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Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    The first thing you should check is that the plastic lower-front spoiler is still intact. It is a piece of black plastic that runs across the bottom front of the car. This peice directs air into the radiator when the car is moving. Without it, hardly any air runs over the radiator.

    Thinner air would reduce the cooling effect, but the car should certainly be able to handle it. Have you ever replaced the thermostat? It could be intermittantly sticking, or not opening up fully. Also, make sure the engine belt is in good shape, and not slipping over the water pump (like if it were oily). Did you say you use 100% Dex-cool? If that is the case, empty it out and use a 50/50 mixture with clean water. Water is what does the actual cooling. Water transfers heat like nobody's business. The coolant (plus pressure) just helps change the boiling/freezing points of the water, prevents the water from corroding the engine and cooling system, and serves as a lubricant for the water pump. It doesn't really have any great heat transferring ability.

    If the coolant mix is the problem and you are going to flush it then you might do some other things as well. If you never changed the thermostat, then you should do this as a preventative measure. Same thing with the radiator cap. They aren't expensive, but can cause expensive repairs when they stop working (especially the thermostat). You might also want to change the hoses too.
  • msw13msw13 Member Posts: 51
    jtoth,
    You could also install a lower temperature T-stat, as the OE one is 195 degrees F. There are several other choices, 180, 160 etc..Stant, Robertshaw and NAPA all make 'em. This will allow your engine to run cooler, without a lot of work...Good luck..
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    If his car really is overheating, a lower-temp thermostat won't make much difference. It might make it take a little longer to overheat, but that's about it. When the engine is in the 200's and climbing, a 160 degree thermostat is just as open as a 195 degree one.

    Jtoth, how about an update on the situation? Did you fix it yet? What have you tried? Thanks.
  • msw13msw13 Member Posts: 51
    While true overheating may or maynot be a product of the thermostat temperature, going to a lower temp should help, as it will open sooner and thus never reach the higher temps....but if there is some other physical problem with the hardware, you are right a change in the temp will not help...I only suggested it to help, as it is a common item to change on performance cars. Besides, his problem may be the temp sender to the gauge and it isn't really overheating...
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    However, if the engine can't cool properly and is going to run up to 220+ degrees, it won't stop at 160 because the thermostat opened earlier. The engine itself makes the heat, and it will make as much whatever the temp of the cooling system. If the cooling system can't vent off enought heat to keep up at 200 degrees (i.e. the temp climbs higher) then it certainly can't keep up at 160 degrees. At 160, it has much less efficiency as the difference in temperature between the coolant and the ambient air is much less than at 200 degrees. The hotter coolant can get rid of more heat than the cooler coolant. If there is a cooling problem, a lower temp thermostat will just delay the inevitable a bit. It won't fix it. The car won't heat up to 160 and then stop, yet if allowed to heat to 190 it would continue to the point of overheating. That doesn't make any sense. The only way the lower temp thermostat would help is if the current thermostat is defective. In this case the lower temp thermostat would help simply because it was a new thermostat.

    Lower temp thermostats are usually used for a performance gain by keeping the engine cooler when it would be possible to run cool (i.e. the only reason it warms up to 190 is because the thermostat makes it). They don't do anything when the conditions cause the engine to run hotter than the original thermostat.
  • msw13msw13 Member Posts: 51
    Your assessment of the function of a thermostat is somewhat misleading, first off, a thermostat is designed to open at a specific temperature, therefore keeping the coolant in the block within a specific range. A lower temp. thermostat will open sooner and thus, the lower temp. thermostat will cycle faster than a higher temp one...They do do something different than a OE one of a higher temp...open sooner....Get a clue....Also, most performance cars reduce the t-stat temp to allow timing advances and reduced chance of detontation. Besides, we haven't heard from the owner of the problem, and that is why we posted in the first place.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    So what's the range on a 160 degree thermostat? All it can affect is the bottom end of the temperature spectrum. It can't magically affect the range of temperatures...

    Interesting that you tell me to get a clue, but then you go off about timing advance and detonation. What does that have to do with overheating?

    Perhaps you should explain to me how a 160 thermostat will help a car with a 190 degree thermostat that runs at 220+ degrees, instead of just being rude.

    You are right, we don't know what is wrong with the guy's car that brought this up. Nor do we know how he resolved it (if he did). However, you advertised low-temp thermostats as a cure for overheating. They are not. They are useful for performance for a car that has adequate cooling capacity and can actually maintain a lower temperature. If a car is overheating, it rather obviously cannot maintain a lower temp...
  • msw13msw13 Member Posts: 51
    Ok, Bud, here goes,
    First off, if anybody was rude, it was you...you need to read your posts, as they do seem that way to me...if you think that making a statement like I did is rude, you are too thin skinned for this forum...And my statements on the performance virtues of a lower thermostat are "going off"??? You are the one who is going off...I already tried to explain.....How do you know it is acutally at 220+ degrees? You don't!! If the gauge or the sender is faulty, he may not even have a overheating problem...And you don't even own an Intrigue....
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    I have re-read my posts, and I don't see what was rude about them. They certainly weren't intended that way. I don't believe I said anything like "get a clue", nor did I refer to you as "Bud". And too thin-skinned for this forum? What, is this some forum of jerks? I'm also not sure what thin skin has to do with noticing the tone of your post.

    Also, I don't think the context of my statement about "going off" infers what you seem to think it does. I didn't mean "going off" like you were raging or venting. I meant you were going off on a tangent, on an unrelated point.

    If in fact the gauge or sender is faulty, a lower temp thermostat would not resolve that either. You made a point that jtoth should try a lower temp thermostat, and I simply opined that it probably wouldn't help his problem. My goal was only to offer some information to the gentleman that posted a cooling question. You certainly don't have to agree with my opinion, but I do believe I am entitled to offer it. Even if I don't own an Intrigue...
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Let's keep the "overheating" in this discussion focused on the engine. :-)

    Thanks!

    KarenS
    Host
    Owners Clubs
  • msw13msw13 Member Posts: 51
    For one thing, you don't seem to agree with my posts, my opinion and then try to rebut them.....Everyone has opinions, I just dont agree with yours and you dont agree with mine, but I never advertised that as a cure for overheating as you claim...I offered it as a suggestion to help his situation..as you did....as a suggestion and you attempt to rebut it as somehow you know all about cooling and thermostats...fact: a lower temp thermostat will allow an engine to run cooler....all things being equal...My attempt to get your attention and have you look at things from a different perspective was prompted by your rebuttal to my post..If you dont have anything nice to say...don't say it...
  • javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    I use to own a 1999 Olds Intrigue GX with a 3.8 engine, custom 18" Lexani chrome wheels, 235/40/18ZR Nitto eXtreme tires, a Kenwood eXcelon KDC817 head unit, custom 6 speaker setup. Well my question was, did any of the Intrigue owners here ever experience any water problems inside of the car gathering on the front passenger side floor, after some what heavy rain. I had that happen to me like twice, I remember when it would rain I used to worry and think if the Intrigue would fill up with water on the passenger side. I think it only did it to me twice, or maybe it could have been because the door was like not fully close, I remember mentioning this to my lady several times that she did not close the passenger door all the way, being able to see via the passenger side mirror. That's really all the problems I had with the Intrigue, I loved that 3.8 engine doe. My Intrigue was totalled in a car accident, which was not my fault "honest", I was not even inside of the car, my car was parked and rammed from the back. I'm now a current owner of a 1999 Onyx Black Aurora with a 4.0 engine, no Northstar engine here and thank goodness for that I heard they tend to leak oil here and there, yes I already customized it already with the 18 inch wheels, Kenwood eXcelon KDC817, Kenwood component speakers, Kenwood eXcelon MP3/CDR/CDRW Changer. Believe it or not everything I had on the Intrigue fitted into the Aurora from rims to sound system and radio, that's why I chose OLDS. I'm willing to sell my custom rims for around $2000, I live around the Chicagoland Area, so let me know here if anyone here is interested in upgrading there Intrigue. Good luck to all, Loving that Aurora.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    It's from www.thecarconnection.com and it mentions the Intrigue.

    The NHTSA also is pushing ahead a study of about 500,000 mid-size GM sedans and minivans for a possible steering defect. Reuters says more than 1200 people have reported locked steering while driving; 28 crashes have also been reported. The models involved include the 1997 Chevrolet Venture and Malibu; Olds Silhouette and Cutlass; Pontiac Grand Prix and Tran Sport; and the 1998 Olds Intrigue. This stage of investigation precedes a formal recall, although not all similar studies are elevated to a full recall.
  • jocollinsjocollins Member Posts: 3
    I brought my 99 (30K) in for the real rough start, also needed 1 qt oil after only 1k of travel. My dealer said they reset the error but it is still not starting unless I give it gas, and of course the dealer tech cannot duplicate the problem - 4 months to go under the big "W". Has anyone solved this crank shaft problem?
  • buzzard4buzzard4 Member Posts: 43
    My 99 GLS (70K) had the sensor replaced within the first 500 miles (before I bought it as a demo). Haven't had a problem since. I don't know what they "reset," but they should replace the sensor. You're probably close to being out of warranty (if not already) so I'd push them to make it right.
  • segel10segel10 Member Posts: 8
    I have read with interest the problems with oil consumption and Faulty Crankshaft Sensor. Our car has 40000 miles on it now and it has just recently started to use about an quart every 1200 to 1500 miles. Also, we have had a periodic rough start and idle until the engine is warmed up. I think the rough start may be related to the Crankshaft Sensor, but has anyone found the reason for the oil consumption.
  • arizgeorge1arizgeorge1 Member Posts: 19
    I have a 2000 Intrigue and fortunate not to have any steering power or oil consumption problems. Its been a great cruising car for us. However, my biggest complaint with it is an intermittent whining noise from the engine. The whine can be heard only from inside the car and not under the hood. The dealer thought that it is an "electrical feedback" from the alternator or routing of the electrical harness. Unfortunately, the whine is not consistent enough for them to really diagnose the problem. Has anyone else had a similar problem?
  • jocollinsjocollins Member Posts: 3
    broght my 1999 gl back to dealer, they still could not duplicate the problem (but it happens to me every time i try to start engine) so anyway they replaced the ignition switch and so far that is working.
  • marktestmarktest Member Posts: 43
    I just read that the Intrigue problems will not exist after 2002 model year - they're discontinuing 2 years ahead of the Olds shutdown. I had a 98 Intrigue with all the steering noise problems, aerodynamic noise problems, failed water pump at 48K miles, leaking water into the trunk. Unquestionably the worst automobile I ever owned.

    I consider myself lucky that I got rid of the car after 2.5 years and only lost $15,200 in depreciation. I think it's a wonderful thing that GM is doing to eliminate these Intrigue problems for the car buying community.
  • likeswhenilikeswheni Member Posts: 5
    Just bought a 1999 Intrigue GLS a few weeks ago with the 3 month GM warranty. Within a few days I noticed what seemed to be something buckling or knocking around as if loose in what seemed to be the steering column, although i can also feel it in the break pedal. I just brought it to the dealer and they said they'd lube the intermediate steering shaft. I don't see how lubing something will stop whatever it is from moving around, but my question is, will the lube job just fix it long enough for the warranty to expire or is it a real repair? Thanks alot.
  • delrickdelrick Member Posts: 105
    You have a dilemma. With just a 90 day window, you have to be leery about the "lube" repair.

    Olds has had to replace many of these components. Sometimes several times to get a permanent repair.

    I have had the "lube" in my 2002, but still have the occasional groan that tells me that more substantial attention may have to be paid at some point in my 5 year warranty.

    I would probably insist that they somehow "certify" that fix, or agree to do additional work if the problem reappears after your 90 days.

    Other wise, replace the parts in warranty.
  • winter9winter9 Member Posts: 98
    My wife's 99 GL, 46k mi. 3.8L, experienced it's first (major?) problem. When attempting to start it, it turns over about 1/4 turn and stops. Thinking it could possibly be a dead battery, I tried jumping it and got the same results. I remember reading a number of posts about crankshaft sensors and my next thought was that could be the culprit. For those of you that have had the no-start condition, has it been the crank sensor? If memory serves me well, there was another sensor that could cause a no-start.
    Would an Autozone be able to diagnose this for no charge? Is the repair job fairly straight-forward so I could do it myself? If not, would I be better off taking it in to my dealer or go private?
    Thanks much.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    a crank sensor would keep the engine from turning over. It might not start, but the engine should still keep turning over while the key is turned.

    If it is a dead battery, try letting the jumper cables sit for a few minutes to put some charge in the battery. Then try starting it. If the battery is really really dead it can prevent the jump start from working.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    I thought it was on the Intrigue board that some folks mentioned the wires pinching or the insulation wearing out in their sunshade? There is an article about it here. If it wasn't Intriguers, I apologize.
  • bucksportbucksport Member Posts: 5
    I have a 98 Intrigue with 56,000 on it. Am having what appears to be an A/C sensor problem. Oftentimes the outside temp on the thermometer will indicate that it is 36 deg when it is actually about 90 out. According to the owner's manual the A/C compressor wont come on til thermometer indicates it is over 40 out. For instance, we were on the freeway and temp outside was over 90. A/C was working fine. Suddenly the outside temp indicator dropped all the way to 34 and A/C quit. Hit the "off" button and let it set for a few minutes. It eventually came back on.
    Havent had this in to the dealer yet. Anyone else had this problem? Soultion? Thanks, Buck
  • redline65redline65 Member Posts: 693
    My outside temperature sensor reads the wrong temperature also, but not as bad as yours. Mine is usually about 20 degrees lower than the outside temperature, even after I've been driving a while. I'll probably take it in this week to get it fixed.
  • winbrowinbro Member Posts: 235
    I too have a 1998 intrigue which just started overheating (to the 3/4 mark). like yours, it always ran just below the middle mark. I live in NY.

    I bought texaco GM dex cool approved anti-freeze and poured 2/3 into the overflow reservoir. then went for a drive. the needle went up high, then came back down to where it should be. when I got home, I poured the rest of the gallon in the overflow tank. the needle has been fine since.
  • mfd37mfd37 Member Posts: 15
    I've got a 2002 Intrigue and had a whine that lasted for about 30-45 seconds when the car was started cold and then it was never consistant enough to pinpoint. I took it to the dealer and they immediately identified it as a "second stage air intake motor". Seems the motor was binding and causing the whine. It was replaced under warranty and hasn't been a problem since.
  • ddarterddarter Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a '99 Intrigue and it has
    abnormal tire wear on the inner tread of the passenger side tire. I have seen it on one other Intrigue as well. But that one had it on all four. If anyone has this same problem, could you please let me know what you think the cause may be. If known. And for those of you who have not noticed, maybe you should yank a tire off and check. Wouldn't hurt. Thanks.
  • mavis1mavis1 Member Posts: 3
    The other day while driving, I noticed a spattering of spots on the plastic covering over the gauges. I tried getting them off but to no avail. Then I noticed that they cast a shadow which gave the impression that they could be on the inside. I took the car to the dealer and he tried a couple of products which did not work. He also claimed that he was able too rub a couple of them off(I couldn't tell). He asked me if I sprayed anything on the dash, because in no way could they be on the inside. I told him Armor-All, but that was a couple of months ago. I can't believe it took me that long to notice these spots. Anyhow,does anyone have a suggestion on how to remove this without ruining the plastic? Also, I would like to mention that about two weeks ago, my friend filled the coolant container to the top(didn't read the manual, and it was not Dex-cool, is that bad?) and thankfully didn't tighten the cap and the overfill apparently blew out onto the insulation of the hood because you can see the water stains. Any help is welcomed. Thank you
  • vcjumpervcjumper Member Posts: 1,110
    You are not supposed to mix Dex Cool and regular coolant.. It can congele and turn into something way too thick. Should probably have the cooling system flushed and refilled to be safe.
  • donp9donp9 Member Posts: 29
    I also had a problem with a clunking noise when I turned the steering wheel left or right on my 2000 Intrigue. My dealer replaced the power steering gear and the problem went away. The auto air conditioning was also not working properly in that it would show 4 -5 degrees celcius as an outside temp when it was actually around 30 degrees celcius therefore the system would not turn the A/c on. The dealer had to replace the outside air temp sensor and the entire HVAC control unit on the dash.
  • oldsdanlpoldsdanlp Member Posts: 6
    I recently had the windows tinted on my 2000 Intigue and the reception of AM on the radio about dropped in half. The tint place says its because of the new metalized film they use. Has anyone had this problem and what did you do to rectify it. I hate to drill a hole in the car for an external antenna.
  • arizgeorge1arizgeorge1 Member Posts: 19
    I also recently had my windows retinted on my 2000 Intrigue using a 3M Film. I have had no problems with the radio reception. However, because they had so much difficulty in covering the antenna ceramic matrix for the rear window with the film (no uniform bonding), I then had them remove that portion of the film off the antenna. You may want to try that "removal solution" for your rear window too.
  • vcjumpervcjumper Member Posts: 1,110
    How hard was it for them to remove the tint from the area where the silly dot matrix area? How does it look with it gone? My tint looks pretty bad up there though excellent everywhere else.
  • smitty59smitty59 Member Posts: 3
    I still have a 98 Intrigue (first big mistake), and have had all the normal problems - clunking steering shaft, warped rotors - but I also had the water leak in the passenger compartment (also had failed CD player - $450 to replace). The first time it leaked, I had at least an inch of water in the floorboard, and after "bailing it out", I took it to the dealer (second big mistake) and showed them where the water was dripping from (below the A/C blower motor housing). When I went back to pick it up, they said, "We sprayed the water hose on it, and it wouldn't leak." As I drove away, you could still hear water sloshing inside the A/C blower. After about 6 months, all that water caused the blower bearings to rust, and whenever you turned on the A/C, it would squeal. I took it back to the dealer (third big mistake) and told them to fix it. This time, they replaced the blower motor, but did nothing about the leak, other than to make sure the drain wasn't blocked. Finally, a few months later, it continued to leak, and I was fed up with it. I took it back to the dealer and screamed and shouted. Finally, they took a small grill off just under the windshield where the air for the A/C comes into the car. They found a gasket that wasn't installed properly, and re-glued into place. It hasn't leaked since, but I can't help but wonder how much money GM wastes with dealers that won't properly diagnose a problem the first time.

    I now have developed an oil leak around the oil pan gasket. I've called several different places, but they all want $450 to replace the gasket. The only thing I can figure is that there is something in the way of the oil pan that they have to move. Otherwise it should take less than 30 minutes to change the gasket.

    Be thankful your car was totalled - it probably save you lots of headaches in the long run.
  • donp9donp9 Member Posts: 29
    Ive noticed some other Intrigue owners have mentioned a rough idle at start up. My 2000 Intrigue just started having this problem @ 59,000 kms but only when the engine is cold. Any body else experiencing this problem?
  • arizgeorge1arizgeorge1 Member Posts: 19
    Having the tinted film removed off the antenna portion of the back window looks better to me than leaving the film in place with that "rough, crappy, marginal bonding look". However, you will have about a 10 cm gap at the top of the window without the film. That section of film should be easy to remove unless it has been on the window for a long time. I would suggest having a "tinting professional" remove the film, so that you don't disturb the antenna and also to leave a straight uniform line across the window where the film will end. Good luck!
  • brandon873brandon873 Member Posts: 1
    I recenty had lost battery power on my 2000 Intrigue and the radio's anti-theft system locked out my radio. I contacted the dealer and they of course told me to bring it in and it would take an hour for them to get me my code (probably charge me as well). I was wondering if anyone knew what the factory code is (if there is just one) or if there is some other way to reset it similar to the procedure for turning off the change oil light. Hope someone can help, thanks.
  • ketchketch Member Posts: 217
    I have a 2000 GL with 25k miles, and the same things occurs. The dealer said it seemd fine to them and did nothing. It has gotten worse and i really now feel it over some bimps thru the steering wheel and brake pedal. Let me know if this is gone after they lubed. Anyone know of a TSB and number on this????

    ---------original post-----------------------
    #71 of 90 Intermediate Steering Shaft by likeswheni Jul 09, 2002 (02:37 pm)
    Just bought a 1999 Intrigue GLS a few weeks ago with the 3 month GM warranty. Within a few days I noticed what seemed to be something buckling or knocking around as if loose in what seemed to be the steering column, although i can also feel it in the break pedal. I just brought it to the dealer and they said they'd lube the intermediate steering shaft. I don't see how lubing something will stop whatever it is from moving around, but my question is, will the lube job just fix it long enough for the warranty to expire or is it a real repair? Thanks alot.
  • magnusmmagnusm Member Posts: 3
    My problem seems fairly similar to that posted a earlier in the board. Our '98 Intrigue will run up to close to the 3/4 mark when it's warm out and I get stuck in traffic at all (i.e. no natural air flow over the radiator). The odd thing is that contrary to common sense this actually improves when I turn on the A/C and it goes back down to a normal level. Turns out the cooling fans are not coming on except when the A/C is turned on, no matter how hot the car gets. So it seems like maybe a problem with the fan temperature switch (supposed to turn on the fans when the coolant reaches a certain temp). Anyone have any idea where this is or had this problem resolved, I can't find this switch/sensor and based on my previous experience with GM mechanics it'll take them at least $500 to figure it out.
    Thanks for any help; also FYI, if anyone ever has a power window motor go south on them it's the easiest thing in the world to replace and can be done in about an hour max with a screw driver and a socket set and the motor for about $100 from the local parts store (dealer wanted close ~$500 to do it).
  • oldsdanlpoldsdanlp Member Posts: 6
    My 2000 Intrigue has 57k mi. on it and is experencing its second case of hard starting. The dealer replaced the crank sensor (factory manual says it has two of them) at 47k and fixed the problem. Now its doing it again but the dealer can't duplicate the problem now, although I can of course as soon as I got it home!! It acts like its been flooded when it finally does start because a small cloud of smoke comes out of the exhaust. Anyone else have this problem?
  • akitadogakitadog Member Posts: 117
    I had a similar but worse problem than you. My car would not start AT ALL. Ths happened after the engine got to operating temp and it was hot outside. If I turned off the car, then restarted it when it was still hot, it would not start. Only after it had cooled completely (hours later) it would start. After 5 trips to the dealer, they finally were able to reproduce it and found out it was the fuel pressure regulator. I still occasionally get the hard start (while the engine is warm, of course) but the engine does start.

    Apparently there isn't enough pressure in the fuel line and the regulator controls the pump. It's as if the pump is caught asleep at its post, and then it jumps up and groggily does its job.

    Ask them to check the fuel pressure regulator.
    (BTW, they replaced BOTH of my crank sensors before they found the real problem)

    Good luck!
  • jan98jan98 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Intrigue. Frustrated & very disappointed with ongoing repairs to solve clunking in front end and in brake pedal. My Intrigue has been serviced several times for the same ongoing clunking as well as having the driver & passenger doors realigned 3 times. Other less significant problems; squeeking in the front end caused by driving over a bump in the road. Squeeking is annoyingly loud and re-occurs. Sounds like I'm driving a 20 year old car! I purchased this car for high safety ratings & reliability. I unfortunately can't help feeling unsafe. The clunking in the brake pedal has again become so severe, & due in for service yet again next week. This time service is with another dealer in another town. I understand that other 98 owners have experienced these same problems. Has anyone had the clunking problems resolved?? GM doesn't understand that some of us folks just CAN'T sell their problem car and purchase another. Some of us purchase cars for long-term especially when spending $25,000+ on such a vehicle. I would expect these problems from lower end model cars and/or with older model vehicles not a 2-3-4 year old car. Look, style & comfort is A+. Looking for input on clunking problem. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • likeswhenilikeswheni Member Posts: 5
    Jan 98 and Ketch

    The GM solution for the clunking problem you are having in the steering column of your intrigue is to lubricate the intermediate steering shaft (or column?). Its a very common intrigue problem, but the lubrication seems to work. (you can do a search of this message board and find out more). Mine hasn't been a problem in the 3 months since it was fixed, although I am worried I may have to re-lubricate it every so often. I think it would have cost about $80 at the dealer, maybe more, but mine was fixed under warranty so I can't quite remember. Good luck. The link below has more.

    http://service.gm.com/gmtechlink/Nov2001/articles/steeringshaft.html
  • jocollinsjocollins Member Posts: 3
    see message 65, crank shaft sensor but same problem then they replaced the crank shaft sensor and the ignition switch and it has been ok ever since - go figure. jc
  • butltcbutltc Member Posts: 3
    I haven't seen any transmission postings here, so maybe this is the first.

    I have a 98 Intrigue GL that just clicked over 48,000 miles. As soon as that happened, the transmission began slipping terribly. It's sitting at the dealer now, who says that it's shot. That's a $2,400+ repair on a car whose blue book isn't even $7,000.

    No response yet from Oldsmobile as to whether they would like to participate in funding this repair.

    Any others with similar problems?

    Tom
  • tandertander Member Posts: 21
    The OE Goodyear Eagles on my 99 GL 3.5 are about shot, cant decide on whether to get Michelin Pilot HGT or Michlin X1 (or XRadial at Sams Club). Dilemma is H tires are probable more fun, but S tires have 80,000 tread life. Finally, apart from price,is there any difference between michlin XOnes and the sams Club exclusive, Michelin Xradials
  • jg28jg28 Member Posts: 257
    my bro in law's Intrigue had a similar problem with only 34K on it. Transmission completely shot and had to be replaced. This was on a 2001 GL. Luckily LUCKILY it was still under warranty.
  • donp9donp9 Member Posts: 29
    My 2000 Intrigue with 64000 Km has developed a ticking sound when I start it cold. Sounds like lifters. I can also hear it when it warms up but not as bad. It may have always been there however I just noticed it the other day. Dealer says it is normal operating noise. Anybody else having the same symptoms?
This discussion has been closed.