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Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Anyone else seen this problem and found a solution?
I was told that ignition switch in the dashboard is not designed to handle the weight of many keys hanging of the key ring, at least it is more delicate than the one in the steering column design, and should not be abused.
They changed the switch 2 years ago and I have not had any problems with it. I just have one key on the ring with remote, better safe then sorry.
Not that I abuse the car, but sometimes when you need to get up and go faster and surface is not even on the intersection, tire can spin and then shaking starts. After a second or two it stops, but then acceleration slows down.
I had transmission filter changed and fluid topped up (some 6 quarts) at 110k some 5 months ago on my 98 Intrigue GL with 3800.
Is this something to be worry about?
All i have done so far is change oil every 3000 and flushed trans oil at 75k. I am hoping to keep this vehicle for another 30k miles (currently 96500).
Any tips on what maintanance I shd be looking at? Also has anyone driven these cars 125-150k without major problems? What problems can I expect the future holds for this car?
TIA
I take pride in working on my own cars and refuse to take it to a dealer or cheesy oil change shop for what should be a no-brainer. (Is there any compassion for us old-school types?)
Any suggestions?
Are you using a filter cap wrench? Also, I have found that it seems to be easier to lossen if the engine is hot.
Good luck.
1. The actual blade has slipped out of the wiper and needs replacing or reinserting if the lock clip is still present.
2. The wiper arm has slipped on the spline at the base of the window. The arm is set on a tapered splined shaft to hold it in position.
Open the hood, lift/tilt the black cap at the end of the wiper arm out of the way. Position the wiper in the parked position and tighten the nut but, not too hard. Try it out, all speeds, throw some water on the glass to simulate real use conditions. You may have to tweak it a bit(trial and error), so that it does not overshoot or hit at the base when parked.
The spline is made of steel and the arm of aluminum so that the arm wears and not the spline.
If the spline is plugged, you may have to clean it. If it wears/slips a lot, the taper on the arm gets to large and cannot be tightened and a new arm is needed. Takes a lot of wear but if it has just slipped then you will OK.
Get it fixed fast because if it gets to far out of sync, then it will hit the other arm and then you'll be talking big bucks.
cheers
Isn't it weird that the driver side blade always wears out first. hehe
thanks.
retsbreh@bellsouth.net
Recently I have been experiencing periods of time where my RPM's are higher than normal and erratic. The RPM's, when this problem presents itself, will not idle at the normal 750 or so but in the 1500-1700 range. It will go periods of several days where it will not happen but, like today, is happening more often than it is not. I have not noticed that there is any rhyme or reason to it.
The other situation is every once in a while the car will not start. Won't even turn over! When the key is turned to 'on' everything appears to be normal. No abnormal panel lights or anything but when the key is turned to start all lights go out on the panel and radio, etc. and nothings happens. Seems that all I can do is wait for a few minutes and it acts like nothing is wrong.
Any insight y'all can give me to these problems will be greatly appreciated!!
Is either of those sensors something a do-it-yourself guy can do? How can I find out where they are located?
HTH
I appreciate all the help!
Now, I knew it was the crankshaft sensor, because the SES light came up and I took it to an Auto Zone store to have a scan and it confirmed that it was kaput. $100 for the sensor and $60 for labor. I could have bought the sensor from http://gmpartsdirect.com and have saved $30 though.
If any of these sensors have gone away in your car, you should have the SES light on. Is it on?
Just a thought.
One thing is for sure: when either the crankshaft or the camshaft sensor goes bye-bye, the "Service Engine Soon" DOES come up and a scanner would say which one is bad.
In addition, when either sensor is lost, the engine is put in limp mode and starting can take a few seconds cranking.
What happens is that the ECU cannot tell where the pistons are, but it can estimate based on the timing derived from the camshaft sensor. That's why starting takes longer, because it takes a couple of crank turns to sync up the estimated timing and the actual timing (the camshaft spins 2x slower than the crankshaft).
No matter which sensor goes out, if there's still one, the piston position can still be estimated and thus injection is always sequential. What won't happen is ignition advance, because the position estimation is not that precise.
This is a paraphrase from the service manual. If you want, I can quote it and post on Saturday.
even though i was told my battery had enough cranking amps.....
i replaced battery and everything went back to normal.
I replaced my right front turn signal about 6 months ago. It burned out and I replaced it with long life bulb. About 2 weeks ago, it went out again. I replaced it again about a week ago. Worked fine. I was driving two days ago and it started doing the fast blinking sound (the light did not flash jsut the sound). After a while the light went back to working. Today when I flick the turn signal to go right, it just sounds like it is blinking very fast, but the light does nothing on the outside (front). The light still works since it is the daytime running light but it does not blink. Does anyone have a clue what may be going wrong?
Those circuits for park/turn/drl are quite a circle. if your hazard switch is on the signals are conrolled by the bcm and not the stick.
Try fiddling with the hazard switch several times and see if there is a difference. There is several contacts in the Haz switch and one may be sticking for the right side.
Do all signals work correctly on haz mode?
Does the rear signals flash correctly when the problem is occuring?
Have you checked that there is no corrision / oxidization(possible short) on the socket base and in the plug connections to the headlamp assembly?
Are the replacement bulbs that you are using the same identical number that was the original?
Since I want to avoid any tranny problems, I will probably get it done, but have there been any problems with the tranny after this power flush?
Local Buick/Pontiac/GMC dealer is asking $136, lube shop $120, and the family's mechanic $90, and he was the only one to explain the power flush method.
BTW, dealer will do the "old-fashioned" tranny pan drop/drain and new filter for $80. While I was there, I looked at the new LaCrosse - looks like what the Intrigue WOULD have evolved into had GM not pulled the plug.
Deke
I think the transmission flushes are just a money maker for the shops. In fact, there is a school of thought that says that having a power flush loosens debris that causes problems. If you feel that you must spend the money, I would just drop the pan.
For my '00 Intrigue, I plan on just doing a drain and fill. The machines that are used for the power flush (engine or trans) are known to leave a small amount of their proprietary "detergent" that didn't get flushed out which can cause problems.