Toyota Sequoia Maintenance and Repair

ronbarr76063 · March 2008

We are on our second sequoia. both had the same problem. short story, it's your transmission.
ours started with the lurch at stop lights etc. we also were told it was our air conditioner! the problem continued to get worse. it proceeded to a roaring when we were about 65mph, and the transmission started slipping then slamming into gear.

we had to have to the transmission replaced in the first one. when the same problem started to happen on the second sequoia, we took it to freeman toyota in hurst, tx. the service manager knew exactly what it was. i cannot remember the part, but they replaced ours and we have been fine since.

good luck!

harbo · March 2008

Could you check your work order for the transmission part that was replaced.

THX ........ Harbo slvrfx@cox.net

vmallari · March 2008

possible speed sensor.

pedal2dmetal · March 2008

Check your shocks first by going to each corner of the vehicle and pushing the corner down. A rebound should only happen once..., anything more means you will to replace both sides. If one front is bad, both fronts will need replacement. After replacement, then get the alignment. I suggest Bilstein shocks. Regarding your springs, should last the life of the vehicle unless abused. If you notice one side is lower or obviously lower, yes, it might be time to replace the springs. Since you are replacing the shocks, check and see if the strut towers will need replacement due to the miles you have driven.

calhounc · March 2008

Thanks for your reply! I had been struggling with the same problem of my 2005 Sequoia rear window, defroster, and wiper that just quit working. I went out and slammed the door a few times, then ran my hand along the inside and outside of the bottom window seam, and tried to push the window up, then magically they all started working again! I think it was all because the window was stuck.

sb55 · March 2008

I have read on this forum about tailgate latch handles breaking. Last week, I was going on a trip and had a very hard time opening the latch. I thought "Oh s**t", my time had come for it to break just before a trip.
I decided to spray the catch in the tailgate and bumper with some lithium grease.
This solved the latch problem immediately.
Maybe this simple fix will solve some other people's problems.

harrisfam4 · March 2008

I know you probably have answers by now but I had the same problem on my '03 and took it in to my dealer and they filled the brake fluid over the max line. No problems after that.

Kirstie_H · March 2008

A reporter hopes to speak with current owners of large SUVs who are trying to sell their vehicle and their experience. If you are a consumer with a large SUV that just sold or looking to sell, please respond to ctalati@edmunds.com with your daytime contact information no later than Monday, March 24, 2008.

rdog1 · April 2008

Hope someone can help...

Rear door handle broke and I bought the part and replaced it myself....the handle was highway robbery at $90. Door worked fine for about half a day but now it won't open and I don't think its the handle.

It almost seems like the rear door is stuck in the "locked" position because you don't hear it unlock when you unlock the rest of the doors.

So, does anyone have any experience removing that housing that the latch itself (and obviously the locking mechanism) is in? I can't for the life of me figure out how to open it up and see if the cable has just come loose from there.

When replacing the handle I did do some tugging on the cable so I could get the door open and work on it that way instead of all cramped up inside the car but now it appears I am stuck doing that because I can't get the door open at all. Any ideas or advice would be appreciated but I don't want to take to the dealer unless I absolutely have to.

Thanks.

harbo · April 2008

I have had the same experience on my Sequoia. It appears the electical contacts on the mechanism can be cleaned (or) in one situation I simply tapped (hit) the solenoid with a hammer and it went back to work. The biggest job is getting at the stuff inside the door, similiar to what you did when you pulled on the cable.

Have fun ....... <(-;

bross1 · April 2008

My keyless entry (both) and rear window will not work. I've changed batteries in both remotes and verifyied that the fuse was not blown. Any advice?

sb55 · April 2008

Did you confirm that the rear window is ALL the way up. I know that mine was down maybe 1/8" and the rear wiper and defogger wouldn't work. It's possible that it's the same thing. Put it all the way down, then back up and maybe the contacts will.....contact?

dlhood · April 2008

I brought my Sequoia to the dealer because nothing in the back worked: no defroster, wiper, wetter, window, nothing. The Service person asked me if I made sure that the window was up all the way because sometimes that makes a difference - I thought she was crazy. I had her check the fuses, but the fuses were fine. Then I came to this website and read about the window possibly not being up all the way. My husband and I played with the window a bit, not thinking that it would make a difference...EVERYTHING WORKS NOW. WHO WOULD EVER HAVE BELIEVED IT!!! Thank you for your advice

What a nice change - a cheap fix (free actually).

koolooks · April 2008

I just found this wed site looks great. I have a 2003 with 90,000 miles bought new in 2003. Best auto I have ever owned. One problem rear window hasn't worked in about 4 years. I have read if I force the back window up it might start working again, is that correct?

sb55 · April 2008

Great to hear you had success. Forums can help..... , often save a trip to the dealer and $$.

tfultz3 · April 2008

Hi All,

I have read the links on this subject, Thanks for the info! When my latch finally broke, I was able to swap it out myself minus $71 for the latch. I got it in and it worked until I locked it and it would not re-open. It seemed that the power lock was not activating. I was concerned that I would not be able to open the door since the cable pull will not work while the door was locked.

Back into the the door a second time. I was finally able to locate a lose connection on the black exterior panel which seems to be a termination point for the harness.

I was then able to lock and unlock the door with no problems. I must of done it 20 times to make sure it worked.

later that day, we made a trip to Home Depot to get a lawn mower and when I got to the latch, it was not working. Arrrghhh. I can hear the power lock activating, but the door will still not open. Now I am really worried that I might not be able to get the door opened with removing the latch itself.

I am planning on re-entering the car this weekend and clean all the contact points and perhaps using tie wraps to make them tight. I am hoping that they got loose due to the drive.

Is this just due to wiring contacts, or am I missing something? Could the rear lock be in a different mode? Is it the latch itself?

Any advice would be appreciated....

Thanks
tfultz3

rdog1 · April 2008

Tfultz,

I was the one who brought this question up a few weeks ago and I made the following discovery.

The problem was not with my locking mechanism. The problem was that somehow, the cable was applying enough pressure to the locking mechanism that it was acting similarly to when you try and unlock a door while someone is pulling on the handle...the lock stays engaged. As soon as I disconnected the cable from the handle, the door unlocked and I was able to open it.

However, the only solution I came up with was to get some pliers and bend the notch where the cable hooks into the handle lever so as to shorten the distance the cable had to stretch to make the connection and take some of the tension out of the cable. Mine works perfectly now. Good luck.

sdefrank · April 2008

Our 2005 Sequoia's tail gate assist struts have both failed. Toyota wants nearly $200 each (x 2) just for the replacement parts. That seems extremely high. However, I realize it is a heavy unit and a safety concern, because it is difficult to lift and will slam down on anyone underneath the gate if they are not careful. Any experience with good after market units that are more reasonable? Most aftermarket units are between $50 and $100 for cars and light trucks. $200 each is just a shocker. Thanks for your input.

hdfatboy · April 2008

"Our 2005 Sequoia's tail gate assist struts have both failed. Toyota wants nearly $200 each (x 2) just for the replacement parts. That seems extremely high. However, I realize it is a heavy unit and a safety concern, because it is difficult to lift and will slam down on anyone underneath the gate if they are not careful. Any experience with good after market units that are more reasonable? Most aftermarket units are between $50 and $100 for cars and light trucks. $200 each is just a shocker. Thanks for your input."

I would have thought that a 2005 sequoia would still be under warranty or only slightly out of warranty. I can't imagine that the rear hatch struts would have both failed and Toyota isn't covering them, certainly if they are "in warranty" and they should be covered if they're only slightly out of warranty since they didn't just fail at the same time yesterday. Am I missing something?

sdefrank · April 2008

Nope, you're not missing anything in this story. Unfortunately, we are just out of warranty by a little over 1100 miles, and our Town Center Toyota dealer in Marietta, Georgia made that quite clear when we called about the problem. I agree with you, the failure probably was progressing for some time, with the left strut compensating for a period of time. Unfortunately, there were no symptoms until the system failed completely.

hdfatboy · April 2008

I might try another dealer pointing out that the struts have been failing for some time. I would also get the Toyota Regional office involved. Hatch struts failing in 3 years is unacceptable and I really can't believe Toyota isn't going to back the replacement of these struts given the situation and timing you shared.

alimin · April 2008

I have an '05 SR5 (72K miles) and took it to the dealer yesterday after the service engine and vsc/trac lights went on. They read the code and determined the charcoal canister needed replacement - to the tune of close to $500. After searching the forum , I found that the canister can be damaged over time by simply over-filling the gas tank (confirmed by the dealer). I don't recall "over filling" that much - if anything I might have pumped a bit more into the tank just prior to a long trip - and wonder if anyone else has had the issue and how Toyota dealt with it. Thanks.

raytma · April 2008

I have the same problem with my 2005 Sequoia. How do you move the window up? :confuse:

gobucs1 · April 2008

Just purchased an 02 Sequoia. Not sure how the immobiliser works. Now engine will not start. Windows will not work. Believe somehow immobiliser is probably engaged, and will not allow engine to start. Any suggestions?

jgremillion · May 2008

My 2002 rear hatch door handle is just hanging there. Please help me. I really do not have the money to take to a dealer, is this something I can do on my own.
Thank you for any help on this.
jgremillion

fredypalma · May 2008

hi there, i would like to know whatever happened to your claim on 03 sequioa? i having pretty much the same problem with mine, plse let me know. thanks

katdog · May 2008

OMG! this actually worked!!! Thank you, we've tried everything to push the window up or down. We could not get it to work. Your 1,2,3 slam method worked perfectly!!!!

You saved us $$$$$$$ for GAS!

cat21 · June 2008

Heaven if you haven't fixed your handle yet.I would strongly recommend you pay someone else, unless you have alot of time on your hand.The handle only cost around 60.00 from the dealer,but it took my husband and I about 3 or 4 hours to install.

cat21 · June 2008

My 2002 Toyota Sequia's Vsc track system failed today and it was a beautiful sunny day. I was coming home when my Vsc track lights came on and my right front tire started grinding and trying to pull me to the right. I pulled into the turn lane and turned my vehicle off and back on, and the lights went off until I started driving again. I engaged slowly trying to get home because I was only a few miles away and it was almost 100 degrees outside. I made it home,but haven't taken my car to a shop yet I thought I would find out a little more about this before I put my suv in the shop. Any advice or tips

harbo · June 2008

Is this a 4WD? It sounds like the outer "U" joint failed (or) likely a wheel bearing or brake failure at that wheel. Did the brakes work. Was the grinding steady (wheel bearing) or cyclical ( the "U" joint).
Please Post your outcome ..... I'm curious. I have 105K on my 2WD Sequoia, so far bullet-proof.

cat21 · June 2008

I took my car to the dealer, at first he thought it was just dirt in my sensors. When he cleaned my sensors and checked the code on the computer again, he got a vsc sensor problem. My brakes never failed, but the vsc which stands for (vehicle stability control) was making my car pull hard right and trying to take me off the road. I borrowed the dealers loaner car which was a brand new 2008 Toyota Camry with only 3000 miles. Sweeeeet! Very pretty car, but the stereo sucked! One of the front speakers had already burst. Now getting back to my suv, the total price out the door with an oil change an incredible $640.00. Problem solved, love my car again!

harbo · June 2008

What did they repair ? To fix the pull and grinding ?

cat21 · June 2008

My family and I will be going to Tennessee this summer. We'll be leaving June 27th and returning on the 4th. We will be staying in a nice three story cabin and enjoying Dollywood theme Park, mostly the water park. I guess we'll see Gatlinburg and let the kids see the water falls. Hopefully there will be a fireworks show at Dollywood before we leave. This is why the vsc had to work properly!

harbo · June 2008

What did they do to repair the vsc ? Thx .

cat21 · June 2008

When I took my suv to the dealer, they replaced the vehicle stability control sensor.This was done on 06/17/08. I thought the problem was solved until yesterday on another beautiful sunny day on my way home on dry pavement traveling around 35mph. The system decided that I was sliding, and decided to try to take me off the road once more. This system controls your steering, brakes,and the engine speed. This is a very dangerous system, I would not recommend anyone to buy a car that has the ability to take control of the car for you! I really thought this was a safe car when I purchased it used, October of 2006. I did not know that it was going to try to kill me.To get a better understanding of this system, it is called electronic stability control. This system works with your abs system also. It was designed to help you when your car is sliding or skidding. One side of your brakes grab while the other brakes get more power. When the system fails,this also happens and tries to pull your vehicle off the road! Our vacation is scheduled for this Friday I'm taking my car back to the dealer today.

harbo · June 2008

Thanks for the update. We leave for Colorado next tuesday in our Sequoia. Please keep me informed of the outcome with the dealer and of course the VSC.
THX /........

rtribble · June 2008

Our Sequoia just turned 5,000 miles and the drivers side widow has started a loud squeaking noise when you raise or lower it.
Are we supposed to lubricate the windows somehow? Never ever had this problem before and seems a little strange for such a new vehicle to be doing this.
Any ideas?

kineo · July 2008

I found you all after the rear tailgate latch snapped on my '01 Sequoia. Why does the dealer Lynch Toyota Manchester, CT pretend they have never heard of this problem??? Bought my Sequoia 12/31/07 with 103K miles and now have almost 118K. LOVE everything about it except the e-brake but that's another ?.
Anyway does anyone have any advice about "dealing" with the dealership and this "unknown problem". Also I have now read most of this forum and why doesn't Toyota recall this?

vmallari · July 2008

Toyota warranty coverage are usually 36000 miles or with in 3 years from date of purchase, which ever comes first. That should be covered since it only had 5000 miles.

vmallari · July 2008

This is one good example of normal wear and tear (118K) , but if your latch got out easily, it should be easily returned.

dgut · July 2008

I know for a fact that Lynch Toyota has heard of the rear latch breaking because I bought a 2001 Sequoia from them (brand new) and they had to repair the back latch twice. We had many problems with this vehicle, including the dealer not tightening the lug nuts completely after a routine service resulting in one of the wheel studs breaking and us almost crashing, a huge problem with VSC system which also almost resulted in a crash on an interstate at 70 mph. When the VSC system malfunctions, it takes control of the vehicle's steering and bracking systems. When you are going 70 mph on an interstate and that happens, it is nothing less then terrifying. After the VSC incident, I drove it to Lynch Toyota (VSC system activated for no reason again)! I drove into the service bay and when I was asked weather I was waiting or picking up later, I said, "neither, I am leaving it here and I don't want it back! You are keeping it!" I would never feel safe or trust this car again. Neither Toyota or Lynch seemed to know anything about this issue with the Sequoias. As you might have read in this forum, it is a problem many sequoia owners have reported. Toyota refused to repair the vehicle or acknowledge this was a safety concern. The dealer did take the sequoia in trade and gave us a decent deal on another one. We now own a 2006 sequoia and have not had any problems with it. I hope you did not end up with my old one. Ours was a black 2001 SR5 with just over 100,000 miles on it.

lss9022 · July 2008

One month of ownership and in repair 3x's. My car has 48k and I have had the latch on the back door replaced (they wanted to charge me a deductible). The laminate is coming off the dash (they want to go in half for the repair), driver outside mirror loose and told it needs replaced ($450.00) -not covered under the warranty and my main concern is the brakes - grinding like metal to metal when stopping and when released, the petal makes a pop noise (I was told the pop was normal and they are keeping it for 2-3 days to try and figure out the grinding since they said it has new pads and rotors. I drove another 05 on the lot and could not replicate the pop noise from the petal - anyone with the same problem or had this resolved? There are other issues which they are to fix (e.g., sunroof rattles and signs of rust around the back wheel wells) but not sure how much they are going to want to charge for these as yet. Love my vehicle but just want the items fixed at no charge since I haven't even made the first payment. Does anyone know if I have any rights here as well?

liameen · August 2008

Our 2001 Sequoia Limited has been cutting out dangerously. The Acc. pedal must be pressed much further to get a response. The check engine/VSC light is on and the car is not safe to drive. My local mechanic got a code P0505 on his diagnostic. He has replaced a few different parts including the throttle control sensor with no luck. My wife said that the check engine/VSC light came on after the back wheels spun on a turn.I got ripped off(big time) by the dealer before and I dont want to go back for another ripping off. Any ideas?

northerner1 · August 2008

I have an '02 Sequoia and had also experienced the intermittent metallic grinding noise -- of concern not to mention embarassing. Would occur when I was slowing down, such as in parking lots, but then began to make noise even while driving around town. Dealer claimed that noise could not be replicated when they would check. I replaced the brakes, yet noise continued. Well, to shorten a long story, I took it to Firestone, they have a good mechanic over there, said I didn't want it back until it was figured out .... 5 hours and $61 later discovered that it was the parking brake. When the casing (?) was removed the brake itself literally fell into his hands in bits and powder. Don't know exact details but the parking brake was somehow engaging with the main brake while driving (no, the parking brake wasn't left "locked" on) Oh, and the $61 dollar bill was only for parts and perhaps an hour of labor, as the mechanic was sorry that he hadn't figured it out earlier.

I have also had the VSC light come on intermittently. The manual does say to take it immediately to the dealer. I have received two other bits of advice. First being, to make certain to replace gas lid tightly (several "clicks") after refueling. Secondly, that the sensor may have an "error" reading when it gets dirty. The light has gone off for me when I've used either/both bits of advice but I remain cautious particularly after reading some of the posts on this website.

toyotatoys · September 2008

I have an 01 Sequoia with 109K miles. Still hums and purrs like it did when I bought it seven years ago. I am aware that the owner's manual recommends changing the timing belts (and other parts associated with it) at around 90K. I wonder if my fellow oldtimers have replaced their timing belts already and share their experiences. Is this something that the dealer HAS to perform or any able mechanic can do? Any helpful tips will be appreciated.

tidester · September 2008

There are few posts in Highlander Timing Belt/Chain Question and Timing Belt Change (Sienna) that you might want to look at while you're waiting for a reply here.

tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper

liameen · September 2008

It was not a timing or timing belt issue. It has been finally resolved (yesterday) by replacing the throttle body assembly. BTW, are you sure the 2001 Seq, has timing belts? I was under the impression that they were chains.

liameen · September 2008

Do you have to go to the dealer to get a replacement key cut for a 2001 Limlted Sequoia? ( I have the codes from the original) Is there some kind of chip in the key itself that only the dealer has? If so how much? Any info?
Also is it possible to get a replacement cover or housing for the keyless entry remote without buying the electronic unit inside? Mine are broken where the keyring goes through, but are working perfectly. I asked at the dealers and they told me you must buy the complete remote and have it programmed at the dealer, which is close on $200 per remote. Does anyine know of any after market company where I could get a new cover for the remote? Thanks.

tee go · September 2008

I have a 2008 Sequoia Limited and found out yesterday that my front defroster doesn't really work on the passenger's side. When I looked at the vents on the top of the dash I realized that they stop about 4 inches from the end of the track and don't extend all the way to the passenger's side window. Is this normal? I can't imagine why that they wouldn't put vents all the way across the front window. Even my '04 Honda Pilot has them.
Someone please let me know if my vehicle has a defect or if this is normal.
Thanks!

toyo4 · September 2008

I am changing the antifreeze on my 2002 Sequoia. Should I use the Toyota brand of antifreeze or the Prestone Extended Life antifreeze? Thanks

Toyota Sequoia Maintenance and Repair

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