Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon

12122242627115

Comments

  • hgutsteinhgutstein Member Posts: 65
    It is not a subie standard part is it?
  • stevesr0stevesr0 Member Posts: 24
    I had made plans to get a WRX from one dealer, but when their March order came in, they couldn't get a red one.

    I took another look at the dealerships in my state (NJ) and found a red, MT S/W but with a lot of options that I didn't really need. They advertised only an MSRP $25K (compared to the $22.3K) on the one I had ordered, so I didn't think they would match the offer.

    I called them yesterday anyway and the salesman checked with his manager who OK'd the price, if I got in before they sold it to someone else.

    I went in today and after looking at it (pretty color) and driving it, paid for it with a credit card and drove off. The financial person was non-hassling (offered a 9K mi extension of warranty with guaranteed immediate free loaner for $99 and etching for $189 but didn't pressure us).

    Drove off and it is sitting in my yard far away from where anyone visiting us should drive their vehicle. It was a 60 mile drive -- the car felt "solid". Have to rebuild my shifting skills but looking forward to exploring this car.

    Dealer is Pine Belt Subaru in Lakewood, NJ. The price was (by my calculations) $800 below invoice ($2900 below MSRP) including all options.

    Steve
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Congratulations Steve! Fun times ahead, and good weather to enjoy them as well.

    -Colin
  • ltcolumboltcolumbo Member Posts: 40
    What size is the receiver? I have a bike rack with a 2" slider and was wondering if it will fit.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I believe it's 1.5 at the biggest. It is not a full 2" one, you'll need an adapter for it to fit. I did meet someone at an I-club meet with a hitch on his WRX wagon, and there was no cutting of the bumper.

    -mike
  • stevesr0stevesr0 Member Posts: 24
    Thanks for good wishes.

    Looking forward to becoming familiar with this little red car.

    Steve
  • artgeckoartgecko Member Posts: 78
    Hi list,
    My title arrived Saturday, so I got my plates and some plate covers. went to put them on today and ran into a little problem. No place to mount the front plates! When I took off the rear temporary tag, I saw that there were two Nylon inserts for the self threading screws at the top, but no holes for the bottom. Is this how those of you with front plates have yours mounted? If so, my dealer forgot to give me the inserts.

    I ended up taking some spare screws and sandwiching the frame, cover, and rear plate together with the bottom screw holes, and then used the supplied screws to mount the whole shebang with the top holes. This shouldn't rattle, and looks OK. I'll do the same when I get the front fasteners or whatever is used.

    Still waiting on a call-back or questionaire about the dealer's performance. Audi and Ford both called within the first week or two. it has been almost a month with Subaru. How long 'till they call from you guys experience.

    Still waiting on the cargo liner I ordered Feb 13th, too.

    I did get the SCCA info, stickers, card, etc today and Saturday. Looking for someone in the area who does Solo II to go along with to Akron. First week in April. Then I'll see how bad these tires really are. Local chapter says D production. I thought the WRX was in one of the new street classes?

    Steve
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Steve (how many of you are there? -- grin),

    you can compete in D Stock (DS) or a new provisional class called Street Touring X (STX). you should buy a rulebook to learn all the specifics, but the major differences between the two are allowed modifications-- stock very little, STX quite a bit-- and that stock can use any DOT legal tire and STX uses 'real' street tires with treadwear at least 140.

    honestly if you're on street tires you'll probably be closer to the pack in STX, assuming some seriously prepped DS cars are present. warning though, RE92s are terrible for autocross.

    -Colin
  • artgeckoartgecko Member Posts: 78
    Thanks for the info. The SCCA kit included the form to order the general race regs and the Solo book, so I plan to get both.


    Mine's bone stock with the exception of a removed resonator. (Oh, and the removed Impreza logo, and installed shift knob and trim.)


    STX - That was the new one I was trying to remember. I saw something about it in the latest Grassroots Motorsports magazine, I think.


    As for the tires...well, the sooner I wear them out, the sooner I can get new ones! I think I've just about exceeded my excuse of "well both of my cars and all the accessories still don't cost as much as yours..." I think by now they do.


    One 2002 WRX + one 1958 MGA + goodies for both = one 2001 Audi A6.


    And I think the Steve/Stephen population now exceeds the Dave quotient on this list.


    Steve


    http://homepage.mac.com/subaruwrx/

    http://my.en.com/~smorris/mga/

  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Good plan on wearing out the stock tires fast. Smart.

    You will brutalize the outer shoulders of them no matter what you do. It is not uncommon to see them scuffed all the way to the "B" in Bridgestone. Just try not to get frustrated by their squirminess or lack of traction-- actually, it can be a bit fun to slide around that much as long as you don't expect to win. ;-)

    -Colin
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    What is "allowed" in stock classes? From my brief knowledge it is basically:

    Cat Back
    Tires
    Shocks/Struts
    air-filter
    brake pads

    Can you modify your resonator or anything like that on the intake? I know a lot of people removed snorkus from their cars does that knock you out of Stock? Just curious.

    -mike
  • barresa62barresa62 Member Posts: 1,379
    Steve, I think you're about our "population" :-)

    Stephen
  • djasonwdjasonw Member Posts: 624
    Hi everyone!
    I test drove a 5 Sp wagon last weekend and I was very impressed. I currently lease a Mercedes C320 (BORING) and I own a 2002 Jeep Liberty Limited. The Jeep was great this winter but was not fun when driving at 80 MPH on interstate 84 in PA/NY. It still IS a nice truck. My inlaws are buying it from me so now I can have a "FUN" car.
    I've read nearly ever post this past week and even saw the pros and cons of m/t vs auto. I prefer a 5 sp BUT I live on Long Island and hit TONS of traffic at times. I go to NE PA nearly every weekend so I will have to settle for the auto. I test drove the auto on Long Island this week and it wasn't that bad. Definitely some lag on takeoff but once the turbo is spooled this car creates a grin you can't remove! I just can't imagine what this car will be like on the highway! Add to that, the utility of a wagon, decent ride, decent equipment, AWD and you have a true winner!
    Questions.... anyone get the guage package?
    Does getting the guages delete the clock?

    Thanks in advance for your replies.....

    Jason
  • keithllb1keithllb1 Member Posts: 30
    When I bought my wagon I could have gotten the gauges but I really didn't see the need for them, the more you drive the car the more you'll feel when the turbo is spoiled up and ready to roll with the slightest touch of the gas petal. I believe you lose the clock when you get the gauge cluster. I love this car more and more each day I drive it. It makes going to work a pleasure, I don't even like parking it because I have to get out of the car. The seats are very comfortable and I love the AWD combined with a high output turbo! It is a blast to drive! I still haven't taken it above 4000 rpms, and I can't wait until I put over 1000 miles on the car so I can experience the beauty of AWD at a high speed, not thrilled with the tires, but I'm not complaining at all!
  • socprofinblrexsocprofinblrex Member Posts: 18
    Got my black WRX wagon in November and have put 6000 miles on it. I can't stay out of the car for long. As Winter dies down in Minnesota, I'm thinking of upgrading rims and tires for Summer. I used tirerack.com to make some preselections (haven't ordered). I like the 17 in. Mille Miglia Action and Action Sport. I also like the ratings of the Bridgestone Potenza S-03 Pole Position tires. I've never purchased more than replacement tires in the same sizes for my past five Subarus.

    Can I assume the rims and tires that come up on tirerack.com are acceptable? What are the primary concerns?

    Also, I'm thinking of utilizing the stock 16 in. rims as my Winter rims and run the stock tires until replacement Winter/Snow tires are needed. Sound logical?

    I'm new to posting here, so I apologize if this info is already out there.
  • barresa62barresa62 Member Posts: 1,379
    The only drawback about your wheel choice is that they are "heavy"! Bear in mind that the stock 16" wheels are under 17 lbs. The Mille Miglia's are over 20 lbs. The offset is ok (an important aspect in regards to Subarus). I believe the BBS RK's are about 19 lbs as is the Prodrive P1s. The P7s are a bit over 20 lbs. The lightest wheel on Tirerack for the WRX is the SSR Comps at about 13 lbs for $375 ea. As a general rule you'll find that the lighter the wheel, the more expensive it is. I would go on the i-club and do a search on wheels. There is a great buy on Rota sub-zeros (about 16 lbs ea) at less than $600 for a set of 4. I just purchased Volks Rays Gram Lites for $269 per wheel from my searching on the i-club. Volks are top-notch wheels so I was willing to spend a bit more. Another option (I almost went w/this) is to buy the 17" OEM (std on the WRX outside of N.America) wheels for about $225 ea from www.vividracing.com. They look very similar to the 16" stockers and are about 17 lbs ea. The Tirerack is convenient and customer friendly but they only have a fraction of the wheels that fit and are available for the WRX. Hope this helps instead of hinders. I know from personal anguish that the wheel choice from a pocketbook and asthetic point of view can be a struggle. :-)

    BTW, I utilized my 16" stockers as my winter rims and have Dunlop Wintersports mounted on them. They are still on (until the forementioned 17"s get here) and are great all-around winter tires for cars w/a performance pedigree. They are about $102 ea on Tirerack. The S03s are great tires but are currently backordered nationwide. Should be available about 3/22. I went w/Toyo T1s. They are actually a bit better regarding the wear factor than the S03s. They also are quieter and meet the high standards of hydroplaning resistence that the S03s have established. Oh yeah, about $10 less per tire too.

    Stephen
  • WarpDriveWarpDrive Member Posts: 506
    Yeah, what Stephen said.

    The 17x7 BBS RK are 17 lbs and so is the OZ Chrono Evolution sold at Tirerack. Prodrive P1's are very strong but also fairly heavy at 19.5 lbs. The Bridgestone S-03 tires are very good but also very heavy compared to other tires (something like 25 lbs in 215/45 size) compared to around 20lbs for Toyo T1-S which are one of the lighter tires. I'm going with the T1-S.

    You can go to wheelweights.net and check out the weights of wheels there.

    If you go with a 17x7.5 wheel, you'd want 225/45R17 size tires. 215/45R17 tires are more suited for a 17x7 inch wheel.

    SSR and Volks are good quality wheels but you pay more for them. The SSR Competition are a bit fragile but extremely light at 13-14 lbs. The stock 16x6.5 Subaru wheels are 16.5 lbs. I took the middle road, and went with 17x7 OZ Superleggeras which are 15.1 lbs and strong also (see my unmounted wheel here ) and 215/45 Toyo T1-S.

    The consequence of running wheels/tires that are too heavy is it can affect the way the wheels stay planted on the ground and affect the handling. The wheel will tend to "bounce" around more easily as the suspension fights to keep the wheel on the ground during bumps. I'd stay away from the Mille Miglia wheels for that reason, they are quite a bit heavier than your stock setup.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Another contender is the Firestone (hold the laughter, please) Firehawk SZ50 EP. I wanted a tire that would provide awesome grip in the dry and rain, handle crisply and predictably, but also ride well (for a summer tire) with low road noise. Oh and last longer than average, say 25,000 miles or more.

    I usually buy the most grippy in the dry, most responsive summer tires I can get for less than $100 each and ignore wet performance, ride comfort, and mileage. I tend to get about 15,000 miles out of a set of summers as a result. But now I'm removing the coilovers from my car in favor of softer SPT springs and KYB AGX struts, and I figure since I'll be getting some comfort back (lots, actually) I'll get some tires that do it all well.

    I didn't think the S-03 would last the miles, based on comments I've read and (this might be an unfair judgement) mileage others have gotten out of the S-02. I also ruled out the Yokohama AVS Sport because of mileage, and possibly ride comfort.

    The short list was:

    Bridgestone RE730
    Toyo T1-S
    Firestone SZ50 EP

    Why did I pick the Firestone? Well for one, Firestone has been just a marketing arm of Bridgestone, and I think the SZ50 is the one true performance tire Bridgestone 'lets' them have but it's a good one. I had the original SZ50 on my Camaro-- ok, I admit they were on wheels I traded for-- and I really liked them. I also drove them on a friend's Stealth turbo, great stuff.

    I haven't driven the RE730, but I have seen a lot of comments from drivers who have had higher performance tires and from autocrossers that like the heck out of this tire BUT they think the sidewalls are a bit squirmy for serious use. Yes I know they are highly touted by the Tirerack and by their user surveys-- but I suspect the lower price invites people that have never driven top level tires to try them. When something is the best you've ever had, you have no point of reference above it. ;)

    So anyway, it came down to a crap shoot between the T1-S and the SZ50 EP. I went they way I did because A) the tirerack doesn't carry Toyo and B) I leaned toward the new version of something I already new about.

    I'm liking them so far, but only have about 200 miles on them. Will autocross them this Sunday, hope they don't chunk. If they do maybe I'll use Firestone's 30 day test drive guarantee? ;)

    -Colin
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Colin,

    Kind of going OT, but was the whole Firestone tire incident ever an issue in your decision criteria? Are the SZ50 EPs made in the US or are they rebadged Bridgestones?

    Ken
  • barresa62barresa62 Member Posts: 1,379
    I forgot a couple of choices (bound to happen). I, too like the OZ Superleggras but I wanted a 7.5" rim and they aren't available in this width. Otherwise they would have worked great and looked mighty fine on my wagon! I also like the Firestone SZ250 tire but it isn't available in the 225/45x17 size that would fit the best on a WRX with a 7.5"rim. If none of my requirements are someone else's then both of these choices are excellent. :-)

    Stephen
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I had a set of firestones that were decent all-weather tire. I'm sure they'll work out fine. Although the GTAs I had did chunk @ auto-x pretty badly.

    -mike
  • WarpDriveWarpDrive Member Posts: 506
    Both similar in price and both have great user reviews, but I let the weight be the deciding factor. The Toyo T1-S are a couple of lbs lighter than the Firestone SZ50EP in the size I wanted. I'd like to hear what you think about them cause I was so close to getting the Firestones based on the uniformly good reviews all around. The SZ50EP is a different breed of tire than regular Firestone offerings and uses all the same good stuff designed into the S-02/S-03 so it should be very very good.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Ken, interesting question. I think we can address it without straying OT...

    No I didn't consider the Firestone recall at all. The SZ50 EP is in fact made in Japan and I believe it is the only Firestone tire that comes from the plant other than race tires. (IRL still uses Firestone, right? don't follow it myself.) WarpDrive is correct, some of the Firestone names for the technologies employed in the SZ50 EP are different than the Bridgestone names, but it's really the same stuff. dual-layer tread, enhanced silica, jointless band, long-link carbons, blah blah blah.

    Including shipping, mount & balance on a Hunter GSP9700, new high quality valve stems, and disposal of my old summer tires it was over $700. Seems like money well spent so far!

    -Colin
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    So, how can one find out if a Firestone tire (or even Bridgestones, for that matter) is made in Japan? After the whole recall thing, I had pretty much written off Firestones as a possibile aftermarket tire.

    Ken
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Ken- I'm no fan of Firestone but I think their problems have been totally blown out of proportion. If I were considering tires and Firestone had a competitive model, I would certainly include it.

    -Frank P.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Ken,

    In this case I had a hunch that the SZ50 EP was. I asked someone on the iClub if they would mind looking at their sidewall-- sure enough, in relatively small print it's right there MADE IN JAPAN.

    It's on mine too of course. I hate to steer this OT so I'm not going to comment on the whole Firestone debacle any further than saying that I agree with Frank.

    -Colin
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Gotcha. Thanks. Moving on...

    Ken
  • stevesr0stevesr0 Member Posts: 24
    The little red wrx I bought came with a turbo gauge, but no instruction manual. Is there a guide available or can someone advise how I interpret the readings and make sure it is working ok?

    Thanks

    Steve3
  • stevesr0stevesr0 Member Posts: 24
    When I bought my wrx recently, I gave the vin and other basic information to my insurance company and was advised that the auto insurance would cost $1900. In contrast, my last car a Ford Focus, was under $900.

    I assume that they just ran the VIN and it came out as high performance or sport vehicle and this led to higher rate.

    Is this correct and have others routinely had such a boost purely because of performance level of car. I have NO auto risk factors.

    Steve
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yep thats what happens when you buy a turbo car :( With Boy R!cer following and with people wrecking their WRXs left and right.

    -mike
  • twrxtwrx Member Posts: 647
    and turn 50 years old and a WRX wagon insures for $700 per year.
    TWRX
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    TWRX depending on when you insured your WRX you may get whacked @ renewal time.

    -mike
  • mtnbiker3mtnbiker3 Member Posts: 8
    ...and only 29. I was taking care of some other business at my insurance company and had them do some pricing on different cars. The WRX was going to cost me $738 /year. But the feeling on i-club seems to be that rates will really be on the increase over time, especially with the number of folks smashing them up, as Mike pointed out above.
  • saintvipersaintviper Member Posts: 177
    I'm 28 years old and pay $490 per year. $500,000 worth of collision and liability coverage with a $150 deductible.
  • twrxtwrx Member Posts: 647
    Mike, as hard to believe s it is my insurance on the WRX actually went down recently! My purchase was in June. At the time my '98 Forester was $350/6 mo. The WRS was $430/6 mo. In October I got a letter from St. Farm that due to the low risk of driving in Indiana my rate was being REDUCED from $430 to $350. How 'bout that?

    Bruce
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Nice Bruce. :)

    -mike
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Steve -

    Try a search on the i-club. I found this one by searching the FAQ forum:
    http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=118298&referrerid=767
    You could also search the Factory Forced Induction forum and others.

    -Dennis
  • cinosweivecinosweive Member Posts: 166
    Does anybody have any experience w/ using jack stands on their WRX? It seems the jack uses the only logical place to place a jack stand, so if you jack the car using the appropriate frame indents, where can you place the stand?
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    There are a pair of frame braces that run down either side of the car at the front, coming back from the rear attachment point for the control arms.

    I jack the car under the crossmember jacking plate and put jackstands under both sides.

    There's something similar in the rear, except it's a longitudinal link. I jack under the rear differential there.

    -Colin
  • hunter001hunter001 Member Posts: 851
    Another option to consider would be the Sumitomo HTR+ tires:


    Classification: Ultra-high-performance All-season

    Temperature/Traction: AAA

    Treadwear rating: 360

    Speed rating: W (168mph) (W = Z+)

    Weight: 21 lbs (215/45WR17)

    Where made: Japan

    Cost: $94 (215/45WR17 size)


    Check this out:


    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/sumitomo/su_htrplus.jsp


    Later...AH

  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    That's an all-season though. Bleh.

    Although I have driven the HTR Z and HTR ZII, both pretty decent for a low-cost tire.

    -Colin
  • stupendousmanstupendousman Member Posts: 36
    Hi all, Had a Jeep Wrangler and was paying $760.00 per year in the Bay Area. I bought my WRX Wagon and my rate went up to $1300.00 (!!!) Just wondering if anyone else has been shopping around insurance and wondering if there is anyone who doesn't slap quite as large of a premium on the WRX.
  • darthpaul22darthpaul22 Member Posts: 4
    Hi, I got a 5-speed WRX sport wagon yesterday and I'm loving it. Mine came with a turbo gauge but I have no idea how to read it. Can anyone tell me what those numbers mean? Also, at about what RPM/speed do you tend to shift from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, and so on? Please forgive my nubile questions and I appreciate all of your help. Thanks.

    - Paul
  • crazy1crazy1 Member Posts: 10
    I was told that one reason for higher rates is the costly repair of 4 wheel drive . If you get rear ended or slide into a curb, the damage at the rear is connected to the front and the engine.
    I'ts kind of like getting kicked in the nuts.
    It only happens in the groin but it hurts all over. Haaaaa. Haaaaa.
  • crazy1crazy1 Member Posts: 10
    You should not be looking at your RPM gage when driving. You might miss something important.
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    and congrats on your new WRX sport wagon! Hopefully someone will be along soon that can address your questions. Have you tried looking in your owner's manual for any of that information?

    Btw, hope you'll take a moment to stop by our Subaru Crew - Meet the Members discussion and say hello. Happy motoring! ;-)

    Revka
    Host
    Hatchbacks & Station Wagons Boards
  • rblelandrbleland Member Posts: 312
    ....Ebay #1812215610 - could be part of the reason for high rates of insurance?? Just asking!!
  • stevesr0stevesr0 Member Posts: 24
    To clarify my previous post, I am concerned that the gauge is not working correctly. The needle moves erratically and independently of acceleration or absolute RPM (between 0 and 4K, since I am in the breakin period),

    If this is abnormal, what is likely wrong that I can fix (I don't want to take the audio unit out unless it is a smaller job than it appears in the installation instructions)?

    Thanks in advance.

    Steve
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    For more expedient feedback, you should also post (copy/paste) your question in our Subaru Crew - General Maintenance & Repair discussion. Good luck, and please keep us posted. Thanks!

    Revka
    Host
    Hatchbacks & Station Wagons Boards
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Steve,

    the turbo boost gauge is reading manifold pressure. I'll try to answer your question properly and keep this somewhat concise.

    all engines produce varying degrees of intake manifold pressure-- at idle, the vacuum (negative pressure) is very high while at wide-open throttle (WOT) it is considerably lower and should peak at roughly atmospheric pressure. that means the air inside the intake manifold is the same pressure as the air outside.

    once a gear is engaged and the vehicle is moving, the manifold pressure does not instantly change with respect to throttle position. it changes with respect to throttle position and other factors, but mostly load on the engine. load is higher when accelerating hard or climbing hills, low when cruising.

    things change a little bit when a turbocharger is thrown into the mix. we could go into great detail about it, but let's keep it simple: the turbocharger is an air (exhaust gasses) driven air pump that can produce positive pressure in the intake tract under load.

    when cruising under light load and low throttle input, the turbocharged engine is making manifold vacuum just like a naturally aspirated (non-turbo or supercharged) one. your boost gauge will read negative.

    when you open the throttle, the turbocharger begins making boost (positive pressure) and you will see the boost gauge quickly sweep from negative to zero and then fairly quickly read positive. if you relax your foot, the boost quickly tails off.

    more information about engines in general and turbocharged engines can be found at www.howstuffworks.com -- but this is all just from me. ;-)

    -Colin
This discussion has been closed.