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Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems & Solutions
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I would like to thank whoever posted the contact "Eddie Goodwin at Biddolph Arrowhead Oldsmobile @ 623-933-3900" for latest information on this dimming problem. He was very knowledgable on this issue and didn't try to hurry me away even though I'm calling from a different state and not one of his customers. If all GM dealers had Service Managers like him we as customers would be a lot happier!
(FYI-My Intrigue is a 2002 model)
The problem with the dimming lights is only on the 3.5 liter engines which were used in the Intrigues. The culprit is the "Air Injection Pump" that kicks on to add more air to the fuel injection system. This pump pulls 45-60 watts of power which then causes the lights to dim. There is no current fix for this problem but he said the last he knew, GM was looking at re-writing the program so that the pump doesn't kick on all at once and cause the lights to dim. He also said there is nothing to worry to about in regards to the lights quit working all together. Changing the alternator wouldn't help because my 2002 would already have the newest version! I mentioned back to him that I have actually had the car in front of me at night (driving on the highway) wave back at me because he thought I was flashing my lights at him and that wasn't good and he agreed with me on that. With that happening by being accidently in a bad section of some town could possibly cause some bad things to happen. I know I'm be a little melow dramatic there but anything is possible in the world we live in today!
I hope that this answer or lack of an answer helps everyone with the dimming light problem!
I promptly got an e-mail response, which said, "We sincerely apologize for the Transmission Failure you are experiencing with your 1998 BUICK Intrigue (caps mine)."
No wonder there's a problem! I thought I was driving an Olds, and it's actually a Buick!
The local dealer, Paul Brothers Oldsmobile in Herndon, Virginia, ran some interference for me with the regional service manager, and the customer service person I spoke with at Oldsmobile was very pleasant. We ended up splitting the difference on the replacement transmission. While it still hurts to shell out nearly $1,400, I know I'm certainly not entitled to a new unit at no charge, since I used 48,000 miles worth of the old transmission. Plus, with the rest of the car in good shape, I'd rather pay that than be strapped with a $500 payment each month on a new car.
Paul Brothers had the car finised a day earlier than promised, and it now runs like a champ.
Overall, it was no fun, but I will say that the dealer and Olds customer service kept a bad situation from being much worse.
Anyway, the point I'm trying to make is a long one and I'm trying to keep it short. I'm still in the process of fighting this. I have gone through the steps in the back of the owners manual on how to resolve these problems. Here are a few things I've learned. The customer service people will drag you along until the time expires for you to get anything done about it through the steps in the book. Even if it means paying for the work after the warranty has just gone off. The more time you waste dealing with the customer service people (although they make you think they really care and are going to help you) the older your car gets and the more miles you run up on it. The BBB Auto line people can only help you while your car in still under warranty with GM, so if you are having problems with the steering shaft and its under warranty, start fighting this problem now, its not going to go away. The day after I called the BBB to file with them, I get a call from a customer service person (yes the same people I have been working with). Now I still haven't received the paperwork from the BBB, because its the very next day. Anyway, she informed me that its too late to file with the BBB, but that they are willing to give me a letter to carry in my glove box that I can get my steering shaft repaired free for 6yrs or 100,000 miles which ever comes first. So you people that are still under warranty, there's an option for you. I turned it down, because I'm not going to save that much money with that offer and I feel I have a good case against GM right now, with the first paper stating that it was a poor design. I'm not sure if I've covered everything that can help people out. Like I said its a long story and I'm still in the process of fighting GM on this, but I just wanted to let people know that if you are going to fight it, it should be easier for you while its still under warranty. Beware of the Customer service people, remember they work for GM, no matter how much they make you feel they are on your side.
The passenger side rear window, I've noticed, is more likely to stop working after a really heavy rain. It'll stop working for days, and then all of a sudden, start working again. The window motor was replaced at one point, due to "broken wiring", but I actually wonder if they replaced anything at all.
Mike
Has anyone else had similar problems which turned out to be the dreaded solenoid replacement in the tranny. What were your tranny symptoms.
I brought it to the dealer yesterday, and they could not find anything wrong. They said the transmission oil looked fine and it might be a fuel injector thing. I doubt it cause it has no problems accelerating normally, only when in the Overdrive gear at 50 mph.
Help, I may be trading this in real soon.
Sorry I didn't see your post sooner. I had the same problem with my 99 GLS 3.5 about a year ago at around 50-60K miles. Mine was mainly at low speeds, like turning into a parking space. It got progressively worse so that it felt like there was no power assist at all. Since I bought mine before Olds got its death sentence, my warranty was only good for 36K, and I didn't get an extended warranty.
After a visit or two where they said they couldn't duplicate the problem, they first replaced the intermediate shaft. No help with the main problem, but that strange clunking noise went away. Then they replaced the steering rack, with their reasoning being that the seals in the rack had deteriorated, which was causing a pressure drop. That worked for about 2 weeks, then the problem came back. They replaced the rack again, still had the problem. Finally they replaced the pump (and I think the pulley for it), and the problem was fixed. All in all, the car was in their hands for over 5 weeks total while this was all going on. I paid full price for the ISS (around $400 if I recall), and after hours on the phone with Olds, the dealer, and their district manager, I got the rack for 1/2 of the warranty price, so around $400 more.
It sounds like they're on the right track with yours. Make sure they follow through. You have plenty of miles left on your warranty, but they still like to drag their heels on these things. Mine got progressively worse, so eventually they won't even be able to deny it. The ride-along is a good idea, and once it gets bad enough, you'll be able to tell when their guy can't turn the wheel without two hands.
Good luck!
I unplugged my battery, and forgot about it for a few hours, hoping it would reset. When I reconnected the + terminal, the "trac control" light went out, apparently permanently. Now I can't get it to respond at all when I hit the button on the consol behind the shift lever. Usually I could turn the "trac control" button on and off and it would let me know if it was engaged with a light on the consol. Now I can't get that light to work at all. Also, the "Anti-Lock Brake" light is still on constantly. According to the manual, this may mean I don't have anti-lock brakes, though I haven't noticed a change in the way the car stops. I have checked all the fuses and they are fine. In addition, it’s been raining pretty steadily for the last couple of weeks. Could the damp weather be a culprit for this problem? I have not hit any unusually large mud puddles.
In addition to all this, since I unplugged the radio, there is an anti-theft lock that engaged on it, which works when the radio looses its battery connection. The radio will no longer work until I plug in a code that will disengage the lock. When I bought the car, they never told me about this feature, nor did they supply the override code. It is a big pain but it doesn't really worry me because the dealer I bought it from said they will fix it for me when I’m in town. I was just wondering if anyone could help because I now live in North Carolina, and I bought the car in New York. I hate the thought of my next long ride to New York without a radio.
However,my front Passenger Door has been sticking for several months now. Dealer fixed several weeks ago and now problem is back.
Door is hard to open from outside and harder from the inside.
Anyone had this problem and fixed it?
...as to the aformentioned door problem, i also had my door (pass. one) start to bind when opening. It required the door latch to be re-aligned, which I did myself, and so far, a year later it still works. Many cars develop some door sag as they pile on the miles, requiring some adjustment.
the Intrigue 2000 steering shaft. I am experiencing knocking noise during turns.
As of today 5 days later they finally said it was a bad Crank Sensor. They seem to think it's not a problem but after some research on my own I found out it could be very extensive. Let me say there are 40k miles on the car when I purchased it.
My question is do I have a reason to be concerned in the future for similar problems? I really like thew car as a whole and thought I got a good deal.
Any Ideas? Thanks !
I'll keep you all posted as to the outcome of this problem.
HAVE A GREAT DAY ALL !
I have found this interesting. Can you please keep us informed on this. I am still fighting my problem with the steering problem (see my post #108). Where did you hear the rumor from?
Tires: It is time to replace the "H" rated Eagle tires (16 ") Any suggestions?
You could try the fluid first, but considering how pervasive the intermediate shaft problem is, I'd bet that is the problem. There are links to the relevant TSB on the Intrigue main board.
I recently picked up a new 2002 Intrigue, as I know a number of people who have them and they have been trouble free for them.
Has anyone had any issue with water in the trunk? I am taking it back to the dealer next week, but I thought it would be beter if I am armed and ready. The water is actually in the trunk lid. When I open the lid, water comes rushing out. The only place I can see this coming from is the spoiler.
After reading this board, I am glad I got the 5y/60k GMPP warranty.
The problem came from the plastic screw inserts behind the licence plate.
If you look up under the inside of the trunk lid in behind the plate location you will see water tracks coming down from the insert holes that hold the plate.
My problem only happened in a heavy wind driven rain when it hit the back of the car at an angle.
I solved this by removing the plate and removing the inserts ( kinda tricky but with patience you wont break them. They have a wing that may have to be pushed from the inside to release them ).
I then applied black silicone around the perimeter of the clip and at the back of the clip where th screw comes through.
Reinserted the clip, whipped the excess and put back the plate.
I pulled everything out to get a good idea as to what was happening and If i was to do it again, Instead of removing the clips i think one could just pry them out a little and run a smallbead around the perimeter and then put some into the holes and then put the screw into the wet silicone to fill the space around the threads to keep the water from weeping in.
Good luck with dealer. I know of people who had their wing removed and buggered up finish with no success. Check to see if you have a thin gasket like foam between the trunk lid and the wing. If you do then your problemsmay well be what i had. The water marks inside the trunk behind where the plate is your first look
Good luck
FYI, Both my crank sensors were replaced before they found out the real problem.
Good luck!
How long ( miles or klics) are your oil changes. Do you go by the dealer the car book or the oil life monitor? What is your ratio to town and highway? Do you make a lot of starts? Do you think you have a heavy foot? Do you use the gas pedal as a on/off switch?
Either way seems like a lot.
Reading the stick on the 3.5 is weird. If I put in in so that the engine oil lettering on the yellow pull handle is facing me it reads at the top of the 3/4 inch recess on the dip, however, if I face the lettering toward the fire wall it reads about 3/16 to 1/4 below the previous reading.
I also find that the level of the car is important. My driveway has an very, very slight rise before the garage and if I check it there, it tends to read about 1/2 from the bottom of the recess. Yet if I drive it into the flat of my garage where I do the oily change, its where it should be.
Like I said it the wierdest dipstick I ever saw and i do oily changes for about 10 people.
I currently have about 25500kms with 5500 on the last oily change and now and am reading about 1/8 to 3/16 from the top of the notch ,which i have found is not much more than a few mouthfulls of oil. (Not that i measure it that way. Yuck.)
I always go with 5000 klics/ 3000 miles but this time the oil life monitor will let me know. Previously it comes on after about 7000-7500 klics. .
I change my oil when the change oil light comes on. It usually happens at about 7,000 miles (about 11,000 klics) after a change. My intrigue has around 45,000 miles and this is the second time it happened. I am a fairly moderate driver regarding stops and starts but I go fast on long trips. My driving habits haven't changed since I got this car new. I've never had a similar problem with a car so young.
Beljum
Sorry I haven't been checking this board over the holidays. My '99 had the same problem with stiff steering at about the same mileage. They replaced the rack (also at our expense), and that worked for about 2 weeks. The problem then returned, worse than before. After several weeks in the shop, they determined that the problem was the power steering pump and the pulley that drives it. It took a lot of time for them and effort (including replacing the rack again at THEIR expense) for them to figure that out. Hopefully you won't have to go through the same pain I did.
When does the clicking noise happen and what exactly is wrong with the sub frame. Welds, Cracks and where in the sub frame is the problem that your specialist found.
How does one try and duplicate this.
1999 GLS 3.5, went 75k miles with ISS shaft replacement, crank sensor, alternator, a/c temp sensor, and new front struts..All repairs covered by warranty.had a SLP exhaust, and Michelin Pilot tires..A smooth runner, used 1qt/1200 miles and had changed every 3k..great car, driven hard, traded on 2002 GL in Nov 02..Brakes main area of trouble..
2002 GL-a real steal, troubled from the getgo!!!Sat on dealer's lot for 7 mos. Goodyears were suspect, and Goodyear replaced two at 240 miles for 21.00 and had the other two changed at 2400 miles for 92.00..Front end was aligned at 1500 miles. Suspension is sloppy, struts are suspect and car has a new file at Olds starting day after purchase..Olds dealers are a hit-miss bunch..
GM has a tendency to gut quality on cars up for phase-out..