that I purchased 4 weeks ago, and before I approach the dealer I'd like to be as informed as possible. And if need be, as a last resort, provide the dealer with the TSB.

    Your assistance will be much appreciated.

    Thanks in advance, I hope.
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    Due to Edmunds policies that prohibit mentioning a competitors website, I cannot tell you where I received the information on the TSBs. I can tell you that the NHTSA and other websites that list TSBs are WAY out of date usually. The TSB that I list is VERY real(do you think I made it up! :^)) and I can send you more information if you send me an email. Click on my raddboy41 id in any of my messages and it will reveal my personal email address. I look forward to hearing from you.
  • mtnimagermtnimager Member Posts: 2
    My 2002 with 18,000 has made a very unpleasant metalic grinding noise which seems to originate from the front drivers side region and which occurs commonly ( every morning as I drive up the single lane gravel road on which I live ).Additionally, I recently lost a tire and since replaced have had the skid control cutting power, especially on winding roads(like the ones I drive every day). Are these common problems?
  • paulinewpaulinew Member Posts: 1
    Have had my '03 SR5 for less than 10 days. The right halogen headlamp exploded Friday night. Lots of glass and dust in the assembly. The dealership replaced the bulb and ordered a new assembly as you can't clean it up. Now last night the left one exploded. Same scenerio. Anybody with this experience? They put me in a rental and will have both assemblies tomorrow. Not very good advertisement for Toyota.
    Any thoughts about what I should ask of them? I asked that the electrical be checked.
  • mgabatomgabato Member Posts: 1
    what does it take to get a dealer to address
    the tsbs? fortunately, it has been 25k miles without a problem but i want the a/c fixed just in case and the stereo problem corrected before the factory warranty expires.

    i printed the tsbs showed, them to the service mgr and they just keep ignoring it.
  • wahooswahoos Member Posts: 2
    Have a 2002 Limited. When I start driving in the morning, I hear a rubbing sound about every second coming from what sounds like the front left wheel. It really does not get much faster as you get up to higher speeds. It is not fast like something is stuck in the tire. I had the dealer check it once and they changed the weight of the differential fluid which did not remedy the problem.

    I have seen some discussions with rotar problems and did not know if this was related.
  • stopmakingsensstopmakingsens Member Posts: 3
    2001 limited, 45k miles

    I had the "Static Pop in Radio when shutting off ignition"
    problem too. I finally got the dealer to hear it and
    replace the radio, which fixed it.
    BUT THE NEW RADIO SOUNDS VERY MUDDY!!! and now I know
    what the others were talking about. The original
    radio sounded much better and I wish I could have it back.

    I have 45k miles, original brakes and tires.
    However I am, and drive like, an old man.

    Other stuff: the flexible handle on the lift gate
    keeps breaking off.

    Change oil often!!! 2 cars that need the oil
    changed a lot are the Sequoia and the miata, and
    I have both...
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    Unfortunately, the loud "POP" in the radio is NOT the radio itself but has to do with the JBL amps. There is a Technical Service Bulletin to fix this:

    TSB # AU001-02
    Title: JBL AMPLIFIER IMPROVEMENTS
    Models:'01 - '02 Sequoia
    February 8, 2002
    Introduction

    New JBL amplifiers have been designed for the 2001 and 2002 model year Sequoia to address the following concerns:

    Intermittent pop noise from the audio system when cycling the ignition key. Excessive bass even with bass controls set to "-5." Insufficient amount of sound from rear speakers.

    Applicable Vehicles

    2001 - 2002 model year Sequoia vehicles built before the VINs listed below.
    Sequoia Front Amplifier - 5TD#####2S067029
    Sequoia Rear Amplifier - 5TD#####2S077332
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    You're the first person I've heard who had the flexible pull-down handle break on their tailgate! You're also a rarity in that your original brakes have lasted 44K miles. This just goes to show how much driving habits affect these wear items.

    One other thing.....the Sequoia needs an oil change NO MORE OFTEN then any other vehicle! 5000-7500 miles using Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic and a Purolator Pure 1 filter(PL10241) should keep it happy for years and miles to come.
  • ekunstekunst Member Posts: 21
    anyone experience a problem with changing the lock mode on a sequoia??
    according to the owner manual, there are 4 lock/unlock modes that are changeble by simply following the directions in the manual. i have tried several times but cant make mine change out of mode 1. any suggestions?????????
  • kupuakupua Member Posts: 31
    stopmakingsens, strange... but on the 2003's Toyota changed the handle from a plastic to a nylon webbing. If your's keeps breaking off, take it back to the dealer and have them replace it.
  • gkatz1gkatz1 Member Posts: 296
    Try locking the doors prior to starting the sequence.
  • ekunstekunst Member Posts: 21
    tried it..no luck

    thanks
  • chiefmanchiefman Member Posts: 4
    Own a '02 Sequoia SR5. Around 14000 miles I started to hear a loud metallic grinding/thumping sound coming from the rear of the vehicle. The noise was so loud, pedestrians would look toward my vehicle with that "What the heck?!" look. It occurred periodically and would go away after running the vehicle. The grinding would vibrate the floor boards/seats, etc. Appointment made and dealer advised me the rear rotors were warped. Question is, How? Emergency brake? Dealer cut the rotors and emergency brake shoes. Then reused the same old brake pads. (All under my protest, of course) We'll see if that fixes the problem or a Lemon Law filing is the next step. Also have had engine ticking, brake fade, and exhaust smell - All which dealer says is normal. Oh what a feeling!
  • chineechinee Member Posts: 50
    I was frustrated with this for several days and couldn't get it to work. Then one day after getting home, I shifted to park and switched off the engine, and quite by accident I held down the door lock switch for a few seconds (can't remember which direction), and the door locks gave the "set" signal, locking then immediately unlocking (or vice versa). I think I set mode 3.

    Try locking the doors, starting, switch into gear, back into park, switch the engine off (leave in "on" position though) then follow the manual's instructions immediately.

    Good luck.
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    I noticed if you are doing one of the modes which require the gear to be in Park, you have to shift it into Park. here are the steps I took for Mode 4:
    1. Key in ignition
    2. Lock the car
    3. Shift into Neutral
    4. Turn ignition to 'on'
    5. Shift into Park
    6. Hold the door lock button down in the 'unlock' position for 5 seconds

    ...at which point the door locks and then unlocks...

    A few other notes.

    Start with the doors locked and when you depress the lock button, hold it down in the appropriate position for as close to 5 seconds as possible and then release it quickly. You will then get the obligatory "lock-unlock" and the option is set. I was able to program all options and deprogram them with no problem. Other then those items, the owners manual is correct.
  • minuteman26minuteman26 Member Posts: 70
    Please check my profile and send me your source for TSBs....inquiring minds want to know....

    Thanks!
  • fennfenn Member Posts: 197
    Has anybody had and problems with hissing and/or background noise when playing CDs. We have a 2003 Limited with the 6 disc changer......We are trying to ascertain whether this is typical or abnormal.

    One other observation: The clock display is very low and hard to see on our 2003 Limited. Has anybody else noticed this strange placement?
  • arcticmanarcticman Member Posts: 26
    Raddboy, I'm also trying to find accurate info on TSB's. I would like to know your source. If you get a chance my address is on file. Thanks
  • ekunstekunst Member Posts: 21
    you a correct. i submitted the question to the toyota website. thier directions noted the 5 second hold and release to activate the new lock modes. the owner manual is not specific enough. having owned several toyotas and factory manuals i can vouch that they are written poorly and miss some info and topics all together. i guess you dont always get your moneys worth with a toyota.
  • trustgodtrustgod Member Posts: 4
    2002 purchased 9/02..Since purchase vibration and sometimes clicking sound from headliner/moonroof area. Dealer has been verify active in trying to find problem. They have tried tightening, etc.., but no luck. They have ordered new headliner. What exactly is the procedure to replace the headliner. I am concerned about having this replaced. In other words, does a dealer mechanic have the training to replace this item correctly vs. the procedure used during manufacturing. I do not want to have new problems or noises.
  • jraiderjraider Member Posts: 25
    DonFenn....I too think that the clock placement is extremely low on my 2003 SR5. I thought it was just me and that I had to get used to it. I feel like I'm taking my eyes off the road to look at it.
  • slcamtslcamt Member Posts: 37
    I have the same click. I don't want anyone climbing around in my truck for that noise. I am afraid I would end up with more problems. I have the sunroof also. I have tried lubricating the track but it didn't work. Please keep me informed. Temperature seems to affect loudness.
  • kupuakupua Member Posts: 31
    Do you guys all have a sunroof? It may need some adjustment as I may not be correctly set. they need to adjust the cables. Mine was that way and you could see that on the exterior, that the SR was just slightly down. You could push it up or down and the sound would go away for a little, but would come back. I've taken it to the dealer and the problem has been fixed.
  • espinaldoespinaldo Member Posts: 24
    I have an issue that I have not yet seen on this board. This deals with a low "thunk" noise--The dealer did one fix but it is back 9 months later.

    When driving at a constant moderate speed with very little or no pressure on the gas pedal--floating--and slight pressure is added/increased on the pedal, there is a thunk that sounds like it comes from a drive shaft. I described this to the dealer last March and the service department looked at it and found that there were burrs or rough spots on (and now comes the part where I get fuzzy) a drive line or other line that is connected to or a pert of the transmission. Apparently there was slippage where the line was connected to a sleeve. The service department removed the excess metal and the noise was gone.

    I rarely drive the car, but I did today and I noticed that the thunk is back. It appears that the service department repaired the symptom rather than the cause of the problem.

    Does anyone have any ideas?
  • ekunstekunst Member Posts: 21
    anyone research adding heated seats to the sr5. the plug connectors for the swithes and the seat heater elements appear to be in place, although i am not sure if the elements are there. i am thinking 2 switches, a fuse, a relay, plugin the harness connectors and walla..heated seats..or maybe not..
  • gkatz1gkatz1 Member Posts: 296
    I was wondering the same thing.
  • slcamtslcamt Member Posts: 37
    Thanks kupua. I will check that out tonight. the heated seat thing would be pretty easy if the harnesses are installed. Car manufactures usually put the same harness in all there vehicles to save on confusion at the assy. line. I bet if you found a wrecked Sequoia you could rob the parts needed and just plug them in. Good luck
  • chiefmanchiefman Member Posts: 4
    Since my previous post, the brake saga has continued. 6 days after Toyota ground our rotors, the problems returned, but sincle the problem was only intermittent, Toyota didn't want to see the vehicle unless it was actually making the grinding brake sound. To make matters worse, the left rear wheel actually locked up and would not turn unless the vehicle was in 4 wheel drive. Toyota says there is nothing wrong. If you are concerned with the safety of your vehicle due to brake problems, you may want to go to http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/hotline/ and file a safety complaint as we have. It looks like this is the only way the brake problems will get any attention from Toyota.
  • tgtoytgtoy Member Posts: 2
    The cargo area of my SEQ is constantly wet and I'm absolutely certain that my windows are shut when it's raining. Has anyone ever experinced this before. I suspect the sunroof drainage system is leaking into the cargo area. I'm bringing it back to the dealer next week for them to inspect.
  • slcamtslcamt Member Posts: 37
    kupua and trustgod My sun roof is loose. If you push up on the back of the glass it quits clicking. I will have Toyota look at it soon. Thanks for the info.
  • avcii2avcii2 Member Posts: 13
    Chiefman...I have a Honda Pilot that had the exact same problems you describe. A grinding sound while disembarking from a stopped position and left rear wheel locking. Do you use your emergency brake? Honda service discovered the emergency brake was not fully disengaging when I released it and each time I hit the brakes to stop, the emergency brake would expand further. Have the service dept check the emergency brake and whether or not it is fully disengaging when you release it from use. Honda did try everything else such as removing rust from my wheel well, changing the pads, loosening the drums, until the wheel locked on me. That's when they discovered the emergency brake problem. That was three months ago and all is well.
  • dtremblaydtremblay Member Posts: 8
    raddboy41 - Please send me an email on how to find accurate TSB listing. Thank you.
  • boatskipboatskip Member Posts: 1
    Our 2002 Sequoia has had a problem with front tires cupping. After rebalancing, a new alignment, and moving front tires to the back, we are encountering the same problem with the tires now on the front. Anyone else with the same problem? Vehicle has approx. 22,000 miles. This set of tires only has 4,000 miles on them. It is the same tire that comes on the vehicle when new.
  • xman1035xman1035 Member Posts: 52
    Cupping is a condition caused by the tire bouncing as it rolls. Small areas of heavy wear are created. Worn shocks are often the cause of cupping, but loose suspension parts or tire imbalance are also possible causes. Did you have your shocks checked? Suspension checked? Rims checked? What brand and series of tire do you have on your Sequoia?
  • kupuakupua Member Posts: 31
    Slcamt, Glad to have helped. By now I would imagine that your prob is fixed.


    Does anyone have info on what it best or easiest as far as tire chains or cables? Anybody have another solution out there?

  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    First, what are you planning on using them for? And I would assume you're looking to use them on a Sienna? An easier solution may be studded snow tires. You won't have to worry about clearance in the wheel well and the difficulty with putting them on and taking them off. Hope this helps.

    Ken
  • verolitverolit Member Posts: 6
    WHEN YOU GUN THE ACCELERATOR WHILE THE TRUCK IS IN MUD OR SNOW, THE SLIP INDICATOR LIGHT STARTS FLASHING AND LOUD GRINDING NOISES COME FROM THE HOOD. THIS HAPPENSWHETHER ITS IN 2WD OR 4WD MODE. THIS IS WHETHER I HAVE THE VSC SWITCH ON OR OFF. IF ANYONE OUT THERE HAS THE SAME PROBLEM PLS SHARE YOUR INFO W/ ME
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    First, you should learn to turn your Caps lock off. On forums such as this, it represents that you're "shouting".

    Secondly, the grinding noise you're hearing is probably the TRAC system. The TRAC system still works even if the VSC system is disengaged. What this system does is to limit wheelspin. The way this does it is to apply the individual brake to the wheel that is spinning and if necessary, reduce throttle. The system uses the ABS sensors to detect wheel spin. The noises that you hear are probably the actuators applying the brakes and the throttle reduction. The control unit is under the hood, so that is probably why you're hearing the sounds from there.

    Hope this helps.

    Ken

    P.S. You probably hear this more often when in 2wd, correct? The reason that I say this is that it is much more likely that you will have loss of traction while accelerating in 2wd mode.
  • verolitverolit Member Posts: 6
    first let me thank ken for his prompt response to my query. sorry bout the caps lock i didnt realize they were on. i just find it hard to accept that a great vehicle like the sequoia makes primitive noises like this. what you saying is that we have to live w/ nuisance? ive looked at other messages on this forum and read about how other sequoia owners play in the snow and mud. how do they live w/ the grinding noises?
    let me know if others out have the same distaste for this.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    Actually, there is a reason for the noises being audible. First is the mechanical systems working. But the more important reason is to let you know that you're on a surface that is causing you to lose traction and that you should be careful. Similar to when you hear the ABS making noises and kicking back through the brake pedal when it activates to let you know that you're sliding and/or at least at the edge of the traction level for braking.

    Hope this helps.

    Ken
  • h20vet1h20vet1 Member Posts: 2
    I'm not sure I completely agree with Ken on this issue since I hardly think a grinding noise coming from under the hood is a suitable signal that things are working properly or a "warning" that wheels are slipping. I first noticed the identical problem in November 2002 on my new Sequoia, but to add to the issue I noticed that when I intentionally spun the wheels several times to generate the noise in order to show the dealer I noticed that the braking system malfunctioned the very next time I applied the brakes. This happens only once and seems to "reset" once the brakes have been applied. However, it begins again once the wheels have spun a couple of times. When I reproduced the noise for my local service manager he agreed that there was some sort of problem where upon he tested 3 new Sequoias on the lot and found the same thing. At that point he took the stance that there " must not be anything wrong". I believe this is a design error and Toyota will not address it until enough people bring it to their attention.
  • gkatz1gkatz1 Member Posts: 296
    The grinding noises are from the ABS system when traction is lost. It's that simple.
  • gkatz1gkatz1 Member Posts: 296
    I know alot of us bought the Sequoia because it represents a higher quality package as compared to the domestic offerings. But, as a member of a few forums I think we expect that it will be perfect. If you visit other forums you will see that, for the most part, problems with the Sequoia are small compared to other makes. Sometimes I think we come off as nit picky cry babies.
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    I am only a lurker here. I was looking at the Sequoia and simply couldn't justify the $4000+ more it would have cost me to purchase over the 03 Expedition that I did buy. I am sure it will hold it's value better than the Ford, but other cost of ownership factors, such as insurance, drove the final nail in the coffin. If I had spent the extra $4K, plus $3500 more to insure over my anticipated 7 years of ownership, I sure as heck would have held it to a higher standard. That's why you're paying the premium, in my opinion. You ought to be getting that higher quality for that kind of money.
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